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「二つの感謝と感激」

葵友会新潟支部
支部長　小笠原　征夫

主催者支部長の力不足にも拘らず、ご来賓・父母の会・会員各位の大勢の皆様の暖かいお力添えをいただき、盛大に６０周年の節目を祝うことができ、心から「感謝と感激」で一杯でございます。
本当にありがとうございました。

そしてもう一つの「感謝と感激」を、このホームページを訪れた皆様にも共有していただきたくご紹介申し上げます。
そのお手紙（差出人「木村純氏」Ｓ46卒）の内容は、別紙の通りご丁重でしかも、読む私ども支部会員に対し、「感謝と感激」そして「勇気と感動」を与えてくださるメッセージですので、是非、会員各位はじめ、ひろく拝読してくださるようお願いいたします。

と同時にお手紙に添えて、大変過分なご祝儀をいただきましたことも、合わせてご報告申し上げます。
私はこの「二つの感謝と感激」を通して、葵友会とは先輩・後輩を問わず時代を越えて、そして地域を越えて、力強い友情と信頼の絆に結ばれていることを、皆様と木村氏から教えていただきました。改めて「葵友会に生まれてきて良かった！」そんな祝賀会の一日でありました。

クリックで拡大します。

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author : kiyukai-niigata | comments (442) | trackbacks (0)

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asics gt 1140 | 2014/01/12 12:19 PM: New York City Police Department officer warns people they will be arrested for blocking a sidewalk during the Occupy Wall Street protest September 17, 2012 on the one year anniversary of the movement in New York. Police in New York on Monday arrested at least a dozen demonstrators marking the one-year anniversary of the Occupy Wall Street movement, witnesses said.AFP PHOTO/Stan HONDA?Harry Styles has a new drinking buddy - new Radio 1 Breakfast Show host Nick Grimshaw.The hell raising pair are new neighbours after One Direction heartthrob Harry moved into London's Primrose Hill.And one of the locals, flamboyant celeb Grimshaw, was quick to introduce himself to the pop star and show him some of the celebrity haunts.A source told The Sun, "Grimmy promised Harry he’d give him his very own guided tour of Primrose Hill. He showed him where his famous friends live and all their favourite boozers. They ended up in The Lansdowne until kicking-out time. "They even stopped for a bite to eat with pals. They had a great night.”The area is a fave with celebrities including Kate Moss and new Spider-Man star Rhys Ifans.In other Styles news, Harry is reportedly getting back together with his television presenting cougar ex Caroline Flack.A source told Heat magazine: "When they do meet up, it's likely to be privately at a mutual friend's place. Harry's attitude is, 'Who cares what people think? It's between us, but She doesn't want to be made a fool of again."ALSO SEE:?This week saw the that luxury department store Harrods has teamed up with the world's most digitally progressive fashion brand Burberry to not only live stream their Autumn/Winter 2012 show on the store's , but data mine the opportunity by democratising the buying process - i.e. giving consumers the opportunity to "be" a Harrods buyer for this exclusive opportunity. Fans of the luxury retailer are being invited to "Like" their favourite look from the Burberry AW12 show and Harrods will by default include those pieces in the AW buy, which will subsequently be sold in store. We have already seen the democratisation of the editor via the rise of social media (i.e. everyone has a public voice that can matter whether it is via Twitter, a blog, a fan page etc.), and in early 2011 the created the world's first crowd-sourced designing experiment with the launch of the Bill Amberg collaboration Calgary tote bag. However, this is the first time that a UK department store has data mined/crowd-sourced publicly in advance of a collection launch/buy (Burberry ran this initiative with Bergdorf Goodman last September in the US). It is an highly pioneering move and will, once again, set Harrods ahead of its peers, positioning the store as a true digital innovator and retail brand leader. This move is simply another in the department store's ongoing digital brand growth strategy. Harrods is already ahead of its competitors "socially" from a raw numbers perspective, over the last two years, it has amassed in excess of 165,000 Facebook fans, and over 85,000 Twitter followers - more than any of its competitors, even with regional stores combined. This digital community growth is a result of sheer investment and strategic interaction from the brand. For example, the Twitter feed is live 24/7, managed by an industry leading professional (not an intern), the tone of voice is completely in line with the overarching ethos and personality of the brand and every question and enquiry is dealt with and responded to within minutes, even on a weekend. Managing the digital community for a retailer of this size isn't the easiest feat. To do it well, it does require the laborious task of 24/7 community maintenance and interaction, dealing with antagonistic consumer complaints about purchases, customer service and so on, and passing them on to the relevant in-house teams and maintaining a professional public representation of the brand overall. Spurning positive endorsement proactively within the digital sphere also come hand-in-hand with the task. Harrods has not only pioneered intelligent digital activity - creating a slick GPS-based smartphone App to help consumers navigate around the store, launching - an online magazine on Harrods.com edited by former Financial Times fashion editor Nicola Copping (another example of how seriously digital editorial is being taken) and live streaming shows but has also proactively fostered digital relationships with key stakeholder on and offline. This includes a relationship with another pioneering digital fashion brand, Dolce & Gabbana. Since "giant falling out" in 2010 between Dolce and one of Harrods' biggest competitors which resulted in said luxury department store no longer stocking the brand, Harrods has maximised its digital relationship with Dolce via its digital hub, and relationships with the brand's strong digital team, which has resulted in Harrods being treated as a key media platform with access behind the scenes to Dolce shows in Milan, exclusive Twitter interviews with the brand's models including David Gandy and even meet and greets with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The symbiotic relationship between the editorial platforms of two non-traditional media outlets has set an bar for how digital engagement between brand and retailer can be leveraged for mutually beneficial goals. Next week's Burberry show live stream partnership will simply be another string to the digital bow that Harrods has every right to wear with pride, and by the sounds of things, there is a lot more in the pipeline for the brand's digital growth in 2012. Follow Nik Thakkar on Twitter:?eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV?The One Direction lads are continuing their quest for worldwide domination - they are set to take to the stage and perform for an international...? has linked to yet another beautiful girl - the star was seen driving in a car with Burberry model Cara Delevingne.The pair left the Omega House in Soho earlier this week, and looked to be enjoying each other's company as they drove away together. Bur-eautiful: Cara DelevingneA source told The Mirror: Heartthrob Harry StylesAn insider added to The Sun: The twosome was spotted together earlier this year after they left exclusive Mayfair nightclub Le Baron together and are said to be close friends.Delevingne's agent, Sarah Doukas, said of the 19-year-old: "She has the most beautiful face and engaging -personality, like her older sister Poppy. She is adorable and very talented. She also has the ability to shake up the energy in a room full of stuffy people and make people ask 'who is that girl?'."There could be some sibling rivalry, as Cara's older sister Poppy admitted to Grazia she had a crush on the pop star. She said: "I want to sit on Harry Styles' lap. I have a total crush on him. He walked past me at the Aquascutum show recently and I was salivating. I like his curly hair and he looks like a little cherub." ?OpenDyslexic, a free-to-use font created by Abelardo Gonzalez, aims to help people with dyslexia read online content easier. The open-sourced font features heavily-weighted bottoms to help give letters "gravity," thus curbing the brain's ability to rotate characters and make them look like other letters, explains the . The BBC reports that a recent update to Instapaper, an app that allows users save Web pages to read later,. It has also appeared in word processors, e-readers and been installed on school computers.Gonzalez, who released his designs in 2011, said he started to project in order to give people with developmental reading disorder a free alternative. There are other, similar fonts being sold that are geared towards people with dyslexia. In 2010 "Dyslexie," a font developed by , was (though not speed) in people with dyslexia in a master's thesis , according to the Boston Globe.OpenDyslexic works on the same principle as Dyslexie, except that it is free and open-source. Personal use copies of the latter reportedly cost around $90, while copies for school use may cost significantly more. Approximately , according to the Dyslexia Research Institute. Check out the new font (below).LOOK: Also on HuffPost:?We've teamed up with Greta Larkins, the genius behind the brilliant Tumblr in a weekly series of animated fashion shots.This week, FashGif takes on this beaded jacket from 's spring 2013 show from . Can we expect to see wearing this on the campaign trail? We doubt it, but it sure would make things even more exciting.Want more? Be sure to check out Stylelist on , and . For previous Fashion Gifs, take a peek in our gallery below: ?'The Dictator' has caused chaos on the Oscars red carpet, followingIt all seemed to be going so well. General Admiral Aladeen aka Sacha Baron Cohen was happily giving red carpet host Ryan Seacrest details about his red carpet outfit: "Hello Death to the West, I'm wearing John Galliano, with socks by K-Mart. As my friend Saddam Hussein once said to me, socks are socks. Don't waste money."But there was an ominous urn in his hands, with the face of North Korean late dictator Kim Jong-il on the front. And so the Dictator carried on:"It gave me an opportunity to bring my dear friend and double standards partner Kim Jong-il - it was his dream to come to the Oscars and be spread over the red carpet and Halle Berry's chest again..."And then it all went haywire, as the Dictator appeared to trip, and the contents of the urn - about a hundred ashtrays' worth of powder, later reported to be likely to be pancake mix - went all over the thousand-dollar Burberry suit of a mortified Seacrest, who struggled to keep his composure. 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And that precious toddler grew up to be my stylish Sarah who now works for Stylelist and lives and breathes fashion.?Fragrance is an important accessory which serves to amplify and sometimes influence your mood and therefore it needs as much thought as the colour of the bride's dress or the groom's buttonhole. ?Peter Boucher is commercial marketing director at Vodafone UK, where he works closely with businesses of all sizes and from all sectors to help them to find new and better ways of working. He originally joined Vodafone in 2002, and has since served in global brand marketing, as head of marketing for Vodafone live! and as marketing director and chief commercial officer at Vodafone Hungary. Prior to this, he worked in the food production and pharmaceuticals sectors, for companies including Unilever, Kraft Foods and GSK.?eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV?WWD:"I fear I've caused complete and utter confusion," Prince Charles told Burberry's 800-plus staffers who gathered to greet him when he inaugurated the company's new Horseferry House headquarters Thursday morning. ?When you're a hot 27-year-old prince, wooing the ladies doesn't stop at dinner and a movie. How about a movie premiere, a VIP after party and an even more chi-chi after party later? That was apparently 's M.O. this week in London, where he in a shiny blue suit (that we've ). Who was the lucky lady? Reportedly it's Cressida Bonas, a model who was also in attendance at the premiere -- as Harry's date.The pair avoided being photographed together (sneaky!), but later they at the Freemasons Hall in Covent Garden and then moved on to Le Salon nightclub in Mayfair. The Sun -- and Harry left just two minutes after her.Bonas, 23, and seems to be something of a British socialite; she's the daughter of another model: Lady Mary-Gaye Georgiana Lorna Curzon. Another fun fact: she studied at Leeds University, where Harry's ex Chelsy Davy also studied.We know Harry likes his blondes -- , and of course, -- so we won't be surprised if the Prince and the Model become the next .Check out pics of Harry and Cressida below!While we're at it, here are Prince Harry's cutest moments: Want more? Be sure to check out HuffPost Style on , , and .?eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV?As the UK economic outlook remains gloomy, retailers are venturing further afield to develop international markets. But what is the impact of going global on the UK high street? Miya Knights finds out. Where domestic retail sales are stagnating, it is easy to see why UK retailers are looking to foreign shores to boost growth. But what does this trend mean for the future of our local high streets? Technology is playing a central role in driving development forward on both fronts.Luxury firms are perhaps the UK's most successful retail export, capitalising on the value of their brands to supplement slow domestic sales with growth abroad. In itself, this is nothing new. The cross-fertilisation of retail brands across regional markets has also brought us many now-familiar UK high street names, such as Gap from the United States, H&M from Sweden and Zara from Spain.The difference today is that, while analysts predict virtually flat UK retail sales growth in spite of the usual Christmas boost, many more UK retailers are seeing markedly increased demand in overseas markets which they cannot afford to ignore. Burberry's latest sales figures, for example, grew by 21 per cent in the last quarter of 2011, largely driven by a ￡210-million (36 per cent) sales boost in the Asia-Pacific region. In contrast, its sales in Europe were up by 20 per cent to ￡160 million.Daniel Lucht, research director for retail analyst ResearchFarm, said the lure of internationalisation was due to the impact of "a very austere economic outlook for 2012". This, in turn, has had the effect of generating a huge move away from debt-financed business growth. "Cash flow is going to be a big issue," says Mr Lucht. "For both retailers and consumers, it will be about not what they want, but what they can afford." He adds that the presence of essential infrastructure components, like communication networks and roads, is often a prerequisite for successful expansion, making countries like India challenging for overseas entrants, despite its rapidly expanding middle class."Most UK fashion and clothing retailers have piled into the Middle East," says Richard Fitzpatrick, director of Retailmap, a specialist retail analysis and competitor monitoring company. "But that is because of a number of large entrepreneurial firms who build and own their own retail properties." The presence of two or three very strong joint venture or franchise trading partners, such as Alshaya, Al Futtaim and Al Tayer, who provide the UK retailers with a complete turn-key solution - logistics, warehousing and access to the biggest shopping malls - have helped add the region to the UK's list of international destinations, alongside Asia.Mr Fitzpatrick adds that high-end luxury brands have done well in the Middle East, Asia and also Russia because a growing proportion of their middle classes and super-rich are conspicuous in their consumption. But he says: "The value and budget segment is also probably one of the best UK exports, with the likes of Primark already starting to take Europe by storm. This is where we also see Tesco, George @ Asda, Sainsbury's TUI, Matalan and even New Look expanding."Across 50 UK clothing and footwear retailers, surveyed by Retailmap in 2011, each traded in an average of 11 separate countries and had an average of six outlets per country. Some retailers had a much wider global exposure. Topshop, for example, is in 29 countries, yet even this UK high street fashion stalwart only averages five outlets per country. By comparison, Tesco operates in nine countries but it has an average of 250 stores per country in each of the grocery and own-brand clothing brand markets it operates in. "It is little surprise that in central Europe, Tesco's F+F clothing brand is one of the market-share leaders," says Mr Fitzpatrick."A UK high street chain with 200 or 300 stores is looking for greater economies of scale and efficiencies than any small joint venture or franchise investment can deliver," he says. "H&M, for example, does 25% of its business in Germany alone." To put Topshop's global presence into perspective against the weak domestic market, its owner Sir Philip Green revealed recently that it was looking to close 250 to 260 stores from its 2,500-strong UK estate over the next three years. This will pave the way for ambitions to expand the Topshop brand further overseas.The consequences of such strategies do not bode well for the UK high street. The government's recent retail review by TV retail guru, Mary Portas, found less than half the UK's retail spending is now on the high street and that this figure is falling.But the lure of overseas profits need not necessarily sound its death knell. Technology can help span the miles between head office and the flagship store on the other side of the world, or automate finance reporting and administration with country-specific software rules. But it is the explosion in internet shopping, and its relatively lower operating costs and higher margins that have really been fuelling not only international UK retail ambitions, but also domestic ones too.But, in some cases, UK retailers like Next are switching their international expansion plans away from opening lots of new overseas stores to setting up foreign language and international currency online shops. Perhaps, if eCommerce was as mature a decade ago, the cautionary tale of Marks & Spencer's experience would not have seen it unceremoniously pull out of its first foray into France, where it had operated 18 stores. Undeterred, it re-launched there last October, but with its first international transactional website, which the retailer said was part of its bricks-and-clicks global approach, preceding the opening of a flagship Paris store a few weeks later. Success is, in fact, by no means assured abroad or even at home, in stores or online. Just think of the ill-fated Carphone Warehouse and Best Buy joint venture. The US electronics retailer last year ceased trading through 11 Best Buy UK stores, at the cost of some 1,100 jobs. Significantly, services spanning multiple channels, such as click and collect or reserve in-store and deliver to home, are becoming more popular in the UK where internet trade body, Interactive Media Retail Group (IMRG) recorded a significant rise in the percentage of click-and-collect online sales in the third retail quarter of 2011. Accounting for 10.4 per cent of all UK eCommerce sales in the period, this merging of retail sales channels becomes all the more important in prospective foreign markets that also have a higher proportion of digital natives with multichannel expectations.Adam Stewart, marketing director of Rakuten's Play.com, predicts: "In the year ahead, cutting-edge mobile devices, worldwide mobile and broadband penetration, and innovative social shopping services will open up global markets, providing huge growth opportunities for merchants large and small, and unparalleled consumer choice." Play.com, one of the UK's largest internet retailers, was recently acquired by Rakuten - the "Amazon of Japan" - for ￡25 million.The question is though, will UK retailers be able to keep up? Take Japan, the world's most digitally advanced nation, for example. According to IDTechEx research, 47 million Japanese adopted smartphones with tap-and-go payments functionality in three years, making its adoption of mobile payments technology one of the fastest roll outs of electronic products in history. Super-fast broadband speeds and 4G enable in-store ordering direct from a customer's smartphone, along with localised, targeted promotional offers and the widespread use of Quick Response (QR) codes.The influence of the tech-savvy multichannel consumer and UK retail experience in more advanced multichannel markets is already making its presence felt on our local high streets. Women's fashion company Oasis is equipping staff with iPads to boost service levels and assisted sales, as well as reduce lost sales from out-of-stocks, for example. Ish Patel, strategic development director at Oasis' parent Aurora Fashions Group, points out that fast smartphone adoption is paving the way for mobile or mCommerce to help blend traditional physical and emerging online channels.In this way, lessons learnt from going global may also help UK retailers better mind what is at home, despite the fact they may be strategically focused on distant shores.This article orginally appeared in a special report on The Future of Retail, produced by Raconteur Media and published with The Times (UK). Please see www.raconteuronthetimes.co.uk for further articles from this report.Follow Raconteur Media on Twitter:?LONDON - They say weather is a national obsession in Britain ? but perhaps more for Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey than for most.With a clap of thunder and a torrent of realistic rain running down the sides of a glass tent, the luxury brand's creative chief sent his umbrella-toting models down the catwalk in a finale that brought a smile to everyone's face.Burberry, which stages its twice yearly runway shows in its own temporary Hyde Park tent, is the biggest and glitziest production during London Fashion Week. On Monday, the autumn and winter 2012 display drew a huge crowd of buyers and spectators, including a host of international stars such as Hollywood actress Kate Bosworth, celebrity photographer Mario Testino, and even Korean pop group Girls' Generation."I quite like celebrating rain," said Bailey, who has been credited with revitalizing the once-fusty fashion house and boosting its international style credentials. He's also known to create a spectacle using weather elements: Last year, he filled his catwalk with fake snow."I like the romance. I quite like the melancholy," he said of the rain.It wasn't just the rain that was British ? much of the detailing on the clothes was, too. There was velvet quilting, corduroy, herringbone wool and tweed caps, riding jackets and skirts, and of course various incarnations of the brand's most famous garment, the trench coat.Bailey said the collection was a study in merging city style and country living. Bridle leather straps, shearling parkas and the use of quilting were evocative of the horse-riding country lifestyle of the English upper class, while the appearance of cute owl drawings and appliques on some of the collection's T-shirts and sweaters, as well as gold metal fox belt buckles, were a fun and quirky take on the "country" theme."I like the idea of celebrating the country, celebrating the town," Bailey said after the show.A huge range of coats and jackets made up much of the collection. Some were cinched in with candy-coloured belts with bows, while others had masculine tailored shoulders and large pouches. Cropped, down-filled puffer jackets were paired with tweed ruffled pencil skirts, giving the ladylike look a sporty twist.The most striking coat was the one Bailey chose for his finale ? a quilted, belted creation in deep royal purple, cinched in at the waist but flaring out in a full skirt.Colours were rich and autumnal, with mustard, burgundy, black currant and forest greens, while wide horizontal stripes in grey, navy and honey kept the look young and vibrant."I like it because it's British and I'm British," joked Leah Weller, a 20-year-old singer and model, who added that she was particularly fond of the gold-studded black gloves and clutch bags on show.???Associated Press writer Raphael Satter contributed to this report. ?He may be the world's one and only male supermodel, but David Gandy is also the most humble, sweetest most down to earth guy you could ever hope to meet. Despite being in an ego driven industry, this boy has his feet firmly on the ground.I met him last year at the annual Scottish Fashion Awards and we hit it off. He was in town again for the 2012 Awards and very kindly invited me to afternoon tea. It wasn't all smooth sailing I nearly had to cancel because of my school run, but thanks to my dear, sweet friend Morna Rose we made it happen. And thanks to my wonderful hairdresser and make up artist Zak Coldicutt who moved appointments around to accommodate me.Despite the fact that I was twenty minutes late and that the tea had gone cold, David was still as hot as ever, and shrugged off my tardiness in a gentlemanly manner. I blame the fabulous Celebrity Stylist Derek Warburton who had whisked me off to the Diamond Studio to style me for the Fashion Awards. En route back to the Blythswood Hotel we ran into Fashion Editor Janis Sue Smith and the lovely Patricia Fraser. When Derek's around there's no such thing as stopping to say a quick hello, five minutes quickly turned into fifteen.But like I said to David the best things in life are worth waiting for.We chatted all things Scottish Fashion Awards and about his fabulous new fitness app. This is his second year in town to support the Awards."I am a huge believer in supporting British fashion. Scotland has a huge amount of fashion talent. You just don't realise it until you are working in this industry and you end up meeting so many Scots. So it's fabulous that Tessa has set up this Awards ceremony in order to give them recognition and also to celebrate their great talent.""We have got such great heritage, such great fashion, Westwood, Savile Row, Burberry, Pringle it's such a shame everyone is so keen to hotfoot it to Milan, Paris etc when we have so much going on here. I don't think of it as Scotland and England I think of it as Britain as a whole. If we didn't think of it as separate we could be a fashion giant. People just don't realise how much money fashion brings in. If we concentrated our efforts we could truly be a great Britain.""I try to promote Britain as much as possible; I try to wear British made clothes. For the Awards I will be wearing a Marks and Spencer's jacket that cost ￡99, it's a great cut, and lovely fabric. I wear a lot of Reiss and Topshop as well. It should be about the high street and not high end.""I love coming to Glasgow, there's a much more relaxed atmosphere here, compared to London where there's a great deal of snobbery. People always ask me where I get my dark looks, I once said I have some Scottish heritage and it's totally stuck."David is constantly asked where he gets his clothes and how he maintains such a fabulous physique. And trust me, this example of human perfection does not require photoshop. But thank god he's not like every other model you meet that say they can eat anything and still look great. David is very honest and admits he works hard to maintain this special level of perfection."I have to work at my body; I have to work a lot. Over the years I have worked with some of the best personal trainers in the business, and I have discovered there is no magic pill, no cheat's way. It's not about dieting; it's about changing your lifestyle. I am not suggesting cutting out all fats. I am suggesting that you look into nutritional guides etc, you have to research and change your lifestyle, learn what your body type can and cannot handle.""I know what works, I am the evidence of what works. And I have put together all my knowledge into this new app. It's all the knowledge I have gained over the years through trial and error of what works for my body. It's very user friendly, it's not complicated, there are no silly diagrams. We have videoed all the moves, you can also Facebook it. I've also added a nutritional guide, because it's very important to cover that as well."Three unknown facts about David: He's very articulate, not just a pretty face He's an absolute gent His favourite tipple is English Breakfast teawww.davidgandyfitness.com davidjamesgandy.blogspot.com?Exposure to back-lit electronic devices, such as tablets, before bedtime could lead to sleeplessness, suggests a new study.A two-hour exposure to self-luminous displays may cause melatonin suppression strong enough to affect sleep by disturbing the body's natural circadian rhythm, a small new study in the suggests.“Our study shows that a two-hour exposure to light from self-luminous electronic displays can suppress melatonin by about 22%. Stimulating the human circadian system to this level may affect sleep in those using the devices prior to bedtime,” said study author Mariana Figueiro, in a statement.Melatonin is a hormone produced by the body when it’s dark to encourage sleepiness. Suppression of melatonin by light has been implicated in sleep disturbances, increased risk for diabetes and obesity, as well as increased risk for more serious diseases, such as breast cancer.Participants in the study used self-luminous tablets to read, play games, and watch movies. While one-hour exposure to tablets caused little affect, after two hours, melatonin levels dropped significantly. Figueiro said in a statement: “We recommended dimming these devices at night as much as possible in order to minimize melatonin suppression, and limiting the amount of time spent using these devices prior to bedtime.”?WASHINGTON -- A slew of new polls shows Newt Gingrich leading the race for the Republican nomination, both nationally in three of the first four primary and caucus states. However, a close reading of both the recent polls and a recent focus group of Republicans shows that rank-and-file Republicans are far from a final decision. Gingrich has certainly experienced a surge in support. Two new national surveys from and Fox News now show Gingrich with support in the mid-30-percent range and a wide lead over Mitt Romney and the rest of the Republican primary field. The current estimate produced by the , which is based on all available public polls, gives Gingrich a lead of 37 to 20 percent over Romney, with the rest of the Republican field in single digits. The rise in support for Gingrich has also been evident in the early primary and caucus states. Gingrich now leads on a half dozen new polls in , and three recent surveys in . The former speaker is leading by even wider margins on recent polls in Florida conducted by , and . Romney continues to lead in , but the most recent shows his support falling from 40 percent in late October to 35 percent last week. Meanwhile, support for Gingrich in New Hampshire has jumped to the mid-20-percent range on four recent surveys. Although a plurality of Republicans now prefers Gingrich nationwide, it is also evident that most Republicans remain uncertain about how they will vote in their primaries or caucuses next year. The CNN/ORC poll conducted in late November, for example, found just over a quarter of Republicans (27 percent) said they would definitely support their first choice, with the rest either willing to change their minds (67 percent) or still completely undecided (6 percent). Decision-making is farther along in the early primary and caucus states, but not by much. The Time/CNN surveys found just over a third of Republicans (between 34 and 39 percent) willing to say they are certain to support their first choices in Iowa, South Carolina and Florida, and only slightly more (44 percent ) in New Hampshire.A of Republican primary voters, conducted last week by veteran Democratic pollster Peter Hart as part of a sponsored by the Annenberg Public Policy Center of the University of Pennsylvania, helps put these results in context. While a focus group is not a survey -- its non-random recruitment and small sample size cannot provide a statistically representative view of any larger population -- the 12 voters from suburban Fairfax County, Va., who participated provide a richer view that helps flesh out the survey findings. The Republicans in Hart's focus group found much to like about Gingrich. Virtually all rated him as highly competent, someone who they described variously as "experienced," a "great debater," the "smartest one running," someone who "stands firm in his beliefs," "get things done" and can "completely turn the ship around." They were less enthusiastic about Romney, but still had praise. They lauded his "family values," said he "did a nice job at the Olympics" and as governor of Massachusetts, and called him a "politician" who is "good at it." But the participants could also list many thing that troubled them about both Romney and Gingrich. Regarding Gingrich, some expressed concern about his personality, that he's "careless and combustible" or that "he's behaving himself in this campaign right now and saying what he's supposed to." Some participants worried that "his hands are already too dirty...with his experience and how he got there" or that "he has been in side the Beltway for a long time." Still others feared he might "give up some of his beliefs to get things done," that "something will come up in his marriage," or that "issues with his affairs will blow up like Clinton."Misgivings about Romney began with the perception that he "goes with whatever people want to hear," and is "wishy-washy," "vanilla" or "manufactured." They complained that "he doesn't have the conviction, too phony," that he will "flip-flop," is a "R.I.N.O. -- Republican in name only" and that "repealing Obamacare will not be a priority."In short, while these voters were more enthusiastic about Gingrich, it was also clear that they remain in the process of making a decision and are far from decided. When Hart asked whose vote was still "up for grabs," half raised their hands. At the same time, many indicated they had already narrowed their choices to some degree. Most, for example, said they had already ruled out supporting Herman Cain -- who dropped out of the race two days later -- and others had ruled out Paul or Perry, or even Gingrich or Romney. The narrowing of choices among Republicans is also evident in a completed a week ago. They found that majorities of Republicans consider only Gingrich (62 percent) and Romney (54 percent) to be "acceptable" nominees for president. Even though Rick Perry, Ron Paul and Michele Bachmann well enough to rate them, between 52 and 58 percent of respondents now regard these candidates as "unacceptable" presidential nominees. So for many Republicans, the race is narrowing to a choice between Gingrich and Romney, but it's a choice that often remains tenuous. According to Gallup Editor in Chief Frank Newport, 35 percent of Republicans on the same survey consider both Gingrich and Romney to be acceptable nominees, while 81 percent consider either candidate acceptable.Last week, Peter Hart reflected on the fact that, while only two focus group participants walked in as Gingrich supporters, 7 were ready to vote for him on the way out. "Here we are a month away," Hart said. "Boy there's gonna be a lot of volatility." The survey data says he could be right. Subscribe to the ! ?In Your Fifties : Hair and Skin Care Out of curiosity, I added up the price of the recommended skin care and hair products. The total was $211.00. As a woman in her early fifties, I would like to recommend the following products. No way would I pay $100.00 for a skin correcter, even if it is Lancome. Clinique has a skin corrrecter for less than half the price of the Lancome product. I've used it with good results, before my moisturizer. LiftActiv Derm Source by Vichy is $45.00. A company called Yves Rocher makes a similiar product for less money, I believe. Yves Rocher can be ordered through the mail and on line at their website. I don't wear eye shadow anymore, however, when I did there's no way I would ever pay $48.00 for eyeshadow. Lastly L'Oreal Color Shampoo for $18.00. Patene makes a Color Protecting Shampoo for about $8.00 plus tax and the whole Patene Color Line is very good and a lot less expensive. I'm not saying that Lancome, Vichy, Estee Lauder and L'Oreal are not good products. I'm sure they have good products, but not every woman can afford their products and stay within her budget for skin care, make up and hair care. I'm retired now, so I have the luxury of doing comparison shopping of various skin care, make up and hair care. I hope this post has been helpful in some way.?Almost every retailer now has the expertise to use Facebook to grow consumer awareness of their brand, however, there are only a handful of retailers that have truly monetised Facebook and extended its reach from a sharing space to a retail platform. A number of retail commentators have argued that whilst connecting with the consumer through social media is key, the monetisation of Facebook as a standalone platform has not happened, and will possibly never be a success. This argument originated in the US after online retailers posted poor sales forecasts after Christmas from F-commerce sales. The argument focuses on the fact that Facebook is where people come to connect with their friends - and sometimes brands - but they do not go on to buy from Facebook pages and never will. I disagree with this sentiment entirely. I do agree that F-commerce is in its early stages, however it should not be dismissed; I would go as far to say that ignoring it could have a detrimental effect on a company's bottom line in the near future. To understand my argument, you only have to look at how technology has transformed the way people shop over the last 15 years, and subsequently how the evolution of technology will continue to change consumer habits. If you combine this with the need for Facebook to continue to diversify its revenue streams, I believe Facebook itself will push for F-commerce to be a success, as it's a natural progression/transition.I also have reason to believe that Facebook will become an influential sales platform. As CEO of BrandAlley, an online retailer that specialises in designer 'flash sales', I have seen first-hand how F-commerce works; it has both driven sales and further engaged our Facebook followers. Since launching our F-commerce platform late last year, it already generates five per cent of sales and this is set to rise over the coming year.It was 10 years ago that people questioned whether online shopping would become a viable platform for retailers, but with online sales generating ￡68.2bn last year and counting for 17% of retail sales in the UK, it is clear that the consumer will continue to look online to make purchases. However, I believe that with the increase in people using social media platforms and accessing the internet on their mobile phone or tablet device, customers will begin to move away from the traditional homepage and seek sales in other locations. Other retailers are with me on this argument. For example, Burberry has committed 60 per cent of its marketing budget on online and social media channels and companies as diverse as Procter & Gamble, Levi's and Delta AirLines have committed to selling their product or services on Facebook. The evolution of how the consumer shops will undoubtedly have a positive effect on F-commerce but how Facebook pushes the concept itself will also heighten the success of the platform. With Facebook's recent floatation, there is now a push from its shareholders to grow and further monetise Facebook and I believe F-commerce will form part of its growth plans. It is likely that Facebook will encourage brands to have fully functioning online stores. At first this will be free but eventually they will ask for a small percentage of the sales once they have consumer buy-in. So, how do you convert a growing fan base to buying your product? I think the answer is relatively straighforward in that you simply need to give them a reason to make that first jump into spending on the site. Exclusive previews or sales plus competitions are the easiest ways to quickly engage the consumer. Admittedly BrandAlley's flash sale format has helped us convert our customers into buying through Facebook. For example, we held an exclusive preview sale recently with 7FAM (Seven for all mankind) onFacebook which accounted for 50% of revenue for that particular sale. A few years ago it was only a select few retailers who saw the importance of engaging with their customers via social media platforms. Now social media is very much part of the marketing mix but retailers need to start being commercially aware and monetising Facebook. I do not believe that F-commerce will overtake any other e-commerce platform right now, but when you have a captive audience of people who you know are interested in your brand, then the next logical step is to directly sell to them. Web users spend one in every eight minutes on Facebook which only goes to show the future and need for retailers to capitalise on this.Facebook users may be in 'share mode' with their friends at the moment but I believe it is only a short time before they are in 'spend mode', buying their favourite brands through F-commerce.?For nearly 50 years, sat as an arbiter of fashion by publishing a yearly list of the 10 Best and Worst Dressed People in the Demi-monde. Although best known for his "Worst Dressed"list, he maintained a successful career as a fashion journalist. Richard Blackwell was a powerful syndicated columnist who wrote features in newspapers and lifestyle magazines. Matrons and starlets, stockbrokers and models, politicians and prize-fighters all jockeyed to be included. Blackwell's critiques could be cutting. Being included in Mr. Blackwell's Best Dressed list could quickly improve one's social standing in New York, Miami or Hollywood while being included in his worst dressed list could doom one to social Siberia. Although Mr. Blackwell has gone on to his maker, we here at the STONEzone revived this hallowed tradition four years ago. We have vigilantly watched the world of entertainment, sports, politics, academia, art and fashion to determine who has style....and who truly doesn't. Therefore, we proudly present our FIFTH ANNUAL 10 BEST AND WORST DRESSED PEOPLE IN AMERICA list for your consideration. Compiling such a list is a far greater challenge than one might think. The advent of "casual fridays" is symptomatic of an overall decline in our standards regtarding what is right and wrong about the way Americans dress. Sadly, fashion today is more motivated by economics than aesthetics. Men are seen in both business and social settings in running shoes, tracksuits, sweats, T-shirts, and caps, which advertise either a sports teams or a brand of farm tractor. Women are seen outside the gym in spandex workout ensembles and hoodies. Women actually leave their homes with a Victoria Secret slogans on their ass. Americans cared deeply about proper dressing in the 1930s, 40s and even the 50s. The 60's, a decade fashion forgot, also began a trend of informality that devolved over time from slovenliness in the 90's to dishevelment in the 2000's. The sheer number of men who will go out in public in a wife-beater is staggering. Very few can look like a young Marlon Brando but men still crowd casinos, bars, malls and sports events in this "outfit." Our goal is to sort out those who are merely fashionable from those who possess real style, for fashion is fleeting and style endures. We also try to eschew "costume." That's why you won't find Lady Gaga or Tom Wolfe on our list. While both are distinctive in their dress, both are affecting a costume more appropriate for the stage. While fashion is about fads and what is "in" now, style is a personal factor that cannot be learned or taught - either you have it or you don't. Style is, in fact, the direct opposite of fashion. Fashion is a look that is temporarily "in". Fashion is people imitating each other. It's about fitting in and looking like everyone else's Style. Fashion, on the other hand, is about individuality; what sets one apart from the crowd. Real style comes from within; it is the sign of your character and personality that you display to those who see you. Style never indulges fads or gimmicks. Style is timeless. Style looked good thirty years ago and will be in good taste thirty years from now. True style is never studied. It manages to make it's own statement heard above the temporary fads of fashion. Style requires good taste, individuality and a certain nonchalance, what the Italians call "Spezzatura." It is the art of dressing distinctively without looking like any thought or planning has been put into the final look. Being "thrown together," but perfect. It is said hoofer Fred Astaire threw his new custom made fine cut English suits against the wall repeatedly to "knock the newness out of them". Finding our 10 Best and Worst Dressers requires careful study. The dressing of our citizens hasn't improved much in 2011. There are among us no Jack Kennedys or Gary Coopers, no Katharine Hepburns or Marlene Dietrichs, Instead we have Cee Lo Green, Jack Black, Snooki, or anyone of the Kardasians. 10 BEST DRESSED MEN OF 2011Joseph Gordon Levitt - The hot young actor is new to the Best Dressed list. He's developing a personal style that evokes a cool updated 50's Rat Pack look. White short point collared shirts, skinny black ties, narrow lapels with dark fitted suits teamed with a pork-pie hat mark Gordon Levitt as a hipster but a perfectly turned out hipster at that. He pulls of the monochromed shirt-tie-suit look without looking like Joe Pesce in the movie "Las Vegas". Charlie Watts - When band-member Mick Jagger was wearing sequin tights and oversized Uncle Sam hats, the Rolling Stone's drummer was quietly going to Poole and Dege, two of Savile Row's oldest tailors. The result is somber, perfectly-fitting and low key suits that are as solid as his back-beat. Watts is as fastidious as Keith Richards is disheveled. Larry Kudlow - The CNBC Talk Show host and ardent supply-sider makes our list for the fourth year in a row. Kudlow's sense of dress shirt, suit and tie combination is always right, and interesting. Kudlow show some whimsy with pink and patterned neckwear. New York Tailor Leonard Logsdail makes Kudlow's impeccable fit. The knot of his necktie is always so. The economic analyst and pro-growth advocate sets a standard other men can aspire to. Gordon Woodrow - The long time top level Republican U.S. Senate staffer, Presidential appointee and businessman dresses like a country squire. He teams hefty tweeds with tattersall, checks and plaids and brown suede shoes, sometimes with a bright sweater-vest. Large knots the size of your fist in heavy wool ties. Woodrow always looks like he just came from shooting grouse or skeet on the Moor. Prince Philip - Husband of the Queen Elizabeth II. Prince Phillip, born Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark, The Duke of Edinburgh, is long-time a client of Gieves & Hawkes Ltd, the venerable London tailor who's house style has military lineage. Phillip, father of Prince Charles, who prefers a double-breasted look made for him by Anderson and Sheppard, was rushed to the hospital with chest pains only weeks ago. The Duke has his dashing military dress uniforms made by Johns & Pegg Ltd, his kilts by Kinloch Anderson Ltd, and shoes and boots by John Lobb. Affectionately called "Charlie the Greek" by his country-men, no one can compare with Prince Phillip at Ascot. We wish him a speedy recovery from heart surgery. Alan Flusser - The men's wear designer Alan Flusser knows more about men's clothing than perhaps anyone in the world and his taste level and flair make him the authority. Author and arbiter Flusser is an advocate for all that is correct and refined. Flusser is the designer other designers secretly emulate. The late saloon singer Bobby Short, a debonair dresser himself, consulted Flusser. Whether in a double breasted beaded stripe suit or with a scarf knotted ascot-style around his neck, Flusser is sartorial perfection. Johnny Depp - Second year on the list. Last year we said "Now, rockers and actors, and those in the creative field can get away with things the rest of us cant, but Depp's dark look, his affection for hats and a minimal but tasteful jewelry land him on the list. Scruffy but never too scruffy, it's a look Depp has perfected. "No one has looked this good in a short brimmed straw fedora since Sinatra. Jacob Stein - Few men can pull-off the bow-tie without looking like Pee Wee Herman or Malcolm X. Fox Talking head Bob Beckel from "The Five" was recently on-air with what appeared to be too perfect clip-on. Only clip ons that squirt or spin should been worn and then only if you are a comedian. Bow ties should never be perfect or prissy. They should be slightly askew, tousled and imperfect. Washington power lawyer Jacob Stein, lawyer for Monica Lewinsky, pulls this off like nobody else. Seen on K street, the dapper Stein always looks great. The DC barrister's wife owns a consignment shop and Stein clearly choses quality vintage pieces to mix into his traditional wardrobe. Dave Beckham - Great tailoring is meant to hide imperfections, making the fat look thinner, the short look taller, hiding a paunch etc. In Dave Beckham's case none of that is necessary. His body and level of fitness are incredible. Not every man can wear a vest (what the Brits call a waistcoat) without looking like a riverboat gambler or John Foster Dulles. Beckham pulls them off along with smartly cut suits, newsboy caps, classic aviator sunglasses and perfectly tied scarfs which make him stand-out when he's he not semi-nude or in a soccer uniform. Josh Mankiewicz - Hitting our list for the second year, this NBC Dateline reporter tops Brokaw, Lauer and Williams. His two-button natural shoulder suits are always fastidious, his shirts and ties chosen with care. His look is quiet, understated and always low-key. The length of his collar points chosen to compliment his face, are always accented with the perfect pocket-square in a puff that looks like he stuffed it in his breast pocket without a thought. Bill Clinton - The ex-President wasn't much of a dresser when in the White House, buying off-the-rack and wearing the clothes of Donna Karan, who designed what a woman thought a man's clothes should look like. Since his heart surgery and becoming a vegan Clinton's inner pea-cock has revealed itself. Clinton has largely dumped the big shouldered double breasted suits than made him look blocky for three piece-models that accentuate his weight loss. His new look is dignified yet natty--what we want an ex-president to look like. Check out Clinton's photo on the cover of which outlines a path ahead for America and is designed to submarine Obama, who Clinton neither likes or respects - deep blue suit, silver tie and perfect fitting vest. Hail to the Ex-Chief! LIFETIME AWARD: Willie Brown - From his hand-crafted Brioni suits to his extensive collection of hats, the former California Assembly Speaker could be the best dressed man in America. While most men should avoid brown as a suiting color (Philadelphia Brahmin Biddle was once asked why he had over 200 identical bespoke blue suits. "Because brown looks like shit," he replied) Willie brown pulls it off in both double-breasted and three piece vested models. As Mayor Brown sometimes changed clothes as many as four times a day for his various public ceremonies. A master of color-coordination, Brown's shoes, suit, shirt, necktie, hose and chapeau always complement each other. The Worst Dressed Men of 2011Michael Moore - Looks like he slept in the Occupy Wall Street tents even though he didn't. Looks like he slept in his clothes and might have. The man gives the word "slob" new meaning. Oversized sweatshirts just make a fat guy look fatter. Slovenly. While we're at it, how about a shave? Larry King - Thank God, this man is done in primetime. What is with the black shirt, black ties, black suspenders look? Who does Larry think he is - Johnny Cash? Even worse - the black shirt and white tie. Even Lucky Luciano wouldn't wear that. Larry actually wears clip-on suspenders. Clip-ons. Wise up Larry. Simon Cowell - Fourth year on the WORST list. Man-boobs should be hidden not accentuated . This guy still looks like a wax pear that sat on a radiator too long. I swear he is buying out of the International Male catalog. A pinstriped suit with a shawl lapel? He's from the U.K and can afford the best. Rush this man to a proper tailor. Jesse Ventura - Since leaving the governor's chair he looks like a homeless Hulk Hogan. The bald with a ponytail look is so...still bald. Jesse wants to be the Libertarian Party nominees for Vice President but there is no real support for him. Hint: If you are going to go on TV with outlandish conspiracy theories don't wear outlandish clothes and try washing your hair occasionally. Chuck Schumer -This guy is a schlub. Schumer has been seen in the Senate wearing the same baggy-kneed, wrinkled suit and dress shirt and pilling sweater vest three days in a row. New York has some of the greatest tailors in the world. The senior senator needs to call one. Daniel Patrick Moynihan, who once held a US Senate seat from New York, was a dandy who fancied bold striped suits, polka-dotted bow ties and jaunty Irish walking hats. Schumer dresses out of the Salvation Army. 10 BEST DRESSED WOMEN OF 2011Natalie Portman could wear a garbage bag with an old rope around the waist for a belt and still look stylish. Portman is just one of a growing number of celebrities whose basic budget-friendly choices make them seem more relatable and down-to-earth than stars who drop thousands for a single, wear-it-once dress so fashion consultant picked out. For last year's Golden Globes she chose a simple pale pink dress decorated with a large red rose which flattered her body shape perfectly, a red Dior clutch and a pair of red platforms. Always well put together and elegant. Pippa Middleton - Philippa Charlotte "Pippa" Middleton, the English socialite and younger sister of Catherine "Kate" Middleton embodies the best in English style and has elbowed her sister off our list this year. Since she was the maid of honor at her sister's wedding to Prince William she's surpassed her sister as a style-setter in the U.K. Some say she has a perfect derriere and in jeans, a mini-skirt or a party dress it seems so. Take that Kim Kardashian! Blake Lively - The Gossip Girl star has legs that go on forever. If she's sporting a short skirt she hides the cleavage. If showing the decolletage she sheaths her legs in a long dress - in other words, Lively knows when too much is too much. Liveley knows purple just "works" for her as a color and she wears it a lot-meaning she knows what she looks good in. Carly Foulkes - You know her as The T-Mobile Girl. The Canadian-born model and actress wears a summer dress like no one else. Foulkes is the "picture-perfect" brunette. Saucy, stylish and comfortable, she could get us to buy a phone or just about anything else. Always looks like she's ready for a picnic on a beautiful day. Carla Bruni - The wife of the French President has a style that is continental, chic, and understated. Although Italian she may be the single best ambassador for French couture. Her look is spare and simple and accentuates clean lines. No flashy or bright colors works for her. Blues, grey, charcoal. Cutting edge chic. Sophia Loren - Although she is seldom seen in public these days, when she is seen she wears high end Italian couture like no one else. This raven haired beauty is somehow sexier in her clothes than she would be au natural. If you have seen photos of her in a garter belt and silk seamed stockings, you have seen feminine perfection. Eva Mendez - Two Latin spitfires make our list this year. For Sofia Vergara look below. Let's face it. Mendes could wear a shower curtain and she would still look good. The woman oozes sex yet never makes it tawdry. Ms. Mendes has a skin tone that allows her to choose any color, but which works particularly well with pastel colors. Mendes knows her body and selects outfits to accentuate it. Mendes is sultry and stunning, always. Emma Watson - A stylish little hottie, the English actress who broke through in the Harry Potter films has graced the covers of Teen Vogue, the UK's Tatler and Italian Vogue. Watson cares about clothes and supports the British Fashion Industry in high style. Her choices are sure-footed. She has twice been chosen as the face of Burberry. Twiggy and Mia Farrow never looked this good in closely cropped hair. Jennifer Aniston - This woman knows what she looks good in. She sticks to a short skirt and strappy heals because she knows it looks best on her. She rarely changes her hairstyle because she has a looks that works for her and sticks to it. Aniston has always been an example of impeccable style and hardly ever gets it wrong with her looks, both on and off screen. Sofia Vergara - Usually seen on the arm of boyfriend, banking heir and someday politician Nick Loeb, Vergara has a strongly Latin influenced style that always has her looking chic on the red carpet or on the streets of Manhattan. The star doesn't shy away from her signature curve-hugging clothing. Equally stunning in jeans, dresses and colorful tops, Vergara wouldn't be caught dead in cut-off jean shorts proving you can be sexy without being vulgar. The Worst Dressed Women of 2011Snooki - Last year when we said his girl has "a big all natural Italian rack" we were inundated with complaints. Seems the Jersey Shore gal isn't Italian. Julianne Moore - Sadly this actress has no sense of coordination and can't piece together an outfit to save her life. Christina Aguilera. - When one gains weight one must adjust the size and color of one's clothes to accommodate. This singer doesn't seem to understand that. Tight fitting clothing accentuates fat, doesn't minimize it. A female sausage about to pop.?MyDaily:Rosie Huntington-Whiteley - the official Burberry Body - attended the Burberry Paris Boutique opening at the British Embassy in Paris today. And she was wearing Burberry, natch. ?eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV?eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV?From interactive ad campaigns to the world's debut 'Twit-walk' (catwalk via Twitter) Burberry has always been something of a trail blazer when it come...?We got a quick preview of the campaign from a a print photo. But now Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Ryan Reynolds' ad for Marks & Spencer is here -- and the two gorgeous stars look, well, gorgeous.The hazy video is simple but effective -- the director of the video didn't need to do much beyond instructing the actor and Burberry model to each give their best smoldering stares.And how they smolder. , Ryan makes us believe he's only got eyes for Rosie as they walk the London streets. And who wouldn't?Check out the ultra-romantic ad for Mars & Spencer's Fall/Winter 2011 collection below. WATCH: ?www.mydaily.co.uk:Looks like Marks & Spencer have added a touch of Hollywood sparkle to their Autumn/Winter 2011 campaign, which reveals Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Ryan Reynolds as the impossibly attractive new faces of the British brand.Following in the footsteps of other celebrity M&S spokesmodels, which include Twiggy, Dannii Minogue and Lisa Snowdon, Rosie and Ryan front the new Autograph campaign - the high street store's luxury in-house label. ?Missing from the article are photos of models at the launch of the lingerie today, so I went to RHW (Rosie's twitter) and took a look. In amongst the comments of praise for the line, were also ...."nice to see curvy models for a change, not stick think ones". Curvy? So I looked again, and wondered if the so called curvy ones are representing the 'plus' demographic. Certainly representing women that have a teeny bit of shape anyway, as her bra line goes to a "G" size. Another comment on RHW was... "why do none of the models look happy?" A mystery to me, as the fashion world trains their models to look bored, and barely conscious. There's a smile in there somewhere, but for some unknown reason, it might detract the buyer from purchasing if they were to see a truly happy person. Onto the headline for this article "Rosie covers up..." Odd choice for her to wear a very severe black dress better suited for going to a funeral than a lingerie launch. Her lingerie line overall looks elegant and tasteful.?www.mydaily.co.uk:Rosie Huntington-Whiteley seems to be having a nude moment. First she had pulses racing in her plunging Burberry suit earlier this week, and now she's been perched front row at New York Fashion Week, in another flesh-hued ensemble.The model-actress was snapped hanging out backstage at the Michael Kors show, in this perfectly coordinating, Sixties-inspired outfit of shift dress, knee-high boots and matching clutch... ?Louis Vuitton Outlet is famous for the unique articules ,login Louis Vuitton Online Store and Louis Vuitton Handbag On Sale to buy your articles.Louis Vuitton Handbags have become the best seller in international market.such as Monogram Multicolore,Monogram Canvas Handbags.We also offer you other platforms.Owing to the various styles and models, up-to-date styling,elegant appearance,full range of colors and designs,quality and quantity assured,The bags in Louis Vuitton Outletand Louis Vuitton Online Store sell very well both at home and abroad. Now, Login Louis Vuitton Handbag On Sale to choose your favorites. What's more,the latest commodities are renowned all over the world for exquisite workmanship, skillful knitting and elegant design,famous for selected materials, novel designs, delightful colors and exquisite workmanship. For more relevant information, please login Louis Vuitton Outlet!?When we think of American flag shirts, we usually think of or those Fourth of July tees churned by Old Navy instead of chic style.But British model Rosie and her boyfriend Jason Statham hit Miami Beach yesterday to catch some rays American style, and we have to say... the look becomes a whole lot sexier on a supermodel.Rosie slipped into a pair of dark shades to go with her blue bikini bottoms and a cut-off flag tee and she and Jason wove through a crowd on onlookers in Florida. Hmm... maybe it's a tee?Check out photos of Rosie's look below and tell us: are you feeling her patriotic outfit? ?www.mydaily.co.uk:Burberry have just announced their new scent 'Burberry Body'. It's billed as the brand's most sensual fragrance to date and will be fronted by model du jour, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. ?www.mydaily.co.uk:Rosie Huntington-Whiteley had temperatures soaring when she hit Macy's in New York last night, to celebrate the launch of the new Burberry fragrance.The model-actress slipped into a sleek nude Burberry suit for the occasion, which featured a daring plunge neckline. And of course, Rosie being Rosie, opted to go sans shirt. (Or bra, by the looks of things.) ?Rosie Huntington-Whiteley loves wearing a trench coat.So it's the ultimate irony that her new fragrance ad, which will continue to catapult her already-rising star, finds her removing a trench coat till she's wearing almost nothing at all. "This particular trench was amazing because it was silk and just felt amazing on the skin," the British model tells us. "I think that one had a sort of mink lining... which was really sexy," she adds, laughing. Alas, for the sexy commercial, Huntington-Whiteley had to take it off -- almost entirely. "There are certain tricks," she laughs, explaining how she manages to undo the coat, roll around and somehow never reveal more than a generous hint of skin. The ability to pose nearly naked with confidence is something Huntington-Whiteley learned from years modeling, including her turn as a Victoria's Secret Angel. She was less familiar, however, with acting, something she needed to learn quick as the female lead of this summer's "Transformers 3." "Well I didn't have much time [to prepare]," she tells us about making the action flick. "It was like, from the moment I was asked to be in the film to my first day on set was about two weeks. So I didn't really have much preparation time, and there wasn't a finished script for me." She added, "Physically it's very demanding -- you know you're running for like days and days on end, and you get bruises and cuts and scrapes and you fall and you get up." (When asked whether she would do it all again for a possible "Transformers 4," Rosie replies, "Absolutely.")[Read more below]Her new gig, thankfully, requires no falling, no running and certainly no bruising. As the face for Burberry's Body perfume, Huntington-Whiteley rolls around seductively in the aforementioned silk-and-mink trench coat, selling the shiny new fragrance for the British fashion house. She also sold it last night at Macy's in Herald Square, where (wearing more than she wears in the commercial, but not by much). Last night's posing was easy, as it barely compared to the giant press tour she and Shia Labeouf endured for "Transformers 3." It was on that long tour around the world, at photo calls and red carpets, that we saw Rosie wear an array of stunning dresses. Her favorite? Her gown for the movie's UK premiere in London, for which Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey custom-designed her dress. "I said I want a Michelle Pfeiffer, 'Scar Face' dress," Rosie laughed. , she said, "I felt like a million dollars."The only thing that could have possibly made it better, perhaps, would have been a guest-appearance by a royal -- one in particular. "I'm waiting for my proposal [from Prince Harry]," , admitting to a giant crush.? How could she be attracted to those lame moves?"I love a bad dancer!" laughs Rosie. "Most British men are bad dancers."WATCH: ?She's baaaack!After spending her year doing seemingly anything but runway modeling -- , and, oh yeah, -- Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has returned to the runway. Walking in Sao Paulo Fashion Week (which, , is happening right now -- it can be hard to keep track!), Rosie took two turns for Animale, a line designed by Priscilla Darolt. Although Rosie looked as natural as ever out on the catwalk in Brazil, it had been a while. The British model this past year with the explanation "I'm working that day" (on what we don't know) but her angel wings were missed.It was refreshing seeing Rosie in something other than lingerie, however. Could this be the year she conquers not only the tabloids and the red carpet but high-fashion's runways as well? We think she's up to the challenge. Plus she's gotta find some way . Check out Rosie's runway return below. ?MyDaily:The supermodel and face of Burberry Body was snapped in Miami Beach with her long term BF Jason Statham yesterday. While clearly we are well jels of Rosie's amazing abs, we have to admit her beach style is tres chic. ?Model and actress Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has been chosen as the body -- er, face of Burberry's newest fragrance, Body. , which features Huntington-Whiteley showing off her famous figure wearing nothing but a satin trench by the iconic British brand. The "Transformers 3" bombshell , "To be asked to be the first 'Burberry Body' is an amazing compliment." A compliment you probably don't even need, of course, Burberry Body will debut on September 1. . ?The unveiling of , normally released in December, is a ways away. But dedicated to , which celebrates its 40th birthday this year. And why not? The models are all featured stark naked in warm-weather locales... seems more appropriate for August, anyway.Unfortunately for those hoping for a sneak peek of 2013's big shoot, GQ Germany's spread is devoted to vintage pics from past calendars. The winning shot? A , posing with her back to Terry Richardson's camera in nothing but lil' shorts. Mysteriously, her nipple seems to have pulled a disappearing act...WARNING: The photos below contain full-frontal nudity and may not be safe for viewing at work.Other models to earn spots in the retrospective include Naomi Campbell, Natasha Poly and Ana Beatriz Barros, who does the sexy-messy-eating thing with a hunk of watermelon dribbling down her chest. [Ed. note: do men even find this sort of sloppiness attractive?] And a Pirelli retrospective wouldn't be complete without a vintage Kate Moss photo -- although there are plenty to choose from, GQ Germany's fave was from 1994, shot by Herb Ritts.While on first glance (and second and third and fourth glance...) the photos simply show beautiful naked women naked, GQ Germany's roundup nicely juxtaposes the unique shoots, from to Mario Testino's souped-up glam in 2001, allowing the differences between the models, photographers and even historical eras to shine through.See? Looking at topless models in GQ is so totally educational.Check out plus some of GQ Germany's favorite vintage shots below.NSFW PHOTOS:Want more? Be sure to check out HuffPost Style on , , and .?Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has tweeted the first photos of her with her Mad Max 4 co-stars Zoe Kravitz, Riley Keough and Adelaide Clemens.The quartet recently arrived in Namibia to start filming their roles as wives in Mad Max: Fury Road.Rosie Huntington-Whiteley posted a picture on her Instagram account of herself and new Mad Max co-stars Zoe Kravitz, Riley Keough and Adelaide ClemensThe model-turned-actress - who got her start in Hollywood when she appeared in the third Transformers movie last year - will also be sharing the screen with Charlize Theron and Tom Hardy in the action flick, with Hardy taking over from Mel Gibson in the role of Max. for her role as Furiosa in the film. She and Tom Hardy were first attached to Mad Max 4 in 2009, but it was postponed after a number of production setbacks.She toldThe fourth Mad Max film comes 27 years after the last instalment, Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome.?Residence: New York, NY, US Hometown: Devon, England Height: 5'9" Eye Color: Blue Date of Birth: April 18, 1987 Agency: Women Model Management Campaigns: Abercrombie & Fitch, BCBG Max Azria, Burberry, Clinique, DKNY, Levi's, Topshop, Victoria's Secret Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is often compared to other models, from Kate to Gisele to Natalia, but we think she's making quite a name for herself and needs no comparison. Born in Devon, England, on April 18, 1987, Rosie is the oldest of three children and a distant relative of Queen Victoria. She was discovered in 2003 while attending Tavistock College. Always interested in fashion, she had her sights set on a career behind the camera until she walked into London's Profile Model Management looking for a little work experience. Instead of giving her an internship, the agency quickly signed her. Rosie modeled locally for about a year before signing with Women Management in 2004; she landed on the covers of ELLEgirl and Teen Vogue that same year. Since her bright beginning, Rosie has appeared in many monthlies, including Elle and Japanese, Spanish, Chinese, Italian, and British Vogue, in whose November 2008 issue she was featured alongside Eden Clark and Jourdan Dunn in a feature celebrating the newest crop of British models. As for campaigns, Rosie has worked with Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, Paul Smith, DKNY, BCBG Max Azria, Clinique Happy, Burberry, and Victoria's Secret. Not a girl to be confined to glossy pages, Rosie is at home on the runways as well, having made her debut in September 2004 in the Nicole Miller and Vivienne Tam shows in New York. She continued her tour of the runways for Dsquared2, Just Cavalli, Moschino, Valentino, Betsey Johnson, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, and Elie Saab in 2005. And 2006 and 2007 saw Rosie walking for Heatherette, Max Azria, Vera Wang, Marchesa, and Rock & Republic. Fashion is not just Rosie's day job: She is a trendsetter on and off the runway, rocking such signature looks as short hemlines and of-the-moment clutches. She made waves at the 2008 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala, to which she wore Burberry. Actually, she manages to make style waves no matter where she goes, most often at the hottest London parties and fashion events worldwide. This English girl lives in London and loves surfing as well as the green movement, having joined up with Green Thing, a new online community, to make the world a better place. Other Rosie favorites: steak, chips, and Diet Coke.?Rosie Huntington-Whitely struck a seductive pose in for fall's Mario Testino-shot Burberry Body campaign.But the British beauty has taken a more demure turn in ads for Marks & Spencer's latest Autograph collection, which hits stores today. The images see Rosie, 24, getting cozy with Ryan Reynolds, a decade her senior. The model radiates classic elegance in a ladylike rose-hued blouse, seasonal staples like a chunky knit sweater and versatile blazer.Rosie that the British high street store gives her pangs of nostalgia for her English upbringing.What do you think of the images? We like that they have a hazy, cinematic look, which is fitting given Rosie's .We also can't argue with the selection of easy-on-the-eyes Reynolds as Rosie's on-camera partner.Check out the photo below -- what do you think of the pair? ?Burberry, the luxury British outerwear maker, will reveal all its looks via Twitter today, prior to the designs featuring on the runway. The luxury brand is set to show at Kensington Gardens at 4pm, but in the brand's signature democratised fashion, fans from around the world will see the designs before key editors and guests at the runway show. In an interview prior to London Fashion Week, that digital media is just as important to the brand as fashion design. He said: "Burberry is now as much a media-content company as we are a design company, because it's all part of the overall experience. It's very important to consider new technologies with a light approach. Facebook, for example, is not just a mailbox. You need to keep it going, add content, create a genuine, non-deceptive relationship."The runway show will also be l. London Fashion Week has an extensive digital schedule, . Fans of fashion, and observers of digital media application, can follow . London Fashion Week runs until Wednesday, when male fashion will take over from five days of womenswear. ?, who is best known for playing Ron Weasley in the , has always been overshadowed by his co-stars. not only rid the wizarding world of He Who Must Not Be Named, but he has also had a successful theater career, and even took it all off for the lead role in "Equus." , on the other hand, has been embraced by the fashion world. In addition to landing the cover of Vogue, Teen Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle and now T Magazine's September issue, the has and .So, back to Grint. Although he may not have quite the fashion cred of , the British-born actor has solidified his off-screen look. Whether walking the red carpet or doing errands, you can expect to see the child star wearing his uniform: a graphic t-shirt, blazer and dark slacks.To celebrate Grint's 24th birthday on August 24th, we're taking a look back at how his style has changed (or hasn't changed) over the years. Which one of his blazer/tee combos is your favorite?Want more? Flip through our many other and be sure to check out Stylelist on , , and . ?Academy Awards producers are certainly regretting their decision to allow Sacha Baron Cohen to attend the award show in full "Dictator" regalia, after he ."Ryan was visibly upset about the stunt but managed to keep his composure," an E! insider told me. "It's not only that Sacha used Ryan in a desperate attempt to get publicity for his film; it's the fact that the joke was just not funny."But Seacrest didn't seem too torn up over the fumbled urn. "My mom always told me to pack two jackets for red carpets, always wondered why. Now I know," . But behind the scenes, no one at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences was laughing."It's the Oscars, for God's sake," an A-list TV presenter told me. "It's just not the time nor the place. We were all amazed that the academy allowed him to walk the carpet dressed like that in the first place. But after the incident they were livid. Unless he ever gets nominated for something, you can expect to never see him invited back again."Jennifer Lopez was one of the first celebrities to talk with Seacrest after the incident, checking that her "American Idol" friend was okay. It turns out that it takes a lot more than Bisquick mix to stop Seacrest from asking that all-important question, "Who are you wearing?" ?On the opening night to the fashion world's biggest week, Fashion Night Out turns the streets of New York City into runways, the neighborhoods into the most trendy block parties and the stores into music venues. With celebs like Helen Mirren, Dwayne Wade, Justin Bieber, the Kardashians, Beth Ditto, Anna Wintour and even the enigmatic Banksy running around, you never know who you will be rubbing shoulders with. With everything open to the public, it's a free-for-all adventure through fashion and what the latest trends will be with the attention on every store trying to outdo their competition as to who will deliver the best party and attract the most faces. With name DJs supplying the soundtrack to each venue and free alcohol flowing like water, the choices as to what to do can be intense and overwhelming. My night was made simple as the British buzz band, (and a band I have tipped to be one of the "") were flown in from Burberry to play at their SoHo flagship store and coincidentally would be the bands first American gig. I caught up with the lads from the tiny town of Morcombe who were wide-eyed about their maiden voyage to the city. "I am just thrilled to be in the city that gave us The Shang-Ri-La's and The Ronnetts!" bassist Deaks told me as I met with the band before their big gig. The band played two sets at the Burberry store to a packed audience who were curious to see a live band rather than someone spinning records. "Just last week were all crammed in a small room sleeping and recording together, now we have been put up at Tribeca Grand, I just can't believe this!" singer Matthew Whitehouse told me. Funny enough, Whitehouse is also a Burberry model, so the pairing of such a great brand and band was just inevitable. The excitement the boys of The Heartbreaks had was displayed in the two 20-minute sets they played at Burberry. Set number one was as if they were their own opening act, showing off their sound and style to the audience who were fascinated with this new band. "This song went to number 482 on the Billboard 500 here, we are very excited to play it," Whitehouse told the audience before they broke into the catchy "Jealous, Don't You Know." The sound of The Heartbreaks is very British, so it was only fitting that Burberry was their debut performance. They are four very dapper gentlemen who make fantastic Britpop meets surf rock chic of music. While set one saw them introduce themselves, it was their second set that really had them cooking. With champagne flowing in the crowd and the band really breaking out of their shells, it was then that they had arrived in perfect fashion. "It is not really a proper gig, but it's cool," drummer Joseph Kondras told me after the gig. "We are really excited to hopefully come back now after we put our record out, we can't wait to get the record out," he continued. The Heartbreaks trip to New York City was short-lived but the excited and wide-eyed band will return home with their heads held up high. They are currently in the studio recording their debut with Frank Turner's producer Tristan Ivemy. The record is expected to be released in March and from the sound of it already, they should get used to being spoiled and having big things come their way. Follow Salvatore Bono on Twitter:?The UK's first lady, Samantha Cameron, never attempts to hide her interest in A-list fashion shows. In fact, style is part of her job: she's the ambassador for the British Fashion Council, after all.Last year, SamCam and other shows, and she also that was graced by the likes of Anna Wintour and Tom Ford. And this year, she continues her sartorial streak, popping up at A-list shows and hanging with fashion's biggest names.In a Jonathan Saunders green top paired with a black suit, she perched front row at both Burberry and Christopher Kane shows on Sunday. Later, she in a gorgeous pink frock and camped out next to Anna Wintour and Salma Hayek -- the latter of who was attending her first ever London Fashion Week show.We can't wait to see where SamCam will show up next!PHOTOS:Related on HuffPost: ?The designer dress worn by Prime Minister David Cameron's wife to last year's royal wedding is being auctioned for charity.Samantha Cameron was described as one of the best dressed guests when she wore the green, silk teal Burberry dress to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge's nuptials, accessorising it with a dazzling orange scarf, statement necklace and nude shoes.The garment will be sold to raise money for Save the Children. The Burberry dress is being auctioned on eBayMrs Cameron said: "Save the Children do amazing work here in the UK and internationally."By taking part in the Born to Shop auction, the public can do their bit to help Save the Children make a difference to the lives of children all over the world."I love the Burberry dress I wore to the royal wedding, and am thrilled that I have been able to donate it to the Save the Children Born to Shop auction."Fashionistas have eight days left to bid on the eBay auction to secure their piece of fashion history.Launched on September 13, #bidboutique, Save the Children's first online auction in conjunction with both eBay and The British Fashion Council is supported by a host of celebrities and designers, including Preen, Erdem, House of Holland, Alexander McQueen and Piers Atkinson.The Born to Shop #bidboutique online auction is part of the No Child Born to Die campaign which aims to stop the needless deaths of more than 7.6 million children every year.With the money raised from the auction, Save the Children will be able to deliver life-saving aid to children in some of the world's poorest countries.?The Brits are here!Britain's prime minister David Cameron and his wife, Samantha Cameron, finally touched down on this side of the pond on Tuesday to mark their long-awaited visit to the United States.And of course, we were anxious to see what Mrs. Cameron, who's somewhat of a style icon, would be wearing, and we got our answer: a Burberry trench coat, Joseph trousers and L.K. Bennett shoes -- a favorite of -- Despite her all-black ensemble, SamCam looked cool in the sun as she alighted from the plane with her husband, British prime minister David Cameron.The Camerons spent the day with the Obamas in Washington before the president and the prime minister jetted off to Ohio for a basketball game.While the boys , FLOTUS and Mrs. Cameron attended a mini-Olympics event with local school children at American University's Bender Arena. SamCam looked pretty in the she wore in February for her Fashion Week party at 10 Downing Street. Mrs. Obama opted for a frilly chartreuse cardigan by L'Wren Scott with very chic wide-legged trousers.This wasn't the pair's first rendezvous; they at 10 Downing Street together (we know, SO cute!) and apparently swapped fashion tips, as Check out all the pics below! ?With the polka dot trend in full swing and as today happens to be the anniversary of the last Mickey and Minnie Mouse cartoon strip Walt Disney ever scripted, it gives me a tenuous enough reason to celebrate some animated fashion via Lazy Oaf's revisiting of Minerva's iconic look.?I agree with you. I don't know what the hype is. I find her incredibly unattractive in fact, borderline ugly. If you take her features apart, the only thing that is pretty on her face are her eyes, their color, her mouth is okay. But the entire package is lame. I used to work in the city, where they'd occasionally film an episode by my work place, where I'd see her on occasion, she was skin and bones! too thin, even for my taste. They do dress her beautifully though, and that's the only thing that she has going for her in terms of beauty.?Art director Christopher Lee Sauve's impeccable style radar and youthful vision have won him a diverse and enviable client list of New York's finest, boasting names from Alexander Wang to DVF via W Hotels and the New York City Opera. However, it's the collection of 'scandalous' T shirts for his eponymous line that is making waves right now.CLS has taken the rebellious cheeky controversy-courting spirit seen in his infamous 'Save Anna' shirts (in support of US Vogue's legendary Editor-In-Chief, Anna Wintour, when it was rumoured she was to be ousted from her Conde Nast throne) to a new level with this unisex range inspired by various designer and celebrity gaffes, making something so right from some things that are generally a bit wrong.Featuring hand drawn illustrations of their subjects with details of the scandal scrawled and cut'n'pasted alongside in a truly punk fashion, CLS brings us some fun, tongue in cheek Ts that include Lady Gaga and the Meat Dress vs Peta, Karl Lagerfeld and Tom Ford's anti-fatty rants, and Madonna's controversial gun-heeled shoes. Check out the whole range, which is available to buy at ￡60 per shirt, on 's site - an amazing little site that brings the best in cutting edge and emerging New York and Los Angeles design talent to the UK - Follow Sarah McGiven on Twitter:?Clumsies beware! White is going head to head with red in the colour battle to be this year's Christmas No. 1. The Autumn / Winter 2011/12 catwalks were awash with snowy looks from top designers including , ￡665), Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent and Hermes.As prepares to open its White Wonders concept store, I had a sneak peek at some of the pieces designed exclusively for this Wonder Room pop up which, if - like me - you're an accident magnet and a slave to the dinner medal, you'll be pleased to hear includes a host of amazing alabaster accessories. Burberry Pattison jacket, ￡995From a milky (￡895) and Givenchy tote (￡1,165) to a fitting Tom Ford White Musk candle and glitteringly sleek make up set from MAC, switching its signature black packaging to fit with the achromatic theme, the White Wonders collection is filled with gorgeous gifts and some seriously covetable clothing (the and Burberry trenches in white for men and women - HELLO). Brit Artist Marc Quinn, whose 2008 golden Microcosmos Siren sculpture of Kate Moss in a complicated looking yoga pose recently made headlines after reportedly fetching over $900,000 at auction, has also put together a capsule range of products for the store as well as a new installation which will be on display - hopefully no frozen blood heads this time. I'm not sure whether I should have included this before I've got my own hot little hands on them as they're guaranteed sell outs (again), but in the spirit of seasonal sharing check out these festive L'Oreal sets which are also Selfridges exclusives. If you're a product junkie, you're going to want to be all over the - a fantastic diet alternative to the usual chocolate variety - which contains 24 mini treats from the likes of Lancome, Kiehls, Shu Uemura and YSL. There's also a genius version (￡38) - mini screwdrivers and fortune telling fish be gone! If you're brave enough to try to pull off the winter white trend on a clothing level it might be wise to make like Victoria Beckham (who also has a specially designed bag in the White Wonders collection) and match your beverage colour to your outfit to minimise staining dramas - mmmm Starbucks steamed milk with an almond shot... My favourite footwear pieces - all white Dr Martens & some classic retro Moonboots (￡135)Some White Wonders items are available to purchase now from but if you want to see the full range, the White Wonders Concept Store opens on 28th October and will be located within the Wonder Room on the ground floor of Selfridges' Oxford Street flagship. Follow Sarah McGiven on Twitter:?Coachella officially kicks Music Festival season off in the US this weekend and, as the UK's Summer Festivals loom large, there's one thing you can guarantee - rain. Luckily, designers and retailers, ever quick to herald their Festival Fashion trends, have finally caught on to the fact that floral dresses, a plaid shirt and some cut off denims aren't really where it's at. What modern festival goers really need are cool, lightweight, at least shower-proof jackets and ideally ones that can be screwed up at the bottom of your backpack or tied round your waist when that sun decides to show itself. Pac-a-macs have enjoyed a huge resurgence recently but can get a bit 'boil in the bag' so thankfully now there are some serious yet practical fashion options available that are perfect for everyday too and come in this season's cheeriest shade - bright, citrus-y, sunshine yellow. Here's my pick of some of the best rainwear out now, and a selection of cute wellies - including the inspired Moschino Cheap And Chic 'Wet-A-Porter' boots for Net-A-Porter.com - to go with them.Top Row: , ￡1,400, , ￡395, , ￡550, , ￡300, , ￡95,.Bottom Row: , ￡125 from , Ilse Jacobsen soft shell water repellent coat, ￡110 from , Paddington Bear shower proof parka, and if you don't fancy going all out yellow, you can rock a hint of primary with this unisex - I have this, it's awesome - for half price! Now ￡55 from .Top Row: , ￡235 from, in White, ￡110 from , , ￡125, exclusively from . Second Row: Left and right - ￡95 from Coggles.com now plus Poste Mistress Covent Garden and Harvey Nichols from May, and centre - Aigle Yellow Chantebelle boots, ￡80 from . Third Row: , ￡85 (Top Tip - try Marc by Marc Jacobs stores 'Special Items' section for cheaper versions of these in a variety of colourways without the fitted style), , ￡125, , ￡250, all from. Bottom Row: Aigle lightweight foldable wellingtons - roll them down to stash them in their own little carrier, ￡75 from .Follow Sarah McGiven on Twitter:?She's borderline Tranny. The dress is too tight and looks exaggerated , especially with her breasts looking like they're about to explode.The hair is too sleek for the size of her head. She's got a large head and large features squeezing that type of statuesque body into a gress that's so detailed exaggerates what's already exaggerated by nature. The fingernails and the toe nails should match. Is that a daytime dress? She definitely looks like a transvestite.?LONDON — It looks like for some designers, next spring is fashion's moment to shine – literally.Metallic leather, shiny satin and foil-like fabrics in rainbow colors dazzled on the catwalk at Burberry Prorsum Monday, reinforcing a trend that already saw lashings of sequins and space-age style designs earlier in London Fashion Week.Burberry, which typically puts on the most extravagant and celebrity-studded display during the week-long style extravaganza, went for flamboyant luxury for its latest spring collection. The catwalk was packed with iridescent swimsuits, metallic leather trench coats and satin corsets, and the palette was that of precious metals and gemstones: Gold, silver, emerald, turquoise and ruby."I wanted to do a collection that makes people smile," creative director Christopher Bailey said after the show. "I want it to be joyous, a bit sassier and sexier."The show's front row guests included boy band One Direction's Harry Styles, burlesque actress Dita von Teese, "Slumdog Millionaire" star Dev Patel and tennis player Andy Murray.Bailey opened with a structured white silk cape draped over a rose gold bodysuit with fine ruching.Coats – especially Burberry's signature trench coats – featured prominently, but there was also a notable move toward capes and a puffy, button-less cocoon jacket shape.Standout variations on the cape included one in silver leather, draped over an emerald shift dress, and another in clear orange plastic trimmed with python leather.The repeated pairings of capes with corsets was inspired by early 1900s photos from the Burberry archive, Bailey said.Meanwhile, trench coats were reimagined in a luxurious gold lace, a hot pink-to-red ombre, and in the finale, a rainbow of metallic textured leather in shiny fuchsia, purple, cobalt and bronze.That same shiny colored leather was seen on the bags, too, paired with matching shades of clear plastic.Burberry's Bailey wasn't the only one bit by the shiny, metallic bug. Holographic material and full-on sequined party dresses appeared at Jonathan Saunders, Topshop Unique had silver paired with white organza, and Preen's show featured metallic lace.Scottish heritage brand Pringle also featured plastic details, though it was only a nod. The brand, best known for its fine argyle knits, updated frumpy `50s crew neck twinsets with vibrant colors like jade and canary yellow, and embellished them with geometric plastic beading.Pringle, which presented its collection in a hotel room instead of on a catwalk, also featured a host of pretty sorbet shades, the other trend for next season. Knits and jackets were made in soothing hues of dove grey, lilac, pale lemon and powder pink.Also showing on Day Four were Christopher Kane, Erdem and Peter Pilotto. The action will be winding down on Tuesday, the last day of womens' wear previews at the fashion week.?THE CANADIAN PRESS -- VANCOUVER - Three Canadian companies have been ordered to pay roughly $2.5 million for selling knock-off Louis Vuitton and Burberry handbags in what a Federal Court judge describes as an "egregious" case of trademark infringement.Vancouver-based companies Singga Enterprises Inc. and Carnation Fashion Company, along with Altec Productions of Toronto, were accused of importing, manufacturing and selling handbags bearing Louis Vuitton and Burberry logos.Louis Vuitton and Burberry filed their lawsuit after using private investigators for two years to visit warehouses and purchase fake handbags in person and online.Judge James Russell said all three companies were involved in large-scale importing, manufacturing and selling of fake handbags and took steps to cover up their actions."All of the defendants' previous and ongoing actions are clearly knowing, planned and deliberate," Russell said in a written judgment posted to the court's website this week."The defendants have also attempted to deliberately conceal or cover up their wrongdoings, avoiding dealing with unknown individuals, obscuring domain name ownership and switching websites, and/or hiding such goods from view of the public or anyone entering their premises."Neither Singga nor Altec appeared at hearings in the Federal Court last year, and neither provided any evidence to dispute the allegations.Both companies were accused of running the counterfeit operations out of storefront warehouses and online. They also worked together, with Singga sending customers to Altec and receiving commissions in return.Altec has continued to sell counterfeit bags online despite the ongoing court case, Russell said."Given the egregious nature of their activities, the normal trademark and copyright profit or damages assessments would not be sufficient, and punitive and exemplary damages should be awarded," Russell wrote."This is particularly true with the Altec defendants, who have blatantly continued their activities notwithstanding commencement of this proceeding, and have ignored the process of this court."Singga was ordered to pay a total of nearly $850,000 to Louis Vuitton and Burberry, including $200,000 in punitive damages. Altec was ordered to pay about $1.2 million, including $250,000 in punitive damages.Carnation owner Jessie Guo did appear at the hearings and admitted she was selling fake bags, though she insisted she wasn't familiar with Canadian trademark law. She also denied having any connection to Singga.Lawyers for the fashion houses said Guo had been co-operative during the legal process and described her operation as significantly smaller in scale than Singga and Altec. Her company was ordered to pay $390,000."Guo gave me the impression that she may have learned her lesson and she expressed contrition for her past conduct," Russell wrote."Guo obviously knew, however, that what she was doing was wrong, and yet she kept on doing it for several years and simply hoped that she would not be found out. The clandestine nature of her activities confirms this. There is no real excuse. She was perfectly happy to go on doing what she knew was wrong in order to make money at the expense of the plaintiffs' rights."Louis Vuitton adopted of a "zero-tolerance" policy for counterfeit goods in 2004, which has led to over 13,000 legal actions, 6,000 raids and about 950 arrests, according to the company's website.A crackdown against stores in Vancouver-area shopping malls led to a successful 2008 lawsuit in which Louis Vuitton claimed $980,000 in damages and about $50,000 for court costs. ?Saturday rolls around and I'm annoyingly aware it's the first weekend in ages that no plans have been made with the beau - I worry that he has tired of my affections, (incredible as this may seem) ...My best friend Zoe saves the day with a text.?eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV?%2BmT0BiOAFtrtokNKpUskOJ8H48FfJw8w2fwJRIZ%2FmkxHhB9wN3OKyzyLcj7%2BIaIUlBrT8Mnfgr0u5YNGmCouCEzr13WH06%2FKw9sAFVgPVn1yfM9c4bEk3KHP%2B65GOlBt?Last night Burberry celebrated the launch of Body, the British fashion house's new fragrance, in Beverly Hills.Serena Williams, Rachel Zoe, Kate Bosworth, and Solange Knowles are just a handful for the stars that attended the event. Knowles, one of , served as the party's DJ and wore a bold printed blouse with a high-waisted blue skirt. "I definitely gravitate toward prints and color," in an interview earlier this month. We love her use of color and proportions. HIgh-waited pants and skirts are on the rise (pun intended)--and a great staples in your Fall wardrobe. Here's a look at the event's stylish scene. ?Whether it's a Louis Vuitton, Proenza Schouler or Chanel that your heart desires, it's likely, if you're spending upwards of $1,000 on a purse, you want it to be real. But there are plenty of people out there -- online and on street corners -- who are looking for people super keen on buying a Birkin to scam. (Can you imagine what it would feel like to think you've bought "the real deal" when all you've snagged is a knock-off? Blah.)Avoid the feeling of "it" bag buying defeat, by checking out these tips from . Their five tidbits will help you spot a fake online, and will save you from serious sartorial heartbreak. Easy Tells Spotting replica handbags used to be simple; check the hardware, logos and material. Lightweight metal accents, slightly skewed logos and cheap materials are still the first lines of defence for warding off fakes, but with today’s higher-quality knock-offs, it’s a case of needing steps two through five as well.Online Indicators When buying a handbag online, make sure it’s from a reputable source. If sites are based in China or Hong Kong, proceed with caution, as the two countries make up 88.8 per cent of the goods seized. Also, check the descriptions and reviews for signs of inauthenticity. If customer reviews say the bags aren’t the real thing, then they likely aren’t.Respectable Resellers Just because a bag is sold online, it doesn’t mean it’s fake. Authentic and vintage handbags are often sold on eBay; buyers just need to be smart in researching the seller. If the deal looks too good to be true, it usually is. A Chanel bag will never be $50, so use common sense. Certified resale sites like Portero also offer discounts on authentic bags.Craftsmanship Flaws A Burberry or Prada handbag will not have crooked stitching or unfinished edges. High-end brands take ultimate pride in craftsmanship, so no imperfect bag would leave their factory for a legitimate retailer like Nordstrom. The leathers and fabrics of authentic bags will always be perfectly stitched and lined up, never crooked or gapped stitched.Brand-Specific Giveaways Know the signs to look for in the specific bag. For instance, Marc Jacobs’ zippers are embossed with either RiRi or Lampo and all Louis Vuitton bags made since the early ‘80s have a date stamped somewhere on the interior. Brand fanatics spend time spotting knock-off bags to protect their favourite designers’ integrity, so a quick search before you buy will reveal specific tells for each high-end brand.Armed with these five tips, spotting imitation designer handbags should be simple. Don’t fall into the impostor trap -- if the real thing is too expensive, buy an authentic, quality handbag of a lesser-known brand. Here are real Hermes bags on the arms of celebs: Also on HuffPost:?A graduate of London College of Fashion (LCF), Matteo Mollinari showed his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear and accessories range as part of LCFM, an initiative that brought together LCF menswear alumni Molinari, Domingo Rodriguez and Asger Juel Larsen to show their collections to an attentive audience that gathered on a runway at the Royal Society of Arts on 15 June 2012.?In the early 1990's, the red carpet was far from the international fashion frenzy it has become today. No one ever heard of paying a stylist to "place" a piece of jewelry on a celebrity client, and loaning jewelry to the stars, so common today, was nearly unheard of -- or at least not widely discussed.?JACKSON, Miss. — A Georgia woman had little chance of surviving an illegal cosmetic procedure in Mississippi because the silicone-like substance that was injected in...?Yesterday, on a long-awaited balmy Los Angeles day, Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey hosted a classic English Tea at an Ivy-covered estate in Beverly Hills. The cute-as-a-button Brit had flown into town on a one day jaunt to celebrate the brand's very first beauty line, which launched at Nordstrom earlier this month.Though the weather was schvitz-worthy, the intimate crowd -- which included Kate Bosworth, Lake Bell, Rachel Zoe and Jayma Mays -- managed to stay cool as the cucumber and chive tea sandwiches being served.And Bosworth particularly stood out in a nude lace creation from the Burberry Porsum pre-fall '10 collection."We're twins!" the actress laughed as a fellow guest strolled by wearing the dress' black-hued counterpart. Only Bosworth added her own spin to the outfit with a tanned leather belt, lending a young, laid-back quality to the look. GARDEN PARTY: Model May Anderson and Kate Bosworth. She wasn't the only bold faced name to wear slick accessories. Nylon Fashion Director Dani Stahl, who was hosting a Lia Sophia jewelry event at the Sunset Tower Hotel later that evening, sported a cool copper headband; While Zoe effortlessly strutted the lush green lawn in a pair of stilt-like platform sandals that became a topic of guest conversation.But the accessories with the most buzz were the lipsticks, eyeshadows and blushes in Burberry's brand new line of cosmetics. The collection, simply called Burberry Beauty, consists of twenty extremely wearable, classic shades including Brick Red No. 19, a deep, blood-hued lip color, and Russet Blush No. 01, a natural, peachy cheek powder.Bosworth is a fan."I'm in love with the collection," she gushed to Bailey before inviting him to later meet her at Chateau Marmont for a drink.But Bailey, who was only in town for twelve hours, had to decline."Next time," he said, looking genuinely bummed. As the air finally started to cool, it was anyone's guess what the designer would miss more: the company of a movie star or the first genuinely perfect night of summer. Click here to read more at Follow Style Section L.A. on Twitter:?This week, with runway newcomer Tali Lennox, daughter of rocker Annie Lennox. The 17-year-old is signed with Next Models and has already graced the catwalk for Prada, Roberto Cavalli, Burberry and Missoni. , "My family is very supportive; they have a lot of faith and trust in me. I talk through every aspect of my job with my mum, and she's given me a lot of self-belief and wisdom. I don't talk about it that much with most of my friends. It's nice to be with people who are detached from the industry."She also shared her most memorable experience from the last season of shows: Speeding through Milan on a motorcycle in heels and a minidress, trying to get from the Missoni show to the Versus show, being over four hours late. I rushed in and had four people doing my hair, two people doing my makeup, and another two on nails and toes all at the same time. I heard an Italian woman repeatedly calling "Tali, Tali! Where is Tali?" I finally make it to the backstage line where all the other girls are already lined up and see that the woman calling for me is Donatella Versace! The show set was like a playground, and I felt like the naughty girl at fashion school! Check out some images of Tali on and off the runway. ?Meet the new faces of Burberry -- although they should look familiar to you. That little lady on the right is Tali Lennox, daughter of songstress Annie, who is kind of a big deal. And on the right? Tara Ferry, son of rocker Bryan Ferry. We would have loved to be a fly on the wall (on the beach?) at this photoshoot. We've already married them off to each other in our minds.Take a look:WATCH: ?Tali is one of the most successful young models in the UK. Having shot the Topshop Christmas campaign in 2010 Tali has gone on to shoot for Burberry, and is the current face of Karen Millen. She has modelled for the likes of Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Julien Macdonald, House of Holland, Prada, Missoni, John Rocha, Topshop, Issa and Betty Jackson. Julein Macdonald personally asked herto be a guest judge on Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model alongside Elle Macpherson. She has also customised and decorated a watering can that will be on show on a one-off pop-up shop on 63 Broadwick Street, London W1F. It is part of a series of exhibits designed by other celebrities, including Katharine Hamnett, David Shrigley and Bill Nighy, all to be auctioned on ebay ? . Auction closes on Sunday May 20th.?Apple has become one of the world's most valued brands, following stellar sales in both developed and emerging markets last year. It was only beaten into second place by beverages giant Coca Cola in Interbrand's 13th annual global brand survey.Technology giants dominated the listings in 2012, with social media giant Facebook entering the report at number 69 after making headlines as the third largest IPO in US historySearch engine Google experienced a 26% increase in brand value over the last year which helped to place it an impressive fourth, ahead of its rival Microsoft for the first time. Microsoft placed 5th.But there was a distinct lack of British companies - just four in the list's 100 companies. This is partly explained by a number of fallers from last year's report, including Barclays which suffered from its rate-rigging scandal.Barclays wasn't the only financial services company to suffer; Zurich and UBS also failed to make the grade in 2012. Luxury brands also performed wellLuxury goods performed well, thanks mainly to their retained brand value - with Burberry placing at 82, Prada at 84, Tiffany and Co at 70 and Hermes at 63. Louis Vuitton secured 17th place, with Gucci coming in close behind on 38th.Automotive brands performed well too as companies become more attuned to the emotional connection consumers have with their cars.This has caused many automakers to develop more effective, technologically savvy ways to reach target markets and help prospective buyers better relate to car brands. Audi’s digital showroom, Audi City, combes digital product presentations and personal contact with dealers. It placed at 55.Similarly, Ford (placed at 45) is working hard to improve MyTouch, its in-car communications and entertainment system. Brands like BMW (placed 12th) and Hyundai (placed 53th) are investing in global brand campaigns and are becoming more digitally connected and tailored to narrower target groups. The whole industry is hoping to engage customers and prospects in a relevant and personalised manner throughout the entire purchase cycle, said.Another interesting brand to note was Smirnoff, which increased its brand value by 5%, but still only managed to place 90th, one place down on 2011.Interbrand examines the three key aspects that contribute to a brand’s value:Elsewhere, Amazon UK, Marks & Spencer and House of Fraser have topped the UK Ecommerce Performance Index study.However, the report, which scored 25 of the UK’s top retailers’ websites against a detailed best practice benchmark, presented a disappointing average score of 58%, well short of 2011’s score of 63%, which indicates retailers are struggling to keep up with maturing consumer expectations.David Bowen, product manager at EPiServer which produced , commented: “The overall score of 58% demonstrates there is plenty of room for improvement and a real opportunity for savvy retailers to give themselves a significant competitive edge with just a few simple measures.”The biggest bones of contention for consumer expectations were the speed of checkout process and the cost of delivery."We’ve seen some great examples of websites delivering excellent service in particular areas, but very few are scoring well at all stages of the online shopping journey," said Bowen."Many retailers have fallen down at different points too, so there’s no single point of concern across the board. Amazon is a great example of how taking care of every stage can deliver a superior customer experience and this will ultimately support increased conversions and sale values.“Our findings highlight areas where even the UK’s top retailers are risking customer loyalty, extra revenue and market share by underestimating consumer expectation.”?After 5 years pursuing their own successful careers ? Alana as a professional dancer and Lisa as a theatre producer, identical Scottish twins Alana and Lisa Macfarlane decided to join forces and are one of the hottest new presenters in the UK. They started their presenting career with Verge Magazine, the UK’s largest student magazine that’s distributed to all UK universities and colleges, it's here they crafted their quirky yet personable presenting style. The Mac Twins have covered some of the biggest music events including The Brits, Wireless Festival and Radio 1's Big Weekend. Away from music the girls have covered a range of events from London Fashion Week through to the 2012 Olympic Torch Relay. It seems like everyone wants to be interviewed by The Mac Twins and they have interviewed a host of stars including Ed Sheeran, Wretch 32, Keith Lemon, Katherine Jenkins, Plan B, Stooshe, Vic Reeves, Brooke Kinsella and Rizzle Kicks. The girls have made a splash in the world of radio and feature on BBC Radio 1Xtra’s breakfast show with Twin B each week. As broadcasters their talents have been used for BBC Scotland TV and Sky's Digital's Community Channel, as well as hosting events at the o2. The Mac Twins also model and act. Lisa appeared in the latest Harry Potter film (Deathly Hallows) and Alana is a fittings model for Burberry, Karen Millen, ASOS, Miss Selfridge and Ted Baker. They also have partnerships with Primark, Hobs Salons and Liza Smith celebrity Nails. Alana currently runs her own performance school in Scotland called Gie It Laldy (www.gieitlaldy.com) As DJ’s The Mac Twins were the official DJ’s for the World Series Squash Championships (live on Sky Sports), Tinchy Stryder’s ‘Goji Headphones’ Launch, National Women’s Day at Aura night club, The Olympic Torch Relay in front of 30,000 people and are now the new resident DJ’s at top exclusive London club ‘Whisky Mist’ every Friday night. For bookings or more information on the girls please contact info@thehubentertainment.com As if this wasn’t enough the girls are training for a half marathon on October for MIND charity (alongside being official ambassadors for the charity) and Lisa has just returned from being the main reporter on the 5 day ‘Tall Ship Voyage’ that will bought the Olympic Torch into Dover in front of 30,000 people.?It was another week of eye-catching fashion moments. Gabrielle Union tops our list in a black-and-silver printed Bill Blass dress she wore to a screening of “Being Mary Jane” in New York City Thursday night. Not only do we love the abstract print, but the neck-to-navel keyhole detail is super sassy. The 2012 New Yorkers For Children Fall Gala took place Tuesday night, with model Selita Ebanks, Jessica White and "American Boy" singer Estelle in attendance--just to name a few. Ebanks wore a showstopping Jovani gown with a plunging neckline and chic cutout detailing along the shoulders. Oh, and we can't forget the design feature du jour---.Across the pond, Corinne Bailey Rae was spotted sitting front row at the Spring 2013 Osman show at London Fashion Week. The songstress wore an adorable head-to-toe pea green-hued ensemble. Monochromatic looks aren't the easiest to pull off, but Corrine passed with flying colors. Here's a look at those stunning gals and more of the week's style standouts in the slideshow below. ?As thrifty fashion lovers, we're big fans of jumping in the car and hightailing it to outlet malls, which are usually tucked in faraway suburban highway exits and tantalize us with hours of budget name-brand shopping.And we'll soon have another: Tom Ford Outlet, the first EVER in the world, is , that enclave of designer outlets located about an hour north of New York City.Tom Ford has a reputation for being elusive with his designs, as in, holding and . Maybe his new store will require you to check bags before you scoop up a $20 $200 tee?And it gets better, New Yorkers: Reed Krakoff is this summer.Ford's outlet, which is set to open on July 15, will join the other posh designer outlet stores at Woodbury, which Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, D&G, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Prada, YSL and others.We're excited! Check out the video of Ford's fall 2012 collection below to get a sneak peek of what you might be able to score at his outlet shop.WATCH: ?Shia LaBeouf will not be returning for according to his co-star Josh Duhamel.The actor played Sam Witwicky in the first three movies and there has already been speculation about whether he would reprise the role for a fourth time, after he suggested he was "done" with the action-packed franchise.And now Josh has told E! News that Shia would not be in the flick, and it doesn't look like he will be reprising his own role of Captain William Lennox either.He said: "I don't think anybody's doing it. I know Shia's not doing it. I don't think Tyrese or Rosie [Huntington-Whiteley] or anybody else is doing it."He continued: "Whenever these movies make that much money they're going to make as many as they can. [But] I haven't heard anything about it. They haven't called me."Earlier this month it was revealed that "Steven Spielberg and I are working on a whole new re-imagining of Transformers, the fourth instalment. We have been working on the idea for a few months. I'm excited about where it's headed," he said on his official website.Producer Lorenzo di Bonaventura had already hinted that the franchise may be starting afresh."I think we really are going to do a reboot there. What that's going to be, we don't even know yet. We've got to get a story first," he told MTV.Also on HuffPost: ?I'm not a cat calendar kind of girl (yet) so thankfully there's a whole ton of really cool, quirky or downright kitsch cat-related stuff around right now from high end designers to the High Street in fashion, footwear and all manner of other home and lifestyle accessories too.?A primary school worker in his 30s and a student are amongst those who have already pleaded guilty to looting and rioting in courts on Wednesday.31-year-old Alexis Bailey from Battersea in South London pleaded guilty to burglary after being arrested in Croydon. He will be sentenced at a later date and was granted bail, but with a curfew.Defendants scheduled to appear today are from a number of backgrounds and up to 40 years old.David Cameron said earlier 160 people had been charged with rioting related offences and courts were working through the night to process them.The prime minister said: “As I speak, sentences are already being passed, courts sat through the night last night, and will do again tonight. It is for the courts to sentence, but I would expect anyone convicted of violent disorder to be sent to prison.”Despite the promise, some pleading guilty to rioting are already being let off with fines. David Attoh was told by chief of magistrates Melvyn Marks not to get into trouble again and fined ￡150: “You have a bright future ahead of you, if you get into trouble again you are going to jeopardise that future.”The 18 year old student pleaded guilty to stealing two Burberry shirts in Hackney on Sunday evening. ?Rosie Huntington-Whiteley had temperatures soaring when she hit Macy's in New York last night, to celebrate the launch of the new Burberry fragrance. The model-actress...?Extremist Symbolism in Fashion - a Cultural Statement or Unacceptable? You Decide...Again, Nazi associated imagery is permeating into mainstream fashion, only this time it is not the swastika which has somehow made its way into the popular fashion world (a symbol with many different cultural and religious meanings), it is a symbol more specifically associated with the Nazi Party than the swastika, the Parteiadler - The Nazi Party eagle.?UPDATE 9/6 @2:00pm: Jill Scott has taken to Twitter to refute the reporting conducted by TheYBF.com. The singer tweeted three messages last night stating that she in fact worked closely with Essence on the October cover shoot and that the only "coup" was having natural hair on the cover--not any discourse while producing it.In addition, a PR rep for Essence issued the following statement to The Huffington Post: Essence invited Jill to showcase her natural hair on the cover of the October issue and Jill was excited to do so. Here's a look at Jill's tweet about the situation (note: It appears the tweets have since been deleted from Jill's timeline). @ @ ok. U kinda got that right. I didn't stage a coup. It was a coup for Essence to have natural hair on the cover.? Jill Scott (@missjillscott) @ @ Essence Magazine and I completely worked together on this shoot. Yes it was important 4 me 2 b natural.? Jill Scott (@missjillscott) @ @ I needed my son to see mommy like he does at home. I wanted 2 show him that Mommy likes herself. Bravo Essence!? Jill Scott (@missjillscott) PREVIOUSLY: and Viola Davis aren't the only stars ready, willing and able to show off their natural hair to the world. Grammy award-winning singer Jill Scott is proudly rocking her TWA (teeny weeny afro) on the cover of the . In fact, for the feature. She told TheYBF.com that she "staged sort of a coup" by giving the glossy an ultimatum: either she shoots the cover with her natural hair or she doesn't shoot it at all. Way to pull the diva card for a fabulous cause, Jill! The result, a perfectly polished and gorgeous cover to add to her collection. In the October issue, the "Golden" songstress opens up about her hair and how much fun she has expressing herself through different styles. “This is the simplest form of myself. I look in the mirror and it’s like, ‘Hey, there you go. What’s up, girl?’ For me, hair is an accoutrement. Hair is jewelry. It’s an accessory. Tomorrow I may want a wig down to my butt and I’m gonna rock it, and the next day I may want a big Afro and I’m gonna rock that too…”We love her confidence and we totally adore this cover look. What do you think? ?NEW YORK — Investors spent Tuesday preparing for two events sure to move markets this week: a Federal Reserve meeting and a court decision on whether Germany can help support its struggling neighbors. And if the stock market's gains Tuesday are any sign, they expect both events to turn out well.The Dow Jones industrial average rose 69.07 points to close at 13,323.36. The average of 30 large company stocks has already gained 1.8 percent to start September, a month which is usually dismal for stocks.Bank of America led the 30 stocks in the Dow, rising 5 percent, or 45 cents, to $9.03.Federal Reserve officials will gather for a two-day meeting on Wednesday. Many expect the Fed will announce a new effort to revive the sluggish economy Thursday afternoon.On the same day the Fed starts its meeting, Germany's high court is expected to rule on whether the country can participate in a European bailout fund. The court rejected a last-minute appeal to delay the decision on Tuesday."It's going to get interesting this week," said Randy Frederick, managing director of active trading and derivatives at the brokerage Charles Schwab.Frederick expects the Fed will make some sort of move, especially after the government reported last Friday that employers added fewer than 100,000 jobs in August."Prior to the employment report people weren't as sure," Frederick said. "I am definitely on the majority side here. There's some sort of easing coming."In other trading, the Standard & Poor's 500 index rose 4.48 points to 1,433.56. The Nasdaq composite increased 0.51 of a point to 3,104.53.The assumption that the Fed will announce new stimulus measures is so widespread that some worry the market could take a plunge if the Fed fails to deliver.Ron Florance, managing director of investment strategy at Wells Fargo Private Bank in Scottsdale, Ariz., said he's always wary when stocks rise on nothing more than expectations."These are the things that make you nervous, when markets are going strong in anticipation of news," Florance said.On Tuesday, the Commerce Department reported that exports to Europe dropped 11.7 percent in July, stoking concerns that Europe's troubles could smother the U.S. recovery. Overall U.S. exports fell 1 percent to $183.3 billion, lowered by weaker sales of autos, telecom equipment and heavy machinery.Morgan Stanley and Citigroup rose after the two banks settled a dispute over how much to value their jointly owned brokerage firm, Morgan Stanley Smith Barney. The deal cleared the way for Morgan Stanley to buy Citigroup's stake. Citi gained 83 cents to $32.66. Morgan Stanley rose 64 cents to $17.25.A profit warning from luxury clothing chain Burberry helped tug down other high-end retailers in early trading. Burberry said slowing sales to China will likely weaken earnings. Ralph Lauren lost $4.09 to $156.22. Tiffany & Co. sank 78 cents to $62.26.Among other stocks making moves:_ Legg Mason jumped 5 percent following reports that its CEO will step down Oct. 1. Clients have been pulling money out of the money manager's funds, weakening revenue. Legg Mason's stock surged $1.38 to $26.85._ Hewlett-Packard gained 52 cents to $17.95, a 3 percent gain. The computer and printer maker said late Monday that it will cut 29,000 jobs by October 2014, or 2,000 more than it had previously planned. Sales of personal computers have slumped as people favor smartphones and lightweight tablet computers.___AP Business Writer Christina Rexrode contributed to this story.?Usually this time of year I'm running around London Fashion Week rushing from show to show and no matter what shoes I wear I end up with my feet punishing me in some way. So this season I decided on something slightly different. I decided to stay at home and see what brands were doing to promote their new collections via the internet and digital media.?British actor Jeremy Irvine refuses to sign up for social networking sites because he is convinced connecting with fans on the Internet would shatter his acting "credibility".The War Horse star has no plans to start airing his thoughts on the web, and is baffled by actors who regularly update their online pages.He tells Marie Claire magazine, "If you know too much about an actor's personal life, they lose all credibility when they try to portray a role."Irvine also avoids looking up articles about himself on the Internet after his mother discovered a gay discussion page dedicated to the star.He explains, "She emailed over a link to some gay forum about me. I was like, 'Mum, don't send me this stuff'. I've never Googled myself. I'd be terrified."Also on HuffPost:?'s resident womaniser is doing little to dispel rumours he is dating model .Not only did Harry turn up to support her as she took to the catwalk at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week yesterday, he was full on gushing to reporters about how "amazing" she looked. He was even caught locking lips with the model on camera!Harry had taken up a plum seat on the f-row alongside Dita Von Teese, Dev Patel and Victoria Pendleton and when quizzed by ITN about Cara's catwalk appearance after the show, Harry smirked: "She was great, she did a great job. She looked amazing."And then, if that wasn't enough to convince us he is totally rubbing belly buttons with her, he was caught congratulating Cara on camera, which involved a cheeky kiss. It comes just days after Cara refused to comment on Harry when pressed by reporters. Asked what was going on between her and the One Directioner, she said: "I've heard this thing. I don't know, I'm not going to answer that question. I like to keep my private life private and that's all I'm going to say."Guess the cat's out of the bag now, Cara. > IN PICS: ONE DIRECTION'S ROAD TO WORLD DOMINATION ? Burberry Prorsum sent killer coats down the runway for Fall 2011 RTW with heavy duty repetitive buckles. Try mixing the buckle trend into something other than a coat with a DIY kilt made from a wool scarf and three buckles. I love the drapey but structured look of the wrapped scarf with the hardware. It’s pretty easy to complete and the finished product is chic and looks anything but homemade. I can’t wait to wear this with some nubby tights, black combat boots and a fisherman’s sweater!Follow the easy steps in the photos below to create a fun piece you'll wear all winter long! : ?Forget Fashion Week -- it's Wool Week in London, , with sheep even taking to the streets to celebrate the natural fiber. The event is part of the Campaign for Wool, spearheaded by Prince Charles and engaging more than 80 labels like Burberry, Pringle and Paul Smith.So what does Wool Week entail? Via WWD:On Monday, Savile Row was transformed into a meadow where sheep -- their wool dyed in brightly colored plaid patterns -- grazed, while many of the tailors opened their doors and archives to the public. The previous day, 15 yellow-dyed sheep gathered outside Selfridges to make their point about the importance of giving fleece a chance. Selfridges department store is hosting a series of in-store events including, "its first graffiti knitting event alongside its very own knitted house. Pedlars will also showcase its scarf on a roll -- designed using 100% Scottish wool -- on the lower ground floor of the store in support of Wool Week," . The store also held a Wool Week party with Prince Charles addressing the crowd via video. He remarked, "A couple of years ago I was shocked to discover that it often costs more the shear a sheep than a farmer would be paid for its wool," .Check out pictures of the sheep on Monday and scroll down to keep reading. (We don't see any plaid sheep...but there were some really cute dogs in clothes watching.) from its website:The Campaign for Wool is a cross-industry initiative convened by HRH The Prince of Wales in January 2010. As a serious environmentalist, the Prince believes the natural, sustainable origin and highly technical structure of wool can offer fashion, interiors and the built environment many superior benefits. Choosing real wool - as the Prince understands - will also help to care for our planet. ?We've all seen singers catapulted into the spotlight once they've been discovered on YouTube. Who could forget Stratford, Ont. native Justin Bieber? In 2007, the then 12-year-old posted videos of himself -- to name a few. A year later, Bieber was signed by Usher and the rest is, well, history.But what about all the other YouTube personalities? Don't they get recognition, too? We're going to take a look specifically at makeup and style gurus. Whether you want to try a pull off a smoky cat-eye look for your birthday or learn how to -- yes, it's possible and apparently super easy -- there are a few people on the Internet we keep turning to for beauty answers.Here are some of our favs. ?So usually this time of year I'm running around London Fashion Week rushing from show to show and no matter what shoes I wear I end up with my feet punishing me in some way. So this season I decided on something slightly different. As much as it pained me, I decided to stay at home and see what brands were doing to promote their new collections via the internet and digital media.The British Fashion Council went into partnership with streaming media provider Rightster a number of years back. The partnership provides live streaming from London Fashion Week and this year was no different, with a large number of leading brands including Burberry, Mulberry and Vivienne Westwood all streaming their catwalk shows via the London Fashion Week website. I've used the LFW streaming service in the past but this year I noticed for the first time the LFW official streams were supported by mobile devices and in particular Apple mobile devices. This meant I was able to view the catwalk shows whilst on the move. I even managed to use the Airplay feature on my iPad to stream the shows directly to my TV. I thought this was brilliant! I was able to watch the shows, eat Maltesers and tweet my thoughts easily at the same time. I even watched a few of the early morning shows from comfort of my bed.The official streams covered a large number of shows but some brands decided to stream their shows via their own websites. This is where a site by the name of was extremely useful. CatwalkLive.tv provides a complete list of live streams for the key fashion shows across the world. The website is incredibly simple to use and even provides direct links to the live streams. It really couldn't be any easier! The site allowed me to plan my days based on the collections I wanted to see, and as I follow CatwalkLive.tv on twitter they also tweeted reminders of shows that were about to start.A number of the larger brands added some really unique twists to their streaming media experience. For example Burberry, who I've always considered a leader when it comes to using digital and social media, provided the ability to create a custom invites and had a personal message from Christopher Bailey about the upcoming show.Henry Holland showed his latest House of Holland collection live via his website and also teamed up with ebay allowing customers to easily order using their ebay accounts.The shining star for me though had to be Topshop Unique, their live streaming provided the ability for viewers to take snapshots of the live show and post them directly to their Facebook page or Twitter feed, furthermore it was possible to purchase items directly from the collection on the same page as the live stream. A superb customer experience that left me feeling truly connected with the Topshop brand.There were unfortunately a few leading brands that decided not to provide live streams including one of my favorite brands, Matthew Williamson. I hope that next year they will invite more of us into their shows by providing live streams. Overall I did miss the live experience of actually being at London Fashion Week and will be heading up for the next season for sure. That said, for those not fortunate enough to attend the shows in person, the streaming media alternative is certainly a good alternative.I'm really interested to hear what your experiences of watching any streams was and whether there was a brand that you thought provided an excellent experience or perhaps even one that didn't? Please feel free to share by commenting below.Zoe. x Follow Zoe Yates on Twitter:?Featured in titles such as Marie Claire and listed in the top 10 to follow for London Fashion Week by Fashion Telegraph; Zoe shares her passion for fashion via Twitter, Facebook and . When she's not writing, Zoe can often be found running on the streets of her home town, researching the latest trends or on the hunt for chocolate (her other love). Zoe also assists a number of emerging fashion designers to help them create and maintain digital marketing activities through websites and other online media.?Her marriage is wonderful, she's given up alcohol and from tomorrow she's hosting the nightly 'Strictly' spin-off show 'It Takes Two'?It's worth doing, this brain reboot, because otherwise you might think you'd gone to bed in the Noughties and woken up in the Seventies ? the 1870s, even. A cabinet full of Old Etonians; a Royal Wedding that people seemed to care about; a TV series about the noble bond between Edwardian servants and their masters; Barbours everywhere, aristo models, elbow patches, cords. Margaret Thatcher as style icon, Kate Middleton as role model, Samantha Cameron wearing Christopher Kane; in short, Tories that people actually want to be like."It speaks volumes about our profoundly unequal society," says Owen Jones, author of Chavs: the Demonisation of the Working Class, "and of the worshipping of wealth that has developed over the past 30 years. The lifestyles of the rich and privileged are celebrated by the media, and there's no pressure to downplay your roots. People aren't embarrassed about wealth any more, they're openly proud of it."So much is obvious in the conspicuous consumption inherent in latterday label culture and the status of the It bag. But what is surprising is the rise in popularity of a very specific sort of aesthetic: not the Eurotrash bling of the late Nineties, which unashamedly proclaimed the wearer's affluence in a rather more democratic way, nor the hyper-luxurious but consciously minimal 'stealth wealth' that we saw in the seasons immediately following the credit crunch. No, it's unalloyed, wellies and waistcoat, jolly hockey sticks posh, stalking high streets and catwalks alike as if it were beating for grouse. Posh posh posh. There's simply no other word for it.Not since Footlights College beat Scumbag College in The Young Ones has it been socially acceptable to out yourself as one of the upper classes, nor to speak or dress like one of them either. Of course, these people have always existed, but for the past decade, they have flattened their vowels and understood they'd never exactly be at the cutting edge of cool.But these days we queue in our droves to pick up whatever Kate Middleton has last been seen in; we crash websites in our desperation to emulate her high-street take on patrician chic. We were once a nation of enfants terribles, with the Gallaghers at Downing Street and Alexander McQueen staging unsettling shows in dingy warehouses. Nowadays, Noel is telling the Daily Mail that we had it good under Thatcher, and McQueen's successor has designed the princess's wedding dress. And the Conservative PM's wife, an aristocrat in her own right, is an ambassador for the British Fashion Council."It's a fabulous time to be posh," admits Kate Reardon, editor of Tatler. "We've got an Old Etonian Prime Minister, Kate and William are dignified and discreet, in tune with the times, and the most successful companies are those that deal in luxury goods. Burberry's sales are up and their ads are full of posh people."Indeed, Burberry's line-ups of the likes of Otis Ferry, Eddie Redmayne, Emma Watson and Cara Delevigne ? public school totty each one ? have had the desired effect of hyping the posh look overseas, too. The label announced a 21 per cent growth in final quarter sales last month, thanks to Asian tourists buying into this most traditional of heritage labels. Meanwhile, the scramble to track down and own pieces worn by the Duchess of Cambridge has generated an estimated ￡1 billion for the economy, in what is being called 'the Kate effect', and Downton Abbey has gone down a storm with American audiences, further propagating posh as our most resonant national characteristic. It recalls the original brand of posh cool, personified by the louche stylings of the Duke of Windsor and the debutante glamour of Princess Margaret."British elegance is effortless and traditional," says Emma Hill, creative director of Mulberry, whose autumn 2011 collection played out on a catwalk surrounded by foliage, and was inspired by some of the more socially rarefied pursuits of the Great British Outdoors."Le Style Anglais became popular during the 1970s; it was en vogue to imitate the 'hunting, shooting, fishing' vibe of classic English fashion. It was the uniform of the country brought to town. English women are defined by these heritage influences and classics, and nowadays mix them with amazing street style."There's a certain tribe ? one that includes the likes of Alexa Chung, as well as models Alice Dellal and Daisy Lowe ? whose indie influences have exerted pressure on the posh trope and turned it into streetwear. Floral tea dresses and sailor shifts worn with brogues and loafers, Barbours and tweed worn with denim, and battered leather satchels and briefcases that look like they may have accompanied their owners to prep school: all have helped re-appropriate and re-circulate the sartorial ticks of the upper echelons, thereby rehabilitating them for the rest of us plebs.And this has kicked off something of a wider trend ? one need only look at the international catwalks. For autumn 2008, D&G dressed models in knitwear, tartan and headscarves tied under the chin in imitation of our own Queen Elizabeth II. This season, meanwhile, saddle bags come courtesy of Gucci, Jerome Dreyfuss and Proenza Schouler, while Pierre Hardy's riding-whip necklaces for Hermes have a waiting list, even though they cost upwards of ￡570,000. Labels such as Issa, Temperley and Jenny Packham have all boomed under the patronage of the Middleton sisters. The motifs of the upper-class lifestyle have become fashion staples in themselves, but not until recently have we seen such a wholesale ? and, more importantly, entirely unironic ? return to them."When times are tough, you turn to what you know," says Peter York, author of The Sloane Ranger Handbook, which is being re-released digitally this year, 30 years after its publication. "You look for things that are secure and unrisky. You rediscover the joy of a Barbour."There's certainly something to be said for picking up design classics that are durable and timeless during a moment of financial misery, but you need only look at the many proliferating street-style blogs to see that it goes beyond this, that the uniform of the hipster nowadays was once that of the upper classes. Quilted jackets in country estate green; coloured cords worn with deck shoes; chambray shirts given a modern makeover with yoke patches and elbow pads.Several revivals in recent years ? the Eighties, minimalism, grunge ? have been linked to the current socio-economic outlook ("We're so wealthy we've lost all sense of what is tasteful"; "Uh oh, we're now a bit embarrassed about our wealth"; "We'd better dress the way we did the last time things got rocky" respectively), and the posh trend is a continuation of this. We've moved from an era when the haves and have-nots had blended, thanks to credit cards and sub-prime mortgages. Nowadays, we have debt, unemployment and corduroy trousers to tell them apart."It's stupid to say that there's any comfort to be had in 'knowing your place'," adds Kate Reardon, "but there is a sense of reassuring escapism to something like Downton Abbey. There's a perceived romance and elegance that is wonderful to lose yourself in.""Pop culture has conquered all before it," says Owen Jones, "and it has become more democratic. An aristocrat and someone on a council estate might both watch The X Factor, and you wouldn't have heard regional accents on the BBC 30 years ago. So while leisure interests have embraced all classes, there has been a comeback of the trappings of privilege, of being posh and proud."But before you go round shouting about it, be warned: the look also rests on a certain modesty and sense of "Who, me?". It's the sort of self-effacingly confident humility that can only be learnt at the feet of Tiggy Legge-Bourke, or in the country's most exclusive schools. You can buy the Barbour and encourage the luxuriant growth of thick, shiny hair, but you can't imitate the breeding. And that is precisely the point."It's not about being posh," says Sophia Beddow, social editor at Hello!. "It's about having class. Before, what defined being 'posh' was pedigree ? it was all about where you came from. But the boundaries have changed: you only have to look at Kate Middleton and the way her family carried themselves throughout the Royal Wedding to see that."In this way, the toff trend can be seen as a reaction against the ubiquity of the perma-tanned, partially-clothed, bandage-dress sort of celeb ? you might not like Kate Middleton's style (as indeed designer Vivienne Westwood does not, calling her "ordinary" in an interview last year) but at least she's always tastefully covered up."After a succession of trashy It girls who we derided for being posh, at the moment we have good posh role models," says Kate Reardon. "If Kate and William were morons, falling out of nightclubs, perhaps we'd feel differently. Flashy bankers are the most unpopular people on the planet right now; a bit of modest 'noblesse oblige' is more acceptable."Perhaps we do have a grudging admiration for a lost race of people who dispense with their wealth in understated ways. In 1981, Margaret Thatcher paid for her own ￡19 ironing board at Downing Street, we are told, while latterday MPs learnt how to 'flip' their houses to wring as much from their expenses as possible. There's certainly a zeitgeist for that sort of austerity, but the spectre of Margaret Thatcher abides right now, not least because of public sector strikes and government cuts so deep that Whitehall will run with blood, but because The Iron Lady seems to have rebirthed her as a fashion icon. Anya Hindmarch, handbag-maker to most of west London, even arrayed her Bond Street store with effigies of the former leader when the film was released, in celebration of her boxy suits and redoubtable handbags."The cleverest thing about Thatcher's image was that her clothes never detracted from her character," Hindmarch explained when the display was unveiled. "That was quite a feat, I suspect, to look good and still not be talked about for your clothes."What was perhaps more of a feat was that these Maggie mannequins remained undisturbed and Hindmarch's gleaming vitrines survived unegged, but that's the difference in attitudes towards 'posh' these days. It is no longer something to resent or be embarrassed by, so much as something we all aspire to and ? thanks to a schismatic sense of social mobility ? believe is within our grasp. Being posh has become a way of demonstrating our tenacity and mettle during these difficult times. And that is why we stomach upper-class spokespeople in positions of power claiming that we're 'all in it together', and why it is no longer red rag to a bull to suggest that Thatcher did some good.There is a difference, too, in the attitudes of the next generation, who remain less inflamed than their forebears when it comes to political protest. There have been murmurings of classism during the recent student protests, but the summer riots were proof enough that aspiration is rife ? and of the crushing scorn of the wealthy in their wake: credentials nowadays are not so much about acquisition as they are about etiquette."There are plenty of girls out there who are well-bred, but do they have class," asks Sophia Beddow. "You only have to watch an episode of Made in Chelsea to know the answer to that. Victoria Beckham is another case in point ? 'Posh' may have been her moniker in her early days as a Spice Girl, but today no one can dispute the fact she is one classy lady.""There's a difference between being posh and being rich," agrees Tatler's Kate Reardon. "Posh is a way of living that can often be quite miserly and not about money. It was excruciating being posh under Tony Blair; posh people were fantastically unpopular. But these things are a reaction against what has come before. And, as with all trends, it's always darkest before the dawn."Status update: How we woreTHENPosh SpiceBursting into the 'spice-o-sphere' in 1997 with their single "Wannabe", the Spice Girls were as brassy as they were brash... and everyone loved them for it.Kate MossThe uber-model of the Nineties was Croydon born and bred, but that didn't stop her penetrating Paris's most exclusive ateliers.Cherie BoothThe First Lady of New Labour was raised in Lancashire by her mother after her father, the actor Tony Booth, left his family. She became a QC in 1995 and once stood for election as a Labour MP.Denim jacketsWorn by all self-respecting followers of fashion, whether a faded punk version, a citified indigo number or sheepskin-lined a la Liam Gallagher.D:ReamOne-hit wonders D:Ream found their career invigorated once more when Tony Blair's campaign managers chose "Things Can Only Get Better" as the soundtrack to the landslide election win in 1997.LabourThe only party to see and be seen voting for: New Labour commandeered the affections of rock stars and pensioners alike ? this was 'Cool Britannia'.NOWVictoria BeckhamShaking off the 'posh' nickname, ditching the hair extensions, fake tans and breast implants, the ex-Spice Girl has recreated herself as a fashion designer.Kate MiddletonMiddleton is the middle-class girl made good, snaring Prince William after chasing him up to university in St Andrews.Samantha CameronDaughter of Sir Reginald Adrian Berkeley Sheffield, 8th Baronet, 'Sam Cam' grew up in a stately home in Yorkshire. The PM's wife is also creative director of luxury stationers Smythson and an ambassador of the British Fashion Council.Shooting jacketsQuilted for warmth and patched for pressure on elbows for grouse season, the archetypal country-set style is being worn beyond the Glorious 12th.Brian CoxD:Ream's keyboard player Brian Cox became the cool face of particle physics, with a series on the BBC explaining natural phenomena.ConservativeWe now have a Tory government that is doing quite well in the polls. Cameron's aristo background ? and those of most of his cabinet ? are seemingly no turn-off.?But while the adopted Englishman may be right that the tea table remains a place of decorum, we Brits are once again going crazy for afternoon tea. Bettys Tea Rooms are a Yorkshire institution. Over the years, the venues have become almost as famous for their long queues as for their fancies. So much so that recently in its Harrogate and York branches, it has introduced a reservation system for teas to cope with booming demand."We have definitely experienced a significant growth in people coming to take afternoon tea over the last five years," says Paula Kaye, a manager at Bettys. "The customers are really diverse, not just older generations, also younger generations or groups of friends choosing it over, say, a day at the spa, and [they] see the venues as a nice place to meet socially."At York and Harrogate, where guests sit in the Imperial Room and enjoy striking views, guests can now book for afternoon tea. It has also followed the trend in moving beyond the simple formula of scone, sandwich and a slurp of tea."Over the last couple of years, there has been a growth in popularity from people wanting the experience," Kaye adds. "We have worked on that in the last year to develop the total experience for the visitor."Bettys isn't alone in enhancing the tea experience, with an increasing number of venues offering eye-catching teatime menus. Later this month, Japanese restaurant Nobu Berkeley in London's Mayfair is launching its own version of the British staple, serving up such delights as savoury beef and shrimp takoyaki, dorayaki (Japanese pancakes) and doughnuts filled with yuzu curd. The Langham Hotel in Westminster has a tea sommelier, while at the constantly evolving Parlour at Sketch restaurant on Conduit Street guests eat with mismatching crockery and from unusual three-tiered cake stands.For the fashion-conscious, the Berkeley hotel, also in London, serves a Pret-a-Portea, where the cakes and treats are shaped like catwalk creations from designers such as Burberry, Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana.The Connaught Hotel's menu from two-Michelin-starred chef Helene Darroze features 30 different types of jam. The Sanderson has the Mad Hatter's Afternoon Tea, which tempts guests with playful dishes such as strawberry-and-cream mousse and a portion of passion fruit jelly, coconut panna cotta and exotic foam.While hotels and restaurants are having more fun in their creative approaches to the afternoon meal, it is an important source of revenue for the venues too. Prices are sometimes high, and in many places you are compelled to order the set menu.To enjoy the award-winning Claridge's tea, it costs ￡38 per person; at the Ritz (which has seven sittings per day), afternoon tea is ￡42 per person, rising to ￡53 for the "celebration tea". Of course, these prices all go up if you add champagne. Last year, the Cliveden hotel in Berkshire was offering what it said was the world's most expensive afternoon tea, at ￡550 a person. For that you got white truffles, caviar and Chinese tea that costs ￡2,000 a kilo. Celebrated venues such as Peacocks in Ely are more reasonable, with "the full monty tea" setting you back ￡16. Tea and cake at London's trendy Riding House Cafe is from ￡5.Irene Gorman, the head of the Tea Guild, says the quality and demands have changed. It is no longer just friends meeting for tea, it has also become a time for business meetings. She also points out that it often offers a cheaper alternative to a night out, besides the fact that you might not fancy dinner after several sandwiches, scones and cakes in the middle of the afternoon."You know what it's going to cost you beforehand, so the choice is yours before you go," she says. "Unlike dinner, you don't have to wonder how much you're going to spend on wine. You want to be out, in nice surroundings. And it's still a great way of enjoying yourself."The Tea Guild (tea.co.uk) offers membership to venues offering tea across the country. The criteria and examination process to join are strict and each year it inspects its members and gives a detailed report back to help to maintain quality. It also presents awards each year, those for excellence being like a Michelin star, while the top prizes, it says, are " the Oscars" of tea. Last year, Claridge's hotel won its top London award, while the Rocke Cottage Tea Rooms in Shropshire was "Top Tea Place".Its drive for quality is mirrored by campaigners from Devon, who are appealing to the EU to bestow the Devon cream tea with Protected Designation of Origin status. One of its stated aims is to stop inferior-quality copies."Afternoon tea never went away," Gorman says. "What is going away, however, is people not doing it very well. Certainly over the last 10 years it has got better. It's no longer seen as something you take your old auntie to."People have very high expectations of it. It's the one meal you'll not forget if it's not good. We've become more sophisticated in our palates."?I have nothing against Wags per se. I rather admire them, with their glorious gusto for celebrity and conspicuous consumption and living the dream and over-sized sunglasses, but it is also a deadening prospect. What do I know about over-sized sunglasses? Or St Tropez tans or hair extensions or fake nails or, of course, posing for OK! with a certain vacant perfection? (I did once try a certain vacant perfection, it's true, but it made me dizzy and gave me dry elbows so, alas, I had to cancel the OK! photo-shoot.)This Wag is Abbey Clancy, TV presenter, model, spokesperson for Lynx Attract For Her, the first Lynx fragrance for women ? "it's young and flowery and really, really nice," she says, with a straight face ? and wife of England and Stoke footballer Peter Crouch, described by my son as "the very, very tall spindly one who did that robot dance," as if this is going to help me place him. Still, I do ask Abbey if the very, very tall spindly one ever does a robot dance for her own private enjoyment, when she's been good, say, and made the beds and taken the rubbish out? "No!" she exclaims with horror. You're not a fan of the robot dance? "It's bizarre!"She is very warm and rather fun, actually, and although we have a few sticky moments ? she doesn't much enjoy talking about tabloid newspaper revelations, predictably ? I have some fun myself. We have a splendid lunch. We go mad on credit cards in a designer childrenswear shop. I invite myself to her daughter, Sophia's, upcoming first birthday party, once I learn a mini-farm will be coming to their house. "With piglets you can pet and everything?" I query excitedly. "And a little horse," she says. I'm on it, I tell her, and feel significantly cheered.Anyway, she meets me as I come out of Macclesfield station, drawing up in one of those tank-sized Range Rovers. She is 25, and disappointingly non-blingy, dressed simply in black T-shirt, black skinny jeans and mid-heeled Kurt Geiger courts. She is 5ft 9ins, with legs going up to her armpits ? although not literally, as that would be freakishly hideous ? and is certainly gorgeous, with huge, amazingly green eyes and a distinctly non-orange complexion. It is creamy, if anything.And your beauty regime, madam? "Just baby wipes and Nivea." Are you sure, I ask, you don't want to name-drop Creme de la Mer, so they'll send us a big box of free stuff? "Nivea," she repeats. Drat. Still, I climb into the car. She is, I quickly discover, a considerate road user if you don't count the instances when she harasses slower drivers with "Come on, you soft shite", which are many.I'd wanted to visit her at home ? she lives in nearby Alderley Edge, naturally ? for a good snoop, but she wouldn't have it. Her house is rented and doesn't have a good vibe or feel like home, she says. But does it have a swimming pool, I enquire. It does, she says. "I don't use it but Pete takes the baby in every day and she absolutely loves it and me mum's dogs go in, too." What sort of dogs does your mum have? Morkies, she says. Morkie? A cross between Maltese and Yorkie, she explains. I say I'm planning to buy a Shiatsu crossed with a Poodle if only so I can tell everybody: "I'm having a Shit-Poo". We laugh until the next slow driver comes along, who is also a "soft shite".She is originally from Liverpool, and is still very Liverpool, saying "me" for "my" ? "I love to read and I love Martina Cole. She's me favourite" ? and "cewk" for "cook" and "bewk"' for "book". It can lead to some confusion. Last night, she says, she got a terrible fright when a mouse got into the house and crawled all over "me Burberry tewks". Your Burberry tewks, I query? "Me Burberry tewks," she confirms. And what is this Burberry tewks you speak of, Abigail? "What's a tewks?" Yes, what is this "tewks"? "A jacket, like." A tux! A tux! "I got Pete to catch it." The tewks? "The mouse."She then hoots the horn. Another soft shite? No, Pete driving his Range Rover in the opposite direction. He'd taken their daughter to her mother's for the day, and now he should be off to training, but is going the wrong way. She calls him and puts him on speaker phone. He forgot his wash-bag, apparently, so has to speed home for it. She finishes the call with: "Love you!", to which he replies, "Love you!". Nobody, it appears, loves me, but it may just be my dry elbows. I should cream them more. (E45? Is that the best? I would use Creme de la Mer, if I had any.)She takes me to The Cheshire Smokehouse, a deli-cum-cafe where she appears to be well-known. "I haven't got the baby with me today to trash the place," she tells the waitress. "She's never any trouble," says the waitress, who is kindly as well as, possibly, long-suffering.I would say that Abbey is one of those figure-conscious women who simply push food around a plate, if it were true, but it isn't. She can well pack it in. It is a joy to behold. She has scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, two rounds of toast with cream cheese, two cappuccinos, an orange juice, and then a scone piled with jam and cream. Yet you stay skinny? "It's me genes," she says. I say a friend of mine had a baby at around the same time she did, and when she saw photos of Abbey taken a few weeks after Sophia's birth and noted her flat stomach, she burst into tears. A tummy tuck? "Absolutely not!" she says. "When I had the baby me mum said I'd go back to normal and although I didn't believe her, I just did." Did you breastfeed? She didn't, she says, "because I was in that much pain". When you tried? "No, underneath". Down below? "Yeah, and exhausted. And me mum didn't breastfeed and you do what your mum did, don't you?"I say if you were worried about your boobs, you were right to be so. I breastfed and now my boobs are like pitta breads before you've even put them under the grill and they've puffed out a bit. She says she saw a woman breastfeeding on a train the other day, and shudders. Hey, it's natural, I counter. She shudders again. This is not, I'm guessing, a world where 'natural' is rated that highly. That said, I tell her, I can't understand why men find breast implants attractive. Who wants to fondle a bag of silicone? She says, yeah, "but all they see is: boob!". She can be sharp and funny. When we later discuss wine, and I say expensive ones are wasted on me, although I like to think I can tell the difference between a ￡3.99 one and a ￡9.99 one she says, "not after two bottles you can't" which, aside from anything else, is very true.Born in Liverpool, the oldest of four, Abbey's father ran a tarmac business. I wonder if she grew up craving riches, so ask if she remembers yearning for things beyond the family's income. "Yeah," she says, "but I always got them." Like what? "It was less high-end when I was younger, more high street, more like: can I have this pair of shoes from Topshop? I'd always had quite a privileged lifestyle, to be honest. I've never wanted for anything, but I do know the value of things. I'm not, like, a brat. And I've worked since I was 15, and always got me own stuff."And what were you like at school? "Always on report, always being told off for messing about, but always top of the class." Really, I enquire, patronisingly. "I got all A-stars and one B for me GCSEs." Gosh, I exclaim, just as patronisingly. Did you work hard for them? Not really, she says.So you were a smarty-pants? Probably, she says, but she was also absolutely determined to not stay on at school. "I was already in a band and the teachers called my mum in and said: 'Abbey's so clever, it's a total waste if she follows her dream'. But I never wanted to do a job I didn't love, and I'd always wanted to be a model or an actress or a singer."If you had gone ahead to study, what might you have studied? Something well rewarded, she says. "If I had to study and work hard it would have to have the reward of a lot of cash. I'd want a nice house and a nice car and go to nice places on holiday." Is this the ultimate appeal of Wag-dom? Riches without endeavour?The band was Genie Queen, which supported Blue on tour before splitting. Next, she appeared on Britain's Next Top Model, making it through to the last few, and met Pete. How? When? "It was me friend Tommy's birthday and I was out with him and his wife, Karen, and I did fancy Pete before then." From seeing him on TV and in newspapers and the like? "Yes. And we were in this restaurant and I saw him and I was like: 'Oh my God!' and I went to the toilet and walked past him and he just started talking to me and then begged me for me number... Only joking! We swapped numbers." How long till he called? "An hour." Did you have any sense of where it would go? "Oh, yeah. I knew he'd be me boyfriend." How? "Just a feeling. I knew he was The One."And what was your first experience of being a premiership footballer's girlfriend? "When I finished Britain's Next Top Model, the day I got back, he said the England team were going to Portugal, did I want to come? I'd been away from me mum for eight weeks and I'd never left me mum's side in me life and I was like: 'Should I go or shouldn't I?'." You did go, and? "It was really strange because I was really young, 19, and at the meal in the evening Victoria Beckham was sitting there, and David Beckham, and all these players you only see on TV, and their wives, and I felt quite intimidated and that my clothes were crap." Was Posh friendly? "I didn't speak to her." Too frightened? "Yeah."She also went to Baden Baden for the 2006 World Cup but came home early when pictures of her sniffing cocaine were printed in a tabloid. This is another of our sticky moments. If you are living the dream you do not want it defiled, I suppose. How did you feel about it, I ask.A sharp intake of breath and then: "It makes it hard to trust people you thought you could trust. It's just embarrassing because it just lets people down, like me family, and then people have a certain image of you. When I'm a good person. I'm not an angel, but it was just a silly teenage thing that most teenagers in the world do. It wasn't nice."Did someone you know sell that picture? "Yes, but I don't want to go into it, because it scares me still." It is a massive betrayal, isn't it? "Definitely. I wouldn't do that to anyone. I just don't understand people's mentality. If I saw Tom Cruise sitting here, I wouldn't go over and take a picture of him then sell it to a newspaper. People seem to do that nowadays. It's just bizarre."She and Pete are among those suing News International for phone hacking. And what's the most ridiculous thing you've ever read about yourself in a tabloid, I ask. "There have been millions of things." The latest, then. "The latest is that I'm getting ￡750 cellulite treatments and I don't even have cellulite!" Absurd! "I know."We pay up and climb back into her car, where there is a bag of treacle toffees. "Want one?" Abbey, I'm stuffed! She pops one in her pretty mouth. It's my idea to stop at the childrenswear shop in chi-chi Wilmslow on the way back, as I need a baby gift. I ask Abbey if she likes shopping, shopping, shopping."Not as much as I used to," she says. Still, although the price of the one little outfit I buy makes my eyes water, she proceeds to buy up half the shop for Sophia. I'm guessing not having to think about money simply becomes normal after a while.Did Pete, I ask, cry when Sophia was born? "He cried, and me mum cried, and me sister cried." Is she fat? I love a fat baby. "She is very fat." Cellulite treatments? You're never too young. "Ha, ha!" Who gave Sophia her first-ever bath, always a nerve-wracking event? "Pete did and he held on to her arm that tight her hand went blue!"She has never allowed Sophia to appear in the press, which is wise, and she has never done any 'at home' spreads. "That way you open the door, don't you?" And your wedding wasn't Hello!-ed? "No, although it would have been very nice to have had it paid for!" And you don't use Creme de la Mer? "Nivea." Drat.Finally, she drops me back at the station ? "Come on, you soft shite!" ? which is kind, and we part amicably although, I now realise, I've yet to receive an invite proper to the mini-farm party. It's my dry elbows, I bet. They've always held me back.?Whereas Miuccia Prada's recent seasons have seen her blokes kitted out in technicolor floral bri-nylon, lurex cardigans and stack-soled wedges, this time we saw suits... and suits... and suits. Grey, black, single and double-breasted, some with natty astrakhan collars, some seemingly sans trousers (but with flapping boxers and over-the-calf City Boy socks). It was all about the suit ? but they were suits that could be worn anywhere and by just about anybody. Prada wasn't the only one proposing that men be permanently suited and booted for winter: the power of this label is in epitomising what's making fashion tick at any one moment. Hence Italian cohorts Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana proffered a parade of braid-embroidered gabardines, Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta showed sleek, single-breasted styles and Christopher Bailey at Burberry Prorsum put a new twist on the Sloane Ranger with jewel-toned corduroy and whipcord two-pieces (Mellors flat-cap optional). Even Roberto Cavalli's usually navel-gazing, flesh-flashing catwalk was buttressed with Savile Row quality tailoring, give or take the odd odd chartreuse tux.Is this really so surprising? The suit, after all, has been the linchpin of the male wardrobe for about two hundred years. What's rare is to see fashion designers embracing that conservatism with quite so much gusto.The Italians, of course, have a tailoring tradition to rival Savile Row's ? although their craftsmen dotted about Rome, Milan and Florence cannot compare with the world's only true "disguisery" (the wonderful plural noun for a group of tailors) on "The Row". But the suit reigned supreme during Paris fashion week too, Lanvin's muscular and full-shouldered, Louis Vuitton's sleek in camel and grey, and leather-bound at Stefano Pilati's final menswear show for Yves Saint Laurent (Raf Simons showed that over in Milan for his penultimate Jil Sander collection, too).So what does the suit represent in the menswear landscape of today?Power on the one hand and conservatism on the other. Mere months before The Iron Lady nabbed Meryl Streep an Oscar for her depiction of Margaret Thatcher, it feels as if this could be fashion's return to Wall Street's "Greed is good" Eighties ethos. These suits may be relatively sombre, even staid at times, but they scream "money" in a way a sweatshirt never could. A suit today can be the perfect sartorial palimpsest for rebellion; a language of dress every man understands but which can be utilised to say something revolutionary.That's the way the American designer Thom Browne has always looked at the suit, using its "rules" to fight against the conventions still evident in male fashion. Browne's suit, less skinny than shrunken, single-breasted with trousers cropped high on the ankle, has dominated male style for the past half-decade. "My goal for my collection is to be provocative and to make people think," says Browne. That's the purported aim of much flamboyant modern menswear, the difference with Browne's work being that the basis for these experiments are classic grey wool suits that could have been worn by bankers in the fifties. Turn a blind eye to the attention-grabbing "skorts", beaded kaftans and tulle puffs Browne often favours: it's the proportions of the suit that are the most controversial and interesting thing.Browne's combination of an ultra-trad base with subtly radical details finds echoes throughout menswear today. It's there in a poplin men's shirt by young London label Palmer//Harding, tucks and spiral pleats giving it a third dimension; and equally in Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz's cross-breeding of a down jacket and officer's greatcoat at Lanvin."The mix between tradition and newness is the story of this collection," said Elbaz backstage. And, for many men, raised on Casual Fridays and sportswear as everyday wear, there is a newness in the tradition of the suit, full stop.The omnipotence of the suit for autumn/winter 2012 is part of fashion's standard flash-in-the-pan seasonal volte-face, but men are universally reclaiming the classic suit as a means of dressing up for the everyday. "What we're seeing more and more of is younger customers buying into suiting," says Adam Kelly, buying manager of men's formalwear at London's Selfridges. "The look is in no way just about workwear or occasionwear any more ? I think British guys in particular just have an increasingly vested interest in looking sharp." The cold hard facts back that assertion: at Selfridges, suiting sales to date have increased 28 per cent on last year. "I look for something classic and timeless in dress," says Constantin Bjerke, the dapper founder and CEO of media website Crane.tv, who buys his suits from London's Turnbull & Asser. "A well-cut, beautifully-detailed and constructed suit will last a lifetime and always look stylish."Nick Lazarus, a treaty underwriter with Hiscox in the City, concurs that in his clothes he seeks "an emphasis on quality and not visual impact. Save the odd unfortunate incident, I have never really been one to stick my head above the parapet on account of an outlandish wardrobe".Those characteristics ? stylish, timeless, quality ? are endlessly assigned to suits, especially in the bespoke bracket. The latter is suiting at its most traditional, time-consuming and expensive ? ready-to-wear (or, as tailors often disparagingly term it, "off the rack") cannot compare to bespoke, where a pattern is drafted to a customer's individual measurements. Savile Row tailor Richard James describes the bespoke process as "indulgence... time spent considering fabric,working on style, discussing small but important details to devise a unique suit that not only fits you perfectly and makes you feel great, but is also something you helped create". Even made-to-measure is a poor substitute in the eyes of the tailoring trade. "It's not quite the same as having someone actually take a set of measurements and alterations for your figure. You can't improve on the fittings... distilling the pattern down till it actually fits," says Ritchie Charlton, managing director of Hayward of Mount Street. Charlton has been in the tailoring trade for three decades, working at high-profile establishments including Kilgour French Stanbury and the tailoring workrooms of Her Majesty's choice dressmaker, Hartnell, under former Christian Dior designer Marc Bohan in the early 1990s. In short, he knows his stuff ? today, his custom-made, four-figure suits clothe dedicated followers of style, rather than fashion, including Primal Scream's Bobby Gillespie and perennially pin-neat photographer Nick Knight. When asked about seasonal changes in bespoke, Charlton shrugs his shoulders and responds "there are seasons as far as the weather goes". But he does concede that "bespoke tailoring moves with men's fashion... a young guy who comes into the shop, generally he's going to want a neater, shorter-fitting jacket at the moment than perhaps he would have wanted in 2002."That's possibly one of the most seductive things about suiting: the subtlety."Every collection, I address different ideas of proportion," says Thom Browne, attesting that the elements that make his suits stand out are "attention to detail, the quality of the make, but most importantly the proportion". That's what proves seductive for many men and indeed for designers: using the convention of the suit to say something new; a quiet radicalism.That could be the strap-line for Savile Row's latest leap into the 21st century: a made-to-measure collaboration between H Huntsman & Sons ? a bespoke bastion of tailoring tradition ? and Alexander McQueen, another bastion, albeit of iconoclastic rebellion. Both are quintessentially British: Huntsman has been tailoring to royalty for more than 160 years and McQueen, of course, created that dress. Lee McQueen himself was also responsible for outfitting royals in rather more anti-establishment styles, legend being that he scrawled a variety of four-letter pejoratives across the canvas interlining of suits destined for the Prince of Wales whilst apprenticing at Anderson & Sheppard in the late 1980s.Sarah Burton's offerings, available from June, veer towards the traditional, with cashmere frock-coats, dinner-jackets and, fittingly enough, Prince of Wales check suiting. Albeit with breeches and embroidered lapels, the jackets cut slimmer and tighter against the body. A tongue-in-cheek twist on three all-important classics of men's suiting, they seem tailor-made for the archetypal English dandy ? probably the most compelling argument for any style-conscious gentleman when buying another perfectly-proportioned suit.?The catalogue business is setting up a ￡45 million joint venture with Chinese manufacturing giant Haier in a bid to tap into the country's buoyant economy and current spending boom. Previous openings overseas have proved unsuccessful, including pilot stores in the Netherlands opened in 1998, while five stores in India were closed in 2009. However, Argos will return to overseas expansion next year when it opens a trial store and internet delivery service in Shanghai, and ultimately aims to expand throughout the country. It will follow in the footsteps of other UK retailers who have already got a foothold in the powerhouse Asian economy, such as Tesco, Burberry, Mothercare and Marks & Spencer. In the UK, Argos's customers are being badly hit by the squeeze in living standards because they tend to have lower disposable income and, with many renting, they have not benefited from the record low interest rates. But in China, Argos hopes to tap into the booming middle classes who are spending freely as they reap the rewards of the country's rapid industrialisation. The Chinese economy is expected to carry on growing faster than the West - it recently overtook Japan as the world's second biggest economy and is set to supplant the US as the number one economy in coming decades. The new venture will draw on Argos's expertise in online retailing and Haier's distribution network in the country. Haier, which makes TVs, fridges, freezers and washing machines, is one of the world's largest white goods manufacturers. It will own 51% of the joint venture.PA?The retailer has also extended a contract with the same partner to sell its products in South-east Asia for a further six years until 2021, including in the new countries of Australia and Vietnam.However, shares in Mulberry fell by 95p, or nearly 7 per cent, to ￡13 yesterday, although they are still up by more than 44 per cent over the past year. Other luxury goods companies, such as Burberry, have seen their share prices hit in recently weeks over fears of slower spending among China's luxury consumers.Mulberry said it had agreed "heads of terms" for a new distribution agreement for Japan via a joint venture vehicle owned by Club 21 and Mammina, a subsidiary of the department store group Isetan Mitsukoshi.Under its contract extension with Club 21, the partner will open Mulberry flagship stores in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing.?Available in four shades, this light reflecting liquid can be used on bare skin or mixed with foundation which will give you an all-over luminous glow.￡22, Nars, 2. Colour Skin EnhancerUse as a primer, and while the soy proteins will moisturise, a light-trapping formula will leave your skin looking refreshed. Available in five shades.￡64.50, by Terry, 3. Lustre Drops in Pink RebelAdd a 'pearlised' sheen to your face and body by dabbing on a few drops of this water-based liquid.￡17.50 MAC, 4. Watt's Up! Soft Focus Highlighter For FaceA good place to start if you're not confident about illuminating just yet. Glide this cream-to-powder product over your cheeks and blend.￡24.50, Benefit, 5. Uplifting Liquid Illuminator, 04 BronzeWant glow, not glitter? You can achieve a sun-kissed look with only a hint of shimmer with this pump-action product. ￡20, Clinique, 6. Fresh glowUse as an all-over moisturiser for your face and decolletage, or just apply only to the areas you would like to highlight.￡34, Burberry, ?This autumn, the company that manufactured the world's first waxed cotton motorcycle jackets will open a five-storey flagship store on Bond Street. What started as motorcyclist utility garb has become the clothing must-have for A-list celebrities. The firm's new collection, to be launched next month, is inspired by its British roots ? less tailored, more baggy ? under the creative direction of Martin Cooper, who was the head of outerwear at Burberry for 16 years.Harry Slatkin, Belstaff's chief executive, told The Independent on Sunday: "The brand started in England. When it was bought by Italians [in the 1990s], it started to lose its way and lose its language. We wanted to make a firm commitment that it is back in England and that we're proud to be an English brand."Last year, Belstaff was bought by Labelux, based in Vienna. Months earlier, Labelux had bought Jimmy Choo for ￡500m. Four days later, Tommy Hilfiger became an investor and consultant. Both Slatkin, the founder of the fragrance company Slatkin & Co, and Cooper joined the company and started the move back to Britain.The firm was founded by Eli Belovitch and his son-in-law Harry Grosberg, in Longton, near Stoke, in 1924. At one time it produced more than 80,000 Trialmaster jackets a year. They were worn by bikers the world over, including the late Steve McQueen, star of The Great Escape. He started the move that helped such clothing cross the divide from niche market to mainstream appeal.The firm once provided clothing for Lawrence of Arabia ? Peter O'Toole as Lawrence died on his motorbike wearing Belstaff. Today, its clothing is a movie staple. The Malenotti family, who ran the company until last year, had as rich a history in film as in the ragtrade. Franco Malenotti, motorbike designer and champion rider with an obsession for the coats, started with Belstaff in 1986 and bought the firm when it ran into financial difficulties. His father, Maleno Malenotti, was a film producer, a contemporary of Federico Fellini who worked with Sophia Loren.Since then, Belstaff clothing has been worn in blockbusters including The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (Brad Pitt), Sweeney Todd (Johnny Depp) and Mission: Impossible III (Tom Cruise). Malenotti himself appeared in Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides, while George Clooney and Angelina Jolie regularly wear the jackets off-set. Daniel Radcliffe had a specially made "Harry Blouson", while Sherlock's tweed coat, as worn by Benedict Cumberbatch, is Belstaffian.It is not only on the big screen that the name is revered. Pope Benedict XVI wears bespoke Belstaff made from soft cotton ? with white corduroy collar and cuffs ? when walking in the Vatican gardens.Great outdoors meets the in-crowd: The utility brands that conquered the catwalkOakley: Many people adopting the Oakley swagger are unaware the brand started in the 1980s, making bikers' goggles. Jim Jinnard produced the first pairs from his garage, with ￡150 in start-up capital. He named the firm after his dog.Barbour: Founded in South Shields by John Barbour in 1894, the brand ? which was also worn by Steve McQueen and holds a royal warrant ? is now synonymous with country sports and wholesome walks.Burberry: The 19th-century brand has consistently defied gloom-mongers during the recession and has survived being adopted as a fashion accessory by football hooligans in the 1980s.Hunter: Who would have thought that 150 years after the North British Rubber Company started manufacturing, it would evolve into a wellie brand that united Kate Moss and Middle England? When David Cameron visited Washington in 2010, he took two pairs to give to the Obama children.?***Thanks to Hansard for confirming what Between the Covers thought we heard when we listened to Education Questions on Monday. (We don't just read books, you know.) Not only is the Education Secretary, Michael Gove, making primary school children learn and recite poetry ? he's also got Tory MPs doing it, too. Kevin Brennan (Labour, Cardiff West) asked: "Why is the Secretary of State having such a chilling effect on teacher morale?" Gove, inset bottom, replied: "As Robert Burns, that great poet, once said, 'facts are chiels that winna ding' ...". Next, John Haynes spoke up: "When I think of the Opposition, I am reminded of Eliot's words: 'Shape without form, shade without colour,/Paralysed force, gesture without motion.'" Finally, Gove wrapped up the debate, saying: "I must be brief because, as Shakespeare [left] said, 'Let me not to the marriage of true minds/Admit impediments'." Impressive ? let's see more poetry in Parliament, please.***Fans of Irvine Welsh should look out for the new single "Another Screen" by Kormac, on which Welsh appears on vocals. Kormac wrote the song ? a lament about our screen-focused lives ? especially for Welsh, and turned up on his doorstep to ask him to take part. "Rather than take out a restraining order," we're told, "[Welsh] took him in, fed and watered him and sent him home with the track complete." The single is available on iTunes for 99p.***Do the results of a new poll by dottybingo.com help to explain the stratospheric success of E L James's 50 Shades of Grey, or just make it even more baffling? Forty-four per cent of the 400 members surveyed said they would rather read about sex than have it, and 43 per cent said that erotic literature made their own sex lives feel boring and routine. Readers, 50 Shades is not a fly-on-the-wall documentary, you know.Finally, a special request for the publishers of Clive James's enemies. James, best known as a broadcaster, critic, commentator and novelist, is also a brilliant poet who has published nine collections. One of his more famous poems is "The Book of My Enemy Has Been Remaindered", in which he takes satisfaction in imagining monumental piles of his rival's failed book. James has told Radio 4's Meeting Myself Coming Back that he's been very ill for two years, and is "getting near the end ... I'm a man approaching his terminus". He is not there yet, but please, publishers, remainder the books of his enemies, just to give him some cheer.?According to the latest league table from BrandFinance Global 500, the value of luxury goods brands has rocketed this year with the likes of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Ralph Lauren increasing their brand values by up to 24 per cent, while supermarket brands such as Sainsbury’s and Asda have seen their brand value fall.The supermarkets woes are in stark contrast to the growth in upmarket brands ? luxury jeweller Tiffany & Co made the Global 500 for the first time with a brand value of $2.9bn while purveyor of luxury cars - Rolls-Royce ? saw a 17 per cent increase in the value of the brand. Luxury goods houses Prada and Coach re-entered the top 500 this year and Christian Dior and Burberry join Tiffany as newcomers.David Haigh, the chief executive of Brand Finance, said: “The rise to prominence of luxury and lifestyle brands in this year’s report is impressive. Whilst the world remains shrouded in economic misery, people are investing their hard earned cash in brands they rely on to produce quality and long lasting products.”As well as luxury goods, the techonology sector is the strongest contender in the brand stakes with 49 technology companies making the top 500 and Apple crowned king ? it is ranked as the world’s most valuable brand at $70.6bn.?Aside from enraging more pedantic viewers by using the wrong name for the Union Flag, Martin's moment of doubt over his team's decision to decorate pieces of furniture by painting on the national flag was symptomatic of a wider crisis in confidence in the most iconic British design feature of all.In a summer that includes the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations and the London Olympics, we are bound to see more than ever of the Union Flag, which had its birthday yesterday on the 406th anniversary of it being introduced by James I to represent the unification of the crowns of England and Scotland.Research produced this week by the brand consultancy Coley Porter Bell found that the rash of Union Flag imagery appearing on packaging was starting to irritate many consumers.More than 56 per cent of respondents to the survey said that brands that wished to highlight the "Britishness" of their product should only do so subtly. More than 25 per cent went as far as to warn that they found such patriotism distasteful.Some brands were regarded as having a right to boast of their Britishness, a list topped by British Airways and ranging from Burberry to Marmite (rebranded Ma'amite for the Jubilee, groan). Marks & Spencer appears to have assumed it scores highly with consumers in this regard, judging by its latest advertising campaign, "A Summer to Remember", showing Twiggy, Jamie Redknapp and friends cutting a cake with Union Flag icing and enjoying a jubilee garden party beneath the bunting. John Lewis has launched a "Union Jack" range of mugs, keyrings, umbrellas and tea caddies, though the kaleidoscopic colours would not be recognised by James I or any monarch since."There has been a growing groundswell of British iconography," says John Clark, planning director at Coley Porter Bell. The public might be less sympathetic towards the SEBO vacuum cleaner brand, which has launched a "Felix Royale" model in Union Flag livery for those that feel that dusting is a matter of national pride. The Government has dived in with its "Great" campaign, with more red, white and blue than John Bull's waistcoat.Since the Second World War, the British people have had a complex relationship with the Union Flag. To one generation it was a symbol of a nation's fight for survival. Their children wanted to turn it into something less serious. Pete Townshend of The Who's Union Flag blazer typified this new attitude. "He went to Savile Row to get it done, but all the tailors said it would be sacrilege so he had to go to the East End instead," says Paolo Hewitt, co-author of The A to Z of Mod, published later this month. "It wasn't being disrespectful, but saying that a new era was upon us and it was time to lighten the load of symbols like the target and the Union Jack."When Morrissey wrapped himself in a Union Flag in 1992, many of those for whom the far-right's misappropriation of the banner was too raw recoiled at the sight. And yet soon afterwards Oasis embraced the same flag with the enthusiasm The Who had shown 30 years earlier.That Britpop confidence has faded and Stella McCartney seems to have appreciated the current desire for subtlety in her designs for the Team GB kit in various shades of blue without any red. Patriots should make the most of it. With Scottish independence creeping closer, that Union Flag blue might not be about much longer.?The third day of London Fashion Week may have showcased some of the strongest home-grown players in the industry, but Dame Vivienne thinks we have much to learn. Showcasing the autumn 2012 collection of her Red Label line at London Fashion Week, the designer said the rise of disposable fashion had made people look too similar."In history people dressed much better than we do... If you saw Queen Elizabeth it would be amazing, she came from another planet. She was so attractive in what she was wearing," she said.Hardly surprising then that her collection took inspiration from more nostalgic forms of dress, from Jermyn Street stripes, Savile Row tailoring, tartan and duchesse satin to headscarves.But the designer said people were too conformist."People have never looked so ugly... We are so conformist, nobody is thinking. I'm a fashion designer and people think 'what do I know?' but I'm talking about all this disposable crap. So I'm saying buy less, choose well, make it last."London Fashion Week has a reputation for launching the careers of young stars and JW Anderson's show proved this. Only his third standalone womenswear show, this marked his arrival on the international circuit.At the other end of the scale, the Topshop Unique show offered a selection of utilitarian pieces in bonded tweed and Prince of Wales check. Boiler suits and workwear-esque dungarees were reinvented in velvet with silk sleeves, pockets and panels at the cuffs. Party dresses got the hardware treatment, with zips functioning as straps.Fedora-cum-baseball caps, as well as modish spike-heeled boots with brothel-creeper soles, were evidence of the sort of typically British eclecticism and streetwear aesthetic that has built this brand's successful reputation at home and overseas.If the shows spoke of Britain's international credentials, the front row at Mulberry was a microcosm of that. Singer Lana Del Rey was there, in honour of the fact the luxury luggage label has named a bag from their autumn collection after her. Actor Michelle Williams was there too, as well as Elizabeth Olsen, evidence of the lure of one of the UK's most lucrative names.Fashion Week continues today with shows from Burberry and Christopher Kane and a presentation from McQ, the subsidiary line from Alexander McQueen, which marks its first London presence in more than a decade.?Burberry Prorsum has been showcased in the British capital since 2008 (prior to that the show was in Milan alongside that city's big guns) and it gives London Fashion Week an ultra-glossy and unusually corporate international lift.Still, the label is quintessentially British at heart as could be seen in yesterday's procession of outerwear all of which appeared, as if by magic, beneath a shower of (man-made) rain. Blanket coats, bombers, waxed jackets and of course the label's famous trench coat, this time cut in a gabardine and tweed mix, remain the core of its business to this day.Christopher Bailey, Burberry's creative director, understands this sensibility well. More typically English references came in the form of flared riding skirts, overblown dress shirts borrowed from men, animal print T-shirts, and for the country-house soiree, fringed dresses and quilted velvet in the colour of the forthcoming autumn season: ox-blood.As well as respecting Burberry's British heritage, the powers that be at the label consistently have an eye on the future where digital innovation is concerned. The show was live-streamed on its website and looks can be ordered online for seven days meaning any customers may find themselves in possession of their autumn 2012 wardrobe almost half a year before they reach stores.Christopher Kane is a man who is known for taking the potentially stuffy cliches of the bourgeois wardrobe and twisting them slightly ? or indeed quite a lot. His collection was inspired, he said, by art photographer Joseph Szabo's portraits of American teenagers and the ambivalence of adolescence. With that in mind, here was a woman ? or in fact a girl ? who strode down the runway in leather and pinstripe, velvet and moire, all in hard as nails colours ? royal blue, true red, purple and predominantly black ? and emphatically heavy square-toed ankle boots and Mary-Jane shoes.If last season Kane invested the ubiquitous reference to mid-20th haute couture with a homespun feel, this time he darkened it to the point where it was almost gothic, and certainly mournful, in flavour. Black roses on narrow knee-length dresses were more nasty than nice; the ribbons threaded through neck-and waist-lines, similarly, came not in fluttering silks but padded black leather tied into stiff bows.The over-riding toughness in mood belied the fine quality of workmanship and loving attention to detail throughout. Fabric treatments and embellishment were both extraordinary in their complexity and innovation. This could be seen in floral jewel-encrusted embroideries and garments covered entirely in what looked like pulled threads.Chunky knit jumpers, cigarette pants and skinny leather coats only added to the impression of ferocity more than overt femininity in the stereotypical sense of the word.The day kicked off with a confident showing courtesy of the designer pairing, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos. Famed for their prints, the principal reference on this occasion was Japanese "light trucks" (literally, according to the show notes, cars covered in thousands of lights), Chinese mask make-up and overblown garden flowers ? specifically lilac, carnation and iris.This came stamped or embroidered on to everything from jeans and Puffa jackets with exaggerated collars to signature, body-conscious jersey dresses that kicked at the hem. While the hyper-technical quality of the whole might not be to everyone's taste, there was no disputing the talent on display here.?Burberry is ramping up its expansion plans after earmarking ￡200m for new stores this year as global demand for its luxury goods defies the downturn in the UK. The luxury brand, which will open in London, Brazil and Shanghai, unveiled a 26 per cent rise in pre-tax profits to ￡376m for the year to March, on sales up 24 per cent to ￡1.86bn. ?Ahrendts gave them to the Ahrendts-Couch Family Foundation, which sold them at 1148p a share, totalling ￡574,000.The couple set up the private charity in the past few weeks in Delaware to give to good causes.Ahrendts came under attack earlier this year when it emerged she received a one-off ￡5.8m share payment last year.?Burberry will pay Paris-based InterParfums about ?181m (￡142m) to terminate the deal from December. But it is continuing discussions with the company about how to structure a new deal. It said the outcome of discussions is "uncertain". Termination of the agreement leaves Burberry open to pursue other options if a deal cannot be struck with InterParfums. Burberry said it had taken the decision to end the contract "to maintain flexibility in pursuing its objective to develop fully this business in the future".The British brand has been renegotiating a number of contracts and licensees in a wholesale shake-up of its global business in order to give Burberry more control of how its products are sold to customers.?Tailoring and enhanced ranges drove a 26% rise in menswear sales,while non-clothing such as bags, small leather goods and accessories lifted 50%.Burberry's total revenues were up 24% to ￡1.9 billion in the yearto March 31 and pre-tax profits lifted to ￡366 million as key Asian markets showed more strong growth and flagship stores in London and Paris performed well.It is planning 15 new outlets in the current financial year, withthe focus on larger format stores such as its relocated site in London's Regent Street.There are 63 stores in mainland China, accounting for 12% of revenues, and Burberry said it would continue to invest in the under-penetrated market.As well as doubling its number of Facebook fans to 12 million at the year end, Burberry has extended its presence on Chinese social mediaplatforms and launched other initiatives such as Tweetwalk during London Fashion Week.Richard Hunter, head of equities at Hargreaves Lansdown stockbrokers, described the annual results performance as robust.He added: "A 24% rise in pre-tax profits defies some of the economic gloom, whilst the company's exposure to some strong local markets continues to propel prospects."PA?The luxury-goods retailer said the rise in sales to ￡830m in the six months to the end of September from ￡673m a year ago, was driven by strong sales of "outerwear" ? coats ? especially its range of trench coats. Sales of leather goods were also particularly strong.The Duchess of Cambridge sparked a scramble for Burberry trench coats in March after wearing one on a trip to Belfast, with the make selling out online the next day. The brand is also favoured by the Queen and Kate Moss and advertised by Harry Potter star Emma Watson.Burberry reported a 45 per cent sales bump to ￡528m in its first half, as it sold more in existing stores, expanded to new ones and saw some strong returns from China.Last month its shares had tumbled over concerns for the company's growth in the country after economists at Citi downgraded its economic outlook. Beyond the coats and leather bags, initiatives including men's tailoring and accessories, children's clothing and shoes continued to drive growth.Angela Ahrends, Burberry's chief executive, said that the performance "clearly demonstrates the continuing global momentum of the Burberry brand".There was also a solid performance in its flagship markets, including New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong. The wholesale operation rose by one-fifth following sales to the Americas, emerging markets and of travel goods.The company forecasts that average retail selling space will grow 15 per cent during the second half of its financial year. It hopes to open 25 new stores this year and double space in London.?Total sales came in at ￡408m for the three months to the end of June, showing an underlying increase of 11 per cent. That is down from 15 per cent in the previous quarter and below analysts' forecasts of 13 per cent.The shares fell 7 per cent to 1,189p and its chief executive Angela Ahrendts admitted the company was facing a "more challenging external environment".The sales slowdown came as Burberry confirmed its new flagship store on Regent Street will miss the Olympics. It will not open until September, having been earmarked to open during the summer.The luxury sector is beginning to show signs of the impact of Europe's debt crisis and slower growth in emerging markets, including China.Stacey Cartwright, chief financial officer at Burberry, said: "This is a robust performance. We were up against tough comparisons. But we have a huge amount of brand momentum and we are in line, or better than peers."Bethany Hocking, an analyst at Investec, said: "We expect Burberry's shares to suffer today. We note, however, that full-year guidance appears unchanged and the first quarter is Burberry's smallest quarter. It is also against the toughest comparisons."Burberry has been putting its house in order, tidying up messy licence agreements in Japan and focusing on a "legacy clean-up", getting rid of cheaper product lines and selling less through discount outlets.This has had an impact on sales, Ms Cartwright said, but would mean its margins had improved.She added that Burberry had been "eliminating the non-British-made outerwear at the lower price points" and focusing on "weaved, British-made fabrics".Despite being hit by a 5 per cent drop in licensing revenue, shop sales rose 14 per cent to ￡280m and comparable store sales were up 6 per cent.Ms Cartwright said the focus remains on "global flagship markets" and the company will continue to open giant stores in key markets, where "luxury travelling consumers" continue to visit and spend.Growth came from the UK, France, Germany and China, and several new stores are due to open this year, include in London, Chicago, Hong Kong and Shanghai.In the capital, Burberry said London Fashion Week in September is a more desirable time to open a new store. Ms Cartwright said: "London will be interesting during the Olympics. There will be traffic chaos. "We are focused on the luxury travelling consumer, not those who are visiting for the Olympics. In Beijing, we didn't see an uplift at our store during the Olympics, so opening in September is better for us."?The luxury goods company could buy back the current licence which runs to 2017, extend it or even bid to take over Inter Parfums.Sales of Burberry fragrances were ?210m (￡176m) last year and are growing with the recent launch of Burberry Body. In recent years, Burberry has bought out many licences taking direct control of its interests.Inter Parfums also makes and distributes perfumes for Van Cleef & Arpels, Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith and Montblanc.?Analysts have predicted total sales growth up 18-20 per cent with sales for the quarter forecast to be close to ￡569m.But like-for-like retail sales growth could be slightly down on last year at around 15 per cent.The company's 10 million Facebook friends are testament to its growing social media presence ? it released images from the catwalk yesterday on a Twitter "tweetwalk".?The company's shares have been buffeted by concerns over China in recent months but Burberry stressed the country accounts for only 10 per cent of its global revenues and that Shanghai and Beijing represent just two of its 25 flagship markets globally. Angela Ahrendts, the chief executive of Burberry, said: "It [China] is a nice and strong market. But it is not a market that Burberry is overly dependent on. There are 25 Londons around the world and that is where Burberry is focused." Indeed, China, where Burberry acquired its 50 franchise stores in September 2010, delivered a 30 per cent jump in like-for-like sales.Shares in Burberry fell 74p, or 5 per cent, to 1,347p yesterday, although they are up nearly 20 per cent this year. For the six months to 30 September, Burberry posted a 26 per cent rise in underlying profits to ￡162m, on total revenues up 29 per cent to ￡830m. The profit rise was driven by an increase in margins and double-digit revenue growth across all its regions, divisions and product categories. Its retail gross margin rose by 2.4 per cent to 66.7 per cent. Ms Ahrendts also cited strong performances in London, Paris, New York, Dubai and Hong Kong. But Asia-Pacific was the star, growing retail and wholesale revenues by 51 per cent to ￡265.3m. Since 2010, Burberry has doubled its workforce at its factory in Castleford, Yorkshire, which makes most of the gaberdine trenchcoats for its new Burberry Bespoke website. The site provides 12 million options, including different studs, cuffs and collars.?Like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to 8 September, meaning its pre-tax profits for the year will come at the lower end of expectations. Analysts had predicted a total of between ￡407m and ￡455m. Following the announcement, shares slumped by almost 19 per cent, wiping ￡1bn from its market value in what one analyst described as "shooting the messenger" over a crisis across luxury brands.Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts said the company's second quarter growth had slowed against "historically high comparatives" in a "challenging market". "Given this background, we are tightly managing discretionary costs and taking appropriate actions to protect short- term profitability," she added.In the short term, the company's headcount has been frozen, travel expenditure will be cut and new IT projects have been deferred. The long-term strategies, including expansion into emerging markets and a diversification into non-clothing products, are still in place.As luxury giants LVMH (behind Louis Vuitton) and PPR (Gucci, Alexander McQueen) took single digit hits, analysts pondered whether there could be a problem with growth across high-end manufacturers. Ahrendts didn't specify whether results were hit in Western markets or emerging markets ? leading to speculation it could be both.The announcement was in stark contrast to an optimistic forecast at the opposite end of the retail sector. Primark said like-for-like sales had increased by 3 per cent in the year to 15 September, with 19 new branch launches increasing overall sales by 15 per cent.Neil Saunders, managing director of retail analysts Conlumino, said the current economic climate protected super-cheap brands such as Primark, as well as those who sell to the "uber wealthy", but Burberry is a different beast. "In Western markets, a lot of Burberry's success is predicated on the fact they sell to a wide market. It may be a luxury brand, but middle-market consumers will stretch their budget upwards to purchase Burberry items," he said. Brands that sell to the middle market, such as Marks & Spencer, have had a difficult year.Growth in China has slowed, Mr Saunders said, because "luxury businesses have piled into those markets so now it's much more competitive". In an environment where companies can no longer rely on Asian and Latin American markets for growth, Burberry needed to address customers' needs, he said.Jaana Jatyri, CEO of Trendstop.com, said Burberry had fallen foul of the fickle fashion world: "In this climate, people are watching what they spend."The first store opened in Dublin in 1969, but aggressive expansion in the UK and Europe in recent years has seen that number soar to 242 today, with 19 stores opened in the last year alone. Unashamedly cheap, Primark apes trends and appeals to a young but trend-savvy clientele. Skinny jeans sell for ￡11, and analysts are forecasting group profits (it's owned by Associated British Foods) for this year of ￡970m.Founded in Basingstoke in 1856 by a draper's apprentice and later renowned for its distinct tartan pattern, Burberry saw its yearly sales boom to ￡3.5bn last year with the help of CEO Angela Ahrendts's commercial wiles and chief designer Christopher Bailey's fashion nous. Burberry has more than 500 outlets, and women's trench coats from the top Prorsum line start at ￡1,095.?Instead, guests were greeted at the vast marquee in Kensington Gardens by a projected London skyline, in which Burberry's newly opened 44,000 sq ft flagship store on Regent Street featured prominently.And chief creative officer Christopher Bailey's collection was no less bombastic, a celebration of the Prorsum line's high-end credentials with sumptuous fabrics and couture detailing, and a reassertion of its hip-heritage status among some of the world's wealthiest private clients.The label's signature trench was reworked in a spectrum of holographic shades, from hot pink via aubergine to cobalt and apple green, and reimagined as cropped mini-capes, bolero bomber jackets and cocoon coats with the voluminous sack-back and drop-shouldered silhouette so redolent of the 1950s golden age of atelier craftsmanship.Artisanal touches came on plisse silk corsets, laser-cut lace outerwear and separates, and a bustier dress covered in royal blue feathers, a bold statement of the brand's unshakable luxe identity and faith in its chosen commercial route.Young designer Christopher Kane meanwhile, dealt with the nuts and bolts in his offering yesterday. Sharply cut and classically feminine crepe de Chine dresses in white, lemon yellow and bubblegum pink were ingeniously held together at the shoulder with moulded plastic fastenings shaped like wingnuts; they came as buttons on boxy jackets and skirts, too.Restrained decoration came by way of fluid planes of fabric that cascaded down the front of minimal Sixties-style shift dresses. But Kane's vision of femininity was toughened up with padded leather motorcross jackets featuring an embossed pattern of roses, and haphazard strips of packing tape used as rough embellishment. His great strength as a designer is creating glamorously modern clothes that are conceptual, cool and comfortable.Stiffly frilled organdie skirts and dresses were printed with nostalgically twee bows, which were later realised in 3D in the same rubberised plastic and worked into latticed skirts and jackets. "That was a bit of a cash-and carry-moment," the designer said. "The bows were meant to be sickly sweet, the colours were serene so you didn't know what was coming next."London Fashion Week draws to a close today with shows from Mulberry and Meadham Kirchhoff.Transport kindly provided by Mercedes Benz?Burberry Prorsum has been showcased in the British capital since 2009 (prior to that the show was in Milan alongside that city's big guns) and it gives London Fashion Week an ultra-glossy and unusually corporate international lift.Still, the label is quintessentially British at heart as could be seen in yesterday's glamorous procession of outerwear all of which appeared, as if by magic, beneath a shower of (man-made) rain. Blanket coats, bombers, waxed jackets and of course the label's famous trench coat, which was this time cut in a gabardine and tweed mix, remain the core of its business to this day.Christopher Bailey, Burberry's chief creative officer, understands this sensibility well. More typically English references came in the form of flared riding skirts, overblown dress shirts borrowed from men, animal print T-shirts, and for the country-house soiree, fringed dresses and quilted velvet in the colour of the forthcoming autumn season: ox-blood.As well as respecting Burberry's British heritage, which remains the principal source of inspiration for the Prorsum collection and the brand as a whole, the powers that be at the label consistently have an eye on the future where digital innovation is concerned. The show was live-streamed on its website and looks can be ordered online for seven days meaning any customers may find themselves in possession of their autumn 2012 wardrobe and, of course, accessories finished with shiny brass duck and fox heads to go with it, almost half a year before they reach the store.Christopher Kane is among London's most feted designers and a man who is known for taking the potentially stuffy cliches of the bourgeois wardrobe and twisting them slightly - or indeed quite a lot. His collection, shown earlier in the day, was inspired, he said, by art photographer Joseph Szabo's portraits of American teenagers and the ambivalence of adolescence. With that in mind, here was a woman - or in fact a girl - who strode down the runway in leather and pinstripe, velvet and moire, all in hard as nails colours - royal blue, true red, purple and predominantly black - and emphatically heavy square-toed ankle boots and Mary-Jane shoes.If last season Kane invested the ubiquitous reference to mid-Twentieth haute couture that continues to sweep the ready-to-wear circuit with a homespun feel, this time he darkened it to the point where it was almost gothic, and certainly mournful, in flavour. Black roses appeared on narrow knee-length dresses that were more nasty than nice; the ribbons threaded through neck- and waist-lines, similarly, came not in fluttering silks but padded black leather tied into stiff bows.The over-riding toughness in mood belied the fine quality of workmanship and loving? attention to detail throughout. Fabric treatments and embellishment were both extraordinary in their complexity and innovative. This could be seen in floral jewel-encrusted embroideries and garments covered entirely in what looked like pulled threads.Chunky knit jumpers, cigarette pants and skinny leather coats only added to the impression of ferocity mor than overt femininity in the stereotypical sense of the word. It was all the more refreshing for that.The day kicked off with a confident showing courtesy of the designer pairing, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos. Famed for their prints, the principal reference on this occasion was Japanese 'light trucks' - literally, according to the show notes, cars covered in thousands of lights - Chinese mask make-up and overblown garden flowers - specifically lilac, carnation and iris.This came stamped or embroidered onto everything from jeans and Puffa jackets with exaggerated collars to signature, body-conscious jersey dresses that kicked at the hem. While the hyper-technical quality of the whole might not be to everyone's taste, there was no disputing the talent on display here.?The Debrett's People of Today entry for ex-Formula 1 racing team owner Eddie Jordan needs to be updated as it emerged last week that Jordan and LDC private equity boss Darryl Eales snapped up the venerable guide to etiquette and genealogy, earlier this year. There's been plenty of scepticism over oil explorers looking for black gold in the Falklands, so Rockhopper chief executive Sam Moody must feel vindicated after a $1bn deal on Thursday.Premier Oil splashed out that amount to take a 60 per cent stake in the group.Also on Thursday, Aegis boss Jerry Buhlmann announced the advertising group's ￡3.2bn sale to Japan's Dentsu. He stands to make ￡10m from the deal.... at a lossBarclays bosses and Bank of England deputy governors have had an awfully bad week but so have others.On Tuesday, Kate Bostock, the one-time darling of the retail sector, quit as executive director for general merchandise at Marks 'n' Sparks, following the chain's worst UK sales performance in three-and-a-half years.The myth that British luxury goods are immune to the financial crisis might not last for much longer after Burberry revealed a slowdown in sales growth on Wednesday with boss Angela Ahrendts admitting to a "more challenging external environment". On Thursday, Peugeot Citroen boss Philippe Varin admitted the French carmaker is losing ?100m a month.?It shows the potential for "cross-pollination" between directors of the UK's top companies, a relationship usually between the non-executive directors of companies who sit on the all-important remuneration committees which set board pay.Looking at the extent to which cross-pollination may be a factor in high-pay culture in boardrooms is one of the key issues being scrutinised by Vince Cable, the Business Secretary, who is due to report on new proposals on corporate pay early in the new year.It is no surprise that FTSE 100 business leaders fear proposals that could put ordinary employees on the key committees that set the pay of their firms' bosses. But a recent Department for Business, Innovation and Skills discussion paper has raised the issue of whether the practice of senior executives of one company sitting on the remuneration committees of other firms has contributed to the culture that caused directors' pay to rise by 41 per cent last year.The department paper referring to pollination between boards says: "There may be a risk of this where a non-executive is involved in setting the pay of someone who, in another company, may have a role in setting theirs."To look into the basis of "cross-pollination" concerns, The IoS examined the most recent published company annual reports and information on corporate websites.At Bovis, the housebuilders, Colin Holmes chairs the remuneration committee with a former banker, Alastair Lyons, as one of the other two members. But at Admiral Group, the Confused.com insurance group, Holmes sits on its remuneration committee setting the pay of its chairman ? Lyons.The Department for Business says it is extremely common for individual directors to have a role in several companies, either as executives or part-time non-executives. So stakeholders had argued that "there is a strong case for preventing these situations from arising", it states.But Damien Knight, a director at the executive pay consultancy MM&K, has submitted figures to the department claiming such practises are not common. "It's just not true," he says. "There is not one pair of FTSE 100 executives with membership of each other's boards."However, there still may be cases where one party is a non-executive chairperson whose pay is set by these committees. Sir John Peace and David Tyler are both on the remuneration committee at the Burberry fashion group. But at the Experian credit agency ? another FTSE 100 company ? Tyler sits on its committee which decides the pay of the chairman, who is Peace.The High Pay Commission last month produced a report calling for greater diversity on remuneration committees to curb the inflation in directors' rewards. Deborah Hargreaves, who chairs the commission, says: "Our work has shown we must now break open the closed shop that sets pay for our top directors and get back to basics on executive pay."She adds: "The make-up of the non-executive directors, who determine executive pay deals, could be having an inflationary effect on pay. Even looked at in the most positive light, non-executive directors often come from a relatively small pool of individuals."Remuneration committees comprise non-executive directors, some of whom can earn directorship fees of ￡125,000 a year. But the department's paper refers to concerns that they are drawn from too narrow a group ? including executives of other companies.Sarah Wilson, chief executive of the shareholder advisory firm Manifest monitors board structures, says "We've moved on considerably from the days of cosy remuneration committees. I do not think one person can have that much influence."But the TUC has told the Government it welcomes the proposal for employee representation on remuneration committees and is ready to organise training for workers. However, Janet Williamson, a senior policy officer, says: "We are expecting fierce opposition from the corporate sector and the City. Those groups have a lot invested in the status quo."The Association of British Insurers, which represents shareholders, will oppose the proposal. Its investor affairs spokesman, Marc Jobling, says: "We agree that diversity of perspective is extremely important, not just on remuneration committees, but across the board as a whole. That addresses the 'cosy club' issue. There's a danger of group-think."However, he claims directors' pay in European countries with worker-representatives can be equally high.Even if straight swaps between boards are relatively rare, critics say the whole ethos of executives from one company setting the pay for top directors at another has the potential for a conflict of interest. While not directly boosting their own rewards, they are keeping corporate pay packages high, setting an environment for their own remuneration to rise when it is reviewed.Hargreaves' reports states: "The current market in executive pay relies on non-executive directors, acting in the interests of shareholders to bargain with the executive, who is acting in his own personal interest."Most boards are made up predominantly of men from a financial or managerial background. Many of these non-executives are either current executive directors at other companies or recently retired executives. While they have no direct interest in the company, they may have an indirect financial interest in the level of remuneration given. Individuals taken from the same background are more prone to 'group think'."Large numbers of executives on committees which set the pay for their peers can be detected in British boardrooms. For example, the Admiral's remuneration committee, which sets Lyons's pay, is chaired by John Sussens, who also chairs the committee at Cookson that assesses the pay of its chairman, Jeff Harris. But Harris sits on WH Smith's pay committee, which determines the pay package for its chief executive, Kate Swann ? and she is on the pay committee at Babcock International whose chief executive is Peter Rogers. Rogers sits on the pay committee at Galliford Try, the house-building firm, alongside Andrew Jenner who is finance director at the Serco services group ? whose chairman is also Alastair Lyons.The remuneration committee at Experian, on which David Tyler also sits, sets the pay of the chief executive, Don Robert. He, in turn, sits on the remuneration committee of the catering group Compass which decides on the pay of the chief executive, Richard Cousins. Cousins is himself on the remuneration committee of Reckitt Benckiser, the household products business which was run by Bart Brecht. Tyler was himself a Reckitt director until 2009.It's only recently that trade bodies such as the Institute of Directors have become more closely involved in the debate, as they fear that the reputation of business generally is being damaged. Indeed, it was the IoD's director general, Simon Walker, who attacked "unsustainable" rises in boardroom pay. And it is the IoD which suggests there should be voluntary discussions between employee representatives and remuneration committees and more information about the consultants used to help.?Croda was chosen by Deutsche Bank's Tim Jones as his top UK stock in the sector for 2012, citing a number of reasons, including his belief that demand for consumer products using its chemicals will continue to grow.The analyst said that with more men wanting to take care of their appearance while an ageing population attempts to keep looking young, there has been a trend for "increased grooming" that has "supported growth through the downturn".The analyst, who kept his "buy" recommendation", also revived talk that Croda could become a bid target.It is a familiar idea, with US company Dow Chemical one of the names frequently linked in takeover speculation.Mr Jones said: "External interest is possible given [Croda's] strong market positions, consumer focus and relatively small size of the company."However, he conceded that "valuation may prove an obstacle" and predicted that in the sector "management teams will remain cautious".Despite the praise ? which included his speculating that the company's strong balance sheet could see it returning more cash to punters ? Croda eased up only 6p to 1,850p on the mid-tier index.At the start of what was again described as a vital week for the eurozone, German leader Angela Merkel and and her French counterpart Nicolas Sarkozy's joint proposals for a new EU treaty were greeted with cautious optimism.Yet while the FTSE 100 moved above the 5,600 level during trading for the first time since October, by the bell it was just 15.67 points stronger at 5,567.96, although this was still a five-week high.The two state-backed blue-chip banks stormed ahead, with Lloyds grabbing the top spot after surging up 1.61p to 27p.The sector was helped by Deutsche Bank's announcing that it remained "positive on the UK domestic banks long-term" and recommending punters buy into Lloyds as well as Royal Bank of Scotland (up 1.14p to 22.77p) and Barclays (up 1p to 191.65p).Among the commodity stocks, Glencore International rose 14p to 424.95p after its boss Ivan Glasenberg claimed in an interview with the Swiss newspaper 20 Minuten that he would not get rid of any of his 15.8 per cent stake while working at the company.Burberry was out of fashion with invesors, slipping 44p to 1,272p and propping up the foot of the top-tier index.Unsurprisingly, it was gloomy news from China, one of the luxury brand's major growth markets, that did the damage after services sector data from the country showed further signs of a slowdown.Good news may be rare in retail at the moment but as Peel Hunt pointed out, at least it's not snowing.Twelve months ago, icy conditions forced shoppers to stay at home, whereas Christmas looks set to be milder this year.The broker noted that online retailers, unable to offer their usual delivery guarantees, were particularly hit by last year's weather, citing Asos as one example.Peel Hunt said that this year the AIM-listed clothing company's figures would impress in comparison.Its analysts also upgraded its rating to "buy" in the wake of the group's share price losing more than 40 per cent since June. It rose 47p to 1,407p in response.However, despite strong sales figures from sector bellwether John Lewis over the weekend, not every retailer was on the rise. Next declined 57p to 2,660p while Marks & Spencer was 1.1p lower at 329p amid fears over sales discounts already being offered on the high street.There was yet more woe for recruiters after Michael Page warned its profits for the year would be towards the lower end of City forecasts. It retreated 4.8p to 87.65p as a result. And coming after SThree's admission last week that it has seen a slowdown in trading , traders were looking nervously at sector peer Hays, which eased back 0.55p to 70.65p.Evolution's Nigel Pearson clearly fancies himself as a film critic, arguing that while 3D technology "cannot make a bad film good ... it can make a good film better". He went on to note that the increase this year in the number of 3D titles could only be good news for Cineworld, although the cinema company still failed to move from 204p.Also on the small-cap index, its announcement that it had struck a ?222 m (￡191m) deal to sell its Norwegian business saw newspaper publisher Mecom climb 12p to 197p.FTSE 100 Risersl International Airlines Group 157.9p (up 4.4p, 2.87 per cent) British Airways owner climbs as its latest traffic figures show a 2.1 per cent increase in the number of passengers over November.l Lonmin 1,076p (up 13p, 1.22 per cent) Platinum producer manages to strike deal with South Africa's National Union of Mineworkers to raise the pay of its employees by as much as 10 per cent.FTSE 100 Fallersl Centrica 293.1p (down 3.2p, 1.08 per cent) Owner of British Gas falls despite announcing it is looking for joint-investment opportunities in upstream oil and gas with Qatar Petroleum.l British American Tobacco 2,933p (down 23.5p, 0.79 per cent) Cigarette manufacturer drops for the first time in six trading sessions, as punters decide to move away from defensive stocks.FTSE 250 Risersl Pace 67.9p (up 10.65p, 18.6 per cent) Set-top box maker helped by Numis upgrading its rating to "hold" in the wake of last week's news that major supplier Western Digital has restarted production in Thailand.l SDL 663p (up 32.5p, 5.15 per cent) Translation software company still climbing after announcing on Friday it has managed to agree ￡68.4m takeover of small-cap marketing group Alterian.FTSE 250 Fallersl Bellway 732p (down 44.5p, 5.73 per cent) Housebuilder knocked back by Panmure Gordon's decision to downgrade its recommendation to "hold" from "buy", citing the recent strong rise in the group's share price.l Berkeley 1,316p (down 44p, 3.24 per cent) Builder slips despite a number of brokers ? including Credit Suisse and UBS ? all raising their target prices on the company following Friday's interim results.?I am struck by the ham analogy during a recent interview with Redmayne. Exactly 10 years since he was plucked from Cambridge University to play Viola opposite Mark Rylance's Olivia in a 400th-anniversary production of Twelfth Night, he has just learned that his current performance as Richard II at the Donmar Warehouse has been crowned Best Shakespearean Performance at the Critics' Circle Awards ? no mean feat, given that the season has also seen heavyweight Shakespeare contributions from the likes of Spacey, Tennant, Sheen and Fiennes.In the intervening decade between Viola and Richard, Redmayne has worked fastidiously and uncompromisingly. Allergic to anything resembling complacency, he rarely takes a day off. Now he is talking to me over a cup of tea before heading back to the theatre for that night's performance, and he is radiant with excitement at the Critics' Circle news."It's just the loveliest, loveliest thing that could have happened," he admits. But where most actors would take such a prize as cue to relax and enjoy the last weeks of the run, Redmayne shakes his head. He's going back to work."Because you never get it right," he insists. "You never get it close to getting it right, you never get one line exactly how your notion of it should be. That's what's so exciting about theatre. Most actors hate watching their own films because all you can see is the glaring mistakes, your own tricks and ticks. But people often ask, how can you do the same play night after night for months on end and not get bored? And that's the reason. In theatre you always have the chance to try and fix what you did the night before."It seems remarkable that the London-born Redmayne, who has just turned 30 and is having, by any definition, a golden moment, should remain so self-critical. As well as giving his Richard every night, making lines like "I live by bread like you, feel want/ Taste grief, need friends" seem revelatory, he is also gracing Sunday night television screens as Stephen Wraysford in a landmark BBC1 adaptation of Sebastian Faulks's Birdsong, and charming cinema audiences in My Week With Marilyn. As soon as Richard II closes, the former Eton and Cambridge choral scholar is off to play (and sing) Marius in Tom Hooper's big-screen musical adaptation of Les Miserables, with Russell Crowe, Hugh Jackman, Helena Bonham Carter and Anne Hathaway. And with major theatre awards from the Olivier to the Tony already to his name, he is now up for a Bafta ? this year's Rising Star Award, which is voted for by the public ? and looking, increasingly, like the one to beat.But this is also the young man who was so unconvinced he would make it as an actor that he seriously considered other career options after graduating, including art history and banking (his father and one of his three brothers are in finance; nobody else in his family is in the arts)."I didn't go to drama school, so there was no official transformation stage, no moment where I got a certificate, even a bit of paper, saying 'right, you're allowed to do this now,'" he points out."After university, I gave myself a year. I was working in a pub and doing excruciating auditions and wondering if my new agent who'd taken this huge punt on me would sack me, and I remember getting a part in an episode of Doctors and it was probably the most exciting thing that had ever happened in my life. Then I went to Liverpool to do a play called Master Harold... and the Boys and I was living in a hostel on my own for three months and it was the most wonderful experience. I started to think, secretly, 'well, maybe I can do this'. But I came back to London and nobody took any notice and I went back to work at the pub. I always felt a bit fraudulent, like I was waiting to be exposed." Munching a biscuit, he contemplates this. "In a way, I still do. I still feel this incredible sense of gratitude that anybody actually lets me do this professionally."In any other actor, this might come across as galling false modesty. Given his current ubiquity, it's easy to imagine that Redmayne's success has arrived largely overnight; but that "star" to which the Bafta nomination alludes has been gradually rising for 10 years. It may also be tempting, considering the green eyes, 6ft 1in frame, and ridiculous cheekbones that have won him Burberry modelling contracts and a multitude of devoted fans both male and female ? though he is currently single ? to assume that this is just another talented pretty boy who happened to get very lucky. But ever since Rylance gave him that first big break, Redmayne has personified the old adage that luck is merely what happens when hard work meets opportunity. As his CV has swelled, so too has his dedication; the more professional triumphs that have come his way, the more he has put his head down and worked harder. He certainly takes nothing for granted."Listen, acting is not surgery," he remarks, "it's entertainment. You're doing something to hopefully move people, to make them laugh, to transport them. But actors are vulnerable, and the reason we're vulnerable is that we're always trying to recreate human behaviour. And any human being has the right to look at that behaviour and decide if it looks real to them or not. Everyone has that capacity for judgment, everyone can turn around and say, 'sorry, but I just don't believe that'. So if you have thin skin ? and I don't have particularly thick skin ? then your need to constantly please people, well... it's completely impossible. That's why I still feel I've got so much work to do, to really try and nail this thing.'If the drama-school credentials are lacking, Redmayne is, by his own admission, a "sponge", and right from the outset he found himself in a formidable real-life classroom. "My first film, Like Minds, was with Toni Colette, who was extraordinary," he remembers. "I mean it was basically a mini-masterclass for acting on film at a time when all you could probably see were my eyebrows bouncing up and down on screen." We work out that, over 10 films, he has worked with at least 10 Oscar-winning actors, from each of whom he has learned valuable lessons."It's just the greatest luck," he maintains, sounding mildly incredulous, "to have been able to work with such brilliant people." But while these other actors may arrive in a rehearsal room or on set with their ideas fixed ? indeed William Hurt, whom Redmayne worked with on The Yellow Handkerchief, has his preferred rehearsal method guaranteed by a clause in his contract ? Redmayne subscribes to no fixed approach. He loves, he says, "to be part of a director's vision", and to mix the process up; whether it be Tim Carroll and Dominic Cooke's work with "intentions" or Michael Grandage's desire to get a play up on its feet almost immediately "so that he captures those instinctive things; whatever you do when you don't know the play well enough to be thinking about it."Is there a quality that unites the directors Redmayne admires, I wonder? He considers this. "Taste?" he ventures. "Generosity of spirit? Certainly, they create an atmosphere of kindness and freedom, an environment in which an actor can really take risks, and they have the silent confidence of being sensationally bright." He clarifies. "I mean, the intelligence is never demonstrated or bragged about but it's just there ? so you feel confident in their confidence."I ask which of his directors most exemplifies these traits and he eagerly cites early experiences with Tim Carroll (Twelfth Night), Phil Willmott (Master Harold... and the Boys), Dominic Cooke (Now or Later) and Tom Kalin (Savage Grace), as well as more recent ones with Michael Grandage (Red and Richard II), Derick Martini (Hick) and Philip Martin (Birdsong).So, pretty much everybody then. Is this just the Redmayne people-pleasing imperative in action, I wonder? Has he ever had a rubbish experience? He blushes, lowers his eyes behind a gulp of tea. "Well, there was one film I did ? obviously I can't name names ? but I was on set with a group of phenomenal actors doing a scene and struggling to make a particular line come alive and I had this great director standing over me going, 'come on, Eddie! I've seen you act on stage, I know you can do it, JUST MAKE IT LIVE!' It makes you... want to jump on the first plane to America."Redmayne is a born-and-bred London boy, and seems almost as excited by the fact he has just had an offer accepted on his first flat, in Borough, as he is by his latest acting prize. But America has embraced him since day one; we have often joked how bizarre it is that he seems more at home playing dysfunctional, often gay Statesiders with distinctly warped backgrounds (most recently, a Texan serial-killing cowboy with a limp in Hick, for example) than well-balanced, well-educated, straight Englishmen from solid, happy families like his own."Oh, this is an argument I often have with my mum," he chuckles. "She always complains, "but so-and-so's just playing himself," and I have to remind her that it's actually incredibly difficult to play yourself! But the further a character is from what you are, well..." He thinks about this for a moment. "It's like jumping off a cliff or something, and there's a high chance you're going to end up with egg on your face. So if you're going to end up with egg on your face anyway then it doesn't really matter how much; so you leap at it and go all guns blazing. When you're playing someone closer to you, you're much more constrained. All you can hear is how wrong you're getting it.'There's that self-deprecating reflex again, but the metaphors he chooses, mixed though they may be, are revealing. I remember being struck, as we rehearsed a university production of David Hare's two-hander The Blue Room in 2001, that this was not your average college thesp. He pushed me ? pushed us both ? to go places with our characters that were dark, risky and dangerous. This capacity for plumbing depths is beautifully served in Birdsong. His wartime Stephen Wraysford is damaged and raw, while the flashbacks to 1910 reveal a young man in all his idealistic, romantic passion. That fissure within Wraysford is what most appealed to Redmayne, who had devoured the book as a teenager but had read a number of previous adaptation attempts that didn't seem to, in his terms, "nail" that conflict. "The difficulty is that it's an extraordinary love story and then a World War One epic," he suggests. "And the way the love story works, it's clandestine; it's one of deep eroticism that needs to be built through the unsaid, and delivered slowly. How do you do that and then the wartime plot, especially in a single film?" Abi Morgan's version, though, did immediately impress him."It didn't compromise or feel like it was cramming story into time but it had a length and a breadth that allowed the characters to breathe. And she had this conceit where Stephen's idyllic interlude in Amiens as a young man falling in love is juxtaposed with him during the war as this masochistic, cold human being. Actually, I think maybe it's similar to what I've been trying to do with Richard II. The audience see these two fundamentally different people, really taken to the extremes, and there's this vexed question that has to play out through the piece of how they might ever be reconciled."On the mention of Richard, Redmayne checks the time, then jumps up. He's due back at the Donmar to revisit his flawed, vulnerable, painfully human king; and somehow ? who knows how ? try to improve upon whatever it was he did last night.'Birdsong' ends Sunday, 9pm on BBC1. 'Richard II' is at the Donmar Warehouse, London () until 4 February. 'My Week with Marilyn' is in cinemas now?I realise that admitting you're a secret fan of Songs of Praise is like saying you believe in God or think that marriage is a good idea ? something not mentioned in public. In the media world, you're a laughing stock if you admit to any of the above. Morality in modern society is a pick 'n'mix affair ? feel free to do what you like and we won't judge you.What fab roles models we've got in public life; the Milibands got married long after their kids were born, and Labour refuses to dignify marriage as a desirable state of affairs. God forbid Nick Clegg would raise his head above the parapet on this issue either. David Cameron approves of marriage ? but hesitates to make it financially rewarding.Our leaders are so feeble about morality and belief it makes me feel slightly nauseous. When it comes to discussion about religion in modern Britain, every minority has got to have equal airtime, equal prominence, even though new statistics show we're overwhelmingly a Christian society, 70 per cent claiming it as their faith. Muslims constitute only 4.4 per cent of the population.In this climate of embarrassment about spirituality and personal values, I wasn't surprised to read that the BBC was thinking of phasing out AD and BC, and replacing it with the anodyne expression Common Era ? although the director of editorial policy was on Radio 4's Feedback on Friday, backtracking like mad and claiming it was only an idea floated on a website. The BBC's head of religious broadcasting is Muslim, and the producer of Songs of Praise is a Sikh, neither of which bothers me. What I find more unsettling is the feeling that coverage of our mainstream religion is not regarded as a cornerstone of the output. Aaqil Ahmed, the BBC's head of religion and ethics (notice how religion gets only part-billing in his job description, ethics being now as important as belief), thinks that the Church of England is living in the past and shouldn't be given any preferential treatment. I agree about the former but not the latter.The problem facing the Church of England can be summed up in two words ? Rowan Williams. This uncharismatic academic wrote a disastrous editorial for the New Statesman earlier this year, moaning about the coalition and claiming politicians didn't understand the climate of "fear" in the country. The same unelected, unaccountable chap was due yesterday at the 60th birthday of another bloke, Bob Geldof, who is always telling democratically elected leaders what they're doing wrong. At least Saint Bob has raised millions for the world's poor and needy, whereas the Archbishop of Canterbury has failed to offer any kind of leadership to his flock and is now rumoured to be ready to resign before the end of his tenure.The church sits on a property portfolio worth ￡5.3bn. It owns prime real estate, offices, shops, housing and 105,000 acres of farmland. Its bishops live in palaces, and the Church commissioners use their holdings to generate wealth to repair churches and fund their clergy. Over the years they have made some spectacular losses ? ￡800m in the 1990s and ￡40m in 2010, when they invested in property in New York just before the crash. Shouldn't they use more of their huge wealth to reach out to the needy in modern Britain, demonstrating their faith through direct action?In spite of 70 per cent of us saying we believe in God, the number attending church is plummeting. It's an unappealing use of our time. We're turned off by ineffectual leaders and the endless wavering over gay priests and female bishops. There's so much the Church of England could be doing ? taking belief out of outdated buildings and into the lives of ordinary people in offices, canteens and schools. Rowan Williams has presided over a PR disaster for his church; at this rate, it will cease to exist except as somewhere we go to get married or be buried.No wonder the BBC's head of religion thinks it's a turn-off. He's right, but please spare Songs of Praise.Down and out in Paris ? fashion hits rock bottomThe most unpleasant hours of my early career were spent at couture shows in Paris, when I wrote about fashion. Nothing seems to have changed. Designers employ hatchet- faced PRs who take malicious pleasure in inspecting your invitation as if it's forged and cramming you into cramped rows of tiny seats in airless spaces you would not put a hamster in, let alone several hundred overdressed sweaty adults.Once in your unforgiving chair, you can expect to wait at least an hour for the "show" ? usually a parade of unsmiling stick insects. Generally you can't see much, as photographers and favoured celebs fill the front row, with buyers next, and journalists further back. As the fashion press gives designers free publicity, without which their brands would be worthless, it's amazing more don't walk out.At the Balenciaga show in Paris last week, the front benches collapsed, depositing everyone on the floor, and the entire audience, including VIPs such as actress Salma Hayek and Vogue's Anna Wintour, had to watch the show (and make notes) standing up. Burberry shows its range online and via Twitter ? surely a better option than risking spinal injury from a faulty seat.Wesker's fare has gone staleKitchen by Arnold Wesker, revived at the National Theatre, has stunning staging and choreography, and excellent, energetic performances. It's set in the kitchen of a busy West End restaurant in the late 1950s, and its cast of 31 makes the piece expensive to stage. But there could be another reason it is rarely performed: Wesker's play has absolutely nothing to say but the blindingly obvious. Yes, loads of nationalities work in catering.Yes, their ups and downs could be a simile for a larger world. But this piece has a great big hollow at its heart. Why didn't Wesker let someone else update his work?The bestseller race starts hereOn Thursday, 225 hardback books, three times the number usually published in a week, hit the shops as publishers fight for our cash in the run-up to Christmas. In spite of talk of the demise of books, the 10 bestsellers in 2010 racked up sales worth more than ￡1m each.Who will be the big winners this year? James Corden's autobiography, for sure. Jamie's Great Britain, half price in some shops, is already a runaway succes. But I'm not so sure about Heston Blumenthal at Home ? this man left his home for a hot new mistress. Maybe some fans won't buy into his latest version of domestic bliss. ?Today, the biggest movie franchise of all time is Harry Potter, with eight films and box office of $7,706,147,978 (￡4,755,340,955) under its belt. Just as its creator J?K Rowling is striking out with her first adult novel, The Casual Vacancy, so the films' three lead actors are beginning their post-Potter careers. At the ages of 24 (Rupert Grint), 23 (Daniel Radcliffe) and 22 (Emma Watson), they might well look at their predecessors' experience and wonder whether their best years are already behind them. Will they be Harrison Fords, or Mark Hamills?Radcliffe has moved on with The Woman in Black, the most successful British horror film in 20 years. Grint was in the little-seen Second World War drama Into the White. And next week, Watson faces her first big box-office test since Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part Two eased past the $1.3bn mark to become the highest-grossing film of 2011, and the biggest earner of the whole series.The Perks of Being a Wallflower is based on a beloved young adult novel by Stephen Chbosky, who is also its director. It is set in 1990s Pittsburgh, and once again Watson plays the girl in a boy-girl-boy trio of high-school outsiders navigating the perils of adolescence. In this case, of course, those perils are more proms than potions. The young actress is required to portray a regular, troubled teen; unlike most of her peers, however, she has limited personal experience from which to draw inspiration.A wealthy celebrity throughout her own teens, Watson was cast as Hermione Granger, in Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone ? the highest-grossing film of 2001 ? when she was only nine. There is plenty of evidence, too, to suggest a precocious shrewdness about her career. After fulfilling her contract on the first four Potter films, Watson was the last of the three leads to commit to completing the franchise, and her salary per sequel was doubled to ￡2m. "The pluses outweighed the minuses," the then-16-year-old said of her decision. "Let's be honest," she told one US magazine, aged 17, "I have enough money never to have to work again." She is now reported to be worth about ￡26m. These are not the life circumstances of a regular, troubled teen.Watson was born in Paris in April 1990, the daughter of two British lawyers who divorced when she was a child. Aged five, she moved to Oxfordshire with her mother, Jacqueline, and younger brother, Alex. Her father, Chris, now lives in London, and her parents have two more children each from their second marriages. Back in England, Watson attended the prestigious, private Dragon School. At nearby Headington, she would later go on to achieve 10 As at GCSE. Meanwhile, she trained and performed part-time with the Oxford branch of Britain's biggest youth theatre school, Stagecoach, whose alumni also include Jamie Bell, Myleene Klass and Cher Lloyd. It was from Stagecoach that she was plucked to play Hermione in 1999.As the Potter franchise grew in quality and popularity, Watson was consistently awarded more favourable reviews than her two co-stars, though all three of their performances went almost unnoticed, smothered by all the veteran British talent surrounding them: Gambon, Smith, Rickman, Fiennes et al. Watson, Radcliffe and Grint never put in a dud turn, but neither did any of them display the sort of promise that points to awards-laden adult careers ? such as, say, Bell did in Billy Elliot.In 2005, the young actress began a second career as a model, becoming the youngest ever cover star of Teen Vogue. Fashion endorsements and further magazine shoots followed. In 2009, she was named "The Face of Burberry", and nowadays is known as "The Face of Lancome". That sideways move into modelling, she claims, was a deliberate attempt to create a public profile discernible from bossy, geeky Hermione Granger.She remains highly visible on news-stands and billboards, and yet her effect on style is negligible compared with contemporaries such as Alexa Chung, Blake Lively or Kristen Stewart ? also the star of a box-office-busting fantasy franchise, and whose surly, grunge-lite look is currently so in vogue. Last year, Watson was awarded Elle magazine's Style Icon Award by Vivienne Westwood, but not before the fashion designer could be heard wondering aloud at an awards ceremony: "Who is Emma Watson?"Watson's personal life has always been the subject of speculation, as is predictable with any young star ? especially an attractive female one. Yet she has so far proven level-headed. She declared her intention to attend university following the completion of her Harry Potter duties, and, sure enough, enrolled at the Ivy League Brown University in Providence, Rhode Island, in 2009. Last year, she transferred to Worcester College, Oxford, to study English for a year before returning to Brown. She is known to have dated actor Johnny Simmons, and indie rocker/model George Craig. Her present boyfriend, however, is fellow Oxford student Will Adamowicz, who also transferred to the UK from Brown for the year.In 2007, Watson took on her first non-Potter role, as an aspiring actress in a BBC Boxing Day drama, Ballet Shoes. She has voiced a character in an animated feature, The Tale of Despereaux (2008), played a small part in the Monroe biopic My Week with Marilyn (2011), and even starred in a student production of Chekhov's Three Sisters at Brown ? for which, of course, she received no fee. The Perks of Being a Wallflower will be her first lead role that involves no waving of wands.Her future projects sound more ambitious. Watson has completed production on Sofia Coppola's The Bling Ring, a based-on-truth tale of teenagers who burgled the homes of Hollywood celebrities and "fashion icons", including Paris Hilton. She's set to start filming on Darren Aronofsky's biblical epic Noah, alongside Russell Crowe and Anthony Hopkins, and is working with Guillermo del Toro on a new version of Beauty and the Beast ? all of which suggests that she has not only fine taste in directors, but also an excellent agent.In an interview with this week's New Yorker, J?K Rowling discussed her career post-Potter. Her new novel is a dark and sometimes dirty satire on rural life, set around a parish council by-election. Teenagers and adults clash or coalesce in the village of Pagford, a microclimate not entirely unfamiliar to fans of Hogwarts. So fearful was the author of the pressure and scrutiny that would be heaped on her forthcoming work that she briefly planned to publish The Casual Vacancy under an assumed name.The actors who have put faces to her wizarding characters can't even consider such a strategy. Hogwarts provided its protagonists with shelter from the harsher elements of the publishing and film industries, a protective insulation that will be harder to maintain the further they move from Harry, Ron and Hermione. Like Star Wars, Harry Potter created a world of its own, both onscreen and off: separate, somehow, from the day-to-day hits and flops of Hollywood. Now its stars, reduced to mere Muggles, will have to survive in a world without that magic. Watson, for one, looks well prepared.A life in briefBorn: Emma Charlotte Duerre Watson, 15 April 1990, Paris.Family: Parents divorced when she was five. Grew up in Oxfordshire with her mother and brother, Alex.Education: Headington School and Dragon School, Oxford. Then Brown University in the US and Oxford University.Career: Played Hermione in the Harry Potter films. Her first post-Potter lead role is in the just-opened The Perks of Being a Wallflower. Has been the "face" of both Burberry and Lancome.She says: "It's only recently that I've felt much better in my own skin and known my own worth a lot more."They say: "From the first moment, I thought you are going to be able to play a bright articulate girl with conviction, because that's who you are." J K Rowling?Reclining on a plush cream sofa with short, slicked hair and red lips, wearing a fitted black cocktail dress, she is every inch the sophisticated socialite. Poor Emma Watson, I then counter immediately, having constantly to prove to people like me that she isn't 11-years-old any more.Her new role as the face of Lancome's "Rouge in Love" lipstick range will go some way towards changing that view ? shot by Mario Testino, the campaign captures her youthful vitality in a new and chic, gamine expression. It's rather more urbane and quite apart from the reputation for precociousness that the Harry Potter franchise ? fairly or not ? has foisted upon her."As I've got older, and since I cut all my hair off, I've felt a bit more liberated about trying different things out," she smiles, when I suggest she has successfully shaken off the fetters of having played a gawky teenage witch for a decade. "I think there's this idea that lipstick is something quite old or something you'd only wear at night. The nice thing about these is that they're really translucent, like a tinted lip balm, so you can wear them in a more casual way."If she sounds like a professional, that's because she has been one for the majority of her 21 years. Picked from thousands to play Hermione Granger at the age of nine, after eight auditions for producer David Heyman, Watson is now ? eight films later ? rumoured to be worth ￡43m. She signed a contract with Lancome in April to feature in the commercial for its Tresor Midnight Rose fragrance, and has been at Selfridges all day to promote the brand's latest launch of lipstick and nail varnish."Make-up is actually something I've always really loved," she continues. "The hair and make-up department on the Potter films were the people who saw me first thing in the morning and last thing at night, so that space was somewhere I felt at home. When we had spare time on set, I'd do their make-up and get them to teach me how to do stuff." Make-up artist on the films Amanda Knight remembers Watson making up extras for crowd scenes, too, but Watson has today left it to the professionals. "I haven't had my make-up done for two or three months," she says, as if expecting me to say, "No way!" I raise my eyebrows and she laughs. "I know! But it's really weird for me because I used to have it done every day. So it felt like a treat today."She refers regularly to privileges and treats, to feeling lucky and counting her blessings, and she doesn't seem troubled or distracted by the host of opportunities available to her. She is studying English at Oxford, on a secondment from the American Ivy League campus Brown."It's just given me time, really," she says. "People use their time at university and at school, which I didn't have, to really think about and figure out what they want to do, and who they want to be. And it's been so nice not to be pushed around or pushed into doing things."In fact, Watson has carefully peppered her career with choices that pertain very closely to her own interests, putting her name to a collection for eco-fashion range People Tree as well as partnering with designer Alberta Ferretti to work on a "Pure Threads" ethical line too. Her next film, The Perks of Being a Wallflower, will be released later this year. She paints and reads books. She has, she tells me guiltily, a university essay to hand in the next day, not yet finished."Doing the Potters was such a bubble," she says, "and then having to figure out how to function in the real world has been a challenge. But it's been the small successes for me: I know how to use a washing machine, I can cook. It's worth it to me not to feel disconnected from everything, feeling like I'm in touch with people who do other things than acting or being in the entertainment industry."In a few hours, she will host the Lancome pre-Baftas party, posing in a crimson lace Valentino dress for the world's cameras. But for the moment, she has her bare feet hooked up underneath her and is fiddling with her BlackBerry; she looks at the basil plant poking out of my shopping bag and wonders what I'm having for dinner. She is terribly normal ? if elfishly beautiful ? in her rendition of a well-brought-up young woman."I think humour has been a help," she says. "I have schoolfriends, a group of people around me, who have carried me through this whole experience and aren't fazed if they ask, 'Oh what are you doing tomorrow?' and I say, 'I'm going up to see Mario [Testino] in Notting Hill, he's shooting me for the new Lancome campaign.' I don't know ? it is mad, and some days I feel a bit mad, but it's the balance that keeps me sane. I don't fully live it, this side of my life."Watson is sanguine about the attention she receives and is logical about it; she plans to travel more now that she has a more lax schedule, and talks about going to the post office, buying milk, getting the Tube, though I can't believe for a minute that she is actually able to do these things fuss-free. "Some days, for some reason, I can't go anywhere and I'm like, 'That was a mistake,' and other days no one will even notice me."There was a time, though, towards the end of the Potter franchise, when Watson came of age and began appearing on front rows at shows such as Chanel and Burberry, in whose billboard campaigns she featured along with her younger brother in 2009. "I was fully game for 'Throw me in this, throw me in that,'" she admits, "but I'd like to develop my own sense of style, and dress for myself. The press destroyed me over this Rodarte dress I once wore ? it was bright blue with chains on it." She laughs and shivers slightly. "I loved it. And I wore a leather Christopher Kane dress with embroidered flowers all over it. It wasn't that crazy, but at the time..."She seems to have ridden out the post-Potter publicity admirably, though. "Fashion gave me a chance to feel like I was something outside of Potter," she explains, of her appearances front row at shows such as Chanel and Burberry. "I'm a multidimensional person and that's the freedom of fashion: that you're able to reinvent yourself through how you dress and how you cut your hair or whatever."Her haircut was, of course, an international sensation, and turned into a global debate. Was it a good idea, did she regret it, why did she do it? Watson faced compliments and criticism in equal measure, staggeringly so. This was more than the average celeb 'do and more like a cultural event: Potter fans were horrified, while the fashion industry discreetly applauded the severing of Hermione's bookish locks."I had journalists asking me if this meant I was coming out, if I was a lesbian now." She rolls her eyes. "That haircut did make me realise how subjective everyone's opinion is. Some people were crazy for it and some people just thought I'd lost my shit. All I can do is follow my instincts, because I'll never please everyone."?1. Wooden shoe lasts, ￡49.95, Selfridges; purple patterned socks, ￡17, Paul Smith; Duchamp multi-striped socks, ￡16.95, Harrods; oval frame, ￡11, and square frame, ￡9, John Lewis2. Hugo Guinness for Coach billfolds, ￡130 each, Coach3. Burberry Prorsum duffel coat with detachable hood, ￡1,895, Selfridges4. Mr Chocolate moustaches, ￡4.99, Selfridges5. Anatomica 8-inch plate, ￡50, National Gallery shop6. Marni polka-dot cashmere scarf, ￡395, Mr Porter7. 'Crazy Clown Time', David Lynch, ￡8.99, Amazon8. Loewe Airplay speakers, ￡649 each, Selfridges9. Jansen mug, ￡10.50, Liberty10. Ties, ￡60 each, Brian Clarke11. Green Cycloc bicycle storage, ￡61, Bodie & Fou12. Etre Fivepoint texting gloves, ￡40, Selfridges13. Cuben cushion by Simon C Page, ￡39, This is a Limited Edition14. House of Holland pants, ￡21 each, Selfridges15. Folk ruck bobble hat, ￡65, Liberty16. Chuck Taylor All Star Hi, ￡81, Converse17. '@earth' by Peter Kennard and Tarek Salhany, ￡9.99, Tate shop18. Washed holdall, ￡38, NextClick the links below to view the gift guides?The two women preside over modern textiles and fashion, and 20th century fashion there respectively. This is indeed an exhibition that lifts the spirits and that is ultimately as light-hearted as many of the designs included display lightness of touch. It is also the place to go to see some of the biggest, boldest, most beautiful and, at times, most crazed party dresses imaginable.Take as prime example of the latter Cindy Beadman's late 1970s gown and accompanying coat, a fondant-hued extravaganza that comes complete with tiny quilted princess in her tower on its bodice, many, many sugar-pink roses here, there and everywhere, and even a hand-embroidered silver fairytale at the hem. "They lived happily ever after in the land of eternal youth" reads its hemline in suitably curvaceous ? and just marginally sinister ? script. American-born Beadman lived the dream in rural Oxfordshire apparently, Cullen explains, and the dress in question was worn by Anita Harris way back when. Worthy of Grayson Perry at his most hyper-feminine, it is perhaps the greatest example of designer folly in evidence. And given the premise, that is quite something. No less attention-seeking ? though fierce over and above purely frivolous ? is Zandra Rhodes' enormous gold lame design with pleated panniers and ruffles the size of elephant ears. Dated 1981, it is the sartorial embodiment of a Ferrero Rocher chocolate, if you will, courtesy of one of Britain's most flamboyant talents.Ossie Clarke's gold leather jacket and corset, paired with an ultraviolet lace skirt, is another example of this country's affinity with peacock dressing and with rule breaking, too. Whatever, these are not clothes that are aimed at the shy.The show is the first to be located in the museum's newly redesigned fashion gallery. Around 100 outfits from the museum's permanent collection are presented chronologically around its circumference and they are testimony, if ever any were needed, that there's nothing like a short, sharp edit to make fashion history sing. Around 50 per cent of the ballgowns in the show are owned by the V&A also and the rest have been lent or donated by hardened ballgown lovers from Joan Collins (a pastel-pink, flower-strewn meringue designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel) to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (more narrow and contemporary: Burberry, Antonio Berardi).The first floor is dedicated to the history of this work-intensive garment from the 1950s through to the mid-Noughties, taking in names including Worth London, Hardy Amies, Victor Stiebel, Yuki, Bill Gibb, John Cavanagh and Catherine Walker. The latter designer's high-collared white satin "Elvis" jacket and gown, hand-embroidered with tens of thousands of oyster pearls and made for the Princess of Wales, is all present and correct, for example. These are shown in a collection of vitrines that evoke the relatively demure and quaint environment of the dressing room of a young woman of means.As well as the aforementioned outre looks, there's a comparatively quiet loveliness to a bell-shaped gown designed by Norman Hartnell for the Queen Mother in 1953. (Hartnell famously designed the Queen's Coronation gown.) This one's embroidered with jewelled, cornflower blue blossom and has panels of pleated tulle at the shoulder to ensure ma'am's upper arms are presented in the most pleasing way possible. It demonstrates the ability of a truly great dressmaker to both show consideration to the wearer and to crowd-please on a grand scale in one fell swoop.According to Cullen, the overblown skirt that for the most part dominates, and that was upheld by this Royal Family member from the 1930s onwards in particular, was achieved post-crinoline by sewing as many layers of net into a waistline as it could accommodate. It is favoured both for its princessy connotations and because "it is a chance for a designer to make a statement ? it's a blank canvas [a very large blank canvas] upon which they can showcase their expertise," she says.There is an unashamed nostalgia to the look. "That romantic tendency is very British," Cullen argues, "and it's somehow different to the sophistication of Paris designs." It's true that there is an innocence to more traditional pieces such as these that harks back to a time when young debutantes came out for "the season" in the hope of meeting suitable husbands and were presented at court in strapless white puffs of dresses and the requisite long evening gloves (also white) should anyone think too much flesh was exposed.Dame Vivienne Westwood's riposte to such a studiously virginal wardrobe is more wanton and no less wonderful for that. Her "debutante" dress dated 1994 has a signature corset proudly on display and a shredded hem as if our heroine has struggled over hill and dale battling against the elements to meet her beau.In fact, Westwood's sensibility and wit clearly paves the way for many of the designs on the mezzanine floor ? or for the duration of this show, "the ballroom" ? that date from 2005 to the present and showcase the modern ballgown which, following in the footsteps of the grande dame of British fashion, upholds many of the requirements of formal dress all while subverting them.Giles Deacon's pleated silk "carwash" dress (2007) rubs shoulders with a body-conscious floor-length gown constructed out of loops of silver leather by Gareth Pugh especially for the show. Then there's Atsuko Kudo's fetishistic latex snakeskin-print dress to consider; a feathered design made by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen and worn by Daphne Guinness to the 2011 Costume Institute Ball; a Stella McCartney gown with a bifurcated skirt sported by Annette Bening to the Golden Globes and the Jacques Azagury ensemble chosen by Helen Mirren when she picked up the Oscar for Best Actress for her performance in The Queen.Despite including the odd red-carpet moment, this is less amplified exhibition than many of the recent international fashion blockbusters. That is not least because the latter are largely paid for by the fashion behemoths whose work they celebrate, somewhat lessening their impact in terms of academic value. Ballgowns is sponsored by Coutts and it is positively frugal by comparison. The effect is refreshing in its lack of bombast, whether that is intentional or not, and also apposite. Because if there is a single unifying factor to the show it may be found in a sense that the majority of the gowns on display here have their own stories and were worn and loved by the people for whom they were made. And that, it almost goes without saying, is a million miles away from the here today/gone tomorrow spirit that contemporary fashion all too often represents even at it is and all the more charming for that."That's another facet of the British ballgown," Cullen agrees. "These things were worn and worn."Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, Victoria & Albert Museum, May 19 to January 2013; vam.ac.uk'Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950', edited by Oriole Cullen and Sonnet Stanfill, ￡20 V&A Publishing, is out now?Ms Hill, who joined Mulberry in March 2008 after stints with Marks & Spencer and Burberry, was appointed CBE.Her efforts had previously earned her Best Accessories Designer at the 2011 Elle Style Awards and Best Designer Brand at the 2010 British Fashion Awards.Burton, who designed the gown of Prince William's bride, was appointed OBE. After much speculation, she was chosen to take over from her mentor Alexander McQueen, who died in 2010.She promised to stay true to his legacy, crediting him with teaching her everything she knew."Everything I know I learned here. If you didn't know how to do something, Lee made you take on the challenge and would teach you how, or leave you to figure out how to do it yourself."He once handed over a bias-cut houndstooth dress and said, 'Now, put a zip in it', then left for the weekend," she once said of McQueen.?It is, but not in the way you might assume. A spate of recent openings in the capital is proof of how fashion brands are adapting to compete with the rise of online convenience by fitting their premises out with technological gadgetry that promises to make shopping there an experience well worth the effort."Many luxury brands have been reluctant to embrace new technologies as their values rest on craftsmanship and tradition," explains Olivia Solon, associate editor of Wired magazine. "But a new breed of creative technologists and interaction designers are showing that circuit boards and pixels can be beautiful and aspirational as well as functional and ubiquitous." It depends to which theory you subscribe: that being in a shop makes you more likely to spend, or that the ease of one-click purchasing is more liable to make you profligate.Either way, businesses must come up with increasingly complex ? not to mention entertaining ? ways of parting us from our cash. The new Burberry store on London's Regent Street is a monument to the brand's 156-year history as a heritage supplier of traditional outerwear. But alongside the pomp and circumstance sits some of the high-spec tech that the brand has become famous for recently. The 44,000 sq ft space houses 500 speakers and 100 screens, which feature brand imagery and catwalk videos, but will come into their own at in-store gigs and live-streamed fashion shows."Regent Street is one of the most architecturally and culturally significant projects we have undertaken," says Christopher Bailey, the label's chief creative officer, "bringing our physical and digital worlds together to create amazing experiences that encompass everything from fashion, to heritage, to music."The aim is make customers feel like they are physically within the brand's website. If that sounds slightly oppressive, think of it this way: shopping in this store feels like the future as you imagined it as a child.The old-school luxury is there (but of course) with added extras. Mirrors morph into video screens as you approach and at certain times of day, they screen rain showers within the store as part of an exciting immersion exercise; one that will, Burberry hopes, subliminally encourage you to buy one of their famous trenches.Bring an item close to one of the mirrors and the screen shifts automatically to give you a 360-degree view of it. Sure, you could just turn it over in your hands ? but who wants that when you can have it projected 15-feet high? Take a jacket into one of the changing rooms and an auto-sensory tag inside directs the mirror to show you it with zoom-able details, or as it was worn in the catwalk show. That might mean seeing how a 7ft-tall 19-year-old looked in it, but what's self-esteem compared to feeling a bit like Tom Cruise in Minority Report?"It can be a bit gimmicky and tacky," says Olivia Solon, "but luxury brands seem to be extremely conscious of this ? it very much depends on the execution." In Mayfair, a three-storey Georgian townhouse has recently been refurbished as the flagship store of McQ, Alexander McQueen's sister label. In the window, painstakingly embroidered, full-skirted tulle and applique dresses stand as testament to the house's commitment to atelier-level workmanship, while inside a raft of whizzy electronic devices are just as indicative of its progressive mindset.Placing magnetic frames onto a touch-screen table allows you to explore the label's lookbooks and catwalk imagery; with one drag and flick, you can "throw" pictures onto a floor-to-ceiling screen on the wall opposite to either watch the show or see outfits in glorious technicolor. If there's something you particularly like, you can email it to yourself or your friends, or share it on Facebook or Twitter, with another few swipes. And all the while, you can pretend you're manning the Starship Enterprise.We wanted to create a story and a home for McQ," explains McQueen's creative director Sarah Burton. "The store offers special catwalk pieces alongside ready-to-wear collections in a rich, immersive environment."The mens- and womenswear floors boast interactive mirrors, which switch from slideshows to giant cameras when you step in front of them. Try on some of this season's Blackwatch tartan, snap yourself and email it to your friends to get their opinion on whether to buy it or not. It builds on the fact most people are taking these kinds of shots on their phones behind the curtains anyway ? only this time, you do it on the shop floor. But if you're posting the picture on Facebook, chances are you're no shrinking violet.While these installations are undeniably fun, it remains to be seen how efficacious they might be at pulling us out of our spending slump. But they make being inside a store more exciting and will go some way towards making customers feel valued as visitors rather than mere cash-cows. The digital aspects of these new stores are as much part of a branding exercise as they are about gathering data from social media, widening appeal or luring you in.That's the logic behind the interactive screen at Bond Street's newly revamped DKNY store. In keeping with the youthful spirit of Donna Karan's diffusion line, the brand already has quite an online presence and focus. Its Twitter feed, DKNY PR Girl, was the first of many to make use of a more personal, witty and insider approach that genuinely interests followers much more than the hard sell ever could.In the store, you can use a large touchscreen wall to access the PR Girl blog and Twitter and find out more about what she has been up to, and you can watch back the runway footage from the label's biannual shows in Manhattan. For a brand that is rooted so firmly in Big Apple culture, seeing the clothes in their original habitat gives a new context to the versions hanging up around you.These high-end brands are at the forefront of shopping in a digital world, but it won't be long until the technology makes its way to a high street near you. Several stores already provide iPads so you can check their stock more easily; in 2010, Topshop, working with Nick Knight's visionary SHOWstudio site, held a series of sessions where customers looked in a webcam mirror and received live-chat feedback on their look from a selection of fashion experts.Whatever comes next (dressing a hologram of yourself from the comfort of the cafe, perhaps?), our love of shopping and passion for gadgets is bound to result in an ever more personalised shopping experience, which suit even the pickiest of fashion palettes.?In a surprise update, the group revealed it had been hit by a slowdown in spending across the world. The darling of the fashion scene had once enjoyed sales growth in double digits, but yesterday it reported that like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to 8 September, and its full year profits would be at the bottom end of expectations at about ￡407m.Retail sales, including from new stores, were up 6 per cent. The slowdown compares with a strong first quarter, when retail sales grew by 14 per cent. The chief financial officer Stacey Cartwright said: "In the last two weeks there has been a global slowdown. We have seen this across the board in Asia, the US, Europe and the UK."Luca Solca, a luxury brands expert at CA Chevreux, blamed Burberry's reliance on very high-end clothing rather than accessories such as handbags. He said: "Apparel ? on which Burberry is more dependent than other mega-brands ? is softer. In difficult times consumers prefer leather goods and hard luxury accessories as they are more visible and work better as status symbols."Ms Cartwright said: "The level of growth has slowed but for most people 6 per cent growth would be very good."Despite its issues, the brand is gearing up for London Fashion Week, where it will present its Burberry Prorsum womenswear spring/summer show on Monday.Burberry's shares crashed 287p to 1,088p.?He also lost his own label, only days before shows for both were staged. Everyone from Karl Lagerfeld to Natalie Portman (among the faces of Dior) was quick to condemn the designer, who, in September, was found guilty on both charges. Those who witnessed the extraordinary workings of his mind couldn't help but mourn his departure from a position that he lit up with his wild imaginings.2. Art attackThe gap between high and low culture continued to narrow as Yves Saint Laurent's Stefano Pilati dressed the cast of Harold Pinter's Betrayal for Ian Rickson's production at London's Comedy Theatre in June. Kristin Scott Thomas, Douglas Henshall and Ben Miles all wore his designs. In November, Louis Vuitton unveiled a trunk created in collaboration with Grayson Perry, with his bear Alan Measles ? or at least a stunt double ? in pride of place. LV is the title sponsor of Perry's ongoing British Museum show.3. Harsh wordsIn March Hermes CEO Patrick Thomas accused LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) president Bernard Arnault of "rape", when it was revealed that the latter had acquired a 20 per cent stake of his label. In an uncharacteristically exasperated moment in the history of a venerable status name, Thomas said: "If you want to seduce a beautiful woman, you don't start by raping her from behind." That same month, Christophe Lemaire took over from Jean-Paul Gaultier as creative director of Hermes womenswear and showed his first collection there.4. Happy birthdayOn 8 April, Vivienne Westwood turned 70. Gucci celebrated its 90th birthday with the opening of a Gucci museum in its hometown of Florence in September. The Marc by Marc Jacobs collection was born a decade ago this year as was designer Peter Jensen's eponymous label ? a book was published to commemorate the event in the autumn, and last month Jensen staged a retrospective fashion show at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Dazed & Confused is now 20, meanwhile. Another book (Making It Up As We Go Along, published by Rizzoli) and an exhibition of pioneering photographic work (at Somerset House, central London) marked this anniversary.5. There went the bridesWhile Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton denied claims that she would be dressing Catherine Middleton for her marriage to Prince William, on 27 April she was spotted entering the Gore Hotel in Kensington where the Middletons spent the night before the wedding and the truth was out. The gown was received as a thing of great and suitably modest beauty the world over. No one could ever accuse Kim Kardashian of modesty. Kardashian commissioned no less than three wedding dresses for her marriage to Kris Humphreys on 20 August, all by Vera Wang. Wang has since designed affordable copies for lesser mortals and due to go on sale in February, some time after Ms Kardashian filed for divorce, then, which is romantic. Her marriage lasted just 72 days. Another Kate ? Ms Moss ? got married too, to long-time partner, Jamie Hince, on 2 July and wearing an ivory bias-cut slip made for her by John Galliano.6. The rumour millEven before Galliano had officially parted company with Dior, the rumour mill began turning regarding his successor. Until recently, Marc Jacobs, creative director of Louis Vuitton, was considered to be frontrunner, but it is now believed that Raf Simons is the main contender. Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton and Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquiere have also been cited as in the frame. While LVMH continues its search, Galliano's long-time first assistant designer, Bill Gaytten has taken over his signature line and is also caretaker at Dior.7. Ruby slippersOn 8 April, it emerged that shoemaker to the stars, Christian Louboutin, was suing Yves Saint Laurent for using a red sole to match the upper of a new-season suede pump. Louboutin trademarked his signature sole in 2008 and asked YSL to withdraw the offending item. "M Louboutin is the first designer to develop the idea of having red soles on women's shoes," his lawsuit stated. Attorneys acting on behalf of Yves Saint Laurent responded: "Red outsoles are a commonly used ornamental design feature in footwear, dating as far back as the red shoes worn by King Louis XIV in the 1600s and the ruby red shoes that carried Dorothy home in The Wizard of Oz." On 10 August, at the preliminary hearing in New York, Judge Victor Marrero took such flamboyancy one step further, denying the injunction and comparing the case to a hypothetical one in which Picasso sued Monet for using the colour blue. Louboutin's lawyers have said that they will keep fighting.8. Going GagaLady Gaga took to the Paris catwalk for her friend and collaborator Nicola Formichetti's debut show for Thierry Mugler on 3 March and the media went into overdrive. It's been a busy year for Formichetti elsewhere too. Since Jil Sander's departure from Uniqlo (her final collection is in store now), he has been appointed fashion director of the Japanese high-street giant's Innovation Project while Naoki Takisawa, formerly of Issey Miyake, is its new design director. Formichetti also curated a series of T-shirts for Uniqlo ? designed by Gaga again, Alber Elbaz, Karl Lagerfeld and more ? to raise money for those affected by the earthquake in Japan.9. High fliersOn 17 June, Prada floated on the Hong Kong stock exchange. Any interest was generated not least because it demanded full disclosure from the business, which hitherto had the luxury of keeping any figures to itself. And so it emerged that Miuccia Prada and her husband and Prada Group CEO Patrizio Bertelli earned ?10m and ?9.7m the previous year respectively, making them among the most highly paid figures in fashion.10. Alexander the greatSavage Beauty ? an Alexander McQueen retrospective ? opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York on 4 May and broke all attendance levels. The show was extended for a week in August to accommodate as many visitors as possible. McQueen's contemporary, Hussein Chalayan, was also honoured with an exhibition, this time at Paris's Les Arts Decoratifs ? Mode et Textile that opened at the beginning of July.11. Back to schoolIn September, the ￡200m Central Saint Martins redevelopment opened its doors at Granary Square, King's Cross. For the first time in the college's history, students from the fine art, graphics, fashion, drama and performance departments gathered under one enormous roof ? there's a massive 10 acres of floor space. The most famous fashion college in the world now has a working environment to match.12. Cool BritanniaTom Ford now thinks London Fashion Week is high-profile enough to be home to his twice-yearly women's ready-to-wear show ? he unveiled his summer collection in the British fashion capital in September. If ever there was a year when this all-too-often beleaguered event exceeded all expectations then 2011 was surely it. Unprecedented attendance levels, not to mention talent that, like Meadham Kirchhoff's, more than lives up to the hype that surrounds it notwithstanding , Italy's Camera Nazionale della Moda has fixed its autumn 2012 collection dates in direct conflict with those of the British collections. The Huffington Post described this turn of events as "The Battle of the Catwalks" as, despite increased pressure from all sides, Milan's designer superpowers have refused so far to budge.13. Viva VersaceThere's nothing like a well-judged collaboration and 2011 has seen its fair share. Top of the list must be Versace for H&M, a baroque extravaganza that went on sale on 18 November ? La Versace went so far as to make a personal appearance at the chain's Regent Street store. The collection sold out in a matter of days and was so successful there's more to come next year. Christopher Kane's line for J Brand, which launched in November, was an equally impressive coup, featuring candy coloured denim with fashionably frayed edges, courtesy of British fashion's designer du jour. Also of note this year has been Opening Ceremony's link-ups with MM6, Rodarte, Chloe Sevigny, Pendleton and more, and M.A.C's with Cindy Sherman, Gareth Pugh and Miss Piggy. Soon to come is the make-up brand's Daphne Guinness collection. Ms Guinness also launched a fragrance ? named Daphne ? with Comme des Garcons in September.14. Bear necessitiesWhoever said the fashion industry has no heart? In November, some of this world's main protagonists gave Pudsey Bear a makeover. Erdem, Louis Vuitton, Topshop, Giles Deacon, Pringle, Mulberry and Liberty were just some of the names who took part and bears were auctioned online to raise money for Children in Need. Vuitton's Pudsey (designed by Kim Jones, named Louis Vuitton's menswear director in March) went for a massive ￡35,600, putting any competition, however well-intentioned, into the shade.15. Great British brandNever a brand to miss a trick as far as digital innovation is concerned, at London Fashion Week in September Burberry gave the world its first ever "tweetwalk" ? every exit appeared on Twitter moments before it made it on to the catwalk proper. Also of note, several key looks in the collection went on sale online immediately after they were shown ? normally even the most fashion obsessed consumer would have to wait a good six months to buy them. More generally, and despite global recession, this much-loved British label continued to post figures that are surely the envy of its esteemed competitors the world over.Fashion AwardsThe 2011 British Fashion Awards took place on 28 November at the Savoy Hotel. And the winners were...Designer of the Year: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueenIsabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Sam GainsburyNew Establishment Award: Christopher KaneRed Carpet Award: Stella McCartneyDesigner Brand: Victoria BeckhamMenswear Designer: Kim JonesAccessory Designer: Charlotte OlympiaOutstanding Achievement Award: Paul SmithModel of the Year: Stella TennantBritish Style Award (voted for by the British public): Alexa ChungThe contribution to fashion of stylist and editor-in-chief of LOVE magazine, Katie Grand, was acknowledged when, on 27 October, she received the Wall Street Journal Fashion Innovator Award. Grand was in elevated company. Ai Weiwei (art), Bjarke Ingels (architecture), Steve Ells (food), Elon Musk (technology), Joris Laarman (design) and The Giving Pledge (philanthropy) were among those also awarded gongs by the paper.The Way We WoreLooks we loved...Block colour (best at Jil Sander). Neon (Miu Miu and Christopher Kane). Pleats (that Whistles skirt). Androgyny (everywhere from Stella McCartney to Chanel and all over the high street too). Fetish (leather leggings and Louis Vuitton latex and handcuffs). Theyskens Theory (what's not to want?). Baseball jackets (Isabel Marant's spawned a million imitations). Polka dots (so Rive Gauche). Duffel coats (think Paddington Bear). Flats (finally running is fashionable). Glitter shoes (Dorothy lives and breathes). Knee boots (in leather, rubber, wedge, spike or flat-heeled). Practical bags (from the Celine cabas to the Cambridge Company's satchels).And weren't so sure about...Victoriana (a nice idea but so last century). Gap flares (we tried ? and failed). Fruit prints (Prada's bananas were a timely ruse but grapefruits took things a step too far). Designer star prints (over before they had even started so easy were they for the high street to emulate). Navajo (the meaningless appropriation of faraway styles is less than desirable).Launches to remember...Prada costume jewellery (so true to the first lady of fashion's personal style). Make-up ranges from Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana (what could be more glamorous?). No. 19 Poudre (a lovely new interpretation) of the original scent. Chanel Peridot (the green/gold nail colour of the year). Jonathan Saunders menswear (chic but not cheap). Current Elliott menswear (now boys can wear the most beautifully worn denim too). Eres London (the finest swimwear in the world now has its own London home).And forget...Lanvin childrenswear (although we hate to say it, cuteness can go too far). Lip transfers (the last word in over-embellishment). Fe jeans (sitting on silicone implants seemed like a good idea at the time but then it didn't).And so farewell...Elizabeth Taylor, Loulou de la Falaise, Francois Lesage and Evelyn Lauder.?Now this visionary is being touted as the new chairman of the British Fashion Council. If confirmed, Massenet, 47, will take over from businessman Harold Tillman, formerly of Jaeger and Aquascutum, who has raised the profile of the body ? and of its biannual shows in the capital ? to an international level.Massenet's portfolio boasts not only the site that made her rich and famous, but two other websites, The Outnet, where customers can buy past-season designer clothing at a discount, and Mr Porter, an upmarket menswear e-boutique, as well as a print and online magazine. Massenet ? who remains Net-a-Porter's executive chairman ? sold her founding stake in the company in 2010 to the Swiss luxury goods group Richemont for a reported ￡50m. Did we mention that she's terribly glamorous, too?Born in 1965 to a Californian journalist and a British model, she moved between Paris, LA and Madrid as a child, before settling in the US with her father. "I was surrounded by some very wealthy people," she told Vogue in 2010. "I realised at a certain point that if I was going to have the sort of life I fantasised about, I needed to get my act together. No one was going to do it for me." Before establishing Net-a-Porter, she worked as a fashion journalist for W, Women's Wear Daily and Tatler, and as an assistant to the late Isabella Blow at The Sunday Times.Her rumoured arrival as head of the BFC is telling. Massenet is forward-thinking and professionally astute. She is also an international figure, whose nous and experience mean she is taken seriously for all she has achieved and pioneered in the past 12 years.Gone are the days when London Fashion Week was a commercial backwater, more full of enfants terribles than entrepreneurs. These days, designers such as Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and JW Anderson head up young talents who deliver both the goods and the city's signature dash of cool, while international powerhouse Burberry moved its show back to London from Milan as part of Fashion Week's 25th anniversary celebrations in 2009.So, if Massenet takes the helm at the BFC, the industry can expect London, and British fashion, to be even more loud and proud. Even if we are really rather jealous of her.?Norsa has a duty to his employer, and its famous clients, to make sure its shops look as beautiful as the well-crafted clothes, shoes and leather goods that they sell. Ferragamo, shoemaker to the stars, counted Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo among its fans and has just hired British supermodel Kate Moss as its "face" for this autumn.Norsa is visiting the Old Bond Street store ? which has been home to Salvatore Ferragamo for 74 years ? after paying what is thought to be the UK's top rent, estimated to be ￡1000 per square foot for the most important part of the shop, to renegotiate a bigger store and longer lease. No wonder he wants it to look its best."London is very important to us. It is growing very fast and we have shoppers from all over the world who come here."Tanned, smiling and impeccably dressed in Ferragamo, Norsa is clearly at home on the shop floor in spite of years in the board room of companies including Sergio Tacchini and Valentino. As he justifies the top rent Ferragamo is paying, he is surveying his emporium of Italian style ? from the new lights to the menswear floor."We have made the store 60 per cent bigger. London's rent is going up, of course, but it is fair. We were able to take a long view and invest in the store. Bond Street will be here forever and we want to make sure we keep this beautiful store," he says.But it isn't just Bond Street that has had a makeover. Its other London spot ? Sloane Street will double its floor space this year over three floors ? to give more space for the ￡350 Vara bow heels or the ￡2300 python skin handbag.London is just one of Ferragamo's important global "flagship" cities. Three new stores are planned for China this year to add to its 320-plus outlets. The luxury goods obsession with giant, shiny new stores to showcase growing collections is now a global phenomenon with identikit Prada or Louis Vuitton stores from Sloane Street to Sao Paulo. And now Ferragamo's expansion is being closely watched by investors after its listing in Milan just over a year ago.Norsa, having spent most of his career at family-owned companies in Italy, joined Ferragamo in 2006 ? the first non-family chief executive. He took over from Ferruccio Ferragamo, the eldest son of Salvatore, who is now chairman. It was the first step in modernising the group. The family shareholding is complex. Salvatore Ferragamo had six children and Ferruccio also has six; there are a total of twenty-three grandchildren.The family decided to sell a 25 per cent stake ? to raise money for expansion and free up capital for some of the family. And for Norsa "working for a listed company is a nice challenge."At the time of deciding to go public, the markets ran wild with rumours that the family were looking at following fellow Italian fashion brand Prada to Hong Kong. But Norsa says: "Italy is part of our DNA. You can get all the advantages that you can get anywhere. And being listed in Italy doesn't mean we do not have investors from elsewhere. We have many overseas investors." Indeed Peter Woo, a Honk Kong-based businessman who owns a stake in Ferragamo, became a board member.Making sure the company is synonymous with Italy means every single item ? bar the Swiss-made watch parts ? is made in that country.When in the Nineties, clothing manufacturers started moving east for cheaper labour, luxury brands including Prada and Burberry followed the trend with swathes of the business being farmed off to factories in Turkey, Thailand and China. But unlike most of its peers Ferragamo stayed put. "It is a commitment but it is something we truly believe in."The decision by some brands to move production from their home countries is still having repercussions today with a renewed consumer backlash at some brands.Norsa has seen first-hand the factories that England used to be proud of. "I have visited these factories in Scotland and in England. Now people recognise the value of knowing where something is made. It is now very important for the shopper to know where and how it is made." The growth of luxury brands in the Chinese market has been fuelled by a desire to buy something which is "made in Europe".Ferragamo is not quite as old as French brands Louis Vuitton or the Hermes but it certainly has a vivid archive. Having started life as a shoemaker in a small room in Florence in 1927, it now has a market capitalisation of ￡2.6bn, selling everything from leather goods and watches to perfumes and ready-to-wear for men and women. It is one of the best known classic luxury brands ? known for comfort and style.The history is important but it is Norsa's job to make sure his creative director ? Massimiliano Giornetti ? keeps the brand relevant."We have been very good at keeping the heritage through to the present. But through events, marketing, social media and digital we have to make sure we stay in touch with our customers. People want to be in touch with the brand."The strategy has paid off so far. Last year revenues were up 26 per cent to ?986.5m (￡629m) and will update the market with its first half results for 2012, this month.Ferragamo's rich Italian history might be in vogue with consumers in Asia, but the region's growth spurt could be losing steam. Fears of a Chinese economic slowdown are causing shares in luxury goods brands to fall and the likes of Hugo Boss and Burberry have reported slower growth in the region.But Norsa is sure growth will continue. "We are still seeing significant growth. Of course there are concerns on the future but … reassuringly we have seen Chinese consumer confidence is still strong," says Norsa. "And there are still so many Chinese consumers who are only just making their very first step into luxury."China's luxury shoppers join Brazilians, Arabs and Russians in Bond Street and Norsa is reeling off the nationalities which visit his London stores. "Here in London we have something very unusual. Nigerians are in our top three."We have to make sure we have every size available for the different types of people who shop with us. And now we know exactly when Ramadan, Chinese New Year and Russia's Orthodox celebrations are."With Bond Street a hot spot for the travelling global wealthy, Norsa's shopkeeping nous is paying off.?According to website MyVoucherCodes.co.uk, a quarter of those with a secret stash were keeping the money aside because they were worried their partner would try to spend it.Having an emergency cash reserve may seem like a good idea, but hiding it from your partner is not the recipe for a loving relationship. Andrew Swallow, an adviser with Swallow Financial Planning in Kensington, London, believes that if you are keeping money secret from a partner you need to assess what kind of relationship you are in. "A couple who are in it for the long-term will have shared goals, such as buying a home together, which require honesty," he said."You need to be honest with yourself and your partner. If you are in a couple but you know your relationship is not going to last the distance, then keep your finances separate. But if you are with someone, and know the relationship is going somewhere, then you are best off having a talk sooner rather than later."Shared financial goals can only benefit a relationship, he believes. Once you've established you are in a committed relationship, then the most romantic thing you can do is pay a trip to the solicitor ? particularly if you don't intend to get married."If you are buying any substantial asset together such as a house, and you are not married, then the brutal truth is that you both need to make a will," says Swallow. "If your partner dies and you are not married, and you have no will, then you could find yourself in a financial mess, your partner's family could have a claim on the property and you could be forced to sell to pay inheritance tax."If you are not married and your partner dies, then you may have to pay inheritance tax, a tax of 40 per cent on a property worth ￡325,000 or more. Significantly, you don't benefit from the couple's IHT allowance, which allows you to own a property worth up to ￡650,000.Of course, it's not about simply being married. You may have substantial assets and/or you've been in a previous relationship in which you had children. In this case a will is necessary as well as a pre-nuptial agreement ? a legal document which sets out who gets what if you split up. "Pre-nups are not yet recognised in law but courts will take them into account. Of course they are not cheap to draw up, so you need to see a specialist family solicitor," adds Swallow.Kate Marsden, an adviser with Very Nice Advice in Cookham, Berkshire, points out that there are other advantages to being married or in a civil partnership. Couples who are married, or civil partners, can usually transfer assets to each other without having to pay any capital gains tax. This is set at 28 per cent of any asset worth over ￡10,600."For example, Peter, who is a higher rate taxpayer, could transfer a whole bunch of dividend-paying shares to Paul, who is a basic-rate taxpayer. That will minimise the tax payable on the dividends. Those in marital difficulties should also be aware that if they separate from their spouse, they can still transfer assets between themselves and their partner in that same tax year, without a capital gains tax liability.""That means if you stop living together early in the tax year, you have a good few months to transfer assets such as second homes, or shares, between yourselves as you work out a financial settlement."And on that topic, she says: "Remember that wills are not rendered null and void on divorce because your ex will be, so to speak, deleted from it. The rest will remain valid. It's worth reviewing."What if you don't want to get married, but still want the financial benefits of being in a couple? Andrew Swallow says an unmarried couple can maximise their finances by setting up a company and paying themselves a salary from it but they would only really benefit if one of them was self employed. "If you are both self-employed and one of you earns more than the other, you can set up a company, in which you are both partners, and can combine your tax allowances. You need to get expert advice but setting up the company is relatively easy."Combining finances on a big scale, such as buying a property or setting up a company together is all very well, but many couples find the financial nitty-gritty of life, such as paying bills, or even deciding who should pay them, may turn out to be a financial flashpoint.Kim Stephenson, a psychologist and author of Taming the Pound, says all couples are unique and need to find a financial framework that works for them.He explains: "If you are both independent, you may need to have separate finances, but for the relationship to work, and to make sure the gas bill gets paid, then you need to either split things down the middle or divvy up who pays what between you and stick to it."For most people, he says, having a joint account for the major bills into which they both pay most of their money, with individual accounts that allow individual "pocket money", works the best. "You need to sit down and decide are toys for the baby, dry cleaning bills, gadgets for the car, basic clothing, joint expenses or individual ones. Are all clothes individual expenses, or only really impractical ones."You can buy presents for one another out of 'your own' money, but what about treats for both of you? Is a luxury evening out a treat from one of you to the other, or a joint expense? If it is a joint expense, who is responsible for making up the shortfall if you can't pay the mortgage or the joint credit card for essential shopping this month?"So, is that XBox Kinnect (or Burberry handbag) a luxury ? or a household expense you just can't do without?Amanda Whyte is a businesswoman and journalist from London and married to Ian, a management consultant. They have two children. She and her husband like to keep things separate. "We don't have a joint account and we keep our finances as separate as possible. We have talked about [a joint account] but never got round to it."Amanda believes that as long as enough money is coming in to cover the bills, their system works perfectly. "Ian pays the mortgage and the bills. I work three days a week for IPC Media and the childcare comes out of my salary. I also buy most of the stuff for the kids, pay into my pension, buy my own clothes and I finance my own business. We aren't too badly off, but we don't have savings ? apart from our pensions. We both agree that any extra money should be spent on fun things. In fact we've just bought a camper van."?Her marriage is wonderful, she's given up alcohol and from tomorrow she's hosting the nightly 'Strictly' spin-off show 'It Takes Two'?"Discontinuing the association with her is also good PR for Nivea because it allows them to reiterate the values that they don't feel she aspires to," says Claire Beale, editor of Campaign. "Celebrity endorsements give brands an instant value to tap into and if you associate yourself with a big personality you'll instantly gain credibility with all the people that love that celebrity. The problem is celebrities often don't behave themselves."While Rihanna's firing might seem somewhat unwarranted, there are plenty of other celebrities who have given good reason to be dismissed. Both Wrigley and the Milk Processor Education Program (that's the "Got Milk?" campaign to you) quite rightly terminated contracts with R&B performer Chris Brown after he pleaded guilty to assaulting his ex-girlfriend (yep, Rihanna).Fashion labels such as Chanel and Burberry quickly deserted Kate Moss after she was caught on camera allegedly snorting cocaine (although the entire industry has since done a U-turn after realising the supermodel is far too valuable to blacklist). Another star who must regret allegedly dabbling in drugs is Michael Phelps, who had a lucrative deal as the face of Kellogg's (despite everyone knowing that the swimmer chows down fried egg sandwiches, omelettes, French toast and pancakes for breakfast, not a sad little bowl of Corn Flakes). After pictures surfaced of the Olympian apparently puffing on a bong, the two soon parted ways.Infidelity doesn't go down well with big business either. Wayne Rooney was dumped by Coca-Cola and Tiger beer after being caught cheating on a pregnant Coleen, while Tiger Woods' extra-marital escapades cost him not only his wife but deals with Gatorade, AT&T, Accenture and Gillette worth millions (although probably not quite as much as the divorce settlement).And while cheating on partners is not appreciated by sponsors, celebrities should remember not to cheat on the product either. Just last month Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho had his sponsorship deal with Coca-Cola revoked after he turned up at a press conference sipping on a Pepsi. A can of fizzy drink is usually about 60 pence; this one cost ￡500,000.?However, never to the extent of this year.As things stand the Indy's 10 is showing a positive return of 33 per cent. Nine out of 10 of our picks are in the black, with one (Providence Resources) having more than doubled in value.By contrast, the FTSE 100 has basically been treading water. Having finished 2011 at 5,572.28, the index got off to a flyer, but has recently eased back and stood at 5,723.67 at the close of trading on Thursday, producing a positive return of 2.7 per cent.How did we do it? Well, there was more than a bit of gambler's luck in there. When compiling the 10 I always like to include at least one (and sometimes more) really risky tips which have the potential for a big pay-off. Otherwise why bother?This year's was Providence. The Aim-listed oil and gas explorer is focused on offshore Ireland, and began drilling the first of a series of test wells in November to determine whether its Barryroe field, situated in the North Celtic Sea Basin, had commercial quantities of oil.The share price at the time suggested it didn't. That all changed last month when the company revealed it had discovered the first commercially viable well. A placing of new stock did little to dispel the froth making it the biggest winner in the 10 by some way.Providence was a blatant gamble ? there are a myriad of oil explorers listed in London and picking a winner is very much a question of luck. If one of them fails to strike black gold they can easily collapse in value.However, there were other shares which we selected on the basis of sound financial logic, including two picked from a sector that on the face of it shouldn't make a happy hunting ground: retailers.Burberry has gone global and the market has woken up to the potential of its overseas outlets. Meanwhile JD Sports Fashion just looked absurdly cheap based on its earnings multiple. Other investors have taken note and the shares have surged.The same is true of William Hill, even after the hit the bookie took from the Chancellor's imposition of a new gaming machine duty at a swingeing 20 per cent. Hills remains a solid earner with a good yield.Oil services group Amec has been riding the wave of the oil industry's capital expenditure cycle (very much on the upswing) while Rolls-Royce is a hardy perennial which should hold a place in almost any sensible portfolio.Meanwhile Intermediate Capital, a provider of mezzanine finance, a type of debt that sits between bank lending and equity, was selected because we felt it would profit from the withdrawal of banks from this sector of the market. It has done and should continue to do so.Moneysupermarket's obnoxious new ads look to be spurring a fightback against Comparethemarket.com's even more obnoxious meerkats (whose latest outing suggests the hairs are starting to fall out), which brings us to Lloyds Banking Group.This was perhaps the most hotly debated of the selections, not least because of its uncertainties at the top (the chief executive took an unscheduled break because of a mystery illness that stopped him from sleeping) and its government bailout. But like JD the shares just looked to have fallen to a ridiculously low level, although they remain a risky proposition.Our only loser was African Barrick Gold, deliberately chosen as a hedge against the roof falling in (exposure to gold can be a good idea if markets take a turn for the worse). There's still room for a recovery, however.In the meantime our guest tipster, in the form of my four-year-old son, also turned a profit of 17 per cent with his five (Ladbrokes, Unilever, Aga Rangemaster, International Power and ITV) which he found with the aid of a pin and the Indy's share listings. So perhaps we shouldn't get too above ourselves.Putting together the selections of our eight professionals (they each picked one share each to follow) also produced a positive return of 13 per cent. Their shares were Telecity, Salamander Energy, GlaxoSmithKline, Imperial Tobacco, Shell, Corero Network Security and Burberry (twice).How was it that the FTSE 100 proved so easy to beat? The problem with the blue chip index is that it is dominated by a handful of truly enormous companies. They include oil giants (BP and Shell) the drugs company GlaxoSmithKline, several huge mining companies with rather low name recognition, and HSBC, the bank. You only need for a couple of those to perform poorly (and these mega-caps have performed like big lumbering beasts of late) for the index to get dragged down.?“It will have been almost five years and has been anunbelievable experience.? I have seen the industry grow and develop. Mydream has always been to help new talent, and enable them to succeed."Massenet, whose ventures have changed the internet andluxury retail landscape globally, is an interesting choice to inherit the titlein a time when fashion is becoming more global day by day. "I know that Iam inheriting this position with the British Fashion Industry in the best shapeof its life," she said. "Maintaining and growing that reputation inGreat Britain and around the world is a responsibility that I take veryseriously."Someone who will surely appreciate these efforts isHaizhen Wang, who last night was awarded this year's Fashion Fringe award.Chosen by the initiative's founder Colin McDowell and guest chair Burberry headChristopher Bailey, Wang showed a collection inspired by historical Japanesearmour and the work of Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. This manifested insculptural, voluminous designs of draped and pleated leather and wool.Accessorized with untreated wooden and leather block heeled sandals and blackwooden bird like armour headpieces. Bailey said his choice was influenced by Wang's"work and approach, and well-rounded nature. He had a sense of vision ofhow he might build a brand. It was a tough decision, the three finalists allhad strong points of view and huge potential. Now I want Wang to find his voiceand slowly grow a business." While Bailey said that the experience was aprivilege, McDowell acknowledged how lucky the finalists were too."Christopher devoted more time to the three finalists than any otherchair. I always felt he was just a phone call away if we needed him and thatgave us confidence."For his part Wang felt that Bailey was aninspirational mentor. "He's the best example of how to support creativitywith commercial success," said the winner who believes his experience as adesigner for Max Mara and All Saints stood him in good stead. "My nextstep is to find more stockists and start work on the next collection,” addedWang, who as winner will receive support worth ￡100,000 and show at LondonFashion Week in February.?The Paris-based family-controlled brand saw double-digit increases in sales and profits across most markets in the first six months of the year. First-half sales hit ?1.6bn (￡1.3bn), up 22 per cent.Despite some brands, including Burberry and Hugo Boss, succumbing to a slowdown in sales growth in Asia, Hermes reported a 25 per cent rise in sales in China, Singapore and Hong Kong. But Europe was still strong for the group, with France up 10 per cent and the rest of Europe up 21 per cent. Japan was its weakest market, with sales growth of 3 per cent.Hermes, famed for its handbags and scarves, predicted annual sales growth of "around 12 per cent" for the year, a revision up from the 10 per cent it predicted last month. It beat analyst's forecasts for the half-year and said operating profit climbed 22.2 per cent to ?510.9m, up from ?418.1m a year ago. Net profit rose 15 per cent to ?335.1m.?Celebrating its 10th anniversary on the LSE, Burberry's shares have eased following a slowdown in sales growth after several years of outperformance that has turned it into a leading fashion house. But the stock was back on the up, gaining 57p to 1,289p. Hermes, famed for its silk scarves, said sales growth, although slowing, had been propped up by better-than-expected revenues in Asia. Year-on-year sales growth was 13.4 per cent in its second financial quarter, down from 17.6 per cent in the first quarter. Revenues in Asia, its biggest market, rose 16.2 per cent.?Maybelline's lipsticks have a creamy consistency, thanks to the honey nectar. If you're not really a red-hot kinda girl, there are 23 other shades to choose from.￡7.19, Maybelline, available nationwide2. Pocket PenThis little wand gives you the option of a matte finish with the much-loved 'benetint' colour, or a shiny pout with the clear gloss.￡15.50, Benefit, 3. Super-saturated high gloss lip colourApply this chubby pencil all over the lips to leave a lustrous red hue. Blot with tissue for a more subtle, day-time shade.￡14, Urban Decay, 4. Lip cover in No 19 Brick RedIf a pillar-box shade scares, take baby steps towards a rouge pout with this lightweight but intensely pigmented lipstick.￡22.50, Burberry, 5. Pretty Amazing lip colour in Upper Class RedVirgin Atlantic's signature colour has been immortalised in make-up. The long-lasting lacquer is currently only available at the airline's Clubhouse Spas, but will be stocked by Bare Minerals later in the year.￡15, Bare Minerals, 6. Lipstick in TulipContaining lauroyl lysine which is impervious to water and oil, you're guaranteed a long-lasting colour.￡25, Chantecaille, ?Like a duck floating serenely but paddling frantically beneath the surface, so the shows starting today in London are slick operations for the audience front-of-house but all frenetic activity behind the scenes.London Fashion Week, which was launched last night by Livia Firth in conjunction with the British Film Institute, will host 62 catwalk shows over the next five days, including ones from the likes of Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and milliner Philip Treacy who makes a return to the schedule this season. More than 5,000 visitors are expected to pass through the Somerset House venue.Fashion shows are extremely costly endeavours, often running up bills in the hundreds of thousands, thanks to high-spec lighting rigs, offbeat and exclusive venues, and of course, the famous faces not only on the runway but also in the front row."It can cost from about ￡5,000 for a 'showentation'," says Clarke, director of Inca productions who is working alongside the Fashion Fringe mentoring programme this season to help three fledgling designers stage their own collections. "Some of the big Paris shows cost literally millions."For a young name showing for the first time, London Fashion Week is a daunting prospect. Fashion Fringe, established in 2003 by fashion journalist Colin McDowell, aims to set nascent talents on the road to superstardom, offering mentoring and advice, and a slot on the official London Fashion Week schedule for the winner.That winner will be selected on Tuesday night at a show featuring collections from this year's three finalists, Chinese-born Haizhen Wang, Teija Eilola from Finland and Londoner Vita Gottlieb. Previous winners include Erdem Moraglioglu, nominated for British Designer of the Year in 2009, whose designs have been worn by the likes of Samantha Cameron and Corrie Nielsen, whose dramatic and gothic pieces have won critical acclaim.With only weeks before the shows kick off, the three finalists attend a meeting with Charlotte Clarke to learn how best they might realise their visions for the catwalk. Daunted but eager, they listen and take notes, to learn how to put together the biggest moment of their lives so far."I've never even been to a fashion show before so it's a scary and awe-inspiring concept that the first will be my own," says Gottlieb, 36, a textile designer who set up her own label earlier this year. "To get a full collection and on-schedule catwalk show together is a monumental challenge," adds Wang, 37, previously a pattern cutter for high street chain All Saints and Italian luxury label MaxMara, and now setting up on his own.Clarke talks them through the parameters of the space: the main Fashion Week marquee at Somerset House. The capacity is 500; the catwalk is 30 metres long and three metres wide."We've got four hours on-site," Clarke says, as the designers scribble down the details. "The models will turn up three hours before the show. We'll send them down the runway every 11 or 12 seconds, and it takes 24 seconds to get to the end of it with a basic walk. If you want an intro for your music, don't make it longer than 20 seconds. Journalists see a lot of shows and they're here to look at your clothes, so don't go too far down the theatrical route."With the London shows known increasingly for their entrepreneurial spirit, as opposed to their former reputation for producing enfant terribles with great creative talent but little commercial clout, schemes like Fashion Fringe are important for young designers who wish to go it alone. The traditional industry route of working as part of the design team for a larger house is now only one option among many. With graduate collections increasingly picked up by buyers, featured on blogs and Twitter, and shot by magazines, you can be a professional by the age of 23.Christopher Kane, nominated in the Designer of the Year category for the 2012 British Fashion Awards and showing on Monday, is still only 30."There has to be a concerted investment of expertise," says Colin McDowell, "because we are dealing with young creative people who are, by the very nature of what they do, vulnerable to all kinds of forces."From the practicalities ? casting models, hair and make-up tests ? to the professional touches, such as providing a drinks reception and being available for interviews after the show, the candidates must learn not only how to become a fashion designer and but also how to embody their brand.For now though, their efforts will be concentrated on the minutiae of their shows in three days' time, when the lights go up not only on their clothes but also on their futures.?Like a duck floating serenely but paddling frantically beneath the surface, so the shows starting today in London are slick operations for the audience front-of-house but all frenetic activity behind the scenes.London Fashion Week, which was launched last night by Livia Firth in conjunction with the British Film Institute, will host 62 catwalk shows over the next five days, including ones from the likes of Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and milliner Philip Treacy who makes a return to the schedule this season. More than 5,000 visitors are expected to pass through the Somerset House venue.Fashion shows are extravagant endeavours, often running up bills in the hundreds of thousands, thanks to high-spec lighting rigs, offbeat and exclusive venues, and of course, the famous faces not only on the runway but also in the front row."It can cost from about ￡5,000 for a 'showentation'," says Clarke, director of Inca productions who is working alongside the Fashion Fringe mentoring programme this season to help three fledgling designers stage their own collections. "Some of the big Paris shows cost literally millions."For a young name showing for the first time, London Fashion Week is a daunting prospect. Fashion Fringe, established in 2003 by the fashion journalist Colin McDowell, aims to set nascent talents on the road to superstardom, offering mentoring and advice, and a slot on the official London Fashion Week schedule for the winner.That winner will be selected on Tuesday night at a show featuring collections from this year's three finalists: Chinese-born Haizhen Wang, Teija Eilola from Finland and Londoner Vita Gottlieb. Previous winners include Erdem Moralioglu, nominated for British Designer of the Year in 2009, whose designs have been worn by the likes of Samantha Cameron and Corrie Nielsen, and whose dramatic and gothic pieces have won critical acclaim.With only weeks before the shows kick off, the three finalists attend a meeting with Charlotte Clarke to learn how best they might realise their visions for the catwalk. Daunted but eager, they listen and take notes, to learn how to put together the biggest moment of their lives so far."I've never even been to a fashion show before so it's a scary and awe-inspiring concept that the first will be my own," says Gottlieb, 36, a textile designer who set up her own label earlier this year. "To get a full collection and on-schedule catwalk show together is a monumental challenge," adds Wang, 37, previously a pattern-cutter for the high street chain All Saints and Italian luxury label MaxMara, and now setting up on his own.Clarke talks them through the parameters of the space: the main Fashion Week marquee at Somerset House. The capacity is 500; the catwalk is 30 metres long and three metres wide."We've got four hours on-site," Clarke says, as the designers scribble down the details. "The models will turn up three hours before the show. We'll send them down the runway every 11 or 12 seconds, and it takes 24 seconds to get to the end of it with a basic walk. If you want an intro for your music, don't make it longer than 20 seconds. Journalists see a lot of shows and they're here to look at your clothes, so don't go too far down the theatrical route."With the London shows known increasingly for entrepreneurial spirit, as opposed to their former reputation for producing enfant terribles with great creative talent but little commercial clout, schemes such as Fashion Fringe are important for young designers who wish to go it alone."There has to be a concerted investment of expertise," says Colin McDowell, "because we are dealing with young creative people who are, by the very nature of what they do, vulnerable to all kinds of forces."From the practicalities ? casting models, hair and make-up tests ? to the professional touches, such as providing a drinks reception and being available for interviews after the show, the candidates must learn not only how to become a fashion designer and but also how to embody their brand.For now though, their efforts will be concentrated on the minutiae of their shows in three days' time, when the lights go up not only on their clothes but also on their futures.?So when faithful clients and label loyalists attend the international collections, it's a chance for them to plump for pieces straight from the catwalk and pre-order their favourites, which often won't arrive in stores for another six months. A handy way to stay on top of the trends and ensure you're snapping up the season's must-haves before they sell out ? and undoubtedly an insider perk of the job.But it's also the shopping model behind a new capsule collection of clothing launching on the e-boutique Net-a-Porter. From Wednesday, McQ, the second line from Alexander McQueen, will offer its autumn 2012 collection on the site for exclusive pre-ordering for a week only. Pieces will then arrive in as soon as two months after the order has been placed, right at the very beginning of the new-season drops."Pre-order is a service that we have offered our customers in the past for truly exceptional collections," explains Net-a-Porter's buying director, Holli Rogers. "The first time was in 2007, when we collaborated with Roland Mouret on the relaunch of his brand. This was the first time customers could pre-order directly from the catwalk, anywhere."The McQ collection in question was a highlight of London Fashion Week last February, as models in strictly tailored but rustic wool coats and delicate but structured A-line dresses trod a catwalk strewn with crisp autumnal leaves. And the reinvigoration of the brand, as well as its return to the capital's schedule, has been met with enthusiasm and excitement among the industry's cognoscenti."As soon as we saw the McQ runway show, we knew our customers would love the collection as much as we did," Holli Rogers continues. "McQ wasn't originally planning to sell the collection, so it's wonderful to be able to offer our customers the chance to pre-order a piece of fashion history."Make no mistake, pre-ordering is for people who love their clothes, who eat, breathe and sleep fashion, and for whom only the most exclusive of pieces will do. But it's also a sales technique that is being adopted by more and more labels and shops, as customers become more confident about buying online and as the internet continues to speed up the traditional cycles of trends and tastes. High-street giant Topshop has started offering its autumn 2012 Unique collection to editors for pre-orders ? and where that commercial force leads, others are sure to follow.Burberry, too, has become known for its engagement with online audiences, having last year launched a "Tweetwalk" (in which every catwalk look is tweeted during the show in real time) and, before that, a "Runway to Reality" service which means customers can buy pieces straight from the show via the company's website. "Customers can buy immediately from the show and receive in six to eight weeks," explains chief creative officer Christopher Bailey. "It has changed the whole system of buying, as well as the cycle of production. Basically you can buy every bag that goes down the runway, every coat, and the make-up as well." Needless to say, it's months before the same items are scheduled to arrive in the shops."During the international fashion weeks, we see immediate responses from clients about the collections," says Selfridges' client-services manager, James Servini. "We can receive enquiries as soon as a day after a show. It's mostly a very fashion-savvy customer who will be interested ? somebody who has an intuitive sense of which looks define the coming season. They're extremely sure of how they want to dress, and particularly passionate about 'newness'."With the refurbishment of the store's Designer Galleries this year, Selfridges has also launched a lookbook of imagery that has further increased the potential for pre-orders. Working with the buying team to gauge shipments and arrivals, these customers, their tastes and inputs are also helping to shape the selection that will finally arrive on the shop floor ? James Servini points particularly to high-end and directional labels such as Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens, which are consistently popular orders. The practice may be for a minority, but it's an excellent way for both designers and buyers to canvass opinion, of getting an instant reaction and a sense of which might be the strongest looks in the range."Pre-ordering gives more choice to the customer," agrees designer Jonathan Saunders. "Often people look for more special pieces ? which are sometimes not picked up by the stores. It's really interesting to see what people select."In this way, shops are slowly returning to the old system of trunk shows and private views. Some designers still do these in person ? Michael Kors runs a circuit of chi-chi boutiques across the US for his diehard fans, while Nina Ricci's Peter Copping and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin have also resurrected the practice ? but Net-a-Porter's idea is that the trunk show can be run digitally, and orders taken there. It's a modern approach with roots in a much more personalised couture tradition. Moda Operandi (which stocks Jonathan Saunders, Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs, among many others) also offers online trunk shows, as well as from-the-catwalk ordering."Everyone is planning the next season in advance," says Kay Barron, fashion-features editor at Harper's Bazaar, "and we're not as spontaneous as we once were. You have to put quite a lot of thought into it and really understand your personal style. But it's always worth it, so long as you actually like what you've ordered when it arrives three months later."?They are not easy to find. The fact of the consumer squeeze is well known and almost every trading statement you'd care to mention in recent weeks talks about how "challenging" conditions are. The much-feared "double-dip" recession looks like it has arrived with most forecasters saying that this country is now "technically" in one with the economy expected to show a second-consecutive quarter of shrinkage when the Office for National Statistics unveils the numbers for the first three months of 2012 in April. Unemployment is still rising, confidence is falling, from pretty low levels too. Margins are going to be under pressure because if stores don't keep their prices low, they won't see any of their customers' money. Is there any light at the end of the tunnel? Well perhaps. One plus point in retailers' favour is that it finally looks as if inflation is falling. It might be a year later than the Bank of England originally thought, but the downhill slopes have been reached. And there are forecasters who think it will come down faster than the official predictions would have you believe. Shops' input costs are falling. The price of their raw materials, and the products they sell, appear to be easing. Which should make it easier for them to keep prices low while at least maintaining some sort of margin. The Independent featured two retailers in our 10 to follow at the beginning of the year ? JD Sports Fashion and Burberry. We said buy the former at 624p, attracted by its ridiculously low valuation and the boost it might enjoy from a year with two major sporting events ? the Olympics and the European Football Championships. It seems someone was listening. The shares subsequently smashed through the 700p barrier and carried on gaining. They are now up nearly 20 per cent. But even at that price, they remain a bargain trading on just 6.7 times forecast earnings, with a respectable prospective yield of 3.5 per cent. At that price JD is still a buy. Burberry's shares have broken through 1400p and also carried on. They are showing a similar percentage gain from when they were tipped at 1185p. They now enjoy a barnstorming rating of 22.7 times forecast earnings, yielding just 1.8 per cent. That is largely because Burberry is now an international luxury brand with exposure to places that, unlike Britain, are growing, such as China. I'd be a shade reluctant to buy more at that price, but they are still off their highs last year and should be held for the long term. Elsewhere, though, the picture gets harder. This column has already looked at M&S (too expensive) and Next (ditto). Home Retail Group's problems have been well documented. We'll see if the new boss of Argos it has hired from America's Best Buy Group can turn things around. As for the shares, well, it might be best to keep a watching brief unless you're very brave. The same goes for HMV. It is hard to see how chief executive Simon Fox can pull it out of its frightening slump. Selling the live music HMV Live to raise cash is depressing because it is a very good business. Again, this is one to avoid. One which I quite like is N Brown. It is true that this clothes retailer's demographic is very similar to that of Argos. Companies serving "ordinary people", if you like, are not finding it easy, even where they discount aggressively. The failure of Peacocks is a good example. Debt was the killer, there, but it only became the killer because of poor trading. All the same, N Brown is a risk, but it's one I might be inclined to hold. Sports Direct is one to watch rather than buy right now. It is expensive, at nearly 14 times earnings for the year to 12 April and the yield is pitiful. The company is also, to put it mildly, run rather eccentrically. But it will benefit from this year's sporting events even more than JD, and the company does have a habit of getting it done. Perhaps it helps that shop floor staff can earn bumper bonuses along with the executives if targets are met. It might be expensive right now, but could be one to buy on weakness.I'd advise caution on SuperGroup, even though it has bounced back a bit after falling to earth last year. ?"But I didn't let them dress me up, or anything," he adds, lest anyone consider him a mannequin. "No, no. I just wore what I bought yesterday: Burberry, a bit of Adidas, Lacoste, Ralph Lauren." He has, it transpires, an appealingly common-sense approach to fashion."If it looks good, I like it. I was always into fashion, but I never had the money to buy stuff before. I'm trying to get all the best bits I can now, while I'm still able to, you know?"Bugg is from Nottingham. A good-looking boy with a hairstyle that looks as if it requires product to maintain, he resembles the fifth member of Arctic Monkeys, weaned on a musical diet of Liam Gallagher and Pete Doherty. The fact that, respectively, he isn't and wasn't is what makes him such a beguiling anomaly. His debut single, "Lightning Bolt", which came out a few months ago, sounded like vintage rock'*'roll, and was likened to Buddy Holly, Johnny Cash and early Dylan. All too often when people attempt to evoke such a distant period, they come across as cloying pastiche; Bugg somehow managed to sound entirely authentic.But how is it done, that seeming authenticity? Is it down to the manner in which he sings ? reedy, thrilling, Dylan-ish? The self-conscious brevity of his mostly two-minute songs? It there a special yesteryear switch on his microphone? "I'm not really sure, to be honest. It just sort of comes out that way."His new single, "Taste It", has come out that way as well ? two minutes and 24 seconds of twanging guitar and a highwire keening vocal ? as does everything on his forthcoming, eponymously titled debut album.He shrugs. "I suppose I just like that Sixties retro feel, old rock'*'roll, the blues, Robert Johnson. I love all that stuff, man. It's the best."Bugg was brought up on what was once Europe's largest housing estate. His father was a nurse, his mother in sales, and as a teenager he had no interest in music at all."I was into football ? had trials and stuff," he says. But then one day he was watching The Simpsons, the episode in which "Vincent", Don McLean's limpid lament to Van Gogh, popped up. Bugg cannot explain what it was about the song that appealed to him, but something clearly did. He googled McLean, which led him in turn to Donovan, and then to George Harrison. He still hasn't got round to listening to very much of Bob Dylan, but promises to do so soon.At 14, with his passion for football cooling, he was bought a guitar by his uncle, who showed him the basic chords. Within a year, he was gigging around Nottingham, and people told him that he was good, that he should do what every young hopeful does these days, and get himself on to X?Factor, Britain's Got Talent. Amanda Holden would love him."I was never interested in that," he says. "I didn't like anybody that went on that show. They didn't write their own songs, so there was nothing in it for me. What was the point? I believed there was another way to go."Quite what, though, he wasn't sure. Nobody from his housing estate had ever landed a record deal before. "But I got lucky. I met a guy in Nottingham who knew a guy in Newcastle who knew a guy down in London who works for a record label. Six months later, I was signed."That was last year. He has spent the past 12 months carefully crafting the album, staying true to the?sound he loves so much. He tells me about one song, "Kentucky", that goes: "I'll be a man from Kentucky/Have a guitar but I've no money/That don't mean I'm blue....""I've never been to Kentucky," he says, "but it's a story, a bit of imagination, like reading a book. Does that make sense? I'd love to go one day. Me on a road trip across America … That's the dream."For the time being, Bugg is immersing himself in every artist critics tell him he reminds them of, most of them long dead. He admits to having little time for, as he puts it, "dance tunes" because they lack melody, and he plans to read Mojo magazine more. He also seems to be enjoying the fact that much of his audience is significantly older than your average 18-year-old draws."But I do get a lot of young girls down the front as well," he is quick to point out. And what do they get from such a Sixties throwback? Bugg isn't sure. "I'll have to ask them," he grins.He yawns; he's tired. It was an early start this morning, yet another one. The promotional treadmill, he says, is exhausting."It's a lot of hard work but I'm enjoying it, and I'm doing my best to take care of myself."And how does he do that? "Sleep well," he says. "And eat lots of fruit."Jake Bugg's EP 'Taste It' is out now. His debut album follows in the autumn. For more information: www.jakebugg.com?The bank was caught short by New York's Department of Financial Services (DFS), bit back publicly and then quickly negotiated a $340m (￡216.5m) fine to settle allegations that it had breached US regulations on banking transactions with Iran.Yet suggesting that the lightest of boardroom reshuffles is enough of a lesson for Standard Chartered to learn from this episode is dangerous. Not only has the bank to settle with four further US regulators who have been probing its affairs, but activities in Myanmar, Libya and Sudan are also under scrutiny.It is not that the bank's board has been found to have done anything glaringly wrong. But this episode is a good opportunity to spotlight the role of Sir John Peace, Standard Chartered's chairman. Sir John is a busy man. He chairs three FTSE 100 companies: Standard Chartered, fashion house Burberry and credit-checking firm Experian. Some chairman struggle to cope with one role of such distinction. Sir John has amply coped with a trio of them. The latter two are siblings from his successful stewardship of Great Universal Stores which was split into three parts (the third being Argos owner Home Retail Group), creating great value for shareholders.You can forgive Sir John for being emotionally attached to Experian. He effectively founded the business within GUS which he joined as a youngster in 1970. Efforts to find his replacement there came to nothing, even though he reluctantly vowed to step down when he was appointed to chair Standard Chartered in 2009.I'm not suggesting that he isn't one of Britain's leading businessmen. It would also be unwise to fall into the same trap as Barclays, where a string of can-carrying resignations left a hole at the top of the bank. But after this incident at Standard Chartered, it feels right that something's got to give.?This shone in the Georgian sunshine with the promise of the deliverance he has been pursuing with growing confidence in the last few weeks and there was a huge temptation to believe that it had all been true, that the Tiger was back.Unfortunately, it passed soon enough. In all, the swing that was supposed to have given him the impetus to resume his chase of Jack Nicklaus' record mark of 18 major titles failed five times, resulting in grotesque snap hooks which cost him three shots, two, dispiritingly, on the 17th and 18th holes.That left him on even par ? hardly disastrous at a stage of the tournament where even in the best of his days he tended to lurk rather than browbeat ? but the true cost was in the palpable sense of a missed opportunity.Not to lead in early running for a title he has already won four times ? but in creating the sense that once more he might just be the man setting the agenda for an entire game."I'm ready," Woods tweeted to the world on the eve of the 76th Masters without quite specifying in what area he was most prepared.We didn't have to speculate too long. If the spirit was strong enough, there were the most serious problems of technique. Over the first nine, which he finished at an encouraging one under, he landed on just two fairways. This was not the serene return to the centre of the golfing universe so many had anticipated.It was the game's version of street fighting and these days it is a desperate business with which the Tiger is required to busy himself in a way that could never have been imagined before his game and his life began to unravel two and a half years ago. If he was to inflict himself on this tournament which he last won seven years ago, it would only be by the equivalent of house-to-house fighting and on the first holes there had to be shock at the shortfall between good, aggressive intentions and workable technique.Yet there was clear evidence of a willingness to fight at the treacherously sloping third green. There, the Tiger went one under when he might easily have already been two shots adrift. This was a case of superior damage control through a start which even by his own haphazard standards on a first day here was reckless, to say the least.Certainly, it revealed a disturbing gap between the rhapsodies of praise for his new swing coach, Sean Foley, and a performance on the first and second tees which seemed programmed more than anything else to bring on a nervous breakdown.The Tiger's driver looked about as refined as a blunderbuss as he hooked hugely left on both occasions.On the first tee the Tiger provided an instant bromide for those most filled with passion by his arrival in mid-morning.It was even worse at the par-five second, when another hook landed in a creek and required a penalty drop. On both occasions the Tiger's body language was less than triumphant.But, no, he wouldn't let go. Par was retrieved on both occasions and when he went one under at the third a roar of encouragement raced across the course.There was another sickening mishap on the seventh when he hooked again and narrowly missed a bunker. His expression was filled with self-disgust and this deepened when his chip from the fringe could not prevent his first bogey.This was not where he believed he was heading after surviving the threat of an outward half, which might easily have rivalled the one which came on the opening day of his first success here 15 years ago. Then he rocketed to 40, a potential disaster that required an astonishing touch which retrieved six shots on the back nine.That is the kind of surge which, until not so long ago, was the trademark of the most overwhelming golfer the game had ever known and yesterday it was, when you considered all that had gone before, perhaps a little much to ask, especially, when you recalled his career tendency to labour on the first day, then work seriously to separate the rest of the field from any serious self-belief.Between 1997 and 2002 it was a formula guaranteed to tear the heart out of all opposition. Yesterday he could only lament the loss of such a devastating touch and say: "I fought my way through the day even though I shot a few wild ones. I was pleased that I stayed committed and I'll take that attitude into tomorrow."He birdied the eighth to return to the red and then, on the 10th which did so much to undermine his young rival Rory McIlroy last year, he at last produced shots of genuine authority. He played his approach shot quite beautifully, then drilled home the birdie putt with his old master's touch.The crowd sent a message to Amen Corner that the Tiger was coming. It was maybe a little early to say precisely quite what shape he was in, but there had to be more than a touch of optimism.He had, after all, avoided the threat of a most serious accident and there were indeed moments when he seemed willing to stand and fight with the kind of resilience that was last seen at its best when he won the 2008 US Open. He did that virtually, as an admiring McIlroy put it, on one leg.Yesterday, there was no sign of physical discomfort. What you had to worry about was that latest crack in a once shining mirror.Shot, shank, strides: Three of the bestShot of the DayIt looked like it was going to be a catastrophic second hole for Tiger Woods, after he was forced to take a penalty shot after hooking the ball into the trees. But he recovered well after a long iron brought him close to the green, followed by a beautiful chip which allowed him to save par.Shank of The DayThe veteran Sandy Lyle, Masters champion in 1988, made an awful start at Augusta yesterday. The 54-year-old Scot was three over after two holes following a woeful bogey and a double bogey. He was then nine over-par by the seventh hole following a triple bogey.Outfit of the DayWhat did you expect? He was never going to dress sombrely for the occasion. Ian Poulter, who also moonlights as a fashion designer, turned up for his first hole at Augusta yesterday sporting what can only be described as outrageous pink trousers bearing the Burberry check.Facts in figures69 Paul Lawrie's score, breaking 70 for the first time at the event.1996 The year when a Briton last won the Masters ? Nick Faldo for his third time.290 Odds to one against Stenson available at the start of play.2 Number of birdies by Tiger Woods in his first nine holes yesterday.21 Tiger Woods' age when he first won the Masters in 1997.?But when it emerged that the ￡80m price tag could be met by the private sector, including a ￡5m donation from Lord Ashcroft ? who knows a bit about spending money offshore ? the royal flagship became a more difficult target. How do you oppose something which we taxpayers aren't paying for, and will bring a smile to the face of an 85-year-old great-grandmother?Next came the announcement that there would be a river pageant, including a flotilla of 1,000 boats sailing down the Thames for the jubilee celebrations in June, at a cost of ￡10m ? yet all funded by sponsorship (though the cost of security will come from the taxpayer). Jibs flapping all round. How do we negotiate such constitutional choppiness? Yes, we appreciate the Queen for her 60 years on the throne, and we want her to enjoy her weekend in June. We'll probably join in in some way, perhaps even go to the Thames to watch the spectacle. Even if we don't want to take part, we must acknowledge that the weekend will boost tourism, and therefore the economy (although maybe the people painting the Queen's personal Gloriana barge in 17th century gold could use a cheaper, less ostentatious commodity instead). All of this leaves us in difficult and, dare I say, ideologically uncharted waters. Can you celebrate the privately funded yacht and jubilee if you resent paying for the Royal Family for the rest of the time?I have a modest proposal that I hope will help. Why don't we turn the monarchy, and the Queen herself, into a PFI ? a private finance initiative? Funding for the royal yacht is a good model for this ? something owned and run by the state, but funded by the private sector. There is an inherent difficulty I recognise which is, of course, that the Queen is the state, but am sure we could get round that. You could raise some of the money through sponsorship: for the yacht, as an example, HMS Burberry perhaps? Jack Wills jerseys for the cabin stewards?Better still, why not take a tip from Nick Clegg, who on Monday called for more John Lewis-style companies that are owned by their staff, and mutualise Her Majesty? Turn the Royal Family into the Queen's Co-op. The Duchess of Cambridge could literally be the People's Princess. There would be a bit of private funding to help to meet the annual costs of the Royal Family ? which are about ￡40m (although that figure does not take into account the ￡50m cost of last year's royal wedding, and the anti-monarchy group Republic says the real annual figure is actually ￡100m). But members of the public could opt to buy shares in the mutual monarchy, which would be the main source of funding. Anyone who didn't want to buy shares wouldn't have to. The public cost of the monarchy could be spent elsewhere. That ￡40m is not going to do much to dent the deficit, but it will help a bit, and pay for a few nurses' salaries or some new school classrooms.And if, as I may have run out of sailing metaphors, I could switch to hunting to conclude: a mutualised monarchy would shoot the left's fox, because it would take the cost out of the republican argument; and it would shoot the right's fox, because they want a smaller state. In the middle, the Queen never knowingly undersold. Isn't that something to celebrate? ?AllSaints, the fashion chain, has poached a director from Burberry to be its new chief executive. William Kim, who was the senior vice-president of retail and digital commerce at Burberry, will join the private equity-owned AllSaints on 15 October. Founded in 1994, the clothing retailer has 65 stores and 35 concessions in the UK, Europe and US. ?"Personally, I have long been a pelt-wearing vegetarian. By the laws of reflex liberalism, those of my ilk are not supposed to 'do skin'. And yet, like the non-paint-hurling majority, I am wary of an animal rights lobby that refers to medical testing as a "holocaust", terrorises scientists and their families, and would prohibit pets. To compare their activism to that of suffragettes or anti-Nazi protesters is reverse anthropomorphism at its most obscene."Moreover, there's an argument to say that the fur industry helps, not harms, animal populations. "It is in no way perverse to suggest that the industry is also beneficial for animals, in the sense that culling can regulate and thus secure populations ? as deer culling does in Britain." ?Her marriage is wonderful, she's given up alcohol and from tomorrow she's hosting the nightly 'Strictly' spin-off show 'It Takes Two'?Princess Diana changed all that. Or the clever people who drew up the guest-list for the Serpentine Gallery summer party in 1994. She arrived in a killer black dress, on the same day that Prince Charles discussed the collapse of their marriage in a Jonathan Dimbleby interview.Perhaps not a great day for the Royals, but one that transformed the face of the arts party. Suddenly, every A-, B- and C-lister was lining up to get into the party in Hyde Park. Last week's annual shindig drew Mischa Barton and a glittering shoal of models.The event inspired other galleries to do the same ? to reach out beyond their own industry's stars. As summer parties begin to kick off across the arts sector, we can perhaps expect the same extravagance.And yet, the blingy "big event" arts party is beginning to feel inappropriately flashy in our current climate. Call my complaint sour grapes ? I didn't get my Serpentine Gallery invite this year ? but then, I remember feeling uncomfortable there last year, and the year before that.Of course, the gallery should be congratulated for bringing bling to the arts, on one level. It is a very networky and American way of doing business, by drawing rich potential philanthropists, sponsors, donors, to their doors.Yet now, in this climate of double-dip recessions and Government cuts to arts funding (with the prospect of more forever looming), this kind of hot ticket seems like a celebration of money, power, and fame, while the "arts" bit of the "arts party" is drowned out.Three years ago, when the recession first hit the arts, I was at the Cannes Film Festival and noticed that the film industry toned down its parties, which had always been the blingest of the bling. The paring down was a gesture that acknowledged the larger economic environment, and hailed a new, non-conspicuous consumption era.The Serpentine manages to do better than most to pull in major private sponsorship, and Julia Peyton-Jones, its director, clearly knows how to tub-thump for money, but two years ago, even she warned that private philanthropy cannot fill the gap that any reduction in Government arts funding leaves behind.And does a high-voltage party send an unsavoury message out to the arts world? To have an arts event morph into a starry fashion and showbiz event too means it has, in some ways, become a prisoner of its success. Burberry had its umbrellas everywhere last summer. This year, the fashion designer Leon Max sponsored the party.The books industry has kept it far more purist. You get the occasional celebrity at a books party but they have a reason to be there ? they've just written a memoir, or brought out a cookbook ? but even so, they are like lesser-spotted Welsh snow leopards when we compare their numbers to those in the visual arts.Over the past 10 years, there has been a significant diminution of publishing parties. When they're grand, they're really very grand: Bloomsbury pulls out all the stops in its annual Bloomsbury Square party. But what's different about it is that the stars of the party, and other parties like it, are the authors, whereas the star of this year's Serpentine Gallery party was, arguably, Mischa Barton.?Eurazeo, the French private-equity firm, Zegna, an Italian luxury brand, and PPR, one of France's biggest luxury houses, are all known to have had recent talks with the Bond suit-maker about a potential offer. If the company is sold, it could fetch up to ?350m (￡300m).Brioni declined to comment.The Rome-based family-owned group still manufactures its entire range in Italy. Its suits start at $4,000 (￡2,570) and can cost $47,000.The business was founded in 1945 and now has boutiques in major cities across the world. It reported an operating profit of ?32m for 2010 and is expanding into casualwear.Eurazeo recently bought a stake in Italian ski-wear label Moncler, while PPR has been trying to offload its catalogue business Redcats in a move to focus on luxury goods.Luxury goods groups, which have until recently remained resilient to the downturn, have started to see their share prices fall due to doubts over potential growth in emerging markets such as China. The UK label Burberry saw a 12.5 per cent fall on its share price this week.?The group, which has 196 retail stores, 207 concessions, 48 outlet shops and 58 franchise stores worldwide, said like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to September 8 and have started to fall over recent weeks. Total sales including new space were up 6%.The luxury goods firm, famous for its red, black and camel check, warned adjusted pre-tax profits for the year to March 31 will be around the lower end of market expectations.Burberry, which was founded in 1856, spent much of the year bucking the gloomy trend in the wider retail sector due to its exposure to robust emerging markets, especially China.Burberry?chief executive Angela Ahrendts warned the external environment was "becoming more challenging".She added: "Given this background, we are tightly managing discretionary costs and taking appropriate actions to protect short term profitability."The flat like-for-like sales in the second quarter so far are a sharp slowdown from the 6% hike reported for the first quarter to June 30.Burberry?reported a 24% surge in annual profits to ￡366 million in its last financial year, while total revenues were also up 24% to ￡1.9 billion as key Asian markets showed more strong growth and flagship stores in London and Paris performed well.Burberry?previously announced plans to add a further 12% to 14% of selling space in this financial year but did not give details of store openings in today's update.The group has been focusing on larger format stores, such as its relocated site in London's Regent Street.It is due to issue another trading update on October 11 before its interim results for the six months to September 30 on November 7.Burberry?shares slumped 17% in the wake of the warning, wiping ￡1 billion from its market value and leaving the stock at its lowest point this year.The previous range of market forecasts for the financial year had been for?Burberry?to achieve profits of between ￡407 million and ￡455 million.Investec Securities analyst Bathany Hocking said: "We have been fans of?Burberry, and remain of the view that the strategy, luxury positioning and management team should lead to long-term sector outperformance."Today's statement does, however, imply a significant slowdown and?Burberry?is not immune from wider macro-economic turbulence."PA?The cashmere company has been keeping people warm for 215 years, but recently efforts to combine its long heritage with more modern glamour has given the Scottish firm's chances of cracking the global market a rosy glow.Johnstons is in its fifth year of a collaboration with Christopher Kane, the multi-award winning designer who has dreamt up outfits for Kylie Minogue videos. Never mind that it is the only remaining vertical mill in the UK ? meaning it does everything from taking the raw fibre to producing the finished garment for its own label. Supplying luxury brands including Chanel and Hermes has helped to lend it a new-found cachet with fashionistas.Linny Oliphant, brand manager at Johnstons says: "We have recently re-branded and spent ￡1m on our Eastfield Mills site in Hawick. We remain true to our roots and customers love our heritage and the fact we are made in Britain."With London Fashion Week in full flow, it is reassuringly familiar story. Add in hopes that the Olympics and Queen's Diamond Jubilee will lure the rich and famous to Britain from around the world, and 2012 is shaping up to be a big year for the British luxury goods.Capitalising on this unique opportunity was top of the agenda last month at a breakfast organised by Walpole, the British luxury body, and hosted by jeweller Boodles on Bond Street.There is a chance for some of Walpole's members to move up ? from being part of a cottage industry to genuine challengers to those few UK fashion powerhouses, such as Mulberry and Burberry.London Fashion Week is important to the capital: it pumps ￡30m into the economy and brings in ￡100m of orders for the designer brands that grace the catwalks. However, the show is still in the shadow similar events in the major fashion centres like Milan or Paris. As the chairman of a major Italian luxury goods house says: "London is known for watching the young and the up-and-coming designers but not for the large, established luxury houses."Many of the designers whose garments make it on to the catwalk have wafer-thin profits; the most successful designers globally are supported by wealthy conglomerates that make the real money on perfume sales.The figures also show the UK hasn't completely cracked the fashion market. The UK exports an impressive ￡3.9bn of clothing and footwear a year, but this is dwarfed by the ￡14.6bn of imported garments.A handful of British luxury brands have made it big. Burberry has a market cap of ￡6.3bn and Mulberry is worth more than ￡1.1bn. Other successful labels have been snapped up by overseas buyers, with Jimmy Choo and leather goods firm Belstaff owned by Swiss company Labelux and McQueen and Stella McCartney part of French group PPR.Like Johnstons, they are making the most of the British credentials as a way of wooing spenders. Burberry has been big on promoting its 'Made in Britain' roots. It is sponsoring a scholarship at the Royal College of Art and Design and last year expanded its factory in Castleford, West Yorkshire. The group even shows videos of its factory in overseas stores.Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council and owner of Jaeger and Aquascutum, says: "We are having our time. British fashion is back and we have the opportunity to grow globally. People want to buy British ? made in Britain reeks of quality. Our customers are international ? not just Chinese but from across the globe."Upmarket jewellery brand and host of the luxury breakfast get-together, Boodles, also boasts a long history. Michael Wainwright, sitting in the plush surroundings of his lavish white leather and silk upholstered boutique in the heart of London's luxury sector, is the fifth generation of his family to run the 214-year-old business. Wainwright is trying to ensure the business keeps up with the 21st century despite its age, and is launching a website in Arabic and Mandarin in May. There are also shops planned for Hong Kong to add to the five Boodles has in the UK.However, Wainwright argues that UK luxury groups cannot rely on using their long lives as unique selling points. For example, handbag and accessories brand Mulberry has been a dazzling performer and is a relative newcomer [created in 1971]. Wainwright says: "It isn't just about the heritage, it's making the people behind the brand accessible."Wainwright is doing just this by cancelling his summer holiday, so that he is in town to welcome shoppers to his London stores during the Olympics and Diamond Jubilee. Similarly, Burberry will open its huge Regent Street flagship store before the Olympic flame is lit in late July The influx of summer visitors mean sales are expected to rocket. A 3.5 per cent increase forecast for the London's West End alone. The New West End Company predicts an additional ￡16.6m in revenue as a direct consequence of the Games. There will be impossibly wealthy tourists spending implausibly vast sums from the US, China, Russia, Middle East, Nigeria and Brazil.The Jubilee celebration has a ready made face of luxury: the Queen and the Royal family. Julia Carrick, chief executive at Walpole, says: "For the luxury sector, the Queen and her family are the best ambassadors of all. The Queen has helped British brands expand to become global players." Verdict Research forecasts the global luxury goods industry will increase by ￡37bn to ￡107bn by 2015. This market is not just important to the brands themselves. The manufacture of luxury goods does its bit for the UK's economy, while there is a wealth of other jobs the sector supports.Luca Solca, Credit Agricole Cheuvreux global head of European research with a focus on luxury, says: "The most important British brands seem less dependent on domestic manufacturing than what one typically finds in Switzerland or France. Hence, most of the benefits to the British economy come in the shape of high level job creation ? creation, marketing, commercial and general management are typically in London ? retail investments and operations, and all of the indirect effects a heightened level of economic activity typically brings."The UK doesn't have luxury conglomerates on the scale of LVMH, Richemont or PPR but brands are ? after two centuries in some cases ? investing in global expansion for a brighter, luxurious future.Johnstons of ElginSales: ￡50mJohnstons has been dyeing, spinning, weaving and knitting cashmere since 1797.BurberrySales: ￡1.5bnThomas Burberry, a 21-year-old draper’s apprentice, opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire in 1856Paul SmithSales: ￡196mSir Paul Smith opened his first shop in 1970 in his home town of Nottingham and by 1976 he had shown his first collection in Paris. He now has 12 different Paul Smith collections.MulberrySales: ￡122mFounder Roger Saul was ousted from the Mulberry board in 2002 after a spat with then chief executive Godfrey Davis. The Somerset based company will soon be headed by a Frenchman when Bruno Guillon joins from French rival Hermes next month.?The anecdote ? related by the economist Dambisa Moyo in her recent study of nascent Chinese supremacy, How the West Was Lost ? underlines the uphill struggle faced by British manufacturers fighting unsuccessfully to stem the tide against their low-cost rivals.More recently, the Chancellor, George Osborne, pinned hopes on manufacturers to drag the UK out of its present malaise with a call for a Britain "borne aloft by the march of the makers". Unfortunately, no sooner was the soundbite out of his mouth than the debt crisis in the eurozone ? still our biggest export market, accounting for some 40 per cent of sales ? began biting hard. In the first three months of this year, when the country's double-dip recession was confirmed, our manufacturers were stagnant rather than propelling us towards the promised land of recovery.From world-leading companies such as GlaxoSmithKline in pharmaceuticals, BAE Systems in defence technology and Burberry in fashion, "Made in Britain" is still a label to be proud of, but there is less of it around than there used to be. It looks strange that the Chancellor should even have bothered putting his eggs in the manufacturing basket when the figures paint a stark picture of its declining significance to Britain.In 1980, manufacturing employed 6.3 million people, accounting for 23 per cent of the workforce. By the end of last year this had shrank by around two-thirds to 2.3 million, representing 7.5 per cent of British employees. The nation's manufacturing base was hollowed out first under Margaret Thatcher and then under Tony Blair as New Labour was bewitched by the financial sector and the pursuit of a service-led economy. Manufacturing's share of the UK economy overall, 23 per cent in 1980, has dwindled to just 10 per cent.But it's not all bad news, as industry cheerleaders are keen to highlight. The UK's industrial base may be little more than a 10th of the size of China's, but we are still the world's ninth-largest manufacturer, according to the EEF manufacturers' trade body. And there's still plenty of stuff we do well. Go back to China, for example, and a grand old British name like Rolls-Royce. We might not be able to compete any more in low-cost manufacturing, but our new global economic overlords still wants to buy our cars.Demand for Rolls-Royces in China, which had more than a million millionaires in 2011, is such that it overtook the US as the firm's biggest market in 2011. Last year the firm could barely keep up with demand for its Phantom Dragon, costing $1.2m (￡770,000). Rolls-Royce sold out of the model in two months.In May, Britain made 141,146 cars, the highest number in eight years, with vast numbers finding their way to the world's second-largest economy. The story of the last decade may be the quadrupling of Chinese imports to the UK ? ￡31.5bn last year ? but less remarked upon is that our exports to China jumped more than six times to ￡9.3bn during the same period. There is some ground for optimism.Tim Bradshaw, the CBI's head of industrial policy and innovation, reckons cars could take a big chunk out of Britain's trade deficit, which stood at more than ￡10bn in April: "At the moment sales of higher-end cars to China are worth about ￡2bn a year, but at the current rate of growth that could be up to ￡8-9bn by 2020. So just on cars to China alone we could eliminate a quarter of our trade deficit."There are other things we do well, Mr Bradshaw adds. "It's not just the likes of Jaguar, Land Rover and Bentley. We are also pretty good at some of the more basic manufacturing, including chemical production. They may not be complex products but there are complex processes involved in making them. The UK accounts for around 5 per cent of the global market share in pharmaceuticals, chemicals and plastics manufacturing."China is also losing its in-built advantage on labour costs which tempted so many firms to shift production there. China's rate of wage inflation is such that, five or 10 years down the line, they will be be less competitive on wages. Aeronautics is another UK strength. The Airbus A380 ? at ￡254m a pop ? is 54 per cent UK-made by value, if Rolls-Royce's Trent 900 engines are included.The Chancellor has set a target of doubling the UK's total exports ? ￡487bn last year ? to ￡1trn by 2020. Peter Russell, Royal Bank of Scotland's head of manufacturing who works with a host of British firms, calls this target "wildly ambitious" because sluggish Europe remains by far our biggest export market, "and that is not likely to change in the near term".Mr Russell also warns of a "real demographic challenge" with 30 per cent of the UK's stronger manufacturing workforce set to retire over the next 10 years. But British firms are pursuing more opportunities in the Bric economies as well as the Middle East.Britain may not a have a future as the workshop of the world ? but we can be a hi-tech brains trust leading the way on innovation, Mr Russell says. So maybe Mr Osborne's "march of the makers" could bear fruit if we can make the things that China and other emergent economies want over the next decade.He concludes: "I don't think we're ever returning to the status of being a top five manufacturer in the world: our role is being more technical and smart. It is about value-creation and making sure that our manufacturers get more than their fair share."?Her marriage is wonderful, she's given up alcohol and from tomorrow she's hosting the nightly 'Strictly' spin-off show 'It Takes Two'?City grandees want to do the same. Instead of raincoats, the City is exporting its financial and regulatory expertise to places such as Moscow, Dubai and Toronto. The busiest catwalk is Moscow, where The CityUK, the Square Mile's promotional trade body, is the lead partner working with the Kremlin on developing the country's new International Finance Centre. Dubai signed up with The CityUK last week to work on its financial centre, and Toronto is said to be not far off.Danny Corrigan, the deputy chairman of CityUK's Russian liaison group, coined the Burberry phrase for how the City is "copying and pasting" its regulatory, legal and accountancy standards on to Moscow. The Russian capital is already the third-biggest revenue earner for the City's magic circle of lawyers and accountants after London and New York. Corrigan, who runs the roubles desk at Icap, says financial experts are tripping over themselves to do business in Moscow ? BA has just upgraded its route into the city, one of its most profitable and busiest.Another Russian delegation was in London last week for talks on public-private partnership projects, while the Lord Mayor, David Wootton, is due to visit Moscow again in July. With Wootton will be representatives from hundreds of financial firms, including the London Stock Exchange.Behind the scenes, the LSE is already working with the Moscow exchange on expanding its derivatives and securities market as it diversifies away from natural resources, but more concrete arrangements are likely. Nearly 20 per cent of London's market volume is now trading in Russian shares, so closer ties make sense.The CityUK's Richard Normington says London was chosen ? ahead of Frankfurt ? because it sets the gold standard for regulatory work. You can be forgiven for being cynical about the City's high standards after the banking crash, but, apparently, London still leads the way on regulatory issues such as alternative resolution disputes, as well as branding. There may be construction work in the pipeline too ? a decision on whether Moscow will build its own new Canary Wharf will be taken after its presidential elections next Sunday.It's not just finance that's growing ? trade is on the up, with Russia the UK's 12th-biggest export market. The Government sees long-term potential for the world's biggest country and eighth-largest retail market? there's a Burberry in Moscow's best shopping street.Lord Green, the trade minister and former chairman of HSBC, has made Russia a priority. But he's also been criticised by MPs for allowing UK Trade & Investment to push Russia as a trading partner, because of worries over the regime. Indeed, Labour MP Denis MacShane lambasted Lord Green two weeks ago for hosting a London conference to sell Russia's new Skolkovo Innovation Park, because, he alleged, it legitimised a regime " plagued by criminality and corruption". One of Russia's richest oligarchs, Viktor Vekselberg, who is in charge of the project billed as Russia's Silicon Valley, was the main speaker at the event, which drew more than 100 British investors and scientists.Vekselberg is one of the three oligarchs who own half of TNK-BP, the joint venture with BP. The UK oil giant is one of the first to work with Skolkovo, agreeing a ￡9m grant to back Imperial College and its Russian university partner for research into oil refining.Ironically, one of the stated aims of Skolkovo is to stop the brain-drain ? and money drain ? to cities such as London; Russia wants the Brits to go there instead. But should UK companies be expanding into Russia? Or will new players get burnt, as MacShane suggests, like the hedge fund Hermitage or BP?Who better to ask than David Peattie, BP's head of Russia? BP is the biggest foreign investor in the country. Peattie says the TNK partnership has been a huge success, despite its ups and downs. Since TNK-BP was launched in 2003, Russia has earned $150bn (￡95bn) in taxes and duties, while BP has made $19bn in dividends ? and the dividend to BP's shareholders last year was largely covered by the $3.7bn TNK cash dividend. While the spat with TNK over the failed Rosneft deal is still going through the courts, Peattie says personal relations with the three oligarchs are good: "There's never a dull moment."But is it worth the gamble? BP certainly thinks so, as does The CityUK, which points out that it's because the Russians want to improve their reputation that the City has been invited in.Who knows? But maybe the City can do some good by helping to check the wilder side of the Russian bear.Darrington takes a bite out of businesses which refuse to accept pay criticismHooray for Sir Michael Darrington, the former chief executive of the cheerful Greggs pie-to-pastry shops. Darrington brought some much-needed sense into the great pay debate last week when he said business was wrong to view the recent criticism of boardroom pay as anti-business.Quite the reverse, he says. It is business that is being anti-business by attacking the criticism, and by defending its own pay levels. Or, as Darrington put it with the bluntness of a Greggs butty: "It is a smokescreen and a lot of bollocks ? it is the greed of the people [at the top] that is anti-business."What friends he may have in the business world will have been tearing their hair out when he added: "If the current packages were halved, senior executives and bankers would still be overpaid."If business does want society to be pro-business ? which largely it is ? then more notice should be taken of Darrington's comments. While he's the latest to break ranks with his peers, and now plans his own campaign against excessive boardroom pay deals, he's not the first. That accolade goes to Sir Owen Green, the ex-boss of BTR that became Invensys, who was the first UK businessmen to warn on excessive pay awards in the early 1990s. Owen predicted then that the sky-high packages being paid to businessmen would lead to social problems, even civil unrest. Public shame was his answer to the problem.Antonio Horta-Osorio, the thoughtful Lloyds Banking Group chief executive, seems to have taken this on board. His decision to claw back bonuses from executives at the time of the PPI mis-selling scandal is the right one, and he should be praised for taking such a bold move. As Lloyds' results showed, the bank has also slashed bonuses to executives by 50 per cent ? and to staff by 30 per cent ? following its ￡3.5bn loss. Taxpayers are now sitting on a ￡10bn loss.RBS also cut back its bonus pool. If your company is loss-making, you could argue that executives shouldn't be taking any bonus at all. Being pro-business means you share in failure as well as success.?The Baroness, a non-executive director of Royal Bank of Scotland, took part in the most extraordinary interview on the Today radio programme last week, on the Davies report, in which she said the fixation on quotas was silly, and that even a board of 20 men could be considered a balanced one, provided that the men think differently.Then she showed her prejudice even more by asking why people say having more women on boards would bring a different perspective. Hello? Well, even the great John Humphrys choked at this, calling on Sarah Montague to help persuade Noakes that surely having a gender mix, as well as different personalities, would be healthy?Noakes wasn't having it; nor did she think the Norwegian experience, where the government introduced quotas making it compulsory for companies to have 40 per cent of women on their boards, was a good one.In fact, she was contemptuous, arguing that quotas have led to Norwegian women holding seven or eight NED jobs each. So? What's wrong with that? The former Conservative House of Lords Treasury spokesman omitted to say that she also sits on the boards of Carpetright and Severn Trent, is on the audit committee of both RBS and Severn, and is a co-director of the Thomson-Reuters Share Foundation. Not much free time, then.As any thoughtful person will understand, taking the sort of brave leap which the Norwegians did requires time to work through, with constant updating and refining. All the people I've spoken to in Norway are pleased with the progress so far, but they know, too, that it's only by increasing the pipeline at the executive level, that they will get a supply of more women available in the pool for the NED roles. And it's only by having more women on the boards that you encourage more women to come up the executive level; so, a virtuous circle.Quotas are imperfect; tackling sensitive issues always will be. But, as Norway has shown, taking bold decisions by introducing fixed quotas, and, in France, by threatening them, is having a dynamic impact on board composition and bringing about swift change. The French have set a quota that 40 per cent of the boards of leading firms should be female within five years, and since it was announced the number has shot up from 13 per cent to 20 per cent. French luxury-goods maker LVMH has gone even further, and has pledged to promote women so that they take up 30 per cent of its executive positions.But the UK experience, since Davies suggested that a quarter of all NEDs be women by 2015, hasn't been great; in fact, it's lamentable. Only 33 companies from the FTSE 100 have bothered to inform him of their plans. And, of the 93 new board seats up for grabs since February, only 21 have gone to women. The number of women on FTSE 100 boards has only risen from 12.5 per cent to 14.2 per cent, and from 7.8 per cent to 9.9 per cent at the FTSE 250 firms, although half of these have no women at all on their boards. The really bad boys are those in the FTSE 300, but David Cameron hopes to shame them into action by writing them a letter; good luck to him.If the increase continues at this rate it will take at least another 20 years to achieve the levels which everyone from top businessmen such as CBI president Sir Roger Carr to the Prime Minister agrees is not just fair, but also good for business. There's masses of research which shows that having more women on boards improves productivity and overall performance of companies, a point made again by Cameron last week.You only have to look at Burberry, where two top women ? Angela Ahrendts is chief executive and Stacey Cartwright is finance director ? are enjoying spectacular success, demonstrating that big change only happens when diversity gets to a certain scale. This is a numbers game.That's why listening to Noakes is so dispiriting. She speaks to the "only woman in the room syndrome" which dominates so many of our boardrooms, where the female directors seem to quite like being the queen bees and don't want other women around.Oddly enough, men don't seem to mind having these personalities around them either, perhaps because they act like men. This is partly what's wrong with the present culture; all too often, the male relationships on the board have a touch of the homoerotic about them. And there's a tribal element to it all, too ? a deep need in the male psyche to train younger colleagues in their own image.One wonders if one of the reasons that Davies and Cameron are so resistant to fixed quotas is that they are listening to too many "only woman in the room" types. There are also a lot of senior women who secretly believe in fixed quotas, but who fear that if they say so publicly, they risk being seen as overly radical.If Mr Cameron is so persuaded that having more women on boards is for the economic good, then he should waste no time ? just take the plunge and set a date for fixed quotas. If he doesn't, the EU will do it for him, next March. Moving now could also help Cameron out on the women's vote he's so worried about losing, as I can't think of another single action which could be introduced ? cost free ? that would show the female population that he is serious about fairness. Nearly half the workforce is female, and half of all graduates are women; yet they are shut out from reaching their potential. (We need to make childcare tax-deductible, but that's for another day).Those who argue against quotas claim that they create tokenism ? that the women are there for show alone. But surely if all the compelling arguments dictate that company performance does increase with more women on boards, then that can't be true.The other big obstacle often raised is the one of supply; that the gene pool of women is too small. This is rubbish ? search firms will just have to look harder. The women are there, it's just that they are invisible, tucked away in marketing, or human resources ? corners ignored by headhunters. In France, Christine Lagarde, now head of the IMF, was so fed up with businessmen bleating about how they couldn't find enough women that she sent them all a list of 50, just off the top of her head.By all accounts, boards would be all the stronger for more diversity; you need at least three women to make a difference. Research also shows that women tend to be more challenging to "groupthink", more able to think "blue sky". It sounds as though the accountancy-trained Noakes needs more of them with her on the RBS board. On an earlier radio programme on the same day last week, the Radio Five presenter asked if she would ever tell a banker that his bonus was too big. Her reply? "I'm not sure I would be brave enough." Says it all.?As caution gripped the City floors, the betting stocks were given a kicking, with Sportingbet a particular target.The shares dropped 1.75p to 46.5p as Investec analyst Paul Leyland cut the stock to "sell" over fears Ladbrokes' takeover approach was set to fall apart. The broker raised concerns that Sportingbet had not offloaded its Turkish arm. "We believe it will be very difficult to disentangle Turkey 'cleanly', which we believe is critical to the deal consummating," he said.The miners were under pressure as copper came under pressure. Simon Denham, head of spread-bettor Capital Spreads, said the metal "has seen a real slowdown in demand and the metal is taking its biggest beating since the start of the global recession".Kazakhmys was the worst performer, giving up 41p to close at 793p. Yet two miners unexpectedly shrugged off the torpor, with Fresnillo top of the blue chips at the close. After losses the previous day, it was up 72p to 1,586p.China's purchasing managers' index figures cast a shadow over the session, as traders feared growth in the country could stall. Citi also released a note that said: "China's vulnerability to global slowdown shouldn't be underestimated: total exports account for more than a quarter of GDP and the export sector employs a big army of labour."This contributed to the continued decline of the FTSE 100. It had fallen 20 points the previous day, and gave up a further 68.36 points to finish the quarter at 5128.48. The Hong Kong index had suffered overnight, led lower by its banks, which was also reflected in UK trading. Worst on the day was Standard Chartered, which is also heavily exposed to Asia. UBS also yesterday shaved its 2011 forecasts by 4 per cent as it predicted trading revenues would fall, and reduced forecasts of balance-sheet growth from 15 per cent to 12 per cent and lifted impairment growth to 20 per cent. The shares closed down 71p to 1,287p.Also down in the banking sector was Barclays. The group fell 7.8p to 161.35p on sector pressure, as well as news that it had been slapped with a lawsuit from HSH Nordbank over losses related to residential-backed security losses. The claim said Barclays misrepresented the quality of the underlying loans and seeks at least $40m.UBS was instrumental in pushing testing group Intertek right to the bottom of the blue chips as it downgraded the stock from "neutral" to a "sell" after pointing out the sector was "not immune to slowdown". UBS's analysts went on to say that margins were likely to be flat for the next 12 months. It also downgraded French peer Bureau Veritas. Shares in Intertek plunged close to 10 per cent, down 195p to 1,855p.On the second line there were several more stocks in the blue. Among the top risers was RPC Group. The plastic-packaging company put out a bullish trading statement predicting a higher first half as its takeover of Superfos in December continues to pep up the results. Panmure Gordon said the medium-term outlook was "better than most", helping the shares up 10p to 337p. Worst on the day was Afren, which gave up 9.75p to 81.25p.In the wider market Alterian shares took a tumble after the group said its company review would not consider a sale of the business. New chief executive Heath Davies kicked off the review when he arrived earlier this month and the company said it should be wrapped up in time for its interim results in November. Yet the shares retreated 11.75p to close at 63p, a drop of almost 16 per cent, after the statement added: "For the avoidance of doubt, the review is not investigating an option to sell the business."Just Car Clinic decided it was time to hit the road, with the announcement it was to cancel its listing on the Alternative Investment Market. Shareholders in the repair group, whose website says it is "smiles better", were not grinning as the shares plummeted 45 per cent following the news. The group said the "perceived" benefits of an AIM listing included the ability to tap the equity markets, a higher profile, and incentivisation of staff. "After almost nine years as an AIM-quoted company, the company is not receiving these benefits to any extent that would justify the costs and management time associated with maintaining its status as an AIM company," it said. It is worrying news for the growth market, which saw 70 companies de-list in the first half. Just Car closed down 13p at 15.5p.Also down on the AIM was San Leon Energy, though it actually had some good news to announce. The oil and gas group, which goes digging around in Poland and Morocco, was back in profit after a one-off payment from selling off an interest in the Rockall licence. Pre-tax profits for the first six months of the year hit ?1.4m, up from a loss of ?1.7m. Shares closed down 0.75p at 14.5p.FTSE 100 RisersRandgold Resources 6290p (up 160p, 2.6 per cent)Along with Fresnillo, precious metals group manages to avoid sector rout.United Utilities Group 624p (up 4p, 0.65 per cent)Investors rush towards defensive embrace of the utility companies.Autonomy Corporation 2550p (up 6p, 0.24 per cent)Software company sneaks into positive territory as merger approaches.FTSE 100 FallersLloyds Banking Group 34.8p (down 1.6p, 4.4 per cent)Financial services sector remains under pressure, while Evos cuts Lloyds to "neutral"Man Group 168.5p (down 7.5p, 4.2 per cent)Hedge fund to double job cuts to 400 just days after the group reveals significant customer outflows.Burberry Group 1174p (down 27p, 2.2 per cent)Designer clothes group feels more pain as investors fear for China growth .FTSE 250 RisersDomino's Pizza 445.5p (up 18.1p, 4.2 per cent)Fast food group rebounds after two-day declines on some disappointing sales.QinetiQ Group 116.7p (up 3p, 2.6 per cent)Investors respond well to trading update as defence group says the first half was better than expected.Electra Private Equity 1360p (up 6p, 0.4 per cent)Buyout group announces sale of heating business Thermea Group.FTSE 250 FallersAquarius Platinum 177.3p (down 12.7p, 6.7 per cent)US broker Citi cuts mining group's price target to 200p from 261p.Millennium & Copthoren Hotels 401.7p (down 13.3p, 3.2 per cent)Company declines as sector comes under pressure.Aegis Group 124.5p (down 2.7p, 2.12 per cent)Shares slide after Natexis cuts company price target from 175p to 170p?The stock plummeted by 10.7p to 168.3p after Goldman Sachs downgraded its rating to "sell". Mothercare has lost nearly 75 per cent of its value since December.Criticising the company for its "mid-market position" compared with the supermarkets' offerings, the broker's analysts refused to paint a pretty picture of the future, warning that Mothercare's losses in the UK would only get worse, with like-for-like sales falling until 2014. Goldman was similarly bearish about other high-street chains, saying it was increasingly cautious about the outlook for household and discretionary spending next year. As a result, it told punters in Halfords (whose stock fell by 12.7p to 327.1p) and Home Retail (down 5.8p to 100.1p) to get rid of their shares. Goldman also cut its advice on SuperGroup, owner of the Superdry and Cult clothing brands, to "neutral" and its shares fell by 10p to 624p.Instead, Goldman recommended retailers exposed to emerging economies rather than just Europe. It kept luxury goods retailer Burberry on its conviction buy list, although the shares were still knocked back 66p to 1,341p.Growing unease about last week's eurozone agreement, not helped by China appearing to play down the level of support it will provide to the region, pushed the FTSE 100 back 158.02 points to 5,544.22. However, overall the blue-chip index jumped more than 8 per cent in October ? its best month since July 2009.The banks were mired deep in the red, as Royal Bank of Scotland and Lloyds dipped 2.06p to 24.23p and 2.66p to 32.5p, respectively. Barclays fared slightly better after its third-quarter results, although it was still pegged back 5.9p to 195.3p.The miners were hit by a double blow from the Far East. As well as Japan's attempt to rein back the strength of the yen prompting the dollar to rise and, therefore, commodity prices to drop, the sector was also left behind by pessimistic comments by the China Iron and Steel Association about demand in that country. Vedanta Resources ended up with the wooden spoon, falling 126p to 1,278p, and Kazakhmys moved 89.5p lower to 927.5p.There was little bid chatter to get excited about. Dealers desperate for a gossip turned to the US, where vague speculation suggested that the retailer Bed Bath & Beyond might become a takeover target.In fact, the main topic of conversation was MF Global (spun out of Man Group in 2007) as the futures broker filed for bankruptcy in New York. Despite Man clarifying that it now has no links with MF Global, the world's largest hedge fund still retreated by 3.5p to 149.9p as market voices noted increasing nervousness ahead of next Thursday's interim results.Homeserve was in a severe state of disrepair on the FTSE 250, slumping 27.88 per cent to 350p. The insurer, which describes itself as the "fifth emergency service", had suspended sales at the weekend amid mis-selling concerns, following an internal review and one conducted by Deloitte.An expansion to a project in Equatorial Guinea helped Ophir Energy, with the oil and gas explorer rising by 3p to 267.4p. At the other end, New World Resources continued its recent volatile run. After seeing its share price rise by a fifth last week, the miner fell back 77p, or 12.88 per cent, to 521p.William Hill dropped 6.3p to 216p after the Numis Securities analyst Ivor Jones scorned the bookie's claims that problems at its online operations in Israel had been successfully resolved. Mr Jones warned: "The consequences will not be clear for some months."The news that Visa Europe had taken a 8.8 per cent stake in Monitise pushed the mobile payments provider up 2.75p to 38p on the Alternative Investment Market. The gossips were claiming that a similar situation could happen with its peers Earthport (which rose 0.5p to 18.5p) and Western Union, with the two having announced last month that they were working together.The small-cap insurance consultancy Charles Taylor slipped 12p to 132p after admitting it would just fail to meet its full-year expectations. On the fledgling index, the office supplies group office2office blamed government cuts for the fact that it was also on course to miss its targets. Its shares duly fell 10.5p to 148.5p. There was better news from the drug-maker Skyepharma, which rose 12p, or 24.49 per cent, to 61p after getting approval for its anaesthetic product Exparel from the US Food and Drug Administration.?The latest revival of the rumours claimed a private equity consortium could be considering making an offer worth between 160p and 180p a share with the aim of installing a new management team potentially led by Sir Stuart.As well as previously heading up both the Top Shop-owner Arcadia and Marks & Spencer, Sir Stuart is already familiar with Argos, having been chief executive of the catalogue chain in the late 1990s for a short period. One of his current roles is sitting on the advisory board of private equity firm Bridgepoint, whose retail investments include clothing group Fat Face and sandwich chain Pret a Manger.Analysts were treating the vague gossip ? which also suggested, once again, that Asda-owner Walmart may be interested ? with a heavy pinch of salt. One questioned whether Sir Stuart would be attracted to the job, while another said any potential private equity bidder would want to wait and see how the company performs over the key Christmas period.Home Retail touched a high during trading of 91.75p, before closing 0.8p ahead at 90.4p. It means the retailer has now added nearly 25 per cent in the last six sessions after having fallen to an all-time low of 72.45p.Despite spending a lot of the day ahead, the FTSE 100 finished 16.08 points in the red at 5,489.34, failing to capitalise on Wednesday's rally of more than 3 per cent which was prompted by the central banks' attempts to boost liquidity.Many of the heavyweight miners were struggling to keep hold of their recent gains following poor manufacturing figures emerging from China overnight. Vedanta Resources eased back 8p to 1,054p after Credit Suisse downgraded its rating to "neutral", as the broker's analysts said they saw "better risk reward elsewhere". Lowering their earnings estimates across the sector, they instead named Xstrata (down 9p to 1,008p), Glencore (down 6.25p to 392.25p) and Rio Tinto (down 35p to 3,304p) as their favourites.Burberry continued to rise as Seymour Pierce's Kate Calvert kept her "buy" recommendation. The upmarket brand climbed 38p to 1,308p despite its peer Coach ? the luxury handbag maker favoured by Gwyneth Paltrow ? sliding on its first day of trading in Hong Kong.The Bank of England's insistence that the banks increase their capital buffer left many in the sector weaker, with Lloyds slipping back 39p to 759p. Royal Bank of Scotland retreated 0.44p to 20.55p even though Evolution Securities' Ian Gordon reiterated his "buy" advice, claiming there was "overwhelming, absolute and relative evidence" that it would not need to raise capital. BP was pegged back 6.4p to 454.35p after announcing the sale of its Canadian natural gas liquids operations in a $1.67bn deal, the latest in a run of disposals to cover the costs of the Gulf of Mexico tragedy. The oil giant fell despite the revival of break-up talk, as Investec speculated its refining and marketing division could become a "disposal or demerger candidate".Rumours of a potential bid in the pipeline pushed Diploma towards the top of the FTSE 250, and although the vague whispers failed to mention a name, the services provider still advanced 12p to 345.4p.There have been a number of takeovers among the capital goods companies recently, which prompted the scribblers at Credit Suisse to try to work out who could be next to receive an approach. Estimating the sector's big names could have roughly $130bn with which to play with, the analysts chose six names as possible targets, including Spectris and Rotork, although they were pegged 11p to 1,241p and 12p to 1,796p respectively.A warning that it was on track to miss expectations thanks in part to car crash numbers falling left Ai Claims in the red, as the accident management firm dropped 2.25p to 21.25p on the Alternative Investment Market.Meanwhile, drinks group Global Brands' announcement that it hopes to delist its shares in an attempt to save cash prompted punters to jump ship, leaving it 64.44 per cent weaker at 0.4p.There was some rare good news for tiddler Hot Tuna as the beleaguered surf wear company revealed a distribution deal for Australia and New Zealand, soaring 40 per cent to 0.05p as a result.?With United Rentals paying a premium of almost 60 per cent to RSC's share price, many in the City were scrambling for their calculators to reassess Ashtead's value. Numis Securities worked out that if the same asset valuation was applied, the US operations of Ashtead alone could be worth as much as 313p a share.The tie-up was being seen as a vote of confidence for the US equipment rental market, which provides over 80 per cent of Ashtead's revenues. Numis reassured fears the move may end up harming the company, saying that it did not pose "a significant competitive threat ... and may actually offer an opportunity to gain a small amount of market share".There was also speculation further consolidation in the sector may see the group attract an admirer itself, with Numis' Mike Murphy saying that at some point "you might think Ashtead could be on United Rental's list of companies it may try to buy".Overall, it looked as if the FTSE 100 was going to finish the week on a high, but a late slump on ? what else? ? eurozone fears left it 13.51 points weaker at 5,387.34 by the bell. Despite rumours during the session that Standard & Poor's could be about to downgrade a number of European countries, Royal Bank of Scotland and Lloyds charged ahead 0.36p to 20p and 0.43p to 24.5p respectively. Barclays actually had its credit rating cut, by Fitch, but it also moved higher, shifting up 0.95p to 171.45p.The miners were still on the rebound, cheered by whispers continuing to swirl that China may be preparing to cut its reserve ratio for banks once again. With encouraging economic data coming out of the US as well, bouncing metal prices saw Antofagasta tick up 42p to 1,172p while Kazakhmys put on 27p to 874p.At the foot of the top-tier index, Essar Energy slumped to yet another record low, with the Indian giant's slide of 8.8p to 184.9p meaning it has shed over 25 per cent in less than a fortnight.Investors in the blue-chip index were clearly not in a charitable mood. Drugs giant GlaxoSmithKline was 15p lower at 1,443p despite announcing it was increasing the number of pneumonia vaccine doses it is selling at a discount for use in developing countries.Meanwhile, Burberry dipped 10p to 1,138p as the luxury brand's chief executive Angela Ahrendts gave more than ￡500,000 in shares to her charity the Ahrendts-Couch Family Foundation, which it then sold.A week in which it released its third profits warning of the year got worse for Logica yesterday. The IT services firm dropped 2.25p to 59.7p on the FTSE 250 amid claims its specialist staff means it has less chance of becoming a bid target.Takeover chatter has been circling the group recently thanks to its share price shedding nearly 60 per cent in under 10 months, yet Panmure Gordon's George O'Connor queried why a bidder would be interested in its "expensive experts" when recent deals in the sector show "they want generic skills".While his football club Newcastle United may have slipped down the Premier League recently, Mike Ashley's Sports Direct was top of the mid-tier index last night. The retailer was pushed up 20p to 210p on relief that it has decided not to make a bid for Blacks Leisure, with the news leaving the struggling tents seller 0.25p worse off at 2p.Hovis-owner Premier Foods ticked up 0.23p to 5.95p in the wake of its announcement late on Thursday that it had agreed a ?41.4m disposal of a number of its brands.It was a case of too little, too late, however, with it being one of the companies ? which also includes Thomas Cook (down 0.26p to 15.49p) and Mothercare (down 4.4p to 158.4p) ? who are starting life as a small-cap stock on Mondayafter being relegated in the latestindices reshuffle.A U-turn from Global Brands meant that the Domino's Pizza-franchisee's share price rose by two-thirds on AIM. The group, which runs the takeaway business in Switzerland, Luxembourg and Liechtenstein, had wanted to delist, but has now changed its mind.While its pizza operations will be demerged as an private company, it plans to stay listed as an investment vehicle ? news which prompted the tiddler to jump 0.38p to 0.6p.Yell Group was fired up 9.18 per cent to 5.71p on the small-cap index amid vague optimism surrounding the struggling Yellow Pages-publisher's attempts to restructure its debt.FTSE 100 RisersOld Mutual 126p (up 2.3p, 1.86 per cent)After climbing over 11 per cent on Thursday as it revealed it has agreed to sell its Nordic operations for $3.2bn, insurance group continues to rise.Whitbread 1,538p (up 10p, 0.65 per cent)Costa Coffee and Premier Inn-owner still advancing despite Fitch Ratings announcing that it expects the European hotels market to weaken next year.FTSE 100 FallersMan Group 127.6p (down 5.9p, 4.42 per cent)World's largest listed hedge fund finishes close to the foot of the blue-chip index after Deutsche Bank downgrades its recommendation to "sell".Imperial Tobacco 2,325p (down 72p, 3 per cent)With its share price having added close to 8 per cent over the past three weeks, owner of Lambert & Butler and Davidoff suffers a heavy loss.FTSE 250 RisersCarpetright 516.5p (up 39p, 8.17 per cent)Floor coverings retailer still getting a boost from its interim results earlier in the week, as it rises for the fourth straight day, during which time it has added more than 30 per cent.Imagination Technologies 543p (up 18.5p, 3.53 per cent)Chip designer given a push by Barclays initiating coverage with an "overweight" rating while Canaccord upgrades to "hold" from "sell".FTSE 250 FallersShanks 95.1p (down 6.4p, 6.31 per cent)Waste management company is knocked back by Goldman Sachs' decision to take it off the broker's "buy list" and reduce its target price to 138p.Drax 527p (down 18.5p, 3.39 per cent)Power station operator sees its share price fall back to a six-week low after the analysts at Credit Suisse raise their price target from 350p to 440p.?The group closed last night as one of the worst fallers on the Footsie after announcing it had stopped drilling its Jaguar-1 well off the shore of Guyana thanks to safety concerns. Although Tullow did uncover some oil, the news it was plugging and abandoning the well prompted it to dive 47p to 1,386p.While there were claims the move was overdone, the description of the well as "high pressure [and] high temperature" did prompt some to point out it was the same type as BP's well at the centre of the Gulf of Mexico tragedy in 2010.Tullow's decline was nothing compared to that suffered by Borders & Southern, however. Punters in the Falkland Islands-explorer were left squealing with pain after it admitted its Stebbing well had only found gas, and even then not enough for it to be commercial. The disappointing update, in which the company also revealed technical problems had stopped it drilling as deep as hoped, saw it slump a huge 44.25p to 18p. Its fellow Falkland drillers were also weaker, with Falkland Oil & Gas and Rockhopper retreating 6.75p to 79.5p and 32p to 222.75p.Borders' fall left it even further away from April's all-time high of 131p, which it reached on rumours of impending bullish drilling results before losing a third of its value the next day after revealing it had found gas condensate instead of oil. The pain didn't stop there for the explorers ? Kazakhstan-focused Max Petroleum moved down 0.21p to 2.94p after admitting it needed further cash to complete the drilling of its NUR-1 well and Cove Energy was driven back 37.5p to 238p by Royal Dutch Shell (7.5p higher at 2,300p) pulling out of the bid battle for the Mozambique-focused group, with the 240p-a-share offer from Thailand's PTT the only one left standing.A sedate session for the FTSE 100 saw it finish a mere 3.7 points weaker at 5,662.43, with many waiting to see if US Fed boss Ben Bernanke's testimony to Congress later this week will contain any clues on the likelihood of further quantitative easing.In its worst fall since it came to light last week that the security services company would not be able to fulfil its Olympics contract, G4S was smacked back 24.1p to 254.6p after scribb lers from Panmure Gordon, Numis Securities, Seymour Pierce and UBS all decided they should remove their "buy" recommenda tions.Resolution's climb of 5.9p to 218.3p was accompanied by market gossips reviving vague speculation that Clive Cowdery's insurance conglomerate could be interested in another move for Phoenix. The life insurer advanced 17.4p to 510p on the FTSE 250, although traders were playing down the reheated rumours. Still, there has been support towards the idea recently ? earlier in the month Berenberg's Matthew Preston argued the "tie-up makes the most strategic sense".Barclays ? which last week extended its sponsorship of the Premier League until 2016 ? fell 4.45p to 157.37p to set a new post-Libor scandal low. This was despite the efforts of Investec's Ian Gordon, who said it was "fighting a war against prejudice and ignorance" and advised investors to keep "the faith, buy the shares".Vodafone ticked up 1.95p to 184.83p following reports claiming a ￡2.9bn dividend payout from the mobile phone giant's US joint venture Verizon Wireless could be green-lit this week.Activist investor Bill Ackman's recent decision to buy a stake in US consumer goods giant Procter & Gamble (P&G) was highlighted as bullish for Marmite-owner Unilever by Liberum Capital's Pablo Zuanic. He claimed a "pruned P&G... should increase the pressure on Unilever to divest a large chunk of its food business" as the group crept up 2p to 2,144p.After watching the miner's shares jump 75 per cent to rise above 3p during trading, bosses at Noventa were forced to put out a statement claiming ignorance regarding the move, although by the bell it was still 0.18p better off at 1.92p on Aim.FTSE 100 Risers International Airlines Group 160p (up 4.2p, 2.7 per cent) British Airways owner finishes high up the blue-chip leaderboard on what was expected to be a record day for traffic at Heathrow. Smiths Group 1,052p (up 15p, 1.45 per cent) Engineer is one of the top risers after announcing it has managed to get rid of its minority stake in Cross Match Technologies for up to $77m (￡49.29m).FTSE 100 Fallers Sage 276p (down 9p, 3.16 per cent) Accountancy software group retreats as Numis Securities' analysts downgrade their advice to "hold" in reaction to the release of its third-quarter update. Burberry 1,207p (down 22p, 1.79 per cent) Luxury brand knocked back after the scribes from UBS reveal they have cut their target price on the stock to 1,290p from 1,450p and kept their "neutral" rating.FTSE 250 Risers FirstGroup 200p (up 10.3p, 5.43 per cent) Public transport company drives higher up the mid-tier index as the Government reveals a ￡9.4bn investment programme for the UK's rail network. Britvic 280.6p (up 7.5p, 2.75 per cent) Despite advancing for a third straight day, soft drinks maker has still lost more than 16 per cent since announcing earlier in the month a recall of its Fruit Shoots drinks.FTSE 250 Fallers Petropavlovsk 439.9p (down 21.7p, 4.7 per cent) Gold digger retreats after analysts from Goldman Sachs slash their target price on the stock by 460p to 520p while reiterating their "neutral" recommendation. Kenmare Resources 32.47p (down 1.24p, 3.68 per cent) Irish miner continues its recent decline, with the group's share price now having lost nearly 18 per cent since the start of the month.?Saying the licence for sports betting ? with those for casino-style games such as poker set to be awarded soon ? was a "a significant positive", analysts from BarCap added that it was "further evidence that Betfair can become the market leader in European sports betting".Traders also claimed it was a bullish sign for the group's great American hopes, arguing that it could help support Betfair's case if and when online gambling is regulated in the US. There were some in the City hedging their bets. Elections in the German state of Schleswig Holstein ? which awarded the licences ? take place this weekend and the fear is that a change in government could result in a change in policy.However, Morgan Stanley's Vaughan Lewis was doing his best to calm nerves, arguing that "the award of these licences would make changing the regime after the elections much more complicated".Meanwhile, although it was not one of the lucky companies to get a licence, Bwin.Party advanced 5.7p to 156.1p on hopes the Real Madrid-sponsor is among those next in line.The FTSE 100 was strong for much of the day, but poor retail sales figures from the US pushed it into a late slide, although the benchmark index still managed to close 8.44 points stronger at 5,766.55. Events from across the Atlantic are likely to dominate today's session as well thanks to the release of the closely watched, non-farm payroll figures.A busy week for results continued as Smith & Nephew was given a leg-up by forecast-beating, first-quarter figures, with the prosthetics manufacturer finishing 24p higher at 629.5p. Elsewhere, luxury brand Burberry was pushed up 21p to 1,536p by better-than-expected results from French rival Hermes.The takeover spotlight was back on Sage as the business software firm announced it was working with US giant Microsoft. Merchant Securities' Roger Phillips said the deal could "ultimately reawaken the long-dormant Sage-Microsoft bid rumours", although he did concede there were "significant barriers to such a deal". "Nevertheless, we continue to see Sage as a potential... M&A target, either for a trade vendor or for private equity," Mr Phillips added, as the group crept up 1.5p to 289.6p.Sentiment around Weir was showing little sign of improving ahead of the engineer's first-quarter results next week. The group has plenty of fans among analysts ? RBC Capital's scribes said it was "pricing-in downgrades that we consider unlikely" ? but its shares were still knocked back by 64p to 1,616p, its lowest for nearly seven months.Three months after completing the sale of its struggling Comet chain, Kesa Electricals was continuing to slim down as the retailer struck a deal to dispose of virtually all of its Darty Telecom unit. With Bank of America Merrill Lynch's Aurelie Caspar suggesting a run of further disposals could follow, the group initially spurted up as much as 10 per cent, although by the bell it was just 0.95p better off at 56.95p.Talvivaara was left 9.6p weaker at 168.2p, a three-year low, after getting a ticking off from the Finnish government. Environment minister Ville Niinisto reportedly warned the nickel miner that unless pollution was reduced at its Sotkamo site by the end of year it could face a fine or even a possible shutdown of the mine.Premier Oil fell 6p to 374.4p on the news the explorer is plugging and abandoning its Stingray exploration well in the North Sea. Broker FoxDavies was supportive, however, saying the "medium-term outlook remains intact" while suggesting that Premier "is also a potential target, especially as it bulks up its North Sea position".Drax edged down 3.5p to 570.5p after having risen nearly 6 per cent over the past two sessions in response to revived takeover speculation. This was despite Liberum Capital's scribblers talking up its takeover bid potential, saying that once the power station operator was able to finalise its plans for biomass there was a "strong strategic rationale for Centrica making an approach".Down on Aim, Empyrean climbed by 0.5p to 9p following the latest from the bid saga between two of its fellow stakeholders in the Sugarloaf shale project in Texas, with Eureka Energy rejecting Aurora Oil & Gas' offer as too low. The tiddler ? which also released its final results yesterday ? has now added more than a fifth over the past four sessions.?Among them was the idea that CSR could be snapped up, with frequent speculation in the past mentioning Intel as one potential aggressor for the mid-tier microchip maker. Last night, however, it closed 5.53 per cent behind at 188p after UBS said the group's recent completion of its merger with US peer Zoran had severely diminished its takeover potential."We have argued previously that CSR's technology in Bluetooth and GPS made it a good candidate as an acquisition," said the broker's analysts, who went on to add that they believed this was less likely now it was more diverse. They also cut their advice on the Cambridge-based company to "neutral", saying that the acquisition meant that the business had become "exposed to less attractive markets and a higher fixed-cost base."Elsewhere, Nomura was downplaying hopes of an imminent break-up for Smiths Group, prompting the engineer 11.5p lower to 938.5p. Persistent chatter has suggested the company could soon dispose of one or more of its five divisions, but Nomura's Juho Lahdenpera argued such a move would not happen within the next 12 months.Downgrading its rating to "neutral", Mr Lahdenpera warned that corporate suitors could be dissuaded from making a move because of Smith's rejection earlier in the year of a ￡2.45bn approach for its medical unit and added that private equity would find it difficult to get the necessary funding for a deal.Investors who had piled in to SABMiller on Thursday due to vague talk of a merger with Budweiser's owner, Anheuser-Busch InBev, were also having their bid dreams dashed. Citigroup's Adam Spielman was not impressed with the story, saying that it was "simply the wrong time for a deal", and the Grolsch brewer dipped 25p to 2,222.5p.Although strong employment figures from the US prompted a brief surge in the middle of the session, it was generally a quiet end to a volatile week for the FTSE 100. Nonetheless, it still managed to ease ahead 12.14 points to 5,303.4, stretching a three-day run that has seen it add nearly 360 points since reaching a 15-month-low on Tuesday. One trader called the rally "amazing", before adding, with his tongue firmly in his cheek, that "clearly the problems have all gone away."The data from the United States gave a boost to Wolseley, with the building supplies group ? which gets 40 per cent of its revenues from the country ? driven up 67p to 1,721p.The gossips were also focused on goings-on across the Atlantic, where vague rumours were doing the rounds that Wells Fargo could make a move for Morgan Stanley. However, the bid speculation failed to make a splash as the investment bank slipped back in early trading on Wall Street.Royal Bank of Scotland and Lloyds took the bottom two spots on the benchmark index, declining 0.74p to 23.62p and 1.21p to 34.66p respectively, after Moody's decided to cut its ratings for the semi-nationalised banks.Meanwhile, Evolution Securities' Ian Gordon turned his attention to Standard Chartered, as the influential analyst upgraded his rating on the bank to "buy". He said that despite the recent issues in the sector, "little has changed to dampen our view of Standard Chartered's bright long-term outlook". It climbed 2p to 1,327p.Alarming whispers that the IT outsourcer could be about to issue a profits warning knocked Logica to a low of 78.75p. The group ? which lost nearly 14 per cent of its share price when it last updated the market in August ? managed a slight recovery, but still ended 1.75p worse off at 79.75p.There was an actual profits warning from Premier Foods, and the UK's largest food manufacturer plummeted 42 per cent to 5.8p after admitting it was in talks with its banks over refinancing plans.It certainly did not help its blue-chip rivals Associated British Foods and Unilever, which slid back 8p to 1,091p and 30p to 2,020p respectively. They were further damaged by mutterings claiming the Swiss giant Nestle has been lowering expectations ahead of its upcoming figures.Back on the mid-tier index, Talvivaara lost over a fifth of its value after a flood of bad news from the Finnish miner, with the nickel and zinc producer cutting its production target and announcing the upcoming retirement of its chief executive Pekka Per.Down on the Alternative Investment Market, Solo Oil spurted up 0.06p to 0.77p, thanks to a ramp-up in the production at its Canadian operations because of the installation of a new pump.However, that was only a minor move compared to the rise of its fellow minnow, PipeHawk. The land mine detection company shifted a huge 117 per cent to 3.25p after revealing it had won two major new contracts.FTSE 100 RisersVedanta Resources 1,160p (up 47p, 4.22 per cent)Miner takes the top spot despite revealing a sharp fall in its iron ore output.Man Group 167.2p (up 4.6p, 2.83 per cent)Hedge fund manager has its Baa2 credit rating affirmed by Moody's.Burberry 1,240p (up 34p, 2.82 per cent)Upmarket brand ends the week on a high ahead of the release of its trading update next Wednesday.FTSE 100 FallersB Sky B 675p (down 14.5p, 2.1 per cent)Broadcaster knocked back on profit-taking following strong rises over previous two sessions.Admiral 1,238p (down 21p, 1.67 per cent)Car insurer continues to fall after being given an "underperform" rating by Exane BNP Paribas on Thursday.Inmarsat 461.6p (down 7.5p, 1.6 per cent)Mobile satellites group has retreated more than 6 per cent in the last week.FTSE 250 RisersThomas Cook 44p (up 3.35p, 8.24 per cent)Tour operator rises despite Espirito Santo starting coverage with a "sell" recommendation.Booker 75.7p (up 3.1p, 4.27 per cent)Cash and carry wholesaler has its price target raised by JP Morgan Cazenove to 79.4p from 73p.Supergroup 727p (up 18p, 2.54 per cent)Retailer still struggling to mount a major rebound following Wednesday's profit warning.FTSE 250 FallersGrainger 87p (down 2.65p, 2.96 per cent)Investors choose to take profits after property developer's 16 per cent gains over previous two days.Michael Page 363.7p (down 7.6p, 2.05 per cent)Recruitment company slides ahead of its third-quarter results on Monday.Domino Printing 439.5p (down 5.2p, 1.17 per cent)Reveals ￡1.4m acquisition of Norwegian software group Kameleon Source Codes.?Last month, it published another confident update and beat quarterly sales forecasts, though there were concerns among some about the impact of the grim state of the global economy. Ahead of the update, signs of weakness in the Chinese economy were partly responsible for declines in shares of luxury goods retailers such as Burberry at the end of September.But the worries took a back seat yesterday, as investors bought in the read-across from the German fashion house Hugo Boss, which upped its earnings outlook yesterday. Boss said it expected Asian sales to almost triple by 2015, with China playing a starring role. This refocused minds on the opportunities for London-listed Burberry, which enjoyed strong gains throughout the session before closing at fourth place on the FTSE 100, up nearly 4 per cent or 49p at 1,402p. Overall, the market was strong, with the blue chips gaining 56.52 points to 5,567.34 last night, although traders highlighted the fact that, with the European debt crisis still unresolved, volumes remained low. Italy was under the spotlight, as Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, who has been at the focus of market concerns about Rome's ability to implement structural reforms, faced a key parliamentary poll on budget policy. In the end, he won the vote but lost his parliamentary majority. The result led to some losses on the benchmark index, but not enough to take into negative territory as traders awaited clarity on the political situation. The mid-cap FTSE 250 index also closed higher yesterday, gaining more than 1 per cent or 117.1 points to 10,419.34.Lloyds was the strongest of the blue chips, rallying by more than 4 per cent or 1.21p to 28.9p despite posting a third-quarter loss. The jump was put down to the positive outlook on margins, which analysts said was supporting investor sentiment around the stock. The remainder of the sector was also firm, with Royal Bank of Scotland gaining 0.08p to 22.33p and Barclays adding 2.65p to 182p. Weir, the pumps and valves business that fell back despite posting a confident update on Monday, regained its composure, rising by 51p to 1,911p, after Credit Suisse reiterated its positive stance. The broker also raised its target for the stock to 2,050p as it blamed profit-taking for the weakness on Monday. "A strong share price performance over the last month and management maintaining rather than upgrading... profit guidance contributed to [the fall]," its analysts said. On the downside, AstraZeneca took the FTSE 100 wooden spoon last night, with disappointing news on an experimental antidepressant drug from the pharma group and partner Targacept dampening the mood around its shares. The treatment failed to meet its goal in a clinical trial, helping to send Astra down by more than 3 per cent or 93.5p to 2,873p.But the trial result wasn't the only factor weighing on the stock. Also muddying the waters was some negative comment from Morgan Stanley, whose analysts lowered their recommendation on Astra to "underweight" from "overweight", with a revised 3,200 target price, against 3,570p previously. They were more positive on blue-chip rival GlaxoSmithKline, which was 18p better off at 1,390p after Morgan Stanley upgraded its stance to "equal weight" from "underweight". Further afield, the chip designer Imagination Technologies shrugged off some questions about its valuation, with the stock rising by a healthy 10p to 470p despite UBS analysts initiating coverage with a "sell" recommendation.The broker said it considered Imagination as "a high-quality company", similar to FTSE 100 listed ARM, "but in graphics". However, the shares did not reflect the competitive risks in its markets, it warned. "With its price to earnings multiple in the top half of its historical range... and limited estimates upside, we believe outcomes are biased to the downside," the broker explained, setting a 400p target price on the stock. ARM was 3.5p higher at 600p. The Superdry retailer Supergroup continued to rally ahead of this morning's second-quarter trading update, gaining another 11.2 per cent or 73p to 725p last night, while Premier Foods, which jumped on Monday after announcing an agreement with lenders to defer an upcoming covenant test, added a further 3.1 per cent or 0.114p to 3.812p.?China's luxury market is believed to be worth roughly $30bn and growing rapidly all the time. Nonetheless, reports emerging from the country claimed a cut in import duties on upmarket goods could be on the horizon as its leaders attempt to boost domestic consumption. Given the rapid growth it has enjoyed from China, Burberry is always sensitive to developments there and the latest news saw it race up 44p to 1,437p.The fashion retailer (whose latest campaign stars Birdsong actor Eddie Redmayne) was also given a helping hand by Goldman Sachs' scribblers raising their target price to a huge 2,604p ? not far off double where it currently trades. If that wasn't enough, the analysts also reiterated their belief that Burberry could become a takeover target, although this idea is hardly a new one.Having slumped more than 100 points on Tuesday, the FTSE 100 managed to make a slight recovery, bouncing up 25.61 points to 5,791.41. It would have been higher if a number of stocks were not trading ex-dividend, with Lucky Strike maker British American Tobacco (down 65.5p to 3,126p) and Irish building materials firm CRH (down 22p to 1,263p) among those losing their payout attractions.Ahead of Carnival's first-quarter results tomorrow, UBS's analysts claimed the fact the announcement was earlier than usual showed the group was "ready to talk" about the impact from the Costa Concordia tragedy. Keeping their "buy" recommendation, they said there could be "some relief now that management will quantify the impact and put a floor on concerns", as the cruise giant powered up 32p to 1,876p.Sainsbury's jumped 3.9p higher to 292.9p following the news that the investment vehicle of the Lebanese prime minister Najib Mikati and his brother Taha has raised its stake to over 3 per cent, with talk claiming they were attracted by its property portfolio.After shocking investors with a profits warning last November, Admiral's final results managed to provide a positive surprise. The insurer shot up 104p to 1,144p ? a move of 10 per cent ? after revealing a forecast-beating 13 per cent rise in its full-year pre-tax profits.The results of the latest indices reshuffle were announced after the bell, and as expected the recent rally by Hargreaves Lansdown ? which put on another 2.7p to 461.8p ? saved it from relegation to the mid-tier index. However, Cairn Energy (down1.3p to 319.7p) and Essar Energy (up 5.4p to 107p) will be moving down when the changes are implemented at the end of next week, with Croda International and Aberdeen Asset Management ? who rose 42p to 2,149p and 6.8p to 246.6p respectively ? taking their place.Cable & Wireless Worldwide set a new six-month high by charging up 7.5 per cent to 33.55p off the back of reports claiming Vodafone (which stayed steady at 170p) is getting nearer to submitting an approach. The move came after the telecoms firm was hit by fears earlier in the week that the mobile phones giant could choose to not make an offer ahead of Monday's "put up or shut up" deadline.Perform shifted 2.1p higher to 272.1p as Credit Suisse revived bid talk around the digital media group.The Swiss broker reiterated its belief that, thanks in part to the company's large portfolio of sports rights, Perform is "likely [to] attract potential acquisition interest".Positive tests meant Afren was confident enough to announce that production at its Okoro East oil field in Nigeria should start in the "near-term", and in response, the explorer was lifted 3p to 174p.It was a definite contrast to Faroe Petroleum, however, which slumped 5.01 per cent to 156.5p on AIM after failing to find commercial oil in its T-Rex and Bolan prospects in the Norwegian Sea.Elsewhere among the oil groups, Red Emperor and Range Resources surged up 31.66 per cent to 32.75p and 8.33 per cent to 13p respectively following a positive drilling update from their joint well in Somalia. Meanwhile, tiddler Matra Petroleum crept up 0.01p to 0.86p despite vague speculation a discounted fundraising could be on its way.On the small-cap index, vague rumours were suggesting Punch Taverns ? which closed 0.5p better off at 11.25p ? might become a bid target, with the pubs group's mid-tier rival Mitchells & Butlers (up 3.3p to 256.6p) put forward as one possible aggressor. However, the tale was being greeted with much scepticism in the Square Mile.?The optimism was the result of some bullish commentary from Jefferies, whose analysts argued that the combination of weak valuation metrics, lower capital expenditure requirements, proven cost control and continued demand from consumers will keep Carnival on a firm footing."Vacations remain high on consumers' agendas, and the all-inclusive value-for -money cruise proposition is becoming increasingly popular," they said, noting that cruises were 20 to 30 per cent cheaper than "the equivalent land-based vacation".Jefferies also highlighted what it viewed as the cruise industry's "unique business model", with the top two operators - Carnival and Royal Caribbean - boasting a combined market share of around 75 per cent. "Barriers to entry are high, in terms of capital investment and time to market. Cruises are priced so ships always sail 100 per cent full, [therefore] maximising onboard spend and economies of scale. The companies pay little or no corporation tax, resulting in attractive cashflows... [and] ageing demographics are driving demand in a lowly penetrated industry," the broker explained, helping Carnival outperform the wider market, rallying by around 1.7 per cent or 34p to 2,086pOverall, equities slipped deeper into the red, with the benchmark FTSE 100 index shedding another 1.1 per cent or 60.2 points to 5,362.94 and the mid-cap FTSE 250 index losing 105.92 points to 10,044.36.Yet again, it was Europe that did it. A whole host of issues kept traders occupied, including volatile sovereign bond yields, speculation that the European Central Bank may lend money to the International Monetary Fund to give it extra firepower, and signs of disagreement between the British and German governments over how to solve the debt crisis."It's the same old story with worries over the eurozone, meaning that the odd brief rally ends up being unsupported and shares turn lower once again," Ben Critchley, a sales trader at the City spread betting firm IG Index, said.Mining shares remained on the back foot as the European debt crisis continued to cloud the demand outlook for key industrial metals. This was despite some mid-afternoon firmness in the copper price, something that was the result of weakness in the US dollar. But equities were pressured, with the FTSE 350 mining index falling by a further 1.6 per cent.Antofagasta was among the losers, retreating by 27p to 1,076p, while BHP Billiton fell by 36.5p to 1,870p and Anglo American closed at 2,359p, down 35p. Vedanta Resources, which took the FTSE 100 wooden spoon on Thursday, was only slightly lower, down 4p to 1,010p. The platinum miner Lonmin was unchanged at 1,021p last night.The luxury goods group Burberry continued to ease, down 25p at 1,244p, with the recent profiting taking trend persisting despite some words of support from Goldman Sachs. "We believe that Burberry's brand positioning, pricing power and margin accretion opportunity from a changing geographical, channel and product mix is not fully reflected in the current valuation," the broker said, repeating its "conviction buy" recommendation, albeit with a lower 2,137p target price, compared to 2,203.6p previously.Further afield, the banknote printer De La Rue, which has had a testing year, was slightly behind at 880.5p, down 4p, despite speculation that France's Oberthur could return with another bid for the business. UBS analysts said Oberthur, which abandoned plans to take over De La Rue earlier this year, is free to renew its interest from 1 December ? and they reckon it "will still be interested", although it will "have to pay up" to succeed."Whilst Oberthur has not completed the divestment of its card systems business, a sale has been agreed subject to competition reviews," UBS said, raising its target price for De La Rue to 950p from 840p. "With around ?1bn from the sale, Oberthur looks a much more serious bidder this time around than it did at the end of last year [the time of its initial bid] when leverage on the deal would have been way too high."Elsewhere, the military equipment manufacturer Chemring was under fire yesterday, slumping by nearly 13 per cent or 62.4 p to 421.6p and taking the mid-cap wooden spoon after spooking investors with its pre-close update.The weakness came after Chemring said full year revenues would fall short of its expectations, as it was hit by contract delays. In response, Finncap analysts switched their stance to "hold" from "buy", noting that while the stock was trading on very low multiples, "with sentiment shaken further we feel the shares will struggle to perform for a while".FTSE 100 RisersBritish Sky Broadcasting 725p (up 4p, 0.6 per cent)Pay TV group says it intends to appoint Aberdeen Asset Management's Martin Gilbert and Lazard's Matthieu Pigasse to its board as independent non-executives.National Grid 642p (up 0.5p, 0.1 per cent)Power distributor stands firm as its defensive characteristics offset the impact of S&P Equity Research's decision to lower its target price for the stock to 630p from 647p.FTSE 100 FallersCapita 640p (down 27.5p, 4.1 per cent)Outsourcing firm tumbles after disappointing investors with its interim management statement; Investec lowers its target price for the stock to 630p from 725p.Centrica 288.9p (down 5.7p, 1.9 per cent)British Gas owner pressured as Goldman Sachs lowers its target price for the stock to 458p from 462p; HSBC cuts its target price to 340p from 370p.FTSE 250 RisersPremier Foods 5.2p (up 0.691p, 15.3 per cent)Food producer bounces back from recent weakness to claim the FTSE 250 crown; group sales director Ian Deste buys 186,746 shares at 5.2p apiece.Pace 46.7p (up 1.15p, 2.5 per cent)TV decoder manufacturer firms up as bargain hunters move in to capitalise on Thursday's sharp gains; JP Morgan Cazenove cuts its target price to 110p from 131p.FTSE 250 FallersCable & Wireless Worldwide 19.86p (down 0.64p, 3.1 per cent)Telecoms group loses ground as the analysts at JP Morgan Cazenove revise their target price for its shares to 24p, down from 48p.Micro Focus International 360p (down 9.3p, 2.5 per cent)IT group retreats despite support from Goldman Sachs, which sticks with its "neutral" stance, but ups its target price to 440p from 400p.?Telling investors to pile into the group, Exane BNP Paribas' Nicolas Didio claimed the "full impact of the BBC's downsizing on ITV's cost structure is yet to come". As well as the Beeb being less competitive in the battle for sports rights, the analyst added that ITV will be able to get better value for money when making deals with studios and recruiting talent such as news anchors and pundits."We estimate that 85 per cent of its broadcasting and online division's costs are sensitive to the BBC's measures," noted Mr Didio, who also said he was more positive on the effect of current advertising trends on ITV than a number of its European peers.As a result, he bumped up his earnings forecasts and raised his price target by more than a quarter to 108p, as ITV finished the session 3.3p stronger at 88.1p.The FTSE 100's rally this week gathered pace, with the top-tier index surging up 100.67 points to 5,766.95. Decent demand for Spain's debt auction helped, as did encouraging German economic sentiment data and forecast-beating results from a number of US giants including Coca-Cola and Goldman Sachs.Barclays raced up 9.75p to 220.55p after Bank of America Merrill Lynch tempted investors in by saying there could be earnings upgrades ahead. At the same time, Lloyds and Royal Bank of Scotland ? both of whom had also dropped over the last couple of sessions ? were lifted 1.24p to 30.95p and 0.93p to 25.2p respectively.Meanwhile, Standard Chartered bumped up 54p to 1,553p amid speculation over the possibility of Singapore state investor Temasek selling its 18 per cent stake in the emerging markets bank.After GDF Suez was forced earlier in the week to up its offer in order to win full control of International Power (0.1p ahead at 416.9p), thoughts were turning towards who else in the sector could attract takeover activity. Saying a lot of M&A among the utilities has focused on the UK, Canaccord Genuity's Harold Hutchinson said this theme was "unlikely to go away".He picked out Centrica, saying it "may be of interest... to the more 'electricity heavy' EU utility groups in future". However, with a number of defensive stocks left towards the bottom of the Footsie as investors went for riskier choices, the British Gas-owner edged back 0.93p to 25.2p.Burberry (down 94p to 1,492p) and Marks & Spencer (down 9p to 358.7p) were the worst two performers after updates from the retailers were greeted negatively, with the former admitting sales growth had slowed over the fourth-quarter.On the FTSE 250, Afren shot up nearly as high as 153p in early trading after saying a major oil discovery in Kurdistan could be "transformational". Although the explorer eased back, by the bell it was still 8.5p stronger at 143p. Fellow Kurdistan drillers Heritage Oil (up 10.3p to 146.5p) and Aim-listed Gulf Keystone Petroleum (up 2.5p to 241.5p) were also ahead.Afren has often been the subject of bid speculation, and traders claimed the latest announcement could only help its appeal. At the same time, Credit Suisse analysts said that ? thanks partly to current high oil prices ? they were expecting "an increase in M&A activity" in the sector. Ophir Energy shifted up 27p to 532.5p after they highlighted it as one of the companies which are looking particularly attractive, while Falkland Islands driller Rockhopper (4p higher at 354p) was another, as was Soco International (10.1p higher at 296p), although it was also downgraded to "underperform" by the Swiss broker.Logica was helped up 3.45p to 82.0p by Investec removing the IT outsourcer's "sell" rating. However, the broker's analysts were hardly gushing, saying that although another profit warning "cannot be ruled out... [it] seems unlikely to happen so soon in the financial year".Futura Medical was 3.5p better off at 101p on Aim as speculation was revived claiming the condom-maker could be in line for an approach from Reckitt Benckiser (up 52p to 3,612p). Traders, however, were not particularly impressed by the chatter.There was more solid bid news around penny stock Plus Markets. The junior exchange, which put itself up for sale in February, rose 0.05 per cent to 1.02p after announcing it was considering a number of possible approaches.Following Argentina's move to renationalise oil firm YPF, Andes Energia ? which operates in the country ? was knocked back a huge 24 per cent to 34p.?Investors have been wary of stocks exposed to the region following the recent unrest, but Mr Latif played down these concerns, saying it was "a significant area for future growth that may not as yet be appreciated by the market".He was by no means Aggreko's only fan. The analysts at Citigroup continued to tell punters to pile into the stock and claimed it would keep benefiting from the gap between demand and supply for power in emerging markets. Meanwhile, Goldman Sachs reiterated Aggreko's place on the broker's "conviction buy" list, highlighting the fact that it is five times larger than its nearest rival.For the few traders left at their desks, there was finally some economic news from the eurozone they could cheer. A successful Spanish bond auction, which saw greater demand than predicted, was accompanied by expectation-beating business confidence figures form Germany.It helped the FTSE 100 to find some positive momentum after two consecutive sessions of falls. The benchmark index was lifted 54.61 points to 5,419.6, mirroring rises on Wall Street, which was buoyant following housing starts in the US rising to an 18-month high.It did no good for the drugs makers, however. AstraZeneca declined 44p to 2,905p after admitting not only had two of its products not performed in trials as hoped but that the failures would cost it ￡242.3m.Coincidentally, its European peers Novartis and Sanofi also announced they had both been hit by setbacks to drugs, and this did not help GlaxoSmithKline as it retreated 5p to 1,445p. Burberry was attracting admiring glances, ticking up 17p to 1,168 as it entered into talks with perfume maker Inter Parfums over their licensing deal that could see the luxury brand buy back the license.Elsewhere on the Footsie, Carnival spent the morning ahead in anticipation of its fourth-quarter figures. However, when the numbers were released mid-afternoon the cruise company sank on signs that booking prices are falling, and eventually closed 6p lower at 2,130p.Down on the FTSE 250, Moneysupermarket.com was driven up 4.55p to 101.8p amid the revival of vague speculation that private equity could be interested in a potential move for the price comparison website. It's an idea that has been suggested before ? and in 2008 the group rebuffed an approach from Canada's Ontario Teachers' Pension Plan ? but dealers dismissed the latest return.Elsewhere, there was no let-up for Ocado, as the online grocer's sell-off continued. The group had already lost nearly 17 per cent on Monday following a profits warning, and yesterday it slipped a further 1.8p to 57.4p after Barclays analysts downgraded their advice to "equalweight".SVG Capital was racing ahead at the opposite end of the mid-tier index, with investors shocked to receive an early Christmas present in the form of a promised cash return worth up to ￡170m. Pushed up 21.14 per cent to 200p, it also said it planned to diversify away from Permira, the private equity firm which currently accounts for more than four-fifths of its investments.It was a good day for takeover fans on AIM. Patsystems jumped up 11.22 per cent to 13.62p after the trading technology group announced it had agreed to be taken over by its largest shareholder, ION Group, in a deal worth 14p a share.Meanwhile, Dhir saw its share price more than double, advancing 21.75p to 37p. The Indian investment group announced its director Alok Dhir had offered 42p a pop for the group, although it said it was considering longer-term strategies as well after its interim results showed a net asset value per share of 74p.On the fledgling index, the mail order gardening group Flying Brands soared 35.48 per cent to 10.5p. The troubled firm announced it had received numerous approaches for various parts of its operations, although it warned that no concrete offer has as yet been submitted.After reports last weekend that Exxon has been mulling over a possible bid, Gulf Keystone Petroleum continued to rise. The explorer climbed a further 9.4 per cent to 195p after revealing it had spudded a new well in the region and amid talk it may have won approval to exit its BG Group-led gas project in Algeria.?Saying there are only "a handful" of potential acquirers for the units, Nomura's David Radclyffe argued a better option could be a merger of the operations before listing the subsequent company. The scribbler ? who gave his creation the not very thrilling moniker "Diamond Newco" ? said that with a "a solid asset base and lower overall sovereign risk", it would create "an attractive alternative to the listed diamond producers". He claimed that only De Beers and Russian state-owned miner Alrosa would be larger diamond businesses, and estimated the group's market value could reach as high as $3.5bn (￡2.19bn).BHP was hardly in glittering form following the proposal, with the digger dropping 30.5p to 1,934.5p, although this was its first fall in three sessions. Meanwhile, Rio Tinto ? which Mr Radclyffe kept as his favourite of the diversified miners ? was somewhat better off, although it still crept down 25.5p to 3,530.5p.The FTSE 100 was unable to push on after a hard rally on Monday sparked by strong manufacturing data from the US. Disappointing factory orders figures meant economic signals from across the Atlantic were less promising yesterday as the benchmark index was pegged back 36.55 points to 5,838.34.Morgan Stanley's decision to call Aberdeen Asset Management a "core pick" in its sector saw the fund manager move up 10p to 269.1p, continuing its strong performance since winning promotion to the top-tier index last month. "Normally you go into the Footsie and it's like the kiss of death," noted one trader. "You're out the next time, in and out like the Hokey Cokey, but not this one".Burberry was another rising on analyst admiration, with the fashion brand strutting up 32p to 1,560p after Investec upgraded its forecasts, saying it was now a "sharper, slicker and more-balanced business".At the other end, fears over the economic situation in both Spain and Italy meant the banks were following their European peers down, with Royal Bank of Scotland knocked back 0.86p to 26.89p while Lloyds and Barclays slipped 0.91p to 32.68p and 6.1p to 230.35p respectively.Whitbread's announcement that its finance chief Chris Rogers is taking control of Costa Coffee gave an extra impetus to recent speculation that a spin-off of the coffee chain could be imminent. Although its boss Andy Harrison moved to play down the talk by denying that there was a "hidden agenda" behind the appointment, the leisure giant still managed to set a new, 15-month high after climbing 4p to 1,870p.Meanwhile, BSkyB finished in the red following the resignation of its chairman James Murdoch, although the move was not too dramatic as the satellite broadcaster crept back 5.5p to 675.5p.While Ian Hannam may be wishing he had never heard of Heritage Oil, punters in the explorer finally had some good news to celebrate. The explorer has suffered a torrid 2012, with its share price losing more than a quarter since the start of the year, yet yesterday it jumped 14.3p ? or 10.36 per cent ? to 152.3p after announcing a new gas find in the semi-autonomous Iraqi region of Kurdistan.But traders noting some grumblings over the find being gas and not oil. In January 2011, Heritage plummeted nearly 30 per cent in just one session following the unveiling of one of Iraq's largest ever gas discoveries, with the City instead hoping for black gold.Cable & Wireless Worldwide pushed up 0.61p to 34.4p after Espirito Santo chose the telecoms group as one of its "silver bullet" stock choices. The broker said that ? after Vodafone (down 0.1p to 175.55p) and Tata recently had their "put up or shut up" deadline pushed back ? it was "increasingly likely" a bid will be made by either, or both, "at a level significantly above the current share price".Down on AIM, JJB Sports raced up 56.1 per cent to 16p after the sports chain responded to rumours by announcing it was talking to both its bank and a "potential strategic" partner over raising funds. The news that Indonesia's Supreme Court appears to have rejected its appeal against the revoking of four mining licenses left Churchill Mining 2.12p ? or 17.35 per cent ? worse off at 10.12p.Vague takeover speculation continued to circle Futura Medical (2.5p stronger at 101p), although traders were not impressed by the talk which suggested Reckitt Benckiser (42p lower at 3,544p) as a potential bidder for the condom-maker.?Aviva Investors, the fund manager, summed up the more cautious opinion. It rates the likelihood of what it calls a "muddling through" with Greece retaining the euro at 40 per cent, an orderly exit from the euro at 40 per cent and the worst case disorderly exit at 20 per cent. For the former they reckon European equities could gain 5 per cent to 10 per cent for the latter another 30 per cent drop is in store. The FTSE 100 fell 16.76 points to 5,467.05 with mutterings of further quantitative easing in the United States doing little to raise sentiment. Man Group topped the losers with a 4 per cent fall to hit a new 12-year low of 69.15p. Bad for investors means even worse for fund managers.Some 15 years of corporate unrest at London brewer Young & Co came to an end as former active investor Guinness Peat placed its 15.5 per cent stake. GP had campaigned for years to end the Young family's domination through the use of split voting shares. To no avail. So GP, which is winding down all its investments sold 4.47 million A shares at 550p and 6.54 million non-voters at 450p. The A shares dipped 10p to 605p.Could the shareholder spring/summer really derail the biggest mining merger in living memory? There is still a month to go until shareholders in Glencore and Xstrata get to vote on the two firms ￡50bn plus merger. But already the rumbles of discontent are louder than a conveyor belt of metal ore loading a massive truck. Xstrata shares were on the slide for the second day running. Among the top losers on the FTSE 100, they were down another 2.2 per cent or 20.4p at 899.6p. That followed the previous day's 5.2 per cent fall. The immediate trigger was the 60 per cent-plus vote against Sir Martin Sorrell's ￡13m pay package at WPP's annual meeting in Dublin on Tuesday. If shareholders are prepared to give Sir Martin a bloody nose, why should they hold back against either Xstrata's Mick Davis or Glencore's Ivan Glasenberg? The major bone of contention is that ￡217m of "retention payments" will be handed to several Xstrata executives if the deal goes through. Major investors are becoming increasingly vocal about the fact that they cannot see how these payments are justified. Since there is no separate vote on this issue at the shareholders' meeting, they may have to register their disapproval by voting the merger down lock, stock and smoking barrel. Glencore was also on the slide, down 13.3p at 341.7p. Fears over a slowing in the rate of growth in sales at fancy handbags maker Mulberry (down 22 per cent) had a knock-on effect at its FTSE 100 rival Burberry whose shares shed 43p to 1,298p. In a football City, last night's scores in the Euros were overshadowed by the price BT and Sky have forked out for the Premier League. They came fourth and fifth on the loser board with BSkyB off 24.5p at 671p and BT down 7.4p at 201.7p.A far from thinly disguised profits warning from IT services group Computacenter received the full drubbing it deserved. A statement, clearly penned by the Obfuscation School of Public Relations, highlighted a 15 per cent-plus increase in its services revenues and significant growth prospects ahead. It was not until the penultimate paragraph that it was revealed gearing up for all this growth will hit profits by ￡7m this year. Traders hit the red button and the shares tanked 43.7p to 313p ? a 21-month low. How appropriate that, on the 30th anniversary of the end of the Falklands War, the company that runs much of the islands' services should come to the stock market for more cash. Falkland Islands Holdings is raising ￡10m through a placing with Savile Row-based Blackfish Capital (￡8m) and an open offer (￡2m) at 320p a share. The extra cash is going to be spent on expanding FIH's facilitie s on the islands including warehousing offices and accommodation to cater for the hundreds of Rockhopper Oil's roughnecks it expects to descend on the Falklands to exploit its recently discovered oil reserves. The shares slipped 10.16p to 345p but remained comfortably above the subscription price. ?Even though just Royal Dutch Shell and Thailand's PTT remain in the fight, the Aim-listed oil explorer moved close to a record high by rising 2p to 266p.Punters are banking on the highest bid currently on the table ? worth 240p-a-share from PTT ? being dwarfed by a counter offer from Shell (up 4.5p to 2,193p), which last week gave itself more time in which to consider its options by extending the deadline for its 220p-a-pop approach.Although Shell at the time chose not to increase its offer, hopes in the Square Mile are certainly high that it will and there are no shortage of numbers being thrown around.Dealers highlighted talk that the energy giant may offer up to 300p, while there was some hopeful speculation it could go even higher.Reports over the weekend were more tempered, however, claiming the most Shell may be considering paying is 275p. Of course, it could also decide not to raise its offer at all ? if so, there will be no shortage of burnt fingers.An early gain was swiftly erased as the FTSE 100 closed just 12.28 points higher at 5,491.09, with any joy following the Greek elections disappearing amid continuing fears over Spain.There was no bounce for the banks ? Royal Bank of Scotland retreated 12.3p to 2353p while Lloyds dipped 1.14p to 30.16p despite being chosen by UBS as one of the broker's favourite European stocks.It was a mixed day for the commodity stocks as Xstrata and Glencore were pegged back 31.8p to 859.2p and 12.05p to 328.4p respectively, with many still fearful investors will reject the proposed merger between the two.Elsewhere, Evraz ? part-owned by Roman Abramovich, pictured ? advanced 4.2p to 275p as it held its annual general meeting. Traders noted the steel maker has shed more than a quarter of its share price since early May.Despite being in the midst of Euro 2012 ? a perfect excuse for football fans to raise their booze intake ? there were some worries around the brewers.Given the poor weather across Europe over the past few months, analysts at Exane BNP Paribas warned that any boost from events in Poland and Ukraine were likely to be offset by the rain."Simply put, we believe that the match pitting Euro 2012 v dreadful weather will be won by the latter," they argued.However, they did point out that Grolsch-owner SABMiller may not be so badly hit because its exposure is wider than some of its rivals, and with perfect timing there came the news that full-year profits at its subsidiary Tanzania Breweries had gained more than a third, helping SAB up 24.5p to 2,478.5p.Upmarket retailer Burberry strutted up 38p to 1,346p after Deutsche Bank's scribblers said that the "luxury sector has never had it so good".Meanwhile, Wolseley fans were out in force. Sam Cullen from Jefferies claimed that the builders' merchant could end up returning as much as ￡1.5bn to shareholders, while Citigroup's Clyde Lewis said he believed the group ? which powered up 57p to 2,233p ? had the potential to be worth a massive 5,000p by 2015.It was a tough first day for Footsie newboy Babcock International, with the defence services group retreating 7p to 865p. Meanwhile, Man Group ? which made way for it by dropping into the FTSE 250 ? eased up 1.6p to 74.4p following the surprise departure of its finance director, Kevin Hayes.Elsewhere on the mid-tier index, Ferrexpo climbed 7.6p to 209.9p as long-standing takeover speculation made yet another reappearance.Gem Diamonds was driven back 7.8p to 201.2p after announcing that, following a tragic accident at its Ghangoo mine in Botswana which killed two workers, production at the site would now be delayed until the first six months of 2014.Down on Aim, Invista was lifted 2.25p to 14.62p by the news that the property company had received and agreed to a ￡40m offer from investment manager Palmer Capital which gazumped an earlier approach from Internos Real Investments.FTSE 100 RisersAshmore 340.9p (up 9.9p, 2.99 per cent) Having dropped sharply at the end of last week, fund manager manages a decent rebound despite JP Morgan Cazenove cutting its target price to 335p from 385p.Rolls-Royce 839.5p (up 17.5p, 2.13 per cent) Engineering giant climbs as it announces that it has signed a nuclear submarines contract worth more than ￡1bn with the Ministry of Defence.FTSE 100 FallersICAP 362.2p (down 3.3p, 0.9 per cent) Interdealer broker finishes the session in the red after shareholders at PLUS Markets approve the sale of the stock market to ICAP for ￡500,000.Anglo American 2,128.5p (down 1.5p, 0.07 per cent) Miner edges back despite analysts at UBS deciding to keep their "buy" recommendation, although they do cut their target price to 3,100p from 3,260p.FTSE 250 RisersCable & Wireless Worldwide 37.77p (up 2.74p, 7.82 per cent) Telecoms company tops the mid-tier index after announcing that shareholders have decide to approve Vodafone's takeover approach.Home Retail 74.35p (up 4.5p, 6.44 per cent) The Argos-owner shoots up ahead of today's interim management statement following yet more takeover speculation over the weekend.FTSE 250 FallersPetropavlovsk 472.2p (down 22.3p, 4.51 per cent) Having gained more than a fifth during the last two sessions, investors take profits in the gold miner as the price of yellow metal moves back.Grainger 83.1p (down 3.6p, 4.15 per cent) Property investor's torrid run continues, with the latest fall meaning the stock has lost nearly eight per cent during six consecutive sessions in the red.?Charging down 63p to 1,682p, the group was left near the foot of the top-tier index after its biggest rival APR Energy signed a five-year collaboration deal with the US giant Caterpillar and its dealer Ring Power.The agreement focuses on developing generators for emerging markets, a particular area of growth for Aggreko. Calling the announcement "noteworthy" for the company, Peel Hunt's Andrew Nussey added that previously "Aggreko has benefited from the more 'fragmented' nature of its competitors and Caterpillar in particular".Numis Securities' Mike Murphy, meanwhile, said the news gave APR "added credibility in the market place", while Caterpillar "gets access to a growth segment which had been out of its reach".APR ? which began trading earlier in the month after being reversed into the investment vehicle of Pizza Express co-founder Hugh Osmond ? pushed up 50p to 1,125p, with Mr Murphy praising the deal as a "major development which should help support its high growth ambitions".The approval by the German parliament of a larger eurozone bailout fund, plus US GDP for the second-quarter being revised upwards to 1.3 per cent, failed to stop the FTSE 100 closing 20.79 points behind at 5,196.84 in a volatile session.Nonetheless, the banks managed to avoid heavy losses, with Lloyds Banking Group creeping down just 0.36p to 36.49p. Meanwhile, Barclays and Royal Bank of Scotland edged forwards 2.75p to 169.15p and 0.4p to 24.5p respectively, while Standard Chartered charged up 36p to 1,358p despite UBS cutting its forecasts for the year by 4 per cent.Rumours that manufacturing data from China for September, set to be released tomorrow, were likely to disappoint swept trading desks in the City, hurting the miners as a result. Kazakhmys retreated 6.5p to 834p even as Citigroup raised its advice to "buy", with the broker saying it was still "bullish on copper prices".Elsewhere in the sector, the end of its governance review ? announced late on Wednesday ? could not prevent ENRC creeping down 3p to 576.5p after the Kazakh company revealed its chairman and chief executive were keeping their jobs.Even bid talk did not revive the miner, despite Liberum Capital saying it remained "a likely merger and acquisition candidate" and that "a possible business combination [with Glencore, down 13.75p to 409.25p] remains compelling".Fears over the growth prospects for China also meant Burberry was out of fashion. Falling in tandem with its global peers, the upmarket brand was left with the wooden spoon after jumping down 8.25 per cent, or 108p, to 1,201p.With Wolseley getting over a third of its turnover from the United States, the positive GDP figures from the country ? as well as better-than-expected home sales data ? resulted in the plumbing and heating group taking the gold medal position. The Build Center owner powered up 99p to 1,601p ahead of the release of its final results next week.Despite shedding nearly 25 per cent on Wednesday after revealing clients had withdrawn $2.6bn over the past three months, Man Group was still being knocked, dropping 4p to 176p. A number of analysts were choosing to stick the boot in, with Royal Bank of Scotland's scribblers downgrading their advice for the world's largest listed hedge fund to "hold", saying the update revealed "how volatile the operating environment is for asset managers".EasyJet was pegged back 1.6p to 353.4p on the FTSE 250 after JP Morgan gave the budget airline an "underweight" rating and warned investors the sector was facing "unprecedented times".The broker claimed the current combination of high fuel prices plus economic gloom for consumers had not been seen by the airlines since the 1970s, although it did say first and business class traffic would outperform. As a result, it started its coverage on British Airways-owner International Airlines Group with an "overweight" recommendation, prompting the blue-chip company to fly up 5.9p to 159.7p.Back on the mid-tier index, Thomas Cook was the top performer after announcing its full-year profit would meet expectations. Investors helped it shift up 2.09p to 39p despite the embattled tour operator scrapping its dividend, with Numis raising its rating to "hold" from "reduce".Down on the Alternative Investment Market, San Leon dipped 1.75p to 15.25p following the energy explorer's announcement it had plugged a wellin Poland, although Fox Davies said the retreat had resulted in a buying opportunity.?IPF ? which focuses on emerging markets, especially in eastern Europe ? was knocked back after Erste admitted it was on course to post a huge loss of ?800m for the year, thanks mainly to being forced to take a major hit by the Hungarian government on foreign currency loans in the country.However, scribblers quickly rushed to the defence of IPF, with Numis Securities' James Hamilton pointing out that it was not exposed to the loans in Hungary. He added that therefore there was "no good reason" for the read-across, but although the support helped to lift the group off its session lows, IPF still closed 22.4p, or 8.82 per cent, worse off at 231.5p.France and Germany's promise over the weekend to unveil a recapitalisation plan for the banks within weeks, plus rising hopes over the discussions regarding the next set of bailout funds for Greece, kept the FTSE 100 bouncing. Climbing 95.6 points to 5,399, the benchmark index has added more than 9 per cent in the four trading days since it reached a 15-month low last week.Arm Holdings grabbed the top spot after the Cambridge-based group was boosted by yet more success from Apple. The US giant, which uses Arm's technology in its products, said it had received more than a million pre-orders for the new iPhone in just one day, helping the chipmaker to shoot up 36.5p to 591p.Bid mutterings saw Petrofac push up 55p to 1,298p, although the vague chatter did not mention the identity of the supposed suitor. Takeover talk was also circling around the miners, with Xstrata being suggested as both predator and prey. The Anglo-Swiss digger advanced 27.1p to 937.1p after Credit Suisse gave its approval to the oft-floated idea of a merger between the company and the commodities giant Glencore International, which was 2.65p higher at 424.65p.Analysts from the broker said the recent divergence of the companies' share prices meant that Glencore "could use its premium-rated equity and pay a significant premium without a deal being dilutive", as they reiterated their "outperform" advice on both.The City gossips, meanwhile, were suggesting that Xstrata could be in the market to make its own acquisition. Vague chatter speculated that both it and ArcelorMittal could be interested in making an offer for AIM-listed Coal of Africa, although the South Africa-focused group ? a frequent subject of bid rumours ? eased ahead just 1.25p to 47.5p despite the talk mentioning a potential price of 120p a pop. Rumours that one of its peers could be setting a trap helped Rentokil Initial to clean up on the FTSE 250. The multi-tasking group, which does everything from pest control to hazardous waste disposal, was lifted 2.95p to 69.2p off the back of whispers it may be about to receive an approach.The whispers suggested its Danish rival ISS may be considering a move worth 110p a share, while possible private equity interest was also mentioned. Analysts weren't keen, however, noting that Rentokil has been the subject of similar mutterings before, although they pointed out its share price has more than halved since last year.It was yet another miserable session for Premier Foods, as the owner of Mr Kipling cakes dropped again in the wake of Friday's profit warning. After losing over 40 per cent then, the food producer dropped a further 12.2 per cent to 5.09p, with both Royal Bank of Scotland and JP Morgan Cazenove slashing their target prices.The latter cut its to a mere 1p, with the broker's analysts reducing their earnings forecasts by 40 per cent. "In our view, Premier Foods needs to make disposals to pay down its debt," they said, adding that a sale of Hartley's jam or Branston pickle could fetch ￡58m or ￡38m respectively.Like the wider market, the oil explorers were being given a helping hand by the price of the black stuff rising, while positive comments from HSBC also helped. The broker's analysts said the recent sell-off in the sector had left it "looking attractive", and upgraded its advice on both Enquest ? up 8.05p to 101.6p ? and Premier Oil ? up 11.9p to 372.4p ? to "overweight". The former, meanwhile, got a further helping hand by yet more bid chat. Petroceltic spurted up 10.56 per cent to 5.97p after the explorer's chief executive said it was in discussions over a possible sale of a stake in its Algerian operations, while the AIM-listed group also revealed promising flow test results from its field in the country.FTSE 100 risersOld Mutual 113.3p (up 5.5p, 5.1 per cent) Insurer's latest climb means it has now managed to add nearly 16 per cent in just four days.Weir Group 1,650p (up 73p, 4.63 per cent) Engineer rises as Credit Suisse reiterates its "outperform" recommendation.Burberry 1,261p (up 21p, 1.69 per cent) Upmarket fashion brand finishes in the blue ahead of its first-half update tomorrow.FTSE 100 fallersCompass 528.5p (down 6.5p, 1.21 per cent) Catering company retreats despite Royal Bank of Scotland keeping its "buy" rating.Imperial Tobacco 2,153p (down 24p, 1.1 per cent) Cigarette manufacturer hit by investors moving away from defensive stocks.National Grid 646p (down 3.5p, 0.54 per cent) Utility cut down by profit-taking after gaining 4 per cent over last three sessions.FTSE 250 risersHowden Joinery 113.4p (up 8.2p, 7.79 per cent) Kitchen supplier's share price has advanced 11 per cent in four days.Barratt Developments 90.8p (up 4.2p, 4.85 per cent) Housebuilder manages to extend its winning run to a fourth straight session.London Stock Exchange 851.5p (up 24p, 2.9 per cent) Climbs even as Goldman Sachs cuts its target price to 930p from 980p.FTSE 250 fallersSupergroup 713.5p (down 13.5p, 1.86 per cent) High street fashion retailer has its price target slashed by Espirito Santo to 635p from 925p.JD Sports 835.5p (down 12.5p, 1.47 per cent) Clothing chain pegged back after a large rise on Friday.SDL 645.5p (down 3.5p, 0.55 per cent) Investors choose to bank profits as software group falls for first time in four days.?After watching the mid-tier miner's shares drop nearly 15 per cent in early trading, bosses rushed out a statement saying reports from Egypt claiming the group had breached its concession agreement were wrong. They also attempted to pacify the market by announcing that its Sukari mine in the country was operating as normal.However the damage was done, and despite Centamin's efforts it closed 6.95p worse off at 66.5p. The group has suffered a string of problems in the country recently, including labour disputes, issues with fuel subsidies and a shortage of explosives. Egypt's political turmoil has, of course, not helped, and yesterday's fall was also being linked to the growing tensions between its military and the new president, Mohammed Mursi.Having finished last week on a downer, the FTSE 100 continued to move lower, sliding 35.3 points to 5,627.33. The latest gathering of eurozone finance bigwigs failed to calm fears as Spanish and Italian bond yields shot up.After reports over the weekend claimed big-wigs at Barclays were considering a break-up of the bank as the Libor scandal rumbles on, Shore Capital's Gary Greenwood warned the "costs of splitting the business in two would be significant and the process would be complicated". He also added that the chances of its investment bank getting snapped up by a US rival were "unlikely" because of regulation changes, as Barclays dipped 1.35p to 163.4p. BAE Systems was among the blue-chip stocks on the leaderboard ? the arms dealer was fired up 4p to 296.9p in the wake of reports it is likely to win a ￡7.1bn jet contract with the US government. Xstrata was pushed back 18.4p to 815.6p following talk it could give shareholder Qatar until September to sort out its issues with Glencore (1.6p lower at 308.75p) over the commodity trader's proposed merger with the digger.The miners were generally weaker thanks to figures showing inflation in China dropping to a 29-month low amid falling demand. Of course, this also hit Burberry, which was pegged back 34p to 1,255p ahead of tomorrow's trading update from the luxury retailer.First up, however, will be Marks & Spencer's first-quarter statement today. The department store is expected to announce its worst three months of trading for three years, but despite this it bounced up 3p to 321p yesterday. Still, according to figures from Markit Securities Finance, M&S remains one of the most popular stocks for short sellers.Down on the FTSE 250, Avocet Mining was finally celebrating an up day. Having shed nearly 60 per cent of its share price since slashing its production target at the end of June, the gold producer powered ahead 9.75p to 72.75p, although this barely managed to make a dent in its recent losses. There are some people who believe that the company's fall could leave it vulnerable to an approach ? Nomura's Tyler Broda last week claimed Avocet's appeal as a potential bid target would help the stock.Strewth. News from Down Under knocked Kenmare Resources 3.95p lower to 34.24p after its Australian rival Iluka issued a profits warning which the mineral sands producer blamed on a sharp drop in demand.Meanwhile, market gossips once again suggested Afren could be a possible target for US giant Exxon. However, dealers were unimpressed by the familiar speculation as the oil explorer finished 1.8p worse off at 104.8p.After talk earlier in the session that Mount Street Capital was working on a possible move for Invista, the private-equity firm confirmed it was mulling over making an approach for the real estate fund management group, majority owned by Lloyds (down 0.11p to 30.19p). Invista ? which was lifted 0.25p to 15p on Aim ? last month agreed to a bid worth 14.75p-a-share from Palmer Capital. This beat an earlier approach from Internos Real Estate priced at 12.5p a pop, and City sources claimed that one option for Mount Street Capital could be to team up with Internos.FTSE 100 Risers Meggitt 403.9p (up 10.4p, 2.64 per cent) Aircraft parts-maker ? which analysts from UBS last week said could become a potential bid target ? continues its recent strong run by topping the Footsie. Royal Bank of Scotland 205.7p (up 4.2p, 2.08 per cent) Bank helped to rise by analysts from Barclays keeping their "overweight" advice, although they do cut their target price to 270p from 340p.FTSE 100 Fallers ITV 72.85p (down 1.95p, 2.61 per cent) Broadcaster is among the day's worst fallers despite Citigroup's scribblers keeping the stock as one of their top stocks in the European media sector. Tullow Oil 1,437p (down 28p, 1.91 per cent) Energy explorer has now finished in the red for four consecutive trading sessions and lost 6 per cent of its share price since last week's trading statement.FTSE 250 Risers Balfour Beatty 311p (up 10.3p, 3.43 per cent) Construction company is one of the biggest risers on the mid-tier index as it prepares for the release today of its half-year trading update. Debenhams 87.75p (up 1.25p, 1.45 per cent) Department store manages to climb to a new, two-and-a-half-year high, having added more than 5 per cent since its interim management statement last month.FTSE 250 Fallers New World Resources 317.1p (down 40.9p, 11.42 per cent) Czech miner knocked back by Bank of America Merrill Lynch deciding to downgrade the company's rating to "underperform". Aquarius Platinum 41.59p (down 4.52p, 9.8 per cent) Platinum producer retreats as South African union says it is ready to go to court to force the group to reopen its Everest mine.?London's main index finished up 10 points at 5483.81 on some seriously dreary volumes."A waiting game until the Greek elections are over", said one trader. "We're in limbo, no one wants to be the wrong side of this once we have a result," said another. "The market is dead.""There simply is no secondary market," said a City old timer eyeing his revenue stream. That's an exaggeration, but not much of one.The move by CVC to delay its flotation of Formula One suggests there isn't much of a primary market either. Hand-sitting, with the odd dabble out of boredom, is still the favoured strategy until there's some clarity out there.Markus Huber at ETX Capital offers this as context. "Worries about the outcome of Greek elections on Sunday are being counterbalanced by optimism that several major central banks around the world will soon intervene into the markets, either by lowering rates or buying bonds," he said.The pointy heads at Barclays were a bit more downbeat, noting: "We believe the risks from Europe will remain a key market driver for the foreseeable future.Greek elections over the weekend are too close to call, and the potential for a negative risk event remains considerable. A weaker economic picture, limited policy intervention and elevated uncertainty mean that the pressure on risky assets remains."Even some companies that appear to be doing well are seeing their stock shunned. Sainsbury's yesterday reported sales up 3.6% in the 12 weeks to 9 June, but the shares were still hammered nearly 3 per cent, down 7.6p at 282p.Clive Black at Shore Capital said: "The UK food retailing sector is understandably out of favour at present, reflecting the tough, consumer economy manifested in falling volumes and compressed margins. Sainsbury is girding its loins for whatever a self-improving Tesco UK can throw at it by way of competitive pressure."The eurozone markets were also drifting. Michael Hewson at CMC Markets said: "Fragmented is an apt description of what European markets have been today, as equities chopped between positive and negative territory throughout the day. US economic data didn't provide much of a catalyst either way. Among sthe bright spots has been the Spanish IBEX, largely because its largest company by market cap, Inditex, owner of the Zara clothes chain, posted much better than expected profits for Q1.A UBS upgrade for insurer Resolution helped financial stocks in general. Jupiter ticked up 5.8p to 206.7p, while Royal Bank of Scotland moved smartly up 3.9p to 225.9p before profit takers took advantage, forcing it down 0.4p at 221.6p on the day.Resolution was the best riser early doors, dragging the Prudential and Legal & General with it, but later had to be content with a still decent rise of 2.3p to 197.6p. Engineer IMI had a rough day after Swedish manufacturing group SKF warned of a second-quarter slowdown which hit shares in companies throughout the industrials sector. It fell 25p to 844.5p. Also heading down were WPP and Burberry, two companies that have recently awarded their chief executives with fabulous pay packages on the basis of how much they have done for shareholders. Those shareholders were a bit worse off yesterday, with WPP down 8.62p at 759.38 and Burberry out of fashion down 29p to 1341p.Over in America, JP Morgan boss Jamie Dimon was insisting that there was good intent in the "London Whale" trades that lost the bank $2bn (￡1.28bn) and counting. At least half of the City knows exactly what he means.?Collins Stewart said the main European power generators were facing threats from political interference and from the fact that "EU power plants are nearing the end of their natural life cycles, given that the last major investment boom in much of the EU" was in the 1970s and 1980s.These challenges are leading to uncertainty and higher investment needs "just as the investment climate is deteriorating". International Power, however, has "limited exposure to the EU woes", it said."It has exposure to fast growing energy markets in North America, Latin America and META [Middle East, Turkey and Africa], where it enjoys a significant market presence," Collins Stewart analyst Harold Hutchinson explained, helping the stock firm up by 6.4p to 338.5p.He also pointed out that the company's relationship with GDF Suez, which is the biggest shareholder following a deal earlier this year, meant that it was backed by a strong balance sheet. "The influence of GDF Suez helps support an investment grade rating for International Power," Mr Hutchinson added.The power group's rise came against the backdrop of a general shift in sentiment across the market. Progress in Europe, with Greece officially welcoming a new Prime Minister and political moves in Italy to push through much-needed economic reforms, helped bring the bulls out of hiding and the FTSE 100 rallied by 1.85 per cent or 100.56 points to 5,545.38p. The FTSE 250 added 291.86 points to end the week at 10,389.3.Nervousness was still evident, though, with volumes remaining low. "Traders remain cautious and are holding back [from] committing funds until further confirmation of sovereign debt problems being resolved," Manoj Ladwa, senior trader at ETX Capital, said.The higher appetite for risk, however fragile, underpinned strength around financial sector stocks. The fund manager Schroders fared the best, taking the FTSE 100 crown with a rise of 6.8 per cent or 89p to 1,393p after Deutsche Bank abandoned its "sell" recommendation. The broker said the "tougher environment for fund flows and revenues has now been priced in" and upgraded the stock to "hold".In the banking sector, Royal Bank of Scotland stood out, gaining 6.4 per cent or 1.35p to 22.46p, while Barclays rose by nearly 8.9p to 178.9p after announcing that its private equity business was being bought out by the division's management. Lloyds was around 6.1 per cent or 1.665p better off at 28.835p and Standard Chartered gained 12p to 1,402p.HSBC, which has been lower in recent days after publishing its third quarter results, also managed to rise by 6.35p to 503.3p despite some bearish comment from Evolution Securities, whose banks analyst, Ian Gordon, told clients that "there is absolutely no excuse for owning the shares". "[HSBC] enjoys a premium rating, yet its outlook for return on equity is not materially superior to a UK domestic bank," he said, repeating his "sell" recommendation.In the mining sector, steady commodity markets helped the copper producers Antofagasta, which was up 39p at 1,198p, and Kazakhmys, which was up 24p at 931.5p. The rise came as copper prices stabilised after falling on concerns about the debt crisis earlier in the week. "Over the past few weeks, industrial metals have been receiving conflicting signals. On the one hand, industrial metals' specific fundamentals such as inventory dynamics have been positive," Credit Suisse said."On the other hand, the macroeconomic environment has been challenging, with metals falling victim to the fallout of the Europe sovereign debt crisis and the general economic slowdown."Further afield, Premier Foods continued the rally that started after it announced that its lenders had agreed to defer an upcoming covenant test as the food producer continued refinancing discussions.Yesterday, it rose by another 40.3 per cent or 1.85p to 6.44p, with traders pointing to short sellers rushing to cover downside bets in light of the positive news. Premier was also aided by announcements of share buying by management. The performance took the total gains since the deferral announcement on Monday to around 90 per cent.Fenner, the industrial conveyor belt manufacturer, was in demand, adding 5.1 per cent or 17.8p to 367.9p after Credit Suisse provided its shares with a shot in the arm. Responding to the company's recent full-year results, which showed rising profits, the broker reiterated its "outperform" stance and raised its target price for the stock to 415p from 395p.FTSE 100 RisersInternational Airlines 148.7p (up 7p, 4.9 per cent)British Airways-owner rises after setting a new long-term operating profit target; savings from BA-Iberia merger expected to be higher than previously thought.Anglo American 2,467p (up 83.5p, 3.5 per cent)Rises with the wider mining sector; Deutsche Bank analysts revise their target price for its shares to 3,890p, up from 3,790p previously.FTSE 100 FallersBurberry 1,377p (down 14p, 1 per cent)Luxury goods group retreats on a bout of profit-taking following recent gains; even after last night's pullback, its share price records a positive week.BG 1,366p (down 13.5p, 0.98 per cent)Oil and gas group, which has interests in Brazil, eases on the read-across from Galp Energia's sale of a stake in its Brazil business to Sinopec for less than expected.FTSE 250 RisersAfren 85.8p (up 10.95p, 14.6 per cent)Oil and gas companies with links to Kurdistan gain ground on reports that the US oil giant Exxon Mobil is set to enter the semi-autonomous region.Spectris 1,336p (up 107p, 8.7 per cent)Engineering group rallies after publishing a positive interim management statement; Altium Securities analysts reiterate their "buy" recommendation.FTSE 250 FallersBetfair 758p (down 5.5p, 0.7 per cent)Numis Securities switches its recommendation on the betting group's stock to "add" from "buy"; Davy lowers its view to "neutral" from "outperform".Halfords 341.1p (down 0.5p, 0.2 per cent)Credit Suisse reduces its target price for the retailer's shares to 400p from 465; HSBC, on the other hand, raises its target price to 365p from 350p.?In a newspaper interview, Mr Cheshire said Kingfisher was benefiting from a growing DIY trend in France, which is now its biggest operation both in terms of profits and sales. Despite the tough consumer spending environment in the UK, the group grew half-year profits by 24 per cent to ￡439m over the six months to 30 July.Indeed, Kingfisher was one of small number of risers on the blue-chip FTSE 100 index yesterday, which fell by 29.9p to 5,436.7, as fears about the eurozone debt crisis resurfaced. Its fellow retailers Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury's also scraped into positive territory. M&S was up by 2.5p to 334.9p ahead of its unveiling half-year results on 8 November. Sainsbury's, the UK's third-biggest grocer, also continued to make up ground, rising by 1.6p to 300.3p, although it has lost more than 20 per cent of its value in the year to date.Like its big rivals Tesco and Wm Morrison, Sainsbury's is battling its toughest trading environment for a generation. Investors have been piling back into Sainsbury's since its shares sank to 258p last month, partly in the belief that the company can continue to fight its rivals on price and grow its profits. However, Ocado, the FTSE 250 online grocer, had another day to forget as its shares fell by 2.4p to 87.6p, a wafer above an all-time low. Across the FTSE 100, the biggest winner yesterday was the oil giant BP, which surged 9.15p to 425.55p after a $4bn settlement with Anadarko Petroleum, the part-owner of the oil well involved in the Gulf of Mexico disaster last year. Anadarko has agreed to pay BP to settle all claims relating to the spill at the Macondo well.The second-biggest riser on the blue-chip index was Man Group, the hedge fund manager, as investors returned to the stock following a dreadful run. Man Group ? whose shares have tumbled more than 30 per cent in the past month ? rose by 3.2p to 160.8p. While Man Group would certainly benefit from more stability in Europe, hopes for a far-reaching rescue package for the region's sovereign debt crisis faded yesterday after comments from the German Finane Minister Wolfgang Schauble.The leading European indexes ? the FTSE 100, France's Cac 40 and Germany's Dax ? started buoyantly in positive territory but fell after Mr Schauble warned that this weekend's euro summit would not deliver a definitive solution.His comments appeared to knock sentiment surrounding Royal Bank of Scotland, which is 83 per cent-owned by British taxpayers. RBS, which has exposure to debt-crippled countries such as Greece through Greek bonds, fell by 2p to 24.1p. While it has less exposure to Europe than RBS, Lloyds Banking Group also had a day to forget and fell by 8p to 32.4p.Given that Lloyds is the most exposed of the big banks to the ailing British economy, dire forecasts on domestic economic output by the Ernst & Young Item Club are likely to have weighed on Lloyds far more. The well-respected forecaster said yesterday that the eurozone debt crisis had in effect brought the UK's economic activity to a standstill and predicted growth of just 0.9 per cent for 2011.Despite these headwinds, however, Barclays managed to edge up by 3p to 176.4p yesterday, reflecting the bank's broader international reach.Topping the leaderboard for the biggest losers yesterday was G4S, the British security company, which said it had agreed to acquire Denmark's ISS in a ￡5.2bn deal. G4S's shares fell by 62.4p to 219.9p, reflecting the dilutive impact of it partly funding the deal though a fully underwritten ￡2bn rights issue. On the FTSE 250, the biggest loser was the travel company Thomas Cook, which has been hit by the parlous state of consumer spending. On another day to forget, the tour operator tumbled by 2.7p to 46.6p, although the exact reasons for its being the biggest faller on the FTSE 250 were unclear.One company not reliant on the vagaries of the British consumers Amec, the international engineering business, whose shares rose by 15p to 875p last night after it announced that it had won a major new deal.BP and its partners, Shell, ConocoPhilips and Chevron, have awarded Amec a contract for the main platform design at an oilfield west of the Shetland Islands.FTSE 100 risersWhitbread 1627p 728p (up 12p, 0.7 per cent) The owner of the Costa Coffee and Premier Inn chains was in vogue ahead of its interim results today, which are expected to show strong growth.Compass Group 554p (up 1p, 0.8 per cent) Catering services giant has been one of the best-performing shares over the last year and continues to benefit from investors seeking safety in its global reach.FTSE 100 fallersSerco Group 499.5p (down 16.5p, 3.2 per cent) International services company was knocked by rival G4S's ￡5.2bn acquisition of ISS, as investors fretted over the growth prospects for the security sector.l Burberry 1262p (down 32p, 2.5 per cent) Despite growing revenues and profits, the luxury brand gave up recent gains as investors appeared to continue to worry about growth in China.FTSE 250 risersSports Direct 231.9p (up 1.9p, 0.8per cent) Investors pile into sportswear retailer ahead of its pre-close statement tomorrow. Its shares have soared in the past year, as it has grown profits and benefited from problems at rival JJB.Premier Foods 4.8p (up 0.3p, 6.3 per cent) Supermarket food supplier receives a boost from opportunistic purchasing, despite its poor trading and debt mountain.FTSE 250 fallersCarpetright 495.2p (down 19.8p, 3.8 per cent) Floor covering retailer was hit by further gloomy economic forecasts. The UK market leader has issued a string of profits warnings in the past year as households cut back on big-ticket spending.Rightmove 1248p (down 33p, 2.6 per cent) Property website pointed to growing north-south divide in the housing market as it faces increased competition from rivals.?The sale means French banking giant BNP Paribas will receive ?1.52bn, or ?28-a-share, for the stake ? a 20 per cent premium to Kleppiere's share price. The move gave a serious boost to sentiment around the sector, especially with regards to property in Continental Europe. Hammerson ? which recently announced it was focusing on its retail sites in France and the UK ? shot up 21.3p to 411.3p. Some in the Square Mile were also claiming the deal highlighted the wide discount between the group's share price and the value of its assets.Hammerson's blue-chip rival Capital Shopping Centres, meanwhile, advanced 9p to 338.4p. The operator of the Trafford Centre in Manchester last year managed to fend off a takeover approach from Simon Property, which still holds a 4 per cent stake.Overall, rising optimism ahead of last night's deadline for the Greek bond swap deal meant that by the bell the FTSE 100 had jumped 68.32 points to 5,859.73, almost regaining the level it was before the sell-off on Tuesday that saw it lose over 100 points. The rally was also fuelled by the return of talk suggesting China could be about to cut its reserve ratio again, which gave the heavyweight diggers a major push as Vedanta Resources shifted up 49p to 1,393p while Antofagasta closed 38p higher at 1,268p.With such a move likely to boost the country's economy, Burberry rose 71p to 1,508p after the upmarket retailer was helped earlier in the week by reports claiming the Chinese government may slash import duty on luxury goods.As well as Apple revealing its newest iPad late on Wednesday, Arm Holdings ? which pushed up 19.5p to 569p ? was also attracting buyers thanks to a positive note from Morgan Stanley. Analysts from the broker raised their rating to "overweight", noting that although historically the chip designer's forecasts have been considered too optimistic, they have actually turned out to be overly pessimistic.At the same time, fellow Apple supplier Imagination Technologies climbed 50.5p to 652p on the mid-tier index, an all-time high, after announcing that the strong momentum it enjoyed during the first-half had continued.Back on the Footsie, the bid spotlight returned to Shire as revived takeover speculation saw the drugs maker tick up 30p to 2,205. Pfizer was yet again suggested as a possible bidder following reports that Germany's Bayer may try and buy the US pharma giant's veterinary unit, leading to theories over what it could do with the cash from a disposal.Bid talk was also returning around Enquest, which spurted up 5p to 125.8p on the FTSE 250 as vague speculation claimed the North Sea explorer could become a takeover target. Shell (29p better off at 2,306.5p) was one of the names put forward as a potential bidder, although the idea was being widely played down.Elsewhere among the oil groups, Heritage Oil closed 9.2p stronger at 168.8p after the oil group started drilling at its Miran East prospect in the semi-autonomous Iraqi region of Kurdistan.It may not be everyone's cup of tea, but SuperGroup found itself in vogue yesterday. The fashion retailer powered up 46.5p to 568.5p after Oriel Securities' analysts claimed its share price did "not reflect the potential for the brand to grow rapidly over the next five years".Takeover hopes around Inmarsat took a knock after the chief financial officer of Eads said it was not interested in an approach. The European aerospace giant has been highlighted recently as a possible suitor for the satellite telecoms firm, which still managed to fly up 28.4p to 489.7p in the wake of a bullish "buy" note from Bank of America Merrill Lynch on Wednesday.Soft drinks maker Nichols was left rather flat on AIM despite beating analysts' forecasts by posting a full-year pre-tax profit of 18.1m. The group, whose fizzy pop products include Vimto and Sunkist, could only edge up 3.75p to 629.75p even though Shore Capital's Phil Carroll said he did "not discount the possibility of Nichols being an acquisition target in the medium-term".Bowleven, a favourite of the retail investors, soared up 12p ? or 14.12 per cent ? to 97p following the return of vague speculation it could in line for an approach. Tullow Oil (15p higher at 1,460p) was once more suggested by some as a possible suitor, although informed City voices were pouring cold water on the idea.?Among the familiar tales doing the rounds were whispers that Home Retail could be in line for a rush of takeover activity. The reheated mutterings included suggestions once again that the Asda owner and US supermarket behemoth Walmart may be mulling over making an approach ? possibly in the region of 180p a share ? for the retailer.At the same time, there were also claims that Home Retail's struggling Argos business may be attracting the attentions of private equity. The company has been under pressure over the performance of the chain, which saw an 8.5 per cent drop in sales for the second quarter, and its chief executive, Terry Duddy, was forced last week to rule out the closure of any stores.The group ended up finishing top of the mid-tier index by advancing 6.2p to 118.6p, although traders ? who were proposing its Homebase chain may have been boosted by the recent unseasonably hot weather ? were decidedly unimpressed by the rumours.Regurgitated bid chatter was also doing the rounds among the blue-chip oil companies, where once again the Chinese state-owned group Cnooc was being linked with a possible approach for Tullow Oil, although the explorer still eased back 9p to 1,300p.Similarly, BG Group crept down 7.5p to 1,234p despite persistent takeover rumours; the energy company was said last week to be a possible target for a Chinese aggressor.Overall, the FTSE 100 shrugged off the news that the UK's manufacturing sector managed to grow in September for the first time in three months by retreating 52.98 points to 5,075.5, continuing a four-day slide in which it has shed over 4 per cent."The Greece story is boring the hell out of me," moaned one trader, but unluckily for him the country's woes were still dominating. Figures showing it is on track to miss its deficit targets are knocking indices across Europe, and the banks certainly took it badly as Royal Bank of Scotland slid 1.03p to 22.46p while Lloyds Banking Group moved back 1.41p to 33.46p.Elsewhere in the sector, Standard Chartered shifted down 57.5p to 1,229.5p after the Asia-focused group continued to be hit by fears over China. Concerns over the country's growth prospects were heightened by yet more disappointing economic data.This data also hurt Burberry, which has enjoyed a massive boost from an increase in demand for luxury goods from the country. The upmarket brand moved down 82p to 1,092p, continuing a slide that has seen it lose over a quarter of its share price in less than a fortnight.Some in the market expressed surprise at the extent to which investors were ignoring bullish comments from Goldman Sachs on the retailer after the heavyweight US broker argued that "luxury brands are scarce assets" and that Burberry was the most likely to become a bid target. While a number of their peers in the wider mining sector were also being driven back by concerns about China, the precious metal diggers were ahead. With gold getting a boost from its defensive appeal and from Morgan Stanley's Alain Gabriel increasing his forecast, Randgold Resources ticked up 230p to 6,520p to finish in pole position. Mr Gabriel was proving rather less helpful for the rest of the miners, however, reducing his expectations for the base metals as Kazakhmys jumped down 30p to 763p.Meanwhile, Vedanta Resources closed 8.27 per cent behind at 1,010p despite the explorer Cairn India ? part of which the miner is buying from Cairn Energy (15.7p worse off at 265p) ? striking gas off Sri Lanka.The mobile telecoms giant Vodafone climbed 2.3p to 168.55p after being picked by ING's Jeffery Vonk as the scribbler's top choice among its global rivals. The analyst said the company had "a unique combination of defensiveness and a well-balanced growth portfolio of assets", and started coverage with a "buy" rating. There was plenty of bid talk around the small-cap pub companies, although it was hardly prompting much celebration. Despite mutterings claiming private equity could be interested in an approach worth 20p a pop, mixed with optimism that the sun may have tempted drinkers out, Punch Taverns still lost more than 11 per cent, plummeting 1.25p to 10p.Meanwhile, Spirit failed to move from 35.5p after RBS said it did not expect the pubs company, which demerged from Punch earlier in the year, to receive an approach "in the shorter term", although the broker kept its "buy" advice.Elsewhere, the software group Patsystems lost nearly 38 per cent of its share price, plummeting 7.5p to 12.25p, in the wake of its admission that a number of deals had been delayed and that its performance for the year would therefore fail to match that of the previous 12 months.?Since reaching an all-time high last July of 1,600p, the group has failed to move above that. Last night, however, it closed close to the top of the Footsie after Credit Suisse upgraded its advice to "outperform" following a survey of 20 of the world's most upmarket department stores.Scribblers from the broker noted that, compared to last year's results, an increasing number of respondents believed the image of Burberry ? at one time more linked to football hooligans than fashionistas ? was now at least at the same level as brands such as Louis Vuitton or Chanel.At the same time, nearly half of those surveyed said they expected Burberry to perform better than its luxury rivals while all planned to either increase or keep steady the amount of space in their stores dedicated to its products. These findings, said the analysts, suggested "sustained, top-line outperformance" for the group, adding that it looked "healthier than ever". Burberry's response was to shoot up 68p to 1,392p, with the move coming amid the revival of speculation it could become a bid target. Credit Suisse's scribes believe its 100 per cent free float meant there was a "potential takeover risk", although traders, who have heard the idea many times, were unimpressed.Considering the boom in growth it is enjoying from China, Burberry will not have been harmed by the shock decision of the country's central bank to cut interest rates in an attempt to prop up growth.It meant the lack of activity from the Bank of England was forgotten as the heavyweight miners charged up on the news. Rio Tinto and Xstrata raced up 115.5p to 3,015p and 28.2p to 966.8p, helping the FTSE 100 rise 63.68 points to 5,447.79, although US Fed boss Ben Bernanke, playing down hopes of stimulus measures, dampened the mood late in the day.Having watched Glencore reach an all-time low of 334.35p last week, the trading giant's boss, Ivan Glasenberg, has decided to give it a push. The group revealed he has spent nearly ￡10m on almost 3 million shares, raising his stake to 15.8 per cent. Given a lock-up expired last month on employees' shares ? including some of Mr Glasenberg's ? traders were encouraged by the fact he was buying instead of selling. The chief executive had promised to spend a "substantial" proportion of the recent ￡70m dividend he received on shares.The vote of confidence helped lift Glencore 13.45p to 361.2p, while it was also helped by the news that Australian regulators have approved its takeover of Canadian grain giant Viterra.Tullow Oil spurted up 30p to 1,468p after revealing it had struck oil off the Ivory Coast, giving a boost to the explorer's hopes of finding black gold in other nearby prospects.Diageo slipped 4p to 1,577p as Liberum Capital's Pablo Zuanic suggested it may need a name change in order to achieve its goal of taking control of the world's biggest tequila brand, Jose Cuervo. "Sealing the deal may be as simple as buying shares back to pay [Cuervo owners the Beckmann family] and rechristening Diageo," said the analyst, who suggested "The Johnnie Cuervo Walker Co". On the FTSE 250, Kesa Electricals powered up 4.24p to 54.1p following promising sales data from the high street. Fund manager Schroders has raised its stake in the retailer, which will be relegated to the small-cap index at the end of next week, to more than 11 per cent.A rather busy session left Synergy Health 40.5p better off at 864.5p. As well as publishing its full-year results, the sterilising equipment supplier also announced a share placing and revealed it had struck a $25.1m (￡16.3m) deal to buy US rival SRI/Surgical Express.The widespread rally was accompanied by gossips reheating a number of familiar bid tales. Chip designer CSR (6.4p better off at 208p) and iron ore producer Ferrexpo (7.8p better off at 207p) were among those once again finding themselves the subject of takeover speculation, although dealers were playing it down.Down on Aim, Ithaca Energy shifted up 5.75p to 115p on the start of oil exports from its Athena field in the North Sea. The explorer remains more than a third lower than before its admission last week that takeover talks had ended without a deal being struck ? some, however, still hope it could receive a hostile approach.?Hopes that Inmarsat ? which was demoted from the Footsie last year ? might be snapped up have been around for a while now, and its boss, Andrew Sukawaty, helped stoke the rumour mill last September by admitting it was "natural" that private equity firm could be interested in investing.However, its share price has been on the slide in recent months, with the group hit last month by its partner LightSquared's plans to build a high-speed wireless network across the United States facing difficulties with regulators amid claims it interferes with GPS systems.Yesterday's reheated rumours ? which suggested a potential price for Inmarsat of 700p a share ? once again claimed a possible approach could come from private equity. US giant General Electric was another name in the frame, although City voices were rather sceptical over the idea while traders were treating the familiar talk with a large dose of salt.It is not the first company that has been boosted by the return of bid rumours this week. Takeover speculation was revived around Shire on Monday, and the blue-chip drugs maker was still advancing yesterday. It gained another 50p to 2,179p, with Goldman Sachs' analysts helping by keeping the drugs maker on their "conviction buy" list.The FTSE 100 edged down for the second straight day, finishing just 1.94 points lower at 5,890.26. Still, there was plenty of optimism doing the rounds that, despite the benchmark index having already added over 300 points this year alone, there was more upside ahead.Pointing out that last month was the strongest January for more than a decade, Citigroup said "recent improvements to the macro backdrop" meant it is "more confident the current rally can be sustained".Meanwhile, Morgan Stanley's Bruce Hamilton predicted "a further leg-up" for the markets and upgraded his recommendation on interdealer broker Tullet Prebon (up 7.9p to 322p) and fund manager Henderson (up 1.5p to 121p) to "overweight" as a result.Not everyone was so optimistic, however. Northland Capital's Zeg Choudhry said he feels that "even if we assume economic conditions improve, we are very close to a correction of between five and 10 per cent before we resume a rally as markets are pricing a lot of good news".The top-tier index was being weighed down by a warning from China that its industrial growth this quarter looks set to slow. With Burberry particularly susceptible to any bearish noises from one of its key markets, the luxury brand retreated 26p to 1,420p, while the heavyweight miners were also badly hit.Xstrata and Glencore dipped 61.5p to 1,200p and 17.5p to 443.25p as leading shareholders voiced their opposition to the merger after an all-share agreement was announced. Talk was also doing the rounds in the Square Mile that, because of the valuation difference between the two in the deal, a number of investors were trying to short the latter but were unable to thanks to a lack of available stock.Fears Capita may be about to lose out on yet another contract helped the outsourcer to finish in the red. The group has had a number of disappointments this year already, and Espirito Santo's David Brockton claimed that ? despite being the favourite ? the likelihood of being chosen by the army to take control of its recruitment activities is not as clear-cut as the market believes.The analyst also reduced his rating on the group to "sell", warning that it "will continue to attract greater competition, with the business insufficiently diversified by geography to offset this pressure", and Capita promptly responded by slipping 1.5p to 633p.Having climbed 50 per cent since December, Misys took a breather after Berenberg's Daud Khan said that it was now "richly valued" and downgraded his advice to "hold". The software firm was left 8.9p worse off at 326.1p on the FTSE 250 as the analyst added that merger talks with rival Temenos should be concluded "within a short timeframe", although there has been persistent chatter suggesting a rival bid could soon emerge.Down on AIM, Solo Oil was smacked back 23.33 per cent to 0.58p after the first drilling of the explorer's joint Tanzanian well with Aminex failed to strike oil or gas.Going in the opposite direction was Totally. The media group was in rude health following confirmation that it had won a NHS contract worth nearly ￡1.6m, jumping up 172 per cent to 1.7p.?But the popularity of precious-metal-seeking stocks isn't just a flash in the pan. Randgold emerged as the biggest riser on the benchmark index for the entire quarter, with Fresnillo the third-biggest gainer in the period.The biggest losers in the quarter were Eurasian Natural Resources Corporation (ENRC), yesterday down, 3.5p to 308.7p, and luxury goods group Burberry, off 6p at 1,001p.Traders in the City started the day feeling positive on hopes that eurozone debt problems could improve, with riskier stocks still on their shopping list. But by the finish, the index had fallen to its lowest closing level in more than three weeks as fears over the true extent of the eurozone debt crisis would not go away.But the mining sector helped keep the index from falling further as rumours that China, the world's biggest metals consumer, could issue further stimulus measures. Over the entire third quarter, the FTSE 100 was up 3.1 per cent but yesterday, despite the strong rise for miners, it lost 37.35 points to 5742.07 ? not clearing the key 5,800 mark at the end of the quarter. Investors are still waiting for Glenstrata, the $80bn (￡50bn) mining and commodity-trading mega-merger. Monday's deadline looms for the overdue Xstrata and Glencore merger, with reports that the pair remain at odds over key issues. Xstrata lost 2.1p to 957.5p and Glencore headed down 0.1p to 343.1p.The Office of Fair Trading has ordered a Competition Commission probe into the car insurance market as it thinks competition isn't working and customers' wallets are being hit. Among the watchdog's concerns are that if you are involved in a smash, your replacement car or the repairs could be costing more than the market rate. The planned float of car insurance site Direct Line by taxpayer-owned Royal Bank of Scotland had been valued at between ￡2.5bn and ￡3.5bn, but yesterday it announced a float at between ￡2.4bn and ￡2.9bn. The bank has had to sell the insurance business, which also includes the Churchill and Privilege brands, to meet European regulators' conditions after it was bailed out. RBS shares edged up 0.4p to 257p but news of the probe hit motor insurers Admiral, down 32p to 1,053p and morethan brand owner RSA Insurance, off 1.5p at 110.5p.Over on the midcaps, electrical retailer Dixons had a strong run. Dealers attributed its rise to approval of chief executive Sebastian James, who joined in the summer and hopes it will have a strong Christmas. Dixons, which sells everything from iPads to kettles, gained 0.38p to 19.78p.Massive tuition fees may put off some prospective university students but the student accommodation sector is still growing as an influx of overseas students builds. Traders reckon news that Chinese state-owned fund Gingko Tree Investment's proposed purchase of Barclay's 40 per cent stake in the University Partnership Programme (Britain's largest developer of student housing) will also be good news for rival Unite Group. Traders speculated that if overseas investor interest continues, Unite could even become a bid target. Its shares booked in a 6.9p rise to 263.6p.Shares in logistics business Wincanton continued their good run, driving up 3.25p to 56p after contract wins from B&Q and Sainsbury's. Traders speculated that there could soon be more good news.Mischievous traders speculated that another bidder could emerge for Sportingbet. The online gambling group, which is already in talks with bookmaker William Hill, rose 0.25p to 51.50p.AIM-listed Aortech International hasn't found a buyer and is no longer for sale. It is still trying to flog its polymer business but also needs to raise more money. Punters were not impressed and the shares plummeted 65p to 60p. G4S 265.7p (up 2p, 0.76 per cent) Security company boss Nick Buckles has survived the fallout from its Olympic fiasco but the scalps of its chief operating officer and managing director were claimed. Babcock International 927p (up 9p, 0.98 per cent) The engineering company will release a trading update to the market next week and analysts expect its core businesses of marine and defence to remain solid. Compass Group 683.5p (down 21p, 2.98 per cent) Compass Group continued its fall from the previous day after it admitted it will have to reduce its operations in southern Europe. Analysts at Natixis cut its rating to neutral from buy. Anglo American 1,817p (down 30.5p, 1.65 per cent) The mining giant continued to suffer at the hands of illegal strikers at its South African platinum mines. Ophir Energy 608p (up 17.5p, 2.96 per cent) The oil group said it will restart its Tanzanian drilling programme with its joint-venture partner BG Group. Centamin 92.5p (up 2.85p, 3.18 per cent) The mid-cap Egyptian gold miner joined its peers on the FTSE 100 as a top riser as investors piled into precious-metal mining stocks on hopes of further Chinese stimulus. London Stock Exchange 943p (down 82p, 8 per cent) Strict new rules from European regulators sent its shares tumbling. Electrocomponents 200.3p (down 19.4p, 8.83 per cent) The specialist electronic components and maintenance firm warned that half-year profits will slump by a third. The forecast was worse than expected, and sent it to the bottom of the mid-cap index yesterday.?Scribes at Barclays warn that Permira-owned Hugo Boss could be high-risk, while brands with lots of shops that sell leather goods and have a limited exposure to European shoppers will fare better. Barclays downgraded handbag brand Mulberry's price target from 1930p to 1600p and British success story Burberry from over to equal weight, reducing the target from 1950p to 1600p.Mulberry edged up 15p to 1345p while Burberry retreated 40p to 1315p.HSBC experts think that now Chinese consumers do more of their luxury shopping overseas, pressure will pile up on those with too many shops in the country. Some established brands in Asia may lose market share ? what HSBC scribblers call "first-mover disadvantage."Swiss-based Cartier-to-Mont Blanc owner Richemont will today update the market with its August trading figures. The pressure is on for the boss of Land Securities, the UK's largest property company. Rob Noel, chief executive for six months, has seen the stock downgraded by four analysts in two weeks. The retail-to-office property group lost 16p to 777.5p yesterday as scribes from UBS, JPMorgan Chase and Exane BNP Paribas downgraded the Real Estate Investment Trust (REIT) stock to neutral. Property doyen Mike Prew at analyst Jefferies last month cut his recommendation on the stock to hold from buy.British Land, the UK's second-largest property company, was also downgraded and its shares shed 14.5p to 527p.Unlike rival Hammerson, Land Securities and British Land have not narrowed their focus to one property sector, and remain property "generalists". Analysts reckon the real-estate sector is looking less attractive after its recent strong performance, and Mr Noel will have to pull something out of the bag to get them to change their view.A profitable exit for the UK taxpayer from Royal Bank of Scotland is an ever-more distant dream. Investec analyst and banking guru Ian Gordon has taken his scissors to the majority state-owned bank, downgrading the stock to hold from buy, and trimmed the share price target to 245p from 300p.Mr Gordon, who is largely bullish on banks, thinks RBS's recent 20 per cent four-week rally is a cause for concern. Its shares slid 5.8p to 220.7p.On a bad day for the FTSE 100, investors were jittery after Moody's cut its outlook on the European Union's credit rating to negative. The index slumped 86.4 points to 5672, losing the previous day's gains.With the deadline for the merger between commodities giant Glencore (down 3.05p to 385.1p) and Xstrata (off 29.7p at 917.5p) on Friday, the deal looked ever more unlikely.Software group Sage, a riser for the past two sessions following rumours of bidder interest re-emerging, fell back after a downgrade from Exane BNP Paribas. The shares edged back 3.2p to 300.3p.Midcap equipment-rental group Ashtead raised its profits guidance, and its shares jumped 33.4p to 315.9p. Seymour Pierce raised its price target for the stock to 350p from 320p, rating it a buy. The shares have already moved up more than 40 per cent in the past year. It was another bad day for financier Nat Rothschild's and Samin Tan's Bumi. The Indonesian coal miner has been hit by falling coal prices, a board bust-up and debt worries, and things appear to be getting worse as it fell another 15.2p to 288p.As actress Bette Davis' character said in All About Eve, "Fasten your seat belts. It's going to be a bumpy night." Well, it was for shareholders in Aim-listed Africa-focused Chariot Oil & Gas yesterday. When the shares plummeted yesterday, the company had to admit results from drilling the Kabeljou exploration well on the Nimrod prospect "are not yet known". It will update the market when it can. The shares closed down 21p at 100.25p.?With the latest reshuffle of the indexes to be based on last night's closing prices, it is on course to move down to the FTSE 250. The changes will be confirmed next week, although this is likely to be justa formality.It is the latest milestone in a dramatic fall from grace for Man, whose share price has plummeted more than 75 per cent since February 2011. Yesterday's climb of 2.6p to 75.5p was accompanied by the reheating of vague takeover speculation, prompting cynics to wonder whether it could be a final attempt to give it a boost ahead of the reshuffle. Bank of New York Mellon was once again being suggested as a possible bidder, with the familiar rumours mentioning a potential price of 100p a pop.There has been talk recently it could be vulnerable, with the UBS analyst Arnaud Giblat claiming earlier in the year that investors would be happy to accept an approach worth 150p a share.Dealers were not too impressed with the latest whispers, however, and some linked the move to optimism over its cost-cutting programme as well as the performance of its flagship AHL fund, whose woes have been blamed for Man's slump.Its place on the benchmark index should be taken by Babcock International. The defence services group, which slipped 9.5p to 840.5p, has seen its share price add not far off 50 per cent since August with government penny-pinching giving it a boost.Those set to drop out of the mid-tier index include SuperGroup (3.2p lower at 301p). A profits warning in April, partly blamed on getting its sums wrong, saw the retailer ? which has been nicknamed SuperDroop by City wags ? lose nearly 40 per cent in just one trading session.Also among those moving lower should be the electronics chain Kesa (0.24p worse off at 48.76p) and oil rig manufacturer Lamprell (1.3p worse off at 99.5p), while Bank of Georgia is one of the companies becoming a mid-cap stock. The country's largest bank, which was steady at 1,025p, gained a premium listing in February.May might have been the FTSE 100's worst month since February 2009, but June started with the top-tier index reaching a new six-month low by crashing down 60.67 points to 5,260.19. While manufacturing data was poor, the real sell-off came after US non-farm employment figures showed that just 69,000 jobs were added last month ? well short of the 150,000 expected. Meanwhile, traders ? who noted vague rumours claiming that co-ordinated monetary easing by the G20 may be imminent ? were in a hurry to cut risk ahead of the extra long weekend.If any more bad news was needed then there was also weak PMI data from China. With the country's appetite for upmarket goods a major driver behind the luxury sector, the upmarket brand Burberry ? which recently announced Gabriella Wilde and Roo Panes as the faces of its new campaign ? dipped 59p to 1,308p.Fears over the television advertising market continued to hit ITV. The broadcaster was driven back 3.45p to 69.45p after Investec's Steve Liechti recommended selling, saying the uncertain macro environment was offsetting any boost from Euro 2012 and the Olympics.With the price of gold jumping as investors searched for some security, the yellow metal digger Randgold Resources charged up 360p to 5,555p. Mid-tier peers Petropavlovsk and African Barrick Gold were lifted 21.1p to 388.1p and 19.9p to 349.4p.Meanwhile the surprise announcement of plans to sell its stake in Anglo-Russian group TNK-BP saw BP advance 7.1p to 402p.On the FTSE 250, Aquarius Platinum was knocked back 8.55p to 64.8p ? a seven- year low ? following suggestions earlier in the week from Goldman Sachs that the miner could call a halt to its dividend.Bwin.Party ticked up 1.1p to 121.1p after revealing it had been granted an online gaming licence by Spain. William Hill (4.9p lower at 265.6p) and 888 (1.25p lower at 67.75p) were also among those getting the green light.WANDisco was flying the flag for Yorkshire as it became the county's first London IPO since 2010. The software firm received a good reaction, moving up 19p to 199p on AIM from a float price of 180p.?Morrisons had hoped its march on the South and new stores with "fresh formats" could help it to compete with rivals. But Barclays scribes are less than impressed, and cut their target price on the stock to 295p, from 320p, ahead of its half-year results on Thursday. Other analysts chatter that there could be further downgrades after the interims next week. Morrisons, down 1p at 280p, has been losing market share. Nielsen data on British food retailers for the month to 18 August revealed it has underperformed the sector with 1.5 per cent sales growth, behind rivals. Heavy discounting in the shape of vouchers at other chains has hit the Yorkshire company hard.The chief executive, Dalton Philips, has been trying to work his magic, with new formats and ideas, and even bought a children's website, Kiddicare. But Barclays' James Anstead said: "Recently unveiled initiatives have not had the effect one might have hoped for, and the turning point is not immediately obvious. But we think that management will emphasise the many ongoing initiatives ? and we expect consensus estimates to be trimmed rather than slashed."The FTSE 100, which has been down for most of the week, picked up 8 points and closed at 5711.5. The small gains made on the index during the morning were mostly lost during afternoon trade, when the speech from the US Fed chairman, Ben Bernanke, delivered what analysts had expected. Mr Bernanke admitted he is open to the possibility of further stimulus to promote growth, but he would not commit to action. News from France helped the luxury Brit brand Burberry to sashay up 25p to 1353p on the back of a stonking performance from its more upmarket rival Hermes in Asia. After heavy falls in mining stocks earlier in the week, the sector began a recovery of sorts and the Glenstrata saga rolled on. The proposed merger of the commodities trader Glencore and miner Xstrata, which looks all but dead, won new opposition when the activist investor Knight Vinke became the first to call for a shake-up of the Xstrata board if a deal did not proceed. The fund, which owns 0.5 per cent of Xstrata (up 51.2p to 952.2p), reiterated its opposition to the current deal on the table. The statement came after 12 per cent shareholder Qatar Holdings confirmed it will vote against the merger next week. Glencore topped the leaderboard and advanced 27.6p to 385.1p, with some analysts still keen on the stocks even if the inevitable happens and the deal gets buried.Moving to the mid caps, the miner New World Resources perked up after reaching a new year low the previous day. The stock edged up 2p to 270.9p, accompanied by a rumour that it was in talks to buy a coal-burning plant called Detmarovice from the Czech electricity company CEZ. CEZ is selling assets to appease regulators. Meanwhile Aim-listed Beowulf Mining (not to be confused with California's thrash metal band Beowulf) revealed that its losses widened in the six months to July to ￡386,955. But good news of discoveries of some high-grade iron at Kallak North in Sweden sent its shares up 0.25p to 9.75p.Cape's chairman, Tim Eggar, a former Energy minister, piled into his own company and snapped up another 12,000 shares at 229p. The energy services company was up for the second day running, following its half-year results on Thursday. The shares spurted up another 12.4p to 242.4p. The former Yell Group, now strangely called Hibu, got a waiver on debt conditions from its lenders as part of its ongoing restructuring and its shares moved up just 0.2p to 1.2p.The serviced office group Regus has been on a good run since it posted a 133 per cent pre-tax profits rise on Wednesday. Its shares charged up 6.6p to 104.1p yesterday.The small-cap back-office outsourcing firm XChanging was also in favour. It has risen steadily since the beginning of the month, when it posted impressive first half results, and it gained another 5p to 115p yesterday.?The mid-tier lender, which specialises in mortgages for residential landlords, put a halt to new loans in February 2008 as the securitisation market ground to a halt. It restarted last year, and since then the market has been waiting for it to once again launch mortgage-backed securities for funding. Although the amount is not large compared with previous deals Paragon has done, City scribblers still welcomed the news, which saw the stock go up by 23.7p to 179.9p. "This is the catalyst we had identified for the stock to start re-rating," said analysts at JPMorgan Cazenove, while Stuart Duncan at Peel Hunt claimed that it meant Paragon's "business model is complete again".Overall, a choppy session ended with the FTSE 100 62.53 points higher at 5,484.1, following a terrible three-day run in which it dropped nearly 300 points. Despite the top-tier index moving into the red early on, support came from Wall Street where stocks were rallying after strong jobs data.Although, not surprisingly, the Fed failed to announce a new round of quantitative easing, hopes that it could be getting nearer helped commodity prices. As a result, Eurasian Natural Resources and Antofagasta bounced up 35p to 657p and by 60p to 1,174p respectively, while the gold-miner Fresnillo took pole position as it advanced 127p to 1,783p.After reviving bid rumours on Tuesday surrounding the Nurofen-maker Reckitt Benckiser, which eased back 15p to 3,240p yesterday, the gossips turned their attentions once again to Burberry. Often the subject of speculation, the latest vague whispers suggested that the luxury brand could be about to receive an approach from an unnamed Chinese company.The mutterings were played down by traders, however, who instead were welcoming forecast-beating figures from the German fashion house Hugo Boss. With comments from Citigroup that consumer spending would either focus on bargain or luxury products also helping, Burberry ended up climbing 72p to 1,345p.Rumours of a more continental flavour were also doing the rounds, as mutterings claimed Volkswagen may be interested in increasing its 56 per cent stake in fellow German automotive giant Man. Meanwhile, back in the UK, the truck-maker's namesake Man Group managed to rise before its interim results today, despite recent concerns about what they will show. The world's largest listed hedge fund climbed 5.3p to 141.3p as it moved off its lowest level for more than eight years.Lloyds was left clutching the blue-chip index's wooden spoon. Its shares fell back by 1.36p to 29.21p after it announced that its Portuguese chief executive Antonio Horta Osorio, was taking sick leave. Also in the red were a number of stocks losing their payout attraction, with GlaxoSmithKline (down 23p to 1,355.5p) and Ashmore (down 5.5p to 325.9p) among those trading ex-dividend.There is rarely much of a read-across between G4S and Prudential, but that did not stop Citi making the connection yesterday. After G4S, the security services giant, scrapped its ￡5.2bn acquisition of Denmark's ISS, Citi tried to reassure investors by highlighting the recovery of Prudential's share price following its failed takeover of AIA last year."We continue to view G4S as a defensive structural growth asset," said Citi analysts. With both Exane BNP Paribas and Credit Suisse upgrading their ratings, shares in G4S were driven up by 8p to 253.2p.Down on the FTSE 250, the recent bearish rumours of a profits warning from Logica proved to be well-founded as the IT outsourcer cut full-year expectations for both operating margins and growth. It blamed poor trading in the Benelux region, where its revenues have fallen 3 per cent in the the part three quarters. Its shares duly slumped by 6.5p to 83p.As the two-day London Conference on Cyberspace, which saw such luminaries as William Hague and Wikipedia founder Jimmy Wales meet to discuss cyber-crime, came to an end, Ultra Electronics was lifted 16p to 1,608p. Goldman Sachs used the opportunity to highlight the defence company's position on its "conviction buy" list, saying cyber-security was a "major market opportunity" and would contribute about a fifth of Ultra's sales by next year.Shares in the oil and gas explorer Serica Energy powered up by 1.75p, or 9.72 per cent, to 19.75p on the Alternative Investment Market after the company said it was in "advanced discussions" about a new licence in Namibia.?But not everyone ended in the black; Glencore, for instance, was 15.85p worse off at 412.65p, while Xstrata, which is part-owned by Glencore, lost 13.7p to 998.3p. The mixed fortunes came despite some positive commentary from one of Wall Street's best-known commodity bulls, with Goldman Sachs saying that it still expected prices to rise over the next year. "Notwithstanding the continuing European crisis, we maintain our view that global growth will provide enough support to demand to drive key commodity prices higher over the next 12 months," Goldman analysts said. "Confidence in this view has been reinforced by the recent shift in policy in China towards a looser stance, which will likely help support economic growth and, in turn, commodity demand." Overall, investors endured a volatile session. The morning saw further falls on the FTSE 100, with the European crisis keeping the bulls at bay. But markets cheered up after the release of better-than-expected US data, with reassurance on the world's largest economy helping the benchmark to close broadly flat at 5,517.44, down 1.6 points. The data, which showed that retail sales had climbed in October, did little for the FTSE 250, however, with the mid-caps falling back by 87.65 points to 10,260.11.Burberry took the FTSE 100 wooden spoon, shedding 74p to 1,347p amid profit-taking in the wake of the luxury retailer's half-yearly results; although the figures were positive, the stock has climbed strongly in recent days. "Having been hit in mid-September by market concerns over global growth, the shares have rallied from 1,092p since the end of September after repeated luxury companies reassured on the underlying market strength," Seymour Pierce analyst Kate Calvert pointed out. Elsewhere, Imperial Tobacco was 34p better off at 2,331p ? but with gains of 1.5 per cent, it failed to overtake rival British American Tobacco, up 49.5p at 2,943p, after Goldman turned its attention to the sector. The broker said Imperial was likely to lag behind BAT in terms of growth, as it was "structurally less well-positioned", with 67 per cent of its earnings before interest and tax generated in the EU. "It will be difficult... for the group to deliver comparable earnings growth to BAT," Goldman analysts warned. The broker also struck a cautious note on the Imperial valuation, lowering the stock to "sell" while pushing BAT as a "buy". "While we remain positive on tobacco owing to its cash-generative and stable growth profile, Imperial Tobacco's valuation appears stretched following below-average earnings growth in 2011," Goldman explained.Further afield, the London Stock Exchange was out of favour after analysts expressed worries about its Italian clearing-house business. The stock was nearly 4 per cent or 33.5p behind at 830p after Goldman warned on the risks facing the division, which makes up for around 15 per cent of the LSE's revenues, according to the broker. Although the income generated by the business has "grown fourfold in only 15 months", Goldman said the recent rise in spreads on Italian credit default swaps had "led to the imposition of collateral haircuts" at the clearing house. This, it explained, has pushed up the cost of Italian repos, or repurchase agreements, and made the ECB's facility comparatively more competitive. Eyeing this, the broker lowered its estimates for the group and, as a result, switched its stance on LSE's shares to "sell". Premier Foods remained volatile. First, there was last week's rally, with short covering driving strong gains after the company announced an agreement to defer a forthcoming covenant test. Then, on Monday, there was the intra-day slump as the impact of short covering wore off (and UBS turned bearish). And yesterday, the food producer's share price retreated by another 15 per cent or 0.86p to 4.88p, with part of the reversal being attributed to news that Premier had had to recall a batch of its Loyd Grossman korma curry sauce after one jar was found to be contaminated with bacteria that can cause botulism poisoning.Shore Capital said it hoped the problem, which first emerged at the weekend, could be contained. "Our caution on Premier Foods' stock reflects concerns about the group's balance sheet going back many years, concerns that predominate to this day," the broker said, repeating its "sell" view. "We hope that this outbreak is contained and nothing more than a short storm in a teacup; however, we do need to make sure that it remains no more."?Some of those chosen were hardly a surprise, with Argos-ownerHome Retail and online grocer Ocado ? both of whom have few friendsin the Square Mile ? making the cut. They were pegged back 5.55p to86.65p and 2.05p to 56p, while plumbing giant Wolseley was 39plower at 2,080p after also being picked out.Perhaps more surprising was Shire's presence. The pharma groupwas the top-performing blue-chip stock in 2011, but Panmure'sanalyst Savvas Neophytou claimed it was now overvalued, although itstill firmed up 20p to 2,170p.Ironically, one stock investors would have benefited from givinga miss recently is Panmure itself. With the broking sector havingbeen hit by the volatility of the markets, the firm has lost overtwo-thirds of its share price during the past 12 months. Yesterday,however, it was on the up, shifting 0.38p higher to 0.62p in thewake of reports over the weekend claiming it could be a target forrival Cenkos Securities.Despite a bright start, the FTSE 100 ended at its lowest levelfor the year so far, retreating 37.42 points to 5,612.26.With talk Greek debt holders may have to take a bigger haircutthan previously thought, traders were unimpressed by yet anothermeeting between Angela Merkel and Nicolas Sarkozy on the eurozonecrisis, instead preferring to focus on German bonds being sold at anegative yield."Merkozy" did continue to talk up the so-called "Tobin" tax onfinancial transactions, and despite David Cameron's reiterating hisopposition over the weekend, the banks were among the main losers.Lloyds slipped back 0.92p to 26.19p on boss Antonio Horta-Osorio'sfirst day back from sick leave, while Royal Bank of Scotlandslumped 0.44p to 20.07p.Power firm Essar Energy (down 8.7p to 162p ? a new all-time low)and hedge fund Man Group (down 5.4p to 107.35p) took the bottom twopositions, as both extended their recent terrible runs.Elsewhere, GlaxoSmithKline declined 62p to 1,435p afterdisappointing data from its lung drug Relovair, although it willstill attempt to get approval later in the year.Rival AstraZeneca was feeling a little foolish after admittingit had accidentally sent out confidential data to analysts lastweek in an email.The drugs giant quickly moved to limit the damage, claiming thatthe numbers were "out-of-date planning information" and reiteratingboth its guidance for 2011 and outlook, although it still tumbled33.5p to 3,009p.At the other end, Burberry was in fashion again, bumping up 28pto 1,278p as market gossips returned once more to the well-wornidea it could attract a suitor, although dealers were unimpressedby the vague speculation.The Kurdistan oil explorers were still in focus, with HeritageOil falling 11.1p to 182.4p on the FTSE 250. RBC analyst Al Stantondowngraded his rating to "underperform", blaming his caution overthe semi-autonomous region of Iraq on the worsening unrest in thecountry.Gulf Keystone Petroleum, however, ticked up 8.6 per cent to 221pon AIM following an update on its search for oil as vague takeoverrumours around the retail punters' favourite refused to die.Back on the main market, Tesco was 0.45p weaker at 390.43p aheadof its trading statement on Thursday as Morrisons (up 0.2p to311.5p) failed to get the supermarkets' reporting season off to agood start. Sainsbury's is set to update the market on itsperformance over Christmas tomorrow, and it advanced 1.2p to300p.JD Sports was in pole position on the mid-tier index afterrising 40p to 700p. The sportwear chain announced it was in"advanced discussions" over buying a number of assets from troubledBlacks, although Seymour Pierce was not keen, warning itsmanagement "may be... overstretching themselves".AGI Therapeutics was looking rather healthy down on AIM, rising60 per cent to 7.2p after the pharma firm announced it had agreedto be bought by Aravis for ?6.6m (￡5.4m). Still, long-time punterswill hardly be ecstatic considering AGI was worth ?85m when itfloated in 2006.Espirito Santo was urging caution over reports suggesting Sonyand Microsoft could soon reveal their next game consoles, sayingthat although such news would give a boost to retailer Game ? whichwas 0.15p worse off at 6.75p ? it was "too early to get excitedyet".FTSE 100 Risers* National Grid 624p (up 14.5p, 2.38 per cent) After threestraight sessions on the slide, power supplier ends up in poleposition on the blue-chip index as its employees buy nearly 46,000shares.* InterContinental Hotels 1,195p (up 21p, 1.79 per cent)Deutsche Bank helps hotel operator by raising its recommendation to"buy" from "hold" on hopes a special dividend could be announcednext month.FTSE 100 Fallers* Schroders 1,256p (down 39p, 3.04 per cent) Asset managerretreats in the wake of Singer Capital Markets cutting its pricetarget to 1,450p from 1,550p, although broker keeps its "buy"advice.* Antofagasta 1,234p (down 36p, 2.83 per cent) Chilean minerfinishes as one of the Footsie's worst performers after Citigroupcuts its recommendation to "sell" and predicts copper volume growthwill slow.FTSE 250 Risers* Persimmon 506.5p (up 25.5p, 5.3 per cent) Housebuilder jumpsin the wake of a bullish statement in which it predicts underlyingfull-year pretax profit will have increased by 50 per cent.* EnQuest 106.8p (up 2.8p, 2.69 per cent) North Sea oil explorerrises on news that it has bought 20 per cent stake in Krakendiscovery off the Shetland Islands for a sum that could rise to$90m (￡58.3m).FTSE 250 Fallers* Jupiter Fund Management 188.5p (down 7.5p, 3.83 per cent)Asset manager finishes in the red for the fourth consecutivesession, over which time its share price has shed more than 14 percent.* Mitchells & Butlers 245p (down 4.8p, 1.92 per cent)Investors choose to bank profits in pubs company in the wake of itbeing helped last week by analysts returning to the idea of apotential new bid from Joe Lewis.?Morgan Stanley was certainly not in a charitable mood, as analysts from the broker downgraded Icap's rating to "equal weight". Predicting that its volumes next year would continue to be under pressure as "subdued investor risk appetite persists", they claimed consensus earnings forecasts in the Square Mile for 2013 faced "negative revision risk" while also highlighting "significant uncertainties" around upcoming regulatory announcements.The group was pegged back 16.1p to 350.4p in response, with the move coming a day after it revealed a sharp drop in its volumes. Icap announced that its electronic volumes over November had suffered a 7 per cent year-on-year fall to $770.7bn, which led Numis Securities' James Hamilton to say the chances of its second-half profits beating the first six months of the year was "very unlikely" and that the group's share price looked "far from compellingly cheap".Although the FTSE 100 moved above 5,600 points during the first hour of trading following reports claiming that eurozone leaders could introduce two separate bailout funds, it ended up closing 21.81 points behind at 5,546.91.Signs of discord ahead of today's eurozone summit did the damage, prompting IG Index's Yusuf Heusen to say that "trying to get eurozone politicians to agree is like herding cats ? tricky, frustrating and a very lengthy process". However, it was only the benchmark index's second losing day in nine sessions, over which time it has managed to jump up 8 per cent.The clear winner was Randgold Resources, which ? appropriately enough ? closed in the gold medal position after climbing 235p to 6,945p. One fan was Guardian Stockbrokers' Atif Latif, who said the digger represented "good value long term" partly because of his belief that the price of gold could reach $1,900 an ounce during 2012 thanks to demand from China.Burberry was also on the rise, lifted 10p to 1,277p following supportive comments from Liberum Capital. In their first look at the luxury brand, the broker's analysts gave it a "buy" recommendation and predicted it would enjoy an acceleration in both sales and margins.Meanwhile, Inmarsat (down 4p to 423.1p), Investec (down 4.8p to 358.5p) and Lonmin (up 3p to 1,053p) were confirmed after the end of trading as the three stocks being relegated from theblue-chip index in the latest indices reshuffle. Russia's Evraz and Polymetal, along with Irish building materials group CRH, will take their places when the substitutions are made at the end ofnext week.A vote of confidence from its new chief executive pushed Cable & Wireless Worldwide up 0.97p to 17.82p on the FTSE 250. Gavin Darby, the former Vodafone executive who started his new role little more than a week ago, has spent nearly ￡340,000 on the troubled telecoms company's shares.It was the opposite for AZ Electronics Materials, which slipped back 16.3p to 236p after the chemical group's former private equity owners, Vestar Capital Partners and Carlyle Group, both reduced their stake by selling 20m shares each.Meanwhile, Kesa Electricals slumped 9.24 per cent to 74.15p in the wake of the retailer revealing yet more bad news for the high street. It admitted it had seen no improvement in trading trends yet in the run-up to Christmas, while sales at its Comet chain ? which is being sold to the private investment firm OpCapita ? had plummeted more than 15 per cent over the second quarter.The recent flurry of takeover activity among the miners, including the news from European Goldfields (up 12p to 775p) earlier in the week that it had received a number of approaches, prompted analysts to cast their eye over who could be next in line for a takeover.Liberum's Ash Lazenby said the sector was "warming up to M&A" and pickedout a number of smaller diggers whohe claimed may be boosted by bidspeculation.Among them was the potash diggerSirius Minerals, which ticked up 2pto 28.75p on the Alternative Investment Market, while he also suggested that the South American assets of Metminco ? 0.08p stronger at 9.38p ? could attracta predator.Hightex was celebrating a hat-trick after announcing it had won the contract to work on Brazil's Maracana Stadium, where the 2014 World Cup Final is to be held. It means the engineer, which shot up 23.08 per cent to 2p, will have been involved in three World Cup Final venues in a row.?Partly to blame for the sharp fall was a disappointing set of results last month, when bosses revealed the start of the new financial year had seen sales growth fall dramatically. Its blue-chip rival Burberry's admission on Wednesday that it has also seen a slowdown hasn't helped, while nor have growing fears over the economy in China, a major market for the luxury sector.Yesterday, however, Mulberry's fall was being attacked as overdone after Panmure Gordon's Philip Dorgan urged punters to snap up the shares. Reiterating his target price of 2,000p, the analyst highlighted the fact that the company's last update actually showed a significant acceleration in sales growth over the preceding six weeks, adding that he believed "this improved trend has continued".In addition, he argued that concerns over China should not be taken so seriously given Mulberry currently only has one shop in Beijing and that "this continues to trade well".With Mr Dorgan also repeating his belief that the company "has the product craftsmanship, design, innovation and quality to become a major global brand", it managed to climb 37p to 1,287p on Aim, although it still has a long way to go before getting near May's all-time high of 2,472p.At the same time Burberry advanced 71p to 1,229p. It was one of the stocks to benefit from the latest Chinese GDP data which showed the country's slowdown was not worse than expected while still being bad enough to stoke hopes of further stimulus measures ahead.The figures also boosted the miners, including Kazakhmys,42.5p stronger at 744p, and Eurasian Natural Resources, 15.2p stronger at 408.8p. The broker ING was arguing the former would rather swap its stake in the latter for other assets? such as Kazzinc, the zinc subsidiary of Glencore, 7p higher at 316.65p, instead of selling it for cash.Meanwhile, Polymetal International ended up as the top blue-chip performer, jumping 56p to 877p after the Russian billionaire Alexander Mamut, who owns 10 per cent of the gold digger, called for its dividend to be increased. The FTSE 100 was lifted 57.88 points to 5,666.13, with just nine stocks ending the session in the red. G4S was one of them ? the security services giant slipped back 4.3p to 278.7p as it continued to be hit by the fall-out from its Olympics failure.After the media stocks benefited on Thursday from the news that ad agency Aegis, up 0.2p to 235.5p, is being snapped up by Japan's Dentsu, ITV ? a constant subject of takeover rumours itself ? was still going strong. The broadcaster powered up 2.7p to 74.95p as Berenberg's analysts kept their "overweight" rating on the stock.Booker's share price has added almost 25 per cent this year, but yesterday the cash-and-carry wholesaler was heading south. While Shore Capital praised it as both an "excellent company" and "a market leader in its field", analysts from the broker calculated that following its rise only a handful of consumer companies in the world, including Coca-Cola and Guinness-brewer Diageo, up 14p to 1,679p, now had a higher earnings rating.As a result, they decided to switch their recommendation to "sell", which saw Booker dip 2.35p to 88.95p. However, they did have plenty of praise for its boss Charles Wilson, who they said "may in time enter a hall of fame that contains the likes of Sir Kenneth Morrison, Sir Terry Leahy, Lord Sainsbury and Archie Norman".At the other end of the mid-tier index, Petropavlovsk raced up 36.6p to 461.6p, although traders weren't getting too excited ? despite the huge jump, the Russian miner's share price has finished the week almost exactly where it started it.Down on Aim, oil explorer Bayfield Energy spurted up 5.5p to 18.5p after announcing a well in its Trintes field off the shore of Trinidad had been brought on production.?Bid talk surrounding Sage has come and gone for years. Earlier this year gossip surfaced in both March and May. Traders are throwing up the usual suspects, including Microsoft and Germany's SAP, as well as talk of private equity interest.But while some City insiders have played down the hearsay claiming M&A interest is old hat ? Microsoft was first linked to Sage back in 2003 ? others suggested the deal would make strategic sense. Sage announced in May that it had teamed up with Microsoft to put its accounting software for small businesses into the cloud via Microsoft's Azure system. Analysts at Merchant Securities said at the time that the deal could reawaken bid rumours.Some investors were convinced and Sage booked a 7.3p gain to 303.5p.As the last few traders arrived back at their desks from August holidays, bid rumours resurfaced.Interest in FTSE 250 Senior Engineering pushed it up 6.4p to 203.8p, a rumour first touted last month. Speculation about bidders eyeing soft drinks group Britvic also bubbled to the surface again and shares fizzed up 2.7p to 322.3p.Normal service was beginning to resume for the FTSE 100 and after four days of losses it edged up 46.93 points to 5758.4. But volumes globally were lower as US markets are closed for Labor Day.Miners led the charge on the FTSE 100 with Fresnillo, up 66p to 1627p, Kazakhmys, 17p to 610p, and Vedanta Resources, 24.5p to 892p, topping the board. However, insurance group Admiral was sent tumbling to the bottom of the index, down 36p to 1,150p, as analysts at Credit Suisse cut their rating of the stock to neutral and fellow scribes at Canaccord Genuity reduced it to sell after last week's half year results.HSBC Global Research turned its attention to the world of expensive handbags and designer clothes and issued a sequel to its luxury report.Scribes cut British brand Burberry's share price target to 1,500p from 1,550p, while Nomura's analysts issued a buy rating and a price target of 1,450p for the stock. Burberry shares strutted up 2p to 1355p. On the mid-caps, housebuilders were boosted by positive comments on planning by Chancellor George Osborne, and Barratt Developments moved up 8.6p to 158.6p and Persimmon jumped 36p to 734p.Over on Aim, organic waste specialist TEG Environmental announced a waste contract in Dagenham and its shares ticked up 2.3p to 6.5pA strange new name for the owner of the Yellow Pages has not allowed it to turn the page on crippling debts and its creditors are hiring advisors to restructure its ￡2.2bn liabilities.Shares in the company, now named Hibu, crumpled 59 per cent, falling 0.7p to 0.49p, on the news that its long list of creditors ? including Royal Bank of Scotland, Goldman Sachs and Deutsche Bank ? are bringing in US restructuring firm Houlihan Lokey and law firm Linklaters to advise on a debt-for-equity swap. The restructuring talks are the second in a year and are likely to see the creditors seize control. The group, whose shares traded at around 600p five years ago, has been attempting to turn itself around, but the growth of online search engines like Google has sealed its fate.Reports about miner Talvivaara were apparently exaggerated. The Finnish company's statement today had a slight touch of the Mark Twain about it. Talvivaara insisted that "recent publicly reported claims" on its cash position and planned job cuts are "incorrect". The mid-cap miner's shares were driven up 14.6p to 140p following the clarification. Last month Talvivaara reported a big rise in second-quarter losses, having been hit by production problems and depressed nickel prices. However, the company claims it can achieve "substantial cost savings without any personnel impact" and said its liquidity position is stable.It said it expects cash reserves to "remain sufficient" regardless of the low nickel price.FTSE 100 Risers Rolls-Royce 835.5p (up 14.5p, 1.8 per cent) Planning green light for engine make's second, hi-tech factory in Rotherham to produce single-crystal turbine blades. Rio Tinto 2795.5p (up 60p, 2.2 per cent) The miner joined peers in a rally yesterday amid speculation China will move to boost its slowing economy. The UK mining sector has fallen 20 per cent since early August on fears of an Asian slowdown.FTSE 100 Fallers Morrisons 278.2p (down 1.8p, 0.6 per cent) The UK's fourth-largest supermarket continued its fall from Friday ahead of its results this week. Analysts at Nomura yesterday joined Barclays in cutting their rating for the shares from buy to neutral. Arm Holdings 559.5p (down 14.5p, 2.5 per cent) The chip maker fell back as analysts at Deutsche Bank cut their rating on the stock from hold to sell.FTSE 250 Risers Home Retail Group 97p (up 3.2p, 3.4 per cent) The Argos to Homebase owner edged up as analysts at Investec raised their rating of the shares from sell to buy. Ophir Energy 586p (up 21.5p, 3.8 per cent) Oil and gas explorer Ophir Energy spurted up following an update from offshore Tanzania. It is also searching for a strategic partner for a well-drilling programme in Tanzania and Kenya. FTSE 250 Fallers Bumi 303.2p (down 14.8p, 4.7 per cent) The debt-laden Indonesian coal miner fell again amid weak coal prices and rumours it will sell a 50 per cent stake in Fajar Bumi. The company, established by the financier Nat Rothschild and Indonesian investor Samin Tan, has already been hit by boardroom disagreements. CSR 310p (down 15.6p, 4.8 per cent) Deutsche Bank scribes downgraded shares to sell, from hold.?In May Tullow was left red faced when it was forced to issue a statement on progress at its Ngamia-1 well, onshore in Kenya, after it accidentally let slip confidential information to investors.The Mbawa-1 well was the first offshore Kenyan gas discovery, and at least it was described as "encouraging". Tullow said that although it was unsuccessful the results would be "vital in evaluating the still significant prospectivity of this block".Tullow is working on the well with the US-based operator Apache and its Australian partners, Origin Energy and Pancontinental.After losing 18p on Monday, Tullow fell another 29p yesterday to 1,357p.Punters donned their tin hats and turned defensive yesterday, leaving the blue chip FTSE 100 down 1.01 points at 5792.19. Safe-haven stocks were in favour, with British American Tobacco up 57.5p to 3,182p, as a cautious feeling swept the City ahead of a German court's ruling on its participation in the planned European bailout today. Meanwhile, riskier stocks ? including most of the mining sector ? dived towards the bottom of the benchmark FTSE 100 index with Fresnillo down 49p to 1,707p and Vedanta Resources and Anglo American also tumbling.Vedanta was also hit by revelations of a scam in India which pushed Goa to impose a temporary ban on mining. The southern state is the country's second-biggest iron ore producer and both Vedanta and its Indian arm, Sesa Goa ? which is merging with Sterlite Industries ?have been affected by the ban. Vedanta lost 24.5p to 978.5p but experts do not expect Goa's move to have a long-term impact on the miner.Anglo American, down 46.5p at 1,955p, meanwhile received a downgrade. Analysts at JPMorgan said Anglo's valuation still did not "adequately reflect the various risks the company faces" and they cut their price target to 1,750p from 1,900p. Over on the FTSE 250 the South African platinum miner Lonmin lost 8p to 611p as its workers strike continued to rumble on. Fears are mounting that unrest will continue to spread across South Africa's mining sector. Royal Bank of Scotland topped the leaderboard, up 11.7p to 264.7p. Scribes at JP Morgan said they would retain their neutral stance on the shares but added that at current levels there was "better value in RBS than Lloyds".The software giant Sage edged up 1.4p to 305.8p. On Monday analysts at Galvan Research issued a buy rating following renewed M&A rumours. Andrew Gibson at Galvan said there was "the distinct possibility that Sage could be a target of German sector peer SAP". Some traders speculated that private equity players might also take a look. The handbags and gladrags at Burberry haven't tempted enough shoppers to part with their cash. The luxury fashion group found itself at the bottom of the FTSE 100, down more than 20 per cent, losing 287p to 1,088p, after a profits warning. The fall prompted some traders to start bottom-fishing and buy the shares. The revelation of slowing sales growth also tarnished luxury peers in Europe. French giant LVMH, the parent of Louis Vuitton, lost 3.36 per cent and the Gucci owner PPR Group was down more than 2 per cent.Today's FTSE 100 quarterly reshuffle is likely to see the broker Icap leaving and the energy services company John Wood Group will rejoin after a year's break. The final sign-off of who joins and who leaves will be confirmed at the end of trading today.Among the small caps Anglesey Mining shot up 1p to 9p. It was revealed that its chief executive, Bill Hooley, demonstrated his confidence by buying 100,000 shares in the company. He now holds 200,000 shares.?With Verizon Communications ? Vodafone's partner in the business and the one in charge of the purse strings ? announcing its results yesterday, hopes were high that this would be an opportunity for a new payout to be announced. What the City got instead was an admission from the US giant's finance chief, Fran Shammo, that the subject of a dividend was not even expected to be discussed at next week's board meeting.That knocked Vodafone back as low as 181.35p during trading, and although the mobile phones giant did manage a partial recovery, by the time the bell rang its share price was still 2.15p lower at 183.05p.Dealers weren't getting too worried, however, saying they were still confident over the chances of a new payout being approved. They also highlighted that Vodafone's share price has been on the rise recently, with the company ? which today unveils its first-quarter results ? having jumped more than 11 per cent in two months.It was another strong day for the FTSE 100, which closed 28.42 points better off at 5,714.19 to set a new two-and-a-half month high. The US reporting season was helping the top-tier index advance, while poor economic data from the States and a tough Spanish bond auction were shrugged off.Irish building materials group CRH was in the red following reports from India claiming it is interested in the cement business of Jaiprakash Associates, the construction company which developed the country's Formula One track. The talk was that a deal could end up being worth up to $1.6bn (￡1bn), although Goodbody's Robert Eason pointed out the group's recent sale of its stake in Portugal's Secil meant CRH "has plenty of financial headroom". Nonetheless, the stock was pushed back 9p to 1,204p, with CRH also hurt by Exane BNP Paribas cutting its rating to "neutral".Elsewhere among the energy groups, Royal Dutch Shell crept down 2.5p to 2,298p. Dealers highlighted the continuing presence of vague speculation it may be interested in a move for Maurel et Prom, although the boss of the French oil company dismissed such rumours last month. Shell was also the subject of a Bloomberg report claiming it is in talks with Anadarko over potentially buying the US group's Mozambique gas assets.On the 10th anniversary of its listing, luxury brand Burberry rose 57p to 1,289p, pushed up by French peer Hermes' results coming in ahead of expectations.The London Stock Exchange enjoyed a late move as bid speculation made a return around the bourse, which closed 21p better off at 1,023p on the FTSE 250. Frequently the subject of takeover whispers, the latest rumours put forward the Singapore Stock Exchange as a possible suitor, with a potential price being suggested of 1,350p a pop, although traders treated the tale with a heavy dose of salt.Having recommended the stock as a buy for nearly two years, Bank of America Merrill Lynch's analysts announced they were downgrading TalkTalk's rating to "neutral". They were quick to point out this "does not mean that we have 'lost faith' in the company", although this didn't stop the broadband provider retreating 7.1p to 182.7p.Kurdistan oil explorers were in focus, with Afren spurting up 9.1p to 128p after a promising update from its Simrit well. Not that the pessimists at Liberum Capital were happy ? citing the current complications involved with operating in the autonomous region of Iraq, they warned that "in the absence of exports options and with a limited domestic market, the value is unclear".Meanwhile, on Aim, fellow Kurdistan-driller Gulf Keystone Petroleum climbed 8.75p to 221p as it announced a further resources upgrade to its Shaikan field.After the bell, small-cap digital radio group Sepura (down 0.5p to 70.5p) announced that ? citing "substantial institutional demand" ? four major shareholders had decided to sell a total of nearly 11 million shares.?Amid the constant torrent of doom and gloom surrounding consumers, Whitbread has been held up for a while as one of the few names seemingly able to avoid the woes being suffered by its neighbours on the high street. However, earlier in the week cracks finally started to appear, with the leisure giant admitting its sales growth had slowed.Since then, it has been rather unloved in the Square Mile. Yet last night it turned a corner, rising for the first time since the update as it pushed up 20p to 1,528p. The gains came after HSBC put itself firmly in the group's corner, not only telling investors to stop being hasty but also claiming that ? if history repeats itself ? this could provide a perfect buying opportunity.To support her stance, the broker's analyst Lena Thakkar pointed to when it last flagged up a slowdown in growth back in 2009, saying that it actually turned out to be a "buy signal". She highlighted that, despite Whitbread's like-for-like sales staying negative for a number of months, at the same time its share price steadily rose after the initial fall. As a result, Ms Thakker kept her "buy" rating and predicted that ? despite the update ? it would "continue to outperform its industry peers", although she did cut her target price from 1,900p to 1,800p.The FTSE 100 was still yo-yoing, moving in the opposite direction to the day before for the sixth successive session. It jumped up 34.05 points to 5,400.85, shifting off a two-week low, although a decent Spanish bond auction was countered by mixed economic data from the US and signs of further discord over the eurozone deal reached in Brussels last week.Old Mutual led the way, jumping up 12.7p ? or 11.44 per cent ? to 123.7p on news it had managed to sell its Norwegian operations for $3.2bn. With the move raising the possibility of further deals in the insurance sector, peers Admiral and Aviva were also better off, shifting up 13.5p to 800.5p and 0.5p to 288.3p respectively.X Factor broadcaster ITV, meanwhile, was bumped up 1.35p to 62.35p after Ofcom revealed it was not going to recommend a full inquiry into the television advertising market. Panmure Gordon's Alex DeGroote said the news "may remove some of the regulatory discount" around the group, although traders were more interested because of their belief it looks cheap.At first it seemed as if Hargreaves Lansdown was heading for a day in the red, with the investment fund giant slipping back to 414p. Yet despite having its rating downgraded by Citigroup's Haley Tam to "neutral", with the analyst saying it would be hit next year by a low appetite for risk among investors, the group finished 13.5p better off at 434.9p.Another stock behind in early trading was Burberry, which slipped as dealers awoke to data from China ? a key region for the upmarket brand ? showing further signs it is being affected by the West's troubles. However, by the bell it had shrugged off the numbers to edge up 9p to 1,148p, even as JPMorgan Cazenove berated the market for being too optimistic over the luxury goods market's outlook for 2012.At the less high-end side of the retail sector, there was yet more bad news on the high street from the latest ONS sales figures for November showing a 0.4 per cent drop. Still, while JD Sports Fashion was knocked back 7.39 per cent to 570p, meaning its share price has retreated almost 19 per cent over the last week, at the other end of the FTSE 250 Carpetright managed to shoot up 40.1p to 477.5p.The unwanted title of being the mid-tier index's biggest loser went to International Personal Finance. The emerging markets lender confirmed analysts' worst fears by saying its profits would be significantly hit by recent foreign exchange changes, prompting it to slump 9.24 per cent to 165p.They say bad news comes in threes, and so it proved for Pursuit Dynamics yesterday. The AIM-listed technology developer left more than a few investors rather ashen-faced and nursing burnt fingers after it revealed not only had its full-year losses increased to ￡15.3m but that it was also launching a rights issue.On top of that, it announced its chief executive Roel Pieper had decided to resign, all of which resulted in its share price losing a whopping 54.24 per cent, as it dropped 110.25p to 93p.Elsewhere, Zoltav was still catching the attention of traders as they continued to speculate over the possibility of stakebuilders in the resources company, which moved 0.25p to 4.45p.?On a catwalk strewn with fallen leaves, models, male and female,came out in military great coats, Black Watch tartans, quiltedvelvet and tulle scattered with brightly coloured blooms. McQ wasin launched in 2006 but this was its runway debut. The AlexanderMcQueen main line will be shown in Paris in two weeks.McQueen being McQueen, however, while the collection was notsuch a grand affair as its rarefied big sister, its presentationwas never going to be anything less than spectacular.With that in mind, the show closed with American supermodelKristen McMenamy entering an absinthe hut in a never-ending forestthat appeared as if by magic and dressed, conversely, fromhead-to-toe in white, her wasp-waisted overblown ballerina gownscattered with velvet foliage.If London remains predominantly famous for its fledgling names,the exception that proves the rule is Burberry, a globallyrecognised international brand with the money and power behind itto match.Burberry Prorsum has been showcased in the British capital since2008 (prior to that the show was in Milan) and it gives LondonFashion Week an ultra-glossy and unusually corporate internationallift.Still, the label is quintessentially British at heart as couldbe seen in yesterday's procession of outerwear. Blanket coats,bombers, waxed jackets and of course the label's famous trenchcoat, this time cut in a gabardine and tweed mix, remain the coreof its business.Christopher Bailey, Burberry's creative director, understandsthis sensibility well. More typically English references came inthe form of flared riding skirts, voluminous dress shirts borrowedfrom men, animal print T-shirts, and for the country-house soiree,fringed dresses and quilted velvet in the colour of the forthcomingautumn season: ox-blood.Christopher Kane is a man who is known for taking thepotentially stuffy cliches of the bourgeois wardrobe and twistingthem slightly ? or indeed quite a lot. His collection was inspired,he said, by art photographer Joseph Szabo's portraits of Americanteenagers and the ambivalence of adolescence. Here was a woman ? orin fact a girl ? who strode down the runway in leather andpinstripe, velvet and moire, all in hard as nails colours ? royalblue, true red, purple and predominantly black ? and emphaticallyheavy square-toed ankle boots and Mary-Jane shoes.If last season Kane invested the ubiquitous reference tomid-20th haute couture with a homespun feel, this time he darkenedit to the point where it was almost gothic, and certainly mournful,in flavour. Black roses on narrow knee-length dresses were morenasty than nice; the ribbons threaded through neck-and waist-lines,similarly, came not in fluttering silks but padded black leathertied into stiff bows.Chunky knit jumpers, cigarette pants and skinny leather coatsonly added to the impression of ferocity more than overt femininityin the stereotypical sense of the word.Giles Deacon's woman was a more grown-up creature although onewho clearly also has a far from conventional heart. "The furtheradventures of the disco Jacobean fairytale," was how the designersummed up his show.?I am struck by the ham analogy during a recent interview with Redmayne. Exactly 10 years since he was plucked from Cambridge University to play Viola opposite Mark Rylance's Olivia in a 400th-anniversary production of Twelfth Night, he has just learned that his current role as Richard II at the Donmar Warehouse has been crowned Best Shakespearean Performance at the Critics' Circle Awards ? no mean feat, given the season has also seen heavyweight Shakespeare contributions from the likes of Spacey, Tennant, Sheen and Fiennes.In the decade between Viola and Richard, Redmayne has worked fastidiously and uncompromisingly. Allergic to anything resembling complacency, he rarely takes a day off. Now he is talking to me over a cup of tea before heading back to the theatre for that night's performance, and he is radiant with excitement at the Critics' Circle news. "It's just the loveliest, loveliest thing that could have happened," he admits. But where most actors would take such a prize as cue to relax and enjoy the last weeks of the run, Redmayne shakes his head. He's going back to work."Because you never get it right," he insists. "You never get it close to getting it right, you never get one line exactly how your notion of it should be. That's what's so exciting about theatre. Most actors hate watching their own films because all you can see is the glaring mistakes, your own tricks and ticks. But people often ask, how can you do the same play night after night for months on end and not get bored? And that's the reason. In theatre you always have the chance to try and fix what you did the night before."It seems remarkable that London-born Redmayne, who has just turned 30 and is having, by any definition, a golden moment, should remain so self-critical. As well as giving his Richard every night, making lines like "I live by bread like you, feel want/ Taste grief, need friends" seem revelatory, he is also gracing Sunday night TV screens as Stephen Wraysford in a landmark BBC1 adaptation of Sebastian Faulks's Birdsong, and charming cinema audiences in My Week With Marilyn. As soon as Richard II closes, the former Eton and Cambridge choral scholar is off to play (and sing) Marius in Tom Hooper's big-screen musical adaptation of Les Miserables, with Russell Crowe, Hugh Jackman, Helena Bonham Carter and Anne Hathaway. And with major theatre awards from the Olivier to the Tony already to his name, he is now up for a Bafta ? this year's Rising Star Award, which is voted for by the public ? and looking, increasingly, like the one to beat.But this is also the young man who was so unconvinced he would make it as an actor that he seriously considered other career options after graduating, including art history and banking (his father and one of his three brothers are in finance; nobody else in his family is in the arts). "I didn't go to drama school, so there was no official transformation stage, no moment where I got a certificate, even a bit of paper, saying 'right, you're allowed to do this now.'"."After university, I gave myself a year. I was working in a pub and doing excruciating auditions and wondering if my new agent who'd taken this huge punt on me would sack me, and I remember getting a part in an episode of Doctors and it was probably the most exciting thing that had ever happened in my life. Then I went to Liverpool to do a play called Master Harold... and the Boys and I was living in a hostel on my own for three months and it was the most wonderful experience. I started to think, secretly, 'Well, maybe I can do this.' But I came back to London and nobody took any notice and I went back to work at the pub. I always felt a bit fraudulent, like I was waiting to be exposed."Munching a biscuit, he contemplates this. "In a way, I still do. I still feel this incredible sense of gratitude that anybody actually lets me do this professionally."In any other actor, this might come across as galling false modesty. Given his current ubiquity it's easy to imagine Redmayne's success has arrived largely overnight; but that "star" to which the Bafta nomination alludes has been gradually rising for 10 years. It may also be tempting, considering the green eyes, 6ft 1in frame, and ridiculous cheekbones that have won him Burberry modelling contracts, to assume that this is just another talented pretty boy who happened to get lucky. But ever since Rylance gave him that first big break, Redmayne has personified the old adage that luck is merely what happens when hard work meets opportunity. As his CV has swelled, so too has his dedication; the more professional triumphs that have come his way, the more he has put his head down and worked harder."Listen, acting is not surgery," he remarks. "It's entertainment. You're doing something to hopefully move people, to make them laugh, to transport them. But actors are vulnerable, and the reason we're vulnerable is that we're always trying to recreate human behaviour. And any human being has the right to look at that behaviour and decide if it looks real to them or not."Everyone has that capacity for judgment, everyone can turn around and say, 'Sorry, but I just don't believe that.' So if you have thin skin ? and I don't have particularly thick skin ? then your need to constantly please people, well... it's completely impossible. That's why I still feel I've got so much work to do, to really try and nail this thing."?Birdsong ends Sunday, 9pm on BBC1. Richard II is at the Donmar Warehouse, London (www.donmarwarehouse.com) until 4 February. My Week with Marilyn is in cinemas now?Who is your style inspiration?It varies, but at the moment it’s the actor Edward Fox. He’s always been impeccably turned out, but his tweed suits, handmade shoes, perfectly placed tie knots and penchant for a double-breasted cardigan jacket seem so right.What’s your must-have this season?I don’t think there is one. The idea of a must-have for men is an uncomfortable one. However, there are some great pieces this autumn that I certainly covet: a double-breasted, fitted tweed jacket by the French brand Ami; the Charlie Brown sweater by US designer Michael Bastian and a pair of washed leather Cormac boots by O’Keeffe.Which trends are you focusing on for autumn?Two trends to enjoy this autumn are the country look, and the dandy one: the first is all about tweeds, corduroys, boots, waxed jackets and chunky sweaters; the second is the dashing return of the velvet jacket. These look great dressed up for evening, or down with jeans for daywear.What’s the best investment buy of the season?If you can only buy one thing, invest in a coat. It’s the quickest way to update your wardrobe and the first item anyone sees when you walk into a room. If on a budget, I would recommend the navy wool coat by Ami, or the black peacoat by NN07.Give us your best shopping tip for men?I have to say this ? shop online, spend time researching, get your clothes delivered to you, try them on in the comfort of your home and with your entire wardrobe to mix and match with, and if it doesn’t fit, MrPorter.com will collect from you for free. Easy.All clothing available from mrporter.com?Stacey Smith, Menswear buyer at MatchesWhat’s your men’s must-have this season?A good jacket will see you through autumn and beyond, and will form the centrepiece of your wardrobe. A biker ? like this one by A Sauvage ? is always a sound choice: you can wear it over a graphic tee, and layer it over knitwear as the temperature drops. We’re also championing this wool and leather version by Acne; the mix of textures makes it a great update of a classic style.What’s your most important trend for autumn?We loved the deep, boozy reds we saw on the catwalks. A great shade to lift your wardrobe but not garish; see Ami’s heavy-duty burgundy roll neck.What are the best affordable and investment buys of the season?Any well-dressed man knows the devil is in the detail ? tatty accessories can ruin even the best of looks. Anderson’s belts are colourful and make an affordable way to lift an off-duty look; or you could invest in Lanvin’s tartan trainers.Who’s your style inspiration?For me, no one comes close to Marcello Mastroianni in La Dolce Vita. It’s the way he wears impeccably pristine tailoring with such a sense of ease.What’s your best shopping tip?We offer a private shopping service ? our team assess what you need for the season ahead and offer suggestions.All clothes available from matches.com?Lee Douros, Menswear buyer at My-wardrobe.comWhat’s your must-have this season?One of the most important purchases is a winter coat, with temperatures dropping so quickly now. I’ve got my eye on a Burberry Brit coat this season. It has subtle military details, like epaulettes and double-breasted buttoning, which work well as part of the military trend that we saw on the catwalks. The ceylon brown colour [that’s ‘tea’ to us civilians ? Ed] is a fresh take on standard camel coats.What’s your most important trend for autumn?There’s a feeling of a smartening up within menswear this season. Field jackets make way for blazers, polo tops for smarter shirts.What’s the best investment buy for the season?This striking Fair Isle knit by Barbour is a great investment piece and an on-trend pattern for the season. It also has great longevity as you will be able to wear it throughout the autumn; layer it under coats for winter ? and it’s the perfect Christmas jumper to boot!Who’s your style inspiration?I can’t say one person gives me all the inspiration I need; I get it from friends and people around me, from the catwalks of my favourite designers, from well-styled editorial shoots, and from street-style blogs.What’s your best shopping tip?I think men let themselves down so often by not investing in good-quality shoes. Scuffed, old shoes really pull down a good outfit. Investing in three or four good pairs will see you through a few years of wear, as long as you take care of the leather.All clothing available from mywardrobe.com?Jake Bancroft Menswear buyer, Coggles.comWhat's your must-have this season?I think a new piece of outerwear is always a good choice. A deconstructed blazer with a slight point of difference is a great seasonal piece. The Our Legacy three-button blazer looks great with an oversized 'T' and the cuff turned back.What's your most important trend for autumn?Always keep an eye on tailoring. Look for the introduction of technical fabrics to add a touch of sportswear to a contemporary outfit. Brooklyn We Go Hard (BWGH) are having a great season with their sweats, and working on collaborations with Opening Ceremony and Maison Kitsune.What's the best investment buy of the season?A good pair of shoes is worth every penny and can transform an outfit. Anything from the Common Projects range is key to my wardrobe.Best shopping tip?Take a little time on the extras. There's increasing awareness of the importance of fragrance and grooming. Comme des Garcons has recently released its new 'Amazing Green' fragrance, very subtle but fresh and energising with notes of dew mist, gunpowder and jungle leaves.Who's your style inspiration?I'm not a huge fan of looking for complete inspiration from someone, but for effortless style, Jean-Paul Belmondo (Breathless): trim trouser with a cuff and crease, deconstructed blazers and oversized shirting barely buttoned up.All clothing available from coggles.com?Adam Kelly, Menswear buying manager, SelfridgesWhat's your must-have for this season?Oxblood red is a great alternative to black; look out for gorgeous autumnal shades from Marni and Margiela.What are the most important trends?Sportswear has been re-imagined in some really fresh, high-end ways. Bomber jackets are going nowhere ? we saw many interpretations at the shows. McQ and Margiela in particular have beautiful ones.Give us your best investment for the coming monthsIf you're looking to branch out into a new designer, Marni is my number-one tip right now. Caps are absolutely huge and a satchel makes a great option for everyday use. This Cambridge Satchel Company version is really current. Dior are one of the brands owning the high-end hi-top this season ? I like the understated-ness of their take. And finally, a one-button suit can create a really sharp shape ? this is my ultimate investment piece for the season. It lasts forever.Who's your style inspiration?Cary Grant and Steve McQueen are icons in their fashion fields.What's your best shopping tip?Don't be afraid of accessories.All clothing available from selfridges.com?The figures show the struggle to smash the "glass ceiling" in boardrooms is accelerating. Recent months have seen 44 per cent of all new board-level appointments going to women, including Genevieve Berger (pictured) at the pharma giant AstraZeneca, Miranda Curtis at the retailer Marks & Spencer and Diana Layfield at the temporary power group Aggreko.Only eight all-male boards remain, mainly made up of miners and including Glencore, Xstrata, Vedanta and Antofagasta. That's a sharp decline from the 21 exclusively male boardrooms noted by Lord Davies, the former trade minister, when he produced his Government-commissioned report in February 2011.Overall 16.7 per cent of FTSE 100 board seats are held by women, the Professional Boards Forum reported. To reach the 25 per cent target for 2015, another 91 seats must go to women.Elin Hurvenes, founder of The Professional Boards Forum, said: "The figures contradict recent reports that chairmen only recruit mirror images of themselves. It also puts to rest the argument that board-ready women don't exist. UK chairmen are doing a good job."The drinks giant Diageo has the most women in the boardroom, with 44 per cent of directors being female. Burberry and Pearson, both led by women, are next best, with 38 per cent and 33 per cent female representation.?The figures show the struggle to smash the "glass ceiling" in boardrooms is intensifying. In recent months, 44 per cent of all board-level appointments have gone to women, including Genevieve Berger at the pharmaceuticals giant AstraZeneca, Miranda Curtis at the retailer Marks & Spencer and Diana Layfield at the temporary power supplier Aggreko.Only eight all-male boards remain, mainly at mining companies such as Glencore, Xstrata, Vedanta and Antofagasta. That's a sharp decline from the 21 exclusively male boardrooms noted by Lord Davies, the former trade minister, when he produced his Government-commissioned report in February 2011.Overall 16.7 per cent of FTSE 100 board seats are held by women, the Professional Boards Forum reported. To reach the 25 per cent target for 2015, another 91 seats must go to women.Elin Hurvenes, the forum's founder, said: "The figures contradict recent reports that chairmen only recruit mirror images of themselves. It also puts to rest the argument that board-ready women don't exist. UK chairmen are doing a good job."The drinks giant Diageo has the most women in the boardroom? 44 per cent of its directors are female.Burberry and Pearson, both led by women, are next best, with 38 and 33 per cent female representation respectively.?However, the group ? which is best-known for its handbags that are endorsed by celebrities ? saw a sharp slowdown in its underlying sales growth to 18 per cent over the last 10 weeks, which it blamed on being up against soaring revenues in the same period in 2010. Still, Godfrey Davis, the chief executive of Mulberry, struck a bullish tone on its growth prospects, as it plots nine new stores globally in the second half. He said: "We expect to continue showing a healthy rate of growth ? that is the underlying story." Fashion groups, such as Mulberry and Burberry, have continued to power ahead, as well-heeled shoppers globally show few, if any, signs of cutting back on buying luxury products. Mulberry grew its pre-tax profits by 231 per cent to ￡15.6m over the six months to 30 September. This uplift was helped by a 2.3 per cent rise in the group's gross margins to 66.2 per cent. Soaring retail sales up by 47 per cent ? higher by 44 per cent on a like-for-like basis ? also galvanised its profits. Matching this underlying sales figure, Mr Davis said it has enjoyed "good growth" around the UK at its shops in cities, such as in Birmingham, Glasgow and Cardiff. But he particularly highlighted the uplift in London driven by overseas tourists. "We are seeing more of the travelling consumers visiting London and seeking out our stores. The tax-free shoppers have increased in our Bond Street, Harrods and Selfridges [shops]."He added: "We are seeing significant numbers of Chinese in London and also Koreans, as well as Brazilians in London and New York. It is almost the march of the new order." South Korea was Mulberry's fastest-growing country over the half year, although Mr Davis also cited a strong performance in Hong Kong. Boosted by a 93 per cent rise in wholesale orders, Mulberry's total revenues jumped by 62 per cent to ￡72.3m. The scale of its growth ? helped by international expansion ? is illustrated by the fact that its sales over the half year exceeded those in the 12 months to March 2010. Mr Davis said: "This rate of growth is above our planned rate." He attributed the slowdown in sales over the 10 weeks to 3 December to Mulberry delivering sales up by 66 per cent over the same period in 2010. Its trading last year was boosted by the introduction of new ranges of its popular Bayswater and Alexa handbags around that time. The price range of these bags typically starts at ￡575 but goes up to ￡3,500. Shares in Mulberry, which are up nearly 70 per cent this year, rose by 6p to 1,500p.?Lifted by strong trading in Asian markets and a 30% rise in sales from 45 stores and department store concessions in the UK, Mulberry reported a 54% jump in profits to ￡36 million for the year to March 31.While sales growth has slowed in the weeks since then, Mulberry will press ahead with recently announced plans to open a second factory in Somerset in a move creating 300 jobs and doubling its UK capacity.The ￡7.5 million project in Bridgwater, which is being supported by the Regional Growth Fund, comes less than a year after it completed the extension of its existing factory at Chilcompton, Somerset, creating 60 new jobs.Revenues rose 38% to ￡168.5 million over the last financial year, helped by new stores in New York and at Westfield Stratford near the Olympic site.The company's best known product of recent times has been the Alexa bag - inspired by style icon Alexa Chung - while in recent weeks it has launched the Del Rey bag, which is inspired by American artist Lana Del Rey.Mulberry said store sales were up 12% for the 10 weeks to last Saturday as it comes up against tougher comparatives with a year earlier and as trading conditions become more difficult.Chairman Godfrey Davis said: "While the current economic conditions make the short term trading outlook more challenging in some markets, we remain confident about Mulberry's long-term future."Shares fell 20% today, undoing some of their 50% hike in the past year, as profits were ￡2 million less than the City forecast.Matthew McEachran, an analyst at Singer Capital Markets, said the 25%increase in the dividend was also below expectations but he believes growth prospects remain "exciting".The group plans to open between 15 and 20 international stores this year, including in South Korea, San Francisco, Singapore, Japan andShanghai.Jaana Jatyri, chief executive of fashion forecaster Trendstop.com, said: "More than even Burberry, perhaps, Mulberry is a brand that has benefited from the growing demand in Asia."Some are even buying Mulberry hand-crafted handbags as an investment, seeing them as a safe haven similar to gold."The group, which was founded in 1971 by Roger Saul and his motherJoan, recently appointed Frenchman Bruno Guillon, former managing director of luxury brand Hermes, as chief executive.PA?The group, whose best selling products include its Alexa handbag named after television presenter Alexa Chung, enjoyed a 41% sales boom in the six weeks to January 14 as the high end of the fashion market proved resilient to the economic gloom.Somerset-based Mulberry is likely to have benefited from strong demand from its stores in Asia and from affluent Asian tourists visiting stores in the West.It has opened 11 new outlets overseas since March, including a flagship store in New York and sites in Singapore, Bangkok, Taipei and five in South Korea, bringing its total to 92, with more than half overseas.Shares rose 6% after the group said profits for the year to March 31 are likely to be higher than the 29% rise to ￡30.1 million it had previously expected.Chairman and chief executive Godfrey Davis said he was delighted with the latest sales performance, which represented a marked acceleration on the 14% rise in the previous 10 weeks.Mulberry has upgraded its profit forecasts three times in a year and last month announced half-year profits more than trebled to ￡15.6 million.The company, which was founded in 1971 by Roger Saul and his mother Joan in Somerset, has ambitions to transform itself into a major global brand, following in the footsteps of UK label Burberry.It plans to open more stores in South Korea early this year and it recently poached French chief executive Bruno Guillon from luxury brand Hermes to spearhead its growth. He will take over from Mr Davis from March 1.Mulberry has also invested ￡2 million expanding its factory, The Rookery, in Chilcompton, Somerset, increasing the brand's manufacturing capacity by 30% and creating 50 jobs.Philip Dorgan, an analyst at Panmure Gordon, said: "This is yet another extraordinarily strong update from Mulberry."It has barely scratched the surface of its global potential, with only a handful of stores in many key luxury goods markets."He upgraded his full-year profits forecast by ￡2 million to ￡37 million, while the following year's figure was also pushed up by ￡1 million to ￡45 million.PA?When I was a child I wanted to be... a bed tester. I loved sleeping and I said to my mum, is there a job where someone can test beds and tell people which are the comfiest?If I could change one thing about myself... To think a bit more before I do things; I tend to be quite fearless in jumping into things.You wouldn't know it but I am very good at... boxing. I started a few years ago in New York.You may not know it but I'm no good at... dancing. I always feel like I'm an awkward teenager at a school disco.At night I dream of... I used to have a recurring dream when I was a child ? you know that scene in Star Wars where Chewbacca's in the garbage disposal?I wish I had never worn... Nothing ? I feel like whatever I wear is cool. You make that decision, you've got to roll with it.What I see when I look in the mirror... Myself. I really do.My favourite item of clothing... At the moment, I have this new floral Joseph dress which I can't take off ? it reminds me of grunge.It's not fashionable but I like... going to see classical music live.I drive... my bicycle.My house is... At the moment, it's a hotel.My favourite work of art... I love Damien's 'spot paintings', they're so cool. He's the nicest guy I ever met. He's such a northern monkey.My favourite building... Whenever I'm in London, I always love running past Buckingham Palace.A book that changed me... The Little Prince. I read it as a child and it's one I always have a look at.Movie heaven... I like a drama, something really gritty ? I love English, independent films, like Dead Man's Shoes, London to Brighton.My greatest regret... No regrets.The last time I cried... My friend had a baby and I went to see her in the hospital just after she'd had it ? I was like, "Oh my God, someone just came on to the planet! You made her!".My five-year plan... I suppose I'll be 34... I hope I'll have a few kids, have progressed in my acting career, and have a lot of love in my life.What's the point? To find meaning.My life in six words... Who knows what's gonna happen next?A LIFE IN BRIEFAgyness Deyn was born Laura Hollins, in 1983. She grew up in Rawtenstall, Lancashire, and famously worked in her local fish and chip shop. Deyn was spotted by a talent scout at 19; she made her catwalk debut for Marc Jacobs in New York in 2006. Deyn went on to grace the covers of Vogue, i-D and Love, and has fronted campaigns for Mulberry, Burberry and Armani. She appears in the film Pusher, and will be starring in The Leisure Society, at Trafalagr Studios, Tuesday to 31 March. Deyn is based in LA?The group, which started as a shirt store in Glasgow in 1988, is following in the footsteps of UK brands Burberry and Mulberry by building a global footprint and last year opened stores in Hong Kong, Paris, San Diego and Manchester.It plans more openings in Fifth Avenue in New York, Brompton Road in London, Toronto and China and last week opened in Tokyo - its first outlet in Japan.The new stores and strong wholesale trade helped sales rise 15% to ￡215.6 million in the year to January 28 and underlying profits increase 12% to ￡27.1 million in a performance founder Ray Kelvin described as "excellent".Unlike many of its rivals, it did not have to put on special offers over the Christmas period to drum up trade and sold all of its stock by the end of the season.The group also said its new spring ranges have been well received since their recent launch.Mr Kelvin said: "This has been a very exciting year for the Ted Baker brand."We have further developed our presence in established markets with new stores in Europe, the US and Hong Kong and laid strong foundations to support growth into new markets in 2012."PA?But, as the autumn 2012 collections are unveiled, more and more designers are questioning the format; seeking something new in an age where digital culture means every image is beamed straight to an audience at home and cloistered, exclusive runways are no longer the most practical way of promoting their labels."There has been a massive change," says photographer Nick Knight, founder of SHOWstudio.com, which live-streams shows as well as interviews and fashion shoots. "The public are seeing clothes as they are shown, rather than in magazines three months later. And they want them when they see them."The industry has been slow to react to the immediacy afforded by Twitter, where pictures from shows are uploaded in their thousands, but the revival of resort and pre-collections (which bridge the gap between summer and autumn, and are often cheaper) has proved a successful way of connecting with customers in real time. Burberry collections can now be pre-ordered online directly from the catwalk show, and pieces arrive up to six weeks later. But shows remain the primary way of communicating one's vision or message. When London Fashion Week opens next week, more than ￡100m-worth of orders will be placed. It will host 5,000-plus visitors at more than 70 shows and 40 presentations ? all of those who enter the site must be accredited, with a professional reason to be there.But does that make sense in the age of the amateur, where any fashion-obsessed teenager can create their own blog and online following, and when some of them end up on the front row?Designer Richard Nicoll's shows have been a highlight of the capital's schedule for several years, but this season will show his collection as a live digital installation. "I started to feel limited by the traditional catwalk format," he explains. "The way we are presenting our autumn collection allows us to engage in a more intimate way. It's not about it being 'better' than a catwalk show ? more about this new format feeling more relevant to my collections, now that they are so regular and are equally commercially important."Nicoll's view is becoming increasingly prevalent at a time when many labels are launching up to six collections a year, sometimes more. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld oversees the label's main collections, as well as resort, pre-fall, couture and an annual metiers d'art exposition to showcase the craftsmanship of the atelier. There are sumptuous events for each ? an under-the-sea wonderland, flying guests to Cannes, a couture show presented on a catwalk made to look like the innards of a private jet ? but many labels do not have the capacity for such largesse, so the shift away from catwalks could have a happy side-effect for bank accounts."Catwalk shows cost a lot," says Rosie Vogel, Vogue's fashion bookings editor, who produces London shows, including Meadham Kirchhoff (whose presentation last season opened with can-canning Courtney Love lookalikes and closed with pirouetting pre-teen ballerinas) and Topshop Unique, one of the biggest events on the schedule. "A venue might cost ￡30,000 or ￡40,000; production costs will be tens of thousands. Then there's the set, ￡400 to ￡500 hundred pounds per model and they'll need fifteen of them. You might be able to get hair and make-up sponsored by someone like MAC, but you need to pay assistants. So you need sponsors ? but then there's the question of how much integrity you lose." It's no wonder some designers are outfaced by the scale of things. But there are reasons other than cost that might mean they opt out of the traditional format. Tom Ford's shows are held for small audiences, very few members of the press, with a strict "no photographs, no reviews" policy. His designs are bought by a small but reliable coterie of private customers, many of whom attend the show and he is vocal about the fact that designers' wares are shown six months ahead of hitting the shops, giving the high street ample time to copy pieces and release them before the originals. Catwalks in an internet age are almost an invitation for copycatting.Before the web took hold, high-street designers used to cadge and bargain for showreels. Now they can just look online.To this end, Celine's creative director, Phoebe Philo, has banned photography and tweeting backstage at her shows and from showroom appointments. The designer surprised press last month with the announcement that she would not being holding a catwalk show in Paris this season because she is pregnant, opting instead for a smaller presentation format. "Phoebe is in a position to do whatever she wants," adds Rosie Vogel. "It's very admirable to scale things down so she doesn't feel pressured. After all, John Galliano was sacked immediately and the show still went ahead. It reflects her and is testament to how involved she is."Likewise, other names have shunned the catwalk for a medium more suited to their own vision. Helmut Lang was the first to live-stream his collection without putting on a show in 1998, inviting editors and buyers to see the pieces first-hand at appointments. And Gareth Pugh creates video installations with film-maker Ruth Hogben each season.They're certainly a change from his formative London shows: characterised by a scrum of (usually uninvited) fans and peppered with whoops and screams at his more outlandish pieces, they felt like moments, embodiments of a zeitgeist.In cyberspace, of course, no-one can hear you cheer. In that way, fashion has become more democratic ? that everyone might experience the thrill and innovation of designers such as Pugh and Alexander McQueen (whose final show before his death was one of the first to be live-streamed on SHOWstudio) ? but it makes it much less easy to keep tabs on who's viewing it and what nascent tastes approve of. And, whatever the current feeling, these are not reins that the industry really wants to let go of.?During the boom it was possible to at least pretend class was no more ? that "we're all middle class now". As the Chancellor of the Exchequer, Gordon Brown had pronounced the end of "boom and bust", and it seemed as though a future of rising living standards beckoned for all. At a time of economic chaos, this period looks like a golden age ? even if we now know our sense of prosperity was built on sand.Chavs was my contribution to ending the conspiracy of silence over class. But, unexpectedly, it pushed at an open door. Economic crisis helped to refocus attention on the unjust distribution of wealth and power in society. Throughout 2011, living standards for the average Briton were declining at the fastest rate since the 1920s. The Child Poverty Action Group warned that poor families faced a "triple whammy" of benefit, support and service cuts. But the wealth of the richest 1,000 Britons, meanwhile, increased by a fifth, after leaping by 30 per cent ? the biggest increase ever recorded ? in 2010.For some critics, the book failed to acknowledge that the object of demonization was an identifiable subgroup of undesirables ? a workless Burberry-wearing underclass ? rather than the working class as a whole. It aimed to challenge the myth that "we're all middle class now": that most of the old working class had been 'aspirational' and joined Middle Britain (whatever that was), leaving behind a feckless, problematic rump. This was often racialized and described as the "white working class". "Chavs" was the term ? encompassing a whole range of pejorative connotations ? that best summed up this caricature.The term "chav" is used by different groups of people throughout British society. Practically nobody, except in jest, self-identifies as a chav. The term is almost always an insult imposed on individuals against their consent.In large part, the demonization of the working class is the legacy of a concerted effort to shift public attitudes, which began under Thatcher, continued with New Labour and has gained further momentum under the Coalition. Poverty and unemployment were no longer to be seen as social problems, but more to do with individual moral failings. Anyone could make it if they tried hard enough, or so the myth went. Of course, few would have known from reading newspapers or watching TV that the Jobseekers' Allowance was worth just ￡67.50 ? and even less for those under the age of 26. And of course, such attitudes have political consequences. It was also suggested that I had a very one-dimensional view of the working class: that what I was actually talking about was a male, white working class. But in fact many of the key examples of demonised figures portrayed as representative of larger groups of people were women ? Karen Matthews, Jade Goody and Vicky Pollard, for example. Though chavs are often regarded as "white working-class" figures, it should be noted that the book was intentionally titled "the demonization of the working class" rather than "the white working class". After long arguing "we're all middle class", the media and politicians started talking about the working class again, but in a racialised form.Where race does come into it is the fact that working-class people from ethnic minority backgrounds suffer from other forms of oppression and exploitation. The majority of British Bangladeshis and Pakistanis, for example, live in poverty, while black people are far more likely to be stopped by the police. One of the main reasons politicians and media commentators started talking about the "white working class" was the emergence of far-right populism, as most prominently expressed by the British National Party. But Chavs argued that such movements were, above all, driven by social and economic insecurities. ?The burgers were good, as burgers go, and a couple of decent cocktails dealt with the inner curmudgeon. But as I turned in my ￡30 share of the bill, I experienced that same feeling of vague resignation that closes many of my meals out in the British capital. It took another six months before I hit on exactly what was disappointing me about London's dining scene, and it was in the last place you might have expected: Paris.Long considered to have fallen behind London as a culinary trendsetter, the French capital is viewed condescendingly by all but the most informed of foodies and Francophiles on this side of the Channel as a teacher we've outgrown. They will point to crummy tourist-trap brasseries, overblown haute cuisine and McDonald's at the Louvre as evidence of its dramatic fall from grace. And where it does succeed, it is still playing catch-up, poor thing, they will simper. The truth is, here in London, we have nothing to learn from Paris any more.On an early autumn night a few weeks ago, however, I found myself in east Paris, in the rough and ready 20th arrondissement, receiving what felt like a re-education in dining out. A French friend had recommended Roseval, a new restaurant run by talented young chefs Michael Greenwold, a 28-year-old Brit, and Simone Tondo, a 24-year-old Sardinian, that has become an instant hit since its July opening.An unassuming little corner plot, Roseval seats around 20 in its pocket-square-sized dining-room. Roughly plastered white walls and simple wooden furniture allow the space to breathe but retain a homely feel. Unlike London, where the fashion for "no-bookings" means a meal now routinely begins with a two-hour wait, there's no queuing or names on clipboards, just plain old reservations. And no choosing what to eat, either ? like many Paris restaurants now, Roseval offers a set menu only, although you can ring ahead for special requirements. I was more than happy to cede control ? a welcome pause in the endless flow of decision-making, there's also something companionable about eating the same thing as everyone else at the table.That we were in playful but skilled hands was made clear by the starter: a salted ricotta soup with mackerel and heirloom tomatoes, prettily sprinkled with chive flowers and lemon breadcrumbs, took the bright flavours of a salad into unexpected forms. A dish of cod, tempered bone marrow, tangy wild sorrel, and pil-pil emulsion sitting atop soft, buttery potato was a featherweight delight, while 12-hour-cooked pork belly, finished on the grill, deglazed with Muscat grape juice and served with endive and gambas fair cured me of my indifference to that meat.After a perfect panna cotta topped with sweet, earthy fig, the final course of almond ice-cream, cloaked in crumbs of olive-oil cake and 28-month-aged pecorino and spiked with wild blackberries was a fitting summation of the chefs' facility with vivid combinations and lightness of touch. With each course, Greenwold and Tondo zipped back and forth from their basement kitchen to present the dish to diners.It was a great meal by any measure, but at a prix fixe of ?35 (just shy of ￡28), it was jaw-dropping. With a rather indulgent wine choice, we knocked the price up to nearer ￡40 a head, but it still felt like a steal for something genuinely special. Shuffling into the night, buoyed by a glass of dessert wine on the house as we waited at the bar for a cloudburst to ease, I reflected on what the same sum might have bought me in London. My burger and kitchen roll with a few more cocktails on the side? A couple of decent courses, provided you opt for the house wine, in Soho?Before the Olympics, in a last-minute sales pitch for the city, Boris Johnson boasted that London had more Michelin-starred restaurants than Paris ? though it's odd that, when those stars were more plentiful on the Continent, they connoted fussy soft furnishings and overwrought food, whereas now they are used as hard evidence that Brits do it better. No matter ? for the vast majority of people, comparisons at that high-falutin level are about as relevant as whether you should buy Chanel or Burberry.You can, of course, eat fantastically well for rather a lot of money in London ? and for very little, if you go frill-free. It's finding something in the middle that's not mediocre which is the problem. If you're neither a restaurant critic nor exceptionally wealthy, just someone in gainful employment who'd like to go out for a properly good, interesting meal without breaking the ￡50 ceiling, London is a tricky prospect. If you're not crazy about inane gimmicks or gentrified fast food, it can be quite depressing.Paris, meanwhile, is full of possibilities. Happily for its denizens, Roseval is not a bargainous aberration, but typical of a local, independent restaurant scene founded on the talents of a fresh generation of young chefs, many of whom are not French, but have cut their teeth in some of the city's most creative kitchens and are now boldly striking out alone with their first ventures. Yes, there is also a clutch of trendy burger and steak joints, but they aren't setting the tone. Meg Zimbeck, editor of the Paris by Mouth restaurant blog, cites the recently opened Abri and the reopened Vivant Table, both of which have Japanese chefs, alongside Roseval as her top picks of the new season.Common features include addresses in scruffier parts of town (but we're talking mainly the 10th and 20th arrondissements here, not the back end of the banlieues), low-key decor and a deliberately relaxed environment ? all of which mean they can offer inventive dishes and pristine produce at a ridiculously fair price."I still think that one can eat better in Paris than almost anywhere else in the world, but the action is no longer happening at the haute-cuisine level," explains Zimbeck. "Chefs who have interned at Michelin-starred restaurants are now performing on smaller, more personal stages where they can innovate and use ingredients that go beyond foie gras, truffle and turbot. The calibre of lunch that you can have in Paris for ?25 is unmatched anywhere in the world."Youthful, dynamic and international in outlook, the scene is miles away from the aforementioned caricature of Parisian cooking over here. When I call Greenwold, to ask if he and Tondo will share their insider perspective on the contemporary Paris scene with a Londoner, he seems surprised: "I just didn't think anyone knew much about what's going on over here," says the Oxfordshire-raised chef. "I see articles about Paris in the food and travel sections of British papers, but I don't feel there's been that acknowledgement of what's been happening here."I mention that the most recent face of Parisian dining is expat Brit Rachel Khoo, who had TV audiences drooling over her mismatched crockery, vintage dresses and her own, not especially exciting, "takes" on French cooking. "Is she a chef?" asks Tondo. "Well, she describes herself as a food 'creative'… I think she opened a pop-up restaurant in her flat," I offer. Tondo rolls his eyes.So though we clearly love a bit of Amelie-esque Paris, when it comes to bistronomie ? the move away from classic haute cuisine towards a more experimental style of cooking, offered in casual "neo-bistro" surroundings and at more affordable prices ? we have been pretty slow on the uptake.The seeds were sown by chefs such as Pascal Barbot as far back as 2000, but it found its full definition in the mid-noughties. In 2006, French-born Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte brought daring reinventions of bistro fare and a slug of rock'n'roll glamour with his highly acclaimed Chateaubriand (Greenwold's training ground and currently 15th in the World's 50 Best Restaurants list). Gregory Marchand, returning from stints in New York and London, where he worked closely with Jamie Oliver ? whose influence may be detected as much in his fashion sense as his approach to food ? opened the insanely popular Frenchie in 2009.Beyond a commitment to quality, simplicity and accessibility, the rules of bistronomie are pretty much that there ain't no rules ? creativity and individuality are its watchwords. It's this ethos that has encouraged the Roseval generation to forge ahead with their personal visions, diversifying the scene and maintaining its dynamism.All this flies in the face of accounts of the demise of Parisian gastronomy ? as recently as 2009, US journalist Michael Steinberger's award-winning Au Revoir to All That presented a seemingly persuasive argument that the decline of the country's food, yoked to the offering in Paris, mirrored France's dwindling political and economic status. Although purporting to be as much eulogy as elegy, Steinberger's tome drove another nail into the metaphorical coffin in which international media seemed happy to inter Paris's culinary prowess.Yet Steinberger's argument has not dated especially well in these recessionary times. Mocking the French distrust of free-market economics and globalisation, he also drew a direct link between the "vast amounts of wealth created in London", Spain's "flourishing" economy and their rise as gastronomic powerhouses, fuelled by diners with deep pockets. But if (temporarily) booming economies spurred a certain kind of innovation, the new genre of dining that was being created in Paris was better placed to weather a downturn. Increasingly, it looks as though the French were wise to have scaled things down in the dining-room while others were ramping them up.Paris's latest clutch of restaurant openings also shows up the fallacy of another broader claim often made about France, that the country's labour laws and bureaucracy strangle entrepreneurial spirit. I ask Greenwold whether it would have been any easier to open a restaurant in London. Though he admits the bureaucracy was maddening, it seems to galvanise the city's cheffing community (friends in the business obligingly lent Greenwold and Tondo their business plan to copy). And the bottom line is money: "We could do what we wanted here for a lot less. Even in east London I can't imagine we could have opened this for less than half a million; here we did it for 150k. Our rent is expensive by Parisian standards, but cheap for London. We'd love to do something in London, but we'd need serious investment." The figures go a long way to explaining differences in the capitals' dining options. In Paris, you can go small-scale and do OK. In London, mere survival requires something very commercial. Something like a burger on a piece of kitchen roll, perhaps.Not long after my Paris trip, I speak to Luc Dubanchet, the food critic and former Gault-Millau guide editor who 10 years ago, bored with the capital's staid restaurant scene, founded Omnivore, a food publication set up in explicit opposition to the Michelin Guide and the stuffy approach to eating he felt it encouraged. Since then, the magazine has fought passionately to define and promote the new wave of jeune cuisine simmering away in Paris.I ask Dubanchet if he is pleased with how far the city has come. "Well, I was right that we could do better ? so that's good," he laughs. "Paris is great now; you can feel something there which is about excitement rather than history and Michelin stars. But it's fragile. Everywhere, not only in France, you have to fight for something new all the time."It is in a spirit of enquiry and exchange that Dubanchet launched the Omnivore "World Tour", a series of events across the globe connecting local chefs with their counterparts from Paris and around Europe for a programme of dinners and masterclasses. The Roseval boys are among those now involved: Tondo showed me a large Babushka tattoo on his arm that commemorated their stint at a recent Moscow event, confirming the youthful, irreverent nature of the gatherings.I ask whether either of them might be acquiring some London-themed body art any time soon. "I think so," says Greenwold. "I don't know how the kind of thing we're doing over here will go down to be honest. The [east London-based chefs] Young Turks are part of Omnivore and I know that they've got quite a lot of attention in London with some of their combinations. James [Lowe] does a dish that's aged steak cut into a tartare with an oyster emulsion. It's really good, I'm not knocking it as a dish, but if you look at what's been going on there, it's not that out there. If people think that's crazy in London, they're going to think that the kind of stuff Inaki does, and maybe we do sometimes… well, they're going to think it's fucking weird." Perhaps we're not quite the cutting-edge sophisticates we think we are.Dubanchet is a big fan of a good hamburger, so he has no sympathy for my kitchen-roll-related woes in London. But he is unimpressed when I tell him of a recent meal in Piccadilly's new Brasserie Zedel, the vast, Disney-esque repro French bistro that has been serving up competent oeuf mayonnaises and choucroute at chain-restaurant prices to the general approval of the city's critics. "There are so many French copies. Even here in France there are French copies. Why another one?" he sighs. "You have to be careful you don't get too complacent. Otherwise, you will wake up and find that you're, well, French."Ooh la la! The brightest young stars of Parisian cuisineAbriAlready a foodie favourite since opening last month. Japanese chef Katsuaki Okiyama turns out exquisite plates, such as potato soup with coffee and cardamom foam, in a low-fi setting. A prix fixe four-course lunch is ?22; six-course dinner ?38.50. Abri's excellent sandwiches, served all day, are fast becoming legendary too. 92 Rue du Faubourg-Poissonniere, 75010, tel: (00 33) 1 83 97 00 00ChatomatThe international pedigree of the young couple behind this diminutive restaurant (Victor is French, Alice Italo-Brasilo-French) makes for bright, thoroughly modern cooking in an unpretentious atmosphere befitting its Menilmontant location. Described as adorable by Le Figaro's redoubtable critic Francois Simon, dinner a la carte averages ?40. Closed lunch. 6 Rue Victor Letalle, 75020, tel: (00 33) 1 47 97 25 77Chez AlineAlthough strictly speaking not a restaurant, this is unlike any snack bar you'll have known. Housed in a former horsemeat butchers, Delphine Zampetti (aka Mrs Inaki Aizpitarte) turns out superlative sandwiches (from ?4.50) and a couple of plats du jour (?10). Try the rabbit baguette with sundried tomatoes or go old-school Parisian with a simple jambon-beurre. 85 Rue de la Roquette 75011, tel: (00 33) 1 43 71 90 75Restaurant Pierre Sang BoyerA finalist in the French equivalent of Masterchef, Korean-born Boyer opened a spot in trendy Oberkampf this summer, where imaginative but polished cooking rules: veal tartare with figs; gambas with aubergine caviar and frozen banana slices. Trust us, it's good. The four-course prix fixe is ?35. Sadly, no reservations are taken. 55 Rue Oberkampf, 75011, no phoneVivant TableThe bistro formerly known as Vivant has reopened with an upgrade on the menu as well as the name, thanks to two skilled Japanese chefs, Atsumi Sota and Masaki Yamamoto. Early whispers describe the food as "mind-blowing", but there have been quibbles over the prices ? ?45 for the fixe ? which shows the value Parisians expect. A bar a vins opens next door soon. 43 Rue des Petites Ecuries, 75011, tel: (00 33) 1 42 46 43 55?A brief glimpse of the former Libertines frontman's tattooed torso and scarred belly reveal the ravages of his 32 years. He quickly replaces his T-shirt, which had been inside-out, and begins posing moodily for photographs, in a room littered with strange objects: taxidermy, antique furniture and canvases. Is this for a music video? Has he got an album coming out? No. It may look pretty rock'n'roll, but it is, in fact, the start of Doherty's bid to be taken seriously as a fine artist.Jumpy like a cat, Doherty shows me around London's Cob Gallery, where his first UK solo art exhibition (he showed work at the Chappe gallery in Paris in 2008) will open next week. Most of the artwork is yet to arrive, but nine canvases are scattered around the black-walled, underground space in Camden. The paintings are spare, with lots of white space showing through linear outlines, glued-on paper and Doherty's spidery scrawl. Their unifying feature, apart from the artist's signature, is that they have been painted in blood. Doherty's blood. It is a technique he refers to as "arterial splatter": an ex-girlfriend's father coined the phrase. The streaky, brown-ish marks, by turns thick (as if he's just swished a bloodied thumb across the surface) and bespattered (he squirts his blood from a syringe) are unmistakably human.A further 20 new blood-paintings will be shipped in from Paris, where the singer now lives, to form the top half of a collaboration between the curators of Cob and another gallery, Guts for Garters. The show is called On Blood: A Portrait of the Artist. The first part of the title refers to his blood paintings, and the latter half to a decision by curator Cassie Beadle to exhibit a selection of strange curiosities, trinkets and detritus hoarded by Doherty over the years.Painting is something of a collective process for Doherty. A "fucking accurate" portrait of his friend Peter Wolfe, from the band Wolfman and the Side-Effects, was drawn by his friend Alize Meurisse, and Doherty has added a splatter or two and some song lyrics into the mix. An early portrait of The Libertines, which the artist modestly disparages, has been added to, not only by his eight-year-old son Astile, but also by his good friend, the late Amy Winehouse, who drew a small self-portrait in her own blood."She was on the phone to her dad when she did that. She said, 'Dad, I'm with Pete and he's making me draw with my blood!' He didn't like me much, her dad."The actress Charlotte Gainsbourg added a sketch of a house to a painting called Leet Strife ? a less pretentious title than "Street Life", he says.Doherty explains that for his newest works he has been using watercolours. He says it is the only way he can begin to replicate the "emulsive, wishy-washy residue on the neck of a crack-cocaine bottle". Alarmingly, he then reaches into his pocket and pulls out a broken crack-pipe ("It's an old one, I promise") and holds the glass up to the light so I can see the silvery remains of the drugs."Look at the colours, the oranges. You see that there? You can only get that with watercolours."Marc Quinn made wonderful sculptures from his own frozen blood, but is there something a bit faddy and pretentious about painting with it? I suggest that the self-harm element might be rather gruesome, but Cob curator Victoria Williams has an intriguing take on it. "It's about breaking down the boundaries between yourself and your art. I don't think it's destructive, it's quite giving actually," she says. "It's certainly not about gore."Later in the day, the curators, Doherty and his manager are getting ready to drive a van to Wiltshire, to the mansion the artist used to rent from Lord Cardigan but vacated after the roof fell in. There is some anxiety, Doherty having arrived over an hour late, that they will not get to rifle through the storage container there until after dark. Doherty is rather apprehensive about what they will find."Everything flooded when the roof fell in," Doherty says. "Then it froze, then it flooded again when it melted. We stuck everything into storage but lots of it was ruined. Have you ever seen mould that looks all fluffy and white like snow?"I haven't. Nor have I met Doherty before, although he insists that I have: that famous face, his dishevelled hair now touched with grey, eyes outlined by lack of sleep and a smirking, disarming smile.The curators have quite a task ahead, sifting through the piles of "silks, bones, leathers, skulls, palettes ? what's that thing you put canvases on? ? oh yeah, easels, frames, boots, laces, wigs, mannequins..." that are, apparently, Doherty's passion.His proclivity for hoarding leads him to talk about his infamous on-again, off-again relationship with the supermodel Kate Moss, from whom he finally separated in 2007."Kate used to collect elephants, so I'd buy them for her wherever I went," he says. "When we split up she destroyed all my stuff, but she didn't destroy my elephants. Because I couldn't get over her for a while I just kept buying elephants and now I've got a huge elephant collection for sale. I might post them anonymously to her as a wedding present."Despite Moss having married her long-term boyfriend, Jamie Hince, last July, her name is rarely printed without mention of her tempestuous relationship with Doherty. The singer's penchant for heroin and crack-cocaine led to the end of their relationship and the model's association with him dented her reputation and helped to earn her the epithet "Cocaine Kate". Moss publicly split from Doherty after footage of her allegedly taking cocaine at a studio where he was recording with Babyshambles was sold to the press. Prosecutors decided not to charge the supermodel, in the absence of forensic or direct eyewitness evidence, but Moss lost contracts with H&M, Burberry and Chanel before admitting herself to rehab.I ask Doherty if he has any regrets about the demise of their relationship. He is silent for a long time: "I suppose I must have, but I was a bit unhinged at that time," he shrugs. "The drugs. The thing is, she knew from day one when we began our relationship that I was using very heavily. She knew that. So, you can't suddenly turn around and say, 'you've got to stop all that'. I do have regrets about Kate, but I wouldn't want to talk to you about them. I'd only talk to a highly skilled doctor with large amounts of morphine and a hypnotherapist. And a small monkey."He laughs and then lets out a scream before putting his finger in his mouth. He has cut it on the broken crack-pipe in his pocket. He bleeds only slightly, but it's a sign that we need to talk about something else. I joke that I've got some paper in case he wants to make a drawing. He declines, the mood having dropped, and for a moment the connection between his art and his well-documented self-harming hangs in the air.The show is a chance for Doherty to revitalise his image in the wake of his many falls from grace. In 2003 the singer was ejected from The Libertines, at the height of their success, by his one-time best friend Carl Barat, thanks to his increasing dependence on Class-A drugs. Doherty went on to front Babyshambles, with whom he released two albums, and also produced a solo record called Grace/Wastelands in 2009, but his celebrity reputation has always rather eclipsed his music. In 2010 The Libertines reformed for appearances at the Reading and Leeds Festivals ? but, as the release of Roger Sargent's film about the band's revival, The Libertines: There Are No Innocent Bystanders, released next month, reveals, with Doherty the appeal of the story is usually greater than the sound.Doherty has been in prison three times, had at least 15 court appearances, a conviction for burglary, more than 26 drugs charges and is currently on bail for cocaine possession. I ask how he is managing his addictions."I've stopped injecting," he says, giving credit for this improvement to a new girlfriend, whose name he decides not to disclose, but whose parents he is meeting at their Oxford home this evening."The only way I see myself in a serious relationship is if I am toning it down a bit. When you're banging up all day you can't really have someone else in your life, especially if she's an English rose. I wouldn't let her touch anything, I just wouldn't." Doherty tells me he is being treated at a walk-in clinic for users and is currently on a pharmaceutical opiate called Subutex ("Posh and Becks, as they call it"), which "doesn't get you high" but suppresses withdrawal symptoms.Gone is the implant which he had in his stomach to block the effects of heroin. "Jesus Christ, thank God them days are over. That was when I was up in front of a judge every five minutes and he was saying, 'get clean or go to jail'". Doherty had quite a hard time in prison."I got on OK in Pentonville [in 2006] because it was kind of my local, if you like. A lot of people wanted to get me, but more wanted to do me a favour. In Wayland last year it was lads from east rather than north London, and loads of other places. People I didn't know." As soon as he arrived, he says, people started getting at him, requesting money and drugs for protection. "I didn't have any money, I didn't have any drugs. One guy said he was going to stick a fork up my arse. I threw my telly at him because I thought that would get me put in isolation."Instead, they moved Doherty to another wing where he found an ally in his cellmate who "didn't like bullies, basically". Between them they managed to fend off the attention. "A lot of those guys are just scared little boys inside. If you stand your ground they back down."When Doherty speaks it comes across that the constant danger, the addictions, and the hell-raising parties all stem from his wish to emulate the bohemian ideal. This was clear in his Libertines days, when the band's red jackets and the presentation of Doherty as a kind of Nick Drake of our times ? a new romantic, a poet and a rebel ? were still doing their work.A decade on, the figure who describes quite eloquently and earnestly his passion for a time when men wore smoking jackets and when drugs and art were synonymous, seems deflated. I hope that the art will be a positive step for Doherty; his enthusiasm for it recalls the old Pete ? the showman and the optimist."I have a distinct memory of friends I had at school whose parents were, for want of a better word, bohemian. That was the kind of England that I thought I should have belonged to," he says. Instead Doherty grew up in a series of barracks, the son of a Catholic Army Major, and received little encouragement for his creative pursuits."My family used to say, point-blank, 'We'd support you if we thought you could sing, or we thought you could write songs, but you can't'."Last year his widely publicised estrangement from his father ended after a good meeting at his little sister's wedding. "The family was all there together and I think my father was a little bit surprised at how compos mentis I was. He turned around and said that I was welcome to come home for Christmas. That was the first time in six years he's said that."Repeated flayings in the tabloid press from 2005 onwards ? his fans loving his Keith Richards-esque behaviour, his detractors revelling in his destruction ? took its toll on Doherty. Never mind the fact that he courted it to start with. Three years ago he upped sticks to Paris to avoid the relentless attention. He loves it there, his own modern-day bohemia."The media circus got a bit twisted when I was in London. It became a bit of a joke, really. In Paris, they're so serious I can take myself really seriously too. I can get really morbid without people telling me to cheer up." He still has a loyal fanbase and he hasn't abandoned his music. He has already played a couple of secret gigs in London this year.Despite this retreat from public life, Doherty hit the headlines earlier this week when the South African supermodel Lindi Hingston told the South African Sunday Times that she had given birth to his baby six weeks ago. Pictures of the little girl, who has been named Aisling, appeared in the paper. There is a distinct Doherty pout to the baby's features. When I ask the man himself about the pictures, he claims not to know anything about the press coverage."I'm really surprised she's done that [talked to a newspaper]," he says rather sadly, looking to his manager for confirmation and support. "The little girl was two months premature. I said I'd try to be there for the birth. You know what, I don't want to talk about that." So she is your daughter?"Yeah, she's mine," he says, adding: "We're using the baby's blood in one of the pictures". I'm almost certain he's joking. Almost.On Blood: A Portrait of the Artist, Cob Gallery, London NW1 (cobgallery.com/ gutsforgarters.com) 26 February to 4 March?A callow English textile manufacturer, Stephen Wraysford, played by Eddie Redmayne (My Week with Marilyn), distractedly whittles wood as the river gurgles by. A Frenchwoman, Isabelle Azaire (Clemence Poesy, aka Fleur Delacour in the Harry Potter films), sits poised and erect in the shade. She is the young French wife of Wraysford's host, a local merchant. The honk of geese can be heard through the reeds, although the soundtrack promised by the script ("the hum of bees... wasps feeding hungrily on a tree weighted with overripe pears") is nowhere to be heard. Also not pictured: an "interminable heat". It's a cloudy, overcast day."The thing to remember is that in never rains in Hungary in July," a jacketed cameraman wryly notes as crew members scurry around uncoiling cables and replanting foliage. Presently, the rain begins to patter again, pooling mud in walkways. The squelch of boots can be heard all around. Given the story presently being assembled on this film set ? one of love, but also the glutinous gore of trench warfare ? these conditions are, in a way, crudely apt.It is summer 2011, and in a wood on the edge of Budapest, it is day 33 of the 43-day shoot for Birdsong. The crew on this BBC/Working Title adaptation of Sebastian Faulks' bestseller set in and around the First World War are working hard to recreate the France of both the narrative strands on which screenwriter Abi Morgan (The Hour, The Iron Lady) has focused: drowsy Amiens in 1910, and the horror of the Western Front in 1916. Morgan opted early on to leave out the novel's third element, a near-contemporary depiction of Wraysford's granddaughter. k"The modern-day stuff was a brilliant framing device," acknowledges the writer, who is currently attracting fresh acclaim for her script for artist-turned-director Steve McQueen's Oscar-tipped film Shame (reviewed in main paper). "But we decided that for the economy of a TV script, and because we were working within two 90-minute episodes, we wanted to focus on the intensity of before and after the love affair between Stephen and Isabelle."Hence, "before", we have the elegance of today's picnic scene, all fine food and even finer wardrobes. In her jam-packed trailer, a couple of hundred yards from the Danube, costume designer Charlotte Walter rifles through rail after rail of Edwardian-era clothing, painstakingly sourced in Paris and London, and some recreated from photographs in her own family's albums. "Stephen arrives from England dressed in greys. But soon he's wearing cream suits ? a young woman in France can have that effect," she smiles.Similarly, for "after", when Wraysford is a battle-scarred captain in the infantry, staring down the barrel of the battle that will produce the worst single-day casualties in British military history, the producers worked hard on ensuring the soldiers' uniforms looked the part. Hobnail boots came from Poland, leather-capped officers' wristwatches were fashioned by the props department, and woollen shirts by the dozen were "pre-distressed". Walter applied such volumes of fake gore to the outfits that, "I had so much blood under my fingernails I looked like a mass murderer." Over the course of filming the battle scenes, Redmayne wore through eight uniforms.Walter also located an original, officer-style greatcoat from Burberry, and was granted access to its archives ? a process eased by the fact that Redmayne has modelled for the brand. Advised by military experts, Walter and her small team also created their own regimental insignia, to avoid any criticism from First World War experts and to be sensitive to veterans' groups. Advisers from the Imperial War Museum have offered pointers on soldiers' movements and drill, and medical experts have been on hand "to tell us what 90 per cent burns would look like", says the venture's producer, Lynn Horsford.With equal attention to detail, trenches were excavated by the production team in a sunflower field a few miles away. The deep spying and attack tunnels dug under the battlefields ? in which Faulks sets much of his wartime action ? have been ingeniously replicated in a nearby studio.All of which, it seems, was easier to do in Hungary than France. Yes, concedes Horsford, "It's sad that we're not in France," but as ITV found when they shot Julian Fellowes' upcoming Titanic here the month before the BBC production, "you get a tax break" by filming in the former eastern bloc state. Plus, Horsford adds, some streets in Hungary are time capsules. "It's doubled for [old world] France many times," she says ? most recently for the Guy de Maupassant adaptation Bel Ami, starring Robert Pattinson, out in March. Furthermore, director Philip Martin (Wallander and the Bafta-winning Mo, about Mo Mowlam) is on familiar territory: he shot 2008's Einstein and Eddington here with David Tennant.The scene being filmed today is the moment where Faulks' hero and heroine make their first fleeting, physical contact. In the formal, stuffy, stuffed-shirt atmosphere of the Azaire household, Stephen and Isabelle's growing feelings for each other have hitherto been played out in stolen glances and tremulous gulps. But as they boat along the river in that "interminable heat", their ankles graze together. It's an electrifying and ominous moment, and not just because of the sign we see on the edge of the river: we are in the departement de la Somme."These scenes between Clemence and Eddie are all about the danger their characters are walking into," offers cinematographer Julian Court. "And by putting them under the trees and using the shadows and having them almost silhouetted, we're trying to visually suggest that jeopardy.""I want to recalibrate what is sexual," Martin adds. "We want to take the audience back to a time when a touch was an extremely dangerous and provocative and erotic thing."For Isabelle and Stephen, that touch of skin on skin lets the genie out of the bottle. Their affair is incendiary, entirely based around explosive passion. In one memorable passage in the book, Faulks writes in graphic detail of the "sex act" (to use the normal newspaper euphemism) the Englishman performs on the Frenchwoman."As a young man reading the book, for me that was an incredibly erotic scene," chuckles Redmayne between takes. The actor, now 30, was an adolescent at the time he read the 1993 novel, "and a lot of my friends were blown away by it. We have a responsibility to this book, but in some ways doing that scene [properly] is also a massive responsibility."Poesy had no time to duck that responsibility ? she and Redmayne filmed the scene on her first day on set. Was that a deliberate choice on her part? "No, no, no, no," the Parisian actress, 29, says emphatically. "I looked at the schedule and I was, like, 'Really, are we going there already?' But then there was that thought of, OK, well at least it's out of the way. And of course it wasn't ? we had to go back to it every single week because we never finished it that day!"But it needed to be done properly. And it's weird because I try to avoid those scenes. I had a policy against things like that as I had a bad experience." (Aged 18, Poesy appeared in a French film in which, against her better judgement, she shot a topless scene.) "But I think every actress says that, then you grow old, then you really don't give a shit."'Birdsong' is the epic book that, for almost 20 years, was the failed film. As Geoffrey Macnab detailed in a March 2009 feature in The Independent, a screen adaptation of the novel by Faulks ? deputy editor of this newspaper when it launched in 1990 ? has been a slow train coming. "Over the past 16 years," Macnab wrote, "hundreds of thousands of pounds have been spent on commissioning scripts, optioning and re-optioning the source material, hiring lawyers and scouting locations. There are no particular heroes or villains from this epic process. This isn't a cautionary Hollywood parable about some faceless studio calling the shots. It's an everyday tale of the British film industry, where projects not infrequently spiral off into some development hinterland whence they struggle to emerge."Iain Softley, Sam Mendes, Rupert Wyatt, Joe Wright; Ewan McGregor, Ralph Fiennes, Damian Lewis, Paddy Considine, Eva Green ? a host of directors and actors have been involved with various attempts to film the 500-page book. Abi Morgan reckons she's the 11th writer to attempt a screenplay (and she's had more than one crack at it). Poesy says that even she had previously considered the project ? when she was clearing out her email inbox last year she found an old version of the script that she'd been sent.In most key respects, Birdsong as a movie is a no-brainer ? as Macnab put it, it could be "a film that, if it lives up to its potential, should carry us all away with its sweeping historical narrative and tragic romantic undertow". So what, I ask Horsford, was the problem? "It's a big question," she smiles. As she observes, "everybody adores this book", but no satisfactory script for a single film ever materialised. "It was either too expensive, or too unwieldy." (Spoiler alert: readers who have not had the pleasure of the book may wish to skip the rest of this paragraph.) "It has a very unconventional trajectory, and it doesn't have a conventional happy ending. So you can imagine the reaction in Hollywood: 'Hang on a second ? he doesn't get the girl?'"The most recent attempt to realise a big-screen version was headed by director Rupert Wyatt (Rise of the Planet of the Apes). He got as far as scouting locations in France, and his producing partner Damian Lewis ? too old to play Wraysford but with decent bankability ? was in the frame to portray one of the other officers. But when that too collapsed, Morgan and Juliette Howell at Brit-film powerhouse Working Title had a rethink. Writer and producer reasoned that, rather than trying to shoehorn the big, tricksy novel into a single film, it might make more sense to do it, as Horsford puts it, "on a bigger canvas, over a longer period of time ? two 90-minute [television episodes]. And the moment that decision was made, everything fell into place."Morgan found that the story was further unlocked for her by the 2009 passing of the 111-year-old veteran known as the "last fighting Tommy". "With the death of Harry Patch, I wanted to ensure that the passion and the poignancy and the historical significance of Birdsong was brought to the screen and to another audience," says the writer. "I felt very strongly that they're a generation that are no longer around to tell that story. Sebastian Faulks had done it so brilliantly and it was just a wonderful opportunity to ensure that that appalling war and the nature of the conditions they fought in was documented."Martin shares this desire to give the historical resonance of the century-old conflict a contemporary relevance: as well as making his cast watch documentary footage of the Somme in 1916, he screened for them Restrepo, the Afghanistan conflict documentary made by photographer Tim Hetherington, who was killed last year in Libya."You see dust being kicked up by horses' hooves [in the old footage]," says the director, "and I'd always had an image of the First World War that was very wet. But suddenly you were seeing that it was very hot and dusty and much more like Helmand province than just rain-drenched, muddy trenches. That really informed the way we wanted to do it. We wanted to go into the research ? then emerge from that research with a new way of looking at the War."Regarding the casting, Redmayne was top of Horsford and Martin's list, having impressed them in the 2008 TV adaptation of Tess of the D'Urbervilles. Says the producer, "We were trying to find an actor who could convincingly go from a young, rather naive innocent 20-year old to someone completely different ? over the span of the war it's as if he's aged another 20 years."For the French roles, Martin sought French actors, "so that Stephen's connection would be a real one, if you like", suggests the director. "Clemence is an incredible actress, and she has a haunting, mesmerising beauty that [as Isabelle] you feel she could capture Stephen's heart.""She's just luminous on screen," adds Horsford ? with the added bonus that, via her appearances in the Harry Potter franchise and Gossip Girl, Poesy "has quite a wide following. She appeals to perhaps a younger audience. I know we're going to get the literary intelligentsia watching because of the book. But on BBC1 you want a wider audience. And Clemence has that scope."Poesy, long a part-time resident in London, says that even though Birdsong doesn't have the cultural presence in France that it does in the UK, she's well aware of its iconic importance to her British friends ? which made her protective over Isabelle. "I'd never fought for a character like that before 'cos I knew how my friends, especially the girls, were looking at her ? they were looking at her as very modern in her choices and who she is and the mystery that's left... That's what people love about Isabelle. So I really stood up for her quite a bit."For Redmayne, too, his character became precious. "Stephen is an isolated man, damaged as a kid, who is now being rewarded with love and passion for this woman. He's being opened. But Abi contrasts the two stories, the love and the war, so his stillness in the trenches isn't opaque. You see where it comes from. There's almost a mystery thriller quality to it ? how has this man come to where he is?"On the evidence of episode one, in all the right ways Birdsong doesn't compete with the First World War as epically depicted in Steven Spielberg's new film War Horse. It couldn't ? the latter is a big-budget Hollywood blockbuster ? but neither should it. This is a story of love, and of friendship (between Wraysford and the men under his command, notably tunneller Jack Firebrace). Under Martin's acute direction, stillness and silence ? of the courtship, of the tunnels ? say more than whizz-bang action. For all the widescreen carnage of the Western Front, Birdsong is a story thick with claustrophobic emotion.Redmayne, for his part, went as far as he could into the research. He and Joseph Mawle (who plays Firebrace) made a recce to the Flanders battlefields. They were shown into First World War tunnels that had only recently been discovered. Since they were dug into chalk, as soon as a light was shone on them, "it was like being in an igloo". Deep underground, their guide showed them a patch of wall. There was a poem written in pencil, "as if it was yesterday. It said: 'If in this place you are detained/ don't look around you all in vain/ but cast your net and you will find/ that every cloud is silver lined... still.' It was extraordinary," the actor marvels. "We were the fifth people down there in 100 years. And there it was, hope in the most horrific of circumstances."For Redmayne ? whose next project is another French-set drama of passion and conflict, Les Miserables ? making Birdsong was a gruelling endeavour requiring deep-down commitment. "We were trying to make something on the scale that the story deserves. And doing it on a limited budget. So everything was pushed to the limit."Now," he smiles, "obviously that's a millionth of what anyone had to go through in the reality of the War. And it was useful to remember that on set," he concludes with a laugh, "when I was about to go, 'Hey, where's my chair?'"'Birdsong' airs on BBC1 in late January?His report, Women on Boards, certainly had an impact. The past 12 months have seen 37 women appointed to non-executive directorships (NEDs) of Britain's top 100 companies, including Sara Weller, the former Argos boss who joined Lloyds Banking Group's board, and Stacey Cartwright, Burberry's finance director who now sits on GlaxoSmithKline's board.In all, 15 companies have reached Lord Davies' target three years early, and a third of FTSE 100 firms already have 20 per cent or more women.However, the rate of change is too slow to see women occupying one in four seats on boards by 2015, according to research from recruiter Norman Broadbent. It expects Britain to hit that target in 2017, two years late.Mentoring schemes have sprung up in an attempt to redress the balance. The Glass Ladder programme, which is run by the headhunter Bird & Co, has so far linked 32 female prospective board members with current FTSE 100 non-execs, and six graduates have been appointed to their first NED position.Here, some of Britain's newest NEDs look back on their first few months in the boardroom.Margherita Della ValleGroup finance director, VodafoneMs Della Valle joined Centrica's board in January last year. "Centrica has a very high-profile board [including CBI president Sir Roger Carr] so I was a little anxious about my contribution at the start. But I found it very inclusive, which helped me overcome any shyness."I have really enjoyed my first year as a non-executive director; it's exceeded my expectations. There has been a lot of cross-fertilisation between what I do in my day job at Vodafone, where I often prepare material for the board and sometimes present to the audit committee, and at Centrica, when I'm on the other side of the fence."It's helped me to understand what board members want to see and why they ask certain questions."I think the pace of change isaccelerating in boardrooms ?more gender equality is just aquestion of time. The women on boards issue is so high profile at the moment that it's giving the right amount of pressure to boards. But we shouldn't forget about it now or in two years' time ? if people stop talking about it, the pressure will go away."My advice to other women who want a non-executive position is to put yourself forward and participate in the many initiatives that now exist around women and boards,involving mentoring and networking forums. In my own career I've been very lucky and never faceddiscrimination, but that's not everyone's experience."Take every opportunity and don't be concerned about the impact it has on the day job. It creates value on both sides and companies should encourage these types of experience."Liz HewittTrustee, Cancer Research UKMs Hewitt, 55, was director of corporate affairs at Smith & Nephew and is now a trustee of Cancer Research UK. She wasappointed as a non-executive director on theboard of FTSE 250-listed sterilemedical supplier Synergy Health last September."I don't think I've ever experienced discrimination in my career, but I've experienced selection ? missing out on positions because I haven't had the appropriate experience, and that's something a lot of women have faced which is now changing."Back when I was a student atUniversity College London in 1974, the male-to-female ratio of newundergraduates was 10 to one."Then when I joined the London office of Arthur Andersen in 1977,the graduate intake was 106, of which only seven were women. Now many more women are coming through corporate life and have gained theappropriate experience for roles in the boardroom."There are lots of ways to gainexperience for board positions."For many years I took oncharitable board work alongsidemy main job, and was a NED for an NHS trust."It was ideal experience forworking at Synergy. Charity andNGO boards have many of the same issues as company boards, with the same corporate governance, remuneration and audit issues, and similar financial issues over cost control, cash flow and value for money."For both the company board and the new women involved, there's a genuine business benefit from diversity. The vast majority of purchasing decisions in consumer companies, for example, are made by women, so it therefore makes eminent sense for them to have women on the board."It's just as important as havingthe views of people from different nationalities. It helps to reflect the marketplace."Helen OwersChief development officer, Thomson Reuters ProfessionalMs Owers, 48, was appointed a non-executive director of PZ Cussons on 1 January. "The idea that I should take on a non-executive role came from Thomson Reuters as part of their senior executive development plan. They believe that working on other boards helps what you bring to the company you're working in. So I joined the Glass Ladder mentorship programme, and worked with Kathleen O'Donovon [a non-exec at Prudential, Trinity Mirror and ARM Holdings] for a year. We worked on everything from corporate governance to getting your CV in shape for NED roles, and networking with the right headhunters."I also worked with David Tyler, chairman of Sainsbury's and Logica, as part of The FTSE 100 Cross-Company Mentoring Programme, which puts women together with chairmen and women to help them prepare for non-exec roles."He taught me that you have to be very creative when applying for roles ? my industry, for example, doesn't fit with the fast-moving consumer goods that PZ Cussons works on, but most of my work is with emerging markets and that's where a lot of their business is."Also, where applying for an executive job involves thinking about what you've done in the past, for an NED it's more about the skills you can deliver to the board and the company. I found it quite a different way of thinking."My boardroom preparation took up a lot of evenings and weekends, and obviously I had my job too as well as my family ? I have one daughter. Luckily I have a natural ability to juggle multiple things. It is harder [as a woman] but I never waste time. I never watch movies whilst flying abroad for business, but work on my laptop and iPad."I found my first board meeting incredibly insightful. I realised the quality of direction a board can give a company ? it was very collegiate, but also challenging ? people really did speak up."The Davies report definitely had an impact on pushing more women on to the candidate roster for NED roles. I think that's hugely important. Companies want boards to challenge them, and having people with different backgrounds really helps with that."?Robert Burke, one time fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, meanwhile, argued that until the Noughties, the looks of the forthcoming season were communicated via fashion editors and buyers who attended the international collections staged behind closed doors. He could have added that all of those present were required to sign forms promising that they would not pass on information or images from the shows in question that might in any way aid and abet any copycats. How times have changed.Brands from Prada to Topshop allow instant access to their shows (the latter recently announced it would live stream its spring/summer 2013 collection only days from now for the first time; Prada has done so for the past two seasons). And so, anyone can catch a glimpse of clothes that won't go on sale for months and at the same time as the privileged few. Burberry has taken this concept one step further. At London Fashion Week six months ago, it tweeted looks from its forthcoming collection even before they made the runway.Only a dinosaur would argue that mass exposure of the most innovative fashion is a bad thing. Far from it, it enriches and inspires. That said, and I declare a vested interest here, the raison d'etre of covering fashion in individual titles ? newspapers, magazines and online publications included ? lies in the way it is edited. The savvy consumer ? and the number of these is ever increasing ? doesn't need to be told what to wear or how to wear it. That's just patronising. But there will always be trends and she (and indeed he) knows who to trust to identify these whether she wants to buy, browse or even just balk at them.?In the red corner, we have Burberry. This is a brand that upholds democracy with pride. With this in mind, the company staged what it described as the world's first-ever "tweetwalk", meaning that each look was available to its followers on Twitter ? they number more than half a million ? before it had even made it on to the catwalk. The show itself, meanwhile, was live-streamed and the collection sold online immediately after, an unprecedented move given the norm is to wait a full six months before any clothing for the forthcoming season is available.It will also, inevitably, influence the mood of the clothes. It is not uncommon for designers to show looks that are inspiring and aspirational and then to put together a selling collection behind the scenes for buyers to choose from. In this case, however, what we, the fashion audience, saw was what the Burberry customer will get. It's a smart move, as befits this spectacularly successful Great British name, whose embrace of digital technology is working.In the blue corner: Tom Ford. Among the world's most famous designers, Ford staged what is known as a salon collection to no more than around 150 carefully selected buyers and press. Ford also decided that he doesn't want any pictures and/or reviews of his clothing to appear until it goes on sale at the beginning of next year.Ultimately, each approach is intelligent. The fashion industry is a very broad church. The Burberry trench coat ? still the cash cow of the business ? is something that many women, and indeed men, of style see as a wardrobe staple. The Tom Ford woman, conversely, would rather be naked than wear a dress any other woman at the party might own. Neither Christopher Bailey, Burberry's creative director, nor Ford are stupid, of course, which accounts for the continuing buoyancy of their respective businesses despite polar opposite viewpoints and the hardest of times.?Luxe sportswear. Best seen at JW Anderson, where what looked like neoprene zip-fronted jackets were in fact made out of cotton sponge; Jonathan Saunders, where the bomber was crafted in holographic leather and silk; and Richard Nicoll: more zip-fronted jackets, parkas and oversized T-shirts in fabrics and colours designed to make a woman feel happy and at ease. At Tom Ford, techno stretch cycling shorts (yes, cycling shorts) were worn with black patent leather. Fierce.Holes. Your clothes must be filled with them ? fishnet, Airtex, crochet knit and more ? but also seen in feminine lace at Erdem, Simone Rocha and more.White. It's everywhere, signifying a clean-minded if not entirely clean-living modernity at Topshop Unique, James Long (think Patti Smith on the cover of Horses), Simone Rocha, Giles, Sibling, Richard Nicoll, Antonio Berardi and Burberry, where the trench coat appeared in the non-colour at its most chic. At JW Anderson and Thomas Tait, meanwhile, a retro-futuristic love affair with white was expressed as flat, Space Age-style go-go boots.Florals. Roses were embossed on to white leather at Giles, stylised polished brass daisies appeared as buttons at Mulberry, more daisies (lacy ones) covered garments at Simone Rocha, and at Erdem lace veils of flowers decorated demure dresses.Menswear. Men's shirting at Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Simone Rocha and James Long; men's tailoring at Paul Smith; pinstripe at Maarten Van Der Horst and JW Anderson and deconstructed tweeds at Meadham Kirchhoff.Bows. In plastic at Christopher Kane, woven printed at Meadham Kirchhoff.Colour. Palest pink at Christopher Kane, cornflower blue at Richard Nicoll, neon green at Simone Rocha, sunshine yellow, flame and violet at Roksanda Ilincic and all the shades of the rainbow at Burberry.?"Write about what happens when you've packed all your winter clothes away and then it's freezing cold and raining," my other half says, rolling his eyes. Does he feel, not entirely unreasonably, that someone who makes a living out of writing about fashion should really have known better? Am I like one of those television weather forecasters blathering about high pressure, low pressure and so forth while viewers shout: "It's simple. It's snowing. Stop blathering about high pressure, low pressure and so forth and look out of the window."Fair enough. But that doesn't alter the fact that, rightly or wrongly, two weeks ago I put my warm wardrobe into storage, merrily hanging my black and navy cotton summer dresses, my lightweight denim and my Rick Owens fireman shorts ? but of course! ? in their place. And given the military precision with which, for fear of moth, I have done so, to exhume them for a week or two before the British weather turns positively tropical ? as it surely soon must ? seems nothing short of churlish. I'm nothing if not an optimist.And so, as winter gives way to spring, I find myself mostly wearing my Burberry trench coat. It seems like I've had it for ever but it is at this time of year that it truly comes into its own: it's light, waterproof and cool or warm depending on what's worn beneath it. It comes in very handy at any school parents' evening, too, incidentally, when I would rather no one knew just how slovenly I really am. My coat is a very smart and even conservative garment by my standards.Burberry's recent climb in revenues must be at least partly attributable to this classic garment. But knitwear, fragrance, watches and men's tailoring ? more than a few extremely chic men wear Burberry tailoring ? are also helping, clearly. As the Art of the Trench, photographed by Scott Schuman and published two years ago, went to prove, as far as this design is concerned it's how you wear it that is revealing. I like mine cut quite small ? even tight, controversially ? across the chest and shoulders, and close it by knotting the belt. I have never done more than one of the buttons up. There's a fine line between smart and uptight, after all.?But the weather was forecast to be more favourable for shopping this weekend, which is likely to result in many retailers posting healthy comparable sales ? for these two days at least.Unfortunately, this is likely to be a rare ray of sunshine in what has been a gloomy "golden quarter" ? when chains typically make about 40 per cent of their profits ? for many retailers. In the face of a brutal consumer slowdown and unseasonably warm weather, many retailers have been forced to discount heavily at the expense of profit margins to entice customers through their doors.Andrew Murphy, the retail director at John Lewis, says: "For the wider high street, the gap between the winners and losers will be more pronounced than ever this year. The sales numbers will only tell part of the story and more interesting will be what people have had to sacrifice to get to that level of sales."John Lewis is likely to be among the winners this Christmas, but it is a rare beast. Christine Cross, the chief retail adviser to the accountancy firm PricewaterhouseCoopers, said she expects non-food sales, both in terms of value and volumes, to be lower this Christmas on last year. "Overall, I think retail sales will be down on last year overall, with the exception of flagship shops in London which are going gangbusters at the moment."A number of non-food retailers are already showing signs of distress. For instance, Barratts Priceless collapsed into administration this month, putting nearly 4,000 jobs at risk, and the lingerie chain La Senza has hired a restructuring team at KPMG in a desperate bid to survive. But troubled chains can be found across the sector from Blacks Leisure, the outdoor specialist that put itself up for sale on 7 December, to Peacocks, the discount fashion chain that has debts of ￡240m. Robert Clark, the senior partner at Retail Week Knowledge Bank, says: "I think there will be the usual four or five [administrations] by the end of January and then the next ones around the March rent day." A further headache this year is that Christmas Day falls on a Sunday. This has intensified the game of chicken retailers always play with consumers about when to go on sale, and means that many shoppers, particularly men, will leave their shopping to the last minute.Jim McCarthy, the chief executive of Poundland, the single-price retailer, says: "I think that people are not buying yet. It is a little bit slower than it was last year so far. People perhaps feel comforted that they have an extra [Saturday] to shop."He adds: "UK consumers are resilient, and they will be determined to have a good Christmas. But I think the purchases they make will reflect their needs. They will not be as free with their spending as they were previously." However, Mr McCarthy says Poundland has delivered like-for-like sales growth "throughout the year". Though the next week is important for most retailers and an 11th-hour stampede of shoppers is likely, the writing is already on the wall for both successful and ailing chains.Dave Forsey, the chief executive of Sports Direct, which has been doing sparklingly well, says: "You know halfway through December how Christmas is going to be." Despite being up against a tough comparable performance of a football World Cup in 2010, Sports Direct grew its pre-tax profits by 0.3 per cent to ￡100.3m over the 26 weeks to 23 October, on total sales up 8.4 per cent to ￡888.6m. Struggling chains, however, might not find buyers waiting in the wings ? as they have in recent years ? after calling in administrators. Ms Cross of PwC says: "I think it is going to get tougher for the weaker retailers. In 2008, 2009 and 2010 there were plenty of buyers who were willing and able to take a medium-term view on distressed assets. Today, few investors are willing to take such a risk."It also appears that the downturn is driving a further wedge between the performance of retailers in London and the South-East, and those in the provinces, particularly in areas hit by public-sector job losses. Ms Cross adds: "Not only does there appear to be a North/South divide but also an East/West divide, with Bristol and its surrounding areas, and Wales finding the going tough. In contrast, trading in the South-East is better."However, there are plenty of retailers, including the fashion group Next, Kingfisher ? which owns the DIY chain B&Q ? and luxury players such as Mulberry and Burberry, which continue to grow profits.Indeed, Mr Murphy at John Lewis says the downbeat view of high street trading has been overdone. He says: "Our sense is that as we have come into December, things have picked up. I think some of the predictions of the most extreme prophets of doom and gloom will be a bit wide of the mark."Furthermore, after at least three years of austerity Britain, many retailers have made huge strides in trimming their costs, paying down debt, improving products and whipping their online operation into shape.In fact, the burgeoning growth of online can be clearly seen in John Lewis' latest figures. The group's total sales rose by only 2 per cent to ￡123.4m in the week 10 December, boosted by three new shops. But this did not include its online sales, which rocketed 20 per cent over the period. Website sales now exceed those at its flagship shop in Oxford Street, London, by more than 80 per cent.As for next year, much will depend on whether the eurozone sovereign debt crisis deepens and how this affects the UK economy, as well as what happens to unemployment and inflation. Optimism is in short supply, but there are some who point to widespread forecasts that inflation is expected to come down next year, helped by lower cotton prices and the sector passing the anniversary of the rise in VAT to 20 per cent. Mr Clark says: "I think it has got as bad as it is going to get. January and February will be really tough but after Easter it might get a bit better and then the Diamond Jubilee and Olympics will engender a feelgood factor that should encourage people to spend a bit more."But Mr McCarthy says: "My own view is that it is probably more likely to be 2014 before people start to feel more confident."Taking The Long ViewUK's senior shopkeepers see cause for optimism"The next three weeks are important for lots of retailers. That week after Christmas is very important becausethat’s when retailers [start to] clear their stock. Money is tighter at the moment and consumers are being much more selective.”Brian Brick, Chief executive, Moss Bros“I think people will have a good Christmas but that will centre on food and drink rather than lots of very expensive presents. People have decided to cut back a bit. Next year is going to be tougher than 2011.” Jim McCarthy, Chief executive, PoundlandStruggling storesShops that may have reason to fear the futureBlacks Leisure: Has debts of ￡36m and forced to seek buyer after shareholders balked at cash call. Mountain Warehouse and Go Outdoors, among others, could bid for part or all of the business at a knock-down price.Game: Warned on profits in November and has called in restructuring team at Deloitte. The City expects Game to post a loss of ￡12m for the year to 31 January.Peacocks: Plans debt-for-equity swap with Goldman Sachs and mulling closure of up to 200 shops. The group, which has 611 Peacocks and 394 Bon Marche shops, has debts of ￡240m.HMV: Shares at 3.9p, debts of ￡170.7m and latest sales down by 15.1 per cent. In its interim results tomorrow, HMV will say if its focus on selling technology products, such as headphones, has paid off.La Senza: The lingerie chain, which has 158 UK stores, has hired a restructuring team at KPMG. It employs 2,600 staff and delivered sales of ￡140m last year but its future could be in jeopardy.?The designer brands giant Richemont yesterday added the upmarket leisurewear brand Peter Millar to its wardrobe, which already holds Chloe clothes and Cartier jewellery. The Swiss firm's acquisition of Peter Millar, popular with US golfers, comes just weeks after Burberry's profits warning shocked the European luxury sector.?The luxury-goods retailer said the rise in sales to ￡830m in the six months to the end of September from ￡673m a year earlier, was driven by strong sales of "outerwear" ? coats ? especially its range of trench coats. Sales of leather goods were also particularly strong.The Duchess of Cambridge sparked a scramble for Burberry trench coats in March after wearing one on a trip to Belfast, with the make selling out online the next day. The brand is also favoured by the Queen and Kate Moss and advertised by Harry Potter star Emma Watson.Burberry reported a 45 per cent sales bump to ￡528m in its first half, as it sold more in existing stores, expanded to new ones and saw strong returns from China.Last month its shares had tumbled over concerns for the company's growth in the country after economists at Citi downgraded its economic outlook. Beyond the coats and leather bags, initiatives including men's tailoring and accessories, children's clothing and shoes continued to drive growth. Angela Ahrends, Burberry's chief executive, said the performance "clearly demonstrates the continuing global momentum of the Burberry brand".There was also a solid performance in its flagship markets, including New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong. The wholesale operation rose by one-fifth following sales to the Americas, emerging markets and of travel goods.The company forecasts that average retail selling space will grow 15 per cent during the second half of its financial year. It hopes to open 25 new stores this year and double its London store space after buying the shop adjoining its own on Regent Street.The results followed recent comments from its peers in the luxury sector. Rogerio Fujimori, an analyst at Credit Suisse, said last week that it suggested "no discernible impact on sales trends yet" from worsening economic conditions and concerns over sovereign debt in the European Union. Ms Ahrends said Burberry was "fully prepared to respond should it see any significant change in luxury demand".?Bargain-hunting Britons and the rise of the Asian consumer are changing the way people shop, according to investment experts.Rahul Sharma, managing director of Neev Capital, the investment manager with offices in London and New Delhi, told The Independent that retailers tapping into the trend for "two-speed shopping" ? the wealthy versus the squeezed mainstream ? would be the main beneficiaries."Things have never been better for the rich," he says. "Stock markets and prime property have rebounded, increasing the wealth of many significantly. In the 2008-9 crisis, confidence plunged the most among wealthy shoppers. Now that the world didn't end after all, they are back, consuming with gusto."Luxury goods companies are well positioned to capture this, but there are winners outside luxury."So what should you buy? We look at fund managers' and brokers' recommendations:Budget buyingThe Barclays research shows that almost half (47 per cent) of investors believe supermarket giant Tesco has the best prospects, despite it recently revealing its first set of negative results in 20 years.With inflation running at more than 5 per cent and negligible wage rises, British consumers' real income is dwindling at an "alarming rate", says Juliet Schooling Latter, head of research at broker Chelsea Financial Services."In the UK, we tend to see a greater increase in spending for Christmas, as it's an extended holiday, and the outlook for consumer spending is so dismal overall that it's quite possible that it will surprise on the upside, which should be reflected in a boost to share prices," she says."We may see some stocks benefit from shoppers economising: Tesco is hoping to take market share in toy sales and is being quite proactive with special Christmas offers. Other food retailers might also benefit, such as Sainsbury's, Morrisons and Booker."Tesco remains The Share Centre's preferred play in the retail sector, largely due to its international arm. "A large player during the Christmas period for food, clothing and gifts, we expect Tesco to benefit from a one-stop-shop style of consumer spending," says investment research analyst Nick Raynor.He also likes Associated British Foods, which owns Primark. "We expect it to benefit during the Christmas period as the weaker UK economy forces consumers to search for cheaper alternatives," adds Raynor.High-street picksOn the high street, retailers that stand to benefit from a sharp fall in key commodity inputs, such as cotton, could fare well. Schooling Latter likes Debenhams, Marks & Spencer and Next for their strong dividend yields of 5.5 per cent, 5 per cent and 3.9 per cent respectively.Ben Yearsley, an investment manager at Hargreaves Lansdown, the adviser, likes Richard Buxton's Schroder UK Alpha Plus fund, which holds Next, Debenhams and Home Retail."I can't get too excited by the prospects for UK retail, though many have been predicting doom and gloom for the sector for five years or so and specific retailers might prosper due to having the latest product or fashion," says Yearsley.Inditex, the fashion group which owns Zara, is one of them, according to Sharma. "When shoppers are feeling blue, it's paramount for retailers to offer something unique, be it service, product or experience. Zara creates tremendous excitement with frequent range changes at a much lower price point."Conversely, those that offer little by way of differentiation will suffer. "That's why we've seen brands like Habitat, Moben and Focus collapse recently," adds Sharma.Online beneficiariesShoppers are increasingly using the web to hunt for value. Figures from the Office for National Statistics show that the internet already accounts for 10 per cent of UK sales. In September alone, web sales were up 30 per cent compared with a 5 per cent rise overall.Sharma says: "It will be an online Christmas; Amazon is the most visible beneficiary."Meanwhile, Fidelity likes Ocado, the online supermarket, as a growing number of British consumers get their groceries online, while stockbrokers Killik & Co and The Share Centre favour ASOS, the online fashion retailer. It recently reported a 60 per cent jump in first-half sales, mainly driven by international operations. UK sales grew just 8 per cent, below broker expectations.Raynor says: "The economic pressures are causing a significant headwind, but we expect the increasing trend of shopping online will see ASOS benefit during the festive period."Tech spendingSales of technology products tend to spike over Christmas.The Share Centre's preferred telecoms play is Vodafone. "The increasing demand for smartphones has been reflected in a rise in data sales and we expect this trend to continue during the festive period," says Raynor."Vodafone continues to maintain its leadership in this area through investment in the quality of its network. This is one for investors to buy for long-term growth and a stable and increasingly attractive yield."Meanwhile, electronic components manufacturer Laird was the top contributor to the performance of Fidelity Special Value, managed by Sanjeev Shah, during the first half of 2011. Laird's shares jumped after it rejected a takeover proposal from US rival Cooper Industries and announced plans to exit its underperforming mobile handset antenna business.Shah also holds Ericsson, in his Fidelity Special Situations fund, in the belief that it has the strongest franchise and technology in telecoms equipment. "It stands to benefit strongly from the growth of smartphones and mobile data, but is unloved and under-owned, with low a valuation," says Shah.Dixons is also trading cheaply, at five times earnings, but could struggle amid a growth in internet purchasing of technology, says Schooling Latter.Sharma believes companies selling electrical goods easily bought at several retailers, such as Best Buy, Argos, Currys and HMV, will struggle the most this Christmas.Luxury goodsLuxury goods "stand out in a stock market grappling with concerns over future growth and margin pressure", according to Neev Capital's Sharma. "They are rare, have pricing power and enjoy strong entry barriers: therein lies their appeal," he says. "The star attraction is their exposure to the phenomenal wealth creation in the emerging world, where they are gaining hugely aspirational shoppers. Already, for many brands, nearly half of sales come from the new world."China, well on its way to becoming the largest luxury goods market in the world, has captured the imagination of most companies and investors. However, the industry is not even scratching the surface of India's potential, where conspicuous consumption rules."Sharma's favourite stocks are Richemont, which owns Cartier and Montblanc, US designer brand Ralph Lauren and cosmetics giant Estee Lauder.Killik & Co also likes Richemont, while Fidelity tips LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods group, which owns Moet & Chandon, Hennessy and Louis Vuitton, as beneficiaries of rapid consumption growth in emerging markets.Meanwhile, Britain's Burberry ? a top 10 holding in the Schroder UK Alpha Plus fund ? should also benefit from Asian consumers adopting expensive Western tastes. Its revenues jumped 30 per cent to $1.3bn in the six months to 31 September, fuelled by increased demand from Asia. However, its shares have been dragged down by the wider market, dropping around 20 per cent since July.'There will be winners and losers'With rising unemployment and the eurozone debt crisis putting a recession back on the cards, the backdrop to Christmas is not exactly rosy ? and there will inevitably be losers."In such a climate, there will be winners and losers; the risks of backing the loser could be more damaging than usual," says Adrian Lowcock, a senior investment adviser at Bestinvest, the broker. "A weak Christmas could push some retailers over the edge, while picking a winner might not be as rewarding if sales disappoint across the board."Juliet Schooling Latter, of Chelsea Financial Services, says cyclical retailers are out of favour for a reason. "Investing with a view to a spike in spending at Christmas is a little risky," she warns."A short-term boost to retailers from Christmas is unlikely to alter their prospects over the next few years. It's a highly competitive environment, with discounts very much in evidence and likely to remain in place for some time."Lowcock recommends buying into funds with exposure to consumer stocks that aren't pure retail plays. He tips First State Asia Pacific, Artemis Income and Threadneedle UK Equity Income, which holds Unilever. "Companies like these, which have strong brands and international focus, will also benefit from the growth of the Asian consumer," he says.JOHCM UK Opportunities, managed by John Wood, is another fund placed to take advantage of a re-rating of consumer stocks, adds Schooling Latter. The fund invests in consumer goods (17 per cent versus an 11.7 per cent FTSE All-Share weighting) and services (22 per cent versus 9.6 per cent).?i Editor, Stefano Hatfield, ( ) writes that merely teaching kids just to pass exams is self-destructive, .Commentator, Annalisa Barbieri ( ) , writes for our new section about and what it means for education as a whole: "You’ll pass or you’ll fail. There will be no re-sitting of individual modules; the entire exam would have to be repeated. Children will be judged on nothing other than their exam paper."?Champions LeagueAs usual, some football is happening. More .?Jimi HendrixJames Marshall Hendrix died 42 years ago today (September 18 1970). He was originally named John Allen Hendrix , but when his father returned from World War II, he divorced Hendrix's alcoholic mother and renamed him James Marshall.? The " " says, "widely considered to be the greatest instrumentalist in rock music, Jimi Hendrix invented a completely new sound for the electric guitar over a period of just a few years."The ' says, " Help shape the future of? and the development of the? Sound Wave Wall " tweets: " We lost one of the world’s greatest axemen 42 years ago today. RIP Jimi Hendrix ? hope you’re rocking hard up there? "?RomneyMitt Romney's presidential campaign has faltered, as he told a room of wealthy donors yesterday, .Independent Voices editor, Amol Rajan ( ) gives .@ tweets: "We laugh at Mitt?Romney, but if he were British we'd probably elect him Mayor of London."?London Fashion Week, Mulberry, #lfwThe Mulberry Spring/Summer 2013 show is about to start. According to Twitter, scary fashion mag editor Anna Wintour,? songstress Lana del Rey, shiny-haired Olivia Palermo and the stars of Downton Abbey are all there, eagerly awaiting 's offerings. Read our report on yesterday's 50's-inspired Burberry show .? ? ?Her marriage is wonderful, she's given up alcohol and from tomorrow she's hosting the nightly 'Strictly' spin-off show 'It Takes Two'?But even with just 20 weeks to go, there are still some short-term opportunities for investors who are seeking a sprinkling of sporting gold dust on their returns."During the games, hundreds of thousands of visitors will arrive along with the substantial sponsorship and media attention which can attribute much of the immediate economic benefit," points out Jon Wingent at Close Brothers Asset Management."Hosting an Olympics enhances investment opportunities that might not otherwise be there such as travel, tourism, leisure and retail. But the selective investment opportunities are much like holiday lets in that they are seasonal and unlikely to be long-term holds given the real economy that prevails behind the pomp and ceremony of the games."Trevor Green, manager of UK equities at Aviva, is a bit more positive. He believes that the Olympics effect will outlast the games themselves for several months afterwards."The revenue potential for businesses associated with the event can last much longer than the 19 days it takes to stage the event," he says.Even so, investing in the 2012 Olympics is not for the faint-hearted. The opportunities are better-suited for proactive investors who are prepared to ride out any stock market bumps.Leisure and tourismLeisure and tourism are a couple of the more obvious beneficiaries of the Olympics, according to investment advisers Hargreaves Lansdown.The firm's Danny Cox says the brewery giant Greene King and airlines such as International Airline Group ? which includes British Airways and Iberia ? and easyJet could see their share prices rise as a result of increased tourism.He says investors looking to spread their risk with a collective investment should consider Marlborough Multi-cap income fund, which has Greene King as its largest holding.Travel company Thomas Cook may have been in the doldrums of late, but it could benefit from being both a direct sponsor and beneficiary of the Olympics, says Mr Cox.The world's oldest travel firm is an official sponsor of this year's Olympics and Paralympics. As such, Mr Cox believes it could benefit from a corporate hospitality programme that will see it as the only official Olympics UK travel provider.Meanwhile, Mr Green says the hotel sector will benefit from short-term gain."Already it appears some hotels intend to raise prices of up to five times their normal tariffs while the Olympics is on," he says. "Of course, if you are looking to book a hotel this is alarming, but it does suggest highly profitable times to come for some chains."Firms that could benefit include Millennium & Copthorne and Whitbread, operator of the Premier Inn chain.However, it's worth bearing in mind the example of thr 1996 Atlanta Games, says Mr Green, when the number of available hotel rooms ballooned by 15 per cent."The rooms may have been full for the duration of the Olympics, but all that extra supply destabilised the market after the visitors had gone."SportsListed companies which specialise in sports and leisure stand to benefit from an increased interest in all things fitness related. Companies that could feel the love from the Olympics include Sports Direct."Despite many of its rivals floundering, Sports Direct, the UK's leading sports retailer, has prospered and will hope to benefit further from any Olympics-led boost to demand," says Mr Cox.As the Olympics takes place outside the football season, Sports Direct could benefit from a fillip given that it would otherwise be in the middle of a summer lull, says Mr Green.Other less obvious Olympic beneficiaries could include Halfords. The success of the UK's cycling team could provide the retailer with a lift in sales of its bicycles after those watching the world's best in action on their doorstep are inspired to give two wheels a go.Energy and securityThe security company G4S, which secured a ￡100m deal last March to provide security for the Olympic and Paralympic Games, could make much of the opportunity."It was also recently chosen as a preferred bidder for Project Compass, which relates to the provision of asylum-seeker support services," Mr Cox reports.And of course athletes need hot (and cold) showers while they are training for the games."Energy company Aggreko is an exclusive supplier of temporary energy services for the London games. The company will provide about 220 megawatts of power, some 60 megawatts more than it supplied at the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games," Mr Cox points out.Food and drinkLike them or loathe them McDonalds and Coca Cola are considered by analysts to be strong buys as their brands will be everywhere come the end of June.McDonalds will open its largest outlet close to the Olympic Park ,while Coca Cola is said to be the most recognised official partner of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games in terms of consumer brand awareness.Telecoms and other sponsors"You could consider telecom companies such as Vodafone, which will experience increased mobile phone traffic in London and is a sponsor of the games," says Mr Cox.Other sponsors worth considering include BP, Lloyds TSB and BT Group, while Neil Veitch of SVM Asset Management says Virgin Media is another stock to watch."It has pulled off a bit of a coup in recruiting the world's fastest man to front their latest advertising campaign. As Usain Bolt seeks to repeat his feats of Beijing 2008, expect the company to draw parallels between his performance and their broadband speeds."ShoppingNot everyone will want to watch the Olympics, and there may be those actively avoiding the games, particularly tourists who will consider the games as the perfect down time to explore what is considered one of the world's greatest shopping destinations."The West End of London has seen phenomenal growth recently on the back of a weak sterling as visitors have been attracted to London for shopping, as regularly highlighted by Shaftesbury, the West End real estate operator," says Mr Green.He believes the retail effect can only magnify during the games as visitors split their time between watching sport and spending money in the capital."Luxury, world-famous UK brands like the Burberry Group, which has announced plans to double its existing store space in time, stand to gain from the influx of extra visitors coming to London," he predicts.Couch potatoesThen there are those companies that stand to gain from those who failed to get a ticket in the public ballot or who cannot afford the hotel prices to see the games live in London.Mr Green says advertisers will be clamouring to get on TV."The Olympics are as big as it gets, and the London games are expected to surpass Beijing's 4.7 billion television viewers. Although the BBC will be the lead broadcaster, one of the biggest commercial beneficiaries will be rival ITV, as advertisers clamour to advertise during the games. This may just give a one-off benefit to the company, but it will be a very welcome boost nonetheless."And those who can afford to advertise will gain too. "One company who may well be advertising on television is Britvic. Events such as the Olympics are not only good for sales but also offer an unrivalled opportunity to launch a new product onto the global market."And ones to avoidOf course, for every winner there has to be a loser, and not everyone will benefit from the games coming to London."Potential losers include Tui Travel," says Mr Green. "They will have the headache of bookings coming in even later than usual as the public decides at the last minute to go abroad pre or post the games, thus making their scheduling very difficult."Leisure operators such as Cineworld and Goals Soccer Centres may have a quiet 19 days as their customers' attention is focused elsewhere."A run for their moneyEconomy boostThe Olympics (held from 27 July to 12 August) is expected to give a ￡5.1bn cash injection to the economy. The Paralympic Games follow from 29 August to 9 September.Encourage spendingDuring the Games, consumer spending is predicted to hit ￡750m. It will be the third time London has hosted the event. Previous times were in 1908 and 1948 (pictured: the wrestler Ray Myland).Global audienceA total of 204 nations are participating. There are 300 events to win medals in, made up of 26 sports, which break down into 39 disciplines.SponsorsThere will be branding all over the Games, with 53 different companies having paid out to be associated with the event, including 11 worldwide partners and seven London 2012 Official Olympic Partners.Cashing inLondoners with property near Olympic venues are hoping to make a mint. There has been a 444 per cent increase in average asking prices for short-term rentals in July 2012 compared to July 2011's figure, according to Gumtree.com. The average price is now ￡2,858.33 per week.?The designer outlet centre Bicester Village is home to 130 brands, including Burberry, Hugo Boss and Prada, and at the weekend its car parks are often so rammed it can take up to 20 minutes to find a space. The success of the site has not been lost on the property company Hammerson, which yesterday said it was investing a further ￡100m in Value Retail, the operator of Bicester Village. This takes Hammerson's investment in the company, which was founded by American Scott Malkin and has eight other centres in Europe, from a 12 per cent stake to 22 per cent. Designer outlets appear to have hit the sweet spot of enticing consumers cutting back and seeking value, as well as those trading up to buy quality designer brands in austerity Britain. Neil Saunders, the managing director at Conlumino, says: "Most designer outlets seem to be getting very good growth ? certainly better than the high street." For consumers, part of the attraction is that retailers offer designer goods at a discount of up to 60 per cent off in these centres. CBRE, the property firm, says there are about 48 designer outlet centres in the UK, including Gunwharf Quays at Portsmouth Harbour and Cheshire Oaks in Chester. Most schemes were built in the 1980s and 1990s and were initially called factory outlets, as they were often sited on, or next to, a retailer's manufacturing site. The market is also highly heterogeneous, ranging from Bicester's luxury offer to centres, such as Braintree in Essex that sell high street brands, including Mountain Warehouse and Marks & Spencer, at lower prices. In terms of the luxury end, it is Bicester that arguably provides the blueprint, both in terms of its look and feel, but also in how it has gone after the overseas tourist market. Mr Malkin wanted to introduce the American concept of discount shopping, and this is reflected Bicester's New England-style clapboard houses, which are painted in subtle greys and whites. David Atkins, the chief executive of Hammerson, says: "Bicester trades off the London tourist market," attracting high-spending visitors from Russia, Brazil, the Middle East and China. The site is marketed globally with a number of tour operators, and information is available in London's upmarket hotels. This is particularly true for four-fifths of Chinese visitors to London, who also fit in a trip to Bicester. Jonathan De Mello, a senior director at CBRE, says: "What Bicester is tapping into is that inflow of Chinese tourists coming to the UK." For overseas tourists, the shopping outlet also offers peace of mind that the products are not counterfeit. Mr Atkins says: "If you come to Bicester, you are getting the real thing. That credibility and reliability of the offer is very important to overseas buyers." Food and leisure facilities are also key to successful centres. For instance, the property firm Land Securities' Gunwharf scheme has more than 90 designer outlets, 30 restaurants and bars, and a 14-screen Vue Cinema.Ashley Blake, the head of retail portfolio management at Land Securities, says: "I think this is the future of outlets. People come in, have a good time, go back with a bargain and feel they have been prudent." From a commercial perspective, designer outlets can offer both retailers and landlords a more flexible way to conduct business. Mr Atkins says: "It is a great way to deal with last season's stock, or discounts, and generate very strong retail volumes ? and yet in a controlled manner that matches their own brand's aspirations." For landlords, designer outlets typically give them more leeway in how they run centres. As opposed to 10 to 15-year contracts under commercial lease law, retailers typically sign up to shorter leases and turnover-based rents. This gives landlords greater flexibility in moving out weaker retailers in favour of stronger ones. Mr Blake says: "We can take people out quite easily. If a retailer's sales fall below a certain level, the landlord can evict them. "At Gunwharf, we have seen a high level of lettings and relettings over the last three years ? far more than a normal shopping centre." He adds: "In a way, you are running a designer outlet like a department store because you want to bring in new brands, which keeps the offer fresh and exciting for consumers." Retailers are also keen to join the designer outlet revolution. Graeme Ellisdon, the founder of Osprey London, the retailer of vintage leather handbags and purses, says: "As a retail tenant with eight Osprey London outlet stores, it is clear to me that the outlet sector continues to provide an attractive alternative to the high street ? both for brands and customers." Despite their attraction, Mr De Mello says that the building of designer outlet centres has "tailed off" over recent years. This appears to be changing, however. For instance, Quintain last month signed up its first high-end fashion brand, Max Studio, at its London Designer Outlet at Wembley, which opens next year. And Henderson Global Investors last month submitted a planning application to extend its Swindon Designer Outlet Centre by 50,000 square feet of new retail and catering space. Indeed, Mr De Mello sees room for more designer outlets in the UK, particularly in areas such as East Anglia and London. He said: "They are definitely a hot commodity at the moment. The market has not reached saturation in the UK." The crowded car park at Bicester on a weekend certainly points to a big future for designer outlets in the UK.?"I need relief, desperately," he says. "Meet me in the Blue Posts son, half an hour. Bring that mate of yours. No, the good-looking one." What's up with Kamikaze Steve?He's done his beans on Man Group shares, chucked his chips on Burberry, lost his shirt on BP. "I've shorted Mothercare just to cheer meself up," he says. "I hate bleedin' Mothercare. Half an hour."The stock market ain't all strippers and balloons you know.?Flannels, which sells designer brands including Dolce & Gabbana, Paul Smith and Burberry, has nine shops in Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool and Birmingham. Last year it entered a company voluntary arrangement (CVA) and restructured the business, closing some of its shops.It is thought Sports Direct is paying a nominal sum as the company is still loss-making. Flannels, which was founded in 1976 by Neil Prosser in Knutsford, Cheshire, completed its CVA last month. Its most recent accounts show that the business made a ￡310,450 loss last year. Mr Prosser is thought to be staying with the chain.Sports Direct has been expanding into the world of men's fashion. Last year it bought Sir Tom Hunter's USC and Cruise clothing chains.Rival sports group JD Sports has also upped its fashion credentials. Last year it bought Cecil Gee from Moss Bros, and has teamed up with the fashion marketing agency Four Marketing Group.?McCartney, 40, is up against the acclaimed Christopher Kane, who designs for Versace’s second line Versus as well as his own label, and young talent Mary Katrantzou, whose innovation in print and work with the Parisian couture workshop Lesage wowed audiences at London Fashion Week, for the British Fashion Council’s Designer of the Year award.The nomination, announced last night at a reception at The Savoy, reflects the success not only of McCartney’s Olympic offerings ? which were loved by competitors and the crowd alike ? but also of her own label, which posted a 34 per cent surge in profits last year alone. She has shown her wares in Paris since 2001, but her return to the capital last February to unveil a range of evening dresses was a highlight of the London shows.“This year seemed like a great year to be a Londoner,” she said at that event. “I’m a born and bred Londoner, and my brand’s based here. My first ever show was here, so it’s a celebration really.”That show, upon McCartney’s graduation from Central Saint Martin’s in 1995, featured appearances from her friends Yasmin le Bon, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell and a soundtrack written by her proud father, Sir Paul.McCartney has also been nominated for the British Fashion Awards Red Carpet category, after her ‘optical illusion’ dresses have been seen on a slew of stars, including Kate Winslet and Charlize Theron, and for the Best Designer Brand award, along with Burberry, Mulberry and Alexander McQueen, who have all flown the flag for British fashion overseas in the past year.Other nominees include the stylist Katie Grand and MA course director at Central Saint Martin’s Louise Wilson, who last year celebrated 20 years at the college, for the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator. Meanwhile, up-and-coming names JW Anderson and Simone Rocha ? daughter of the illustrious John ? battle it out for the Emerging Talent Award. The ceremony will take place in November.?The Comme des Garcons dhoti pant is one such example; the Yohji Yamamoto black, asymmetric gown another. And then there's the Maison Martin Margiela tabi boot. The latter may be crafted in the softest calfskin, but any resemblance to the more mainstream 'must-have' fashion accessory stops there. With a split toe ? not as difficult as it may sound from the point of view of comfort, at least ? and a heel that varies but that is predominantly less-than-spiky, wooden and cylindrical, it is the perfect footwear for the woman who finds the cartoonish proportions of any number of so-called 'towering platforms', not to mention strappy, barely-there sandals, a fashion cliche too far. And that, presumably, is why it has been successful for over 20 years.The tabi boot has always frightened me just a little. It's based on a Japanese slipper but a cloven hoof (yes, the devil) also springs to mind. And, in the end, that's why I knew I had to have a pair. My relationship with heels ? or lack of it ? is well-charted but, even I have to admit, a little lift would do my appearance no harm at times. And this is a lift with the mother of all differences: the footwear in question is about as far from the stiletto-wearing woman as eye-candy/trophy wife/girlfriend stereotype as it is possible to imagine a shoe being. And that is the point. More remarkable still, I can actually walk ? and even, at a push, run ? in my tabi boots. That might be a minor consideration to those in permanent possession of a chauffeur-driven Mercedes, but for the rest of us it is the best of all possible fashion news.Susannah Frankel is Fashion Editor of The Independent?2. Miu Miu￡225, net-a-porter.comIn one of the hottest shapes of the season, the pink-tinted lenses will add a romantic touch to your vision that will make everything seem to be coming up roses.3. Giles￡350, cutlerandgross.comAvailable in four colourways the "Sonic" design was a continuation of the designer's drawings of swans and mirrors the "elegant mystery" of that majestic fowl.4. Christian Dior￡210, 01423 520 303Candy colours are inescapable for summer and a bright pair of sunglasses is a fun way to wear the trend if classic neutrals are more your thing clothes-wise.5. Erdem￡350, cutlerandgross.comErdem Moralioglu's collection for spring/summer was a symphony of lace and florals. Here lace is encapsulated within acetate for a feminine, modern style.6. Marc Jacobs￡219, Marc Jacobs, 01423 520 303Aviators come in almost all shapes and sizes. This acrylic pair isn't flight regulation thanks to the oversize frame and fun and frivolous colours.7. Louis Vuitton￡291, louisvuitton.comContinuing the ice-cream shades throughout Marc Jacobs' spring/ summer collection, this pair has retro styling reminiscent of flight goggles with feminine curves.8. Burberry￡159, sunglasses-shop.co.ukClassic aviators are a perennially popular style. This luxurious pair comes replete with the house's signature check as a discreet detail on the arms.9. Prada￡196.20, sunglasses-shop.co.ukIf you're struggling to choose between this season's cat-eye or round shapes, this angled pair offers the best of both worlds and is flattering to boot.10. Celine￡220, brownsfashion.comThe keyhole detail on this pair of tortoiseshell shades references classic preppy styles. Honey and brown tones will flatter blondes who may find black too harsh.?2. Asos￡65, asos.comThis has contrasting red and camel panels, a funnel neck and drawstring tie. With a hood and a cinched waist, it's a very urbane take on nautical.3. Cos￡175, cosstores.comCos clothes are the essence of understatement, providing basic pieces cut in a very unfussy way. This aqua blue rain mac fulfils this ethos.4. Margaret Howell￡345, margarethowell.co.ukThis rain jacket is made from waxed cotton, and is as functional as it is stylish. Not only does it have concealed pockets, it also comes with a pack-away pouch.5. Original Penguin￡ 185, originalpenguin.co.ukWearing anything in this eye-catching shade of cherry tomato takes confidence, but if you've got it, flaunt it. Under the toggles there's also a zip fastener.6. French Connection￡150, frenchconnection.comThe belted trench is the tried and tested classic choice for traditional rain wear. This affordable version ticks all the right boxes in what this style should offer.7. Oliver Spencer￡289, oliverspencer.co.ukThis jacket is made from Millerian waxed cotton, which helps give it a polished finish. It features a contrasting zipper fastening and four pockets.8. Gap￡39.95, gap.euFinding fashion forward rain wear on a budget can be tricky, but fortunately, Gap has this nifty little nylon jacket in red to help avoid any fashion no-nos.9. Burberry Brit￡595, mrporter.comBurberry Brit provides a relaxed but still sophisticated take on Burberry's heritage. This jacket is showerproof and has a clean, modern line.10. Levi's Made & Crafted￡250, levismadeandcrafted.comAdmittedly this is more of a showerproof jacket than anything else but the cut is of a classic work-wear style, so it's well worth a look.?2. Red Herring￡19, debenhams.comThe Red Herring brand has a pared-down approach to fashion, which extends to their watches ? this one is made from hardwearing plastic with a basic, unfussy design.3. Armani Exchange￡65, armani.comThese Colour Pop watches from the Armani stable target a younger crowd and come in myriad colours, which can be matched to the colour of an outfit.4. Burberry￡395, burberry.comA Swiss-made watch from Burberry with a sunray dial, three-handed movement, day and date functions, gun-metal stainless steel face and sturdy rubber strap.5. Guess￡119, guess.comWearing a bright yellow watch is an antidote to the British weather. The sporty silicone strap fits on to a grey metal face, which is fitted with a textured yellow top ring.6. G Shock￡125, selfridges.comThis G Shock watch is a bold and vivid combination of colours. The red, white and blue are obviously in keeping with this year’s patriotic vibe.7. Adidas￡50, houseoffrazer.comThis aqua-blue polyurethane watch is given a final ostentatious flourish with the bright pink logo in the middle of the face ? ideal for lounging around the pool.8. Casio Edifice￡225, edifice-watches.co.ukKnown as the Formula 1 of sporty watches, this Casio is coated in Neobrite, illuminating it after only minimal light exposure. It has five alarms and a world time function.9. Diesel￡125, diesel.comThe black face is set off by the bright purple of the resin bracelet strap, while the oversized numbering gives this water-resistant analog watch a flamboyant finish.10. Seiko￡201, yoox.comA steel face and black rubber strap give a hard-edged feel to this watch. Water-resistant to 100m with separate date window, this is perfect for the city dweller.?￡995, mrporter.comThis shawl collar knit from Burberry Prorsum exudes 1970s manly style. And the brown hexagonal print only adds to its cool retro credentials. It’s a fine knit rather than chunky and the cut is on the slim side, keeping the overall feel very modern.2. River Island￡38, river-island.comHaving an animal motif on your knitwear doesn’t have to be restricted to the over-exposed reindeer. This fantastic grey, tonal knit from River Island has a lion’s face down one side, if only to confirm your own suspicions that you are king of the urban jungle. Wear with sharp tailored trousers.3. Oliver Spencer￡129, oliverspencer.comThis is the ideal sweater for your downtime. Made from a lambswool blend, this three-panel knit of red, blue and grey is easy on the eye. Layer with a T-shirt and a raincoat. .4. Autograph￡35, marksandspencer.co.ukColour blocking on a sweater is an easy way to add some pizazz to your wardrobe. This burgundy and navy combo ? both very wearable colours ? from the Autograph range at Marks & Spencer comes in a cable knit for added texture.5. Michael Bastian￡565, mrporter.comMichael Bastian is a New York-based designer whose raison d’etre is American East Coast style. So it’s a little surprising that this yellow crewneck with a chevron stripe is inspired by the cartoon character Charlie Brown. However, as it’s made from the finest Italian cashmere, it’ll cost you more than peanuts.6. Boden￡44, boden.co.ukThis navy fishermen’s style knit makes a strong graphic statement without being over the top. Wear it with indigo denim jeans and desert boots for a paired down off-duty look.7. Marc Jacobs￡398, matchesfashion.comWith its Persian origins, the paisley pattern has been popular in Europe since the 17th century, especially during the psychedelic Sixties. Nowadays the print is more commonly seen on silk ties. Not so with Marc Jacobs, whose yellow and black angora knit is the perfect balance of urban and exotic.8. Lyle & Scott￡125, lyleandscott.co.ukFair isle knits are looking dated now after last year’s overkill, so try something a little different, such as this Aztec-inspired design from Lyle & Scott. Made from the softest cotton, it’s a sure-fire way to add a jolt of colour to your outfit.9. Folk￡155, mywardrobe.comIf you’re looking for a statement knit with subtlety, this multi-stripe crewneck sweater from Folk is a key contender. The mix of coloured and grey stripes gives the garment a homespun feel. And it’s this laid back approach to fashion that has given the label such a global following.10. James Long for Topman￡100, topman.comDesigner James Long has always had a bold and directional take on menswear, which ensures he is a firm favourite when it comes to collaborations with Topman. It’s easy to see why with this jazzy polka-dot knit. Not to be worn by shrinking violets, you should let the jumper speak for itself; layer over a navy T-shirt and wear with jeans.?2. Stripes￡15, Topshop, topshop.comThese zig-zagging vintage stripes will jolly up your rainy workwear of a damp and soggy morning and they're suitably sassy for summer ? which promises to be a washout!3. Map lined￡120, London Undercover, mrporter.comSometimes an umbrella can be used to convey gravitas or, conversely, as a pointing device. This one has an aristocratic hauteur, thanks to its classic design.4. Miss Marc￡40, Marc by Marc Jacobs, harveynichols.comMarc Jacobs isn't one to hide his lights under a bushel ? or an umbrella, for that matter. Make a statement with his "Miss Marc" design, featuring kooky cartoons.5. Ducks￡19.95, Joules, joules.comLet the raindrops be like water off a duck's back with this umbrella, which is wittily decorated with flocks of flying birds. It's light and compact, but sturdy enough to withstand a gale.6. Be a good sport￡22, Cath Kidston, cathkidston.co.ukGiven the British climate, it's best to pack a brolly if you're heading to the Olympic Park. What could be more patriotic than one with cartoons of the various activities?7. Check￡135, Burberry, net-a-porter.comBurberry's impressive catwalk shows often finish with a rumble of thunder and a sprinkling of indoor rain, so where better to look than this label for a chic piece of wet weather kit?8. Lightweight￡7.49, Uniqlo, uniqlo.comThe Japanese chain Uniqlo specialises in practicality and superb value for money. This functional and un-flimsy umbrella is the perfect example. It will stand up to Great British gusts.9. Stem Print￡30, Orla Kiely, orlakiely.comDesigner Orla Kiely is known for her signature stem prints, so proclaim your style credentials with this striking pattern, eye-catching enough to stop you leaving it on the bus or in a pub.10 Tiny￡17, Fulton, selfridges.comWhen it comes to umbrellas, Fulton knows best. Founded in 1956, the company has supplied brollies to the Queen and the Queen Mother ? and you never see those ladies caught in the rain.?2. MangoGet on board with the tropical mood as seen on the runways. Add this colourful parrot brooch from high-street favourite Mango for an instant new season outfit update.Where: How much: ￡29.993. ASOSThis multi-disc design chain necklace from online behemoth ASOS is perfect for those who want statement jewellery. Wear it over a plain T-shirt for the greatest style impact.Where: How much: ￡404. WallisLayering isn't just a buzzword for your wardrobe this season, but can also work well for jewellery. This gold beaten stacked ring from Wallis gives a nifty three-rings-in-one look.Where: How much: ￡8.505. RadleyThis blue rectangular-faced watch by Radley is a great wear-every-day style, the soft leather strap in navy blue adding a touch of sophistication.Where: How much: ￡64.996. OasisThis chunky gold gem-embellished piece from high-street store Oasis is half chunky necklace, half neck collar. Wear it under a high-necked collared shirt or simple T-shirt.Where: How much: ￡257. TUA twisted metal chain bracelet is just the thing to toughen up any overly girly spring fashions, and it looks far more expensive than its supermarket price tag.Where: How much: ￡6.508. Zoe and MorganBrother-and-sister duo Zoe and Morgan's rock and roll take on jewellery design made their brand an instant success. Try these drop pendant, ethically processed silver earrings.Where: How much: ￡1109. Tatty DevineWear your heart on your sleeve, or your chest if you'd prefer. This bold glittery brooch will add a flash of colour and character to even the most ordinary of outfits.Where: How much: ￡1810. Kenneth Jay LaneKenneth Jay Lane has been designing costume jewellery for almost half a century. Invest in this oversized cocktail ring with amber stone at a price that won't break your bank balance.Where: How much: ￡7511. Michael KorsCan't decide between silver and gold for your new timepiece? There is an alternative. This chronograph watch from US designer Michael Kors is a rose gold shade and effortlessly chic.Where: How much: ￡19912. River IslandSpring blooms are always a big trend for the season, and your accessories can match with this oversized flower necklace. For a more fashion-forward look team with a flower print top.Where: How much: ￡2513. Maria BlackDanish designer Maria Black's jewellery is characterised by its sleek and sexy aesthetic. This bracelet has a rock and roll edge that will work well as a day to evening transitional piece.Where: How much: ￡14714. Diva at Miss SelfridgeTake inspiration from the 1920s; one of this season's biggest trends, with these gold- disc Art Deco-style earrings. Wear with a flapper girl-style dress for optimum period appeal.Where: How much: ￡6.5015. PradaIf you're after statement gems, look no further than this pink crystal and green patent rose brooch. It comes from Miuccia Prada's debut jewellery collection launched earlier this year.Where: How much: ￡26016. Erickson BeamonJewellery company Erickson Beamon was founded in Detroit in the 1980s. This gemstone ring is characteristic of its vintage inspired designs which all sport a modern twist.Where: How much: ￡19817. BurberryThis stainless steel quartz watch is a great back to basics option. The strap's metal links are subtley reminiscent of Burberry's check print, which gives a contemporary feel.Where: How much: ￡29518. CoastBetter known for eveningwear and wedding guest attire, this premium high-street brand's jewellery is worth a look. This agate and gemstone necklace will update a favourite dress.Where: How much: ￡5019. Dorothy PerkinsMake a statement with this black-and-gold cylinder arm cuff from high street stalwart Dorothy Perkins. Let the piece take centre stage by pairing it with a simple crisp white shirt.Where: How much: ￡1520. DannijoDannijo is the cult jewellery brand founded by sisters Danielle and Jodie Snyder. These handmade gold-plated earrings fuse a bit of rocker vibe with everyday elegance.Where: How much: ￡14021. NW3Even the most traditional of jewellery lovers will hanker after this cute cat brooch from Hobbs contemporary line NW3; ideal for adding a bit of fun to more serious ensembles.Where: How much: ￡2922. Alex MonroeAlex Monroe is based in Suffolk and her jewellery designs are inspired by nature. This 22ct gold-plated silver leaf ring with Tourmaline gemstone makes an elegant addition to any hand.Where: How much: ￡15023. DKNYDKNY's navy ceramic chronograph watch is not just a practical option with its multiple time and date dials, but has an on- trend borrowed-from-your boyfriend vibe.Where: How much: ￡22524. KG Kurt GeigerKurt Geiger's accessories collection is now a few seasons old and features jewellery such as this gold-plated knot bracelet, which would be an instant investment piece.Where: How much: ￡5025. Bling DeenieNot for the faint-hearted, this silver spike bracelet will provide a focal point for any look; style it right by keeping the rest of your outfit simple.Where: How much: ￡4526. Marc JacobsThese yellow stud earrings are from the Marc by Marc range, which provides the welcome opportunity to get a piece of New York's most famous designer brand for a lot less.Where: How much: ￡4027. H SamuelThis stone-set ladybird brooch is an ideal first purchase for those wary of such things. The tiny piece from this high-street jewellers is both subtle and stylish.Where: How much: ￡14.9928. Yves Saint LaurentYves Saint Laurent's iconic "Arty" ring. The popular design is available in a range of colours and finishes: this particular version is the eye-catching gold with blue stone.Where: How much: ￡16529. Emporio ArmaniIf your time-keeping tastes are traditional, then this super-slim amber and crystal watch with classic roman numerals and brown leather strap will be right up your street.Where: How much: ￡17930. Kara by Kara RossHorseshoes have long been worn as symbols of good luck and this oval pendant with black drusy gemstone is a stylish example.Where: Harvey Nichols (020 7235 5000)How much: ￡7531. WhistlesChain jewellery doesn't have to be of the scary industrial sort; try this delicate multi-strand bracelet complete with pretty W trinket from upmarket high-street store Whistles.Where: How much: ￡1832. New LookThe trend for feathery fashion has had a resurgence in recent months so these feather earrings from New Look are ideal for those wanting to sport a more bohemian look.Where: How much: ￡5.9933. Freedom at TopshopThere's something to satisfy every taste in the Freedom at Topshop collection. This oversized pink lip brooch can be worn on a top or attached to a handbag.Where: How much: ￡8.5034. Van Peterson 925American designer Eric Van Peterson has lent his skills to Debenhams for the affordable Van Peterson 925 collection that includes this classic silver leaf clasp ring.Where: How much: ￡6035. NextChoosing a watch for your fitness routine doesn't have to mean wearing something bulky and unfashionable. Try this sports watch in a rose gold shade.Where: How much: ￡2236. Weekend by MaxMaraThis dual-stranded necklace is a ready-made option that nails the layering look. The mixture of wooden beads and silver strands work as a wear-to-work or out-for-an-evening piece.Where: How much: ￡8537. George at AsdaNext time you're in the market for a food shop spare a thought for in-house clothing brand George, where stylish pieces like this leaf bangle come in at not much more than a quick shop.Where: How much: ￡538. Erickson Beamon for Maria GrachvogelMaria Grachvogel has teamed up with American jewellery designers Erickson Beamon for several seasons. Try these deco drops for double the clout.Where: 0207 2459 331How much: ￡23539. AWearThis traditional multi-coloured brooch from high street retailer AWear can be pinned to a scarf for a jazzier look, or styled with a number of others to avoid the out-of-date connotations.Where: How much: ￡1540. Isabel MarantIsabel Marant is the not-so-secret favourite brand of the fashion world. The burnished effect and turquoise stone of this brass ring give it a vintage bohemian vibe.Where: How much: ￡5041. FossilWhite and gold combine to make a modern classic with this bezel multi-dial watch with water resistance up to 50 metres, making it an ideal choice for summer wrist-wear.Where: How much: ￡10542. Philippe AudibertThe Parisian jewellery designer is a trained sculptor, hence the architectural nature of his designs. This long chain knotted silver necklace will swiftly become a wardrobe essential.Where: How much: ￡9043. Marks & SpencerEvery jewellery box needs a thick gold bangle. This Marks & Spencer option works well with any outfit but is particularly effective with eveningwear in providing a dose of glamour.Where: How much: ￡7.5044. MonsoonA statement pair of earrings is an easy way to transform a daytime look for the evening. Team these pretty, blue-gem drop earrings with pulled back hair for fail-safe eveningwear.Where: How much: ￡1645. MarniFans of Italian label Marni's trademark bold prints will love this set of three patterned resin brooches. Wear them all together or mix and match for a more eclectic yet ultra-stylish look.Where: How much: ￡9746. Aurelie BidermannAn intricate gold-plated arrow crafted into a ring by French jewellery designer Aurelie Bidermann, whose romantic designs are high on many a jewellery lover's wish-list.Where: How much: ￡11347. GuessThis colourful watch's double wrap strap gives it a part bracelet, part time-telling-device function and it's right on trend in this season's popular tangerine shade.Where: How much: ￡7948. Red HerringTribal-inspired fashion is a key look this spring/summer and this gold-beaded necklace from Red Herring at Debenhams will see you seamlessly into the new season.Where: How much: ￡1849. Lara BohincFrom luxury accessories label Lara Bohinc this delicate heart charm bracelet will make an easy addition to your everyday wardrobe: it's simple and pretty without being overwhelming.Where: How much: ￡15050. Monica VinaderThese sterling silver drop earrings are in the trademark colourful style of Spanish designer Monica Vinader. And carnelian orange is one of this season's strongest shades.Where: How much: ￡90?2. Jonathan SaundersLook the part this summer with this multicoloured patchwork-print T-shirt from Jonathan Saunders, ensuring you're making the right sartorial statement.Where: How much: ￡1883. PersolPersol sunglasses were first designed for pilots. During the 1950s they were adopted by stars like Greta Garbo. This pair, with retro tortoise shell frames, also fold away.Where: How much: ￡2054. Oliver SpencerThis ankle boot, called the Kyak, is a fantastic alternative to the over-exposed deck shoe. It has the same rubber sole and heavy stitching but the shape and style is entirely different.Where: How much: ￡1295. Banana RepublicIf you're bag shopping on a budget then splurge your well-earned cash on this bright orange canvas shopper. It would look great with a suit in say grey or navy blue.Where: How much: ￡756. AcneThis chambray shirt has a curved placket giving it an interesting edge in comparison to other denim shirts. The patch pockets and brown buttons are a nice touch too.Where: How much: ￡1607. Ralph LaurenA coloured pair of chinos should form the basis of your summer wardrobe. Invest in this pair from Ralph Lauren and match with a crisp white shirt for an all-American vibe.Where: How much: ￡1008. Marc by Marc JacobsMustard is a tricky colour. This chunky pull over, with matching-leather elbow patches, should only be worn when your skin has a bit of a tan. If you are pale yet interesting, steer clear.Where: How much: ￡2199. M&SThe tasselled loafer is always an urbane choice for this time of year. This pair from M&S is inspired by stylish Italian gents holidaying on the Amalfi coast.Where: How much: ￡7910. J CrewChambray shorts are the perfect choice for the summer heat. Lightweight and cooling, they can be worn with smart brown shoes for a laid back but smart vibe.Where: How much: ￡7511. FolkFolk ignores catwalk trends and concentrates on fine tuning what we already have in our wardrobes. This woollen knit is perfect for spring like weather as it will layer over a T-shirt.Where: How much: ￡11212. HoganHogan's take on the traditional brogue adds a subtle sporty element. The uppers are made from the softest calf leather, and the soles from a white wedge of rubber.Where: How much: ￡22013. Beams PlusBeams Plus is a Japanese brand that was launched in 1999. This jacket has an American preppy feel to it but is made from the latest crease-resistant fabric. How very modern.Where: How much: ￡29514. Rag & BoneThe Hawaiian-print shirt is making something of a return to our shores this summer. This particular model has a pattern reminiscent of steamy nights in Miami.Where: How much: ￡13015. APCAPC has been making effortlessly cool clothes since 1987. It manages to give the expected a little twist of the unexpected. This T-shirt's multi-coloured pattern gives it joie de vivre.Where: How much: ￡6016. Margaret HowellIf you have cash to burn then take a look at this rucksack. Made from cotton canvas exclusively for the label by Yoshida & Co of Tokyo. There's only 30 of them hence the priceWhere: How much: ￡47517. Lacoste LiveThese plain-blue gabardine chinos are given a splash of colour by the tiny embroidered deck shoe motif. Very lively, so it's advisable to stick to a more neutral top.Where: How much: ￡13018. ASOSThese shorts have an authentic vintage feel and are cut to sit on the middle of the thigh. A perfect example of that washed out-pastel colour running through the menswear collections.Where: How much: ￡2219. Burberry ProrsumIf you fancy something a little homespun then you'll love the crochet detailing on the front of this sweater. It adds a sophisticated element to what could be humdrum knitwear.Where: How much: ￡55020. Mason Martain MargielaWear these two-tone brown leather shoes and you're buying into a brand that is the epitome of elegance and at the cutting edge of Parisian cool.Where: How much: ￡44521. Jonathan SaundersScottish designer Jonathan Saunders is known for vibrant colour and this turquoise-blue jacket is a prime example. It has a detachable hood and button cuff epaulettes.Where: How much: ￡72822. French ConnectionIgnore patterned shirts at your peril this year. Perhaps the easiest way to wear them is by adopting the polka dot. This version is an easy way to inject fun into your wardrobe.Where: How much: ￡4023. GivenchyThis season's collection from Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci was dominated by the bird of paradise print. The sleeves on this T-shirt are a simple way to wear this look.Where: How much: ￡37524. Jack SpadeIf you're in the market for a new wallet I recommend this anchor embossed leather number. It comes with a zipper fastening, and when opened there's room for credit cards and cash.Where: How much: ￡15025. AcneGive your weekend wardrobe a hint of Scandinavian style with these burnt-orange chinos from Acne. Zesty and refreshing, these will look great with a slim fit double-breasted blazer.Where: How much: ￡17026. Jack SpadeJack Spade has its roots in classic American sportswear. Buy in to this American dream by wearing these red shorts with a pair of classic white plimsolls.Where: How much: ￡13027. MarniItalian label Marni is known for eccentricity, so this knit is relatively simple. The bold stripes and colour tones give it an arts student kind of vibe ? albeit a very wealthy one.Where: How much: ￡34028. TopmanShorts that make a loud statement are always a welcome sight come summer. These thick blue stripe shorts from Topman will certainly get you noticed.Where: How much: ￡3029. PiomboThis Italian-based label does classic with a twist. This double-breasted jacket is smart and easy to wear. It's also made from 100 per cent linen, making it perfect for summer.Where: How much: ￡70530. Jack SpadeWith all the busy prints and patterns, this button down grey shirt will sooth the eyes. It has a worn in softness to the cotton, making it feel as if it has been part of your collection for years.Where: How much: ￡11731. Lacoste LiveThis imaginative print T-shirt is a jolly way to approach the coming summer. The cartoon street scene print even features the obligatory croc.Where: How much: ￡5932. H.E. by MangoThis striped belt with silver buckle from H.E. by Mango is perfect for casual shorts. An ideal accessory for the summer holidays.Where: How much: ￡19.9533. Farah VintageButtercup-yellow chinos might not be to everyone's taste but you'll be on to a winner by summer if you invest in a pair of these. They'll look perfect with a white T-shirt.Where: How much: ￡7034. River IslandIf vertical stripes just aren't your thing then head down to River Island. You'll then be able to get your hands on these horizontal-stripe shorts. The belt is also included. Bargain.Where: How much: ￡2535. JaegerIf you're looking for a fine gauge knit then here's one made from the softest cotton. This Breton sweat has a contemporary edge because of the colour of its contrasting stripes.Where: How much: ￡13036. J JeansJasper Conran's shoe collection for his Debenhams line goes from strength to strength. This brogue with a white-wedge sole is a popular trend. Wear these with a smart suit or jeans.Where: How much: ￡6437. ValentinoThis dark and moody take on the Hawaiian trend is not what you'd necessarily expect from Valentino, who is more noted for its tailoring. An impressive lightweight nylon jacket.Where: How much: ￡1,23838. Marc JacobsShort-sleeved shirts tend to get an unwarranted bad press. This floral print shirt with contrast collar is just what's needed if you're keen to adopt the 1950s trend this summer.Where: How much: ￡31439. WooyoungmiWooyoungmi clothes sculpt around the body almost like a second skin. This is expensive but from the contrasting neck line to the zip fastening, it is a detailed investment piece.Where: How much: ￡36940. CoachIf you're feeling very patriotic this year Coach has just the bag for you. This leather and canvas Bleeker bag comes in the colours of our national flag.Where: How much: ￡32041. FolkWe all need a classic pair of chinos for the summer. This beige pair might not seem much at first glance, but they'll carry you through from day to evening, from smart to casual.Where: from How much: ￡14042. Oliver SpencerI believe shorts are for weekends. If, however, you find yourself in an office where they are compulsory, this chambray pair hit the perfect balance between smart yet casual.Where: How much: ￡9943. AcneYou can rely on Acne for stylish basics. This red knit is made of lightweight cotton, the perfect type of yarn for warm weather. Wear by itself with a pair of flat-front khaki shorts and sandals.Where: How much: ￡19044. Penguin OriginalLaunched in Minneapolis in 1955, Penguin is known for its chinos and polo shirts. This orange lightweight duffle-inspired jacket is a prime example of their outerwear.Where: How much: ￡18545. ASOSIn collaboration with It's Nice That magazine, ASOS asked artists to design Hawaiian shirts. Michael Willis has used bold pastel coloured imagery with 1980s pop art influencesWhere: How much: ￡4046. FolkInspired by an Aboriginal piece of art, this dot T-shirt was made by the in-house team at Folk which means that you won't find anything else like it on the market.Where: How much: ￡6547. French ConnectionThis is a great trans-seasonal piece. Warm enough to keep spring chills at bay, but good for summer with just a T-shirt. It has an attractive check lining and hidden inside pocket.Where: How much: ￡10048. WooyoungmiLaunched in Paris in 2002, Wooyoungmi takes fashion very seriously but also has a sense of humour. These suede sandals are reminiscent of the Jelly Bean shoes of the 1980s.Where: How much: ￡15049. WolseyInspired by the traditional American college jacket with its shape and cut, but made from lightweight polyester for a sportier edge. Brass button fastenings are a highlight.Where: How much: ￡14950. Banana RepublicPea coats never seem to go out of style. This is a lightweight version from Banana Republic. Wear over a crisp white shirt and coloured chinos for a timeless look.Where: How much: ￡89?New City jobs total falls 17% in a yearThe number of new City jobs created in the third quarter of the year has dropped 17 per cent from the same period in 2010, says recruitment firm Astbury Marsden. Some 12,750 City jobs were created in the three months to the end of September, down from 14,900 a year ago.No September lift for high street gloomThe high street slump continued last month with retail sales falling 4 per cent, the steepest fall in demand since February 2009, according to BDO’s High Street Sales Tracker. Fashion stores had the biggest hit, with sales down 5.1 per cent.Sala in ￡52m merger with EDM GroupSala International has merged with rival document management business EDM Group in a ￡52m deal. Sala was backed by private equity house LDC, while EDM was backed by ECI Partners.LadbrokesAnalysts are betting on an update from the bookie about its bid for Sportingbet in its trading update on Thursday. A sticking point is likely to be the online group’s Turkish unit, which it wants to sell to Gaming VC.WH SmithThe stationery and books chain indicated in August that it was bucking the gloom seen elsewhere on the high street, leaving the City expecting its annual profits on Thursday will meet forecasts of about ￡93m.BurberryEven though fears over China’s growth prospects have seen shares in the upmarket fashion group Burberry retreat from all-time highs, analysts still expect a strong first-half update on Wednesday.?TV ad boosts sales at John LewisSales at the retailer John Lewis climbed 6 per cent week-on-week to ￡76.3m as its Christmas television campaign launched last week. The advert, starring seven-year-old Lewis McGowan gained 400,000 views on YouTube in just two days after being launched on Friday. Its first broadcast was during The X Factor on Saturday night.Insolvencies rise with council cutsThe number of care home businesses going bust has more than doubled over the past year, as they are hit by local council cutbacks and risingdebt worries. The accountant Wilkins Kennedy said 73 care home companies went into administration in the 12 months to the end of September, up from 35 in the previous 12 months. Contractors see fall in demand Demand for contractors has fallen 13 per cent year-on-year across theUK as fears of a double-dip recession intensify, according to the Association of Professional Staffing Companies. Its research shows that 57,191 contractor vacancies were advertised on job boards in September, compared to 66,340 in the same month last year.Companies face corruption risksFollowing the introduction of the UK Bribery Act, businesses must do more to ensure they have adequate procedures to prevent corruption amongexternal business partners, Ernst & Young warned. Companies must now demonstrate they have "adequate procedures" in place to address third-party risks ? including outsourced business.Business activity slows across UKGrowth in economic activity slowed across most regions in October, according to the Lloyds TSB regional Purchasing Managers' Index. The month-on-month slowdown was particularly marked in London and the South-East, with the latter recording the first fall in business activity since June 2009.Pressure grows on commercial rentsMore than half of commercial tenants have attempted to renegotiate the terms of their original leases in the last 12 months, according to Creditsafe. It said landlords are consequently being forced to downgradeforecasted revenues, with retail outlets most likely to ask to review their lease arrangements.Burberry Burberry is expected to report a leap in profits on Tuesday but analysts will be watching for signs that its stellar growth is starting to slow. The fashion house, famous for its red, black and camel check, is expected to post a 25 per cent rise in six-month profits to ￡161m, boosted by bumper sales in China and decent demand in the UK and US. Talk Talk TalkTalk is set to reveal on Tuesday that it lost more broadband users in recent months, despite efforts it has made to sort out customerservice problems since it bought Tiscali. City analysts predict that half-year profits will rise by 30 per cent to ￡91m, despite a 4 per centfall in revenues to ￡848m over the six months. easyJetBudget airline easyJet is seen cheering the market with a surge in profits on Tuesday as its strategy of boosting its appeal to business and short-break passengers starts to pay off. The airline expects full-year profits of up to ￡250m, versus ￡188m last year. The airline launched a new flexible fare in the period targeted at business travellers.Mothercare Mothercare's future in the UK will be at the heart of its half-year results on Thursday, when it is expected to unveil a slide in profits. The retailer, which has 353 UK stores and 969 overseas outlets, recentlywarned that underlying UK sales fell nearly 10 per cent. Its international arm, which is being expanded, has been keeping the firm afloat. ?Hunter wellies go to private equityHunter, the maker of upmarket wellies favoured by the likes ofKate Moss, has been bought by a private equity firm in a deal whichsees its current shareholders cash out part of? their? investments.Searchlight Capital Partners has taken a controlling stake inHunter from its existing four shareholders, including the fashiongroup Pentland.Partner to pay BP $250m over spillBP will receive $250m (￡161m) from Cameron International, acontractor on the Macondo well, in settlement of their dispute overliability for the Gulf of Mexico oil spill. Cameron made theblow-out preventer which proved ineffective on the DeepwaterHorizon rig. This is the fourth settlement BP has made with apartner in the project.National Grid loses US dealNational Grid has lost its $40m a year (￡26m) contract to runthe Long Island electricity system in New York state after 13years, amid an investigation into overcharging for its Americanservices. Britain's grid operator insisted there was no connectionbetween the inquiry and Long Island Power Authority's decision notto renew its contract.Burberry boss in shares giveawayBurberry boss Angela Ahrendts has sold ￡574,000 worth of sharesin the brand to give to the charity she set up along with herhusband, Gregg Couch. Ahrendts gave them to the Ahrendts-CouchFamily Foundation, which sold them at 1148p a share. The couple setup the private charity in the past few weeks to give to goodcauses.Playtech splashes cash on AshPlaytech is splashing out ￡23m to buy online games developer AshGaming, seriously enriching the London-based founder. Chris Ashfounded the business in 2002. The company's best-known titles areAmazon Wild and Madness House of Fun. In the year to April, it hadrevenues of ￡4.2m, with a profit of ￡2.6m.MF Global clients' positions in handAll but a tiny handful of MF Global UK's clients' positions havebeen closed or transferred since the London arm went under at theend of October, the administrators said last night. KPMG said ithad recovered ￡594m, or 82 per cent, of clients' money which hadbeen stuck when the firm collapsed.Tough market trips up ImacIngenious Media Active Capital, which is behind the Creamfieldsmusic festival and the BBC TV show Let's Dance, yesterday warned oftough market conditions as it lost more than ￡4m in six months.Imac, part of Patrick McKenna's media empire, said consumerconfidence had been hit by "austerity and tax rises".BlackBerry 10 launch delayBlackBerry maker Research in Motion has been forced to delay thelaunch of its BlackBerry 10. The phones were supposed to be on salein the first three months of 2012. It blamed the advanced chipsused. The company has had a difficult few months, with a serviceoutage knocking $40m (￡26m) off its net income.Laura Ashley sees sales grow 1.4%Laura Ashley said like-for-like sales increased 1.4 per cent inthe 19 weeks to December 10. Sales in the 45 weeks to the same datewere up 2.5 per cent, which suggests they have slowed since thefirst half, even though the fashion chain has closed fiveunprofitable stores in the year so far.PwC facing new investigationOne of the big four accountancy firms, PricewaterhouseCoopers,is under investigation by the profession's disciplinary board overits role as auditor to Barclays Capital. It is the second time thisyear that PwC has been referred to the Accountancy & ActuarialDiscipline Board following huge fines levied on its bankclients.?Adidas, supplier of Olympic kit for Team GB ? including cyclist Victoria Pendleton ? has slashed sales forecasts for its Reebok brand after it lost to Nike the rights to supply all NFL American football jerseys. The company also discovered fraud in its Indian business. Adidas chopped Reebok's targets by ?1bn to just ?2bnHMV woes mount in slow summer Loss-making retailer HMV blamed a "very quiet new release schedule" in music, DVD and games markets for poor summer sales. Like-for-like retail sales at HMV fell by 11.6 per cent over the 20 weeks to 15 September. The company, which has 243 shops in the UK and Ireland, suffered a loss of ￡16.2m for the year to April.Buyers circle Aer Lingus stake Ryanair chief executive Michael O'Leary said the low cost airline has received a number of approaches to buy its 30 per cent stake in Aer Lingus. Addressing shareholders at yesterday's annual meeting in Dublin, O'Leary said Ryanair had been approached by other airlines and financial institutions who wanted to break up Aer Lingus.G4S recovers in ScotlandBeleaguered security giant G4S has won its first British contract since failing to provide enough guards for the London Olympics. The ￡20m, five-year deal with the Scottish government to manage electronic tagging of offenders comes at a crucial time for G4S. It has already taken a ￡50m hit on the Games.BP eyes Rosneft share swoopOil giant BP yesterday said it was ready to invest in state-owned Russian rival Rosneft if the British firm sold its 50 per cent stake in troubled joint venture TNK-BP. BP said: "If we are successful in selling our stake in TNK-BP we would be interested in investing some of the proceeds in buying shares in Rosneft." Bloomsbury in Indian moveHarry Potter publisher Bloomsbury has launched its own imprint in India. Chief executive Nigel Newton has high hopes for Bloomsbury India, saying the country has "probably more of the book-buying demographic than that of the UK, US and Canada combined".British Land sells supermarketsBritish Land has sold seven supermarkets to a variety of investors for a total of ￡118m. The property group, which is the largest owner of supermarket buildings outside the retailers themselves, said all the sites had been sold at or above their March book value.Investec bankers sue for bonusesTwo former Investec bankers are suing the Anglo-South African financial services group for ￡6.3m in a claim for unpaid bonuses. Andrew Brogden, who ran the structured finance desk until 2011, and deputy Robert Reid have made the claim, which the bank said "had no merit". whatsoever." Achica breaks through 1m markAchica, the online homewares retailer set up by the co-founder of Asos, said its customer numbers have smashed through the 1 million barrier this month. The private members' site sells luxury brands at up to 70 per cent off via flash sales lasting 48 hours.Millar time as Richemont buysLuxury goods giant Richemont yesterday added upmarket leisure-wear brand Peter Millar to a wardrobe, which already holds Chloe clothes and Cartier jewellery. The deal for the brand comes weeks after a Burberry profit warning shook the sector. ?Britons switching from estimated bills to water meters havestopped United Utilities' profits rising as much as they could havefrom the new year's regulated price increases. United's chairman,John McAdam, said businesses are also using considerably lesswater.No child's play for toy makerDoctor Who toy firm Character warned yesterday that the retailsqueeze threatened to exterminate profits. Character, which designsand distributes toys from Scooby Doo to HM Armed Forces, blamedJubilee celebrations, Euro 2012 football, bad weather, the eurozonecrisis and the Olympics for consumers' unwillingness to spend ontoys.Russian court fines BP $3bnOil major BP's woes in Russia deepened yesterday after aSiberian court landed it with a $3bn (￡1.9bn) bill for damages overits failed tie-up with Rosneft in 2010. The claim ? which BP dubbed an "attempted corporate attack" ?was brought by Andrei Prokhorov, an investor in BP's Russian jointventure TNK-BP.Stiff sentences for insider tradersThe six men in the so-called "print room" insider trader ring,where a bank employee working in the print room of UBS stole secrettakeover documents so his friends could trade shares in thecompanies mentioned, were jailed for up to three-and-a-half years.The case cost the Financial Services Authority ￡5m.Samsung running rings round AppleSamsung's Galaxy smartphones are outselling rival Apple'siPhones by nearly two to one, leading to record second-quarterprofits for the Korean technology giant. Samsung said operatingprofits hit an all-time high of 6.7trn won (￡2.7bn) between Apriland June, 79 per cent above a year earlier.Carphone says phones too priceyCarphone Warehouse yesterday blamed the "lack of attractivelypriced smartphone products" at the cheap end of the mobile marketfor hurting sales. The retail group said the pre-pay marketcontinued to be "weak". Like-for-like sales at its subsidiary,Carphone Europe, fell 2 per cent to ￡776m in the quarter.Wing woe clips Airbus hopesAirbus yesterday admitted the launch of its new A350 passengerjet will be delayed by another three months because of wingproblems at the British factory making them. The new aircraft wasalready a year behind schedule and the latest delay will result ina charge of ?124m (￡97m).Apple in ￡229m fingerprint buyExpect the next generation of Apple tablets and iPhones toinclude fingerprint recognition technology. The company last nightlanded a $356m (￡229m) takeover of US fingerprint security firmAuthenTec in a deal that will see it explore ways in which it canimprove security.William Hill on a phones winnerWilliam Hill yesterday reported half-year profits up 13 per centon a year ago at ￡143.3m, with revenues gaining 11 per cent to￡627.8m. The results were partly driven by surging phone betting.Mobile revenues on sports were up 390 per cent in June.Burberry to take control in FranceBurberry will have full control of its make-up and perfumeranges when a near-20-year agreement with its licensee expires atthe end of the year. The luxury brand has ended talks with itsFrench perfume licensee Inter parfums.?City Link drags down RentokilRentokil Initial's attempt to jump-start its City Link parcels arm took a further knock yesterday after it posted more big losses for the Christmas quarter. The problems offset better trading in areas such as pest control, textiles and facilities services, leaving Rentokil annual profits down 4 per cent at ￡184m.Morrisons addsto its familyMorrisons has moved four senior directors to work on expanding Kiddicare, the maternity website that thesupermarket wants to take on and beat a struggling Mothercare and Tesco. It has also hired executives from Mothercare, Moda in Pelle, Autotrader and Boots as it prepares to grow. Emerging markets give IMI a liftThe engineering giant IMI has reported a better-than-expected 19 per cent increase in 2011 profits to ￡363m, and said it was on track for further growth this year, as strength in emerging markets and the US offsets weakness in Europe. The company makes valves for drink dispensers and generating equipment.Pretty Paris profit for Hammerson Hammerson, which last week announced plans to sell its London office estate in order to focus on retail, has booked a substantial profit on the sale of buildings it acquired in Paris' luxury retail quarter in 2005. The site, occupied by designer brands such as Burberry and Moschino, fetched ￡138m.Apple/Samsung cases dismissedA German court has dismissed two cases brought by Apple and Samsung against each other as part of a global battle to dominate the smartphone market. The court decision covered claims over "slide-to-unlock" features and are among a flurry ofpatent disputes worldwide.Building activity points to growth The economy is on track to bounce back this quarter after the building industry's strongest growthfor almost a year in February. The Chartered Institute of Purchasing & Supply/Markit index, where a score over 50 signals growth, hit an 11-month high of 54.3 last month, led by a revival in commercial building. Glaxo plans Japan vaccines ventureGlaxoSmithKline, Britain's biggest drug maker, has set out plans for a joint venture with Tokyo-based Daiichi Sankyo that will make it the largest vaccines company in Japan. The 50-50 venture will see new vaccines entering the Japanese market, known for its slow acceptance of drugs. iPhone supplier Laird profits soar Laird, the former shipbuilder that reinvented itself as a maker of parts for tablets and smartphones such as Apple's iPhone, saw a 31 per cent jump in profits to￡53m last year as revenues rose 19 per cent to ￡491m. Laird is still looking for a chief executive to replace Peter Hill, who quit due to illhealth last year.Profits take off at flight firm BBA The flight refuelling and ground handling firm BBA Aviation increased profits by 15 per cent to $170m (￡107m), despite slower than expected growth in key markets. The London-based company employs 10,000 people and generates three-quarters of its profits in US dollars.Masters of Wall StreetBlythe Masters, the British woman who runs JP Morgan's commodities division, has steered the department to record revenues exceeding $2.8bn (￡1.8bn) in 2011, more than long-time industry leaders Goldman Sachs and Morgan Stanley. ?The British former chief executive of Olympus, Michael Woodford, will receive ￡10m in a settlement over his dismissal for whistle-blowing at the giant Japanese cameras and medical equipment maker. Olympus disclosed the figure yesterday, following approval from its board of directors, after the settlement reached last week. Public expects inflation to riseThe Bank of England's dilemma over whether to stimulate the recession-hit UK economy has been sharpened further by a survey showing that the public expects inflation to hit 3.6 per cent in five years' time. Official figures, meanwhile, showed a fall in factory gate prices yesterday, which should feed through to lower consumer prices, as oil prices dropped. Ahrendts pockets ￡15.6m at BurberryThe Burberry, chief executive Angela Ahrendts pocketed ￡15.6m last year after she cashed in share awards and picked up a hefty bonus, following huge growth at the luxury fashion brand. Her pay totalled ￡3.69m, with ￡990,000 in salary and a bonus of ￡1.98m. She also sold ￡11.9m of shares, most of which were granted for free under incentive plans. Olympics boost for toy-maker HornbyAfter two profit warnings this year, the Airfix-to-Scalextric maker Hornby said yesterday that sales of its toys and badges for the Olympics were taking off. Analysts reckon Hornby could sell ￡7m of Olympics products ranging from Corgi models of London taxis and buses to pin badges of the mascots. Annual profits rose from ￡4.4m to ￡4.5m on sales of ￡64m.?Laura Ashley, the fashion-to-home furnishings chain, has shrugged off the consumer downturn and soggy April to deliver a strong rise in sales over the past 18 weeks. The High Street stalwart also made the bold forecast that it expects the recent growth in underlying sales to continue throughout the rest of this year.Mouchel's shares slumpMouchel, the infrastructure group that rejected a ￡170m takeover bid from Costain 16 months ago, yesterday said all the restructuring options it is looking at would result in "only limited value for existing shareholders". The shares fell 30 per cent to 4p, a far cry from the 153p a share Costain had offered.Goals bid gets extra timeThe potential takeover of Goals Soccer Centres moved into its third period of extra time yesterday. The Takeover Panel said at the request of the UK company it would give the Ontario Teachers' Pension Plan another month to continue going over the books. Analysts expect a bid of around 130p a share, valuing Goals at ￡60m.Airlines facing record lossEuropean airlines could post a record loss of $1.1bn (￡711m) this year, nearly double the forecast three months ago. The International Air Transport Association's (Iata) forecast reflects dampened demand as recessions in the UK and Spain and turmoil in Greece and elsewhere in Europe have seen would-be travellers stay put.Goldman's Gupta won't testifyFormer Goldman Sachs director Rajat Gupta will not take the stand this week, as his trial on insider dealing charges heads towards a conclusion. His lawyers had previously said it was "highly likely" that Mr Gupta would testify. As well as Goldman, Mr Gupta was also a director of Procter & Gamble.'RBS pension is unaffordable'Royal Bank of Scotland has been accused of making its pension fund "unaffordable" after around 42,000 members of its final salary pension scheme were told if they want to receive the full entitlement when they retire at 60, contributions must increase from zero to 5 per cent or they must work to 65.BAA refinances airportsThe airports operator BAA has completed a ￡2.75bn refinancing of its loan facilities for Heathrow and Stansted airports in London. The Spanish-owned group, which sold Edinburgh for competition reasons this spring, is still appealing against regulator's ruling it should sell Stansted.Boeing to sell 1,000 airlinersBoeing has pledged to sell 1,000 airliners this year, putting it on course to recover leadership of the $100bn (￡65bn) global jet market amid growing tensions with Airbus. Its European rival is targeting 600 to 650 orders, down from 1,608 in 2011 due to a fuel-saving version of its A320.Serco stumps up ￡55m for rivalSerco is paying ￡55m for the public sector arm of Vertex Data Services ? a rival outsourcing business. Vertex's customers include Westminster and Thurrock councils, and the Child Maintenance and Enforcement Commission and Job Centre Plus.Arcadia hires Burberry marketerSir Philip Green's Arcadia Group has appointed Burberry executive Justin Cooke as chief marketing officer of the fashion chain Topshop from September. He is expected to assist with the brand's global expansion plans, especially in digital marketing.?Tata Motors' global vehicle sales rose 13 per cent in August from a year earlier, the Indian company said yesterday, with sales at its Jaguar Land Rover subsidiary up 13 per cent, less than in recent months. Sales at the British brand, a key driver of its recent profit growth, rose 41 per cent in July, 39 per cent in June and 35 per cent in May.Russia to sell ￡5bn Sberbank stakeRussia launched the long-awaited sale of a $5bn (￡3bn) stake in Sberbank yesterday, reducing its controlling interest in Europe's third-largest bank. The sale of a near 8 per cent stake will boost the liquidity of Russia's most actively traded stock, widely viewed by investors as a proxy for economic growth running at 4 per cent.Greggs goes into military serviceGreggs has started a trial with the Naafi, the supplier of retail services to the armed services.The baker is supplying seven of its frozen savouries ? including sausage rolls, steak bakes, chilli bakes and sausage and bean melts ? initially to the British military base in Gutersloh, Germany, home to army helicopters and logistics. AllSaints raids Burberry for boss AllSaints, the fashion chain, has poached a director from Burberry to be its new chief executive. William Kim, who was the senior vice-president of retail and digital commerce at Burberry, will join private equity-owned AllSaints on 15 October. The clothing retailer has 65 stores and 35 concessions in the UK, Europe and US. HSBC signs deal with Post OfficeNine million current account customers of HSBC and First Direct will have access to their bank accounts at the Post Office from next spring. They will also be able to deposit cash and cheques in an agreement meaning 95 per cent of all UK debit cardholders will be able to access their cash at PO counters.Rip Curl to test water for buyoutThe Australian surfwear brand Rip Curl is the target of bids from private equity firms that could see it sold for up to ￡300m. This follows its rival Billabong receiving offers from two buyout houses. The company has appointed Bank of America Merrill Lynch to explore its options.Alvarez replaces Kelly at BT GlobalLuis Alvarez is to become the chief executive of BT Global Services, the business that forced the telecoms group to issue a huge profits warning four years ago. Mr Alvarez has been with BT for 12 years. He will take over from Jeff Kelly, who is returning to the US.FastJet ready to set up baseFastJet, a low-cost African airline backed by Lonrho, is to make its first base on the continent at Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania. It plans to offer flights priced from $20 (￡12) one-way in November.Its second base will be at Nairobi, Kenya, once its Airbus A319 has been licensed for use there. Lonmin reduces sales forecastLonmin has cut its sales forecast as it continues to be hurt by strikes at its mines in South Africa. The platinum miner now expects to sell between 685,000 ounces and 700,000 ounces of platinum for the year to 30 September, down from 750,000.Gas discovery by Falkland IslandsFalkland Oil and Gas has found gas off the coast of the Falkland Islands. FOGL, which is partnered by the US company Noble Energy and the Italian utility Edison, said more tests would need to be done to assess its commercial viability.?Machine-guns fell from favour in the City yesterday as manufacturer Manroy warned that a delayed ￡8m order would leave sales this year nearly ￡4m short of expectations. The firm hopes to have confirmation of the order by the end of September. Chief executive Glyn Bottomley said the delay was "obviously frustrating".UBS banker beats the FSA's rapThe Financial Services Authority suffered humiliation yesterday after a former UBS banker won an appeal against the watchdog which wanted to fine him ￡100,000 for failings at his division five years ago. John Pottage, who use to run UBS's wealth management operations in the UK, successfully argued he had behaved reasonably.Bowman new Miller chairConstruction company Miller Group has hired Philip Bowman, the veteran executive who heads Smiths Group, to be its new chairman. Bowman, who has previously been the chief executive of Scottish Power and is currently a senior independent director of Burberry, succeeds Sir Brian Stewart, who joined the company three years ago.HSBC's China view weighs on oilOil prices slipped after a report from analysts at HSBC showed manufacturing in China remains weak. Benchmark oil for June delivery was down 63 cents to $103.25 a barrel in electronic trading in Singapore yesterday. Meanwhile, Brent crude for June delivery was also in decline, down 56 cents at $118.20 per barrel in London.Jones lands a role on board of FlybeLord Digby Jones is joining the board of Flybe, Europe's largest regional airline, as a non-executive director. The former Trade Minister and director general of the CBI will pick up ￡46,000 a year, adding to his growing portfolio of boardroom and advisory roles. He said: "I am extremely excited."Rolls-Royce wins US military dealAircraft engine maker Rolls-Royce has won a $598m (￡371m) contract to supply the US military with 268 engines for its V-22 Osprey aircraft. Rolls-Royce will deliver 70 turboshaft engines, worth $151m, to the US Marine Corps and Air Force in the first year. The engines allow the tilt-rotor V-22 to take off and land.Greene King ready for summerThe Queen's Diamond Jubilee, Euro 2012 and the London Olympics will send both tourists and locals flocking to the nation's pubs. So said Rooney Anand, chief executive of pubco Greene King as the company unveiled a 4.6 per cent boost in sales in the 50 weeks to 15 April.Growth slows at StagecoachThe brakes were pulled on Stagecoach's bus and train growth in the UK between February and April. It saw ticket sales growth on its UK buses slow from 3 per cent in the 10 months to February to 2.7 per cent when the last two months' revenues were included.Falklands find is gas, not oilA potentially huge source of new hydrocarbons was opened up yesterday as explorer Borders & Southern struck "gas condensate" in the virgin territory to the south of the Falkland Islands with its first "wildcat" well. Shares fell 41.5p to 89.5p.New Zealand cash rate unchangedThe Reserve Bank of New Zealand should keep its official cash rate unchanged at 2.5 percent this week because of low inflation and a high currency, a newly formed group of economists, academics and business leaders said on Tuesday.?India unexpectedly cut its key interest rate by half a percentage point yesterday, in a bid to boost its sagging economy. Economists said its first rate cut in three years, however, may be its last for a while as inflation is likely to remain elevated near 7 per cent and growth ? currently just under 7 per cent ? is too low to create new jobs.Next boss's pay falls by 15%Lord Wolfson, the chief executive of Next, saw his pay fall 15 per cent last year, despite the retailer posting record profits and returns for shareholders. The Tory peer was, however, boosted by two long-term share awards worth ￡2.5m, although the Lord agreed with Next's remuneration committee to cap the total pay out at this amount.Diamond Jubilee boost for EurostarStrong bookings for the June bank holiday weekend around the Queen's Diamond Jubilee helped Eurostar sales rise by 7 per cent to ￡211m in the first quarter of this year. The Channel Tunnel rail link said most of its growth came from leisure travel, with business trips in the first quarter broadly flat compared with 2011.Vodafone ramps up appeal pressureVodafone has ramped up the pressure in its appeal against a $2.9bn (￡1.81bn) tax bill in India. Its Dutch subsidiary has issued a notice of dispute against the claim, saying the 2012 finance bill violated legal protections and harmed international investors. Vodafone's case dates back to its takeover of Hutchison Essar in 2007.Sales growth slows at BurberryBurberry reported a slowdown in quarterly sales growth in Europe, raising fears that global economic woes were catching up with the luxury goods maker. However, sales at the 156-year-old group still rose 18 per cent, passing ￡1bn in the past six months, and remained strong in the UK and China.Profits squeezed at Daily Mail groupShares in the Daily Mail's owner fell nearly 5 per cent yesterday after it warned that lower advertising revenues at its national newspapers business had squeezed its profits. Daily Mail and General Trust saw a 3 per cent decline in underlying ad revenues as well as higher print and promotion costs.German investor confidence risesGerman analyst and investor confidence rose unexpectedly in April to its highest level since June 2010, suggesting Europe's biggest economy may be recovering from a weak spell. The main reading from the ZEW monthly poll rose to 23.4 from 22.3 in March. William Morris sells well in JapanSales of William Morris designs in Japan jumped 46 per cent last year, helping the wallpaper and fabrics maker Walker Greenbank to post a 24 per cent rise in profits to ￡5.6m as sales rose 8 per cent to ￡74m. The current year has also started well with main brand sales up 7 per cent. Manroy wins US guns contractThe US arm of Sandhurst-based Manroy, which makes heavy machine guns, has secured a ￡6.6m contract with the US Department of Defense. The work stems from a larger order with Sabre Industries, whose assets Manroy bought in 2011.Rio Tinto hit by bad weatherRio Tinto reported worse falls than expected in iron ore and copper production in the first quarter after it was hit by bad weather. The miner, a key supplier to the Chinese steel industry, said production fell 11 per cent to 45.6 million tonnes in the period.?Burberry renews Inter Parfums linkBurberry is reviewing its 20-plus-year licence with France's Inter Parfums, which makes its fragrance and beauty products. The luxury goods company could buy back the current licence which runs to 2017, extend it or even bid for Inter Parfums. Sales of Burberry fragrances were ￡176m last year and are growing with the launch of Burberry Body. Rise in long-term joblessnessThe number of long-term dole claimants has risen by 35,000 since lastyear, according to an analysis of official statistics by the TUC. The steepest increases in long-term joblessness have been in Scotland and London. The number of people claiming jobseeker's allowance over Christmas will be 279,000, up from 243,000 last year. Banks climb down on travel chargesHigh street banks have agreed to scrap excessive plastic card chargeson travel money after a supercomplaint from Consumer Focus. The climbdown follows a three-month investigation by the Office of Fair Trading into the ￡1bn travel money industry. The move could save holidaymakers about ￡20m a year, according Consumer Focus. Politics beckons for MaslovskiyPavel Maslovskiy is to step down as chief executive of Petropavlovsk,the London-listed Russian gold miner formerly known as Peter Hambro Mining, after being elected as a senator in Russia's far east region of Amur. He will not completely sever ties with the company, which is stillchaired by Peter Hambro, his co-founder in the business.National Express on track for profitNational Express has grown revenue across all of its bus, train and coach businesses. Ticket sales rose 6 per cent at its rail unit, which includes the c2c franchise between London and Essex, while bus revenues grew 4 per cent. Analysts expect the transport operator to make a profitof ￡181m for the year. Olympus ￡800m plan 'desperate' The former chief executive of Olympus, Michael Woodford, has dismissed as "desperate" reports that the board which ousted him is now considering tapping rivals such as Sony and Fujifilm to raise ￡800m. TheNikkei said the plan was to attract new investors, possibly by issuing preference shares. SVG investors get ￡170m promiseSVG Capital has promised to return ￡170m cash to investors and loosenits ties with the private equity group Permira, which currently accounts for 80 per cent of its investment. The moves come in response to growing pressure to come up with ways to boost its share price. German business confidence boost Europe's economic engine Germany looks set to escape recession after asurprise rise in business confidence this month. The Ifo Institute said its business climate index saw the biggest rise in sentiment since February as firms reported improving prospects outside the eurozone. Simplyhealth pays ￡115m for DenplanSimplyhealth, the health payment plan provider, has agreed to buy Denplan from insurer AXA UK for ￡115m. Denplan serves more than 1.8 million patients in the UK. Simplyhealth recently bought Groupama's UK private medical insurance unit.BAE lands ￡40m drone contractBAE Systems has won a ￡40m four-year contract with the Ministry of Defence to ensure Britain retains a leading edge in the next generation of unmanned drone planes. It will work with the MoD to keep its unmannedair system strategy up to date.?Seasons have come and gone, and the clothes are as opulent as ever. A brief fling with minimalism and "stealth wealth" (the art of not looking like you've spent quite as much as you have) turned into a vogue for "investment pieces" (that is, lavishing cash on outre, statement clothing that would eventually become part of an archive).But what's the solution for the average fashion follower, whose income doesn't allow them to make expensive mistakes? Increasingly, shoppers are taking a turn toward that age-old solution, the capsule wardrobe.It's a vaguely threatening phrase often used to admonish the more haphazard among us, like photos of houses with no clutter or socks on the floor. But don't let that scare you off: a well-selected capsule of clothing can see you through all seasons and occasions without looking stale. In fact, you'll be more chic for not slavishly following the trends.Initially popularised by Donna Karan, who launched her "7 Easy Pieces" range in 1985, the concept was devised to make life as a busy, working woman and mother as easy as possible, segueing seamlessly from office scenarios to weekend wear and back again. While tastes may have moved on (the selection opposite contains a few more pieces for versatility), the formula and logic have not."Plan to buy several pieces on the same day so you can try them on together," says personal stylist Beth Dadswell. "And stick to a palette of neutrals, for endless outfit combinations."Clearly there are budget constraints ? and the items here are perfect world picks ? but these are universal and ubiquitous pieces available at all prices. Spend as much as your budget allows, as the logic of a capsule wardrobe is undercut by false economy. And don't forget to enjoy your new found fashionable freedom.The trenchA versatile classic for wet weather, warmer winters, cold springs and everything else in between. Burberry's version has becomethe benchmark, with its 156-year heritage and sturdy gabardine, cut to flatter any shape.The jeansWho has time for denim tribes? Don't be swayed by fads for skinnies or flares: choose a simple, slim-fitting straight-legged pair that will always look good. Remember, soft indigo denim is timeless, but sandblasted is not.The shirtA catwalk favourite almost as much as it is a wardrobe staple, a quality shirt works for every occasion. Silk softens things abit, and if you feel white is too starchy and severe, try a very pale pink or cream.The ankle bootIt's often the knee-highs that become classics, but there's nothing more useful than a great pair of ankle boots to wear with trousers, jeans, skirts and sundresses. Keep the heel low: this is about comfort, not cool.The ballet slipperThe shoe de nos jours thanks to Kate Moss and Sienna Miller, this cult Repetto model was favoured by Brigitte Bardot in the Fifties, and you can trust anything worn by a beautiful French woman to stay fashionable forever.The black jacketAs integral to your wardrobe as underwear, a tailored jacket can be worn with trousers, under a coat or as outerwear when the weather warms up. Opt for a slightly longer and more casual style so it doesn't look too much like half of a suit.The pencil skirtThe pencil skirt's has enjoyed some overdue time in the sun ? but it's a shape that never goes out of style. Choose one with a bit of stretch so you can sit down in it, and pair with a shirt or jumper, depending on how buttoned-up you're feeling.The black trousersIf tailoring feels too much like office uniform, choose fitted trousers ? you'll get plenty of wear out of them. Worn with more formal pieces, black trousers are a basic and, dressed down, are a chic alternative to denim.The T-shirtThe fast-fashion formula of simply buying the cheapest T-shirts doesn't work in the long run, as seams go wonky and hemlines shrink. Instead, pay for quality (grey will work with anything) and handwash to lengthen lifespans.The jumperCashmere may seem excessive but it lasts, as long as you take care of it. V-neck styles are classic, but plain crew necklines are easier to layer over other pieces; navy is the height of elegance, but black would work just as well.The sundressYou'll always need a sophisticated sundress in your arsenal, and this number from Margaret Howell is the just the right mix of utilitarian and feminine. Steer clear of too short or too tight; you'll go off them as you get older and wider.?We're not sure about: Post-poo dropsChoking on aerosol air freshener is never pleasant, so the idea behind these fragrant drops is to be commended. But the twee, blatant name is just a marketing step in the wrong direction for anyone out of short trousers.￡21, aesop.comWe're buying: YMCWith this weather it's mighty sensible to team a sundress with a pair of shades and a waterproof jacket ? though fashion might not be what those boy scouts were referring to with their motto. YMNC's current collection has plenty to offer for whatever the summer springs on us.Dress ￡175, youmustcreate.comWe can't wait for: Jubilee-tionsJubilee fever is certainly building, in retail circles at least, and Harvey Nichols new window displays are a lovely dedication to 60 years of Her Maj and the way our high streets have changed under her rule.For more pictures and a behind the scenes video click on the gallery aboveWe can't wait for: Disturbing LondonOne of the more dapper dressers on the music scene, Mr Tempah ? known as Tinie to his friends ? has launched a collaboration with EMI to produce a capsule collection of urban essentials.Prices start at ￡25, selfridges.com?We head straight to Via Farini for a stroll under the frescoed porticos. After a few inauspicious shops, Via Farini broadens as in an ode to fashion: Hermes, D&G, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Gucci, Burberry, Bulgari, Prada.Punishing The Benefactor's plastic won't be a problem here. Indeed, as I unleash the pair of them, my friend makes straight for Bulgari declaring she "absolutely adores everything on display".It is now 5.30pm, not exactly aperitivo o'clock, but what the heck: I know the perfect spot. A stone's throw from the shops we've just been raiding, Caffe Zanarini (00 39 051 27 50 041) is a Bologna institution, spreading out on Piazza Galvani with a dozen small tables covered by immaculate white table clothes. Within moments, a handsome young man in a navy blue waistcoat materialises at our table. I order three Spritz (Aperol liqueur, prosecco and soda).After the fourth round, it is decided by The Benefactor that I will spend the night at the hotel with my friend, as The Benefactor is leaving and the room is already paid for. For the same reason, it is also decided that I will go to Rome the next day with my friend for the weekend. I am sent home to change and pack, and then told to meet them at the restaurant for 7.30pm. I learn that a reservation had been made at Pappagallo (00 39 051 23 28 07; alpappagallo.it), right under the two towers.The high arched ceiling makes me dizzy, so I focus on the walls, covered in autographed pictures of the famous people who have dined here since the restaurant opened in 1919. We decide to order, amused to see that we have been given three ladies' menus (no prices).The Benefactor and her daughter opt for the inevitable tagliatelle al ragu bolognese (as all self-respecting hedonists will tell you, bolognese sauce is never served with spaghetti), while I try to impress everyone with goats' cheese ravioli with aubergines and thyme. After the second bottle of Merlot, The Benefactor abandons us, duly paying the bill on her way out. We force the last spoonful of white chocolate and liquorice mousse into our greedy mouths, then plan the next stage of our entertainment.Judging from the crowd gathering at La Capannina's bar counter (00 39 051 33 09 10; capannina.info), we're about 30 minutes from our mojito. Luckily, Italians have no concept of "queue", so I clasp my friend's arm and nonchalantly make my way through a sea of waxed chests and Gucci bags.The bartender winks and our drinks are soon safely in hand, so we walk away in search of a quiet spot. Easier said than done, as the music is a sad combination of Eurotrash and 1980s cheese (an unlikely soundtrack given the sleek decor). We ditch the prospect of another trip to the bar, and head instead towards a pair of suit-clad thirtysomethings brandishing a magnum of Veuve Clicquot. Hello, boys.Later, my friend and I hail a cab to Via dell'Indipendenza. Upon arrival ? and to my great surprise ? a doorman helps me out. This way, madam, and watch the steps, madam. Turns out we're staying at the Baglioni (00 39 051 22 54 45; duetorrihotels.com), the only five-star in town. I take a moment to soak up all the marble and velvet and Moroccan leather and shimmering chandeliers in the lobby, then climb on to the plushest of beds and sleep.Morning brings a closer look at the Baglioni (actually the Majestic since 2010, but everyone still calls it by the name of its founder): all stuccoed ceilings, damask wallpaper, gold-plated taps and rich carpets. But, frankly, what I'm really looking forward to is the breakfast, which doesn't disappoint. Then it's off to the train station for more of the same in good old Rome. But that's another story.?It's all in the bagLeather jelly bags and oversized granny purses provide a witty twist, or why not carry a more minimal envelope?Hand me the jewelsJewellery is increasingly ornate ? both delicate and dramatic. Pile on necklaces, bangles and more.If the shoe fitsFlames, fishnet and flats are all fashionable. Anything goes so long as it's extreme.?These have been pored over by our panel of expert judges, including two who represented their parties in parliament, two who have represented their countries at sports, a magazine editor, a comedian, four tireless campaigners and a HM Procurator-General, no less.We hope that the list surprises, entertains, challenges and inspires you. Please let us know what you think.1 (new entry) Elly BarnesMusic teacher, trainer, diversity officerWe asked you to nominate the unsung heroes and heroines who make a real difference to life for Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender (LGBT) people in Britain. And nominate you did. Dozens of people emailed The IoS to tell us about Elly Barnes, the teacher who claims the exceptional achievement of eradicating homophobia in her school, and is now helping others to do the same. Some of those who nominated Barnes had worked with her on her "Educate and Celebrate" course for teachers, PGCE students and psychologists, run under the auspices of Ofsted; others are students, past and present. One former pupil said this woman changed her life. Since 2005, she has been running LGBT History Month at Stoke Newington School, north London, every February. She says: "I've had pupils say, 'Miss, are you trying to turn us gay?' and I ask them, 'Do you turn black during Black History Month or Turkish during Turkish month?'." Barnes "came out" on Teachers' TV, and says: "It's ignorance that causes homophobia ? once educated, attitudes change. Sometimes it's a deep-rooted hatred which takes a long time to change. The best way is to show positive role models." We think she is one.2 (8 last year) Michael SalterBroadcast adviser to PM The judges singled him out for pushing gay issues inside Downing Street. Some may say Nick Boles (see no 25) has had more influence on David Cameron over the years, yet Salter's current position at the heart of government must be recognised.3 (new entry) Jessie JMusician The singer-songwriter has become a recording force since bursting on to the scene late last year, winning four Mobos while holding court on subjects as diverse as materialism and bullying. She has taken to task any attempts to sensationalise her bisexuality; as she says: "Whoopie doo, guys... get over it."4 (judge) Clare BaldingBroadcaster Last year's Pink List judge is as easy fronting events as she was formidable in responding a year ago to A A Gill's teeth-grindingly backwards description of her as a "dyke on a bike" when reviewing her BBC 4 show Britain by Bike. In a civil partnership with radio newsreader Alice Arnold (see 79).5 (10)Sue PerkinsComedian and TV presenter The genial comic has seen her career rise like a souffle this year thanks to her presenting stint on cult TV triumph The Great British Bake Off. Elsewhere, she has continued to thrive on Radio 4, while softening the blow of Times restaurant critic Giles Coren in their series, The Supersizers Eat ....6 (4) Evan DavisRadio 4 Today presenterAs well as playing good cop to Today's John Humphrys, with his soft grilling technique, the 49-year-old former economics editor also appears on TV, hosting Dragons' Den and a three-part investigation of the economy, Made in Britain. Gossip columns are obsessed with his body piercings.7 (return) Antony CottonActor Cotton is in his ninth year playing Coronation Street machinist Sean Tully, who remains TV's best-loved gay character. Off screen, he has been a staunch campaigner for gay rights. Earlier this year he branded the PM "out of touch" over a proposed ban on showing same-sex kisses on pre-watershed TV.8 (new entry) Charlie CondouActor ... and it's a Corrie double in the top 10, thanks to the dishy thesp who plays Cotton's on-screen boyfriend, Marcus. In real life, a figurehead for same-sex parenting, Condou is about to have his second child with his partner, Cameron, and their female friend Catherine. 9 (12) Scott MillsRadio and TV presenter Thanks to his sharp-wittedness and deceptively light touch, the award-winning drive-time DJ remains one of Radio 1's biggest draws. More than just a cheery voice, he showed courage in confronting Uganda's endemic homophobia for a recent BBC 3 documentary The World's Worst Place to be Gay?10 (40) Heather PeaceActress and singer With 255 nominations in our public voting process, Peace was by far the most popular with you. Yorkshire-born, she has played gay and straight characters in shows such as Emmerdale, The Bill and Lip Service. She is also a classically trained pianist.11 (13) Christopher BaileyChief creative officer, Burberry Alongside two powerful women, chief executive Angela Ahrendts and finance director Stacey Cartwright, Bailey has turned Burberry into one of the darlings of the UK-listed sector ? as well as the fashion scene. Its share price has more than quadrupled since the start of 2009. Bailey, as part of the team that moved Burberry away from associations with downmarket rip-offs of its famous check, is credited with turning the brand into one of the most desired British design houses, popular in the Far East and Europe.12 (new entry) Steven DaviesCricketer Steven Davies became the first international cricketer to announce he is gay. The 25-year-old wicketkeeper/ batsman came out earlier this year in an interview with The Daily Telegraph. Davies has played one-day and Twenty20 cricket for England since making his debut in 2009.13 (11) Simon HughesDeputy leader, Lib Dems Outside government, but influential as Nick Clegg's deputy and the "conscience" of his party. Kept his sexuality private for years until he was outed by The Sun. Argued that civil partnerships should have the same status as marriage long before David Cameron. 14 (27) Nick HerbertPolicing minister The most senior gay Tory is now the Prime Minister's go-to guy when he risks falling out with allies on equality issues. Maintains that gay rights are completely compatible with Conservatism. Attended Warsaw's EuroPride rally to persuade the Polish Law and Justice party to moderate its hard-line stance.15 (17) John BarrowmanActor and singer The unstoppable hunk powers on: he gleamed brighter than ever in the glossy American co-production Torchwood: Miracle Day, flaunting Captain Jack's gay "mortal needs". Then there's the tour, the accompanying best-of CD, the men's beauty range, the forthcoming co-authored children's novel....16 (76) Will YoungSinger Ten years on from Pop Idol, in August the debonair crooner confirmed his position as our most successful TV talent-show graduate with his third No 1 album, Echoes. Increasingly vocal about matters of sexuality, he was also recently given the accolade of his own A Night With... special on ITV 1.17 (19) James WhartonSoldier The military man who became a pioneer for gay soldiers after appearing on the cover of Soldier magazine in 2009 alongside the slogan "Pride" continues to be a role model for gay people in the Army. Last year, his civil partnership was hosted at the Household Cavalry's Knightsbridge barracks.18 (20) Michael BishopBusinessman Baron Glendonbrook, the ex-chairman of BMI, started out as an airline baggage handler. His success at the company's helm led to a ￡223m sale to Lufthansa in 2009. Sir Michael now sits in the House of Lords, on the Conservative benches, and continues to be a prominent voice for gay rights.19 (new entry) Julian GloverPM's speech-writer Exited The Guardian this month to become David Cameron's speech-writer, leaving the paper without a right-wing voice. Also known as Matthew Parris's other half (they entered a civil partnership in 2006), he is just as influential, credited with steering The Guardian away from Labour at the 2010 election.20 (55) Matthew ToddEditor of Attitude Goes up 35 places after he made Attitude the first gay magazine not to carry chatline or porn ads. Todd won plaudits for highlighting mental health issues and became the first gay man nominated for the industry's Editor of the Year in the mens' mag category. His guide on how to be gay and happy is out next year.21 (89) Chris BryantLabour spokesman The MP began pursuing Rebekah Brooks and News International back in 2003; this year, his quarry was finally hunted down over phone-hacking. Well liked on all sides of the House, has also been a passionate campaigner over teenage pregnancy ? which is high in his Rhondda constituency.22 (1=) Mary PortasRetail marketing consultant During down time at her day job, running the PR firm Yellow Door, Portas advises the Government on how to save the British high street. Her findings are due next month. In her recent Channel 4 series, Mary Queen of Frocks, her partner, fashion journalist Melanie Rickey, features every week.23 (6) Alan CarrComedian In Jonathan Ross's absence, Carr's Chatty Man chat show began pulling in all the top A-list celebrities. Despite being openly gay, he plays down the influence of his camp persona, once saying: "Just because you're gay and on the telly doesn't mean you're a role model. I'm just a comedian."24 (23) Neil MacGregorMuseum director Saint Neil continued faultlessly as director of the British Museum, picking up the ￡100,000 Art Fund prize on behalf of his employers for the brilliantly inclusive A History of the World in 100 Objects project, as well as initiating yet more upmarket blockbuster exhibitions.25 (return) Nick BolesMP A rising Conservative moderniser and strong supporter of David Cameron. Having failed to win election as an openly gay candidate in Hove in 2005, he succeeded in safe Tory Grantham last year. Briefly Boris Johnson's chief of staff in 2008, he ran the Policy Exchange think-tank.26 (25) Terence EthertonJudge Lord Justice Etherton, a past Olympic fencer, continues to preside in the Court of Appeal of England and Wales, the first openly gay judge to hold the post. Following his visiting professorship at Birkbeck College, London, last year, Sir Terence was this year made an honorary professor at Kent University.27 (63) Clare DimyonActivist Made an MBE in 2010 for "services to promoting the rights of lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender people in central and eastern Europe". In 2008, the seemingly inexhaustible Quaker campaigner persuaded British embassies throughout Europe to raise the rainbow flag for the first time.28 (new entry) Sarah BrownCambridge City Councillor Brown is the only "out" transgender activist serving as an elected politician in the country. She won a place on Cambridge City Council in 2010 and is a current member of the executive of the LGBT Liberal Democrats. She also chairs the organisation's transgender working group.29 (56) Gok WanBroadcaster "It's all about the confidence," is a typical Gok maxim, and that determined positivity has been at the root of the How to Look Good Naked presenter's war against size-zero "perfection". Having written several books of the "work that look" variety, he has just branched into fashion design for Sainsbury's.30 (new entry) Jonny OatesChief of staff to Nick Clegg The former Liberal Democrat director of policy and communications is one of the most influential unelected Lib Dems in government. However, as a former deputy leader of Kingston-upon-Thames council, he is that rare thing in politics ? a spin-doctor with experience of the grassroots.31 (61) Val McDermidCrime writer The bestselling "Tartan Noir" author's early novels, published nearly 25 years ago, introduced the UK's first openly lesbian detective, but even a decade ago she was still being told that a book with a lesbian theme was "commercial suicide". The multi-award-winning Trick of the Dark put paid to that notion.32 (9) Nicholas HytnerProducer and director Artistic director of the National Theatre since 2003, Sir Nicholas, 55, must be a happy trouper: One Man, Two Guvnors, (directed by Hytner) is another West End hit to follow War Horse, allowing him to offset Arts Council funding cuts. Too bad that Tori Amos's musical, for next spring's season, has just been shelved.33 (83) Jane HillNewsreader A daytime newsreader on BBC News 24. She came out in 2009 in the Corporation's in-house magazine, Ariel. Just under a year ago she contributed a video for Stonewall's "It Gets Better" campaign to inspire hope in young people suffering harassment.34 (66) Stella DuffyWriter, actress, campaigner Prolific writer and playwright turned political campaigner. Duffy looks set to break through into the big time with her latest novel, Theodora: Actress, Empress, Whore. If that were not enough, she's currently developing a large-scale theatre project and two new feature film ideas.35 (new entry) Christine BurnsActivist A leading figure in achieving legal recognition (passports and marriage) for trans people, Burns was one of the first to receive a certificate recognising her gender under the Gender Recognition Act 2004. She moved away from frontline activism four years ago, to mentor younger activists.36 (national treasure) John BrowneBusinessman Lord Browne made BP one of the world's most profitable companies before he was forced to step down after press revelations over his private life. Despite impressive achievements, he may be best remembered for the Browne review, which recommended lifting the cap on university fees.37 (37) Steve ReedLeader of Lambeth Council Under the leadership of Labour councillor Reed, Lambeth Council moved quickly from a one-star to a three-star rating under the Audit Commission's inspection. Reed is regarded as a powerful figure in London politics, not least because he managed to win back Lambeth from the Tories' grip in 2006.38 (new entry) Jennifer FearCEO, Step Forward Step Forward, a young people's charity operating in east London, recently beat 420 charities to the prestigious GlaxoSmithKline Small Charity of the Year award. Step Forward helps young people in one of Britain's most deprived areas, working with LGBT issues as well as HIV support groups.39 (35) Eileen GallagherCEO, Shed Productions As founder of Shed Media, creators of Footballers' Wives, Gallagher helped bring the company transatlantic success with a ￡100m takeover by Time Warner, netting ￡3.8m for herself. Now chief exec of the subsidiary Shed Productions, she manages work on programmes such as the BBC's Waterloo Road.40 (38) Mark GatissActor and writer The ex-League of Gentlemen star is as busy as ever, with scripts for Doctor Who, an appearance at the National and a superlative documentary series on the history of horror among his recent achievements. His and Stephen Moffatt's much-loved Sherlock Holmes reboot returns to BBC 1 early next year.41 (39) Adrian FulfordJudge As Britain's first openly gay judge, Sir Adrian Fulford made history. One of the most respected judges in the country, he presided over the 2005 London bombings trial, as well as those of major terrorist plotters, such as Saajid Badat. He has sat in the International Criminal Court since 2003.42 (46) Matthew ParrisTimes columnist Writing brilliantly about anything from politics to shower gel, Parris recently raised the important issue of why it's an overrated waste of time (shower gel, not politics). The ex-Tory MP says he failed at six careers before giving journalism a try. 43 (53) Sue SandersHuman rights advocate As co-chair of Schools OUT, a group which pioneers LGBT awareness teaching in schools, Sue Sanders has been instrumental in combating homophobia in the classroom. She also helped establish LGBT History Month, which she co-chairs. Her career has been dedicated to quashing prejudice.44 (new entry) Christian JessenPhysician and TV presenter In his role as a doctor and presenter of TV shows far better than their titles suggest, such as Embarrassing Bodies and Supersize vs Superskinny, Dr Jessen has become the kind and handsome face of the medical profession. He is also ambassador for Pride London's "Health and Well-being" campaign.45 (29) Alan DaveyCEO, Arts Council Davey has had a difficult year after the Arts Council's budget fell by 29.6 per cent. He has vocally lamented the "significant impact" such cuts will have on cultural life in Britain. When, in 2008, grant applicants to the council were asked to state the sexuality of their boards, Davey met with criticism.46 (34) Matt LucasActor and comedian The mockumentary series Come Fly with Me met with mixed reviews and the 37-year-old announced that he and his Little Britain partner David Walliams were parting amicably. So it's fitting that Lucas is seeking pastures new: his turn in Les Miserables was a success and he's moving to Los Angeles.47 (64) Russell T DaviesTV producer and writer Davies's new Los Angeles life suits him: the Doctor Who spin-off Torchwood: Miracle Day was well received on both sides of the Atlantic and the writer recently hinted that he may have one more Torchwood in him. More intriguing is a gay drama he's developing for the US, by the working title of Cucumber....48 (95) Jonathan HarveyStage and screen writer The keeper of Coronation Street's gay flame is steering the soap towards its first civil partnership later this year, and developing gay-parenting and lesbian storylines. Manchester's Royal Exchange is next month to stage a revival of his 1993 hit Beautiful Thing. 49 (87) Russell ToveyActor The former History Boy has become the veritable face of BBC 3 recently, thanks to the successes of supernatural series Being Human and relationship comedy-drama Him & Her. In his own words, his blokey Essex boy demeanour continues to "sort of challenge people's perceptions of what a gay man is".50 (47) Derren BrownIllusionist His mind-bending performances continue to grow in scale, becoming more controversial as the years go by. This year's The Experiments, first broadcast last week, saw Brown attempt to hypnotise an unwitting member of the public to "assassinate" a celebrity. Brown first came out as gay in The IoS in 2007.51 (100) Joe McElderrySinger The 2009 X Factor winner, who came out the day before last year's Pink List, was crowned king of the reality TV show Popstar to Operastar this summer with more votes than the other contestants combined. He received dozens of nominations in our public poll, too.52 (new entry) Simon HopkinsonChef It's been a great year for the chefs' favourite chef and author of the seminal cookbook Roast Chicken and Other Stories. Known to his friends as "Hoppy", and one of the nicest men in food, he has moved from cult concern to mainstream hot property with his seven-part BBC 1 series The Good Cook.53 (new entry) Lynette NusbacherStrategist and historian Nusbacher has been senior lecturer in war studies at Sandhurst since 1999 and is a partner in the strategy think-tank Nusbacher Associates. She has spent three years on loan to the Cabinet Office as devil's advocate to the Joint Intelligence Committee and as head of the Strategic Horizons Unit.54 (67) Susie OrbachPsycho-analyst and writer The author of What Do Women Want? and Fat is a Feminist Issue has made a career out of explaining the mysteries of modern womanhood. After 30 years with Joseph Schwartz, with whom she has two children, Orbach is now in a "post-heterosexual" relationship with writer Jeanette Winterson.55 (5) Carol Ann DuffyPoet Laureate Being Britain's Poet Laureate means no issue is too small or lofty: from David Beckham's Achilles tendon and Will and Kate's wedding, to the banking crisis and the First World War. By using accessible language and addressing issues such as violence, gender and oppression, Duffy's poems have become popular in schools. Her collection The Bees was published this month.56 (new entry) Eddie MairBroadcaster One of the BBC's most accomplished news broadcasters, Eddie Mair makes Radio 4's PM show into something far more entertaining than an ordinary news bulletin. As the sole presenter of the show since 2003, he has won many awards. He was also an occasional presenter of BBC 2's Newsnight.57 (50) Allegra McEvedyChef During more than 20 years in the business, McEvedy has proved herself as chef, food columnist, TV presenter and restaurateur, co-founding the award-winning healthy fast-food chain Leon. Her latest book, Bought, Borrowed & Stolen, is an engaging compendium of recipes collected during her travels.58 (14) Dominic CookeTheatre director Cooke's reign at the Royal Court remains steady, with rave reviews for a recent revival of Arnold Wesker's Chicken Soup with Barley and a second West End run for its runaway new-writing success Jerusalem. His production of The Comedy of Errors with Lenny Henry opens at the National next month.59 (51) Mandy McBainRoyal Navy officer The most senior openly gay officer in the Royal Navy, with 20 years' service, Lieutenant Commander McBain was last year involved in averting a bomb hoax on HMS Excellent. She helped to create the Navy's first Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Forum, which she chairs.60 (22) Phyllida LloydDirector A low-profile but industrious year for the director of Mamma Mia! (musical and film) ? while the Royal Opera House successfully revived her 2002 production of Macbeth, the 54-year-old Lloyd was on set directing her much anticipated Margaret Thatcher biopic, The Iron Lady, starring Meryl Streep.61 (new entry) Michael KingPsychiatrist After completing his medical studies in New Zealand, King came to the UK to continue his training. Professor King has been interested in the well-being of LGBT people for more than 20 years and established the Royal College of Psychiatrists' special interest group in gay and lesbian mental health in 2001.62 (54) Tim Hely HutchinsonCEO, Hachette Livre UK An old Etonian and son of an earl who also went to Oxford, he is now the group chief executive of Britain's largest publisher. He started his career penniless, but now one in six British books is produced by this popular publishing heavyweight. 63 (65) Guy BlackDirector, Telegraph Group The first openly gay Tory peer, Lord Black made his maiden speech last July, about the role of older women in society. He is a former director of communications for the Conservatives, and has been in a civil partnership, since 2006, with Prince Charles's former deputy private secretary, Mark Bolland.64 (new entry) Phyll Opoku-GyimahMD, UK Black Pride Co-founder of the UK Black Pride movement and poster-girl of the black LGBT scene, Opoku-Gyimah is a civil servant by day. A past winner of the Black LGBT Community Award, she also campaigns for equality in the workplace through her seat on the TUC race relations committee.65 (77) Alan DuncanDevelopment minister Rich and outspoken MP who became a minister under the coalition last year and is still there. Although the left is suspicious of someone who made his money in the oil industry, he earns admiration for hard work and a sharp mind. First openly gay Conservative MP, coming out in 2002.66 (58) Ravi MirchandaniPublisher/editor After a soaring career trajectory that took in Macmillan, Penguin, Orion and Random House, the Cambridge history graduate is now editor-in-chief of Atlantic books, a hard-hitting independent publisher that had one book on this year's Man Booker shortlist. 67 (60) Philip HensherWriter and teacher Reviewing Hensher's latest novel, King of the Badgers, in this paper, D J Taylor wrote: "As ever, one is struck, and seduced, by a coruscating intelligence...." Hensher teaches creative writing at the University of Exeter, as well as being a popular and challenging commentator.68 (42) Angela EagleLabour spokeswoman She was a junior minister for five years under Tony Blair and returned to the frontbench under Gordon Brown. Elected to the Shadow Cabinet last year, she is currently Shadow Leader of the Commons. The first lesbian to come out while an MP, her civil partnership with Maria Exall began in 2008.69 (new entry) Jay StewartCo-founder, Gendered Intelligence Having chaired FTM London, a support group for trans men, from 2004 to 2007, Stewart is now working on a PhD exploring trans identities as depicted in television. He organised the Trans Community Conference 2011. Gendered Intelligence works to support young trans people and their families.70 (62) Patrick StrudwickJournalist A contributing editor at Gay Times and broadsheet newspaper columnist, Strudwick uncovered the industry of therapists offering gay-to-straight "conversions" in an article for The Independent. He is the British winner of the EU Journalist Award, as well as Stonewall Journalist of the Year.71 (24) Waheed AlliTV producer and peer Media entrepreneur and Labour peer Baron Alli is also chairman of the successful online retailer Asos, and has a hand in a socially responsible mining project in Guyana. He has been central in the push to allow religious premises to hold civil partnerships. 72 (new entry) Jim MacSweeneyBookshop owner Sadly, the only bookshop looted during this summer's riots, Gay's the Word quickly bounced back with the help of the local community. MacSweeney came from Cork in 1984 and set up the UK's only dedicated lesbian and gay store in Bloomsbury, central London. 73 (new entry) Evelyn Asante-MensahChair, NHS Manchester Asante-Mensah was appointed chair of NHS Manchester in 2006. Until 2010, she was head of equality and economic inclusion for the Northwest Regional Development Agency where she led on research examining the economic participation of LGBT people in the North-west.74 (new entry) Simon BlakeChief executive, Brook As CEO for the country's leading young people's sexual health charity, Brook, Blake is leading a national campaign demanding relevant sex and relationship education for all pupils in school. He is on the Government's sexual health forum and has advised Parliament on teenage pregnancy.75 (new entry) Paul MartinChief executive, Lesbian and Gay Foundation Recently nominated by Stonewall as Hero of the Year for his work at the Lesbian and Gay Foundation, Martin is also deputy chair of NHS Manchester and chair of The National LGB&T Partnership, a network of LGBT community groups that works to reduce health inequalities within public services.76 (52) Peter MandelsonFormer politician He may be gone from front-line politics, but the man who had two resurrections in government is never far away. Lord Mandelson is enjoying life after the Cabinet as an adviser to Lazard, but some believe the PM wants him to get a big international post, possibly with the World Trade Organisation.77 (33) Dawn AireyTelevision executive Airey's career in commercial television began in 1985 after failing to land a BBC traineeship. Rising to become CEO of Channel 5, she left for BSkyB in 2002 before rejoining in 2008. Richard Desmond's takeover prompted her departure two years later but she remains a leading industry figure.78 (48) Stephen DaldryDirector and producer Daldrey is beavering away ahead of a big 2012: his version of Jonathan Safran Foer's Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close will be released; he part of the team devising the Olympics' opening and closing ceremonies, and there are rumours he's working on a Broadway version of Disney's Dumbo.79 (86) Alice ArnoldBBC Radio 4 announcer A trained actress and former magistrate (for 10 years), the popular Radio 4 announcer and Today newsreader entered a civil partnership with Clare Balding in 2006. The pair (along with their dog, Archie, and their mild Sharon Gless fixation) are possibly the most popular couple on Twitter.80 (74) Lionel BlueAuthor and commentator A Radio 4 regular on Thought for the Day, Rabbi Lionel Blue was the first British rabbi to say publicly he was gay and published Godly and Gay in 1981. A popular occasional contributor to the Today programme for more than 30 years, he is from a Jewish family in London's East End.81 (75) Nick PartridgeAids activist Sir Nick's activism concerning the British health service and Aids has generated much media coverage in the past two decades and saw him awarded a knighthood in 2009. As CEO of the Terrence Higgins Trust in the past year, he has raised awareness of the importance of testing for HIV.82 (judge) Ben BradshawPoliticianThe first cabinet minister in a civil partnership, the Exeter MP missed out on a Shadow Cabinet seat but has grown into the role of wise, witty backbench veteran. Unflinchingly loyal, and willing to go on Farming Today or Newsnight to defend his party. A return to the frontline cannot be ruled out.83 (78) Mark AbrahamsRAF squadron leader Wing Commander Mark Abrahams helped establish and chairs the RAF LGBT Forum. It holds conferences alongside London Pride and meetings with senior RAF officials. He flew Chinook helicopters for 20 years, including tours of duty in Afghanistan, and is the RAF's most senior serving gay officer.84 (15) Michael GrandageDirector and producer It's been a fitting final year for the revered artistic director of the Donmar Warehouse, which included Derek Jacobi's celebrated Lear. The 49-year-old's final production will be Richard II in December. He'll then leave subsidised theatre ? first up, a new Don Giovanni at New York's Metropolitan Opera.85 (new entry) Roz KaveneyAuthor and activist A poet and novelist, Kaveney says that she was born Catholic, but got over it, and was born male, but also got over it. She writes about pop culture and publishes fiction. She wrote an unofficial companion to Buffy the Vampire Slayer and is now working on a memoir.86 (new entry) Kelvin HoldsworthDean of Glasgow Cathedral The Very Rev Kelvin Holdsworth of the Scottish Episcopal Church, Provost of St Mary's Cathedral Church in Glasgow, has been critical of a Roman Catholic campaign against gay marriage. In October he said the comments of a Catholic bishop that same-sex union was not marriage were "embarrassing".87 (new entry) Jackie CrozierDirector, Manchester Gay Pride After six years at the helm of one of the longest-running Pride events in the country, Crozier has led the festival to a number of awards over the years. She is stepping down from next February but is set to continue her work in events and fundraising for the LGBT community.88 (New entry) Nigel OwensRugby referee Nigel Owens was one of the three officials for this morning's Rugby World Cup Final in New Zealand. He is the only international rugby union referee to come out, and did so in 2007. Owens, 40, from Llanelli, is a former school technician and youth worker. He was appointed to the international referees' panel in 200589 (85) Paul BurstonWriter This year's anthology Men and Women, a new collection of stories about gay and lesbian love, follows his hugely popular 2010 book Boys & Girls. He was recently shortlisted for Journalist of the Year at the European Diversity Awards, and his literary salon Polari announced a new literary prize.90 (new entry) Daniel WinterfeldtInterlaw Diversity Forum Working as a US Securities lawyer by day, Daniel Winterfeldt is also the founder and co-chair of the Interlaw Diversity Forum for LGBT Networks, a forum for the legal sector with more than 1,000 members and supporters from 70 law firms and 40 corporates and financial institutions. 91 (45) Richard HeatonDirector General for Pensions and Transformation, DWP After stints in the Cabinet Office, Home Office and the Attorney General's office, Heaton became the most senior lawyer at the Department for Constitutional Affairs before joining the DWP. As the top lawyer for two large Whitehall departments, he is at the heart of delivering Government strategy.92 (92) Rikki Beadle-BlairWriter and performer A man of many talents, Rikki Beadle-Blair describes himself as a performer, writer, director, composer, choreographer, artist, activist, CEO and mentor. His latest play, Shalom Baby, at Theatre Royal Stratford East, looks at inter-racial pairings in both gay and straight relationships. 93 (84) Iain DaleBlogger Dale replaced his politically insightful and influential nine-year-old blog in July with a "mega blog", featuring more than 100 contributors. The 49-year-old is author of more than 20 books, with this year's crop including Prime Minister Boris and Other Things That Never Happened (But May Yet Do So). 94 (new entry) Katherine O'DonnellJournalist O'Donnell is night editor of The Times in Scotland. As a senior Times journalist since 2003, she has been instrumental in promoting positive coverage of transgender issues in various organisations under the auspices of News International? the knock-on effects of which are incalculable. 95 (72) Jackie KayPoet and novelist Burst upon the literary scene in 1991. Jackie Kay's latest memoir, Red Dust Road, traces search for her Scottish and Nigerian birth parents, echoing her first poetry collection, The Adoption Papers. She was created an MBE for her services to literature in 2006. 96 (new entry) Bethany BlackComedian Often billed as "Britain's only Goth, lesbian, transsexual stand-up comedian", the award-winning Bethany Black herself resists anyone's attempt to pigeonhole her. She began in stand-up in 2004 and her career took off when she opened Manchester's Pride festival in 2005. 97 (43) Deborah WarnerStage director Tricky times for the radical interpreter of classic drama and opera: the 52-year-old responded spikily to broadsheet critics of her Barbican production of Sheridan's School for Scandal. Will she now, as advised by The Guardian's Michael Billington, begin directing the work of living writers? 98 (new entry) Stephen FrostHead of diversity and inclusion, 2012 Olympics As a senior Locog staffer, Frost has put in place fair selection procedures and ensured that the board hosts a Diversity Week. The introduction of lapel "Diversity pins", although small, have led to a discussion within sports that would otherwise never have taken place. 99 (new entry) Melanie RickeyFashion editor-at-large, Grazia Described by The Guardian as "the Mrs and Mrs of the style world", Rickey and her wife, the television shopping guru Mary Portas, are adjusting to life as Britain's most glamorous lesbian couple. Rickey is also credited with bringing fashion nous to Portas's various retail projects. 100 (79) Richard BarnesDeputy Mayor of London Elected to public office for the first time in 1982 and now a key player in Boris Johnson's London mayoral team. Appointed Deputy Mayor in May 2008 and is responsible for communities, cohesion and sustainability, as well as health and procurement. Barnes is also active in Aids and HIV charities. 101 (new entry) Anton HysenSwedish footballer Though playing for lowly Utsiktens BK in Sweden, Anton Hysen became the highest-profile, if not the only, openly gay professional footballer in Europe when he came out this year. "Anyone who is afraid of coming out should give me a call," said Anton. He is the son of ex-Liverpool player Glenn Hysen.National TreasuresThey need no introduction; they're in a category of their own and life wouldn't be the same without them.Stephen Fry, Broadcaster and writerThe over-exposed comedian did call last year's Pink List "homophobic" and "misogynist", and he does, rather hypocritically, make some backward comments about "lady-boys". But as the saying goes: hate the sin, love the sinner. One of our most glittering national treasures.Graham Norton Comedian and presenterMaggi Hambling, Artist, CBESandi Toksvig, Comedian and presenterAs with the bacon, Denmark's loss is Britain's gain ? without her, Radio 4 listeners would be lost at weekends.Alan Bennett, WriterCameron Mackintosh, ImpresarioThe New York Times called him "the most successful, influential and powerful theatrical producer in the world". He more or less is the West End and produced Les Miserables, The Phantom of the Opera, Mary Poppins, Martin Guerre and Cats.Simon Callow, ActorAdele Anderson, Actress and singerFrom Fascinating Aida. A Humanist, who opposed the Pope's UK visit and told The IoS in 1997 how hard it was to "come out" as a trans woman.Rupert Everett, ActorAmy Lame EntertainerUS-born but an out-and-proud Brit since 2007. Brings her unique wit to stage, screen and radio.Paul O'Grady Entertainer and authorJulian Clary, Comedian and novelist'Nice to meet you'New to us, or new to being openly gay, these newcomers could set the LGBT world alight.Juliet JacquesJournalist and blogger.Bisi AlimiThe first Nigerian to come out on national TV, he now has asylum in Britain. Their loss is our gain.Andrew HaighDirector of Weekend, set to be the film of the autumn.Kieron RichardsonEccles-born actor best known for playing Ste Hay in Hollyoaks. Also appeared in Holby City.Jill JacksonSinger-songwriter, received a lot of your nominations.Nigel EvansOne of three deputy Speakers of the House of Commons, came out in December saying that he was tired of "living a lie". That meant living down his vote against an equal age of consent for gay men in 1998.Ellie HarrisonArtist and one to watch.Sarah GrahamAn expert on LGBT and intersex people and addiction. Now working with the Amy Winehouse Foundation.Laurie PennyJournalist and blogger.Suran DicksonAbout to launch Diversity Role Models' campaign against bullying in schools, backed by Theresa May.Non-LGBT friendsYou don't have to be lesbian, gay, bisexual or transgender to support those who are.Ben Cohen Rugby playerA former England international, Ben is one of few sportsman actively fighting homophobia in sport. He retired from professional rugby this year to focus on The Ben Cohen StandUp Foundation, which combats homophobia and bullying.Julie Hesmondhalgh ActressAs Hayley Cropper, the first transgender soap character, Hesmondhalgh challenged attitudes on-screen and off, with Press for Change, Manchester Lesbian and Gay Foundation, and other campaigns.Daniel Radcliffe ActorAfter supporting the Trevor project ? which raises awareness of gay teen suicide ? both financially and in films, Radcliffe said that combating homophobia is one of the most important things in his career.Lynne Featherstone MP, Home Office ministerThe Liberal Democrat has worked hard on her equality brief, pressing for gay marriage and the end of the ban on gay men donating blood.Jonathan Ross PresenterOn hearing that his daughter Betty Kitten is a lesbian, all he cared about was that she is "good and happy".Beverley Knight SingerPopular at Pride events, she first spoke out against homophobia in 2004, after her friend Tyrone Jameson died of Aids. "I enjoy reggae music," she told The Voice. "But what I didn't like was seeing talented artists using their platform to gay-bash."Suzanne MooreJournalist and voice of reasonBernard and Terry ReedBoth made OBEs last year. As parents of a transgender daughter, they founded the Gender Identity Research and Education Society.Rachel Shelley ActressHelena Peabody in the US The L Word, and very supportive of LGBT events.Lifetime achievement awardJeanette Winterson WriterHer memoir Why Be Happy When You Could Be Normal, published this week, covers similar ground to her groundbreaking novel Oranges Are Not the Only Fruit, which ? difficult to believe ? was published 26 years ago.George Michael Singer-songwriterKen Plummer SociologistEmeritus Professor of Sociology at the University of Essex: pioneered the sociological study of gay life in the 1960s, he still publishes books and works as an academic.Chris Graham Bell PublisherSoon to retire after 40 years of launching gay and lesbian publications to some 500,000 readers. Gay Times shortly marks its 400th issue.Sir Ian McKellen ActorStephen Whittle AcademicProfessor of Equalities Law in the School of Law at Manchester Metropolitan University and campaigner with Press for Change.Neil Tennant Singer-songwriterJan Morris Travel writerHer collected works, Contact, was republished for the Christmas 2010 market, along with many of her other books.Sarah Waters NovelistElton John Singer-songwriterDespite accepting $1m to perform for the right-wing commentator Rush Limbaugh's fourth wedding, among his 3,000 concerts he's had more than a few good ones.The JudgesIn the month since we opened nominations for the Pink List, 1,500 of you emailed your suggestions and sent them in to our website. We ended up with about 300 separate nominations, which were painstakingly sifted by our expert panel. We are immensely grateful to 11 judges who, at the pinnacles of their professions, would have appeared high on the list themselves if they hadn't asked to opt out. Instead, they stepped forward to discuss the names you put forward, and these are the ones they chose.Thanks, to all of you.Gareth ThomasStonewall's 2010 Hero of the Year and No 1 on last year's Pink List, the rugby player won 103 international caps for Wales. He came out publicly in 2009 and helps others in sport to do the same. Pundit for Rugby World Cup Final for ITV today.Tamsin OmondClimate change campaigner who scaled the roof of the Commons in protest at the Heathrow expansion. Calls acts such as splashing the Treasury in green paint "little bits of naughtiness". Hitched lifts to the Arctic Circle to highlight climate change.Stephen K AmosStand-up comic born and raised in London. Has appeared on many BBC TV and radio comedy shows, and won a Royal Television Society Award for his documentary on homophobia in the black British and Jamaican communities, Batty Man.Ben SummerskillThe chief executive, since 2003, of Stonewall, was a journalist and Labour councillor, leading campaigns against homophobia. Shortlisted as Britain's Most Admired Charity Chief Executive in the Third Sector Awards; created OBE in 2009.Paris LeesThe editor of META magazine quickly established herself in the gay press through Trans Media Watch and with groundbreaking progress on Channel 4. Her digital publication, META, is aimed at the trans community, and launches next month.Paul JenkinsThe most senior openly gay civil servant, a career lawyer advising Whitehall for three decades. Has been Treasury Solicitor but is particularly proud to be named Civil Service Diversity Champion. In a civil partnership for two years.Margot JamesVice chair of the Conservative Party, responsible for women. She was on the A-list of candidates and elected MP for Stourbridge last year. The first openly lesbian Conservative MP, her partner is Jay Hunt, presenter of the BBC's Would Like To Meet.John AmaechiWith 18 caps for England, Amaechi was the first Briton to win a place in the US Basketball Hall of Fame, and the first openly gay NBA player. He now runs Amaechi Performance, works in the US and Europe as a social entrepreneur and motivational speaker, and is a trailblazer for diversity in sport.Greg BarkerMinister for Energy and Climate Change, he left his wife in 2006 and came out. He is taking on energy firms, flying the flag for the green agenda as it risks being overshadowed by the faltering economy. Warned modernisers they must "wake up".Tim FranksAs chief executive of the LGBT health and wellbeing charity PACE, he has been active in gay community organisations for more than 20 years. Lead author of "Where to Turn?" an influential report on LGBT people in the mental health system in the UK.Jane CzyzselskaJane Czyzselska is editor of DIVA magazine and , Europe's leading and bestselling monthly title and website for gay and bisexual women. A frequent commentator and public speaker, Jane is a former Pink List honoree, a member of the NUJ, and a trustee of LGBT mental health charity PACE. On Twitter, she can be found @Czyzselska and @DIVAmagazine.IoS JudgesBrian Brady, Whitehall Editor; Laura Chesters, Business Correspondent; Matt Chorley, Political Correspondent; Katy Guest, Literary Editor; Mike Higgins, Arts Editor; Jane Merrick, Political Editor; Hugh Montgomery, Arts Correspondent; Neil Robinson, Sports Editor.?If fashion designers and rappers ? including Tinie Tempah ? were unsure of royal protocol, perhaps they could spare a thought for Prince Charles, who is not often seen at fashion parties. But the two cultures hit it off.The occasion was a suitably grand reception, hosted by the heir to the throne at St James's Palace, to launch the inaugural London Collections: Menswear which will see more than 50 British designers take to the catwalk in London over three days to rival menswear collections in New York, Milan and Paris for the first time.Dame Vivienne Westwood, Sir Philip Green, Tom Ford and Nicole Farhi were among the many established designers in attendance alongside the business brains behind such august British-born fashion companies as Savile Row tailors, Gieves & Hawkes, and heritage brand, Belstaff. The younger generation, for which London Fashion Week is best known, was all present and correct too. Richard Nicoll, Christopher Kane, Sibling and JW Anderson are names that light up the women's wear arena and manage businesses that, while small by international standards, continue to grow.They all design menswear also, and clearly welcomed the opportunity, as Kane put it, "to celebrate something British... Our fashion is being taken really seriously now and that's because it is pretty damn good," he said.Unlike his daughter-in-law, Prince Charles, dressed yesterday in lightweight navy double-breasted jacket, striped shirt, immaculately folded pocket square and polished brogues, is unlikely to be seen shopping for clothes on the high street. Instead, he famously favours tailoring made for him by Anderson & Sheppard, shirting by Turnbull & Asser , hats by Lock and shoes by Lobb. "I simply go my own way and things come round to me maybe every 10 years or so. I do my best to wear the best of British," he said.In fact, British fashion ? and menswear especially ? owes much to the style of the English aristocracy and the monarchy in particular. Ceremonial regalia, military insignia and the strictly regimented workshops on Savile Row have informed everyone from the aforementioned Westwood (Harris Tweed, hunting jackets, mini-crinolines and cloth crowns) to Alexander McQueen, who was Savile Row trained.In a similar vein, brands have been founded on creating well-made, functional garments that are as practical as they are dapper. The Burberry trench coat and waxed cotton jackets by Barbour, for example, are worn everywhere from the football terraces to the grounds of Balmoral and by many a well-heeled Anglophile overseas."I want to pay tribute to the best of tailoring, the best of innovation and the best of craftsmanship," the Prince of Wales concluded.?A scientist who led a nine-year study into the effect of badger culling on rates of bovine TB has described the Government's plan to go ahead with culls as "crazy". Lord Krebs said: "I would go down the vaccination and biosecurity route rather than this crazy scheme that may deliver very small advantage." Briton in drugs case will not be executedA British property developer, Paul Beales, was told he faces up to 20 years in jail for possessing and trying to sell a small quantity of drugs. But he will avoid the death penalty despite also being accused of involvement in a failed attempt to smuggle ￡1.6m of cocaine into Bali. Iain Duncan Smith defends reformsIain Duncan Smith defended his new benefit system in the Commons. He said shifting to one monthly benefit under the universal credit system would help wean claimants off fortnightly payments, and support would be given to those concerned about the internet-run system. Bold Burberry bounces backBurberry bounced back from a share price drop with a stellar show at London Fashion Week yesterday. The fashion house took on a radical approach to their traditional trench by showing it in metallic colours. That iPhone call may be delayed...Apple customers may have to wait weeks for their iPhone 5 to be delivered after two million units were sold in just one day. Despite the delivery date of the company's latest smartphone being this Friday, Apple admitted that "many" customers may not get one until next month.US 'was warned of possibility of attack' Libyan security say that they warned the US of a possible assault on its consulate in Benghazi three days before an attack killed the American ambassador, Chris Stevens, and three others. The news follows a disclosure by this newspaper that the American administration knew of a planned attack by al-Qa'ida-linked insurgents two days beforehand. I sentence you to be man and wife …A judge who sentenced a man to four years in jail for firearms charges performed a marriage ceremony minutes later to wed the new inmate and his longtime girlfriend. Larry Austin shared a brief kiss with bride Dustie Trojack before officials whisked him off to prison in Oklahoma. 18lb onion is 10th title for gardenerA gardener has broken his own world record for the largest onion, growing one with a weight of 18lbs 1oz. Peter Glazebrook, 78, has held a total of 10 world records over 30 years of gardening, including one for a 119lb 12oz marrow.Drought reveals sunken treasuresA huge cargo of carved marble that sank in the Vistula river four centuries ago has resurfaced after a drought lowered water levels. Experts believe the stonework was looted by 17th century Swedish invaders and loaded on to barges, which sank.Romney woos Hispanic votersMitt Romney was due last night to pledge to Hispanics that if elected he will fix the US immigration system in an appeal to a voter bloc that overwhelmingly favours Barack Obama. Mr Romney will add a commitment to get a handle on America's problem of rising national debt and massive budget deficits. Foreign fighters 'are radicalising rebels 'The number of foreign fighters in Syria is growing, some operating independently and some joining anti-government forces which they are helping to make more radical, UN human rights investigators said. August was the worst month for casualties so far in the conflict. Barlow to perform at classical awardsLord Lloyd-Webber and Gary Barlow will join the Military Wives choir to perform their hit single, Sing, at the Classic Brit Awards next month. The song, composed for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, was recorded with artists from around the world. ?The city has always enjoyed a stellar reputation as a style hub, but this was cemented in the eighties when the first official London Fashion Week opened in 1984. The idea of fashion shows began long before that, though. In the late nineteenth century, French couture salons created “fashion parades” that would show off their clothes. And in 1903, a New York store called Ehrich Brothers is thought to have hosted America’s first fashion show in-store. One past highlight of London Fashion Week is the debut collection of a then little-known graduate, John Galliano, who went on to become the head of French fashion house Christian Dior. Also notable is the presence of British designer Stella McCartney, who will show her main collection in Paris but returns to her home town for the presentation of a smaller capsule range - who knows whether the collection will draw on her Olympic credentials?We’ve selected key highlights from London Fashion week over the last decade, click on View Gallery to see more.Our fashion team will be , with a selection of pictures from the shows.?It doesn't sound much different to the statement from Dame Marjorie Scardino, who years ago vowed that Pearson, her FTSE 100 firm, would sell off the Financial Times newspaper "over my dead body".Dame Marjorie, who used to run the Economist Group, oversees a 50 per cent stake in it from the helm of Pearson. The rest is in the hands of City blue-bloods such as the Rothschild, Cadbury and Schroder families. There is occasional speculation that the publishing company will buy out the others, but Forester, who oversees the investment after marrying the banking grandee Sir Evelyn de Rothschild 12 years ago, has just put paid to that."Why would anyone sell? I think being independent is very much a part of what helps The Economist be what it is," she adds.Indeed, the magazine might have chronicled the worst of the global recession but it has prospered along the way. In seven years, global print circulation has jumped from 1 million to nearly 1.5 million, with a further 100,000 digital subscribers. Shareholders have enjoyed the improving dividends.Now Forester, who trained as a lawyer and built telecoms businesses before becoming a Rothschild, is travelling from the boardroom into the headlines to win supporters for her latest cause. Amid the trading excesses of big banks and spiralling boardroom pay, "inclusive capitalism" sounds like an oxymoron. But Forester, who counts Hillary Clinton and the Duke of York among her friends, believes it can make a difference at a time when the gap between rich and poor is widening."I think it's more than an image problem, I think that there actually has been bad behaviour that's brought capitalism into legitimate ill-repute," she says. "I don't think, as defenders of capitalism, we should try to defend all the behaviour of all capitalists."When Alan Mendoza, the head of the Henry Jackson Society, came to see her with a project, it didn't take much to convince her to lend her name to it. The movement's launch in Westminster in May was a Who's Who of attendees including Lords Grade, Tugendhat and Gavron. A three-point plan has been designed to tackle the acute skills shortage, support small businesses and move away from stock market short-termism.Projects include a web portal created by the computing giant IBM that matches big corporations with small suppliers. Sir John Peace, the chairman of Burberry and Standard Chartered, is championing an initiative to cut youth unemployment. "What victory would look like is lower unemployment, higher growth and Occupy Wall Street saying, 'Hey, we've got jobs now, we're on our way to becoming the top 1 per cent'," Forester says enthusiastically.In the intervening months, more companies have come on board. A New York event on 11 October will include another top-level line-up: Larry Summers, the former US Treasury Secretary, and Carly Fiorina, Hewlett-Packard's one-time boss, will speak.It sounds encouraging, but what about the companies that really need to show they are rehabilitating: the banks? "You know, after our announcement and before their troubles, God bless them, Barclays reached out to us and said they would like to engage in this journey but, of course, it got overshadowed by events," Forester says. "There's also going to be an ethics course at the London Business School that's going to be mid-career and several of the banks have signed up for it."Forester is mindful of the irony of a member of such a famous banking family promoting manufacturing as a good, honest profession and hitting out at financial engineering as a scourge."It's a fair question. I was always in businesses that operated and built things. But my husband has always seen finance as a way to motor the real economy," she says."I remember him saying to Alan Greenspan [former chairman of the Federal Reserve]: 'You know derivatives are really something you need to look at and you need to regulate them'. He wrote a piece in The Guardian in 2004 about how bankers need to stop focusing only on their money and get back to focusing on clients. Actually, Evelyn had one of the best lines when I came home from our first meeting. I said, 'Well, what do you think we should do to stop this decline in the way people view capitalism?' He said: 'Tell people to behave better.' Easy."Can such a simple approach rebuild the shattered American dream that anyone can shape their own destinies through hard work? From an upbringing in New Jersey, she'd like to think so. "I was born in 1954 and my father worked two jobs. He entered the war as soon as we declared, he didn't use the GI Bill and go back to college even when my mother got pregnant, and he wanted to support his family. So he went right to work, uneducated, and he made sure we knew we could get whatever education we wanted, that he would pay, no matter what he had to do, for our educations."She studied law in New York and Geneva but switched to the telecoms industry when she went to work for the tycoon John Kluge. Striking out on her own, she set up the broadband company FirstMark, and sold out for $150m (￡93m) in 1997.Such experience means she has the right to let out a sigh when the subject of putting more women into top jobs is raised. "In 1982 I was on television talking about the need for women in boardrooms. I was young and successful, so I got recognised in that way, and got put on some good boards. My view today is quotas are always a bad idea except when, after 30 years, women are still not represented on boards, I think putting pressure on finding a qualified woman is a good thing."However, the mother of two sons ? one working in the film business, the other in investment ? recognises it isn't always as easy as that."Recruiting from the bottom up is difficult too. If you're an employer and you have five plum jobs, and you give three of them to women and two of those women might go at the age of 32 to have a family, you've lost those seats, you've lost those years of training, you've made huge investments and two of your five are gone ? that's bad. You have your duties to your shareholders; you also have a duty to other people who work in the firm."She began moving in political circles after marrying her second husband, Andrew Stein, a New York Democrat, at the age of 28. After marrying her third husband, Sir Evelyn, 23 years her senior, she moved closer to the seat of power. The pair, who have a ￡463m fortune and live in American painter John Singer Sargent's former Chelsea townhouse, honeymooned at the White House at the Clintons' invitation.She still campaigns for the Democrats, and threw a glitzy fundraiser for Hillary Clinton's White House run. As a disarming hostess, it's easy to see how she makes things happen. Just don't label her a socialite. With the next presidential election only six weeks away she is worried about the outcome."I think there is a genuine mistrust of what Barack Obama will do in the second term regarding taxes, regulation and the freedom of businesses," she says. "I don't think there's any question that if people knew Mitt Romney was going to get elected, which is doubtful, the stock market would explode."For her party to have disappointed business so much is upsetting."When Obama announced his candidacy he said he wasn't running to fill an office but to transform a nation. He's backed off with that a lot because he's not a strong enough leader to get us there and it's a bad idea, but that's his orientation, he wants us to be something different."Back to inclusive capitalism, and she hopes to make a difference in her own way. The crusade could even go global. "We're not going to confine this to Britain and the United States, we think it's an important global message. The Chinese have invited us and so have the South Koreans so we see this as something to convene around the world. In the past 20 years, capitalism has lifted 700 million people out of poverty."If it's a real success, we might even read about it in the pages of The Economist.?When hundreds of young models descend on the English capital for London Fashion Week twice a year, the culmination of all these strains can put their health at serious risk.This year, however, the experience is likely to be even more demanding than the previous four, as a respite centre which offers them support and treatment during the event is to close.Erin O'Connor has said that the Model Sanctuary, which she set up in 2008 to provide "discreet health guidance and educational support" to teenage models, would have to close during the showcase event next week because of rent issues.The centre was launched amid controversy over London Fashion Week's refusal to ban dangerously thin models and a debate about the impact that the beauty "ideal" promoted by the fashion industry has on young girls' self-esteem.Now, many leading models are speaking out over their concerns that the health of vulnerable young women is at risk.Amber Anderson, 19, the face of Burberry and one of the models to have benefited from the Sanctuary, told The Independent: "It is a haven for so many models during the stressful show season."It is not unusual to work 18- or 19-hour days during Fashion Week without any space or time to yourself. I have been able to have a healthy, filling lunch, seek nutritional or exercise advice, have a massage to ease some of the stress or even have a nap in a room."Anderson warned that the centre's closure "will greatly impact on the younger, more vulnerable models in the industry who need that support".Ms O'Connor, 33, has appealed to the fashion industry to help save the project, which caters for 250 young women a day, many between the ages of 16 and 18 and gives them access to nutritionists and psychologists.She said the Sanctuary, which was based in Covent Garden but operates on a "pop-up" basis during Fashion Week, needed a "workable venue and the security of long-term funding".Jade Parfitt, 33, is a Vogue regular who made her catwalk debut in 1995. She has spoken out in support of the centre, saying that it represented an vital step forward for the fashion industry."It's imperative that young models today have access to facilities I wished were available to me when I first began my career. Initiatives like these, where fashion models' well-being are paramount are practically non-existent, when you take into consideration that many of the models working during London Fashion Week are aged 16 to 20 and are often travelling alone. The Sanctuary must indeed seem like a wonderfully safe place and should be given the opportunity to continue to develop."Jo Swinson, the Liberal Democrat MP who campaigns against the misleading airbrushing of celebrities by the beauty industry, visited the centre last year. She said: "The Sanctuary plays a vital role during London Fashion Week. The fashion industry and the agencies that do so well out of using these models need to consider what they need to do to take on those responsibilities without the Sanctuary."The MP met a delegation of models who are seeking industry-wide standards against exploitation through membership of the actors' union Equity. The union has produced a code of conduct for models, in partnership with the British Fashion Council, covering issues such as nudity, breaks and pay rates."In short, I am asking for greater support from the industry. It is my belief that this initiative is vital."?The recent rush of results from the housebuilders comes to an end this week with full-year trading updates from Bovis Homes today and Taylor Wimpey tomorrow. Despite prospective buyers still having a tough time of it, the reporting season has largely been a positive one, with margins helped by building on cheaper land.Margins is the area in which Numis Securities' Chris Millington believes Bovis could end up beating the market's expectations, although he says thereis little chance of other surprisesemerging.Results/Updates: Bovis Homes and Exillon Energy.TomorrowRecent Christmas figures from the global luxury sector have been rather mixed, and Royal Bank of Scotland believes Burberry will reveal on Tuesday a slowdown in its like-for-like retail sales growth over the third quarter to 13 per cent, down from 15.5 per cent during the previous six months.However, the broker's analysts point out that the upmarket retailer is facing tougher comparatives for the period. They also add that there is a chance the numbers could beat expectations, saying "anecdotal data support our view that the travelling luxury consumer continues to drive sales in key markets".Greene King's performance has impressed recently, and investors should once again be merry after the pub operator's trading update tomorrow. The group's managed division saw its like-for-like revenues rise 4 per cent during the first 30 weeks of the year and Shore Capital believes this trend will have continued over the following seven weeks, with the broker also optimistic over the performance of its tenanted properties and volumes of its own brewed beers.Results/Updates: Burberry, DixonsRetail, Experian, Greene King, IG Group, Intermediate Capital, Rio Tinto and Taylor Wimpey.WednesdayMan Group endured a pretty sorry 2011 ? it was the fourth worst blue-chip performer ? and 2012 is heading the same way, with the world's largest listed hedge already having dropped roughly 14 per cent since the New Year.Those investors still left will be desperately hoping its nine-month trading statement on Wednesday does not prompt another lurch down, although the signs aren't good. A number of brokers, including JP Morgan Cazenove and Credit Suisse, have cut their estimates recently, while RBC's Peter Lenardos expects Man to reveal $2.3bn of outflows over the last three months of 2011.Results/Updates: African Barrick Gold, BHP Billiton, Diploma, Hochschild Mining, JD Wetherspoon, Man Group and Tullow Oil.ThursdayThe rush of post-Christmas releases from the retail sector is starting to slow down, but there are still a few high-street names left to update the market. Kesa Electricals is one of them, with its third-quarter figures out on Thursday, and it is thought that the performance of its Comet chain is unlikely to cause any pangs of regret over its agreement to sell the business to OpCapita for ￡2.UBS believes Comet's like-for-like sales will have dropped 13 per cent, while forecasting just a 3 per cent fall for Kesa's pan-European chain Darty. However, the broker also warns the company's Italian operations should be a cause for worry, saying it is "hard to see how this business can achieve profitability in its current form."Results/Updates: Aberdeen Asset Management, ASOS, Associated British Foods, Jupiter Fund Management, Kesa Electricals, Premier Oil, SAB Miller, St James's Place and William Hill.FridayThe week is brought to an end by Close Brothers, with the independent City bank releasing its pre-close statement. Back in November the group said that times have been tough for its Securities operations, although its banking unit was doing rather better.This time, Numis' James Hamilton believes Close's Winterfloods market-making business will have seen a "significant decline" in revenues over the first half of the year, while on the banking side he predicts that the group's loan book will have grown 7 per cent compared to the previous six months.Results/Updates: Close Brothers.TODAY Rightmove house price index; US markets closed for Martin Luther King Day.TOMORROW Consumer price index; Eurozone consumer price index; Retail price index; US Empire State manufacturing survey.WEDNESDAY Labour market report; Unemployment statistics;US industrial production;US producer price index.THURSDAY European CentralBank monthly report; US consumer price index; US housing starts;US unemployment figures; US Philadelphia Fed survey.FRIDAY Bank of England lending trends report; Retail sales; US existing home sales.?Investors were not happy with APR Energy when it announced in March it was delaying its maiden full-year results until today, with the stock slumping by a fifth in just one session. The temporary power firm ? which last year was reversed into Pizza Express founder Hugh Osmond's investment vehicle Horizon ? blamed its tardiness on the numbers being too complicated, although it did announce a summary of the figures. These showed a disappointingly low order intake over the first three months of the financial year, and therefore Peel Hunt believes the focus this time will be on APR's outlook statement, with the broker looking for any news of further contract wins.Results/Updates: Amec, APR Energy, AVEVA, DDD Group, Dragon Oil, Gem Diamonds and Pace.TomorrowMarks & Spencer is announcing its numbers for the fourth-quarter on Tuesday, and Panmure Gordon's Jean Roche is more optimistic than most, predicting a 0.6 per cent and 2.3 per cent growth in like-for-like sales from its UK general merchandise and food operations respectively. The analyst is expecting international revenues to have risen 9.9 per cent over the period, although she admits this "may prove too ambitious". She also warns that any disappointment regarding its gross margins in this country "will get a very unsympathetic reception".Meanwhile, Investec believes much more important to the City than the figures will be M&S's first forecasts for the current financial year, which the broker says should include comments on space growth and operating costs.At the slightly higher end of the retail sector, Burberry will be revealing numbers for the same period. Barclays Capital is predicting the luxury brand will have seen a 24 per cent organic growth in retail sales, while adding that the group tends to use its fourth-quarter results to announce retail space growth expectations for the financial year ahead.Results/Updates: Burberry, DMGT, Marks & Spencer, MP Evans, Northbridge Industrial Services, Rio Tinto, UK Coal and Walker Greenbank.WednesdayAll eyes will be on Phil Clarke on Wednesday as, at the same time as the supermarket's final results, the Tesco boss will announce the outcome of the major strategic review launched following January's shock profits warning. Part of the revival strategy will involve putting all new plans for large stores on hold, while it is also expected to go up against Amazon by launching a new online site.Berenberg's Niamh McSherry is predicting a focus on investing in staff and service levels as well as its own-brand products. Saying it offers management "the first opportunity to rebuild investor confidence", she does not believe targets set will be incredibly ambitious.Meanwhile, in terms of the numbers, joint house broker Nomura expects the group to reveal UK trading profits have dropped 2 per cent over the year to ￡2.47bn, which would be the first decline in this country for at least 20 years.Results/Updates: BHP Billiton, Bunzl, Computacenter, Dialight, Euromoney Institutional Investor, Fresnillo, GKN, Hunting, moneysupermarket.com, Speedy Hire, Spirit Pub Company and Tesco.ThursdayFollowing department store rival M&S's results earlier in the week, it is Debenham's turn on Thursday to update the market. With the retailer already having said that underlying sales over the first half increased by 0.3 per cent, Deutsche Bank believes it will confirm a "strong" performance for the period.Results/Updates: Debenhams, E2V Technologies, Hammerson, Hargreaves Lansdown, Hydrodec, International Power, Jupiter Fund Management, Ladbrokes, Lavendon, Persimmon, Randall & Quilter, SABMiller and WH Smith.FridayAny punters who have a flutter on William Hill will be eager to hear from the high street bookie on Friday when it announces its first-quarter results. Deutsche Bank is expecting a "strong update", predicting a 3 per cent jump in UK net revenues and a 23 per cent increase from its online operations.Results/Updates: African Barrick Gold, Ferrexpo, IMI, Record, Rotork, Spectris and William Hill.Economics DiaryTODAY US business inventories; US Empire State manufacturing survey; US retail sales data.TOMORROW Consumer price index; Eurozone consumer price index; Eurozone ZEW economic sentiment survey; Retail price index; US building permits; US housing starts; US industrial production.WEDNESDAY Bank of England Monetary Policy Committee minutes; Claimant count change; Unemployment rate.THURSDAY G20 meeting of finance ministers begins; US existing home sales; US Philadelphia Fed manufacturing index; US unemployment claims.FRIDAY IMF/World Bank spring meetings begin.?Cash-strapped shoppers switching to pork to help cut costs has assisted the pork producer Cranswick to report strong sales growth. During the summer it reported first-quarter sales growth of 7.4 per cent. Numis Securities' Charles Pick reckons the growth will have continued when it reports its trading update today. Mr Pick's only warning is that "there is a risk Cranswick has to pay more for its pig meat" in future. Rising precious metals prices have helped Vedanta Resources recently, but a setback at its iron ore business in Goa, India, caused its shares to suffer last month. Goa's state government last month suspended operations in mining following a report about bad practices and illegal mining there. The Liberum Capital scribe Ash Lazenby reckons the market will remain cautious on likely timing of a resolution, and thinks its shares will remain weak, as iron ore production from Goa makes up 11 per cent of its total.The group has also been hit by copper and aluminium price falls. Standard & Poor issued a report last week on falling iron ore prices and said miners will be impacted, but "those able to defer capital expenditure and cut costs" would be able to withstand a period of low iron ore prices.Lazenby gave the stock a buy rating with a target share price of ￡1,003, and the mining giant will issue a production progress update today.Results/Updates: Michael Page.TomorrowThe recruitment sector has been tough and the global outlook is still challenging. Peel Hunt is keeping its eye on Australia for the recruiter Hays. Henry Carver said: "Australia is likely to be slowing, as the pause in the mining resources activity will likely impact other sectors in the region." He sees "no fundamental positive catalysts in the near term, and we maintain our cautious stance". He gives it a sell rating with a price target of 65p. The recruitment firm will update the market with a trading statement tomorrow, and analysts at Numis believe that at this stage "there is better value elsewhere in the sector". Results/Updates: dotDigital, Utilitywise, May Gurney, XP Power.WednesdayThe Swiss-based but Ukraine-focused miner Ferrexpo will reveal third-quarter production results midweek, with analysts expecting a flat and uneventful update. Last month Jefferies said it sees long-term value with near-term risks for Ferrexpo, "which should realise attractive returns even assuming normalised prices". Scribes at Numis expect its production to be flat and "low grade/high grade ratios to be maintained at previous levels". ThursdayFrom Kobo e-book readers and digital book stores to flogging bottles of water or giant bars of Dairy Milk for a ￡1 at train stations and airports, WH Smith's strategy appears to be paying off. It has confirmed that its full-year pre-tax profit will be at the top end of expectations, at more than ￡100m. The analyst John Stevenson at Peel Hunt said underlying cash generation remains strong at the newsagent-cum-bookstore, and earlier this summer confirmed a further ￡50m planned share buyback for next year.Mr Stevenson gave a hold rating and a price target of 600p ahead of final results on Thursday.Results/Updates: Air Partner, Ashmore, Burberry, e2v technologies, Greggs.FridayTravis Perkins, the builders' merchant and owner of the retail chain Wickes, will give an insight into its trading performance on Friday when it updates on its third-quarter results. Howard Seymour at Numis expects few surprises, with like-for-like sales in both the trade and retail areas likely to be flat due to the stagnant housing market. Mr Seymour reckons gross margins will still benefit from management actions and the "group is expected to maintain operational outperformance in its key markets".Results/Updates: Computacenter, Hargreaves Lansdown, Travis Perkins.Economics DiaryToday Lloyds employment confidence survey, Eurogroup meetings, German industrial production.Tomorrow British Retail Consortium sales data for September, Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors house price figures, industrial production figures and manufacturing output figures, National Institute of Social and Economic Research GDP estimate, trade balance, Ecofin meetings.Wednesday French industrial update, US 10-year bond auction, US Beige BookThursday ECB monthly bulletin, Bloomberg UK economic survey for October, US crude oil Inventories, US federal budget balance, US unemployment claims.Friday European Industrial Production, US consumer sentiment.?While the fall came alongside the wider market sell-off, Burberry has been particularly badly hit, thanks to fears about China's growth prospects.In common with its peers, the firm has benefited from a huge boom in the country's demand for luxury goods, so the retailer's comments on trading in Asia, when it releases its first-half trading update on Wednesday, should make for interesting reading.UBS's Fred Speirs will be keeping his eye out. He says that any update on the situation in China would be "critical to [the] share price reaction".More generally, Mr Speirs forecasts that the company will announce total sales for the period of ￡806m, a 27 per cent rise.Seymour Pierce's Kate Calvert, meanwhile, is slightly more bullish, predicting sales will reach ￡828m. She says Burberry will "report strong second-quarter trading", although she warns investors will be on the lookout for signs that department stores in the US may be cutting back their wholesale orders for 2012.Some in the City are also expressing concerns over the state of Burberry's margins. Nomura's Fraser Ramzan points out that the company has already said that its operating costs for the year will be weighted towards the first-half and he, therefore, predicts a 0.5 per cent drop in earnings margins for its retail and wholesale operations.Nonetheless, he still believes in Burberry's growth strategy, saying that the investments it has made this year means "arguably some of the greatest gains [are] to come". TODAYat the time of the recruiter's half-year results in August, Michael Page chief executive, Stephen Puckett, said he believed the company remained on course to post a pre-tax profit tax for the year of ￡110m. Peel Hunt says this "is unlikely still to be the case", warning that despite the group, which issues its third-quarter results today, continuing to be "exposed to growing economies, we now see downside risk to estimates for the next few months".Results/Updates: Michael Page. TOMORROWResults/Updates: N Brown and Robert Walters. WEDNESDAYafter cautious outlook comments by its rival, Wolseley, last week, builders' merchant Travis Perkins's update on Wednesday will be closely examined for further clues as to what the future holds for it. The company was not optimistic when it published its interim figures in July and the downgrades that followed as a result prompted Numis's Howard Seymour to say that "third-quarter trading to date will, therefore, take on more importance than would be traditionally be the case".The analyst says the firm's like-for-like growth will be down on the figure for the first-half of the year, thanks to tough comparatives, and he is also looking for further comments on its self-help measures and the situation with BSS, the plumbing supplies group that it bought in 2010 for ￡557m.Results/Updates: Burberry, Fresnillo and Travis Perkins. THURSDAYinvestors will be hoping for further comments from Labrokes on how its talks with takeover target Sportingbet are going when the bookie updates the market on Thursday.In terms of its performance over the third quarter, Citigroup's James Ainley says that ? partly thanks to the tough comparison with last year when the World Cup was being staged ? Ladbrokes will reveal "sluggish trading", with its net revenue dipping 0.5 per cent. Meanwhile, outside the UK, the analyst is forecasting revenue will be down 5.1 per cent, with a 12.4 per cent slump in Belgium ? because of tax regime changes.Also in focus on Thursday will be Renishaw, as the precision engineer unveils its first-quarter figure at its annual general meeting. Numis's Scott Cagehin predicts trading will have been "robust", although he warns that there is likely to be "some management caution on outlook given the current economic uncertainty".The analyst says that the company's weights-and-measures products will drive its revenues and profits, with China, especially, proving a source of strength. Nonetheless, he does point out that "given its limited visibility of around six weeks, Renishaw should see any change in trading patterns very quickly".Results/Updates: Ashmore, Booker, Grainger, Hargreaves Lansdown, Ladbrokes, Renishaw, Rio Tinto and WH Smith. FRIDAYResults/Updates: Computacenter and Jupiter Fund Management.Economics DiaryTodayEurozone Sentix Investor Confidence. TomorrowBRC retail sales monitor;Industrial production;NIESR monthly GDP estimates;RICS house price balance. WednesdayEurozone industrial production; Unemployment data. ThursdayEBC monthly report;US trade balance. FridayEurozone CPI;US business inventories;US retail sales; US University of Michigan confidence data.?Michael Page will give its view on how the economy is affecting the job markets when the recruiter announces its update for the second quarter. Peel Hunt is one broker cautious over the company's prospects, with its analysts seeing "pressure" on its forecasts for the rest of the year amid continuing poor economic data from around the world. Noting that Michael Page has a particularly large exposure to Europe, they are expecting a pre-tax profit of ￡68.9m for the full-year ? ￡8m lower than the consensus in the Square Mile.Results/Updates: Bovis Homes, Michael Page, RM, XP Power.TomorrowGiven we have just seen the wettest June on record, the high street will not have been enjoying the weather. On Tuesday Marks & Spencer will reveal just how much it has been hit when it unveils its first-quarter statement, with it expected to announce its worst three months of trading for three years. Analysts at UBS are forecasting general merchandise like-for-like sales to be down 7 per cent over the period. They believe its food division may have suffered as well as womenswear, although they add that events such as the Diamond Jubilee should have offset this.While SIG was cautious at the time of its AGM in May, Peel Hunt warns that "the outlook has become more challenging" since then. Scribblers from the broker believe the building product group's trading statement will focus on conditions in Europe, while they add that it will be another company not helped by our damp summer.However, the weather could have given Asos a boost. The online retailer is announcing its first-quarter sales figures, and Societe Ge*erale's Anne Critchlow is predicting an 8 per cent increase in the UK. She adds that in the US sales "should look solid enough" with a 60 per cent increase, but warns that in the EU ? where she is predicting a rise of 15 per cent ? the numbers "could be soft for macro reasons".Results/Updates: Accsys Technologies, Asos, Bwin.party, Ferrexpo, Intermediate Capital, Interserve, Marks & Spencer, SIG, Smiths News.WednesdayAhead of its final results in September, JD Wetherspoons announces its pre-close statement on Wednesday. The boozer's struggle to keep margins up looks set to be a focus once again, and although it is unlikely it will have been hit as hard as it was over the third quarter, Numis Securities' Douglas Jack still expects full-year margins to end up falling by 9.05 per cent.Increasing costs and taxes have been hard for the group to pass on to what Mr Jack calls its "more price-sensitive customers", and the analyst cautions that his current expectations for the next financial year could prove too optimistic.Also in focus on Wednesday will be Burberry. JP Morgan Cazenove's analysts believe the luxury retailer will announce that sales over the first quarter of its financial year jumped 15 per cent to ￡421m, with retail sales up 20 per cent.Results/Updates: Barratt Developments, Bloomsbury Publishing, Burberry, Galliford Try, Hays, Icap, JD Wetherspoon.Thursday SuperGroup has been eager to persuade the market that its SuperDry brand remains in fashion, although there are plenty of sceptics given that its sales growth has slowed for four quarters running. Still, some analysts have been impressed by the retailer's latest range, and the group, which last month was relegated to the small-cap index, will get another chance on Thursday to change investors' minds with the release of its full-year results. In terms of the numbers themselves, after April's profits warning SuperGroup said it expected to post a pre-tax profit of around ￡43m, and it has stuck to that following the news that overall sales for the 12 months totalled ￡313.8m.Results/Updates: Ashmore, Associated British Foods, Centaur Media, Premier Oil, SuperGroup. FridayElectrocomponents is among the companies rounding off the week, with the electrical parts supplier publishing its interim management statement at the same time as holding its AGM. Numis Securities' Steve Woolf is expecting "a relatively stable performance" over the first-quarter.Results/Updates: Electrocomponents, Experian, Polar Capital.Economics DiaryTodayEurozone Sentix investor confidence data.TomorrowBritish Retail Consortium retail sales monitor; Industrial production; Manufacturing production; NIESR GDP estimate; Trade balance.WednesdayUS Federal Open Market Committee meeting minutes.ThursdayEuropean Central Bank monthly bulletin; Eurozone industrial production; US Federal budget balance; US import prices; US unemployment claimsFridayUS PPI; US University of Michigan consumer sentiment (preliminary).?Analysts at UBS are expecting ITV, which unveils its interim management statement today, to point to "strong audience trend data", with the Rugby World Cup having been a particular bonus for the channel in October, the disappointing ends met by the home nations notwithstanding.UBS is also looking forward to hearing more about progress made on the transformation plan laid out by Mr Crozier for the business, which includes a cautious foray into pay television and a greater focus on online.Against all that, ITV is facing some tough headwinds from the wider economicenvironment, which are likely to hit itsadvertising revenues, for which it is due to give updated forecasts. UBS predicts flat revenue growth for 2011, reflecting a gain of 0.2 per cent in the third quarter but a slump of 2.7 per cent during the final three months of the year.UBS still regards ITV as undervalued, trading as it does on a forward earnings multiple of nine times for 2012 compared with 10 times in the wider sector.?TodayResults and updates: Catlin Group, Charter, Electrocomponents, ITV, Kingspan, Lonmin.?TuesdayBurberry's interim results ought to provide some relief from the gloom that has been predominant in the retail sector in recent weeks. Western economies may be feeling the squeeze, but luxury goods sales have remained strong. Switzerland's Richemont reported a 29 per cent increase in revenues last week, for example.Analysts expect Burberry to continue to perform well. Numis said: "With strong sales progression through the first half and clear full-year margin guidance, we expect a strong interim profit before tax figure."Results and updates: Afren, Aveva, British Land, Burberry, Cable & Wireless Worldwide, CRH, Drax Group, easyJet, MicroFocus, Premier Oil, TalkTalk?WednesdayTrading will be dominated by economic news, with the Bank of England due to publish its quarterly Inflation Report. The Bank is likely to stick to its previous guidance that inflation, currently well above the 2 per cent target, will fall sharply during 2012. That view was given some credence by Friday's factory gate inflation figures, which indicated pressures in the supply chain beginning to ease off.Just as critical, however, is what the Bank has to say about the outlook for the economy. It is likely to downgrade its growth forecasts once again, following weeks of turmoil in the eurozone, adding to the pressure on George Osborne, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, who is due to present his autumn statement at the end of the monthResults and updates: Barratt Developments, Icap, London Stock Exchange, Meggitt, Melrose, Reed Elsevier, Speedy Hire?ThursdayAnalysts at Deutsche Bank have praised the emerging markets exposure of SAB Miller, which reports interim results today, but point out that its takeover of Foster's of Australia will dilute that effect, cutting the percentage of profits it generates from such markets to "around 70 per cent from around 80 per cent". Deutsche also warns that "recent news flow is, if anything, slightly disappointing" and predicts slightly lower earnings than expected because of tough trading in the US.Results and updates: Amec, Amlin, Atkins, Capita Group, Centrica, Close Brothers, Dunelm, Glencore, Mothercare, National Grid, Rexam, SAB Miller, Serco.?FridayThe engineering company Rotork had a strong first-half and UBS analysts expect further positive news in today's trading statement from the company. "With order input in the second quarter alone up 28 per cent year-on-year, we would expect growth rates to moderate given tougher comparisons," UBS said. "We forecast orders of ￡121m, fractionally ahead of the second quarter [and] 16 per cent year-on-year.Results and updates: Chemring, Derwent London, Intertek, Regus, Rotork, Tullett Prebon.Economics DiaryTODAY Bank of England Project Merlin bank lending third-quarter data.?TOMORROW UK CPI & RPI inflation figures; eurozone GDP, with separate figures for France, Germany, Netherlands.?WEDNESDAY UK ILO unemployment, claimant rate, Bank of England Inflation Report; eurozone final inflation report; US: Consumer prices.?THURSDAY UK retail sales data from ONS.?FRIDAY No significant data expected.??The shareholder meeting of the banking giant HSBC should be a lively affair. The investor lobby group Pirc is calling on shareholders to vote against the re-election of the chairman, Douglas Flint, on the grounds that as the former chief executive of the bank he can hardly be deemed independent. There are also bound to be questions over chief executive Stuart Gulliver's ￡8m pay package.The low-cost airline Ryanair upped its guidance for full-year profits from ?440m (￡355m) to ?480m in January, and it might even beat that slightly. Of more interest will be chief executive Michael O'Leary's comments on the chances of a special dividend this year.Results: BTG; British Land; Cranswick; Cable & Wireless Worldwide; E2V Technologies; Mitie; Ryanair.TomorrowIs the smooth -talking Dutchman Marc Bolland about to impress for more than the cut of his fine suits? On Tuesday he unveils full-year results at Marks & Spencer, a closely watched annual event. Like other retailers it has suffered from depressed consumer conditions, and the weather hasn't helped much either.He has won credit in retail land for overhauling stores to make them more easily "shoppable", and most agree that M&S's food offering has improved. Some say the clothes are still dull, though. Panmure Gordon says it prefers Next and Asos, noting that M&S's fourth-quarter trading update was a clear disappointment. It reckons that full-year profits will come in at ￡689.4m, a bit below the City consensus, and says the shares are no better than a hold at 347p.Results: Bloomsbury; Big Yellow; Homeserve; Marks & Spencer; KCom; UK Mail; Vodafone; Yell.WednesdayFresh from notching up record sales of ￡1bn in just six months, the luxury fashion house Burberry is expected to deliver more good news from investors with a healthy rise in annual profits to ￡367m-￡377m. Angela Ahrendts' business ? fast joining Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton as a global designer-label superpower ? has enjoyed the biggest success in British, French and Chinese markets, defying wider global turmoil. The shareholders have down well too: the FTSE 100 may be sinking fast, but Burberry's shares are up 20 per cent since Christmas.Meanwhile the property firm Shaftesbury ? owner of swaths of Chinatown and London's Theatreland ? should also sparkle with interim results. Visitors are still flocking to the West End despite the downturn, prompting heavy demand from tenants for its shop and restaurants. The Diamond Jubilee and Olympic Games are also putting the capital in the shop window, although Shaftesbury is braced for short-term disruption this summer as public transport creaks under the influx of tourists.Results: Burberry; FirstGroup; Great Portland Estates; Telecom Plus.ThursdayDaily Mail & General Trust's half-year results should give an indication about whether advertising is getting a lift from the Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics. DMGT is set to be dropped from the FTSE 250 because it has a high proportion of non-voting shares, but Numis says fundamentals are strong, noting that "earnings momentum feels like it has at last reached a positive inflection".Investors in Cable & Wireless Communications will be hoping to see improvement in the full-year results for the telecoms specialist for emerging markets including Panama, the Bahamas and gambling-mad Macau. CWC warned in February that profits in some regions would come in at the low end of expectations, but it is making the business leaner, and recently sold out of Fiji.Results: Asos; Booker; Cable & Wireless Communications; Dairy Crest; Electrocomponents; Mothercare; Qintiq; SabMiller; United Utilities; Young & Co's.FridayStrong results from rivals lately should set the wind fair for full-year results from the property developer Helical Bar and investors will also be seeking an update on its plans to build new shops, offices and 200 flats near St Barts hospital in the City of London. Its chief executive, Michael Slade, sold 200,000 shares at 193p a share on 30 March, which could give an indication of how he sees the market. Doubtless he will argue otherwise. Chairman Giles Weaver also sold a bunch ? 36,000 ? at 188p a share. Lucky them, the shares have fallen to 177p since.Results: Helical Bar.Economics DiaryTODAY: Rightmove house prices for May.TUESDAY: Public Sector Net Borrowing figures for April. CPI and RPI inflation indexes for April. OECD economic outlook.WEDNESDAY: Minutes from Bank of England's Monetary Policy Committee meeting in May. Plus Bank agents' summary of business conditions. European Union leaders' summit in Brussels. US homes new sales figures for April.THURSDAY: Office for National Statistics second estimate of GDP in Q1 2012. ONS index of services for March. BBA mortgage approvals for April. Eurozone manufacturing, services and composite PMI flash estimates for May.?News from the Professional Boards Forum that almost 100 women were made directors of the UK's top businesses last year suggested that a Government-commissioned report by former trade minister Lord Davies had been taken seriously by the City. In February, he told corporate Britain that 25 per cent of their directors had to be women by 2015.The hires ? which included Stacey Cartwright, the finance director of Burberry who joined GlaxoSmithKline's board; Linda Gillespie Stuntz, who went to Shell, and Laura Cha, who joined HSBC ? meant women made up 27 per cent of the total of FTSE 100 board appointments in 2011.Despite the progress, that still put the overall number of FTSE 100 directors who are women at just 15 per cent ? and that's an all-time high. The index of the country's biggest listed companies still only has four female bosses and there are only nine in the FTSE 250.That's a long way off equality, or even Lord Davies' target, but at least the pace of change is accelerating. It wasn't until 1997 that a FTSE 100 company was finally led by a woman, with Marjorie Scardino taking the top job at Pearson. There was then an eight-year gap before a second female FTSE-100 boss was appointed: Dorothy Thompson at power generator Drax in 2005.All the research suggests investors should encourage the trend. Lord Davies' report included the statistic that companies with more women on their boards out-perform their rivals with a 42 per cent higher return in sales, a 66 per cent higher return on invested capital and a 53 per cent higher return on equity.At least it is no longer necessary for emale executives to take a long walk to the ladies every day because the only facilities were for men. That was the experience of Martine Verluyten, a non-executive director at Thomas Cook and 3i, when she rose to prominence in the City.Here, she and two of corporate Britain's other prominent female board members explain what has changed ? and what still has to happen.Gay Huey Evans, 57Started her career working on a trading floor at Paine Webber in New York. She went on to become head of governance at Citi's alternative investments unit in Europe and was the Financial Services Authority's director of capital markets. A previous vice-president of Barclays Capital, she's now a non-executive director at Aviva and The London Stock Exchange Group."Financial services firms are trying to redress the balance. Both LSE and Aviva have a significant proportion of women at senior management level, and on the board. But we do have to do more."Women operate differently, we're much more understated ? and those skills are frequently underappreciated in financial services. It's getting better, though."We had no support then; no mentors, and many women would fall out of the workforce, I remember times when I'd sit and cry because there was no one to talk to. Now I speak to women's groups, and encourage anyone who feels that they've been passed over for promotion or that they're not being listened to to talk about it, whether to a formal mentor or a friend."We still need to encourage more chairmen to consider women for board positions, but it's not just about women ? some of my colleagues who are from ethnic minorities have felt held back too. I do think, though, that people are recognising ? particularly after the banking crisis ? that balanced boards lead to better businesses. You need diverse ways of thinking."Katherine Innes Ker, 49Started out as media analyst before becoming a director at SBC Warburg. She later took on non-executive directorships at The Television Corporation and the housebuilder Taylor Woodrow. She's currently on the board of transport group Go-Ahead and developer St Modwen Properties."The main difference between when I joined my first public company board 12 years ago and now is that it's a given that when we search for a NED we expect to see women candidates on the list."I don't think it's discrimination. It's simply that until relatively recently it hasn't been fully recognised that there were plenty of capable, qualified women. Some headhunters tended to go to the usual types. They weren't all like that, though, and I joined my first board after my name was given to a headhunting firm."Women need to have confidence in their ability ? there's nothing magic about it. Put yourself forward, go to headhunters, be aware that the process always takes quite a while and just don't give up."Martine Verluyten, 60Has held a string of finance director posts, including at technology groups Umicore and Mobistar. The Belgian woman was appointed a non-executive director at travel group Thomas Cook last May and at private equity house 3i in December."Boards are becoming more female because women like me, who have had an interesting career, are ready to do something wider. I've never felt discriminated against, and I think that's partly because I don't walk around with a chip on my shoulder saying 'poor me, I'm a woman'."At the start of my career, I was only the second woman in audit at KPMG. Later in my career, I had to go to another floor to use the toilet because there wasn't a woman's loo on the floor of the senior executives."Thomas Cook has been through a rough time recently, but that's when the board becomes most important ? you can contribute more when helping a company get through the worst times. Usually firms have the competency to solve a problem, but don't listen to the right people. That's one of the strengths women provide ? we're more apt to listen, and not to stick to preconceived ideas."In my experience, British boards are more open to women than those on the Continent."?But the past decade has not been kind to Marks & Spencer, and yesterday the company reported that like-for-like sales in the past quarter had fallen by 2.8 per cent. Sales of food were up by 0.6 per cent, but general merchandise was down by 6.8 per cent in the 13 weeks to 30 June. A statement released by the company showed that the home section had delivered a "positive performance". Instead, it was clothing that was to blame for the worst quarterly figures since Arcadia mogul Sir Philip Green launched a takeover bid in 2005.As the figures emerged, Marks & Spencer announced the departure of its executive director of general merchandise, Kate Bostock, by "mutual consent". Ms Bostock, who will step down from her ￡944,000-a-year position on the board in October, was believed to have had a strained relationship with the current CEO, Marc Bolland. The chairman, Robert Swannell, thanked her for her "significant contribution" to the firm, and online retailer Asos refused to rule out poaching her for its swelling business. Ms Bostock's role as the queen of British retail has been divided in two. John Dixon, who transformed the Simply Food brand, will now lead general merchandise. He will be aided by part-time "style director" Belinda Earl, who will work for between two and three days a week.It is not difficult to see why she was appointed. Ms Earl was responsible for ridding Jaeger of its mumsy image and turning it into an essential London Fashion Week ticket for any self- respecting fashion editor.But the decision has met with scorn. Neil Saunders, managing director of analyst firm Conlumino, said: "With a business the size of Marks & Spencer, you need someone working full time with experience in fashion. It feels like a compromise to me. Both of them are very talented, but it feels like a piecemeal approach."But why is M&S suffering so badly? Outside one store in London, customers found it difficult to fathom. Stylish Marcia Jones, 35, said the fashion had "improved over the years," and that she shopped there often.Older customers were even fonder. "You can change the clothes without any quibbles if they're the wrong size, and the shop is always clean," said one. Another added: "My only complaint is that the quality of the material isn't as good as it used to be, and I've been shopping here for years."In the cut-throat world of retail, being kind to customers returning their stock just isn't enough, and analysts took delight in savaging the retail giant's clothing wares."Turning around Marks & Spencer fashion is like turning around an oil tanker," said Mr Saunders. "It's a game of two halves: Simply Food has been robust and that reflects the innovation and quality that goes into the product. But when you move over into clothing, it's very staid and it's difficult to see who it is being targeted at."It's not clear why something in the Autograph collection costs more than the Classics collection, it's not presented in a different way. And when shoppers are confused, that's when they take their custom elsewhere."When Twiggy re-signed a deal to promote the M&S brand in 2005, a couple of expensive new television advertisments emerged to celebrate the fact the store had finally brought itself up to date with the latest trends. Its models were more accessible than those used by high fashion brands, but they didn't patronise shoppers with messages about "real women".In 2007, singer and television presenter Myleene Klass signed a deal worth a rumoured ￡1m to front the campaign, and it is hard to imagine other celebrities such as Dannii Minogue settling for anything considerably less. These adverts stopped the rot, and the freefall in clothing sales of the early 2000s ended.In April, a similar campaign launched, featuring Gary Barlow as well as Twiggy and Klass. And yet it appears to have had no effect. Mr Saunders claimed it was down to the fact that people have realised the glossy adverts don't match up to what is on offer on the shop floor."Marks & Spencer has been very good in terms of marketing, and the adverts are very aspirational. But the reality of the stores and the product is very different. They're not brave enough, and they seem to pussyfoot around and the result that you see in the stores is underwhelming. The adverts show they know where they need to be going, but they need to change the stores and product," he said.And the "substantial fall" in sales isn't necessarily down to the current economic climate or ? as the company claimed ? "unseasonal weather conditions". Conlumino estimated that in the same 13 weeks, clothing sales were up by 1.9 per cent, meaning the firm's market share has shrunk considerably. It only compounds the misery piled on two weeks ago, when its value was surpassed by Next (￡5.1bn to ￡5.29bn).These are tough days to be a middle market retailer. Online shopping is becoming an ever greater threat, and the market is increasingly polarised."High fashion brands such as Burberry are doing very well, as are low end, cheap and cheerful brands such as Primark," said John Ibbotson, co-founder of Retail Vision.But to reinvigorate their sales, there's no point in changing direction, he said. Instead, they should focus on "their core customers, and make sure their offer appeals to the older middle classes".Going out... Kate BostockImpressed Stuart Rose, former executive chairman of Marks & Spencer, with her successes as product director of Asda's affordable George clothing line. She also impressed, initially, as executive director of general merchandise at M&S, and at one point there were rumours that Bostock, now 54, would succeed Rose. Instead, she will step down later this year.... coming in: Belinda EarlStarted at Debenhams as a Saturday girl, and became its chief executive in 2000 aged just 38. She joined the Jaeger group as CEO in 2004, but left owing to ill health earlier this year. Now she is joining Marks & Spencer as part-time style director.?Her marriage is wonderful, she's given up alcohol and from tomorrow she's hosting the nightly 'Strictly' spin-off show 'It Takes Two'?The news came after Monday's announcement that British name Jaeger would be sold to Better Capital, owned by distressed-debt expert Jon Moulton, for just under ￡20 million. Businessman and chairman of the British Fashion Council, Harold Tillman, bought the company in 2002 and added Aquascutum to his portfolio in 2009, after it sustained losses of ￡24m the previous year. It is understood he sold his majority stake in Jaeger this week in order to protect that label from Aquascutum's inevitable decline, given the impossibility of a turnaround in its health.To anyone with even a passing interest in the industry, the fact that both Burberry and Aquascutum are famous for their trenchcoats and heritage status will not have gone unnoticed. So why should one blossom and the other wither? It's to do with hard times, of course, but also with marketing and vision.Once upon a time, Burberry's signature checks were the stuff of football hooligans and Daniella Westbrook, but the company famously undertook an image overhaul in the early Noughties which has seen it go from strength to strength. The introduction of young British starlets and rock star progeny, such as Emma Watson, Otis Ferry and Eddie Redmayne, into glossy advertising campaigns shot by Mario Testino ? not to mention enormous engagement with digital platforms such as Facebook, Twitter and real-time catwalk shopping ? has ensured a high-end, cool image for the label both at home and overseas (its biggest fanbase is in Asia, where sales rose 37 per cent to ￡387m this half), without losing any of its homegrown USP.But Burberry's success is also partly down to its chief creative officer Christopher Bailey's and chief executive Angela Ahrendts' visionary approach. When Bailey took on the mantle in 2001, he understood that the way to treat a "heritage label" is to reinvent that heritage for a new generation. They did this, softly and subtly at first, by using the main catwalk collection to deal with directional, seasonal trends (and dropping the signature checks from this), all the while recognising the democratic need for cheaper diffusion lines which sold the standard-issue pieces, handbags and scarves complete with checks, for a broader and more aspirational class of shopper. He worked those pieces into a more youthful aesthetic too ? and, in doing so, Burberry's public face became at once cool and cult, losing none of the prestige that comes of being something of an institution.But Aquascutum, once a stalwart of the British wardrobe, relied on that image, and on a waning demographic, for slightly too long. By the time designer Joanna Sykes joined the label as creative director in 2010, it was already too late. Her classic and more than competent designs garnered praise from the press who attended the shows, but they have failed to make an impact in a market where shoppers are cautious and status buys must be exactly that.Having dressed everyone from Margaret Thatcher and the Queen to Humphrey Bogart and Cary Grant, Aquascutum has the credentials but not the clout. Where Burberry made its tradition relevant to a new audience, Aquascutum has not ? the trick is to grow alongside your customers, rather than hanging in there until they die off.It was much the same story with Hardy Amies, another outfitter to the royals, which went bankrupt in 2008 having similarly failed to find a niche for its offerings. The name has since been bought and revived ? something which may well happen with Aquascutum too, as prestige and familiarity like this are hard to kill off.But where the old guard of British heritage brands are content to dress the Duchess of Cornwall and her ilk, Burberry has experienced a massive boost to sales since Kate Middleton sported one of their trenchcoats. And that's the generational difference, right there.?Going to a fashion show is nothing like the films. For while their format is rigidly hierarchical (the more important you are, the better your view is; pity the lackeys craning their necks around flamboyant headgear from the fourth row), their process is oddly democratic. Anna Wintour gets stuck in the same bottleneck waiting to leave as everyone else does, and there are few other events where one finds such unfettered access to celebrities. Say one of them happens to sit in front of you, a matter of inches away ? you find your own haggard visage lurks in the background of well-publicised pap shots the next day.Without wishing to summon the unbridled bile of the non-believer, fashion week is actually hard work. Fourteen-hour days of back-to-back shows in various locations leave little time to be glamorous. Truly, it takes a seasoned professional to figure out whether even stuffing in a canape might make you late for the next event.Following the nadir of tardiness in 2007, when Marc Jacobs's show began 75 minutes late, most designers tend to get going as quickly as possible. This often results in a scramble from one side of the city to the other, frantic with angst that you may miss not only the next show but also your one chance for a wee all day.Shows deal in specific strata, from fashion students who somehow breeze in without a ticket to Americans who jet over, groomed to within an inch of their lives, ushered immediately to their seats by a praetorian guard of PRs. Bloggers and street-style photographers people the venues, snapping away with SLRs and iPads aimed not only at the catwalk but also at the outfits of passers-by. These outfits, which always look so effortless, are of course the result of furious planning ? some editors and celebs change their clothes between their shows, although how and when we mortals can only guess.But it isn't all about one-upmanship: a great fashion show holds its diverse audience in a spell, whether clothes are arresting or utilitarian. The power of a good tune to get the front row on your side should never be underestimated during the brief actual showing of clothes (20 minutes or so), although there is little worse than tapping your feet to an obscure disco track only to find someone who didn't even make the X Factor judge's houses is doing a full-on sedentary groove opposite.And then, of course, there are the collections, the most powerful of which speak for themselves with no need for pyrotechnic bells and whistles. Just remember not to be so awed by the clothes that you get stuck at the back of the exit queue, miss your lift and have to walk home in your platform brothel-creepers.?It certainly doesn't appear to be. On her feet are the signature elevated platforms, a variation of which Naomi Campbell famously fell from back in 1993. On her head is an oversized helmet complete with a veil of bronze sequins, Westwood's fiercely glamorous alternative to military netting. The designer is recreating a style that she dreamt up for the Paralympics closing ceremony ? this is the morning after the night before ? where she was asked to appear as Queen Boudica riding a chariot conceived by stage designer Joe Rush and the Mutoid Waste Company. Joe Corre, her son by Malcolm McLaren, and Andreas Kronthaler, her husband and partner in design, went along for the ride."Joe [Rush] is a friend of mine and he'd done all these brilliant things," she says. "When he asked me to be Boudica, I said: 'No, get a model, you don't need me, anybody can do that'. And then afterwards I thought: if I can use it, then I'll do it."And use it she did. Vivienne Westwood, Queen of Punk, grande dame of British fashion, media manipulator par excellence, one-time agent provocateur and now, more passionately evangelical still, full-blown activist, went so far as to avoid the dress rehearsal, knowing that should her intentions become clear, they might be quashed, whether they were to save the planet or not."I had to deceive everyone because I had this thing printed inside my dress and I knew they'd have checked," she says, her sense of mischief clearly as acute as ever. "They'd have asked: 'Have you got any branding?', 'Is there any nudity?'." Given that Westwood famously picked up her 1992 OBE from the Queen wearing no knickers, they might hardly have been blamed for that. These days, though (and now a Dame), she has serious issues, over and above mere indecent exposure, in mind. "I didn't feel that guilty because, you know, if I'd told them what I was up to they'd be duty-bound to stay on the safe side and not allow me to do it ? and people always end up liking that sort of thing I think."She hasn't seen the televised version of the stunt in question as yet. Westwood doesn't approve of watching TV, although she did cast an eye over at least part of July's Olympics opening ceremony. "I thought the beginning, with this green, pleasant land, the towers coming up, the hospital beds and the Queen was really wonderful. After the punks though… Whatever… I'd had enough." And the closing ceremony, where she was one of only five fashion designers represented (the others were Burberry, Victoria Beckham, Christopher Kane and Alexander McQueen), also failed to capture her attention more than briefly. "I did see the bit with my dress but, honestly, that's not so important to me. Fashion is my job and I just get on with it."Vivienne Westwood, now as ever, uses fashion as a platform to express her views and, at the very least, tell a story that extends beyond the realm of clothes. Her interest in the bigger picture belies the fact that she is among the most influential designers in history. This season alone, London-based designers including Louise Gray, Meadham Kirchhoff, Sibling, Kinder and more have referenced the anarchic spirit with which she made her name. In America, meanwhile, it was announced last week that the subject of next year's most important fashion exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute will be Punk: Chaos to Couture, a show that will, doubtless, follow Westwood's trajectory more closely than any other's. And that's a smart move: the parallels between the world then (the late Seventies) and now are impossible to ignore for even the most polite fashion commentator. In the past, Westwood has reluctantly spoken about the impact of the movement she dressed so impressively. Now, though, she says: "Johnny Rotten's songs really were very clever weren't they? 'No future. Your future dream is a shopping machine'. Yeah. That's what he was on about and that is what we are, we're a consumer society."fNot only did Westwood give the world the uniform of punk, but there followed 1981's Pirates, her first collection shown in Paris, that ushered in the New Romantic movement. "The punk always used to take things around himself out of the gutter, if you like, any old rubbish," she once told me. "There were these Irish punks who used kettles as handbags and do you remember getting crisp packets and baking them in the oven so they shrank? They were wearing those like brooches. Then there was Sid [Vicious] with his toilet-paper tie… Malcolm and I always said that we wanted to get off this island and plunder history too, and the world, like pirates. We didn't want to be seen as token rebels."The Buffalo Girls collection (1982) ? inspired by Latin American Indians and featuring asymmetrically-layered skirts and petticoats ? came next and, not insignificantly, bras worn over blouses a good 10 years before Madonna's Jean-Paul Gaultier-designed conical bra. Later, Westwood gleefully reclaimed (and reinvented) the uniform of the British aristocracy and of royalty with mini-crinis, Harris Tweed and crowns; she turned to French Old Master painting for inspiration for, by now, signature corsetry and overblown ballgown skirts. The list goes on, and on, and on. More recently, and in line with a move towards more ethical values, she has reintroduced the virtues of DIY designs that were once an integral part of punk's spirit, advocating the joys of, say, cutting up a tablecloth to make a skirt or wearing your (male) partner's underwear as shorts ? just as she herself does. Suffice it to say, though, that her skills as a pattern cutter are rather more deft than most.For more than 30 years, Westwood has designed clothes for heroes. Outrageously flamboyant if not plain outrageous, they are beautiful, brave and often swim against the tide. Of today's so-called icons, she says: "Thatf Victoria Beckham, she always looks neat and sort of minimal and tidy". "That's not bad and her designs are good designs if you happen to like that sort of thing." She pauses for a moment before adding, with patrician hauteur: "But I don't". It would be "really great", she adds, if also neat and "posh ? which is good" Kate Middleton and Samantha Cameron "formed the habit of not always changing their outfits, and wore the same things over and over again". As a woman in control of one of very few independently-owned and globally-recognised brands, she is also a force to be reckoned with. And people love Westwood for that, from fledgling designers for whom she is a source of inspiration, to the obsessive ? truly obsessive ? Westwood devotees who save up to buy her clothes. For Westwood, the thinking behind her brand is straightforward: "You have a more interesting life," she argues, "if you wear impressive clothes."So what is more important to the designer than fashion and the company she has presided over for so long now? She is a patron of Reprieve and Liberty. She supports Amnesty International, Environmental Justice Foundation and Friends of the Earth. She is a long-time advocate to free Native American Leonard Peltier. She backs the Greenpeace Arctic Campaign and this year donated ￡1 million to rainforest charity Cool Earth. Her interest in human rights stretches right back to childhood. "I've said this before and I was embarrassed to tell people at first, but I think I was about four when I came across this picture of the Crucifixion. It was in my cousin's calendar. I'd never seen it before being a Protestant. Anyway, I just couldn't believe it. And ever since then I've thought people have to stop doing these terrible things."Five years ago, meanwhile, she read environmentalist James Lovelock's Gaia hypothesis and surmised that humanity was "an endangered species… Our economic system, run for profit and waste and based primarily on the extractive industries, is the cause of climate change," is how she explains it. "We have wasted the earth's treasure and we can no longer exploit it cheaply… Economists treat economics as if it is a pure science divorced from the facts of life. The result of this false accountancy is a wilful confusion under cover of which industry wreaks its havoc scot-free and ignores the environmental cost." At around the same time Westwood wrote her manifesto, 'Active Resistance to Propaganda', a text peopled by everyone from Ancient Greek philosophers to Disney cartoon characters ? Westwood is interested in appealing to the young especially ? to inspire an interest in learning and culture, in place of indiscriminate consumption.Westwood is not unaware that all of the above begs the question: how can a designer at the forefront of a globally recognised and, yes, ever-expanding fashion business possibly point the finger at anyone without also incriminating herself? "Guilty," she says, literally holding her hands up. "My main point, though, is quality rather than quantity. It's a question of trying to have less product but for it to be great. I am definitely very worried about the extent of shipping and travelling. We're a worldwide operation and we're sending clothes all over the world, all of the time, and we have to find ways of dealing with that, of running down our carbon footprint. I want to see what we can do with the company that will be usefully good. What I'm always trying to say to the consumer is: buy less, choose well, make it last."Putting her money where her mouth is, she has now changed into somewhat more modest attire ? a draped white organza "summertime" dress which hails from her spring 2000 Gold Label collection: it is 13 years old. "Andreas moans at me sometimes and says myf clothes are beginning to look a bit threadbare or something," she says, "but I don't care. I like these things. I'm kind of insisting that however lovely a dress in a more recent collection may be, I actually like this one just as much so I don't need it."Vivienne Westwood was born Vivienne Isabel Swire in Glossop, Derbyshire, on April 8, 1941. Her father came from a long line of cobblers; her mother worked in the local cotton mills when she wasn't at home looking after her children. When she was 17, her parents bought a post office and moved to South Harrow in Middlesex. After working in a factory for a short while, Westwood went to teacher training college and then married Derek Westwood and had her first child, Ben, by him. The marriage lasted three years, during which time she taught and made jewellery which she sold on a stall on Portobello Road. She soon met McLaren (then Malcolm Edwards) and became pregnant with her second son, Joseph. In 1971 she gave up her day job. McLaren had opened a shop called Let It Rock at 430 King's Road, London, and Westwood filled it.It is the stuff of fashion history that in 1972, and in line with the fashion that was developing its own distinct character, the name changed to Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die and then, in 1974, to SEX. When, in 1976, the Sex Pistols, managed by McLaren, released "God Save the Queen", it became known as Seditionaries until, in 1980, and with Westwood disillusioned with the mainstream's adoption of punk and its main protagonists, she renamed it World's End. "I realised that they weren't real anarchists like we were," she remembers of punk's later, less radical protagonists, "they just wanted to be in a gang and smash anything to do with the older generation like kids do." That name ? and indeed the clock that hangs on its facade telling the time backwards ? remains.In 1976, Westwood, punk legend Jordan and then shop girl, Chrissie Hynde were photographed at the store wearing the type of rubber clothing inspired by fetish and pornography that SEX, in the period immediately prior to Seditionaries, was known for. Westwood herself, however, though in stockings, suspenders and suitably intimidating platform-soled footwear, is wearing a man's white shirt. On to that apparently unassuming garment she has scrawled the French Situationist slogan: 'BE REASONABLE: DEMAND THE IMPOSSIBLE'. It would be reasonable, neatly enough, to argue that this marvellously audacious sentiment still drives her."You can save the rainforest for ￡100 million," she says, for example. "It's not that much money. It's the advertising budget of Samsung. They could protect the rainforest for that budget and would get so much publicity out of it if they chose to do that." Westwood was invited to 10 Downing Street by former advisor to David Cameron, Steve Hilton, specifically to discuss this subject. "I couldn't believe it. A Conservative government that was interested in saving the rainforest. I thought that was brilliant. He was brilliant. Then he left. I don't hate David Cameron but all politicians are just so delayed."She is nothing if not outspoken. Westwood speaks disparagingly about Barack Obama (she's vehemently opposed to the use of drones) and Tony Blair is "a war criminal ? he should be in The Hague". Neither are her views on feminism quite what one might expect them to be. "I've got people here in this company who pay as much to the baby minder as they earn at work," she says. "Because they'd rather work than look after their child. But I think they have to really think about what they're doing."It seems only fair to point out that Westwood herself works and always has done. "I know and I was a terrible mother," she shoots back. "I didn't put my children first. You have to work today to make money but my mother didn't have to and we managed. I'm really glad to have been born during the war and afterwards during rationing time. We weren't rich but we were probably happier which I know is a cliche but it was before we had all this…" ? she searches for the word ? "this stuff."At 72, Westwood says that her greatest indulgence is reading (she's currently immersed in a biography of Aldous Huxley) and visiting art galleries. With the showing of both her spring 2013 Red Label collection at London Fashion Week and her Gold Label collection staged in Paris only days away, how, I wonder, does Vivienne Westwood find time for her day job?"Yeah, well, Andreas would like to know that as well," she laughs. "I just keep saying it's not my priority. Andreas is the most brilliant designer I have ever met. He's a genius. I've finally persuaded him to come out on to the catwalk with me now. He does at least half of the work. He's about the lining and the stitching and all of the fabric and everything. I'm the geometry of the thing. I usually work out the cutting principles, and the tearing of cloth, that comes from me too. I don't want to retire because my job gives me the opportunity to open my mouth and say something and that's wonderful. If I stopped, I wouldn't have my voice any more and I need it. What I wouldn't think is good is for a new person to become a fashion designer. I'd think, well, why on earth would you want to do that? There are enough of us now. A girl said to me recently: 'I really want to be a fashion designer but I also like biology'. I said: 'Do biology'."In the end, there is as much warmth, wit, intelligence and imagination to Vivienne Westwood herself as there is to her clothes which, for all her outside interests, remain a powerfully potent force.She knows that, but: "If I'm going to talk to someone for two hours then it can't just be about fashion. You know, I never really wanted to be a designer in the first place but about 15 to 20 years ago I decided that if I was going to continue I'd be better off starting to like it. I do think looking your best is really, really good for the spirit and my clothes allow people to project their personalities and express themselves. I offer choice in an age of conformity." A perfect Vivienne Westwood pronouncement.All clothes and accessories from a selection by Vivienne Westwood Gold Label, Red Label and Anglomania collections, available from 44 Conduit Street, London W1, 020-7439 1109, . Vivienne Westwood Gold Label and made to measure couture is available from 6 Davies Street, London W1, 020-7629 3757STYLIST: GEMMA HAYWARDPHOTOGRAPHER: DAN SMITHMODEL: Georgia Frost at SelectMAKE-UP: Alexandra Byrne at Terrie Tanaka using Chanel A/W 2012 and Rouge Allure 2012HAIR: Peter Lux at Frank Agency using Bumble & bumbleSTYLIST'S ASSISTANT: Lottie Dight?The company's shares have been buffeted by concerns about China recently, but Burberry stressed that the Chinese market accounted for only 10 per cent of its global revenues and that Shanghai and Beijing were only two of its 25 flagship markets around the world. The chief executive of Burberry, Angela Ahrendts, said: "[China] is a nice and strong market, but it is not a market that Burberry is overly dependent on. There are 25 Londons around the world and that is where Burberry is focused."?The Local Data Company reports that the average rate for empty shops in town centres is 14.3 per cent.David Cameron has been so worried that he commissioned the retail guru Mary Portas to suggest a revival plan, although his latest move to hand her a mere ￡1m to revive a dozen ailing high streets is hardly inspiring.It's true that countless retailers from local stores and newsagents to big chains such as Woolworths and Books Etc have closed since recession struck. Others, such as HMV, are struggling, and shoppers don't have much money, with youth unemployment close to one million.But this weekend many shops will be packed with teenagers and twentysomethings ahead of Valentine's Day ? think of those temples of cool, the Apple stores, or fast-fashion meccas such as Top Shop and Miss Selfridge.A new survey of more than 1,500 people aged 16 to 29 shows 77 per cent "love to shop" in physical stores, according to the advertising agency Saatchi & Saatchi. Almost exactly the same proportion of those surveyed said they have visited a high street in the previous week.However, the survey also shows that 47 per cent of young adults say they have no pride in or connection to their high street, with too many generic shops and "nothing aimed at young people".The big question is whether it is up to government, national and local, to lead the way in changing attitudes and behaviour. Many experts believe the answer must lie instead with business and local volunteers to improve the shopping experience, rather than just blaming external factors such as rents, rates, parking and out-of-town megastores.Magnus Djaba, UK chief executive of Saatchi & Saatchi, whose clients include Asda and T-Mobile, says some retailers are struggling because they have become too "transactional"."It's become 'how fast can I complete a transaction?' But if you think about the Apple store, it's not about 'how fast can I get a transaction off a young person?', it's about the experience," he says.Apple's Genius Bar ? where users who have a problem with their device can go online to book a store appointment in advance ? is a great example of improving the consumer experience.It is easy to argue that online is destroying the high street. However, only 9 per cent of all UK retail sales were online in 2011, according to research firm Mintel, which says the keenest internet shoppers tend be those aged 35-44, rather than the young."It's time we stepped back and ignored the media hyperbole," says Richard Perks, director of retail research at Mintel. "The high street is not dying."Some young shoppers agree."I only look online when I'm bored," says Heloise Brittain, 18, from Cheltenham. "Every couple of weeks, I'll fancy shopping on the high street but sometimes I'd rather go just to have a coffee with friends."But Alex Goodway, 16, from Willesden, north London, says that she likes to surf the web first before actually going to the shops."I probably buy a majority of stuff online because it's easier," she explains. "If I want to try it on, I'll go to the shops."When she does go out, she prefers a big shopping centre rather than her local high street, simply because the range of choice is better.It should not come as a surprise that some young shoppers are deserting their high streets.Yet brands as diverse as Apple and John Lewis have shown that an established physical presence compliments the digital experience and creates a virtuous circle. Retail watchers have been struck by how the auction site eBay recently launched a physical pop-up shop in Soho, London, while Amazon is considering opening a site in Dublin.For small retailers, there is a different challenge. Clare Richmond, who founded the Crouch End Project in 2007 to improve the London suburb, says they need to work harder to give consumers an incentive to shop locally. In her experience, small shops often don't have the knowhow or the time to market themselves in the internet age.The key is for businesses to "pull together", rather than operate individually, to create a sense of community. The Crouch End Project created a website to unite retailers, introduced a loyalty card and launched merchandising."It gives people a good reason to come back into Crouch End," she says. "We've brought out the pride."Saatchi & Saatchi found that 41 per cent of 16- to 29-year-olds have considered opening a retail business. Of those, three-quarters would choose their local high street for a site rather than a shopping mall.There is hope for the high street yet.Winners and losersJames ThompsonRetail is not rocket science. If a chain sells the right product, at the right price, in the right location, aided by decent customer service, then shoppers will come. Despite a brutal downturn, retailers including Sainsbury's, Waitrose, Iceland, Poundland, Primark and Dunelm, as well as the luxury players Burberry and Mulberry, have shown this theory still holds water. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the failures of debt-laden Peacocks, La Senza and Past Times show the impatience of banks when trading falls away at weaker players. But there is another category of retailer ? the structurally challenged with far too many stores, such as Game and HMV ? that face a battle for survival, as swaths of consumer expenditure move online. The tidal wave of the internet means these and many other chains could struggle to keep their heads above water in the long term.Shopping joy and pain14.3%Town centre shops empty77%Number aged 16 to 29 who "love to shop"9%Retail sales online in 2011 (compared to 2% in 2003)50%Online fashion sales through retailers with physical storesSOURCES: SAATCHI & SAATCHI; MINTEL; THE LOCAL DATA COMPANY?However, the ONS provided some hope for festive trading prospects by revising up its estimate of sales growth to 0.7 per cent over the past three months, which suggests that autumn trading had not been as bad as feared. Indeed, the sportswear specialist Sports Direct and the suit retailer Moss Bros both posted strong performances yesterday, proving that chains with strong management teams and the right product offer are making gains. But for the sector as a whole, November will go down as a month to forget, as consumers continued to cut back on high street spending in the face of stubbornly high inflation, anaemic wage growth and rising unemployment, which hit a 17-year high of 2.64 million this week. Stripping out the impact of petrol, retail sales volumes fell by 0.7 per cent in November, the ONS said.This was despite widespread discounting across the sector.Charles Lamplugh, the lead relationship director for retail at Lloyds Bank Corporate Markets, said: "Unseasonal weather has resulted in higher stock levels in the last quarter of 2011, meaning that November has seen a higher-than-usual amount of discounting. Retailers are looking to bring their stocks back to a comfortable level by the end of the year."According to a separate survey from the accountancy firm PricewaterhouseCoopers, 66 per cent of high street retailers are running sales or advertising promotions, such as three for two, this week ? higher than the 55 per cent last year, but down on the 80 per cent in 2008. Mark Hudson, the retail and consumer leader at PwC, said: "The traditional game of chicken between retailers and consumers is hotting up as Christmas approaches." Accounting for the impact of higher prices, retail sales by value jumped by 4.6 per cent in November on the same month last year, with volumes rising by only 0.7 per cent. In terms of individual retail sectors, sales volumes were down at food stores by 0.6 per cent in November over the year, and chains selling primarily non-food products fell by 0.7 per cent. Stephen Robertson, the director general of the British Retail Consortium, said: "The evidence we're receiving suggests consumers have approached this Christmas with great caution, reining in their spending in November."Perhaps demonstrating how higher petrol prices have reduced trips to out-of-town retail parks, small stores grew annual sales volumes by 4.5 per cent in November, compared with a 0.1 per cent decrease at large stores. Furthermore, spending on the internet continues to power ahead to account for 12.2 per cent of all retail sales. Illustrating the full force of internet Christmas shopping, the average weekly online spend surged to ￡787.9m in November, up 44 per cent on the ￡546.4m taken in the previous month.More positive news came from Sports Direct which posted flat pre-tax profits of ￡100.3m over the 26 weeks to 23 October, on group revenues up 8.4 per cent to ￡888.6m. Moss Bros grew like-for-like sales by 10.5 per cent over the 19 weeks to 10 December, as it benefited from robust demand for its own-brand products and selling a higher proportion of premium suits, including Ted Baker and French Connection.Shop shape: Life on the high streetLosers Blacks Leisure Has debts of ￡36m and forced to seek buyer after shareholders balked at cash call. Sports Direct, Mountain Warehouse and Go Outdoors, among others, could bid for part or all of the business. Game Warned on profits in November and has called in the restructuring team at Deloitte. Peacocks Plans debt-for-equity swap with Goldman Sachs and mulling closure of up to 200 shops.HMV Shares at 3.9p, debts of ￡171m and latest sales down by 15.1 per cent. Carpetright Half-year operating profits down by 93 per cent to ￡800,000 and passed on a dividend. WinnersMulberry Profits up 231 per cent to ￡15.6m in the six months to 30 September, on sales of ￡72.3m.Sports Direct Half-year profits held at ￡100.3m and revenues up by 8.4 per cent to ￡888.6m over 26 weeks to 23 October. Morrisons Grew sales by 2.4 per cent over 13 weeks to 30 October, ahead of listed rivals Tesco and Sainsbury's.Kingfisher (owner of B&Q) UK and Ireland division grew profits by 22 per cent to ￡56m for the 13 weeks to 29 October.Burberry Delivered 26 per cent rise in profits to ￡162m for six months to 30 September, on total revenues up 29 per cent to ￡830m.?Its update is a further sign that the luxury goods market shows very little sign of falling out of favour among the world's wealthy. Cartier's owner Richemont on Monday reported a 24 per cent leap in sales.Burberry's revenues hit ￡574m for the three months to the end of December ? ahead of some analysts' forecasts of ￡569m.The 156-year-old purveyor of trench coats, leather goods and fashion has been boosted by the continuing rise of the TLC ? "travelling luxury consumer". Tourists travelling the world from the Middle East, China, Russia and Brazil are boosting sales at stores from Las Vegas to Paris.Burberry will open its largest store yet in London ahead of the Olympics this year. Its chief financial officer Stacey Cartwright said: "We will continue with our flagship cluster strategy. London is particularly exciting this year. Regent Street will open before the Olympics ? our biggest store in the world."Despite the strong sales period, some experts warn a spending slowdown and rising inflation in China and elsewhere will hit the sector. ?Its update is a further sign that the luxury goods market shows little sign of falling out of favour among the world's wealthy. Burberry's revenues hit ￡574m for the three months to the end of December ? ahead of analysts' forecasts of ￡569m.The 156-year-old purveyor of trench coats, leather goods and fashion has been boosted by the continuing rise of the TLC ? "travelling luxuryconsumer"? who roams the world boosting sales at stores from Las Vegas to Paris.Burberry will open its largest store yet in London ahead of the Olympicsthis year. ?Age: 174History: The university is the former Polytechnic ofCentral London. Founded as Britain's first poly in 1838 to teach science andengineering, it was taken over in 1882 by philanthropist Quintin Hogg. Within ayear his Polytechnic Young Men's Christian Institute had 5,000 students.Address: Regent Street is the HQ. Three other centralLondon sites ? one on Marylebone Road opposite Madame Tussaud's, another in NewCavendish Street and one on Little Titchfield Street, as well as another campusat Harrow.Ambience: Four central London campuses are close togetherbut have little to do with one another. Regent Street has a listed marblefoyer, while Marylebone has had a ￡9.5m redevelopment of its teachingfacilities and an ￡11m redevelopment of its student accommodation. CavendishStreet houses science and complementary therapies and has recently received a￡35m redevelopment, and Harrow boasts high-tech facilities for students ofcommunications, design and media, management and computer science.Vital statistics: Nearly 25,000 students, of whomthree-quarters are undergraduates. A diverse student body: around 4,000international students come from more than 160 different countries. It’s atop-rated former poly with a decent reputation for research, it was the onlynew university to get a 5 (top rating) in the first research assessmentexercise - for media and communications, the jewel in its crown.Added value: Westminster claims to teach the widest rangeof languages of any university in the UK.Easy to get into? Depends entirely on the course. Anywherebetween 160 and 340 UCAS entry points required. For most courses you will needbetween 200 and 260 points and for some subject areas, specific A-levels arenecessary. For popular subject areas, such as media, arts and design, you needto show still more evidence of ability.Glittering alumni: Chris Wilkinson, Stirling Prize forArchitecture winner 2001; Michael Jackson, former chief executive of Channel 4;Julian Metcalfe and Sinclair Beecham, the founders of sandwich chain Pret aManger; Vivienne Westwood, fashion designer; Christopher Bailey, head of designat Burberry and British Fashion Designer of the Year 2005.Transport links: Central London - a true hub.Who's the boss? Environmental scientist Professor GeoffreyPetts, formerly of the University of Birmingham, where he led the Centre forEnvironmental Research and Training.Teaching: 111th out of 116 in the in 2011.Research: 64th out of 115 in the Research AssessmentExercise in 2011.Overall ranking: 73rd out of 116 in the .Nightlife: Intermission is the swanky new bar atMarylebone, plus the Undercroft bar and Area 51 club at Harrow. Otherwiseplenty of clubs close at hand in Soho and central London.How green is it? Not good at all ? came 107th out of 145universities graded by People and Planet for its 'Green League 2012', anassessment of environmental performance.Any accommodation? Yes, but a place in halls will cost youanything from ￡90 per week to ￡230 per week for premium accommodation.Cheap to live there? No ? private rents average ￡110 perweek.Sports ranking: 117th in the BUCS league table.Fees: As of 2012, Westminster will charge ￡9,000 per year.Bursaries: ￡400 for first-time undergrads in receipt of afull maintenance grant. Fee waivers of up to ￡1,500 per year will be availablefor some courses as of 2012.Prospectus: 020 7911 5000; UCAS code: W50?For the Indy's ten stocks we decided on a relatively conservative approach, designed to capitalise on the upside, but with what we thought would be some fairly safe bets in the event that things took a turn for the worse. They certainly did that, and some of the picks we were confident about (mining, anyone?) were real killers.But we can happily say we're ahead of the game (again). We aren't shouting from the rooftops but we turned ￡10,000 into ￡9,613 for a loss of just 3.87 per cent, compared with a 5.55 per cent loss for the FTSE 100.On to the new year, where we've gone bargain hunting, looking for stocks we think are under priced together with a couple of safety picks and a couple of out-and-out gambles.Lloyds Banking Group (25.9p)Looks to be a gamble. Everything about it screams no. But the shares trade at about half the net asset value of the business, and it is hard to see them falling much further from here, unless Lloyds is going to go bust. Which it won't be allowed to do. Chief executive Antonio Horta-Osorio returns in the new year with a point to prove and his chairman, Sir Win Bischoff, is breathing down his neck, having staked his reputation on Mr Horta-Osorio's abilities. The shares have been oversold.Moneysupermarket (105p)Not always a favourite of our investment column, it is trading well, has a low-cost model and good cash generation. It has also taken its ads downmarket to compete with those awful opera singers and meerkats foisted upon our TV screens by smaller rivals. On a forward multiple of 14 times earnings for 2012, it might not look all that cheap, but it yields a tasty 4.7 per cent and is a reasonably safe bet.Intermediate Capital (228.8p)An odd beast providing "mezzanine" finance, a type of financing that sits between bank lending, or senior debt, and equity. It says much that only a couple of years ago the shares stood at ￡13 and some analysts were putting out price targets of ￡20. The company is in a good position to benefit from many banks pulling out of the market for this type of financing. The shares look cheap and offer a huge prospective yield of 8 per cent.Burberry (1,185p)Crazy in this economic climate? No. The shares have been oversold on fears of a slowdown in China ? but it only accounts for 10 per cent of total sales, and is a greenfield site that is growing very strongly for the business. Even if China's economy slows, there is a lot for Burberry to shoot for. It boasts a truly global reach and exposure to fast-growing countries, and the City's forecasts are stratospheric.JD Sports Fashion (624p)The consumer squeeze means JD has been oversold and now looks good value. All of the key financial metrics at the group (pre-tax profit, earnings per share and dividend per share) are heading in the right direction. The Olympics and European Football Championships will not have as big an impact as at rivals Sports Direct and JJB but they will help, and at just five times forecast 2011 earnings, the shares are as cheap as chips.Providence Resources (204.5p)A gamble. The AIM listed oil and gas explorer, focused on off-shore Ireland, began drilling the first of a series of test wells in November to determine whether its Barryroe field, situated in the North Celtic Sea Basin off the coast of southern Ireland, has commercial quantities of oil. There is very little in Providence's share price to suggest that it does. The shares could easily double if the experts who think Providence is on to something are proved right.AMEC (907.5p)A safer resources bet. The engineering and consultancy firm to the oil and gas and mining sectors has been trailing rivals on fears that it may use a ￡500m cash mountain to overpay for acquisitions. Many analysts disagree. They say that if AMEC can't snap something up cheap, the cash will be handed back to shareholders. Also, with difficult-to-access oil and gas now all the rage, the skills of its consultants and engineers are in high demand.William Hill (202.8p)The bookie trades on a multiple of just 8.4 times 2011 forecast earnings, falling to 8 times 2012 while offering a prospective yield of 5 per cent (rising to 5.5 per cent). These are the sorts of numbers that should get any punter salivating. It's not immune to the consumer squeeze ? people will still bet, but they may lower their stakes. Still better placed than many, though. With a consistent and stable earnings stream, Hill's is badly undervalued.Rolls Royce (746.5p)Hardly cheap, trading at a slight premium to peers with a yield that is only moderate (about 2.9 per cent next year). Still, Rolls Royce has a strong portfolio of businesses, is superbly well managed, and broadly does what it says on the tin. If any of our more speculative tips fall over, this ought to hold the portfolio.African Barrick Gold (458.8p)A big loser for us last year. We're back for more, for the simple reason that if the prophets of doom are correct and the economy is going to nosedive this year, we want some exposure to gold. Plus the fact that ABG has fallen too far.The Experts' View: Mirabaud hopes for another winning yearOur experts didn't have an easy time in 2011. No one saw how badly the eurozone would stumble and its impact upon the markets in August, when share values lost billions. Their predictions for the end-of-year FTSE ranged from 5,900 to 6,550 and it was the most bearish of those, Steve Clayton from Mirabaud Securities, who wins the prize for the most accurate forecast. He's back for another crack this year.As for the shares, our panel did much better, with five winners (GlaxoSmithKline, BG Group, Rolls Royce, Telecity and AstraZeneca) and just three losers, although BSkyB were barely down, unlike laggards African Barrick Gold and BMW.The top performer? Mr Clayton again. His Telecity produced a gain on the year of just under 34 per cent. Mirabaud is one of the City's smaller houses but it clearly has a star on its hands. As usual we have an eclectic mixture of fund managers, analysts, brokers and spread betters tipping for us. Mr Clayton goes first.Steve Clayton, analyst, Mirabaud SecuritiesTelecity (647p): Their well-connected data centres command premium pricing to clients who need the fastest connectivity. During the year Telecity announced further new capacity expansion and the acquisition of the leading player in Ireland. As the digital economy grows, so does demand for Telecity.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5600.David Buik, partner, BGC PartnersSalamander Energy (201.9P): Despite the economic downturn, well-run energy companies have great appeal and Salamander is one of those. It conducts its exploration and production of oil and gas in South-east Asia and is well run by James Menzies.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5550Stephen Adams, head of UK equities, Kames CapitalBurberry (1,185P): In a period of anaemic global growth, we believe Burberry can deliver genuine expansion of the top line and at the same time drive margins upwards.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5700Phil Doel, manager F&C UKGlaxoSmithKline (1,471.5p): Continued distress in financial markets point me towards a company that can deliver most of its objectives without external help. GSK has a solid balance sheet and is highly cash generative.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5750.Jeremy Batstone-Carr, chief economist, Charles StanleyImperial Tobacco (2,435p): Year after year the tobacco stocks keep delivering. During periods of elevated uncertainty and economic crisis we would expect tobacco stocks to hold up well.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5,800Andrew Hannay, director, Robson MacIntoshRoyal Dutch Shell (2,371p): Qatar signed a deal this December with the company to develop a $6.4 billion petrochemicals complex and Iraq's cabinet approved a $17bn deal with Royal Dutch Shell and Mitsubishi on Tuesday to capture gas that is now being flared off into the atmosphere at southern oilfields.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5,900Andrew Darley, research director, FinnCapCorero Network Security (44.5p): Corero aims to find and acquire opportunities internationally in network security, where entrepreneurs have developed ideas and products but where the technologist needs to give way to professional operators.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5,800Joshua Raymond, chief market strategist, City IndexBurberry (1,185p): Burberry may be a stock to watch, having fallen 27 per cent from its June 2011 peak of 1610p. It has benefited from strong demand in emerging markets such as Asia. From a technical level, strong support lies around the 1000p mark, and this is a level where buyers could emerge.FTSE 100 Prediction: 5,900Luke's Top Five: Our toddler tipster's choicesThe Independent's guest share tipster Luke Moore, son of investment column editor James Moore, endured a tough second year.His portfolio was let down by the miners Antofagasta and Anglo American. Tesco also under-performed, as did his big punt, media company 4imprint. Only Burberry's bucked the trend to show a profit.This year, with his bedroom given a lick of paint and his assistants (mum, dad and the grandparents) at his beck and call, he's primed to join the City's elite and is hopeful of a turnaround.Armed with a pin and The Independent's share pages, he first found Ladbrokes (130p), a company his father has been happily taking money off, until the jumps season started and things took a turn for the worse. Luke thinks this augers well for the new year.He's also found Unilever (2,163p), a company whose multitude of brands are dotted about his house. It's a solid, defensive pick. Cooking is something Luke enjoys a great deal. He found Aga Rangemaster Group (71p), makers of uber-posh cookers. If this is intended as a hint to his parents, it's not going to work.Next there's International Power (337.2p). Luke certainly uses a lot, as his parents can testify having seen his impact on their electricity bills.Last up is broadcaster ITV (68.15p), quite possibly on the list after Luke was taught some "alternative" Christmas Carols. To whit: While Shepherd's washed their socks by night all watching ITV etc etc.?Click to view graphicNews that one super-rich customer had spent ￡100m for an unfurnished duplex in a new hotel cum apartment block directly opposite Nick and Christian Candy's ￡1.2bn One Hyde Park has elevated the notoriously choked intersection with Brompton Road and Sloane Street into perhaps the most valuable plot of land in the capital, if not the world.While much has been made of the popularity or otherwise of the four Lord Rogers-designed pavilions on the north side of the street, attention is now focusing on the new kid on the luxury block currently glowering at its rival from the south side behind branded hoardings and scaffolding.Due to open in spring 2012, the Bulgari Hotel and Residences boasts just eight apartments. So far seven have been sold with the most expensive reportedly commanding ￡7,000 per sq ft and a final penthouse still up for grabs for a reported ￡69m.It has yet to rival the ￡136m said to have been paid by Ukranian billionaire Rinat Akhmetov to secure Britain's most expensive flat in the Candy brothers' development opposite but it left those that must make their living beneath their edifices perplexed as to the attraction."There's no way I'd live here," said Wayne Leedham, a London cabbie familiar with the half-hour wait to pass Knightsbridge's luxury residences ? the Champagne bottleneck, as it could rightly become known. "It's been like this for ten years but people keep coming."Of course one attraction is the availability of luxury shopping (you'd be hard pushed to essentials but residents are not the types to frequent corner shops in search of milk). Europe's largest Rolex shop is situated on the ground floor of One Hyde Park while Burberry, Harvey Nichols and Harrods are all just a short stroll away. Bulgari already has its flagship store on Sloane Street.Even if the cabbies don't like it the area has long been synonymous with flamboyant wealth and aristocrats have queued up to build their mansions overlooking the park since the reign of George III.Liverpool shipping magnate Frederick Leyland commissioned the artist James McNeill Whistler to create the Peacock Room at his home on nearby Princes Gate. The entire room was eventually shipped to the United States to grace the home of an American tycoon.A more modern and considerably more controversial architectural interjection came in 1970 with the completion of Sir Basil Spence's modernist Hyde Park Barracks which houses the Household Cavalry and helps lend the area the aroma of horse manure. The barracks was completed a decade after the unloved office block Bowater House which was demolished to make way for One Hyde Park. In fact the entire area was nearly subsumed by a giant roundabout and subterranean pedestrian plaza in the early 1960s under a London County Council plan to improve the traffic flow. Luckily, perhaps, the 18th century street plan survived and since the 1990s the new money has flowed in from oil-rich Middle East nations and Russia as well as, more recently still, China and the Far East.The Bulgari hotel is the third of its kind to be operated by the Italian family jeweller which was bought this year by Paris-based luxury goods group LVMH. The company has revealed little in the way of detail about what purchasers can expect and spokesman Giles Hannah of Christies International Real Estate which is handling the sale on behalf of developers Prime Development Ltd, declined to comment yesterday.However Mr Hannah had earlier told Bloomberg that the limited number of permanent dwellings in the project created a premium opportunity. "Having the Bulgari brand adds about a thousand pounds a square foot," he said. "You look at the number of apartments at the other developments in London compared with the one I'm looking after, it's not possible to hand make everything in a larger development. Nothing here has been mass-produced," he added.Prime central-London prices have soared by nearly 40 percent since the slump and luxury home prices are expected to outperform the rest of the economy rising five per cent next year as investors seek a safe bolt holeBut such talk was of little consequence to those negotiating the noise and fumes below. "I prefer the old London," said Herman Depeinder, a Dutch tourist who has visited London three times in the past 15 years. "The city has changed in that time. Everything has become so expensive. Parts of the city are only for those who have money." Construction workers on the Bulgari site ? who know its charms as well as any ? are less than impressed by their surroundings. "I wouldn't want to live here, with the noise and the traffic," said one. "I wouldn't mind having the money to spend ￡100 million on a flat though."?Princess Diana changed all that. Or the clever people who drew up the guest-list for the Serpentine Gallery summer party in 1994. She arrived in a killer black dress, on the same day that Prince Charles discussed the collapse of their marriage in a Jonathan Dimbleby interview.Perhaps not a great day for the Royals, but one that transformed the face of the arts party. Suddenly, every A-, B- and C-lister was lining up to get into the party in Hyde Park. Last week's annual shindig drew Mischa Barton and a glittering shoal of models.The event inspired other galleries to do the same ? to reach out beyond their own industry's stars. As summer parties begin to kick off across the arts sector, we can perhaps expect the same extravagance.And yet, the blingy "big event" arts party is beginning to feel inappropriately flashy in our current climate. Call my complaint sour grapes ? I didn't get my Serpentine Gallery invitation this year ? but then, I remember feeling uncomfortable there last year, and the year before that.Of course, the gallery should be congratulated for bringing bling to the arts, on one level. It is a very networky and American way of doing business, by drawing rich potential philanthropists, sponsors, donors, to their doors.Yet now, in this climate of double-dip recessions and government cuts to arts funding (with the prospect of more cuts forever looming), this kind of hot ticket seems like a celebration of money, power, and fame, while the "arts" bit of the "arts party" is drowned out.Three years ago, when the recession sledgehammer first hit the arts, I was at the Cannes Film Festival and noticed that the film industry toned down its Cannes parties, which had always been the blingest of the bling. The industry did not give up schmoozing, or searching for film funding. The paring down was a symbolic gesture that acknowledged the larger economic environment, and hailed a new, non "conspicuous consumption" era.The Serpentine manages to do better than most to pull in major private sponsorship, and Julia Peyton-Jones, its director, clearly knows how to tub-thump for money, but two years ago, even she warned that private philanthropy cannot fill the gap that any reduction in government arts funding leaves behind.And does a high-voltage party send an unsavoury message out to the arts world? To have an arts event morph into a starry fashion and showbiz event too means it has, in some ways, become a prisoner of its success. Burberry sponsored last year's summer party and had its chequered umbrellas everywhere. This year, the fashion designer, Leon Max, sponsored the party.The books industry has kept it far more purist. You get the occasional celebrity at a books party but they have a reason to be there ? they've just written a memoir, or brought out a cookbook ? but even so, these "outsider celebrities" are like lesser-spotted Welsh snow leopards when we compare their numbers to those in the visual arts. Only insiders are invited as a rule, more so in our economically straitened times, when book launches are not half as common as they used to be.Over the last 10 years, there has been a significant diminution of publishing parties. There are still some grand ones, and when they're grand, they're really very grand: Bloomsbury pulls out all the stops in its annual Bloomsbury Square party, which always makes a splash. But what's different about it is that the stars of the party, and other parties like it, are the authors, whereas the star of this year's Serpentine Gallery party was, arguably, Mischa Barton.Bring back the warm wine, I say.?Part of it must be to do with heritage or homegrown brands such as Burberry, Mulberry and Aubin and Wills, who pride themselves strongly on their British roots, glamorising and fetishising what might at one stage have been seen as fusty, out-dated, country style, rather than the stuff of the luxury catwalks. Another reason that the woodland theme has taken off in such a big way is its inherent suitability for autumn, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness. Those rich, "jewel tones" are all the colours of nature and, in particular, the woodlands. The changing colours of the autumn leaves give us orange, gold, brown and ochre, the fur and feathers of our fauna offer brown, cream and ecru, while moss, lichen and conifer trees give us bottle green and blackberries and damsons provide the berry stains of plum and magenta.When it comes to wearing your woodland fashion, style it however you like. Wear it with jeans and a leather jacket, or more traditional fare like some autumnal corduroy trousers or a pencil skirt; some grey woolly tights and sensible brogues would also fit nicely alongside a crafty fox or wise old owl. Unlike other cute or kitsch trends, you don't have to live in Dalston or sport an oversized baseball hat to tap into this look; it's straightforward rather than ironic. Although there's no point being overly analytical, it's certainly true that this is the sartorial equivalent to comfort food.With the nights drawing in, political tensions and economic gloom on the horizon, it's the wearable equivalent of a steaming mug of hot chocolate ? or a reassuringly familiar bedtime story.?As the number of high-spending visitors from mainland China rises, tourist spots and shops, hotels and businesses in Britain are trying to encourage their custom.The Hippodrome Casino opens in central London in a fortnight, with one exit on to Chinatown decorated in metallic colours according to feng shui principles housing a separate Chinese community centre. Harvey Nichols announced last month that it would be introducing Chanel and Christian Dior to its store to appeal to overseas customers, and a sea-view property in Dorset has just gone on the market for ￡888,000 ? seen as lucky as number 8, ba, sounds similar to the word for wealth, fa.With the number of Chinese visitors rising 35 per cent last year to 150,000 and expected to double by 2020, the Chinese tourist market is growing increasingly important to the UK. Not least because the average Chinese visitor to Britain spends around ￡1,700 ? three times the average of ￡567.Stephen Boxall, managing director of the Ritz, said: "Chinese clientele have become some of the world's most discerning spenders, consistently listing Hermes, Chanel and Louis Vuitton as some of their favourite brands. Looking at the impressive double-digit growth in sales to wealthy Chinese tourists at both Harrods and Selfridges since the introduction of UnionPay terminals, it is clear this is a market with a significant expendable income, a desire for luxury brands and an increasingly well-travelled population who are looking to spend in the UK."Patricia Yates, director of strategy and communications at VisitBritain, said: "China is clearly one of the most important markets. This is why we're making every effort to not only showcase Britain's culture and heritage, but also show exciting city life, our music scene, that our shopping is the best and that we have beautiful countryside."But plans to set up Britain's first purpose-built Chinese holiday resort in Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire, were put on hold this year after the Welsh government said designs were unacceptable.The report of the Design Commission for Wales into the 100-bed hotel and 80 holiday home resort, with signs in Mandarin and English, read: "The bland, disparate and rootless architectural language, designed to appeal to international clients irrespective of site and location, does not do justice to the quality appropriate for this site."Lamidi Evbuomwan, an architect with contractors Maxhard, said in May: "It is unfortunate that the plans have been delayed because I believe this project would have regenerated the area."GamblingBritish racing is launching a multi-lingual website with Mandarin and Cantonese to promote itself to international tourists. While many racecourses serve Chinese fast food, Richard Mounsey, spokesman for the British Horseracing Associations said it was "quite a way from what you would pick up on the streets of Shanghai". The Hippodrome casino, opening on 13 July, has a back entrance opening on to Chinatown. The principles of feng shui have been adhered to on the Chinatown side, with metallic colours on the south side of the building. It also has a Chinese community centre with separate entrance, Chinese-speaking staff and all paperwork in Chinese. Chairman Simon Thomas said: "There is a dedicated cabaret theatre, which will see Chinese cabaret, and we will also be celebrating all of the Chinese holidays."Tour operators and travelVisitBritain is overtly courting the Chinese. It sent a Queen lookalike over to Shanghai for the Jubilee as well as a 3D canvas in Shanghai so people could virtually visit Buckingham Palace. Windsor Castle and London Bus Tours offer Chinese brochures and audio guides. The Roman Baths in Bath now attract 60,000 mainland Chinese visitors a year since translating their website into Mandarin.Glamorous Travel will use the numbers eight and six on tour car number plates and hotel rooms, but avoid the figure four as it is associated with death. Any tour price containing that figure is upgraded to five. Chief executive Yan Zhang said: "Our clients like attending exclusive clubs, especially the Oxford and Cambridge Club in London, because those universities are highly regarded by Chinese internationals."ShoppingHigh-end stores are courting customers from China. Burberry said that 30 per cent of UK sales were to Chinese customers last year.Harvey Nichols is introducing classic brands such as Chanel and Christian Dior, as they appeal to foreign shoppers, while Harrods and Selfridges have China UnionPay terminals instore. Harrods reported a 40 per cent increase in sales to Chinese customers after introducing more than 100 terminals. Chinese shoppers spent an average of ￡3,500 over Christmas 2010. The prestigious department store hopes this figure will double over the next five years. Selfridges is offering Chinese language lessons to staff.The designer store outlet Bicester Village is such a success ? it has become the UK's most visited Chinese tourist destination outside London ? that when David Cameron met the Chinese ambassador for advice on enticing more Chinese to Britain, the ambassador suggested to the Prime Minister that the UK should be building more just like it.Feng shuiThe Chinese art of maximising good energy ? qi ? is being adopted by homeowners and businesses. There has been a 10 per cent increase in people joining the Feng Shui Society in the past year, and a similar increase in the number of Chinese people contacting the society when they are buying, selling or renting property. The South-east is known as the wealth corner, and it is auspicious to place a fish tank or money plants to encourage prosperity.The society's Jan Cisek says businesses are especially keen. Brands including Coca-Cola, Orange, British Airways, Hiscox Insurance, Hilton Hotels and Marriott Hotels all use feng shui in a variety of business-related ways. High street banks also observe certain principles, such as rounding the corners within branches to avoid sharp lines.PropertyThe magic number 8 ? associated with wealth ? has led to Sotheby's Realty setting a guide price of ￡888,000 for a penthouse apartment overlooking the beach on the Sandbanks peninsula in Dorset.Peter Bevan, head of UK Sotheby's International Realty's Mayfair office, said he believes that after China's currency is internationalised "the mainland Chinese could be the dominant purchaser in the London property market". He said clients are often looking for investment properties which their children move into while studying, so locations close to leading universities are popular. Ultra-wealthy Chinese buyers look to Knightsbridge, Mayfair, Belgravia and Kensington specifically for new freehold houses or luxury apartment blocks.Harrods Estates has received an increasing amount of interest from Asian buyers, with 42 per cent of its sales coming from Asia.HotelsCongee for breakfast and Chinese tea in the bedroom, along with noodles and Chinese newspapers, are all touches designed to appeal to discerning Chinese tourists at London's top hotels. At the Ritz, numbers of Chinese guests have trebled since the hotel introduced China UnionPay (China's only domestic bank card) terminals. Mandarin- and Cantonese-speaking staff have increased, and guests arrive to find chrysanthemum tea, Chinese biscuits and Chinese magazines and newspapers in their bedrooms. A butler can advise on stores accepting UnionPay.The Dorchester offers Dragon's Pearl tea and noodles with Chinese newspapers, and ensures Chinese-speaking staff will be on duty.Hilton Hotels run to Chinese teas in rooms as well as slippers and a dedicated Chinese TV channel. Apex hotels translated their website into Mandarin in February and in two months saw revenue grow by 676 per cent.?The FTSE 100 Index fell 68.4 points to 5128.5 after worrying Chinese and US economic data added to fears about a Greek default. Today's fall means London's blue chip shares have fallen 13.7% in the third quarter of 2011 - its worst performance since 2002 when the dot-com boom ended. The UK's biggest companies have had some ￡212 billion wiped off their value in the past three months. World markets have been hugely volatile in recent weeks as investors panicked that the US and eurozone would be unable to keep up with payments on their huge debts and would lead the world back into recession. Today's falls were caused after a monthly survey by banking giant HSBC showed that China's manufacturing remained stagnant in September due to sluggish demand both at home and abroad. Poor data from the US added to the gloom today after the Commerce Department said incomes fell for the first time in nearly two years in August. This added to fears about the eurozone debt crisis, as Greek Prime Minister George Papandreou pressed European leaders, including French President Nicolas Sarkozy, to release the next ?8 billion (￡7 billion) bailout instalment for his country. Greece has warned it will default on its debt payments if it does not receive the money, which would create financial chaos. Markets across the globe fell amid the economic gloom. Germany's Dax lost more than 2%, the Cac-40 in France shed 1.5%. The Dow Jones Industrial Average in the US was down 0.5% as the London market closed. Louise Cooper, analyst at BGC Partners, said the markets were "all getting tired with trawling through the various conflicting comments from the many politicians and bankers". The German parliament yesterday voted in favour of a beefed-up European rescue fund, which initially soothed some concerns over the crisis but optimism faded. Investors are still troubled by the prospect of a debt default in Greece as the stand-off between the troika - the European Central Bank, International Monetary Fund and European Commission - and Greek officials over its fiscal package continued. The uncertainty was heightened when striking civil servants forced debt inspectors in Athens to postpone talks to decide whether Greece is making enough progress with its austerity measures. Ms Cooper continued: "The two potential outcomes for this crisis are very different. "Scenario one is where Germany gets its cash out and writes a very large cheque, despite the legal, constitutional and political problems of doing so. "Scenario two sees some sort of implosion, possibly involving a Greek default and a banking system meltdown. "Given these two potentially extreme outcomes, equities swing wildly from optimism to pessimism in a schizophrenic manner." The apprehension in the eurozone grew when Spain announced it had nationalised three troubled banks that failed to meet new capital requirements. The Spanish government now owns more than 90% of the shares in Unnim, CatalunyaCaixa and NovacaixaGalicia after capital injections. The banking sector in the UK was one of the worst hit today with Barclays down 5%, HSBC off 3% and Royal Bank of Scotland falling 4%. Ben Critchley, sales trader at IG Index, warned more volatility was in store for the sector. He said: "The eurozone sovereign debt crisis still has the potential to cause upset for some time yet however - it's set to put a liquidity squeeze on banks so this sector is going to be very much in the limelight moving ahead." The pound rose to 1.16 against the euro after the single currency was hit by weak retail figures from its biggest economy, Germany. Sterling was also up against the dollar at 1.56. Gold rose to 1627 US dollars an ounce after it was again boosted after being seen as a safe haven amid the financial chaos. Meanwhile, miners, such as copper giant Kazakhmys, and luxury goods firms, including Burberry, suffered as the renewed fears over China's economy surfaced. The weak manufacturing survey from HSBC came as a report said the cost to insure Chinese government debt against default had risen to its highest level since March 2009. Kathleen Brooks, research director at Forex, said: "The economic slowdown in China is threatening to drag the Asian powerhouse into the sovereign fray."PA?But now is the time to ask if you should be paying more attention to the country set to get the most gold medals in the future, rather than pinning your hopes on second place?"US is currently the biggest economy in the world ? but do I want to build an investment portfolio based on the rear-view mirror? No," says Oliver Gregson at Barclays. "Will the US have the same level of growth in equity markets? No. Emerging markets will be the best area for growth over the long-term. Emerging markets will represent the lion's share of global growth going forward."Investors have tended to hold more of their money in US stocks and shares, says Mr Gregson, but given the growth prospects for China, you could substantially increase your investments in the emerging markets, even if it means a bumpy ride along the way. "Investors could look to have around 10 per cent of their portfolio in emerging market equities for long-term investment," he adds.As China's prominence increases, with estimates it will contribute to 11 per cent of world GDP this year alone, you may want to capture the country's growth before it reaches the finish line, although it could be more akin to a marathon than a sprint."Most people are under-represented in this region because they are unfamiliar with it," says Russ Koesterich, the global chief investment strategist at iShares. "As emerging markets form a larger part of the global economy, it's reasonable people want to own more of it. But even if everything goes right with China, it's likely to be volatile."Although they may sit next to each other at atop the medal table, China and the US are leagues apart when it comes to investing. "These are two very different beasts, although they are the two biggest economies in the world," says Darius McDermott, the managing director at Chelsea Financial Services. "The US is a more developed market, and focuses more on corporate governance. China, on the other hand, has greater growth potential in terms of GDP, but there are far more risks involved."Despite the appeal of putting your money in China for the future, there are significant risks involved. "China is, effectively, still a Communist state," says Caroline Shaw of wealth manager Courtiers. "The US has always been freely capitalist. Also, how much do we know about Chinese companies? In comparison, we know lots about Apple and Exxon, for example."Having information on a company when investing is vital and it's hard to find on Chinese firms, adds Ms Shaw. "I'd pick the US over China, due to transparency. I know what these companies do, as there's available data in the US," she says.It would also be wrong to assume that just because China's growth is set to soar, its stock market will follow. Last year, funds investing in China were down 21.9 per cent on average, despite the country's GDP growth of around 9 per cent. In comparison, funds investing in North American companies were down 1.9 per cent on average."Some of the worst performing funds investing in China were down 30 per cent," says Gary Potter, a fund of funds manager at Thames River. "Just because China is growing from an economic perspective, and is seen as the engine of global growth, it does not often translate to stock market returns."Even recognising that gap, you do not need a China-specific fund. "There are many ways to tap China's growth profile ? you could find an investment where, as China grows, you have more weighting to the country and Asia Pacific," says Mr Potter. "People don't have to consciously say 'we must have more in China'."Rather counter-intuitively, buying Chinese equities is arguably not the best way to go about accessing China. "There are plenty of companies around the world to access this ? you don't need a China fund," says Mr Potter. "You want to diversify into high quality, large international businesses, which are exposed to the Chinese growth story."Mr Potter says the JP Morgan Global Consumer Trends fund, for example, invests in branded companies with exposure to consumers in China. "Companies like Burberry, Johnson & Johnson ? these are global businesses accessing the China story," he adds.On the other hand, you might err towards the US which is still an attractive investment, as the world's largest economy, that is robust in comparison with China, with strong demographics and many global-reaching blue chip companies. "The US is more attractive, no question," says Ms Shaw at Courtiers. "It does have some issues coming up, with the election and fiscal cliff at the start of next year, but these are known."But while there can only be one winner in the Olympics, you can have more than one in your investment portfolio, and a certain amount of exposure to the US and China over the long-term would be wise."If you are a very low risk investor, you don't want too much exposure to China, because it is volatile," says Mr McDermott. "If you are more balanced, then 15 per cent or 20 per cent in the US and around 5 per cent in China. And if you are younger, with a bigger risk appetite, have a greater allocation of up to around 20 per cent to emerging markets."When it comes to investing in the US, the market is very efficient and active managers have a tough time picking stocks that beat it, although there are some who have achieved this outperformance in certain years.Ian Aylward, a fund manager at Aviva Investors, says index tracker funds or exchange traded funds (ETFs) are a better way to invest in the US, although he believes in active management in the main. "One region where we struggle to find a manager who can outperform the market is in large cap US equities," says Mr Aylward. "We'd rather hold a tracker there, and it's very cheap."The Royal London US Tracker fund, for example, has an annual management charge of 0.20 per cent and aims to follow the return of a broad US market. There is also a wide choice of low-cost ETFs that invest in the S&P 500 market, such as the iShares S&P 500, with a total cost of 0.40 per cent a year.In contrast, the Chinese market is opaque and no way near as efficient. Mr McDermott says you should opt for an actively managed fund when investing in the country, recommending First State China Growth or one of Aberdeen's China funds."The majority of investors, though, should go for the broader Asia and emerging markets funds," says Mr McDermott. "These managers are keen on corporate governance, the quality of businesses, good balance sheets and buying at reasonable value."Emma Dunkley is a reporter for ?Tali LennoxTali Lennox is fabulous. There's simply no other word: an internationally recognised catwalk model by the age of 18, she skipped working the fashion weeks this year to go the annual Burning Man festival (a radical art-muso gathering in Nevada), and she has just been appointed the face of high-street label Mango. Her predecessor in that role was Kate Moss, but Lennox isn't fazed."In my first season, I was trying to make a point," she explains, having taken her initial steps on the catwalk for Marc Jacobs, Prada, Christopher Kane, Miu Miu and Acne (among others) during the spring/summer 2011 collections. "I wanted to show I'm not just who my mum is. Fashion week is hard work. It was a way of proving to myself that I could do something that wasn't given to me."Her mother, Annie Lennox of Eurythmics fame, may be present in the familiar crystal-clear skin, pouting lips and aquiline nose, but no one could accuse Tali of relying on her name.Despite the jet-setting and inherited celebrity, Lennox is refreshingly down-to-earth. Interested in art, she sequesters herself to paint whenever she can. "I can switch off while I'm doing it. I might be rushing around but I can sit and paint portraits for six hours at a time. I'm drawn to dark, distorted artists, such as Francis Bacon and Cindy Sherman, the sunken eyes and bruised faces. It's ironic, given my job is about being pristine, but it's liberating to be a bit messy."That messiness comes across as a lack of artifice in Lennox's work, which also includes a Burberry campaign shot by Mario Testino, as well as her personal style, a mix of high-street ("Topshop, of course," she says, having modelled for the brand's Christmas campaign last year), gifts from designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, and pieces rooted out at vintage fairs in London and Paris.Bonnie WrightWhat is there left to do when you have scaled the dizzying heights of celebrity by the age of 16? Plenty, says Bonnie Wright, now 20, who entered the public eye aged nine, when she landedthe role of Ginny Weasley in the Harry Potter franchise."I'm in the last year of a film degree," she says. "I'll graduate as a director, but it takes years to get the stories and the confidence to be a good director, and I'm scared to do it immediately. So I'm acting for now, stretching myself."There aren't many students who spend their final year starring in blockbusters while pondering their coursework, but in the past 12 months, Wright has not only written and directed her own film, inspired by the countryside around Dungeness in Kent, where she spent much of her childhood, she has also taken a role in an independent movie filmed in Indonesia about thought experimentation. The Philosophers will be released next summer.Since her parents are behind the jewellery label Wright & Teague, based on London's Dover Street, she is also well versed in the fashion canon, and has become a front-row regular since she came of age, when she took up her place as one of the industry's favourite clothes horses. "I love costume in film and how it develops characters," she says, "and, of course, some of the shows are very theatrical. When I was young, I used to love dressing up."Wright claims she had no inkling that she would get the part in the Harry Potter films; her brother, meanwhile, was convinced she was the girl for the role and it was his idea that she audition. "I'd love to do theatre," she adds. "It's another experience, isn't it? Something different every night."One thing's for sure, Bonnie Wright isn't about to get bored.Rita Ora"It's Gwen Stefani meets Where's Wally? with a bit of Bianca Jagger," says singer Rita Ora of her look, which is normally rather more low-key than these pictures suggest. "I mix and match high and low, so cheap jewellery and vintage clothes, maybe a vintage Chanel bag. I live on Portobello Road [in west London], so I'm always at the market there."She cuts a striking figure, with a shock of curly blonde hair and eyes deep enough to lose yourself in. And her musical style is similarly eclectic. "I was brought up on The Beatles, Duran Duran and Eric Clapton as well as a lot of soul, so I have an open mind. My music is pop, but with a twist. It's natural and honest, it's about real life and feelings, but it incorporates a lot of different genres."The 20-year-old Kosova-born singer-songwriter was raised in London, where she attended the Sylvia Young Theatre School. Eighteen months ago, she was signed to rapper Jay-Z's record label Roc Nation; a single is due out this year, ahead of her first album in 2012. As part of the project, Ora has worked with Jay-Z himself, Kanye West and Beyonce. "Beyonce was one of my idols growing up, so having her involved... I had to pinch myself. But you have to act calm; they're normal people. It's part of the process, these friendships you gain on the way."She's certainly well-grounded for one so young, but then she's been in the studio and cutting records since the age of 14. Yet, Ora will admit to a frisson of excitement at being invited to the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2012 show earlier this month, where she was seated on the front row and dressed from head-to-toe by the atelier. She's fascinated by fashion, and dreams of one day starting a label. "I'd love to win Grammys," she adds, "maybe some acting. Right now, I just want my album to be perfect. I hope everyone likes it as much as I do."Hair: Peter Beckett at Frank Agency using KiehlsMake-up: Annabel Callum using Diorskin ForeverProp stylist: Lucy SpinkPhotographer's assistants: Will Bunce, Ant ProtheroStylist's assistants: Emma Akbareian, Dominique MajorProp stylist's assistant: Andrew LavinThanks to: The White House at Location Works?This, of course, is enough to fill most of us with dread. And understandably so ? who in their right mind wants to look like an extra from Miami Vice or, depending on your fancy, The Golden Girls.In the world of high fashion though both Mugler and Versace gave us pastels galore, sometimes from head to toe. Be warned that great men, both fictional and real, have tried and failed when they've taken this route. Even F Scott Fitzgerald's sartorially elegant anti-hero Jay Gatsby failed to pull of a pastel pink suit, looking plain gaudy and faintly ridiculous when he wore it. In the real world steer clear of this type of folly. The simplest option is to invest in a good pair of pastel shorts or chinos, Ralph Lauren or J Crew. Roll them at the cuff and wear with grey socks.ShirtsFifties fashion doesn't have to begin and end on Madison Avenue ? a less buttoned-up way of dressing has been quietly bubbling away for a season or two now. And so it's the turn of the rebellious Teddy Boy to have his moment in the sun. Marni's high neck, loose-collared shirts are experiencing a renaissance of sorts. Tuck them into trousers or jeans and accessorise with a narrow leather belt. If you have the hair for it, meanwhile, finish the look by coiffing locks into an eye-catching pompadour. Use your combing skills to good effect: Elvis in his prime should be your yardstick. Too much height and you risk aping the wily mistress that the style was named after.WaterproofWaterproof jackets are perfectly designed for the UK, where even in summer there's always the potential for a downpour. Weather aside, this is also a textbook jacket for urban living. Rolled and folded, it takes up minimal space in your bag ? perhaps that's why British labels have always been such champions of this unassuming garment. From Folk to Margaret Howell, those who have reinvented the waterproof are impressive. Christopher Raeburn, winner of the Emerging Menswear Category at the British fashion awards, consolidates this long standing love affair with eye-popping reds and greens for spring.Red White & BlueThe nautical stripe is a tried and tested style for summer, usually in horizontal navy and white. However, this season at Dries Van Noten and Alexander McQueen, white and blue stripes, together with red, make for a refreshing take on this trend. Maybe it's Olympics fervour, or perhaps it's to do with our very own diamond Queen and her jubilee, but looking patriotic has never been so easy. Don't be too brazen though: stripes should be confined to the top half of the body only. Top to toe Union Jack colours will blend in with the bunting.ShoesShoes come in all shapes and styles for spring, with the ubiquitous deck shoe set to make a predictably seasonal appearance. Less obvious is the return of the brothel creeper. As with many a successful menswear staple, this style of shoe has its origins in the Second World War. Worn by soldiers stationed in North Africa, its thick sole was comfortable and hard-wearing, with its very sponginess ensuring silence underfoot when sneaking up on the enemy. In civilian life too this has proved useful. Legend has it that anyone wearing a pair of these shoes could move deftly from illegal drinking den to brothel, without as much as a squeak. By the 1950s the shoe was an indispensable part of the Teddy Boy look. But a pair from Burberry Prorsum are given a 1970s twist with the cork sole.NavajoNavajo-inspired patterns made a fairly large splash in menswear last summer and the ripple effect is very much in evidence. But it's the smaller details that have the most impact in your everyday wardrobe. A beaded rucksack is a well-considered nod.PrintsThose Teddy Boys weren't all about quiffed hair and brothel creepers. Back in their colourful Fifties heyday, prints ? especially Hawaiian ? were a weekend staple of the dapper man's wardrobe. And this season there's a feast of showy patterns and prints to choose from.It makes a welcome change from that most overused and ubiquitous of men's wardrobe staples, the lumberjack checked shirt. The floral print flourishes at Prada in particular, make this season a veritable hothouse of colour and pattern. Some of the best prints may also be found at Givenchy, where creative director Riccardo Tisci's beautiful bird of paradise prints dominated the catwalk. Eye-catching as they may be, these designs are only for the brave-hearted male, but Italian label Marni's monochromatic flower print T-shirts are a masterclass in more restrained yet dramatic blooms.?Details are starting to emerge about Chelsea Clinton's wedding day, with everything from dress designs to reception toasts to the vegan-friendly menu becoming public:?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Rumor has it (sorry, couldn't resist) that Adele was asked to be a face of Burberry — and that she responded by asking if the brand would be interested in collaborating on a collection for plus-size customers. Seems pretty reasonable to ask a company interested in making money off your face to make clothing for your body. Burberry, of which Adele has long been a self-professed fan, refused to comment on the allegation. [] Amazon's discount site MyHabit got hold of a couple — like literally two — of the Prabal Gurung dress that Kate Middleton wore last week in Singapore. The dresses, priced at $599 instead of the MSRP of $1995 because they were last season's stock, sold out within an hour. [] Whoa, whoa, whoa. Kim Kardashian got a kitten who looks a lot like Choupette Lagerfeld. Koincidence? Kardashian's kat's name is Mercy. [Insert own "Your kat she so thirsty" joke here.] [] Anna Wintour succeeded in convincing a few more celebrities and designers to contribute to her Runway to Win fundraising initiative — just one of the many projects that have made the Vogue editor the fourth-biggest Obama campaign fundraiser. Now available for sale are a trio of baby onesies from Beyonce and Tina Knowles, a makeup bag by Rachel Zoe, and a t-shirt from Sarah Jessica Parker. [] Jourdan Dunn nabbed her sixth cover of i-D. [] Goop is apparently a power referrer. When J. Crew and Gwyneth Paltrow partnered on eight outfits Paltrow photographed for her site the retailer suddenly found it was getting 8% of all its Web traffic for the day from Goop. []?Women in are being pressured to "whiten up" by advertisements that feature Caucasian models and promote skin lightening products. Clothing stores such as Prada, Burberry, and Zara use their American and European ads featuring white models in Asia, and according to Royce Yuen, chair of Hong Kong's Association of Accredited Advertising Agencies, it's not just so they can reuse the same ads. "I think it's a conscious effort that they are featuring Caucasian models," says Yuen, "it gives people the impression that they're more international and more premium." A survey found that 38 percent of women in Hong Kong, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines and Taiwan used skin-whitening chemicals and every major cosmetics company offers a whitening cream. Many of the creams contain hydroquinone, a pigment-altering agent that is linked to cancer and may cause liver and kidney damage. The chemical is banned in the U.K., but Virginia P'an, a business analyst and CEO of China Pacific Partners, still claims the ideal of lighter skin is "basically harmless." "A good part of Asia is still an agrarian society. Being whiter-skinned shows you aren't a laborer or a farm worker," she says. "These are cultural trends that are not going to shift overnight." []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Andrej Pejic has addressed the over his shirtless Dossier cover, which two U.S. bookstore chains required to be sealed in an opaque plastic cover. "I think the question really isn't the gender of the person on the cover, it's whether it's porn or it's art. And clearly, it's art, so art really should not be censored in a democratic society." The Australian male model says even the fact that plenty of other men get to be shirtless on magazine covers "is irrelevant. It's art, so I don't think it should be censored at all. It's not any sort of sexual image." [] David Gandy is the subject of a book compiled by Dolce & Gabbana. A Dolce & Gabbana book. About David Gandy. [] This Dior model looks a lot like PJ Harvey in 1995. [] Enterprising teen alert: A 16-year-old named Tara Houghton is selling red stickers for the soles of your shoes for $9.99 a pair. Let's see how long it takes for Christian Louboutin to cry havoc and let slip his legal team of war. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.? The thing is, how juicy can it possibly be? We're not talking Courtney Love-style antics with those two; it's probably like, strollers, diapers, sex, travel, diapers, diapers, sex, movie set, diapers, diapers diapers. (Sex!) []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Former In Style Accessories Director and lead ' blogger suspect Alice Kim is leaving In Style for Omaha, Nebraska, in a development that probably involves internationally-acclaimed "spiritual healer" and may also concern native Nebraskan and Korean-proclivitor Alexander Payne. (Yeah, that Alexander Payne! Guess we're all going to the wrong cocktail parties, huh?) If true, this sheds light on her mysterious decision, announced last month, to move to Nebraska to open a boutique targeting the white-hot Omaha fashionista population. Apparently the store is still happening, with some financial help from her parents — and also, so it happens, her co-workers! Late last week, an informer tells us, Alice held a little "cubicle sale" of all the free swag she raked in during her years "covering" the luxury leather goods industry. So here's an ethical question: how much of a markup do you charge the employees who suspect you of relentlessly anonymously trashing them on your bitchy fashion blog as you depart for a charmed new life with a Hollywood golden child? Answer: A lot! According to a source at In Style, the first item Alice sold was a Burberry bag for which she asked — and received! — $900. Why didn't she like all the other editors? When's she going to come out about her blog? Will Payne's ex-wife Sandra Oh play Alice in View From The Fourth Row, the critically-fellated indie film chock-full of self-absorbed, merlot-hating fashion world misanthropes? Developing! Earlier: ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Still not finished with the Christmas shopping? We're already 3 days into Hannukah! Before you light that fourth candle tonight, check out the random "gifts" Bloomingdale's has to offer: Burberry bags, ear muffs by Ugg and a $13,000 jacket. Let's go shopping, after the jump! Oh, dear. When is this ever appropriate? Fur with fur rosettes? My, my, my. (Natural chinchilla stole with black cashmere and chinchilla rosette trim, $6,500) So maybe they stole the padlock idea from YSL, but you've got to love that lock looking straight outta Home Depot; it's like a mix of common and posh, lowbrow and highbrow, working class and upper class. Or just, you know, shiny. (Furla satchel, $515) Eh, not sure. The gray is nice, but top to bottom it's kind of like, fug, fugger and fuggest, especially at these prices. (Burberry "Shimmer Check" collection in cotton/Lurex with leather trim: key pouch, $95; mini doctor's bag, $295; tote, $395) Oh, hey. Yeah, that's my ! Yawn, I see him like this all the time. (W Hotel robe, $125) Yes to the tote bag and the ice cream maker; no to the ear muffs; ixnay on the Uicy-jay. (Harajuku Lovers tote, $68; Cuisinart soft serve ice cream maker, $99; Ugg ear muffs, $75; Juicy Couture gloves, $55) Can even the most cynical among you admit that the Vera Wang Princess bottle is really kind of adorable? (Vera Wang Truly Pink, $87; Vera Wang Princess, $68; Vera Wang Eau de Parfum, $87) New fashion trend: Florence Nightingale chic! (Ellen Tracy capelet sweater, $328; turtleneck, $298) Dudes, a note: Chances are a $95 T-shirt, massage oil or cartoon-y messenger bag is is not what she wants. The bag is cute, though. (Tory Burch tees, $95; Agent Provocateur Menage a Trois massage oil, $60; Tokidoki for LeSportSac bag, $160) Juicy is such a fucking rip off. How do they get away with it? And it's one thing for Kim Kardashian to rock it, but when innocent children get involved, someone needs to step up and step in. (Juicy Girl hoodie, $110; pants, $92; long-sleeve tee, $62) This woman appears to be constructed from a single tongue depressor. (Calvin Klein bra, $26; yoga pants, $49; robe, $75) My boyfriend looked better in the catalog. (Spanish shearling jacket, $1,495) Hey, black model! And hey, expensive jacket! (Lamb bolero with dyed fox trimmed sleeves, $13,000) These Betsey Johnson pieces are delightfully tacky. (Necklace, $50; bracelet, $45) "?Donde estan mis pantalones?" (Free people hat, $58; scarf, $48; "snowed in" henley, $98; pompom socks, $28) Earlier: ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.? Designer clothes aren't just for super rich adults anymore. Kids are getting in on the action at an alarming rate, with Gucci Kids being the most recent line created to cater to the world's increasingly vocal and visible mass of Veruca Salts (other fashion houses with children's lines include , Burberry and Lanvin). Now, however, some parents are worried about the values they instill by purchasing their children such luxurious items. A simple solution to an expensive problem? Don't buy your kids that shit and donate the money to children who need basic clothing. There, problem solved.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Christopher Bailey's Burberry Prorsum show was live-streamed, celeb-packed, and big. And, yes, there were plenty of classic Burberry coats. With an emphasis on "classic." (And fur hats)?Burberry designer Christopher Bailey — a working-class Yorkshire lad — is . Bailey is notable not only for overseeing a house that was until recently considered moribund, but for being unusually nice. Collins is ready with examples: "Do you want me to hold something?" he will inquire. "Are you cold?" "Would you like a biscuit?" Adrian Hallewell, a chauffeur in Yorkshire, who has known Bailey since he was a boy, told me, "He keeps a low profile, does he, Christopher." It's interesting that Burberry chose Bailey — whose father was a carpenter, and whose mother worked as a window-dresser at Marks & Spencer — as its new creative director in 2001, at a time when the venerable English house was trying, artfully and carefully, to distance itself from the appropriation of its brand by a distinctly lower-class kind of customer. In order to revive Burberry from a beside-the-point position as a legacy brand, then-C.E.O. Rose Marie Bravo made Burberry and its distinctive beige-and-red check ubiquitous — but the paradox of an upscale-but-instantly-recognizable brand is that if it becomes too popular, or suffers from the wrong kind of exposure, the hard-won "upscale" image can evaporate. (Louis Vuitton waged a long-term fight to win back its identification with exclusivity by ending department store sales in favor of only own-store retail in the 1980s, but some would argue that the company's famous monogram — or imitations of it — metastasized to a brand-harming extent during the recent economic boom.) In England, Burberry had gone from outfitting royalty, military top brass, and explorers to being worn by reality television personalities and second-rate soap opera stars making their first public appearances following septum-repair surgeries. (That would be Danniella Westbrook, of EastEnders, pictured above in 2002 with her daughter.) It used to count Roald Amundsen, Robert Scott, and Sir Ernest Shackleton as customers; by 2002, it had Jade Goody and a contingent of xenophobic soccer hooligans who were particularly fond of a $90 plaid hat. Burberry stopped making the hat. It also began to devote much of its energies to policing its brand — no more pet products "in the famous Burberry design," or "Chavalier" Vauxhall Chevaliers with customized Burberry paint jobs. (Incidentally, virtually every tacky-Burberry example Collins offers up, including the "Chavalier," Westbrook, and a photo of a woman with Burberry-check acrylic nails, was highlighted in .) After new C.E.O. Angela Ahrendts took over in 2006, she discontinued many licenses and product lines she felt did not represent that brand well, or distracted from its core luxury image: "Burberry used to do little bottles of whiskey," said Bailey, "We're not experts on whiskey, so why the hell would we do whiskey?" Burberry Prorsum, the high-end line founded under Bravo's watch, is now the company's moody torch-bearer. But Bailey, who is understandably sensitive to any accusation of classism in the company's repositioning, especially in the class-fraught British context, is hesitant to cast the change in terms of sidelining "undesirable" customers. "I think that probably a lot of it was counterfeit," says Bailey, of the various Burberry-ish clothing items the paparazzi snapped in the early 2000s. In fact, the designer counts spotting one of his authentic designs in "a kind of skanky pub" as a highlight of his career, so far: Few things please Bailey more than encountering his work in the nooks and crannies of the British experience — a trenchcoat draped over a Westminster politician's arm, lining out; a checked scarf, worn as a hijab, in the immigration queue at Gatwick. A small triumph of his career was spotting a checked purse that he had designed tucked under a table at a bar in Yorkshire. "It was this kind of skanky pub, and all of a sudden I was like, 'It's actually amazing that this little baby thing that I work on with my gang goes out into the world and then finds its way back to my home town,' " he said. "You want to know the story behind it." Before coming to Burberry, Bailey worked at Donna Karan, and for another great recent fashion revival case, Gucci under Tom Ford. Although he didn't take much from Ford's aesthetic, Bailey undoubtedly experienced an object lesson in how to design a venerable house away from the brink of irrelevancy. Like almost every luxury company known to man, Burberry is facing hard times right now because of the economic crisis; since last fall, the company has , and still saw a 2008 loss of $8 million. (Perhaps partly because, as Collins notes, the company moved into expensive new purpose-built headquarters in London last November.) Nonetheless, Burberry has fared well enough since listing on the London Stock Exchange in 2004. Today, the company . With the — it's clear that there are plenty of others seeking to meet the same challenges Burberry faced so recently. [New Yorker] [Vogue UK] [FT] [Finally Woken]?More London Fashion week! Today the Burberry show was a quiet riot of luxe jewel tones, shiny, body-hugging frocks and trenches, as well as dresses in not-so-innocent lace. Even though there were vivid beetle shell hues and candy wrapper foil shirts, everything seemed really elegant and refined. But: There were some pants-less ensembles. Some of the ladies left home without trousers. No, no, sure, sure: Styling for the show. Or maybe those outfits were designed for sitting in hot springs in the snow? Whatever. Aaron Paul, Dita Von Teese, Harry from Wand Erection and Dev Patel seemed confused.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Getting a licensed replica of the Carolina Herrera wedding dress Kristen Stewart wore to marry her sparkly, fanged, 110-year-old boyfriend in the new Twilight movie to market in time to coincide with the film's release was apparently a big struggle. Only four people knew that the dress in production was the dress; it was shipped to Alfred Angelo stores in secret, and the studio jokes that the bridal retailer had to sign an NDA "in blood." The final can be yours for just $799. That's roughly half of the David's Bridal licensed copy of Kim Kardashian's wedding dress! Only Twilight's fictional wedding hasn't yet ended in divorce. [] In other news of world-famous white dresses, Alexander McQueen made a version of Pippa Middleton's bridesmaid dress available for $1,800 at Net-A-Porter; it is, naturally, already sold out. [] Scarlett Johanson is on the cover of Interview. [] Dita Von Teese is launching a lingerie collection at Target in Australia called "Von Follies by Dita Von Teese." [] And Daphne Guinness has a holiday collection with M.A.C. The heiress says she's loved makeup since she was a child. But back then, instead of using makeup, "I would use watercolours or acrylics or anything I could get my hands on. Sometimes I would paint pictures on my face, on my eyelids or whatnot." [] H&M knocked off a year-old Carven jacket. [] The time when a model starts getting cast as the "mom" — in this case, to Eloise, the 5-year-old daughter of Vogue editor Meredith Melling Burke — is an interesting point of inflection in any girl's career. Twenty-four-year-old Caroline Trentini doesn't seem altogether thrilled to have reached it. Another weird industry rubicon? Model's First Bridal Shoot, although that generally happens around age 15-16 (see top photo). [] Dutch new face Anne Verhallen says the last-minute nature of the business has been the hardest adjustment. "You get confirmed for a job an hour before you have to fly there. I always think, They spend so much time and energy and money on these shoots and these jobs, wouldn't you want to know what girl you have to work with like at least a week before?" []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Hey guys! It's Friday. I'm jet-lagged. I smoked pot last night. I took no speed today. That last part was pure self-sabotage. Anyhow, this combination of conditions led me somehow to a photo spread in the new Vogue, which mysteriously appeared in my bag this morning along with a half-consumed Snapple and what looked like a garlic knot. It's Agyness Deyn and the new cast of because really, has there ever been a more inspired pairing of model to social and cultural context? My thoughts: 1. Some decades are better than others and the sixties > the eighties, which sort of casts a negative light on Agyness's whole, like, "identity," not that she needs help because 2. Agyness Deyn has no discernible facial expressions. Technically I think she's actually a better than model, not that I know shit, and 3. As much as I am not one for tassels or beaded fringe or flowers or really, accessories of any sort, it is exceptionally annoying that the one in the $1800 Burberry shiftdress is allegedly the "minimalist." Some highlights from the shoot, after the jump. ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Vivienne Westwood, who launched her red Label Collection last night during London Fashion Week, is really disappointed with fashion right now: Everybody looks like clones and the only people you notice are my age. I don't notice anybody unless they look great, and every now and again they do, and they are usually 70. We are so conformist, nobody is thinking. We are all sucking up stuff, we have been trained to be consumers and we are all consuming far too much… In history people dressed much better than we do today. If you saw Queen Elizabeth it would be amazing, she came from another planet. She was so attractive in what she was wearing. People have never looked so ugly as they do today regarding their dress. Damn, dame, tell us how you really feel. [, ] Kate Middleton wore a brown $257 Orla Kiely dress at a charity event this morning and it has already sold out. Copycats! Listen to Auntie Vivienne and try something new. [] Oh, btw, Orla Kiely x Uniqlo collabo. [] Lana Del Rey sang at Mulberry's London Fahsion Week dinner last night. As you may have heard, Mulberry named a bag for the chanteuse. [, ] Michelle Williams and two ladies from Downton Abbey — Edith and Mary — were in the front row at the Mulberry Fall 2012 show. [] The Burberry Prorsum show had a "whiff of Edwardian tweedy country elegance," according to Hamish Bowles. "Call it the Downton Abbey effect." [] Also? The Burberry show had fake rain. [] Kate Walsh, 44, is naked and slamming hot on the March cover of Shape. It was her idea to wear her birthday suit, she says: "I'm enjoying my 40s and wanted to share that." Is it a midlife crisis? "I do drive a Porsche, so maybe it is." []?Demi Moore is returning as the face of Ann Taylor for the holiday season. Her forthcoming ads were shot by Norman Jean Roy, and although they show the actress in a snowy forest, they were created at a Los Angeles photo studio. Moore had no comment about her marriage to Ashton Kutcher, which is obviously all the tabloid and fashion press cares about in regards to her right now, but did issue some boilerplate about Roy's "creative vision." [] Here are some more ads for Versace's H&M collaboration. [] Photos of Giambattista Valli's one-off collection for Macy's have hit the Internet; there are lots of pieces that use Valli signatures, like pink, and leopard print. Having seen the line in person last night, we can report that the fabrics are not too shabby, either; this trapeze line black dress with the ruffled hem particularly stood out. [, ] At last: video of Hamish Bowles auditioning for X Factor in disguise. []?As our economy slowly emerges from its torpor, affluent citizens are starting to become less abashed about spending exorbitant sums of money on anything from diamond-studded rollerblades, to cows fed with gold-plated blades of grass, to designer outfits for their toddlers. Marquee fashion designers like Oscar de la Renta and Gucci are turning their attention to the affluent toddler demographic, which is really just a way of saying that designers are targeting parents who want to dress their children up like little American Girl dolls and send them out into the world, exclaiming, "It's my very own miniature status symbol!" According to CBS News, for luxury children's clothes still make up only a fraction (about 3 percent) of the $34 billion fashion industry, though that fraction is growing as economic conditions improve and the more affluent come out of their caves, sniffing around for places to spend lots of money. The research firm NPD Group reports that children's wear sales rose a total of 4 percent between May 2011 and May 2012, with the upscale children's clothing component rising nearly 7 percent. All of this, meanwhile, is happening amidst a 3 percent rise in the overall clothing market. Designers are mostly targeting households with a total income of $350,000 or higher, appealing to parents who want their young children, in lieu of practicing math, perhaps, to sharpen their fashion sense because a kid falls behind real fast in the asshole arms race if he or she doesn't know at least twenty major designers by puberty. New York-based fashion consultant Robert Burke explains the trend in terms of the "mini-me phenomenon," adding that, for parents splurging on expensive clothes for themselves, "It [buying something for their kids] feels good. It's like one for me and one for you." That kind of consumer palliative, however, can get to be pretty expensive, with boys shirts from Dolce & Gabbana running in the $190 range, and girls dresses starting at about $500. Stifle your gasps — I mean, you don't want your kid to look like some kind of poor, do you? Shuffling around the Upper East Side of Manhattan in a, gulp, J. Crew ensemble, smelling vaguely of syrup. And not maple syrup either, but corn syrup, like that Log Cabin of lies. Disgusting. Anyway, parents spending serious coin on their kids' wardrobes (one New York mother planned on spending in excess of $10,000 on her 3-year-old daughter's fall wardrobe), don't care if their kids grow out of clothes in like three days or if they're instilling some nefarious streak of superficiality that will blossom (fester) in their kids until they're 22 and decide to rebel by doing Americorps for like, a month — these parents just want their kids to look good and receive positive reinforcement about looking good. "I really believe," says one fashion-forward mother about her 3-year-old's self-esteem, "when she dresses like this, she feels better about herself." That's probably true, considering that every time the 3-year-old girl gets stuffed into a Burberry jacket, her mother beams at her and says something she doesn't even realize is screwing with her daughter's value system, something like, "Mommy loves you when you dress pretty." Sad face. [CBS News]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Dior insists that studio head Bill Gaytten, who oversaw that of a fall couture collection, is just a place-holder designer. The brand will "take all its time" to replace John Galliano, the longtime creative director it fired in March for habitual drunkenness/being an embarrassing racist. "You know when you ask young girls all the time when they are going to get married, they reply: When I find the right man," said C.E.O. Sidney Toledano. [] Balenciaga shot its fall campaign in "a church in Harlem" — anyone know which one? — and a studio made to look like a tiled bathroom. Models Julia Nobis and Liisa Winkler star, and Steven Meisel was the photographer. [] Here's Emma Watson's British Harper's Bazaar covers, newsstand and subscriber edition, side-by-side. [] Vogue asked designers to tell them which women embodied classic, American style: responses included Gisele Bundchen (who is "American" in the...larger sense, we guess), Cate Blanchett (who is, um, Australian), Willow Smith, and the eternal safe option, Michelle Obama. [] Gisele Bundchen is on the cover of the new Vogue Brazil. As Made in Brazil points out, the model is depicted "completely out of focus and with bad hair." [] The stars of Downton Abbey appear in a spread in the new British Vogue. [] Lindsay Lohan posed for Italian Vanity Fair. Wait, is that Pedo Bear? [] Fashion blogger BryanBoy is thrilled to have made Star magazine's worst-dressed list. [@] BryanBoy was photographed while attending Prada's men's wear show — which has been widely praised, despite featuring a weird mixture of ugly 70s-inspired floral prints, polo collars, Boy Scout scarves, and tweed. But Fantastic Man editor-in-chief Gert Jonkers says he thinks the collection is for "fashion victims...There were lots of things that were very puzzling." []?According to the latest version of the / wedding dress rumors, the princess-to-be consulted with British Vogue editor before Saying Yes To A Dress. Shulman told her to pick McQueen. The Telegraph reports that "a Vogue spokesman refused to comment, but sources admitted that private conversations with Buckingham Palace had taken place." This news has already "prompted bookmakers to cut the odds on a McQueen wedding dress from 14-1 to 1-20." [] Meanwhile, Middleton wore another British label — a $1,000 Burberry trench coat — to an event in Northern Ireland. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 23: George Craig, Rob Pryor, Roo Panes and Michelle Dockery attend the Burberry Prorsum show as part of Milan Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2013 on June 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Black Book interviews 's about Peggy and Don's relationship, her love of large-chain clothing stores, and what it was like working with Sarah Jessica Parker.Because it's impossible to go a single day without contributing to the Mad Men Frenzy, here are some quotes from a new in the new Black Book. There are no big huge revelations, but I like how you can almost hear her speaking in her careful, measured way. As usual, she sounds very smart and very down-to-earth. I just wish they had asked her about her relationship with the Church Of Scientology, because I think a lot of fans are curious about that aspect. On and not having (yet) done it: "On any other, lesser show, you would have had that happen on the first season, but with us, it's touched upon in the very first episode-and then completely buried in favor of a far more interesting sort of friendship, more protegee-type relationship." On AMC being unlike any other network (that I've heard of, at least): "We know everyone at the network; we're actually friends, and we've seen them and hung out with them and been with them from the beginning, so it feels like it's a much more familial relationship." On what she wears in real life. It's almost anarchic!: "I'm a huge proponent of Urban Outfitters-I adore them and adore their website and consider it my personal closet much to the detriment of my checking account. I don't have a lot of time to go shopping honestly, and when I do, I'm not a huge designer girl. I'm very like I like the Gap and J. Crew and Urban Outfitters." On her movie with Sarah Jessica Parker: "I've done two films this year. One's Did You Hear About the Morgans?- it's a romantic comedy, I play Sarah Jessica Parker's assistant. It really fun to do that kind of comedy, which I've never really done-very light, snappy, you feel like you're in an old 40s movie. I'm a huge fan of Sarah Jessica Parker's, so that was a dream come true to work with her. " On working with the Apatow gang on Get Him To The Greek: "Mad Men is so minimal, and nobody ever really says anything-you have five lines, and it's all very quiet. Then you go to doing 10-minute takes of something that's so comedic where everybody's improv-ing and coming up with ideas ... it was so black and white." And the part that bugged me!: Black Book: "Before season two of Mad Men started last year, I was talking to costume designer Janine Bryant; at the time, she described Peggy's look as a "schoolgirl in the office" who is "buttoned up" due to her conservative nature. One of the questions I asked her about each character in turn was what she thought a contemporary version of that character would wear. What she said for Peggy Olson was "Marc Jacobs ... Maybe a little bit of Burberry." Elisabeth Moss: "Oh, that's very good." Black Book: "What else would the Peggies of 2009 wear?" Elisabeth Moss: "I could not possibly improve on that. Maybe a little bit of Calvin Klein mixed in ... just the sort of simplicity and professionalism of it, but that's wonderfully put. In fact, there's a dress that I wore this season that seriously could be Marc Jacobs. You could sell it off of the rack." Ugh to that part. First off: Peggy Olson is in no way known for her sense of style in the world of the show (remember that totally ridiculous gay guy makeover scene?), and since the show took place before irony, she couldn't have been doing that trying-to-look-frumpy-on-purpose Marc Jacobs thing. It's just a really circular argument. Marc Jacobs is inspired by dowdy ladies from the 60's, not the other way around! But it's not like she could disagree with the show's costume designer. Anyway, I love that Elisabeth Moss, the famous movie star, shops at The Gap and Urban Outfitters and J. Crew, and I actually believe in this case it's not a sneaky celebrity trick to sound relatable.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Now that she's done playing the bushy-haired Hermione Granger and has been as the face of Burberry, Emma Watson's finally free to do what she wants with her locks. She her new 'do on her .?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Harry Potter star is not your average 19-year-old. She's friends with Karl Lagerfeld, calls Chanel her "lucky brand," and has modeled for Burberry. And in this issue of , she wears high-fashion in front of a castle. Writer Lauren Waterman notes that Watson wears "impossibly high heels, wild patterned leggings, and a poufy mini, with her hair piled precariously atop her head and fastened with brightly colored netting." (Why make it seem so weird? These were your magazine's choices!) But the actress tries to insist that she's down to earth, saying: "I live, really, in jeans from Topshop, blazers from Ralph Lauren or Reiss, and ballet flats." Yet, this is a magazine, and so Watson is made up, coiffed and dressed in elaborate clothes, for a decidedly atypical 19-year-old look. Still, she longs to do what those her age do: She plans on attending college to study English Literature and art. Watson won't say where — rumor has it Brown or Yale — because she is hounded by paparazzi in the UK. And she wants to live with a roommate in the freshman dorms. She explains: "I probably sound like a paranoid nut, but I'm doing this because I want to be normal. I really want anonymity. I want to do it properly, like everyone else. As long as I don't walk in and see, like, Harry Potter posters everywhere, I'll be fine." But let's be honest: When she says she wants to be "normal," what exactly does she mean? Life without decadent photo shoots? Or just without the unwanted attention from fans and paparazzi? [Teen Vogue] Related: , ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Fashion week began today in New York. But if you're not one of those sprites who lives for capital-F Fashion, you may be wondering, What is the point of this thing and why is everyone there dressed like that?How many fashion weeks are there? How many blindstitches are there on a hand-rolled hem? Wikipedia 138 worldwide fashion weeks, which means that you could spend over two and a half years of your life doing nothing but lining up outside venues from Belgrade to Brisbane and from Rio de Janeiro to Riga, and still have only barely completed a circuit. It is always fashion week somewhere. But like anything in fashion, there's a hierarchy. "Fashion Week" basically refers to one four-week circuit: New York fashion week kicks things off, then comes London fashion week, then Milan fashion week, and then Paris fashion week. These are the fashion weeks where designers including Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Dior, Burberry, Valentino, and any other purveyor of $3k dresses whose perfume or wallet or lipstick us regular folks might one day be moved through successful branding to buy, unveil their new seasonal collections. These are the fashion weeks that the people who knock off Calvin Klein et. al. pay attention to. And these are the fashion weeks that editors for the largest fashion magazines and buyers for the biggest stores attend. While there are other fashion weeks around the world that are gaining prominence — Sydney's, Sao Paulo's — the fashion weeks that aren't the Big Four are basically considered regional affairs at worst, and potential feeder sources for raw design talent at best. Why does fashion week happen? Because rich men like to make money. So which season is it in fashion right now? Fashion is six months out of step with the earth's calendar seasons, so what's about to be shown in New York, London, Milan and Paris is for spring/summer, 2011. Fall/winter collections are shown in February and March. (In-between seasons, known as "Resort" for clothes that hit stores in mid-winter and "Pre-fall" for mid-summer, respectively, tend to be presented in smaller shows spread across the major four fashion cities on a less centralized schedule.) The fashion calendar is kooky for a lot of reasons — deliveries of winter coats at Saks in August, anyone? — but with the explosion of media interest in fashion week in recent years and the widespread look-by-look documentation of each new collection, one of the most important of those reasons is that knock-offs of the new collections can hit stores before the originals do. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to check out a Style.com slideshow and e-mail close-up shots of a bag to China — and China can have (a lightly tweaked, pleather version of) that bag in the window at H&M in eight weeks. Who puts on fashion week? The main collections in New York are shown at a corporate-sponsored event known as Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, which is managed by the entertainment conglomerate IMG. IMG runs many smaller fashion weeks around the world, in fact. There are New York shows that take place that are unaffiliated with IMG, however — labels including Vena Cava and Erin Fetherston are showing this season at a sort of upstart event called MAC at Milk (so named because it's sponsored by MAC cosmetics and takes place at a photo studio called Milk Studios), which directly competes with IMG's fashion week. What designers get to participate? Any designer can organize an off-schedule show without seeking the imprimatur of either MAC or IMG. Designers showing off-site and off-schedule of course pay for (or seek corporate sponsorship to cover) their own venue costs and the costs of hair and makeup, casting, lighting, sound design, set, crowd control, and all other aspects of production. IMG, which centralizes certain expenses, like security, charges designers many tens of thousands of dollars to mount a show at one of its venue spaces in Lincoln Center. Showing at MAC at Milk's venue is free for designers — but you to present your collection there. How many shows are there? This season in New York, there are 264 shows taking place from September 9-16. (Obviously, a lot of them are crap.) Who attends fashion shows? Fashion shows are not open to the public, and fashion week is not a public event. Designers, via their PR agencies, tend to invite members of the media, buyers who work for major boutiques and department stores around the world, and friends of the designer. Also: their closest celebrity buddies. Whom they pay to show up. Seating at the venues is assigned in direct correlation to a guest's position in the industry's recondite and constantly shifting pecking order. (I keep it real from Standing Room Only.) The art of putting together a front row is said to be extremely complex, at least according to this that gets published season. Can you sneak in? Absolutely! At the old tents in Bryant Park, once you had done time in line and your guesthood at a given show had been confirmed, and you were allowed past the main security cordon, it was possible for a careful guest who looked the part to show-hop for the whole rest of the day, like a bored teenager at a multiplex. MAC at Milk, where the venue building is shared with many other businesses with foot traffic of their own, has sometimes been an even softer touch for entry. If you have a friend who goes to shows, there's also the old trick where she RSVPs and gets on the guest list, thereby assuring her own admission, and then gives you her paper invitation, which you produce at the front of the line when, mystifyingly, your name is somehow not listed. (Generally this is good for a grunt and a "Standing, please." PR people aren't dumb.) Some shows are harder to sneak into than others, obviously, and — like blagging your way into a night club — it takes patience and an ear for certain of fashion's shibboleths. Also like at a night club, never, ever argue with the door. This season, many fashion shows have moved to an e-ticketing system that might diminish the time-honored practice of sneaking in. Kind of a shame, really. What's it like at a show? Time-consuming and disorganized (sometimes charmingly, sometimes less so): you might wait two hours in various "lines" that are actually like stanchioned holding pens before being admitted to the venue, and then there's the Hobbesian scramble for a good view and the inevitable wait for the show to actually begin. The music tends to be extremely loud, as are the photographers in the media riser at the end of the runway. They function kind of like a highly vocal collective conscience. Photographers will yell things at the arriving celebrities (and will freely boo them if their late arrival is holding up the show), they will yell at the front-row guests to uncross their legs (crossed legs create shadows on the runway, which ruin shots), they will raise their voices above the booming of the runway soundtrack to yell at the models ("Give us a smile!"). Once, at a Jill Stuart show, the music stopped about three looks in, and the photographers, as one, started singing. (Not particularly tunefully, but still.) Twelve-to-fifteen minutes later, it's all over, and everyone heads for the exits, creating more bottlenecks and opportunities for patience. Then it's time to sneak into the next show, or hit an open bar and consume some sponsored liquor drink the color of nuclear waste. How do people decide what to wear to shows? Is it good etiquette to wear the designer of the show you're going to? Are there other rules? I am personally of the opinion that wearing a designer's clothes to that label's show is a little like wearing a band t-shirt to a concert — lame and fanboy-ish. But then I don't own anything that would really qualify. At the tents, the madding crowd includes editors wearing head-to-toe runway looks (Oh hi, Anna Dello Russo!) and people in the most insane get-ups imaginable. Like a gold unitard with DIY-Gaga glasses and furry gold moon boots. (On a dude.) This luckily means regular mortals can wear whatever the hell they want. Someone will always have on something far weirder. How many shows does each model walk in? A model who is doing about average — which is to say, a model who has already risen head-and-shoulders above the thousands of 5'10" teenagers who put themselves through the castings mill and launched herself into the peripheral notice of at least one or two casting directors — will walk in about 6-10 shows. A model who's doing quite well might do 10-15, a model considered extremely successful will walk in 15-20. The vast majority of models are not paid for working the shows; they work for the possibility of catching a front row editor's eye, and for "trade," free clothes from the designer, to be delivered at some later date. I believe the current record for most shows walked in a single New York fashion week is held by one Karlie Kloss, who strutted in some 31 shows and presentations during the fall/winter 2008 season. She was then 15 years old. How can you experience fashion week as a layperson? This season, more designers than ever before are broadcasting their shows live online to whichever fashion obsessives want to watch them. Jezebel is not invited to Proenza Schouler or Marc Jacobs, but I'll be watching both at and respectively. Style.com is actually broadcasting 15 fashion shows, including 3.1 Phillip Lim. is simulcasting nearly 40 of the New York shows, including virtually all of those taking place at Milk Studios — which are generally the "cooler" shows by smaller labels. If you register at (it's free!) you can watch another 30 shows, including Calvin Klein's and Oscar de la Renta's. In the past, there have been technical kinks with live webcasts of fashion shows — server crashes and traffic overloads. Your mileage may very. For slightly, barely less-than-live coverage, of course, there's . Sadie, Tracie, Dodai and I will be covering the New York shows and all attendant activities to the very best of our abilities. Expect plenty of slideshows and reviews, translations of the critics' prose, fashion news and analysis, notice taken of the presence or absence of non-white models, Twitpics, unsubstantiated scuttlebutt, behind-the-scenes interviews, and insightful video clips. It's going to be exciting. Perhaps occasionally harrowing. (I'm counting on my liver's eventual forgiveness.) Like, seriously, why does this matter? Not everyone's into fashion — and not everyone has to be — and some of the arguments for the runway's influence over what we actually wear are becoming, in this age of globalization and street style and the Internet, a little tenuous. Fashion — if indeed it ever was — is no longer the strict top-down system under which designers irrigate the garden of imitators with their precious original ideas; these days, many trends filter up (jeggings) as well as filter down (clogs). But all of us, generally speaking, wear clothes, and some of the stories of the runway's loss of primacy in the age of open-source everything are a little too neat, a little oversold. For a lot of people, looking at new ways of making dresses is enjoyable. And these shows still hold a huge amount of influence over how we dress. The runway is still where editors at influential magazines start noting which looks and garments they will give space to in their forthcoming issues. The runway is where bloggers look to identify key trends and colors for the coming season, and it is where new textiles are first seen. (A lot of textile design techniques that have come to be widely adopted, like digital printing, were first seen on the runway, because designers are more willing to support innovative, small-scale fashion R&D than mass retailers who are forced to be more cautious.) The runway is where editors, and the stylists who work on the shows, are exposed to new models and begin to consider those models for editorials and even brand campaigns. (Which is part of the reason why it's a problem when the runways are almost exclusively white.) The runway is the crucible in which the beauty standard is first forged.?I've been speaking out over the past few days about the looks coming down the runway, but what do the so-called, ahem, "legitimate" fashion critics have to say about Prada, Jil Sander, Giorgio Armani, Burberry, and Bottega Veneta? Eh, some things nice. Some things not so nice. Below, the fashion critics speak. Prada: "Deeply erotic" "some will probably declare it not their Prada cup of tea." "The colors too drab," "too sexually ambiguous." "we are struck less by her references than by her complex view of women and women's lives." - Cathy Horyn, NY Times "Fairies? At Prada?" "so sweetly unchallenging you (almost) can't recognize her" "literal connections between past and present were contradicted" "this is a woman who never loses the plot." -Style.com "[W]eird and wonderful" "mythical" "eerily beautiful." "Full of surprises" "light and pretty fairy dresses" "took fashion on its mystery tour." "some of the loveliest summer dresses... that we have yet seen in Milan."-Suzy Menkes, IHT Jil Sander: "Gumby-like silhouette" "supersaturated color" "ingeniously simple dresses" "light and airy" "starched or glazed" "some...so dense they looked frozen"-Cathy Horyn, NY Times "putting the credibility back into Jil Sander" "there are difficulties" "The crop of the jacket might work on a flat-chested beanpole model, but on a woman with a real-life bosom?" "super-skinny pants are not the most forgiving" "hot pink, orange, and vivid royal blue seems unlikely to hit the spot" -Style.com "[B]reaking the mode" "beautifully shocking" "vivid colors" "poetic" "in an abstract way, brilliant" "Can I handle a sheer cover-up on the subway?...Do my nipples look good in this?"-Suzy Menkes, IHT Burberry: "[L]ean and aggressive" "slim skirts" "Chrome Hearts" "But is it fashion or just branded merchandise?" "What you don't find in this collection, really, is Mr. Bailey's distinctive voice. Instead you hear all the competing gimme demands: more luxury, more stuff on stuff." -Cathy Horyn, NY Times "[L]uxury warrior" "the sexiest version of Burberry yet" "an accurate riff on nineties body-con dressing" "stirrings of the heavy-metal revival" "play[s] it to an international audience"-Style.com "[S]ense of cool young London..had gone from the collection" "has rightly moved a long way from those checks" "skimpy ruched dresses were ultra glamorous" "But something was lost" "Bailey needs to migrate to his homebase" -Suzy Menkes, IHT Giorgio Armani: "You've got to admire Giorgio Armani" "small jackets with silk pirate pants" "a tank dress with legs." "For him, this is fashion. And because he is Giorgio Armani, with brand power, they will find an audience."-Cathy Horyn, NY Times "[D]idn't pack quite the knockout punch" "some lovely clothes" "unusual pants" "endless variety of covetable tops" "I Dream of Jeannie evening jumpsuits" "less formal, but no less special" -Style.com "It's hard to believe that [what was] sent down his runway...had been created with the conviction that it might alter the way women think about their wardrobe" "simply too absurd" "strangely awkward shorts" "seems to have confused the source of pleasure"-Robin Givhan, Washington Post "[H]eavy on the bloomers and sarong-tie pants" "handkerchief hems... floated on too long" "quintessentially Armani" "his most loyal clients...might even learn to love." "a particularly gentle and elegant version of the tropical isle theme"-Suzy Menkes, IHT Bottega Veneta: "[T]oo prosperous a brand for its designer" "plays it safe" " classic summer dresses" "more in the world than the worldliest people"- Cathy Horyn, NY Times "[E]xemplary illustration of...restrained, minimalist, functionalist design" "relevant" "delicious" "virtually colorless" "doesn't take a Ph.D. to analyze" "goddess draping" "you'd need a heart of stone not to think, There goes something gorgeous." -Style.com "[I]f women wanted their wardrobe to go unnoticed, they would...go to Banana Republic" "At Bottega Veneta...a woman...should get...more from her clothes" -Robin Givhan, Washington Post?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Teen blogger Tavi Gevinson spoke this morning to a packed room of industry professionals, reporters, and marketers about the "unpredictability" of Generation Y. They wanted to know how the generation's personal qualities would make young people liable to buy things.Gevinson, the 14-year-old , , , , , and the blogger behind the site , was addressing a conference convened by NYU professor of business Scott Galloway. Under the microscope was Generation Y, the Millennials — a generation of which I am a member, albeit one elderly enough to hear the ring of a really bad Spice Girls song (and a worse Pepsi slogan) in Galloway's event title, "Generation Next Forum: Insight Into Tomorrow's Affluent Consumer." The lineup consisted of a mix of old-media figures, Internet entrepreneurs, , a guy from the U.S. State Department who led the 'Text Haiti to 90999' project, America's youngest congressional candidate, a woman who gave a gripping, totally pro-sex 9-minute talk about porn culture, and a bunch of people who wanted to sell us stuff. Words like "investment," "communication," "creativity," and "transparency" were thrown around as if they had some kind of timeless meaning. Like all business seminars, a great deal of it seemed truistic and over-determined rather than insightful. Consumers like "value." They like "quality." They like products that make them feel "cool," and they like products that signify "cool" status to peers. A 19-year-old who does not use the library to write papers said, "Today, the Internet means that information is literally at our fingertips." Teen Vogue's publisher talked rapturously of her magazine's iPhone app, with its built-in e-commerce platforms, and said, "The future is here and now and we are making it happen all around us!" A man claimed, "Nobody says, 'I got it on sale' anymore. They say, 'I got this on deal.' That's the language Gen Y is using." Someone put up a slide that said, "Blogs, blogs, blogs. Nobody really cares about objectivity anymore." The editor of ReadyMade, one of the event's many praisers of "authenticity," played a clip of Bad Brains — "which unfortunately isn't there anymore." Actually, it is. It's just a John Varvatos store now. Tavi Gevinson got up to speak in a black high-necked dress over a Proenza Schouler tie-dyed t-shirt, brown vintage shoes, mint lace-edged socks — and a yellow Miu Miu collar, of which she said, "I can't wear it to school so I wear it whenever else I can, because it has naked people on it." Her PowerPoint slides had stills from Daria and the Mean Girls cafeteria map, the latter captioned, "Where do you fit in, Lindsay Lohan's character? HMMM?" Gevinson praised certain brands who she said manage their online identities well — Burberry, Prada, and Alexander McQueen, going back to 2002. Her take on Prada's recent coffee table book, "it had stills from films they've made, background information on the architects of their stores, they even have photos of the way that the bags are made — there's nothing to hide," was ; I don't think there's any way to call a self-produced work of corporate brand history an open book, although Prada successfully gives the impression of offering readers an unedited, inside take. "Being trendy doesn't really work [for brands] because they're over in two seconds," said Gevinson, "but then trying to sell us the whole 'edgy' thing — like, there's , where Daria concludes, 'Edgy is a term created by middle-aged, middle-brow people who try to say that they're doing something really dangerous but they're really just, you know, marketing a product that came out of lots of research and meetings.'" The audience laughed. Afterwards, Galloway said he wanted to give Gevinson a gift. When he was 15, he said, he hit a growth spurt — "imagine Ichabod Crane with bad acne" — and found "some form of security, in the form of fashion." He reached into his breast pocket and produced a pair of angular sunglasses. "I was the bomb in my flash blue Vuarnets," he said, and Gevinson giggled and thanked him as he handed them to her. Later, I went over and introduced myself — in fact, Tavi was the one who let me know, via Twitter, about the conference, and she very kindly ensured I got a ticket on her list — and she immediately hugged me and started talking about Terry Richardson, Sassy magazine, and showed off a 1992 issue of Details with Nirvana on the cover, which she had just acquired from Marisa Meltzer. Kurt Cobain looked particularly dejected in one of the photos inside. "Maybe someone just told him, 'Robert Pattinson is going to play you in a movie one day,'" deadpanned her friend Nate Erickson. Tavi was trailed by the New Yorker's Lizzie Widdicombe, whose notebook hung open, page upon page already filled. Tavi complimented my shoes and introduced me to her mother. (A prouder, more supportive parent could hardly be imagined.) We stepped out into the muggy afternoon sun of Midtown, and hugged goodbye; Tavi had to head out of town for an uncle's wedding. [Official Site] [Official Site] Earlier: ?Last night in London, the fashion elite and the society set both turned out for the opening of the Burberry-sponsored exhibit Vanity Fair Portraits: 1913-2008 at the National Gallery. And while Lily Allen, shown at left, kept it pretty (I know she does the long floral dress and suit jacket look all the time, but it works for her!), fashion stars Erin O'Connor, Diane von Furstenberg, and even Twiggy dropped the ball big time. The full review of the good, the bad, and the ugly, after the jump. The Good: Hermione Granger is all grown up! Emma Watson looks lovely, albeit a little mature. Amy Winehouse should study English "It Girl" and recovered cokehead Tara Palmer Tompkinson: Look how polished she looks while sober! Annie Lennox is still keeping it real (in some really awesome boots) after all these years. The Bad: English children's TV program host Konnie Huq missed the memo that the rugged boot with dress thing is totally over. Model Erin O'Connor looks bland and not particularly model-like in nautical striping. Contrary to what Stacy and Clinton say, I've rarely seen an animal print read as anything but trashy. Behold Natassia Maltha, best known for her roles as "Girl in Bed" in 40 Days and 40 Nights and "Redhead at Party" in Dark Angel. The Ugly: Diane von Furstenberg brings you today's edition of "What Was She Thinking?" Not only is Twiggy wearing tapered pants, she couldn't even be bothered to tie her shoes! [All photos via .]?Ke$ha, what have you wrought? The trend for long, clip-in feather hair extensions has apparently led to such tremendous demand for rooster feathers — butt plumes make the best hair decorations, apparently — that thousands of birds are getting plucked each week. Most do not survive the plucking. Such strain is there on the nation's feather stocks that some fishing tackle stores are also refusing to sell their feathers to women, or anyone else they suspect may be not an angler, but a hair stylist. ("She brought a bunch up to the counter and asked if I could get them in pink," reports one shop proprietor. "That's when I knew.") Why can't people copy Ke$ha's relatively benign grooming choices, like bathing in glitter and glue, or the use of Jack Daniels as toothpaste instead? [] Ashton Kutcher Tweeted a photo of him and Demi Moore hanging out with Karlie Kloss, as well as modeling mother agents Jeff and Mary Clarke. Kutcher and Kloss were each "discovered" by the Clarkes, in Iowa and in Missouri, respectively. (Full disclosure: they used to be my mother agents, too.) [@] Solange Knowles is looking gorgeous in her new Rimmel London ads. [] Herieth Paul made the cover of Elle Canada. Cover line: "NAOMI...Move Over." Because — did you forget? — there can be only one black model in the world at a time. [] Burberry's fall campaign features all British people. [] Just when we thought we couldn't love Tavi Gevinson any more, the girl up and marches in the Chicago Slutwalk against sexual violence and victim-blaming. [, via ]?The Burberry spring 2012 show — presented in London earlier today — was all about big wedge heels, big bags and deep, vegetable colors. Think eggplant, celery and squash.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Holy eyebrows: Emmanuelle Alt put George Michael and Kate Moss on the latest cover of French Vogue. The singer seems like kind of a random choice, but then again as we from the video she made to mark Vogue's Web redesign, Alt is a George Michael superfan. This being the awesome video in question. [] Tom Ford has taken the unprecedented step of publishing photographs of five of his spring show looks on the Internet. Where just anybody can see them! Someone . Ford's spring collection was described by the designer as embodying values of "chastity and perversity." Now flick through the slideshow and grade looks "Chaste!" or "Perverse!" to your little hearts' content. [] Diane Kruger had to get cut out of this Dior couture dress. "It was so big that it took me an hour to get into it and the only way for me to go to the bathroom was to take off the bodice," said the actress. "Once I finished dinner, I had to go to the bathroom and it became so tight that I couldn't breathe anymore. Josh had to come with me to the lady's room and cut me out of it." [] Here is a promo for the documentary that Albert Maysles is making about Iris Apfel. [] What, you'd expect a Cosmopolitan lingerie collection for J.C. Penney to look tasteful and restrained? [] This is Nicki Minaj's fragrance ad. [] And this is Jerry Hall's iconic 1995 fragrance ad for Thierry Mugler's Angel. Christophe de Latilade, Mugler's longtime creative director, recalls of the shoot: "We shot this in White Sands, New Mexico. Apparently Jerry had been visiting her family in Texas at the time, so she told me, 'I will make my arrangements, just tell me where the hotel is.' The day of the shoot, a huge white stretch limo appeared with a chauffeur who looked like a pimp or something, all dressed in white with white crocodile boots. Jerry came out and had big Vuitton trunks filled with lingerie with her. She spent her evenings doing fittings with her own lingerie in an ugly little motel in Alamo Gordo. That was the sort of thing she did." [] Beyonce's red dress that she wore to meet the President at the little $40,000-a-plate fundraiser she hosted with her husband? Oscar de la Renta. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?The latest installment of Gwyneth Paltrow's comeback tour (courtesy of her new film Iron Man) took place last night at a special screening in New York starring an eclectic bunch of bold-faced names with eclectic clothing. There were models (Hana Soukupova, Maggie Rizer, Helena Christensen, Joy Bryant), children of celebrities (Eva Amurri and Jack Robbins, Elettra Rosselini Wiedman), the old guard (Bebe Neuwirth, Diana Ross) and a few randoms (Leelee Sobieski, Kelly Killoren Bensimon). All those and more in the full Good, Bad and the Ugly, after the jump. The Good: I'm always a sucker for a picture of a big sister and a little brother, like this one of Eva Amurri and Jack Robbins. Love her skirt. Also: how much do they look like their parents? Big yes to the drop-waist on Famke Janssen's dress. Ok, Hana Soukupova, I get it already: You're a model. You are perfect. I'll have what Helena Christensen is having. Even if it's safari wear. Joy Bryant is a dream in her very modern and very sophisticated pants-and-jacket pairing. Love the silhouette. Love the colors. Want the necklace. Now. I know I should hate Leelee Sobieski's dress, but I can't help but love it. Maggie Rizer: Keeping it real, playing to her hair. Gwyneth's dress: See-through or not? The Bad: Is anyone else surprised to learn that Tracey Ullman is the Burberry trench-wearing type? Bebe Neuwirth: When headbands and bad fashion happen to good people. Carol Alt: When too much satin and bad necklines happen to good people. Is Diana Ross wearing galoshes? And leggings? And is Elettra Wiedman wearing them too?? Liv Tyler disappoints with a sad sack of a dress paired with flesh-tone shoes. Tory Burch: Furthering my belief that no one dresses worse than fashion designers. Terrence Howard and his son are both dressed as Indiana Jones. Also, is his daughter carrying a clutch? Or a Trapper-Keeper? The Ugly: I do believe Kelly Bensimon is wearing wet boots with that most unfortunate dress. [Images via .]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Heidi Klum is on the new cover of Allure. Inside, she poses nude and talks about plastic surgery — which she says she disapproves of. "I don't want to name names, but it's like, wow, I remember you five years ago, looking to me so beautiful, and now it's like…who is this person? And I know girls half my age who do it. What are they gonna do at 40 or 50, when the shit really hits the fan?" Naturally, the ladymag pressed her to address her pending divorce, after seven years of marriage, from Seal. "Sometimes life throws you a curveball, and then you just figure it out and deal with it," says the supermodel, "but my dream always was that — to have the perfect family and have lots of children and a beautiful garden and trampolines and swings and things. I had dreams of how I wanted things to be and planned for things and, as we all know today, they don't always turn out as you dreamt them in your head." [] Klum says she learned everything she needed to know about blow jobs (which Allure, for some reason, calls "blowies") from gay men: She explained the importance of gay men in her life: "They are like this kaleidoscope of interesting thoughts and opinions. They teach you so many things about men that are useful." "Like what?" our reporter asked. Klum paused, and then made the universal tounge-moving-rapidly-in-cheek motion that signifies blowies. She explained what she's learned (off the record, of course), and our reporter said she discovered two things: 1) Everything sounds authoritative when said in a German accent, and 2) Seal was a lucky guy. Far be it from Heidi Klum to suggest she's a blow job expert, but... [] Miranda Kerr is now in three dimensions on some Reebok billboards in Germany. [] For anyone who's ever wondered why Ralph Lauren polo shirts have horses the size of large rats embroidered on them, Ralph has a master plan. [] Oscar de la Renta live-Pinterest-ed its bridal show yesterday. Of course. [] Daphne Selfe is 83 years old and still modeling. We hope she's BFFs with Carmen Dell'Orefice and they meet regularly for afternoon tea. [] A show of Kate Moss, Erin O'Connor, Heidi Klum, and Helena Christensen photographs by Rankin, helpfully titled "Contains Nudity," is now open in Los Angeles. [] Karl Lagerfeld shot Linda Evangelista for the new Chanel eyewear campaign. []?There are many glad tidings of Heidi Klum this morning. First: the supermodel-slash-AOL-blogger shot a new Got Milk? ad. [] And Klum is said to be posing nude for sexy new promo shots for this season of Project Runway, since Lifetime is The Sexy Channel For Women and all. [] Klum's line for New Balance is expanding to include six models of footwear, priced at $60-$90. [] And in yet more news of the German One and, um, footwear, she also has a namesake shoe line called HK by Heidi Klum, which goes on sale at Amazon today. Styles will go for $89-$159. Perhaps we underestimate Klum's appeal, but $160 is an awful lot to spend on celebrity branded shoes. [] This roundup of Kate Moss pictures is intended to show how she looks bloody awful now, that harridan, how dare she enjoy a drink or a smoke or a sniff of cocaine, but instead it kind of shows that Kate is freakishly ageless. Total body-snark fail, Daily Mail! [] Speaking of Kate photos, here's a roundup of her wearing various white dresses over the years. [] And an old Burberry campaign, in which she posed as a bride. [] This week, Bluefly launched a fancy new online eye wear site called Eyefly where the glasses cost less than $100. It hired Tommy Ton to shoot a bunch of fashion celebrities for the homepage, and threw a (presumably) swell launch party last night. (We were invited but couldn't attend due to a conflict.) Last year, a site called Warby Parker was launched, and it too sells fashionable glasses for less than $100 (each pair sold equals one pair donated to charity, like Toms shoes). If you look at the shots of models wearing glasses on Eyefly, some of them are identical to those on Warby Parker. Did Eyefly really steal Warby Parker's photos? What, they couldn't spring for their own model and their own photographer? [] Beyonce's on the new cover of Essence. [] Claudia Schiffer is dreamy-looking in Prada on the new cover of Harper's Bazaar UK. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Today's Financial Times reports that French luxury goods group LVMH had , thanks in part to the Louis Vuitton "Neverfull" handbag, pictured. Additionally, Burberry also thanks to its line of handbags. In a video posted on the NY Times' website on Sunday, controversial Times columnist Deborah Solomon hits the streets of Manhattan and tries to figure out . Well, not why they cost so much, but why people are willing to spend so much. Solomon begins at Chanel, highlighting the venerable French brand's classic handbag ($3,150). A passerby admits that she is going to score one by simply asking her mom to buy it for her. (Gotta love spoiled New York bachelorettes!) Some Swedish tourists explain that they're shopping at Chanel because it's cheaper here than in Sweden (damn dollar!) Solomon goes on to point out that unlike a house in the Hamptons or a painting, you can take a bag with you where ever you go — so everyone can see your status symbol. Wielding a $1,700 patent purse at Prada, she asks, "when did bags start to cost as much as cars?" Actually, Ms. Solomon, it's been a while, at least since 1998, when the Fendi baguette spiked in popularity thanks to Sex And The City. But for us, the moment of clarity comes when unnamed guy says, "You reach a level. You have a house. If you got any brains you have the house first, and then you get the Prada. But getting the Prada while you're in a small apartment? You've got the priorities wrong." Those words stung. Even though ours is Dior and not Prada. We're totally guilty of buying into the luxury brand brainwashing even though we know it's evil. We're not Carrie Bradshaw, with $40,000 worth of shoes and no savings account, but we have made some absurd purchases that made perfect sense. And what that guy doesn't understand is that we're living in a world in which we're constantly being judged. No one can see your wit from across the room. The basis of who we are begins with what we wear. And that can include a well-chosen, well-made, tasteful handbag that just happens to be expensive. Also, some of us have a . We're working on it, okay? (And by that we mean thinking about buying another bag.) Anyway, here are the top 5 rationales we use when considering expensive shit: [Financial Times] [Financial Times] [NY Times] Earlier: ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?It's getting mighty chilly up here around the 40th Parallel of the earth's Northern Hemisphere, leading some (okay, me) to turn our crafting imaginations to scarves and visions in bulky-weight yarn. This Burberry-inspired cowl is warm enough to wear under a blazer or a jacket on a brisk autumn evening, and — layered over a scarf — it kept my neck and ears warm last night during Occupy Wall Street's very cold Brooklyn bridge march. Best of all, the pattern is available for free online, and it only takes a few hours to make. Here's how. This is what I used to make one cowl: 1) My favorite knitting reference book, Donna Kooler's . This is the book I learned to knit with. There are two semi-unusual techniques in the Burberry-inspired cowl pattern — the temporary cast-on, and the final joining or "kitchener" stitch. I used the Encyclopedia of Knitting to refresh my memory of both. 2) Enough bulky weight yarn to complete your pattern (I used three 50g balls of Merino/Silk/Polyamide blend that I got from in Winona, Minnesota). 3) Size 10 needles (they don't have to be circular needles). 4) A cable needle. You will also need a blunt-pointed tapestry needle, straight pins, and an iron, not pictured. Click any photo to enlarge. The pattern I followed is not my own: it was written by the excellent Julianne Smith, who once fell in love with a $750 Burberry cowl she saw in the pages of InStyle, couldn't find any such item for sale at any Burberry store or stockist, and thus decided to make a cowl of her own inspired by the designer original. (Kind of like I did with .) Smith makes the pattern available for free , but asks that it not be reproduced, so I am not reproducing it here. You should read it on Smith's . This DIY does, however, go into slightly more instructional detail than Smith does when it comes to a couple of the pattern's key elements: the use of a temporary cast-on, the cables, and the final kitchener stitch. All of these things are easy to master. The pattern itself is great: it's a straightforward 58-stitch width, with 30-row repeats, and staggered cables. Four repeats are sufficient to make a cowl. Smith kindly makes this pattern available free for non-commercial purposes, so please don't be that jerk who whips up a bunch of Burberry-inspired cowls to sell on Etsy, okay? To get started, you'll need to use the provisional cast-on. For reference, here's the Encyclopedia of Knitting's diagram for that cast-on. Start by loosely knotting a second piece of yarn wide enough to cover the whole 58-stitch width of your cowl to the end of your working thread; this second piece of yarn is going to hold your stitches in place until you're ready to finish your work. I recommend using a piece of yarn in a contrasting color to make it easier to distinguish your working yarn from your temporary yarn. (I actually used a piece of silk ribbon left over from another project, the wrapped hair comb from last week.) Holding the contrasting piece of yarn taught down the length of your needle, wrap the working yarn over the needle, around the contrasting yarn, and back up and over the needle again. Each loop of the working yarn over the needle counts as one cast-on stitch. Start working your pattern. Cabling is easy! When you get to a cable, here's what to do if you haven't cabled before: 1) First, slip however many stitches your pattern calls for — in this case, eight — off your source needle, and onto the cable needle. 2) Turn the cable needle so that the stitches are resting in the bend — if you think of the cable needle as the legs of a little person, then that bend is the crotch — and either let the cable needle dangle to the front of your work (the right side) or pass it to the back (wrong side), depending on your pattern. (One creates a left-leaning cable, the other creates a right-leaning cable. Most knitting patterns with cables stagger the pass-to-the-front cables and the pass-to-the-back cables so that a pleasing overall order emerges.) Then, knit the next stitches off the source needle (in this case, eight). 3) Then, slip the stitches out of the bend and down onto the other "leg" of the cable needle, and knit them as though the cable needle were your source needle. Finish the row, and continue knitting. Your cable will look like the photo in 4) when you've done a couple more rows. See how those stitches cross over each other and create a sort of a twist? That's your cable. Continue working Julianne Smith's pattern until your cowl reaches your desired length. You want to be able to slip it over your head easily. (If you wanted to, you could double or triple the length, and make a mobius strip infinity scarf. That would be pretty cool.) When you're done, block your work while it's still on the needles. Pin the unfinished cowl to an ironing board; lightly tug at the cables, not to the point that they flatten, but just so they open up a little. Then put your iron on its hottest, steamiest setting, and just steam the heck out of your knitting — without letting the sole plate of the iron touch your project. Allow your knitting to dry completely before removing the pins. Next comes the kitchener stitch, our combination join and cast-off. The great advantage of this stitch is that it creates a join that has no visible seam. Once you're finished, you won't be able to find where your cowl began or ended. To do it, you essentially thread a needle and use it to graft your last knitted row to your first. To begin, take your working yarn, measure out about three times the width of your cowl, and break the yarn at that point. Thread your blunt-tipped needle, and arrange the two edges of your work — the last row you knitted and the first — so that they almost meet. Poke the tip of your tapestry needle through two of the stitch loops from your cast-on row; ease those stitches off the contrasting yarn that had been holding them in place, and pull the tapestry needle through. Then, returning to the last row, ease two stitches off your source needle, and pull the needle through those. Take the tapestry needle back over to the cast-on row, and poke the tip through the loop of the second of the two stitches you first sewed — and through the next loop that comes off the contrasting yarn. Return to the last row, put the tapestry needle through the second loop from the last stitch and the next loop off the source needle. Continue in this way, slowly easing loops off the source needle and off the contrasting yarn, and joining these loops to each other with the tapestry needle and yarn, until you reach the other side. Then break your yarn, and work in the ends, either with a crochet hook or the same tapestry needle. This is the final product. Pretty snazzy, right? I know the color in these photos is weirdly inconsistent, ranging from Muppet-bright to dank grey-blue; in real life it's a nice, deep, blue somewhere in between. This is a fine project for a beginning-to-intermediate knitter: it lets you practice cabling, and mastering the kitchener stitch is fun. I can see several of my friends getting these for the holidays. Happy knitting! And again, that pattern is: [The Garter Girl] If there's something you'd like to see as a DIY project, you . In the meantime, to check out past DIYs: ?Despite the bad omens — the introduction of two apparel lines designed by British celebs; Burberry's of its signature plaid pattern; the fact that the big fashion editors haven't shown up to London's Fashion Week in ages — Richard Bradbury, chair of the UK's Graduate Fashion Week, insists that the state of British fashion . Sure, he says, the big talent — native sons and foreigners alike — have been choosing to show elsewhere (Milan, Paris, New York, blah, blah, blah) but this is a reflection of, as another Fashion Week poohbah puts it, an "exporting of creativity." There's that English joie de vivre we love so dearly! After all, why stay home when you can colonize? [The Guardian]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Behind the giddy global adoration of Adele — who deserves every bit of it as far as we're concerned — simmers something a bit darker: a collective "fuck you" to her ex-boyfriend, the chap who broke her heart and, in turn, inspired the music on her album 21, which won six Grammys last night. Who are you, dude? Because everyone is laughing at you right now. This guy is not to be confused with the first ex, the one who spat on Adele's heart and destroyed their relationship by allegedly cheating on her. The ordeal inspired much of the music on her 2008 debut album, 19. Three years later, when her second album, 21 (which took home all the Grammys last night and was inspired by a different ex), climbed to the top of the charts, 19 started doing the same. The still-anonymous dick associated with 19 then tried to , arguing that he deserved to profit as he was Adele's inspiration. Classy. So that's ex number one. The 19 ex. Not to be confused with ex number two, the 21 ex. The 21 ex is the guy we really want to know about; this was the failed relationship that fueled her music on 21, including "Rolling in the Deep" and "Someone Like You." He's the one who hurt her enough to make her an international success — perhaps the best ever "fuck you" to a dickbag that you could ever hope for. And if this guy isn't the most hated man in the world right now, he's certainly the point-and-laugh target of choice. So who is he? Adele has that they're friends again — time heals all wounds and whatnot — but his identity has still remained a secret. Which is amazing; you'd think the British tabloids would've tapped the girl's phone by now. Or maybe we've found him. , the man in question is a musician/actor who calls himself Slinky Sunbeam (or ). We find it hard to believe that anyone would fall so deeply in love with someone named "Slinky," but the proverbial "friend of the singer" explains the fixation: "Adele likes to keep part of her life back for herself, but it's an open secret that Slinky was the guy who inspired ‘21,'" a friend of the singer tells The Post. "He's a seriously good-looking guy. He has a great body and likes to wear vests to show it off. And he has this crazy hair which reminds me of Jimi Hendrix — it's really wild and untamed. "It's easy to see what attracted Adele to him," the friend adds. "He's a really popular guy, the life and soul of the party, and he's a musician as well. But while Adele has the knack for writing songs which the whole world can tap into, Slinky's material is more underground and kind of art-school trendy." You lost us at "vests to show it off." Nevertheless, friends say the romance with Adele fell victim to a burgeoning friendship between the Slinkster and Burberry model Morwenna Lytton Cobbold because, you know, "Slinky isn't the type of guy you can tie down." He is, however, the type of guy who uploads to YouTube. Do you buy it? What if we told you that coincidentally he seems to have today? Less than 24 hours after Adele won a bucket of Grammys and the Post indicted him for crimes of the heart — perhaps we've got someone here who's expecting the potential wave of vitriol and ready to ride into infamy. (Update: On the other hand, Adele also on 60 Minutes last night that The Ex in question got engaged shortly after their breakup. Not sure that sounds like Slinky's style. SOMEONE IS LYING. Color me shocked.) Adele, for her part, issued a of any romance with Slinky (ugh, typing that name is almost painful) back in 2008, long before 21, so that seems to be in response to rumors that he was the guy behind 19. In 2009, the Slinkinator also any relationship between the two. But, if you want to believe the Post, the two may have simply gotten together later, after 19 but before 21. Tabloid accusations and denials of yore aside, if Slinky* is The Ex — nay, The Ex — there's a valuable lesson here: You just can't change a man, particularly if he's a social butterfly with a hot bod. *Slinky (or the REAL ex), if you're reading now: . Or if you, random reader, know anything, let's talk.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Chloe Sevigny is on the cover of the new Out. And she has some strong words for comedian Drew Droege, of "Good evening America, I'm Chloe Sevigny..." fame: "At first I thought, Oh, they're funny. They're not even really me, they're these weird art pieces. But I've turned a little. I'm slightly offended because he's calling me pretentious, and I'm not." Oh, Chloe "TO-AST" Sevigny, that is the most pretentious thing you could have possibly said. Not familiar with Droege's oeuvre? Take a gander: The actress also says that she's not a total borrowed-clothes-horse. In fact, she sometimes has trouble even calling in samples to wear to film premieres: For the British premiere of Hit & Miss she requested about 20 dresses for consideration, but only received two. "Aren't I one of the top searches on Style.com, for crying out loud?" she says with mock disgust. "How hard is it to get a fucking dress from Valentino?" [] Four people fainted during Dolce & Gabbana's first couture show — which was a two-day affair that included a private opera performance, a firework show in front of Mt. Etna, and some 80 clients flown to Sicily via private jet. The Telegraph, along with Corriere Della Serra and Le Figaro were the only press organizations that agreed to attend under the following muzzle of conditions: no tweeting, filming or publication of any unauthorized photographs of the show or its guests. First, two clients fainted from the heat on Sunday. Then, when the event began with a launch of Bellini's Bel Canto opera Norma in the ancient Roman amphitheatre, the fashion editor toppled, too. She fell (elegantly) to the floor just in front of the orchestra pit. First aid was provided by a doctor dressed as a druid who happened to be in that evening's chorus. He prescribed ice-cream, and she soon recovered. Later, on a terrace facing Mt Etna, guests picked at a 30ft long trestle table heaped with Sicilian sweetmeats, watched an outrageous firework display set to Verdi's Valzer Brillante, and danced. A fourth unlucky person fainted on Monday, at the beach. [] Marion Cotillard bagged the August cover of Vogue Paris. [] Here's the campaign video for Yayoi Kusama's collection for Louis Vuitton. Yesterday, the elderly artist rolled up to the New York Louis Vuitton flagship to fete the collection in a polka-dotted wheelchair. [] Archie Comics is launching a makeup line with M.A.C. next spring. The theme will be "Archie's Girls" — Betty and Veronica — and this will be the logo. [] Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche is on the cover of Manifesto. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Burberry: It's a label that brings up even more discussions about class warfare than an Intro to Marxism class. The Spring/Summer 2008 collection, shown today in Milan, is distinctly ruling class however: Satin mini dresses and big metallic bags. Gallery below. (All images via ) ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?John "I love Hitler" Galliano was swiftly fired from Christian Dior after he was arrested for allegedly harassing a couple with a racist tirade in a Paris bar — and after rather damning footage of Galliano engaging in a similar rant emerged in the tabloids. Dior distanced itself from its longtime creative director almost immediately, but the future of Galliano's namesake label hung in limbo. John Galliano the fashion house was reported to be unprofitable, a at best; retailers said they would no longer stock it; Dior C.E.O. Sidney Toledano went to the Galliano show (which went ahead sans John Galliano) but told the press he was only there to support the house's workers. There was speculation that the brand — now kinda synonymous with hate speech — would close. Well, limbo no more: Dior's parent company, Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, which owns 91% of the John Galliano brand, has fired the designer. Apparently, LVMH is willing to gamble that customers won't be turned off the John Galliano name and brand, provided that John Galliano himself is nowhere in sight. Would you buy a John Galliano perfume or a John Galliano dress? [] Donna Karan, for what it's worth, believes John Galliano's drunken, anti-Semitic rants were "blown up out of proportion" in the media. "I know John. I've met John. He's a wonderful designer, a brilliant designer, and he probably needs help and support right now. To be a designer's a very taskful situation, and sometimes it can push a few limits." He's not racist, see — he's taskful. [] Vogue editor Grace Coddington turned 70 yesterday! This is a picture of Coddington at her 50th birthday, in 1991. [] Today in the Kardashians, here is a photo of (part of) Khloe's shoe closet. [] The three eldest Kardashian sisters — renowned at all times for their discretion — had a secret meeting with OPI to explore a possible nail polish collaboration deal. So secret, in fact, that two of them Tweeted about the secret meeting. [] Jewelry designer Alexis Bittar lives in a beautiful, tastefully appointed Brooklyn Heights apartment. The more you know! [] An artist named Inge Jacobsen renders Vogue covers in needlepoint. [] More than 30 people got the Ecko Unltd. brand tattooed on their bodies since company founder Marc Ecko offered a lifetime 20% discount to any bearer of such a tattoo. []?Hint is reporting that the show for 's namesake label, originally scheduled for this Sunday in Paris, is canceled. [@] The video of John Galliano drunkenly declaring his love for Hitler and discussing people who should be "gassed" had been in circulation well prior to the designer's Thursday arrest for hurling anti-Semitic and racist slurs at another couple. The paparazzi agency that brokered the clip to the Sun had offered it for sale months ago, but there were no takers: Dior is a big advertiser. The unnamed person who took the video and cashed the check is "very happy." [] Michael Specter, who profiled Galliano for the New Yorker in 2003: "Galliano's act of self destruction was about as shocking as the widespread discovery, also this week, that Charlie Sheen is a vulgar fool. Galliano is a deeply talented man, and his early shows helped set fashion on a course it has followed for years, turning the business into a celebrity cult. But his career, and his life, were built on twin pillars of excess and exhibitionism. He was a slave to addiction; those addictions rotated through the years: drugs, sex, alcohol, exercise, and finally, and most damagingly, his own public image. But who could be shocked at his behavior? Who would have expected any other end? (If it is the end: the fashion world has a remarkable ability to shrug off the odd deeply flawed human being, as long as he or she can cut a dress like Galliano can or wear one like Kate Moss, who, despite behavior that sets a disastrous example for millions of girls, including issues with drugs, is forgiven because, well, she is really very pretty.)" [] Suzy Menkes reports that John Galliano will likely go to The Meadows rehab center, in Arizona. It has previously treated Elton John and Donatella Versace. She also writes that Galliano's namesake label, which is financially backed by Dior, "barely breaks even financially" and is produced under license. That any licensees will want to be associated with Galliano and his label now seems unlikely. [] Interesting facts about Dior's own profitability, from the Journal: "The label didn't begin to turn a profit until 2002, and since then it has struggled to improve its bottom line. Its sales of ?826 million ($1.14 billion) and operating margin of 4.2% still lags far behind that of Louis Vuitton, with its estimated ?5.5 billion in sales and 45% operating margin. Despite the lackluster performance, Mr. Arnault has continued to pour money into Dior, which insiders say has always been the businessman's pet project." [ Cathy Horyn reports that John Galliano did not contact Dior after his arrest, or during the weekend that preceded his firing from the house. Horyn notes "the lack of communication between the house and its star designer at such a crucial moment points to deeper strains." The Times fashion critic also says, "The only show I have ever stood to applaud was a Galliano show, six or seven years ago. He used a special casting of sideshow performers - twins, fat people, exceptionally tall people, freaks in most people's eyes — and he closed the show with a supermodel dangling a puppet in his likeness. The manipulated designer. But who was pulling whose strings?" [] More from Pat Field, who yesterday compared John Galliano's infamous "I love Hitler" video to the comedy of Mel Brooks: "I think Natalie Portman and others have been too quick to judge in this case without all the information being collected...Look, I'm not saying that anti-Semitism is acceptable in any way, because it is not. But I honestly believe that until the judicial process runs its course, any judgments should not be made so quickly. We live in a time where information gets out so quickly that things can get blurred without the full story being known. Nobody knows exactly what went on. John could have been being harassed and that's why he flew off the handle." [] Here is the inevitable drawing of John Galliano as a Nazi. [] There is a wild rumor that Riccardo Tisci, the creative director of Givenchy, will replace Galliano at Dior. Haider Ackermann will take over at Givenchy, and Stefano Pilati will be ousted in favor of Hedi Slimane at Yves Saint Laurent. [] One piece of good news for Galliano today? Never mind losing his job for being a racist dick: he's won back the rights to control the galliano.fr domain name, which had been taken over by a cyber-squatter. []?You might find the of worker mistreatment at the factories that produce several of the Kardashian family's numerous clothing and accessories licenses horrifying, disgusting, or even sadly unsurprising. Kris Jenner has a different word: Libelous. The Kardashians have called Star magazine's claims that child labor and forced labor are taking place at Chinese factories that make Kardashian tchotchkes baseless, and have sued the magazine. Also on the sue list is the Institute for Global Labour and Human Rights, which was one of Star's sources in its investigation. IGLHR director Charles Kernaghan said — on TMZ, natch — that his organization had already been investigating factories that manufacture for the Kardashian brands when Star called, but admitted that he personally had not visited the factories in question and seen the conditions first-hand. "We haven't finished our research," said Kernaghan, "but what I'm saying is that with every research campaign we have done in China, you always come up with nasty sweatshop conditions." The Kardashians claim they have people who "patrol" the factories their licensees contract with to ensure safe working conditions. [] UPDATE: Counsel for AMI, which publishes Star, tells us that the Kardashians have not filed suit. Ivanka Trump's footwear licensee is denying it copied a Derek Lam sandal, even though the two shoes are so identical they could be worn as a pair. Lam the company a cease-and-desist after learning of the existence of the knock-off, but Trump's licensee, Marc Fisher, won't be complying because it says Lam's shoe is "not iconic." They nonetheless seem to have found it "iconic" enough to copy stitch for stitch. [] 2011 really was a good year for animals guest-starring on fashion covers. [] Andrej Pejic is on the cover of Fashion. [] Saskia De Brauw — who is everywhere right now! — is also on the cover of Figaro Madame. [] Christian Louboutin shows what a lifetime of practicing yoga can do for you. [] Daphne Guinness Tweeted, and then took down, this photo of herself with her boyfriend, French writer Bernard-Henri Levy. Levy is married to actress Arielle Dombasle. [@]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Kim Kardashian is launching her fourth signature perfume since 2009, True Reflection. Explains the hyperreal star, "I definitely think I'm in a reflective period in my life, probably more so than any other period." This is Kardashian's first attempt to crack the department store market — True Reflection, starting at $55, will hit Lord & Taylor shelves this summer. Lest you think it an Eau de Divorce, Kardashian says, "That is definitely a part of who I am, but that is not what the fragrance is about at all." What is it "about," then? "It is about overcoming things and letting your true self come out." [] Lily Cole is the face of a limited-edition line of makeup marketed as cruelty free by the Body Shop. As you can see, there's a heavy reliance on the color pink. [] A pregnant Julia Restoin-Roitfeld was styled by her mother, Carine, for the latest cover of i-D. "Pregnancy's a moment in a woman's life when it's really important to still feel seductive," says Restoin-Roitfeld. "I loved that my mum dressed me sexy like that...I still dress how I used to dress and sometimes people look at me weird on the street, as if because I'm pregnant I stop being a woman." [] Meanwhile, newly minted Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons is on the magazine's other cover. This is the ordinarily very private designer's first magazine cover and first magazine profile since the news that he would be taking the reins at Dior was announced last month. [] Speaking of Dior: here's a short online ad, shot at Versailles, featuring Depeche Mode's "Enjoy the Silence." [] Yves Saint Laurent is launching a foundation to match its popular Touche Eclat concealer. Reports Women's Wear Daily: Unlike traditional foundation formulas, which contain opaque powders that can make skin look dull, and mother-of-pearl pigments that may reflect light like mirrors, Le Teint contains neither, explained YSL executives. Rather, it has a "soft-focus gel" with a translucent texture said to smooth imperfections while ensuring skin's color purity. There is also a "fluid light concentrate" with gold-colored pigments and supple lamella lying side-by-side to form a film that reflects — yet doesn't modify — light. YSL holds three patents on the formula. It'll retail for $55 a bottle. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.? *Yeah, wink wink. Somehow we're guessing it really doesn't begin till 9:30, but Marc had to read it in the trades before he'd believe they'd actually changed the slot on him.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Marc Jacobs says he's planning to expand into cosmetics and is working with Sephora on a line. "I see makeup, fragrance — everything, really — as an opportunity. The idea of choosing a color for your lip, or an eyeliner — it's just such a delight. The ritual of waking up and making those choices is something people really enjoy. We currently are working on defining what Marc Jacobs cosmetics will be, what they'll say, what makes them distinctive. I think that will take some time, but the first meeting was good." No launch date has yet been set. [] Here is one minute of Bar Refaeli playing tennis in her underwear, in promotion of her new underwear line. She picks a wedgie at approximately 0:06. Cool ad, bro. [] Crystal Renn has blonde hair now. And when it's not wet from swimming with dolphins (!), she looks kind of like Lara Stone. [] Lauren Conrad is topless on the cover of Glamour. [] Emily Blunt made the cover of British Elle. [] Charlotte Gainsbourg is on the cover of the new Oyster. [] Anthropologie is launching 11 new limited-edition designer collaborations — including one with Karen Walker — on April 5. The wares will retail for $120-$300. []? Despite its really fresh, gorgeous cover of Liv Tyler, we're not loving this month's issue of Glamour. First, there's the laugh-out-loud coverline Sexy At Any Size!, which we'd be more likely to buy into if the women shown in the advertisements and fashion spreads inside the magazine were actually any size over a size 4. Our ire is further heightened by the promotion of a story on The Secret Things Men Do When Women Aren't Around. Puh-leeze. Do we need a magazine article to tells us that most American guys drink beer, watch TV, scratch their balls, and masturbate when we're at home doing our laundry? And we aren't buying editor-in-chief Cindi Leive's letter to Glamour readers in which she calls for American women to begin changing their ideas of the perfect body-type and weight. Memo (yet again!) to women's magazine editors: once you guys start regularly publishing photographs of models and celebrities who are over a size 8, then maybe impressionable young women will take your "love your curves" call-to-arms seriously. For more (oversimplified) thoughts on this issue of Glamour, continue on to MAGHAG STICKERS: (As always, to download your girly-hued, non-advertiser-friendly YES and MAYBE stickers, click here, then read on for a list of page numbers and our corresponding votes.) Page 64: YES [Free shit, including Burberry trench and mod-graphic caftan/dress!] Page 106: MAYBE [Scoff at beauty editor Andrea Pomerantz Lustig's ignorance of how cold sores actually work. Hint: a person can't re-infect herself with the herpes virus with her lipstick, Andrea: the virus resides in her bloodstream]. Page 128: YES [Cute sneakers!] Page 152: MAYBE [Find out which of your lunch sandwiches are actually unhealthy!] Page 155: YES [Freaky news on how pregnancy changes your body!] Page 156: YES [How to deal with your doctor!] Page 175: MAYBE [Jennifer Baumgardner admits that, in addition to with her "good friend" Anastasia, she's also hooked up with her!]. Page 196: MAYBE [Elisabeth Rohm confesses she acted-out in public as a teenager in order to get attention; marvel at how little things have changed!]. Page 214: YES [Wonder if Meredith Vieira is really as unimpressed with interviewer Carole Radziwill as she looks!] Page 246: MAYBE [Glamour's answer to the success of Jackass!]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.? A source says: "Painkillers and booze have caught up with him. The only way he was able to cope with the stress of sex scandals and his roller-coaster life was to mask the pain with substance abuse." Another insider claims: "His muscles and lungs are deteriorating, and he's bedridden much of the time. He can walk, but not for very long." [, ]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Milk is a for hip, fashionista parents. The children's clothes featured inside are made by labels like Burberry, Baby Dior, Robert Cavalli and Diesel. And, for an article on breastfeeding in the magazine's new issue, the story is illustrated with a photograph by Terry Richardson in which a new mother is pictured squirting milk from her naked breast at the camera while her baby grins. Gotta love the French! The image, after the jump. ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Neiman Marcus is known for its expensive merchandise, hence the nickname "Needless Markup." But the stuff in the new "Just Kidding" catalog has to be seen to be believed: A $100 sequined jacket! A $200 dress! A $300 faux-fur coat! For children. $140 Burberry rain boots and a sleigh bed/duvet/pillow ensemble that costs more than your rent, after the jump. Here are the $108 and $110 sequined jackets. Cute! And that dress with the white lady on it that the black girl is wearing? $238. Props for ethnic diversity, though. Hahah, OMG, being rich is so fun! The one on the right? Her shirt says, "My dog for President." Drill, baby, drill. That jacket is $328. The jeans are $98. My jeans are 48 bucks but my mom didn't buy them for me. I've said it before and I'll say it again: Juicy Couture is neither juicy nor couture. This little pink dress is $128. The cat is not included. I did not know that there was Juicy Couture for infants. I thought it was just for pre-teens and the soccer moms who dress like them. You learn something new every day. This bed belonging to "Emily" features a duvet cover ringing up at $615. A twin dust skirt? $430. Each sham is about $130. The "boudoir" pillow in velour with faux leather pocket and buckle detail costs $210. This sleigh bed, in full size, is $1,159. Emily gets over when the tooth fairy comes, no doubt. Marc Jacobs! For children! That little red dress is $231; the boots are $312. The dog is all, "WTF?" Pennies from heaven? How about dollars from Daddy? He makes it rain! Why else would a child need a $385 Burberry raincoat? Aww, sorry, honey, I think he might be Le Gay.?That new Neiman Marcus catalog we has an accessories "story" called "Aiding and Abetting," in which a model pretends to be a cat burglar. Because, you know, crime is sexy. Plus, since the crap is so effing expensive, theft is pretty much the only way you can get it. (An aside: Do you think that someone was like, "Uh, but we can't use a black model for this shoot." And someone else was like, "Why not?") After the jump, the most well-accessorized "break-in" since . Or . It's not easy to be sneaky when you're wearing $1000 booties. (Burberry studded black napa "The Knight" handbag, $2,995; platform boots, $940) The model totally watched episodes of The Addams Family to prepare for this shot. (Miu Miu patent leather bootie, $625; calfskin tote, $1,445) We looked for a footnote reading "no animals were harmed during this photoshoot" but there isn't one. Also: who knew leather alternatives were so damn pricey? (Stella McCartney bronze painted and flocked patent PVC handbag, $995; black polyurethane-coated polyester and wool platform bootie, $995) We had a yellow-eyed black cat like this when we were young. His name was Spooky, and he was gorgeously evil. He'd bite and scratch you if you pet him too much, and we loved him dearly. Also, we like these shoes. (Gucci black/gold suede and leather platform sandals, $675) What do you think is inside the safe? Diamonds? Cash? Pictures proving the lunar landing was staged? (Tod's winter white patent leather pump, $445; black/winter white/ecru napa "Quilted Day Bag" handbag, $1,575) This doesn't make sense. Those aren't jewels, they're ornaments for a chandelier, right? Right? Why would you want to filch those? Is this what rich people steal from each other? (Prada nude/gray ombre leather handbag, $2,390; nude/black ombre patent leather and elastic sandal, $550) Earlier: ? "Everything I do has been approved by me personally. My team is mostly made up of guys, but none of them would ever think about telling me what to wear or what to do with my hair." []?Nicole Kidman's new V cover is a fold-out — a vertical fold-out, in case the above-the-fold cover didn't offer enough of her buck-naked ass cheeks for your personal liking. Inside, we have questionable use of blue eyeshadow, nudity. It's the travel issue, so all of these styling choices make perfect sense. [] Here is Beyonce in the latest ads for House of Dereon. [] Making us want to learn Spanish overnight is Linda Evangelista on the cover of Vanity Fair Spain. The cover — headline: Linda's Revenge — promises all the inside dirt on the supermodel's child-support with billionaire deadbeat dad Francois-Henri Pinault. [] Chloe Sevigny made this video to promote her Opening Ceremony line. [] This Brian Atwood ad featuring Candice Swanepoel was banned on the Upper East Side. The designer wanted to display it on the building that houses his boutique, but got rejected. [] P'Trique and Tyra Banks shot this "trailer" for America's Next Top Model. P'Trique has some suggestions for the theme of the next cycle: "Babies! Picture this: a photo shoot from womb to runway. Judging panel: Suri Cruise, Blue Ivy Carter, and Shiloh Jolie-Pitt." [] Although that cycle seems unlikely to happen (although with Tyra, you never know...) you can knock yourself out on this slideshow of current top models' baby photos. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?It turns out that the between Madonna and Elton John was, like the award show itself, just a warm-up for a nastier, more passive aggressive Oscar feud in which one of the singers may be left alone and crying over a melting ice cream cake while the other is toasted by a host of celebrities even as an inexplicable sense of remorse crawls in the pit of her preternaturally toned stomach. The contentious superstars will each be hosting post Oscar fetes aimed at ensnaring as many A-list celebrity guests as possible, and just like in a movie about two high school girls vying for the popularity crown, the winning party will be the most well-attended party (though anyone who gets stuck with Kim Kardashian should automatically lose). Sir Elton and his partner David Furnish will be hosting their annual Oscar dinner party, which will benefit the Elton John Aids Foundation, at the Pacific Design Centre. Tickets are $3,500 and some notable guests include Katy Perry, Chace Crawford, Dita Von Teese, Heidi Klum, and Jessica Alba. The Elton John party roster doesn't seem too shabby until one looks at Madonna's, which reportedly includes the real heavy-hitters — Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Britney Spears, Natalie Portman, Sean Penn, Tom Hanks, Jennifer Lopez, Tom Cruise, all the Old Testament Hebrew personages, at least six of the Olympian gods, and Wonder Woman, who has personally challenged Madonna to an end-of-the-evening charity arm wrestling contest. Madonna has gone so far as to poach Elton John's favorite Los Angeles florist, David Butterbaugh, and a source says of the 53-year-old voguer's determination to out-invite Sir Elton, "Madonna wants to make sure she has better guests than Elton. The war between them has now become quite personal." This prolonged smolder between the two began in 2004 at the Q awards when Madonna won Best Live Performance and Elton John mashed his sour grapes by claiming that she had lip-synced and, moreover, deserved to be shot for the offense. It looks like Madonna might get the last laugh, but we can't help but wonder if she won't think of a lonely Elton John sitting around a table of B-listers and call to invite him to her party as the night wears on. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?John Galliano's perfume Parlez Moi D'Amour launched in Europe and the Middle East with a snazzy Taylor Momsen-infused ad campaign last year — and was supposed to go on sale in the U.S. this spring. But . The company wouldn't give precise figures or name names, but some German and U.K. stores have not stocked the scent — although the impact on sales in Italy and France has been minimal. "Everyone knows John was sick at the time" he was caught on camera ranting about loving Hitler and all the people who would have been "fucking gassed," says the head of the company that holds the perfume license. John Galliano — who has from the label that bears his name — is just like Kate Moss, in fact. "We have all forgotten now that she messed up." An industry analyst, speaking anonymously, put the perfume's global wholesale sales since the launch at around $14 million, and said that it could be "several months" before people forget their "negative perceptions of the brand." [] Versace booked Dutch model Saskia de Brauw for its fall campaign. "For me, it is expected to have the blonde girl, the sexy girl, and this is what Versace meant recently," says Donatella Versace. "But I thought about how in the past, when Gianni used girls like Kristen McMenamy and Stella Tennant, everyone was always saying, ‘Wow, this is not a Versace girl, she is not blonde.' Sometimes you need to renew yourself to work better and to make a little bit of a push." [] Here's another shot from Helena Bonham Carter's Marc Jacobs campaign, which is maybe our favorite of the season so far. [] Our enjoyment of these photos of Joe Jonas modeling Calvin Klein men's wear is necessarily impacted by the fact that we can't remember: is Joe Jonas the one who fucks? [] Here's Eva Mendes in her Thierry Mugler Angel perfume campaign. [] Heidi Klum conducted an interview from a luxury suite at the Mondrian hotel — from atop a big pile of sand she'd had dumped on the floor there specially. Where can one go to get a big pile of sand delivered to a hotel suite in Manhattan, you ask? Home Depot. Klum, who is promoting her and her soon-to-be-released perfume, Shine, says Seal has never seen Project Runway. "You know, my husband has never seen one [episode.] What about that for a fun fact? He's come to the set, but he hasn't watched an episode." Klum will begin Tweeting this summer. "But I'm not into Tweeting like, ‘I'm at Starbucks and I took two sugars and syrup in my coffee.'" And she says her ads for Shine are not overly retouched. "You can sell a dream, and you can sell a lifestyle that a woman aspires to have, but you can't completely trick her. If people retouch me too much, I get upset — yes, you can help me out a little here and there, but don't go overboard. I have one tooth that's longer than another, and if you look at the [Shine] ad my snaggletooth is coming out a little bit — but I like that." [] Mariah Carey's Lollipop Bling perfume has begat the even more ridiculously named Lollipop Splash The Remix. (Coming up with names for perfume sequels must be a fun job. Naomi Campbell Cat Delxe With Kisses.) [] Beyonce is also adding a third perfume to her retinue: Beyonce Pulse is expected to sell around $70 million at retail in its first year. [] Jean-Paul Gaultier is the subject of a major retrospective at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. The museum director and chief curator says, "We are a fine arts museum and it was more about the message he has, a very humanist message, a social message, about his vision and his generosity. I think it's that we wanted to work with him as a contemporary artist, not as a fashion designer. I wanted to show this dimension of his work, and because it was contemporary art." [] Gaultier says, "I don't think my work is art. We are in the service of men and women." [] Rodarte's collection of ten couture dresses is displayed in an installation in Florence. Speaking of contemporary art, there's a Dan Flavin-esque feel to the set. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Two of these photos show a 19-year-old Claudia Schiffer posing for Ellen von Unwerth for her first Guess campaign. The other shows a 41-year-old Claudia Schiffer posing for Ellen von Unwerth for her latest Guess campaign. Do you think she bathes in asses' milk, or just the blood of imported, fair-trade virgins? [] Joan Smalls made the cover of Vogue Australia. [] T editor Sally Singer designed five manicures. This, "Taxi Driver Seat Nails," she says she did because she liked "those strange, matte textures like the wooden beaded coverings on New York taxi driver's seats. This would look good with Burberry's spring collection." []?Pippa Middleton may be coming to fashion week. Do you hear that? The real-life sibling of a person who married a person! Middleton is in New York City to take some meetings related to the October publication of her book about entertaining, and she is expected to attend some fashion shows while she's here. Let's hope some designer has the sense of humor to . [] Ageless superbeing Iman has launched a lifestyle Web site called Destination Iman. [] Anna Dello Russo's spoken-word dance-pop masterpiece, "You Need A Fashion Shower," is getting re-released with a new video in honor of the editor's upcoming H&M collection. The directors are Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, so the results promise to be fancy. But we'll take any excuse to . [] French photographer Anne Deniau shot Alexander McQueen at work from 1996 to 2010. She has collected some of her images in a new book, Love Looks Not With the Eyes. "After Lee passed away there was this legend about his dark side, that he was a tortured man, that he had some macabre side, and that is absolutely not the man I knew," she says. "He had dark moments like any creative artist, great highs and downs, but apart from that he spread such light. He was very generous, he was faithful, a lovely person, he was very cheerful. I wanted to do something as close as possible to the man I knew." [] If you (like ) are a fan of the excellent indie fashion magazine Worn, you should know that the publication just launched an IndieGogo campaign to raise $5,000 to help pay for a planned switch to a better quality, perfect bound format. Tavi Gevinson pops up in the fundraising pitch video. [] Olivier Theyskens would like you to not read too much into his new haircut. The designer chopped off his long brown hair into a sort of chin-length bob. "There's no real reason," he says, "but people always want to think there's something more to it. I've been wanting to cut it for years, but it's never been the right time — when I left [Nina] Ricci and took a year off, I wanted to cut it, but then people would think, ‘Oh no, did he freak out?!' [Laughs] And then when I took the job at Theory and moved to New York, people would have associated it with that change. So I just waited." []?Plus-size model Candice Huffine made the cover of Spain's S Moda magazine — naked, as we see so often with plus-size models. In the 50s-themed editorial , Huffine wears mostly lingerie and accessories. Seeing a wider variety of body types in fashion is good, obviously, but associating larger women with sexual availability is problematic (and a total cop-out on the part of the stylist). The magazine cover line "Reales Y Rotundas" ("Real and Round") is written in a screaming font size, just in case you missed it. [] Yayoi Kusama's Louis Vuitton collection — timed to coincide with the Kusama retrospective opening at the Whitney in July — has plenty of the artist's trademark dots. Louis Vuitton C.E.O. Yves Carcelle says that Kusama will also design installations for store windows later this year. [] Versace's fall (yes, already) ad campaign features model Elza Luijendijk. It was shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. [] Anja Rubik and her husband and fellow model Sasha Knezevic are, after two years, finally ready to relaunch the magazine 25 as an erotic fashion mag focusing on women. "The magazine has the erotic touch but it's all very sensual and within good taste," says Rubik. Contributors include Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Camilla Akrans, Annie Leibovitz, Roxanne Lowit, Ellen von Unwerth, Alex Prager, Helena Christensen, and Melanie Ward. And, naturally, they had a deep bench of model-talent to cast from: Iman, Elettra Wiedemann, Coco Rocha, Petra Nemcova, Liya Kebede, Zuzanna Bijoch, Karlie Kloss, Carmen Kass, Arizona Muse, Aline Weber, Crystal Renn, Eniko Mihalik, Natasa Vojnovic, and Jessica Miller are all featured. Abbey Lee Kershaw stars in this video teaser. [, Style.com] In honor of Naomi Campbell's 42nd birthday, Fashionista Photoshopped together 42 of the supermodel's covers. We'd have added a bedazzled BlackBerry, for authenticity. [] CNBC is airing an hour-long show about J. Crew's Mickey Drexler this Thursday. It's called The Man Who Dressed America. [] Do you know your ikat from your Dutch wax? Refinery29 has a handy guide to the real names of various of the prints that ladymags all-too-often lump together under the catch-all terms "ethnic prints" or "tribal prints" or "African prints." [] Looking to up its fashion quotient, J Brand hired Karl Templer and Craig McDean to style and shoot fall ads for its newly launched non-jeans clothing line. Former Calvin Klein model Shaun DeWet and Suvi Koponen star. [] This trove of old, often inexplicable, images from the notorious Abercrombie & Fitch catalogue is cracking our shit up this morning. [] In other important news of Pictures Of Really Hot People On The Internet, there was some kind of a 1920s cosplay group bike-ride in Paris this weekend. The street-style photos are the best. Look at how those plaids match across major seams! []?If it's Wednesday, it must be Midweek Madness, your official guide to the new issues of the weekly tabloids. This week, Owen Wilson is paranoid; Brad Pitt and Jennifer Anistion did not, repeat did not meet face to face; Angelina's addicted to diet pills; and celebs have cellulite. After the jump — with the help of marvelous Intern Maria — we sift through the murky waters of the mags in search of gossip gold.Us Grade: C+ Star Grade: B-, but we're deducting a point for cellulite photos, so: C+ OK! Grade: D+ In Touch Grade: C+ Life & Style ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Need a $1200 Lanvin dress for your preschooler? How about a $375 Burberry trench coat for your first-grader? Today in class-rage hate-reads, the Times looks at the phenomenon of designer children's wear. Blah blah blah journalistic ass-covering about how this is trend is "growing" goes here, numbers figures numbers figures: Now, children are the new accessory, as once-snooty brands line up to please conservative-minded millennials while they use tiny garments to strengthen their brand power in regions like Asia. Last year, Burberry sold $91 million in clothing for children — from newborn, including diaper bags covered in Burberry's beige check, to early teens — for an increase of 23 percent over the previous year. Most of Burberry's 12 free-standing children's stores are in Asia and the Middle East. Seemingly overnight, brands like Oscar de la Renta, Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Milly and Phillip Lim moved into expanded children's areas of stores, like the new one at Bergdorf Goodman. How expensive is an Oscar de la Renta dress and bloomers set for a 1-year-old? Why, . A Little Marc Jacobs silk dress suitable for an 8-year-old — if there are 8-year-olds out there whose parents consider silk suitable, that is — will set you back . Gucci's "sleep suits" — footie pajamas — for newborns retail for . And just in case you think that designer goods for kids is just shittily made preposterous rip-off clothes, well, the Times showed stupid-expensive kiddie stuff to rag trade big shot Andrew Rosen and fashion production specialist Cindy Ferrara: Holding a $375 silk-print girl's dress by Gucci, Andrew Rosen, the respected founder of Theory and a catalyst behind several other brands, said, "This is talking to the 1 percent, or the less than 1 percent, of the population." He added, referring to luxury makers with children's lines: "I would believe that none of these guys are doing it to make money. It's all about being more relevant. You want to keep the customers engaged in your brand." [...] Neither Ms. Ferrara nor Mr. Rosen was all that impressed with the Gucci dress. Pointing to a side seam, where the print didn't match up, he said, "On their main line, they would have never done something like this." Ms. Ferrara said, "This would have all matched." She noticed places on the inside where seams were puckered, known as roping. "The handling could be better," she said. The practical lesson here, however, is ultimately that all clothing is marked up several times over cost for retail. "The standard markup," reports Cathy Horyn, "for luxury brands is roughly 7.5 times cost. So if the price of a dress is $375, the cost is $50." And according to one mother quoted in the piece, who used to work in the luxury fashion sector, that's as true of grown-ups' clothing as it is of kids'. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Is it time for fever to set in? Yes! 10-year-old , everyone's favorite Draper rebel, looks like she's playing dress-up in a smashing, -filled closet, as featured in Interview. []?Forget those rumors about Oprah and Gayle King — we're beginning to suspect that there's something going on between Oprah and Sarah Jessica Parker. First SJP gave Oprah the exclusive (well on TV) of her (boring! cheap!) Bitten apparel line, and now Oprah has of the July issue of O: The Oprah Magazine. The magazine is setting aside eight pages for SJP to style (here it comes!) "real women...of all ages and sizes" in her cheapster wares. We're sure they'll look nothing short of giggly and girlish, though we're curious as to whether SJP will be borrowing the trick utilized in her June Glamour shoot in which her plain-Jane designs are hidden by the occasional Burberry dress and Louboutin pump. You know, all the usual things that "real women..of all ages and sizes" have at their disposal when they dress themselves in the morning! [WWD, 2nd item]?In honor of Prometheus, Michael Fassbender and a not-instantly-recognizable (thanks to the angle of her swoon) Charlize Theron are on the new cover of W. [] The editor of Vice's popular dos and don'ts column says that he gets many more photo submissions now than when it first launched, in 1994: "Cell phone cameras have gotten to the point where they don't look completely blown out in print so that's been a complete revolution in terms of what we're able to use and run. That opened the doors..that's our Gutenberg press moment. And we have editions in like 35 countries right now or something ridiculous, so all of them send us stuff too which is great because people in Romania dress like shit." He says that his writers come up with the best photo captions when they're hungover. Last night at the launch of the second book based on the column, Genesis P-Orridge read from dos and don'ts to a noisy and somewhat less-than-appreciative crowd. "Who is that guy?" asked the dude behind us. Philistines, man. [] This is the wedding dress Hilaria Thomas wore to marry Alec Baldwin. It is by Amsale, and it was the third one she tried on. [] Norwegian artist Jens Warner Andersen painted his house in Burberry's trademarked check. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Today's combatants are sort of hybrid ladymags — sure, they have fashion spreads, but they also have sex tips, and tales of woe from around the globe. Though thought-provoking pieces like "I took my friend's Xanax" (Marie Claire) and "Are You Normal About Your Hair?" (Glamour) do eat up some precious pages, there's still plenty of room for expensive shit. This smackdown's winner has a surprising handicap — find out more after the jump. Marie Claire Apparel: $187,881 (most expensive item: Emilio Pucci coat, $6450; least expensive: Hue tights $12.50; average price: $916) Accessories: $265,283 (most expensive item: Burberry Prorsum alligator bag, $23,000; least expensive: Old Navy shoes, $19.50; average price: $1,074) Beauty: $1,065 (most expensive item: Derek Lam for Kiehl's travel kit, $225; least expensive item: Sunsilk Captivating Curls Scrunching Mousse, $3.69; average price: $43) Other: $5,294 (most expensive item: Louis Vuitton Monogram Vernis Pegase 50 [in layman's terms: a suitcase], $2,300; least expensive: Esteban Paris Vacuum Powder, $13.50 [Marie Claire calls this "carpet sweetener." I think this joke makes itself.] ; average price: $230) Total Shit: $452,501 Average: $905 Glamour Apparel: $761,928 (most expensive item: Michael Kors Furs coat, $15,000; least expensive: Bitten Sarah Jessica Parker cropped jacket, $15; average price: $7,256) Accessories: $184,131 (most expensive item: Renee Lewis earrings, $19,000; Goody Modern Art Barrettes in Gold Rush, $4; average price: $1,334) Beauty: $2,194 (most expensive item: Bespoke Featherweight Dryer, $200; least expensive item: Johnson's baby lotion, $2; average price: $26) [Glamour had no "other" items.] Total Shit: $948,253 Average: $2,909 Marie Claire makes a fine showing here, but Glamour comes out way ahead, even with no carpet sweeteners or expensive suitcases. With nothing in the "other" category, its win is even more impressive — like knocking out your opponent with one hand tied behind your back. Winner: Glamour?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?I always knew that Stephen King books were based in reality: Sheryl Crow struck fear into the hearts of all by suggesting that her benign brain tumor was caused by cell phone use, although "there are no doctors that will confirm that," she told Katie Couric. "I do have the theory that it's possible that it's related to that. I [used to spend] hours on the old archaic cell phones." Concerned that she had early-onset Alzheimers, Crow went to the doctor when she began forgetting song lyrics and generally feeling "mushy" (her word), and luckily everything turned out OK. This is kind of similar to that whole myth/possible reality that putting your laptop on your lap fries your eggs, or whatever. Is that true? If you know, email me. [, ] Katy Perry and John Mayer are almost definitely fornicating again. They spent the weekend in Las Vegas at the Wynn Hotel together, and partied at a strip club called Spearmint Rhino. Did they get dances? Let's ask a source. "As for whether they got dances, they were in a strip club... you do the math." DON'T GET FUCKING SASSY WITH ME, SOURCE. [] Sometime between August 30th and September 1st, Chris Brown got a of a woman's face on his neck, and now everyone is like "Is it Rihanna??!" even though it's honestly so generic that it looks like one of those carbon-copy Sexy Ladies that weird kid in high school who never spoke used to draw in his binder. (No, it's not Rihanna.) [] When Piers Morgan insulted Rihanna's hair on Twitter, her response was: "Grow a dick." Well played. [] Carly Rae Jepson of "Call Me Maybe" fame has a new song called "This Kiss," and while I am no expert on the intricacies of today's pop music, I kiiiind of think it's a shit sandwich. Discuss.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?The other week, after purchasing a fetching-but-sturdy pair of Swedish Hasbeens sandals, I was taken aback when not one, not two, but three different people suggested that the shoes would be "cute with socks." Is it time to take sides?The socks-and-sandals trend, first spied on the Spring runways accompanying Miu-Miu and Burberry, has divided...well, the sort of population who cares about this kind of things. (Which is to say: the Civil War, this ain't.) And indeed, it has all the makings of classic high-fashion trickle-down hot-button: an on-the-face-of-it terrible idea. "," after all, hearkens back to things like German dads and the sort of arrogant nerd who also enjoys sporting shorts in blizzards to make some kind of obscure point. It's ripe for dismissal and criticism - to say nothing of the very valid charge that what may look whimsical and fetching on a gangly Latvian teenager is quite another matter on an actual leg, on an actual street, in front of people whose knowledge of the world is not Vacuum-packed in back-issues of Vogue. went so far as to make the "controversy" the subject of a "she-said/she-said" in which dueling fashion correspondents, respectively, excoriated and lauded the trend. The "con" camp dismissed the trend as the purview of "trend slaves" and declared that "there are things that just don't belong together - steak and ketchup, Bobby and Whitney, and socks and sandals. Blech." On the contrary, said her colleague: why not experiment and save the foot from sandal-chafe at the same time? Personally, I have a hard time getting any more exercised about socks -'n-sandals than about any of the ready-made-whimsical trends that bedeck Urban and the Women Who Love It. Who, after all, is to say it's any more ludicrous than a feathered leghorn, or those weird high-waisted shorts with the detachable suspenders, or, for that matter, the oft-rumored Return of the Overall? Three years ago, we all wore maternity clothes. Three before that, we needed special underpants to accomodate our 2" zippers. When you start condemning these arbitrary trends, it quickly becomes an exercise in futility and that way madness lies. A few weekends ago, I went on an urban foraging walk in a Manhattan park. In addition to the assorted naturenicks, cranks and eccentrics who made up our group were two very young women, both sporting the latest in accepted eccentricity: brief, 90s-vintage dresses, cropped leggings (in deference to nettles), fedoras, cropped schoolboy blazers, shaggy bangs, and whimsical left-shoulder tattoos. Naturally, each had, upon her feet, artfully-scrunched socks and substantial platform sandals. They didn't look ridiculous; they looked adorable, and very, very young. The fact that they were dressed identically only added to the impression that this wasn't even a style statement, it was just what you wore. "Trends" offend people because it's a wholesale embrace of the norm - and when it's an alleged departure from the norm, the result, to the nonconformist, is more galling still. But we all fall prey to this to a certain degree, both for good and ill, and there is something a bit bold about admitting it so publicly. Trends are worrisome when they promote something deeper - an inhibition of movement or health or the cooption of poorly-understood symbolism. Socks and sandals cannot be accused of this. Is it the best choice for a nature hike? Arguably not. But that the two can coexist is, for me, heartening. Now is perhaps the time for full disclosure. I have done it. I have worn white anklets with those Swedish Hasbeens sandals. And if I may say so (I can't say for sure, because I don't have a full-length mirror) I think it looked kind of cute. But there is a cautionary tale in this. One day I was wearing the socks, the sandals, a floral dress and a blazer. I went into an American Apparel to buy a pair of tights, and the manager, all of 20, approached me. "I wondered," she said, "if you were looking for work. Because you have the perfect look for our store." I need not tell you that my horror was matched, that same week, only by being mistaken for a prostitute by two middle-aged Hasids. Or that I have not attempted it since. [NY Post] [Image via ]?Modeling agency Ford did a promotional shoot featuring all of its black models — including women from all of its various divisions, straight- and plus-size — and some behind-the-scenes snapshots have leaked. (The photos are obviously not top quality, but we've reached out to Ford and hope to publish the final shots.) Jean Paul Gaultier favorite and Levi's face and Sports Illustrated star Damaris Lewis are among those featured. Highlighting models by race might seem like a weird thing to do, but models are judged on innate physical characteristics all the time (that's kind of the point of the modeling industry), and given plenty of designers still apparently think it's okay to show their collections on , we're on board with almost anything that draws attention to the beauty of models of color. Ford previously did a promotional shoot highlighting the blondes on its plus-size board. [] Someone uploaded a video of Marc Jacobs president Robert Duffy undressing to his underwear to the official brand YouTube account. The clip, which apparently featured a body double, was swiftly removed. Duffy (and the company) are being sued by a former executive who that Duffy fostered a hostile, sexually-charged work environment by watching porn on company time and making employees pole-dance for him. Duffy and Marc Jacobs International are fighting the lawsuit, and have the ex-employee of perpetrating a $20 million fraud against the company. Previously, Duffy TwitPic'd photos of a naked man at the brand's employees-only fashion week party. He then removed the shots. [, ] Marc Jacobs International has yet to comment on the video. [] Here's more of Helena Bonham Carter pulling faces in the fall Marc Jacobs campaign. [] Sarah Jessica Parker is on the new cover of American Vogue. This is the actress's sixth Vogue cover, and her second "Age Issue" cover. [] Women's Wear Daily says Sarah Jessica Parker is no longer working for Halston Heritage: "the actress and fashion brand are working on terminating the agreement, according to sources." [] Yeah, super-top-secret "sources" like, uh, Vogue magazine, which broke that news with a throwaway line in its profile of Parker. Wrote reporter Eve MacSweeney, "When Sex and the City, to her own surprise, made her a fashion star, she launched her own design label and perfumes, as well as signing on to run the Halston Heritage label, a relationship that recently came to an end." Obviously, Vogue didn't ask for details; that might be unseemly. Parker was the president and creative director of Halston Heritage, a sub-brand which focussed on reissuing lightly tweaked versions of archival Halston pieces at slightly-less-than-outrageous prices. Parker, a good soldier, wore plenty of Halston Heritage while promoting SATC2. [] Lara Stone is on the cover of Vogue Paris. It is her sixth cover of the magazine, and her second this year alone. [] Freida Pinto is on the cover of the new Interview. Interestingly, this issue features Maria Shriver interviewing Gloria Steinem. [] Rosie Huntington-Whiteley very nakedly stars in the campaign for Burberry's latest perfume, Body. [] Alice Temperley designed this scarf for Twinings. It tells the story of Earl Gray. This is to fire up your kettle. [] We kind of wish we hadn't seen this new six-piece suit collection from Rag & Bone because now we want every item. [] Alexander Wang hired these trucks which, for the next three nights, will project a video of Raquel Zimmerman in a "Blair Witch-type setting" onto the sides of buildings around Manhattan. [] All the kolors in the new Kardashian/OPI nail polish kollection are kalled things like "Kim-pletely in Love," and "Kourt is Red-dy for a Pedi." [] Some parents will pay 13 cents more per diaper so their babies can shit in trompe l'oeil denim. [] Here is a dress with Steve Buscemi's face on it. It costs $100. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?A fracas over seating at the Zac Posen show on Sunday night ended with an editor from the French magazine Jalouse slapping a public relations executive in the face. Fashion week, man. Half an hour before the show's scheduled start time, fire marshals forced the show organizers to remove 60 seats — which apparently caused a total seating meltdown, with invited guests arriving to find their seats no longer existed. And to sit in and judge others by, how would anyone in fashion know that their relative power and importance had been noticed and validated? Marie Jose Susskind-Jalou, the publisher of the influential French fashion magazines Jalouse and L'Officiel, was one of the people who had lost her seat, and apparently was not re-seated. The long wait and some "humiliating" treatment from Posen's P.R.'s angered Susskind-Jalou and her team, including daughters Jennifer Eymere and Vanessa Bellugeon of Jalouse and L'Officiel, respectively. During a contretemps with Lynn Tesoro, the head of P.R. for the show, someone slapped Tesoro. Women's Wear Daily reached Eymere, who owned up to being the slapper: "I said, ‘Don't speak to my mom like this. You have to stop to speak like that.' I said, ‘Be careful, I am going to slap you,' and she kept doing it, and it just happened. "I am sorry, I know it's bad to do that," she added. "It was a small slap. It was not strong. I didn't hurt her, it was just to humiliate her. She humiliated my mom, and I humiliated her in front of her crew. Voila. I just said at the end, ‘Now you know you don't fuck with French people.'" We're just astounded someone slapped someone at the Zac Posen show — and it wasn't Naomi Campbell. Posen later sent the Jalouse and L'Officiel team a note of apology. [] Laura Smalls, the little-known designer whose dress Michelle Obama wore at the Democratic National Convention last week, says the First Lady's selection has certainly raised her profile and spurred press and buyer interest for her fashion week show, which takes place tonight. But she turned down an on-camera interview with Inside Edition. "I answered some questions," says Smalls, whose business has one other full-time employee, her husband. "But I didn't want to go on air because I don't want to trade on the First Lady's name." [] Yesterday, Karen Walker showed a spring collection full of mid-century modernist references — cropped pants, a particularly awesome mustard yellow suit, and atomic age prints. But Walker wisely avoided offering too literal a vintage interpretation, dropping the restriction and stiffness that can make some 50s-and 60s-style clothes look like so much Leave it to Beaver gender-role cosplay. Standout pieces included the short-sleeved sweatshirt with copper metallic sleeves and a beaded neckline. Lynn Yaeger saw the eye makeup at Donna Karan and made the inevitable conjunctivitis joke. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Certain European fashion houses are that blogs have posted their Spring/Summer ad campaigns before they break in February fashion magazines. Are we really still having this debate? to Women's Wear Daily, the brands reacted with "puzzlement and consternation" when scans of their ads appeared on the likes of Modelinia, Fashionologie — and the Wordpress-hosted of Conde Nast-owned Love. That magazine's editor in chief, Katie Grand, told WWD that "practical steps have been taken to ensure no unauthorized campaign content can appear on the blog at any point in the future." The campaigns that have been taken down appear to be Dior's, Balenciaga's, and Celine's, although they can still be easily on , less institutional . (Love's blog still has authorized advances of Spring/Summer campaigns from Burberry, Givenchy, Valentino, Loewe, , and more. The accompanied commentary from creative directors and photographers is a sign of how hard it is to talk intelligently about visuals, or maybe how many fashion people aren't much with words. Example: "It was all the things I expected it to be and it was super fun doing it!") The impact of premiering a campaign in a key print buy has already been lessened by the digital age, crowded with other visual amusements and almost impossible to control. So shouldn't these houses be happy anyone wants to look at their ads at all? Especially when they're being posted free on the sites of magazines they normally have to pay to display their campaigns? Then again, giving these companies the benefit of the doubt, trumped-up controversy is its own selling strategy. [WWD]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In Manhattan, students at Stuyvesant High School — a prestigious public school — protested a new dress code by going to class in clothing the school would ban, including spaghetti-strap tank tops and short shorts. The rules have been prompting waves of objections by students, particularly now that summerlike weather has arrived and, many noted, the school's air-conditioning has proved to be less than reliable. Even before the protest on Wednesday, students had been listing their grievances in online forums and in The Spectator, the student newspaper, with many girls arguing that the rules, and the enforcement of them, were disproportionately aimed at them. They also complained about one solution that administrators had developed for offenders: making them wear oversize gray T-shirts. "We're going to overpower the gray T-shirts," said Madeline Rivera, 18, a senior, before walking into the school. "We're outnumbering them now." She said the rules seemed arbitrary, that staff members seemed to go after certain "body shapes," singling out girls whose bodies are "more curvy." They called the protest "Slutty Wednesday," ironically. The Times reports that some students carried "their own illustrated version of the dress code, complete with a red 'X' to reflect their opinion of the rules." So that's what those red X's we've been seeing everywhere mean! Signs make so much sense now. [] Karl Lagerfeld is collaborating on a holiday collection of makeup for Shu Uemura. The Chanel designer has long used the company's products to color in his fashion sketches. Graphic designers, tell us what the fuck is up with that horrendous logo in the comments. [] Today in Celebrities Getting Paid Money For Things: Alexander Skarsgard is now a face of Calvin Klein. [] And Jessica Chastain has been named the face of a new Yves Saint Laurent perfume called Manifesto. [] Liu Wen and Monika "Jac" Jagaciak share the July cover of Chinese Vogue. It is, somewhat astonishingly given the heights her career has attained in the five years since she began working internationally at age 13, Jagaciak's first Vogue cover. [] Harvey Nichols — the department store that brought you those walk-of-shame-themed TV ads — imagines you might pee your designer pants with excitement over its sale. [] Do you want to peruse the catalog for the Christie's auction of Daphne Guinness's clothes? Of course you do. So many gorgeous dresses, and so many size 37 shoes. []?Taylor Swift's February Vogue cover profile is online. Interesting tidbits include the fact that she knows the entire "Honey Badger" viral video off by heart. But there is sadly no record of this, because Swift asked writer Jonathan Van Meter if "her cursing could be off the record," and he obliged. Unlike honey badger, Taylor Swift do give a shit. Elsewhere in the piece, Swift says that the people she "really trusts" all have one thing in common: they were not cool when they were growing up. "If you know how to be cool in middle school, maybe you have skills you shouldn't," she says. "Maybe you know how to be conniving, like, naturally." And she shares her four rules for dating — one is that dudes can't be "too obsessed" with privacy (she invokes paparazzi specifically, but presumably dudes Swift dates also need to be un-privacy-obsessed enough to be resigned to the fact that she will eventually write a song and/or songs about them), and another is that they can't make her feel "like a princessy diva" for having security or other trappings of fame. "I don't have security to make myself look cool, or like I have an entourage. I have security because there's a file of stalkers who want to take me home and chain me to a pipe in their basement." [] Rihanna is in some more Emporio Armani underwear ads. [] Shaven-headed Alice Dellal is a face of Chanel and of Marc by Marc Jacobs this season. [] Chanel Iman is looking gorgeous on the new cover of L'Officiel Paris. [] The upcoming Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Denver Art Museum looks fantastic. [] OMG EVERYBODY KARL LAGERFELD HAS A NEW KITTEN IT IS NAMED CHOUPETTE AND ISN'T IT SOOOOOOOO CUTE KITTEH KITTEH FASHUN AWWWWWWW!!!1!!1! [@]?We've said this , but sometimes we just don't know what to make of Teen Vogue and its readers, particularly when it comes to the magazine's interns, who are both the subjects of a uniquely bad and the ostensible writers of a generically-bad blog called . We'd say all the interns offend us as much as , does, but only half of them actually do. (!) And, actually it's the comments posted by readers that really get us. Like, Are they for real? (And therefore, this afternoon's sign of the apocalypse?) Or are they sly, but kinda poorly-executed jokes? Here, verbatim, are some of our favorite head-scratchers from the Teen Vogue website from today: omg you are so fashion forward! i see you on misshapes site for party you look so hot! teach me your styles! are you friends with cory kennedy???? And: I am so enchanted by the whole fashion and magazine thing! And: That was an incredibly well written article you're the total package: beauty and brains... And: emily you are truly an amazing intern. i am in complete awe of you and literally just want to be you! And then this mindfuck, directed specifically at intern Diana: wow! Diana, you are such a cutie pie! i bet u are an amazing intern at teenvogue! congratulations! if Barbie had an internship, i bet she would have chosen your job because it's every girl's dream! she might have worn a burberry trench to her interview, as well. :) [Teen Vogue] Earlier: ?We always thought there was something really suspicious and Penthouse 'Letters'-y about the Teen Vogue "", and the other day, upon reading the virgin post of new Intern Juli — pictured somewhat ridiculously at left — we finally figured out why! For your consideration, examples from three separate interns' recent dispatches: Hmmm! Could the entries all have been written by the same person, we wondered? We decided to investigate further, starting with those outfits... We were so excited by all this that we decided we'd run some numbers, but then we realized almost every single aforementioned price was wayyyy bigger than, like, our entire clothing budget (ha ha, "budget"!) back when we were interns. Our conclusion? No way did real interns write these posts! That would mean they'd have to be some sort of child of to get an internship at Teen Vogue, when editor in chief Amy Astley made it seem like all you needed to do was "Hm. Maybe this is explains why we started hating clothes. [TeenVogue] Earlier: Related: [Gawker]?Sure, Victoria "Posh Spice" Beckham is all -esque in the August issue of Allure, but even more interesting is the "Art And Artifice" fashion shoot inside. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, the spread features "the best of the fall collections," which means lots of fur and boots and stars (gasp!) an Asian model. Did buzz around the recent Italian Vogue have an effect on the fellow Conde Nast mag? Or did the editors at Allure just realize they needed to branch out? (The November issue had ; December had Asian models and January featured Asian models.) Is diversity finally returning to magazines? And can a mainstream American magazine shoot an Asian woman without resorting to any Asian stereotypes? A few images, after the jump.One of the Asian woman image stereotypes is that of "China Doll." While this (gorgeous!) woman certainly has unreal skin, her "you may gaze upon me if you like but I'm busy doing other things at the moment" pose is not so passive as to be offensive. In my opinion. Am I wrong? Fur, leather, luxe. Loving this despite myself. is back, sorta. This feathery dress is organza and therefore mind-boggling, which means it must be super expensive. So. Damn. Elegant. Ding ding ding! We have a winner. If you shoot an Asian model, you have to have a kimono. Duh. Luckily they didn't opt for chopsticks in the hair. The model, , is from Shanghai; kimonos are traditionally Japanese. But maybe since this one is by Donna Karan it's neither here nor there? Earlier: ?Anyone who's ever been dragged to a mall to buy a backpack's worth of notebooks and a new pair of regulation shoes has surely wondered if it wouldn't be possible to, you know, cram even more harried, bickering parent-teen pairs into a confined, fluorescent-lit space redolent with stale movie popcorn and sadness. What if there were some way to make back-to-school shopping even busier? Even bigger? Even more crowded? Well, Teen Vogue is inventing a new fashion holiday, to sit in the pantheon of shopping holidays alongside Black Friday and Cyber Monday and Boxing Day (Commonwealth, represent!): Back-to-School Saturday (nothing says "fun" like "school" and "Saturday" in the same sentence!). The magazine has decided the inaugural event will take place this year on August 11. Think Fashion's Night Out for the middle and high school set. Naturally, there will be branded partnerships. The Times reports that stores including Aeropostale, American Eagle Outfitters, Express, Guess, H&M, Maybelline New York, Pacific Sunwear of California, Quiksilver, Staples and Vans will participate. Cover Girl, Olay, Pantene and Tampax — all owned by Proctor & Gamble — are also involved. Deborah Marquardt, vice president for media and integrated marketing at Maybelline New York, part of the L'Oreal USA division of L'Oreal, said that for Teen Vogue's target generation, "shopping is like a sport." Back-to-School Saturday represents an "opportunity to get out in front of this key audience," she added, in a relevant way that "gives shape and focus to something that's already existed, elevating it, event-izing it and celebrating it." "If it doesn't provide anything of value," Ms. Marquardt said, consumers will not respond. "But they're going to get samples, and they're going to get offers, and there'll be a fashion show at the Grove," she added, referring to a mall in Los Angeles, "where 10-to-15,000 are expected." Let August 11 heretofore be known as the day to avoid all public places where commerce takes place. [] More fall campaigns are rolling out: Burberry tapped up-and-coming British actress Gabriella Wilde and musician Roo Panes to be its latest faces. [] Marc Jacobs' fall campaign stars models Marie Piovesan and Marte Mei van Haaster. And some large, furry hats. [] Shalom Harlow talks about her career in this behind-the-scenes clip from the Alexander Wang fall show, which she walked. Harlow grew up in Canada with "hippie" missionary parents. She was scouted at a Cure concert. "I had no connection to fashion whatsoever. I had never even seen a fashion magazine. I grew up without a television," she says. "I had no reference point for anything and I was suddenly in Paris on catwalks for designers that I could barely even pronounce their names. We would all watch on the monitor while so-and-so was out there doing her thing. And we were all screaming and clapping. And it was about what you did at the end of the runway. And then sometimes it would be about one-upping each other." [] Isabeli Fontana wears double denim on the cover of Vogue Bresil. [] Adam Sandler announced that Victoria's Secret Angel Erin Heatherton scored her first film role, on Sandler's Grown Ups 2, which is currently in production. Judging from the monitor image Sandler Tweeted, Heatherton plays a cheerleader at a carwash. "Had a blast, if you ever need a sponge bath, you know who to call," replied Heatherton. [@] Here are sketches of some of Arianne Phillips' and Jean Paul Gaultier's costume designs for Madonna's upcoming tour. [] Roberto Cavalli's Twitter is the gift that keeps on giving. [@] Skate Moss is no longer just a punny, dangerous-looking from DSquared2: it's a punny, copyright-lighthearted conceptual skate brand. Take a picture of Kate Moss, Photoshop it on a skate deck, and you have a Skate Moss board. [] Lucky has a nice round-up of old photos of big-name designers. []?Brace yourselves, Twi-hards: 'The Twilight Saga: Eclipse' premiered last night at L.A.Live's Nokia Theater, and it was epic. All the KStew and RPatz your hearts crave, plus some of the worst clothes you've ever seen...it just doesn't get any better!?Gisele BundchenThere's a strong case for calling Gisele the face of the decade. Although she technically rose to fame at the very end of the 1990s — she was Vogue/VH1 Model of the Year for 1999, and nabbed the November 1999, December 1999, and January 2000 covers of American Vogue in a rare hat-trick — Gisele has continued to dominate the entire fashion spectrum. Claudia Schiffer called her the only true modern supermodel. Gisele is a category-killer, pulling off high-fashion editorial work, commercial gigs, Victoria's Secret, and campaigns for Dior and Versace, with equal aplomb. (She is also one of the only contemporary models to have gained any kind of tabloid notoriety, which celebrity ironically makes her a more likely cover choice for fashion magazines, now that they don't put mere models on their covers.) Through every change in style, Gisele has remained on top. She goes by one name. She is . She has a line of sandals in her native Brazil. Her work ethic is highly praised, and an economist even to mathematically prove that companies that hire her make money. It outperformed the Dow! Other models should probably just give up now.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?When I heard that 's was giving readings at on , I felt destined to get some astrological advice. Unfortunately, the scene was such a clusterfuck my moon was in someone's anus.The store was chock-full of special events. Ric Pipino was doing hair on the first floor. Shoppers could "be beautified" by makeup artist Molly Roncal. Handbag designer Lauren Merkin was showing off her clutches; supermodel slash jewelry designer Erin Wasson was presenting her collection of baubles, Olivia Palermo was giving styling tips on the 4th floor in the Frederic Fekkai salon. There were employees holding trays of booze everywhere, and the store was packed. I arrived at 5:45pm and had some trouble figuring out where to line up for Susan Miller. When I did see the line, I realized that even though I was early, I was 12th in line. Miller had promised that each person would get 10 minutes. So if everything went smoothly, I already had a 2 hour wait ahead of me. Still, I hung around for a while, hoping other people would give up and I'd move ahead in line. One woman sighed and left, making me number 11. At 6:15, a store employee ushered our line through the store, and I got excited: I'd wait for a while, and then my future would be revealed! Except when we got to the little alcove where Susan Miller was giving readings, we discovered that there was another line. This line wrapped around the stairs going down to the second floor. Susan Miller was already giving two ladies a reading. There were at least ten or twelve people in front of her table filling out information cards with their star sign and question. It did not look good. "The thing is," said the woman in front of me, with an agitated look in her eye, "she's only here from 6 to 10. if she gives everyone 10 minutes, she can only see 24 people." Fuck. I looked around, but it was now impossible to tell how many people were in front of me, because there was a line in front of my line and a line to the right of my line. The organizers — and I use that term loosely — were not very forthcoming with information; it seemed that they were going to alternate, taking one person from my line and then one person from the other line, but, of course, that would be after the women who were already lined up in front of the table had gotten readings. Oh, and did I mention that the readings were not free? After waiting in line for at least 2 hours, I'd be paying $25 to find out if my Venus was in the shitter. I bailed. I did not even stop at the Svedka "lounge" for a drink. I just wanted to get out of the store. It was too crowded, too chaotic, and while there were lovely, lovely things for sale, I knew I couldn't afford any of them. I had to weave, scoot, shuffle and sidestep to make it through the crowd, the tables laden with sparkly jewelry, the ladies in poufy strapless dresses and top hats, and guys with trays of cocktails. I squeezed past a camera and a bright light, filming a crowd of folks trying to buy what appeared to be cheese. When I finally got to the elevator and pressed the "down" button, I saw this sign and realized the dudes with the dairy products were . As I snapped the photo, a random woman said, "Excuse me, you can't take a picture of that." I looked at her blankly. The elevator door open and I jumped on and pressed "door close." Out on 57th and , there was more chaos. Across the street at Tiffany & Co., there was a yellow carpet blanketing the sidewalk and yellow carts with yellow treats — in celebration of some . But it was hard to walk — and get anywhere — because there were so many folks clogging the sidewalk. My friend had emailed that he'd be at the store down the block, so I waded through the throngs — past , Yves Saint Laurent and Burberry — all of which had gentlemen just inside the door with trays of champagne, and milling crowds. Miu Miu was relatively quiet inside, gold and carpeted and museum-like. The music was good — with an '80s vibe — but no one was talking. The shoes were displayed in such a way that I felt afraid to touch anything, and I saw an impeccably dressed saleslady smile at me with a clenched jaw as her eyes traveled down my outfit (Old Navy dress, Urban Outfitters shoes) and then turned away. A black guy in a dinner jacket offered me a cupcake the size of my thumbnail. I declined. My friend was nowhere in sight, and when I texted him he replied he was still at work. It was 6:45 and I was over it. Back out on 5th Avenue, I saw bubbles coming out of and a huge crowd in front of . As I passed the side entrance of Bergdorf, a man came out; he was walking a tiny beige chihuahua wearing an electric blue mink shrug. It was definitely time to go home. Later as I was lounging in pajamas and drinking a Diet Dr. Pepper with my feet up on my couch, I got a text from my brother: ?Minimalist fashion was in fine form yesterday at the launch of the new perfume, Burberry Body. Almost everyone came looking chic and classy. There were some exceptions, of course, but surprisingly Solange Knowles was not one of them.?As viewers say goodbye to Oprah, they're also saying goodbye to a dream: Getting a ticket to be in the studio audience for her annual giveaway bonanza of her Favorite Things. Here, we catalog and itemize the $23,809,050 worth of products she's given away since 2002. Although Oprah has done many other audience giveaways--all-expense-paid trips to Australia, Disney, and Philadelphia, cars, strollers, etc.--we're focusing here on her annual holiday installments of Favorite Things. We've priced the items (approximately, anyhow) and multiplied them by 300, which is the amount of people in her . 2002 -- $730,500 * Key lime pie ($11) * Croissants ($4) * Fat Witch Baby Gift Tin ($4) * Good Karmal Mini Crates ($25) * Holiday tin of Garrett's Popcorn ($21) * Mariebelle Hot Chocolate Powder ($15) * Cranberry Creations by Nantucket Clipper ($36) * Piper-Heidsieck Champagne ($40) * Pillsbury Homebaked Classics ($3) * BlissLabs Glamour Gloves and Glamour Gel ($66) * Origins Perfect World White Tea Body Cream ($30) * Kiehl's Limited Edition Gift Box ($265) * DreamTime Foot Cozys ($55) * J.Lo Velour Sweatsuit ($100) * Karen Neuburger Pajamas and Socks ($13) * Silver Ox Cuff Watch ($40) * Tube Readers and Case ($50) * Fashion Active Labs Perfect Tee ($50) * Everyday Grace by Marianne Williamson ($20) * Johnny Mathis' "The Christmas Album" ($20) * The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle ($20) * Together Book and CD Collection ($150) * Jay Strongwater Picture Frames ($115) * O magazine subscription ($18) * Four-in-One Camera ($450) * Samsung mobile phone/camera ($400) * Talking Photo Album ($40) * Wafer-Thin CD System ($300) 2003 -- $1,527,750 * Frontgate's Portable DVD Player ($400) * Ralph Lauren Black Label Cashmere Slim Fit Crewneck Sweater ($400) * Melted Chocolate Cake Batter ($40) * Greenberg Smoked Turkeys ($30) * Barefoot Dreams Robes and adult throws ($260) * Cliff and Buster Macaroons ($15) * Gingerbread Man by Philosophy ($25) * Pure Simplicity Pumpkin Purifying Mask ($16) * Davies Gates Allspice Cinnamon Powder Sugar Soak ($21) * O magazine subscription ($18) * MAC Cosmetic Carrying Case ($125) * Nike Dri-FIT Workout Outfit ($130) * FoodSaver Vac 800 by Tilia, Inc. ($130) * Cambio Jeans ($150) * BlackBerry Wireless E-mail Device ($400) * Frederic Fekkai Creme Luxeuse, Apple Cider Clean shampoo and conditioner ($50) * UGG Classic Short Boots ($110) * Judith Ripka Two Necklace ($400) * Philip Stein Teslar Watch ($600) * Sony DCR-DVD200 Handycam ($1,000) * The Neiman Marcus Cookbook ($45) 2004 -- $4,299,600 * Quilted Jacket and Cashmere Scarf by Burberry ($560) * Dell 30" Wide-Screen LCD TV ($2,299) * Bourjois Lip Products ($50) * Eileen Fisher Waffle-Weave Merino Stretch Zip Cardigan and Pant ($400) * Maytag Neptune Top-Load Washer and Drying Center ($2,198) * Lollia Lifestyle Collection ($50) * Hand-Blown Crystal Champagne Glasses by Deborah Ehrlich ($100) * Dooney & Bourke Leather Duffle Bag ($500) * Miraval Resort and Spa ? Life in Balance ($850) * Airfare to Tuscon ($425) * Apple Bottom Jeans by Nelly ($60) * Museum Automatic Arte Watch by Movado ($1,000) * Gourmet Florida Key Lime Cake ($25) * Vietri Garden Tea Service ($316) * SpecialTeas Fine Tea Gift Certificate ($100) * Williams-Sonoma Home Bedding ($11,00) * The Magellan RoadMate ($1,499) * Dell Pocket DJ ($200) * OfficeMax Gift Certificate ($500) * Sony VAIO S260 Notebook computer ($2,000) * BeBe Winans' "A Christmas Prayer CD" & Starbucks Gift Card ($100) 2005 -- $2,211,600 * Philip Stein Teslar Diamond Watch ($2,400) * Burberry Coat ($700) * Burberry Purse ($700) * UGG Australia's Uptown Boot ($150) * Garrett Popcorn Shops' CaramelCrisp and CheeseCorn Tin ($117) * The Apple iPod ($300) * "The Oprah Sweater" by Ralph Lauren ($500) * Pure Color Cords ($170) * Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker ($60) * BlackBerry 7105T from T-Mobile ($300) * Brownies from Moveable Feast Geneva ($25) * Kashwere Shawl Collar Robe ($150) * Williams-Sonoma croissants ($40) * Philosophy's Hope in a Jar ($60) * Philosophy's "Grace" Basket ($115) * Oatmeal Cookie Dough from Fox & Obel Market ($50) * Oprah Winfrey Show 20th Anniversary Collection DVD ($35) * Sony VAIO FJ Notebook ($1,500) 2006 -- $390,000 In response to criticism that Favorite things had become such a display of consumerism and greed, in 2006, Oprah gave each audience member a $1000 credit card and a camcorder and instructions to use the money to do something kind for someone else while using the camcorder to videotape the good deed. * $1,000 credit card * Sony Camcorder ($300)00x3 2007 -- $2,364,000 * Samsung HD Camcorder (SC-HMX10C) ($700) * UGG Australia Classic Crochet Boots ($120) * ToyWatch Crystal Watches ($825) * Perfect Endings Cupcakes by Williams-Sonoma ($60) * Williams-Sonoma Melamine Bowls ($50) * KitchenAid Artisan Mixer ($350) * Planet Earth DVD box set ($60) * Kai Body Butter & Buffer ($85) * Clarisonic Skin Cleansing System ($200) * Claus Porto Soaps from Lafco New York ($40) * The Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett ($25) * Williams-Sonoma Breville Ikon Panini Press ($100) * Ciao Bella Sorbetto ($5) * Rachel Pally Swing Turtleneck and Sailor Pants ($350 * Scrabble Premier Edition from Hasbro ($70) * United Artists 90th Anniversary Prestige DVD Collection ($900) * Shaklee Get Clean ($90) * O's Guide to Life ($30) * Josh Groban's "Noel" CD ($20) * LG HDTV Refrigerator ($3800) 2008 -- $210,600 The recession year was used for "Thrifty Favorite Things." * The Story of Edgar Sawtelle by David Wroblewski ($20) * Yummy Tummies Tank ($62) * H&M swimsuit ($15) * Old Navy Suit ($25) * Norma Kamali Suit ($350) * Fit Flops ($50) * Rolling Duffel ($180) 2009 -- $0 NO FAVORITE THINGS! For the first time since 2002, Oprah scrapped the annual giveaway. No reason was given, but it was no doubt related to the recession. 2010 -- $12,075,000 * A Course in Weight Loss: 21 Spiritual Lessons for Surrendering Your Weight Forever by Marianne Williams ($25) * Hair care products from Andre Walker, Oprah's hairstylist ($65) * Baker's Edge lasagna and brownie trays with Ghiradelli brownie mix ($90) * Beecher's "World's Best" macaroni and cheese ($30) * Williams-Sonoma Breville panini press ($100) * Decoded by Jay-Z ($35) * Elfa Customizable Closet System ($1,000) * A five-year membership to Netflix ($600) * Judith Ripka Eclipse Earrings ($525) * $100 gift card for Kiva ($100) * Kyocera Advanced Ceramic knife 2 piece knife giftset ($75) * Lafco House and Home Collection Candle Set ($55) * Limited edition "25th Anniversary" Oprah watch by Philip Stein ($2,500) * Ralph Lauren Cashmere Sweater & Cashmere Blanket ($1,100) * Lululemon relaxed fit pants ($100) * Four pairs of Nike running shoes ($340) * Nikon D3100 digital camera ($700) * 7-day cruise on the Allure of the Seas from Royal Caribbean International ($700) * Round-trip airfare for the cruise ($400) * A "25th Anniversary" Oprah shirt ($38) * Sony Bravia 52-inch 3D television and blu-ray player ($3,600) * The Black-Eyed Peas' "The Beginning" ($20) * Tory Burch "Silver Anniversary" tote bag and flat shoes ($450) * iPad with Scrabble app ($500) * UGG Australia sparkle boots ($175) * A Coach satchel ($400) * Magaschoni tunic and leggings ($558) * Philosophy Hope in a Jar ($60) * Nordstrom lingerie and $500 Nordstrom gift card ($500) * Prepara Herb Saver ($30) * Chicken pot pie from Centerville Pie Company ($20) * Garrett Popcorn Shops "Oprah's Favorite Things" tin ($135) * Le Creuset cookware ($600) * Miraclesuit blue jeans ($110) * A jewelry box from Pottery Barn ($179) * Jessica Leigh Diamond earrings from Dana Rebecca Designs ($2,000) * A gift card for DonorsChoose.org ($100) * Mini croissants from Williams-Sonoma ($40) * Talbott Teas holiday assortment ($150) * The Book of Awakening by Mark Nepo ($20) * Josh Groban's "Illuminations" ($13) * Johnny Mathis' "Let It Be Me" ($12) * A 2012 Volkswagen Beetle, due for delivery May 2011 ($22,000) Other Big Giveaways * Flies 131 audience members to Philly * 217 audience members go to Disneyland * Audience gets Pontiac G6 (274 people) * 640 pregnant women got strollers, baby Uggs, and digital cameras * Flies whole audience to Australia (302 people) Ramona Emerson contributed to the research of this post.?American Vogue's fawning, and roundly criticized, of Asma al-Assad, the First Lady of Syria, got me thinking about the almost-funny and totally abject stupidity of so much of that luxury rag's "coverage" of "serious" world events. From puff-pieces about dictatorships to homeless chic, models posed as oil-slicked birds to an urban guerilla fashion story, Vogue really has done it all! Never mind the fact that nobody in their right mind would ever pick it up for its up-to-the-minute reports from Benghazi: willful obliviousness on this scale has to be seen to be believed. So, that Vogue profile! Did you know that the First Lady of Syria is "glamorous, young, and very chic — the freshest and most magnetic of first ladies"? And also, as evidenced by photojournalist James Nachtwey's accompanying pictures, very blonde? Did you know that Syria is "a secular country where women earn as much as men and the Muslim veil is forbidden in universities, a place without bombings, unrest, or kidnappings"? Did you know that the president was elected "with a startling 97 percent of the vote"? Wow, what an awesome, peaceful, equitable, stable place Syria must be to live! Except, as news sources promptly out, the Syrian regime keeps itself pretty busy doing things things like helping assassinate , trying to arm Hezbollah with scud missiles, and ruthlessly suppressing any sign of domestic dissent under "emergency laws" that have been in effect since 1963. No sooner had that bit of puffery gone to press, however, than Vogue — and the Assad regime — found itself being overtaken by events. Heard about the unrest in Syria? Here's how the New York Times some of the first demonstrations, last month: Within minutes, Syrian security men beat and dispersed the protesters, arresting several. That was Tuesday. On Wednesday, some 200 people gathered in front of the Interior Ministry building here. They included relatives of longtime political prisoners as well as activists and students, and they began calling for the release of those in custody. Once again, a large force of armed officers — more numerous than the protesters — charged the group, and arrested 36 people, witnesses and human rights activists said. Among those arrested? A 10-year-old boy whose mother is a political prisoner. That somehow didn't stop people from gathering! Nor did the Assad regime's decision to fire on protesters — human rights groups say over 150 protesters have been killed, with many more arrests and detentions — and three weeks into the unrest, the protesting crowds now number over 10,000. Assad yesterday that there is "no more room for leniency or tolerance," as though his response has thus far has displayed either quality. But, you know, Asma al-Assad is "a rose in the desert" who wears couture, like, really well, and what's more, she has taste. Asma al-Assad isn't all bling-bling-y like those other wealthy Middle Eastern women Vogue is too classy to name, so...priorities! Vogue Italia's 24-page — a cover story that was published when oil was still coating the Gulf coast — was a pretty, ahem, crude way to showcase Calvin Klein Collection black satin gowns and feathered designer coats. Vogue's caption copy really took the tar ball cake, however, by pointing out the little details — like that model Kristen McMenamy "keeps her skin golden thanks to Self Tan Face Bronzing Gel Tint (to wear alone or with foundation): it takes care of the skin, while giving it a hint of color." I've parsed the long and unfortunate history of "homeless chic" — and it's true, Vogue did not originate this particular trend. But American Vogue did decide to devote several pages of its April, 2000, issue to John Galliano's controversial couture collection. Which was inspired, he said, by the people he would see sleeping under the bridges of the Seine as he took his morning jog. to child poverty in India? According to Indian Vogue, it's a $100 Fendi bib. Vogue India drew sharp criticism from anti-poverty advocacy groups when it shot a fashion story in a slum, and outfitted the "real people" models with Burberry umbrellas and $10,000 Hermes purses. "Lighten up," said editor-in-chief Priya Tanna to her critics. "You have to remember with fashion, you can't take it that seriously." You know how you can listen to "The Sad Punk" by the Pixies and basically hear everything that would happen in '90s music in three minutes flat? Well, you can look at Keira Knightley's cover spread from American Vogue's June, 2007, issue and basically see every Vogue that ever went to press under Anna Wintour. This is her magazine in an oblivious nutshell: Skinny, model-photogenic British actress, flown to the other side of the world with a team of stylists and photographers and assistants and producers and prop people and location scouts, to act out a pith-helmeted colonialist farrago and take some pictures where some nice, "colorful," but definitely clean-looking natives serve as the model-photogenic actress's backdrop. (In the case of this editorial, the location was Kenya and the natives were Masai.) And then someone thought it would be a great idea to put a Louis Vuitton blanket that costs more than three times Kenya's per-capita GDP on a baby elephant. As Knightley herself , "I've never seen anything more brilliantly stupid." 'Twas ever thus: In 1969 issue of Vogue, a model poses with gun-toting revolutionaries for an...urban guerilla warfare-themed spread. Remember, ladies: Always wear white when fomenting political unrest. And a pearl-handled pistol makes for a chic side-arm.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Milan Fashion week kicked off over the weekend and one thing is for sure: the Italians are getting sentimental over the Summer of Love. Roberto Cavalli put his favorite animal prints on tights, which were then paired with everything from long and flowing boho dresses to Mia Farrow-esque smocks. Missoni also played with this theme, with a collection that looked straight out of the wardrobe department of The Ice Storm. Burberry made homage to its hometown of London, with gold flared pants that would've made Austin Powers proud, Raf Simmons' collection for Jil Sander seemed to be one of his tightest yet, focusing on architectural coats and a muted, monochromatic color palette, and Gianfranco Ferre had an occasionally mod, occasionally rocker and very disparate collection (the entire creative department was credited, no doubt because head designer Lars Nilsson recently departed.) And then there was Giorgio Armani. Call me Cathy Horyn, but I have no idea what the fuck the guy was thinking. (See above left.) Annotated galleries of selected looks from each designer begin after the jump. Just Cavalli: Missoni: Burberry: Jil Sander: Gianfranco Ferre: Giorgio Armani: [All images via .]?Welcome back to Midweek Madness, where the stars have been busy! Angelina's plotting a vodka/pill suicide and simultaneously seducing the Depp; Taylor Swift is hooking up with John Mayer, and Reese Witherspoon's sleeping with Gerard Butler. Exhausting!?Welcome back to Midweek Madness, in which Margaret and I judge Star, In Touch, Us, Life & Style and Ok!. This week: Sandra Bullock's husband is having an affair; Jen's getting artificially inseminated and Tinsley Mortimer is a hair model!?The always refreshingly plainspoken Tim Gunn says something that probably no plus-size woman in America would disagree with: that the apparel market woefully underserves them. "Have you seen most of the plus-size sections out there? It's horrifying. Whoever's designing for plus-size doesn't get it. The entire garment needs to be reconceived. You can't just take a size 8 and make it larger," says Gunn, the former head of the fashion design program at Parsons. "I've been talking to designers, but only a half-dozen make an effort. Most say, 'I don't want a woman who's a size 10 or 11 wearing my clothes.' Well, shame on you! It's not realistic. We need to address real women with real needs. At Parsons, we had fit models that ranged in size from 2 to 10. We've got to reconceive clothes for all sizes." Gunn says that he's even thought of starting his own clothing line, just because he'd like to stick it to designers who don't want to dress women of all sizes, and he wants to "be a part of the solution." [] Ads for David Beckham's underwear collection for H&M, which goes on sale February 2, have been revealed. [] Some blogger thinks Eddie Redmayne doesn't look sexy enough in his new Burberry ads. "We can't help but think the sexy-time poses look a little forced on the Eton-educated Redmayne." Really? You can't help it? He and Cara Delevigne both look pretty damn sexy to us. [] Sadly, these Vans printed with designs from vintage Hermes scarves are not for sale. They were specially made for stylist Robert Verdi. [] Lingerie model Irina Shayk is out to prove she's a real classy broad in the new British Esquire. "I would never do Playboy. Yes, I am a lingerie model, but I have class. Playboy offered me so much money last year. I was like: ‘No. Way.'" Yes. Cindy Crawford's Herb Ritts of Playboy is nothing if not declasse. []?Good news abounds today on the page! Except for poor Emma Watson, who apparently lost her leg in a horrible accident. Hilarity ensues, after the jump. Have a good tip? We'd love to hear about it, via our tips tagpage. You can add a tip by entering a comment into the bar at the top of the page ("Let your fingers do the talking") and ending with the hashtag . Reminder: We appreciate all tips, but do make sure to leave more than just a link. As with all comments, the best tips are those that get into detail and display thought, reflection, and wit.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Tyra Banks Tweeted this photo of what she described as her "juicy muffintop." And thanks to Tyra Banks' selfless action, millions of women and girls around the world now feel better about their bodies. For good measure, the supermodel mogul included the hashtags #assmaintenance and #perfectisboring. (What is she, trying to shame perfect people now? Perfect-shaming? How are perfect Americans supposed to feel about that?) [@] Karl Lagerfeld explains the Chanel hula-hoop bag in this video. It's big because "You need space for the beach towel. And then you can put it into the sand and hang things on it." So it's a portable towel rack. Awesome. Then Lagerfeld added, "It's not up to me to say it is chic. I thought it was but I cannot say it myself." [] Jennifer Lopez's 4-year-old daughter, Emme, wore $2,410 worth of Chanel accessories to the Chanel show. Emme nonetheless looked kind of sad to be there. [] Raf Simons talks about his first Dior women's ready-to-wear collection in this video. "The main idea was about freedom," he pronounces in his stern, Belgian fashion. "But also sensuality, sexuality, the future, the modern, movement." Then he goes on to consider the coat-dress — "it's kind of like a new jacket, one could say, or it's kind of like a jacket-dress, or is it a dress, or is it a jacket coat? One cannot really say it" — for several minutes. [] Sarah Jessica Parker is on the new cover of Elle. [] This Wonderbra ad demonstrating the company's new iPhone app that allows you to scan a QR code to reveal the bra a model is wearing under her clothes is painfully awkward. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Sasha Houston Brown's open letter to Urban Outfitters regarding its use of the word "Navajo" in its product names have inspired company C.E.O. Glen Senk to fauxpologize in the comments — the company still won't confirm or deny whether it was really Senk or someone impersonating him — but it's certainly kicked up quite the media storm. Brown wrote, in part: [A]s a Native American woman, I am deeply distressed by your company's mass marketed collection of distasteful and racially demeaning apparel and decor. I take personal offense to the blatant racism and perverted cultural appropriation your store features this season as "fashion." All too often industries, sports teams and ignorant individuals legitimize racism under the guise of cultural "appreciation". There is nothing honorable or historically appreciative in selling items such as the Navajo Print Fabric Wrapped Flask, Peace Treaty Feather Necklace, Staring at Stars Skull Native Headdress T-shirt or the Navajo Hipster Panty. These and the dozens of other tacky products you are currently selling referencing Native America make a mockery of our identity and unique cultures. Brown says she called the number that "Glen T. Senk" left in the comment thread after she posted her letter, and left a message with his assistant. She hasn't heard back. "Not that I'm really surprised," she says. Meanwhile, I called Fordham University School of Law professor Susan Scafidi. Scafidi founded the Fashion Law Institute, and is an expert on intellectual-property law as it applies to the rag trade. "It's surprising that there aren't more protests," over cultural appropriation such as this, she says. "I think part of the story in this case was that the merchandise is hideously unflattering." "It's a long-standing issue, you know, and it's not just in the fashion world. It's the Jeep Cherokee. It's the Washington Redskins. And there was enormous litigation over that trademark," says Scafidi. "It's an issue when you have indigenous peoples in general or Native Americans in particular who have been subject to actual genocide, and then you come back around with what some people characterize as cultural genocide. The pillaging of land, the pillaging of personal property, followed by the pillaging of what could be considered intellectual property. It's something that occurs against a background of a lot of other offensive actions." Scafidi says Australia is among the countries that has done a better job of extending intellectual-property protections to indigenous peoples — in its case, Aboriginal tribes. "The United States has actually lagged behind a bit in the application of this kind of protection." The Federal Indian Arts And Crafts Act dates from just 1990. "I think with so many other injustices over the centuries — the loss of land, the taking away of children to 'Westernize' them, things that are truly appalling — the loss of culture wasn't recognized as quite as significant until more recently." The Indian Arts And Crafts Act makes it illegal "to offer or display for sale, or sell any art or craft product in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian or Indian Tribe or Indian arts and crafts organization." Using the name of a given tribe to claim or even imply that a product has anything to do with that tribe is punishable by fines of up to $1 million. That sounds like it should offer a pretty large measure of protection to Native American goods, right? Well, not exactly. "The story with the Indian Arts And Crafts Act, though, is that it only protects, as you would expect from the title, 'arts' and 'crafts,'" says Scafidi. "So while there is general language [in the Act] about putting the term 'Indian' or 'Native American' or the name of a particular nation on any goods in a misleading fashion, that generalized language about 'any good' is narrowed by the description of 'arts and crafts' items in particular. Which is why things like the Jeep Grand Cherokee are not barred by the Indian Arts and Crafts Act, even though Cherokee is obviously a nation as well." A car isn't a piece of art, or a craft product. And neither is a piece of clothing. Fashion is not considered an "art" (nor is a clothing design, under current law, copyrightable in the U.S.). And mass-produced items such as those Urban Outfitters sells are not really "crafts" either. In Scafidi's view, the fact that the Navajo Nation took the step of trademarking the name "Navajo" offers the tribe a much higher level of protection. That puts "Navajo" on the same footing as trademarks like "Chanel" or "Burberry." And the Navajo Nation has already warned Urban Outfitters to cease an desist from using the tribe's trademarks on its goods. "There is a trademark on 'Navajo' for clothing," says Scafidi. "It mentions specifically jeans, and tops, and shirts, and sweatshirts," along with more general categories like "sportswear." Not all of the products that Urban Outfitters is selling under the name "Navajo" are enumerated in the trademark, "but you could imagine that other similar items could fall into the category," meaning that they would also be protected from infringement. Of course, in court, "Urban Outfitters could come back and say, 'Well, if you wanted that trademark to cover panties, then you should have listed panties.'" Ultimately, it could be up to a judge to determine the fate of the Navajo Hipster Panty. As it turns out, the company has a slightly different strategy: pretending it never got the Navajo Nation cease-and-desist letter in the first place. ' PR director Ed Looram emailed me the following statement: Urban Outfitters is a trend-led lifestyle retailer dedicated to inspiring our customer with engaging product. Like many other fashion brands, we interpret trends and will continue to do so for years to come. The Native American-inspired trend and specifically the term "Navajo" have been cycling thru [sic] fashion, fine art and design for the last few years. We currently have no plans to modify or discontinue any of these products. As of this writing the Urban Outfitters brand has not been contacted by any representatives of the Navajo Nation. According to Brown, the Navajo Nation Department of Justice sent its cease-and-desist letter to Senk's office on June 30th, 2011. The letter was sent via certified mail, and proof of delivery was obtained. The existence of the cease-and-desist was first revealed on Native Appropriations, which several excerpts. Brian Lewis, an attorney for the Navajo Nation, said tonight that "the Nation is cautiously optimistic that it can discuss this issue with the Urban Outfitters Corporation and convince it to adopt another name and trademark for its products." It will be interesting to see whether the Navajo Nation decides to sue Urban Outfitters for trademark infringement. A cease-and-desist is sometimes, but not always, the prelude to a lawsuit. In a prepared statement, Lewis wrote that although the tribe "does not regard this as benign or trivial," it understands that perhaps Urban Outfitters has not yet had the opportunity to respond to its letter. "The Navajo Nation prefers the most beneficial resolution of this matter, and believes this can be achieved here with communication and appropriate actions." Any legal battle would be complex. "From my personal perspective — Navajo is a people, not a pattern," says Scafidi. Trademark protection is strong, and the Navajo Nation's trademarks are detailed. "But legally, Urban Outfitters does have a couple of defenses," says Scafidi. "In the case of the Indian Arts And Crafts Act, they might very well say, 'Look, this is not an art or a craft.' And in the case of the trademark, they might say, 'Well, on those particular products there are other trademarks that indicate the source of the good, and that we believe nobody would be confused by the word Navajo.'" Urban Outfitters could argue that it is not using "Navajo" as a name or a trademark, but as a descriptor (although that might be difficult given that the chain offers with "Navajo" in the name). "It's not a clear-cut issue," says Scafidi. Of course, Urban Outfitters could always just ditch the dubious language altogether. "Simply changing the name from 'Navajo' to 'Southwestern' would go a long way towards not trivializing an entire people," says Scafidi. And it would put the company on surer legal ground. Changing its product names would probably be a savvy move, but, for whatever reason, it is not one that Urban Outfitters seems interested in making. Earlier: ?Rumor has it that Vera Wang has moved in with the Olympic champion ice skater Evan Lysacek. The 63-year-old designer and her husband of 23 years, Arthur Becker, announced their separation last month. Lysacek, 27, apparently came to stay at Wang's Beverly Hills home around that time. (He trains at a nearby ice rink.) The exact nature of their relationship is not clear: one friend says that while Wang is "enamoured with" Lysacek, it's not romantic, another says "something is going on." Whatever sexytimes are happening or not happening, they met when Wang, herself a former competitive skater, designed some of Lysacek's uniforms. Wang is also understood to have had a facelift this summer. [] Glamour accidentally ran a three-year-old photo of Korean model Daul Kim in its August issue. Kim in Paris in 2009. "We had no idea about the backstory, and are heartbroken to learn this news," said editor Cindi Leive in a statement. [] Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is on the cover of German GQ. But the publication doesn't have an interview with the starlet, or any other exclusive content: the cover is pegged to the magazine's "tribute" to the Pirelli calendar, the annual high-fashion girlie mag put together by the tire company. Any excuse, we guess, to reprint a three-year-old topless photo of Huntington-Whiteley, who models only rarely now that she has a film career (she's off filming Mad Max 4: Fury Road right this minute, you guys!). Weirdly, German GQ left off Huntington-Whiteley's last name — and her nipple. The original photograph, seen here at left, was shot by Terry Richardson and published in the 2010 Pirelli calendar. [] Lana Del Ray's H&M campaign has leaked. The ads were shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, and a clip of the singer covering "Blue Velvet" will air as a T.V. commercial in September. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?As you probably know, Versace designed a collection for H&M which goes on sale later this week. Now, one might assume that this commercial gesture might mean that Versace is fine with, or at least resigned to, the reality that non-millionaires will soon be wearing clothing that at some point in the designing process crossed the drafting desk of someone in its atelier. You know: "real people," the traditional outcasts of the high-fashion fold. The folks who are prevented by dint of economics, body size, personal unwillingness to clad themselves in strange, sequined things with peplums, and/or all of the above, from ever darkening fashion's door. But H&M! H&M is for "real people." H&M is for everyone! H&M is bright and cheery and, at least relatively speaking, cheap. But apparently even when working with H&M, Versace has standards. The company nixed the idea of the New York Daily News photographing its H&M line on "real" New Yorkers — whom, the paper points out, were "all recent college graduates who work in the city" — and cancelled the shoot. A publicist for the clothing chain deemed only one of the Daily News's prospective real-people models acceptable. This made the Daily News angry. So rather than writing a nice story about Versace for H&M, full of nice photographs of presumably photogenic non-professional-models wearing it, it ran this bit of well-earned snark instead: Apparently, "real" doesn't work for the 56-year-old bottle-blond designer with the bee-stung lips. The H&M publicist initially explained by email that the "Model New Yorkers" photo feature could probably not go forward because Versace had to approve "anyone who wears the collection for press" — and, she added, "Donatella will likely not approve shooting the collection on real women." [...] Versace previewed her limited-edition H&M line at a party and fashion show at Pier 57 on Nov. 8. Although she used the kind of stick-thin models who don't resemble typical NYC consumers, the designer told CBSNews.com that she understood the H&M consumer. "I know this customer," she said. "I know what they want." Now if only she didn't mind them actually wearing her clothing. [] Presented without comment: today's style advice from British Vogue: "Take style inspiration from Meryl Streep, on the official poster for The Iron Lady. We are especially enjoying her use of jewels, and liberal application of lavender eyeshadow." [] Danny and David Roberts took some wonderful pictures at the recent Japan Fashion Week. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Thanks to photos taken at the Victoria's Secret show rehearsal by the New York Post, we now know what Miranda Kerr looks like wearing a be-tasseled bra encrusted with $2.5 million worth of diamonds. Turns out the squiggly lines on the bra, which was revealed on a mannequin last month, foretold a general Venus-on-the-half-shell theme, and Kerr will walk the show wearing not wings, but a big clamshell contraption made of silver gauze. The supermodel says that if her boobs are looking better than usual, it's thanks to breast milk. "It's milking time," jokes. "I'm still breast-feeding. I'm pumping, and it's going well." It's funny to think that Victoria's Secret is this highly artificial runway show celebrating spray tans and styrofoam wings and boobies and yet a breast-feeding woman is the highlight. Image at the link. [] This is a picture of Iggy Pop holding a bottle of men's perfume. Paco Rabanne would have you believe that Iggy wants you to buy the men's perfume, but those eyes tell another story. [] Some rare and never-before-seen photographs of Marilyn Monroe are going on display at Milk gallery in New York City. Included are several from the so-called Last Sitting (a photo shoot with Bert Stern that occurred six weeks before the actress's death, and from whose contact sheets — or is it just us? — Stern seems to unearth never-before-seen shots with regularity). []?Victoria's Secret is being sued for $15 million by one of its suppliers, an outfit called Zephyr Hosiery. Zephyr alleges that Victoria's Secret breached its contract by cutting deals with Zephyr's own contractors and getting them to make hosiery for VS on the cheap — but that the chain continued to promote the new, lower-quality hosiery with Zephyr's product images and packaging, and photographed Italian-made Zephyr hosiery on VS models to make the new, crappy tights seem all fancy. Zephyr also says Victoria's Secret is reneging on their current sourcing contract — and has left Zephyr with $100,000 in VS merchandise that the chain won't allow to be delivered because it wants Zephyr to sign a new contract that would give VS ownership of all Zephyr's intellectual property, including patents, and bar Zephyr from making hosiery for any other company. Maybe Victoria's Secret is actually total, capitalistic ruthlessness? [] Mariacarla Boscono appears nude and eight months pregnant in the new LOVE. It's refreshing to see a pregnant woman not in the boring old cradling-my-stomach pose. [] Ashley Smith wears shorts over tights in Forever 21's fall campaign. [] Carine Roitfeld released a video teaser for her upcoming magazine, CR Fashion Book, today. There are behind-the-scenes moments from editorial shoots, lots of footage of Roitfeld getting papped on her way to fashion shows, and we learn that the former Vogue Paris editor vouvoies with Karl Lagerfeld. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Many of you sent us the link to the New York Times story about the August issue of Vogue India, in which a woman missing teeth holds a child wearing a $100 Fendi bib. In another shot, a toothless, barefoot man holds a $200 Burberry umbrella. Another photograph shows family of three riding a motorbike, with the mother holding a Hermes Birkin bag retailing for $10,000 or more. Since much of India is incredibly poor, critics are upset that the "real people" were used as models to feature things they probably will never afford. While there were some readers who didn't find the Nylon shot of Beth Ditto offensive, or the Darjeeling Limited-esque , plenty of people are outraged by this Vogue India kerfluffle. I gotta ask: What do you expect?Columnist Kanika Gahlaut called the editorial spread "not just tacky but downright distasteful." But it's coming from a magazine which had a blonde wedged between two brown women . It's a Western-owned fashion magazine in a country that values , where is big business. But, you're thinking, when people are destitute, why photograph them holding an Hermes bag? Says Vogue India editor Priya Tanna: "Lighten up." Her argument: "You have to remember with fashion, you can't take it that seriously." The Times points out that around 456 million Indians live on less than $1.25 a day. But there is an emerging market in India; there are women who shop, love luxury brands and read magazines. So. What kind of editorial photo shoots should Vogue India have? Only the kind with , languid model indifferent to the designer duds she is sporting? Should "real" Indian people not be pictured in the magazine? Not to be jaded, but it's tough to get outraged when we live in a country where Vogue of being offensive. Fashion is about exclusivity, which means it's almost always inherently about how you, the fashionable, are "better." To be better, you must have an "other" to be better than. And so exclusivity means someone is being excluded. And Vogue has no problem shilling a — like the bib, by Fendi! — in a country where people live in poverty. True, they didn't shoot the coat on a woman from , but maybe doing so would alert readers to the fact that Ziebach County, South Dakota is the poorest county in the U.S.? In any case, the number of Americans who can afford the coat is marginal, and it doesn't matter; it's a business mired in advertiser relationships and fantasy. Most magazines have problems with "real people" and luxury goods. Even Marie Claire used a to "model" a $395 hat. It would be great if Indian Vogue, American Vogue and lots of other ladymags could figure out how to entertain women who are interested in fashion without offending, alienating or exploiting people. India has a tumultuous history of poverty, exploitation and colonialization, and a poor kid in a Fendi bib doesn't exactly help heal wounds. Maybe the real question is: Should Vogue India even exist? [NY Times] Earlier:?According to a by Reuters, people who buy three pairs of sneakers or more a year are far more likely to have the qualities of a leader. Mindset Media, a company which examines personality traits of consumers, found that "multi-sneaker buyers were 50 percent more likely to be very assertive and 47 percent more likely to be spontaneous." Unfortunately, today, from Time magazine, states that 20,000 Vietnam Nike workers are on strike. Pesky workers! Never fear, we've got some great sneaker options for you, after the jump. Metallics are still hot hot hot. Gucci Hightops, $425 [] A sleek, mature alternative to all of the loud sneakers with bells and whistkes, Stella McCartney's gym boot is part architecture, part modern art. $225 [] These sneakers may look like the Converse Charles Taylor model, but they're better, because they're Burberry! $295 [] If you plan to actually use your sneakers to work out, be sure to try a shoe from Masai Barefoot Technology, which increases thigh muscle activity by 19%. It's almost swimsuit season! $249, MBT [] And we musn't forget baby! Your sweetums may have been born with a silver spoon in her mouth, but she deserves gold on her feet! Dior baby sneakers, $175 [] [Reuters] [Time]?Last night there was a screening party for the premiere episode of The Real Housewives of New York City at Touch, a club in Midtown Manhattan which I'd otherwise not have visited were it not for the fact that all the housewives, their husbands, and (some of ) their kids were in attendance. The show airs on Bravo tonight, but I became obsessed with it after watching a 30-minute preview episode last week featuring , the couple who live in Brooklyn and shop for clothes together. I dragged videographer with me to see if we could get one of them to talk to us about their love of fashion — and we totally did! Clip above, and more on the party after the jump. Let me just put it out there right now that both Mr. Goldberg and I felt really out of place at this thing. First of all, even though I've lived in NYC for over 10 years, I know nothing about "society" beyond a couple of boldface names I've read in Page Six. Both of us were in jeans (all of the ladies were wearing dresses and we even saw one dude there in a tuxedo), and I'm pretty sure I was the only female who dared to eat anything off the cheese cube platters. Anyway, the only person I recognized in the crowd was , the Editor-in-Chief of some magazine I've never read, who appeared on an episode of The Fashionista Diaries and told one young woman that she should try not eating. The show was playing on a large screen suspended from the ceiling so that people on both the first and second floors could see. Every time one of the wives would come on-screen, people would cheer in varying degrees. Countess LuAnn de Lesseps seemed to get the biggest response, which I guess means that she's either really popular or invited the most friends. We made our way up to the second floor to see if we could find some of the cast. Goldberg noticed Alex McCord immediately, since she was wearing the $2,700 Roberto Cavalli dress that we watched her pick out in St. Barths — the one Simon said he could see her wearing to the Met. Not too long after, we saw her better half fetching a drink at the bar, in a Sgt. Pepper-y jacket he later told us he got from Burberry. Then we walked by the Countess, just as her housekeeper/right-hand man Rosanna popped up on the screen, and the Countess and her friends all yelled out, "Wooo! Rosanna!" We were standing next to her kids during a segment where she gives them a new puppy. They were really cute and talked about how good they think it came out. After the show was over, a DJ started playing generic crowd pleasers ("Kiss," "Oh What A Night," Beyonce) and housewife Ramona took to the dance floor immediately. Goldberg couldn't resist, and went out and joined her. Finally, after downing our drinks, we approached Simon, who was super nice (even though i kinda spilled his drink on his Burberry jacket). As soon as we got the footage we needed, I wanted to hightail it out of there, but Goldberg was like, "Oh, come on. We could get great stuff if we stay here and watch these people get really drunk." But the open bar was over, and I wasn't about to pay $15 for a drink, and I sure as shit wasn't about to observe drunk people while staying sober. Earlier: ?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Welcome readers! Perhaps you heard, but Jezebel is undergoing a few big changes, changes that concern ownership, personnel and content. First things first: Late yesterday, the sale of the site to Conde Nast Publications' digital media arm, CondeNet, went through, and, as of this morning, the site is no longer associated with Gawker Media, although we have yet to integrate our new advertisers into the site. With new ownership comes new editorship, of course, and, although I'm thrilled to have been named editor-in-chief of the site, I'm sorry to say that, earlier this afternoon, Anna Holmes and Dodai Stewart were released from their positions. We sincerely appreciate their many months of service, but new ideas often require new faces and that is no less true of the new Jezebel. We wish both of them the very best and know that they will feel confident that the site is in able hands.In addition to myself — more on that in a more formal, introductory post tomorrow — I'm thrilled to be able to announce the names of a few other staffers today, Christine Taylor-Wood and Eva Braunstein. Christine (she prefers to go by "Steeny") comes to us via British Vogue, where she worked in the fashion department after apprenticing at Burberry under the tutelage of Christopher Bailey for two years. She will direct our fashion coverage and liaison with our counterparts at Style.com and other Conde Nast web properties so that our readers are up on the very latest and greatest fashion news. Our second staffer, senior editor Eva Braunstein, comes to us from the world of marketing and public relations — I confess that Eva patiently proofread this post over the weekend! — where, as an independent branding and marketing consultant, she worked on the creation of cosmetics and beauty products for companies including Rimmel, L'Oreal, and Estee Lauder. Eva will be covering beauty and serving as a glamorous guinea pig of sorts as she traipses through various Manhattan spas and salons and tries out new treatments. (Lucky her!) Please welcome them to the fold. One thing we've learned today: The "blogosphere" moves fast! Since the announcement this morning, there have been rumors swirling regarding the other veteran staffers of the site. We're pleased to say that Maureen Tkacik, Theresa Egan, Jennifer Gerson and Jessica Grose, have all agreed to stay on to help us through the initial transition period. (Maureen, in particular, with her wealth of knowledge about the apparel and footwear industries, will be of great assistance to Christine.) And yes, all of our staffers, new and old, will be convening at the Conde Nast headquarters in Midtown Manhattan as the redesign of the site continues. We hope that by taking the more veteran Jezebels out of their sweatpants and small studio apartments, they will be able to express their creativity and femininity in ways we haven't seen before. (I've always felt that sloppy dressing equals sloppy thinking.) And despite what you may have heard on other blogs earlier today, they will not be getting clothing allowances, although we encourage them to take inspiration from the merch on the pages of our parent company's many beautifully-curated magazines! Now it's time to tell you about what you can expect from the new site. For starters, there will be less focus on issues that dominate the six o'clock news (isn't there a limit to how much upsetting news a person can take?) and more on what it means to be a contemporary American woman. Sure, there's an exciting presidential election going on, but those happen only once every four years; the importance of feeling beautiful is timeless. Part of the reason for the success and long lifespan of Conde Nast's stable of women's magazines is a commitment to and belief in that women need a break from their hectic, pressure-filled existences, and that beautiful photography, expert recommendations and an appreciation of fashion can help give balance to our very busy lives. Speaking of, we have lots of great things to look forward to as we set the stage for what will be the next phase of Jezebel's evolution, including Yummy Mummies (young mom makeovers), Dream Date (readers win lunch dates with the best and brightest from the worlds of fashion, entertainment and high society), Kitty Korner (pet recommendations and tips on upkeep and maintenance...we know you ladies love animals!), and, of course, reader giveaways. Ideas? Suggestions? Just want to say hello? Feel free to drop us a line*. We're thrilled to have you along for the ride. *We're still new to this blogging thing, so we ask you to bear with us until we get the technology — and the site redesign — down pat! ?Why is is so very now? The New York Times, which is always slightly behind, wants to know. Cintra Wilson as "genuinely sweet, sunny and slightly dim." Ouch! Wilson explains: This dimness, I suspect, is strategic. I've seen this before; actresses sometimes evade answering questions by obfuscating them in colorful fogs of positive nonsense. It is understandable: actual information limits the ability to be all things to all people, so vagaries protect the brand. The question, of course, is why Agyness Deyn — born Laura Hollins — is so appealing. Why is she so popular? Vogue has called her "the world's next supermodel," and she's landed campaigns for Armani, Mulberry, Reebok, Hugo Boss and Burberry. (In 2008, Glamour magazine named her among seven people "Who Will Change Your Style.") Why do people feel that a punky, lanky, androgynous, platinum blonde new wave model says "2009"? Wilson posits that it has to do with zeitgeist, and war: Models with an androgynous look often arise at times when culture is loosening its corset after a socially conservative era. During times of war, cultural trends tend to resurrect traditional gender roles, and obviously "sexy" females emerge in fashion and media imagery - e.g., breast enhancements and hair extensions. When war fever cools, hot new looks become less sex cue-dependant, and "unconventional" models - Twiggy, Erin O'Connor, Kristen McMenamy, Eve Salvail (Jean Paul Gaultier's skinhead muse) - are free to rise. Ms. Deyn's look captures a collective desire to return to the "Girls Just Want to Have Fun," pogo-punk unisex spirit of the irreverent and permissive early 1980s, when girls could wear combat boots and boys could wear eyeliner, and everyone could wear magenta. Honestly? I don't know if I'm buying any of this, though clearly the 80s have made a strong comeback in fashion, and Agyness has a retro look. But I think the fact that she has a "look" is actually part of what makes her noteworthy. Unlike some other models, who are ever-changing chameleons, when you see Agyness — and that shock of platinum hair — you always know it's her. The modeling world has been rife with a safe, bland sameness (Vogue can't even match their ), and against that backdrop, Agyness stands out. She's different. So never mind her legions of Japanese fans, her singing and DJing — isn't part of her appeal just that she is recognizable? [NY Times] Earlier: ?As we face a grueling six months before primary season for the 2008 presidential election begins, it's time to start hunkering down and examining the sad facts that help us pick our candidate. Sure, there's immigration, and social security, and the whole who opposed the Iraq war first/loudest question, but what we've always known was most important was CLOTHES. Well, clothes and grooming! Lest you think they are all dressed the same, our guide to the subtleties of the campaign sartorial code, after the jump. John Edwards: Classic high-low, the former North Carolina senator accessorizes the $400 haircut with a $10 Livestrong bracelet. Perhaps a subtle nod to "Two Americas"? The red tie indicates: "I am a political candidate." Joe Biden: Gets the whole "black suit" thing right, but the New England homespun-tie thing (are those little whales?) makes him look like a carpetbagger in N.H. since he's from, ahem, Delaware. Apparently Bills who become president — you know, like Taft! — are men of appetites, and we bet that if we look a little closer New Mexico governor Bill Richardson's tie might have some stains on it. We hear he likes ladies, and we sense he also likes chalupas, and with the black suit sealing the deal we'd vote for him on the basis of sloppy Clinton nostalgia. Or wait a minute, on the basis of sound immigration policies? Mike Gravel: Did someone forget to tell former Alaskan senator Gravel that a grumpy face doesn't go with a bright red tie? But still, nice suit! So Alaska elected a Democrat once? Chris Dodd: Setting himself apart from his fellow candidates, Dodd forgoes the classic politician blue-and-red color scheme for a black suit, white shirt, and black tie. How Lagerfeld! But wait, if we don't know who Chris Dodd is, should he really be spending his money on clothing? Dennis Kucinich does not have a chance, but he does have a really hot underage wife, who clearly accessorized him for this debate. Still, something about that suit screams "You could vote for me." Obama goes with the shiny, wide-ish baby blue tie that was a fave of Clinton before being co-opted by Bush II, which is sort of like if Sienna Miller started wearing Burberry plaid again a la circa-1997 Kate Moss. Message: Here is a candidate so "clean" and "bright" he can restore dignity not only to the Democratic Party but to the shiny blue tie! Also: The black suit says "Oval Office Material." Hillary's black suit, incidentally, also says "Oval Office Material" — even if her spruced-up makeup and highlights aren't quite enough to say "getting some in the Oval Office material." [Images via ] Earlier:? Any dedicated observer of shoe culture knows that over the last decade or so, something very strange and concerning happened to designer shoes: they got really fucking expensive. In the early 2000s, a pair of Pradas or YSLs could be had at full price for around $400. In this clip from Season 4 of Sex and the City, Carrie laments the loss of a pair of Manolos that cost $485, which is implied to be a staggering sum. $400 is pretty damn insane, but that was then: at the most recent Barneys Warehouse Sale many of the sale prices were higher than that. One struggles to name a consumer item whose price has inflated more dramatically in recent years than the designer shoe (and it's not like $400 is "cheap," as baselines go, to begin with). Basic designer pumps now often hit in the $700-$900 range. Even newer designers, like Brian Atwood and Camilla Skovgaard, feel justified in pricing some of their offerings at over $1000. Christian Louboutin's zippered will set you back nearly $1600. Anything with embellishment or exotic leather might top $2000. What. The. Fuck? First of all, no, you're not imagining things. "The observation is correct, the prices have shot up dramatically," says Daniella Vitale, chief merchant and executive vice president of Barneys New York. "We still open up at $395 in designer ballet flats" — Fendi, FYI — "and Rochas has a loafer at $395, but I would say that those are really becoming the anomaly." Barneys' average designer shoe price is now $770, a situation even the store admits is "concerning." The C.E.O. of Christian Louboutin claims his company's shoes have risen in price because the cost of raw materials has gone up by "30 to 40 per cent" in the last 18 months. George Malkemus, C.E.O. of Manolo Blahnik, says the price hikes are unwise. "When a young lady says to me, ‘I went shopping for shoes and the average price point was $900' — $900 used to be a coat," says Malkemus. "I think that people may have taken advantage of the notion that ‘It's all about accessories right now.' When [designer] ready-to-wear priced itself out of the realm of most consumers, shoes and bags were still affordable. Now, what's happened is the shoe people and the bag people sort of lost control of that, and they are scaring off a certain consumer." [] In Madonna's new song "I Don't Give A," Nicki Minaj raps, "We material girls, ain't nobody hotter, fox collar/See I really can't relate to your Volvo, and you can't get these shoes at Aldo." Which is interesting, given that Madonna's new shoe line is being by...Aldo. [YouTube, ] Marc Jacobs drew up a mock "Wanted" ad for the person(s) unknown who stole spring collection runway samples from a truck in London last year. The ad is also available on a t-shirt. [] The Prime Minister of Malaysia finally formally thanked Hansel for saving his life all those years ago. [@] Bebe — that store that sells all the super-short and super-tight and super-trashy dresses for the clerrrrb — is moving into bridal wear with a new collection of dresses (priced at $950-$2500) designed by Project Runway alumnus Rami Kashou. On Bebe's Web site, you can also buy $49 wedding flip flops and $187 sets of matching bedazzled velour sweats (pink for bridesmaids, white for the bride, natch). Women's Wear Daily notes, "According to [Bebe Stores Inc. president Emilia] Fabricant, women wear the sweats as they fix their hair and makeup prior to getting formerly [sic] dressed for the wedding ceremony." [] Burberry announced Jourdan Dunn is the newest face of its makeup collection. [@] Dakota Fanning wears a hat with a mouse on it on the cover of Wonderland magazine. []?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Essence magazine talked to Solange Knowles for its June issue, and the portion of the interview dealing with the singer/DJ/auntie-of-Blue Ivy's hair was on the natural hair blog Curly Nikki. Knowles said uncontroversial and nice-sounding things like, "I actually love my natural hair when it's in a twist out and it's been slept on for five days and revived by the steam of the shower" and offered friendly encouragement to any black woman who wanted to "go natural." Blog commenters promptly assailed Knowles for having "dry, unstyled and unshaped" hair. Several suggested she needed a twist-out to give her hair greater curl definition and to use more products for shine. "I'm going to say it," wrote one. "Natural hair can be VERY beautiful. Solange's hair is not. Even if she wore an afro, pick it out even or something. It always looks unkempt." Wrote another, "This is why people think natural hair looks bad." The thread grew long and unruly. Knowles was alerted to it via this on Twitter. She responded: I've never painted myself as a team natural vice president. I don't know the lingo and I don't sleep with a satin cap...However, I did noticed when I picked out my hair, I kept seeing feedback about needing a "twist out". Connnnfesssioonnn: I HATE twist outs. Correction, I hate the way they look on me. SO i end up always picking them/steaming them out. Look, all i'm saying is. My hair is not very important to me....so i don't encourage it to be important to you. [, , @] Maison Martin Margiela for H&M is a go. The collection will hit stores November 15. []?According to reports, Anna Wintour's team has been calling in some samples in U.S. sizes 14 and 16 — an event so unusual in our age of miniature celebrities that it merits a mention in today's Women's Wear Daily. Certain (unnamed) designers have been asked to create special outfits so Vogue will have plenty of cover options — and the word is that all the effort is for a cover that will feature Adele. This would be for Vogue's March issue, the spring fashion issue. This is newsworthy for a couple of reasons: one, it's been four years since Vogue featured a plus-size woman on its cover (Jennifer Hudson in 2007) and two, Vogue isn't even putting Adele on the Shape issue cover, it's apparently giving her a "real" cover. (Conventional ladymag wisdom is that March is the second most important issue of the year after September — which is a huge vote of confidence on the part of Vogue in Adele's salability.) It's been a good year for Adele, vocal cord issues aside: 21 is the top-selling album of the year, and she's nabbed six Grammy nominations, in addition to covers of U.S. Cosmopolitan, British Vogue, and The Gentlewoman. [] These Chanel running shoes are so hideous. And yet they cost $795-$950. [] Model Anna Speckhart hails from Pittsfield, Illinois. She says she doesn't talk much about her career with her friends when she visits. "I don't really talk about it at home. I avoid questions about it. They're really proud of me but it's awkward for me. I feel totally unrelated to my pictures sometimes," she says. Even though as a model she's under a certain amount of pressure to look stylish at castings, "I'm not going to spend $1,200 on designer gear," says Speckhart. "I'd rather work for money than trade...I'm really frugal — J.Crew is a real stretch for me." [] From the man who : there's a new Baptiste Giabiconi song trailer, y'all. (Songs have trailers now?) [] The new Prada campaign is here! As promised, it features Elise Crombez. Damn, have we missed Elise Crombez. [] H.R.H. Princess Shinyhair-upon-Tyne wore a black velvet Alexander McQueen dress to a black-tie event. [] Here's the official ad for the Hunger Games nail polish collection, Capitol Colours. It stars Elizabeth Banks in character as Effie Trinket. [] Arizona Muse, Raquel Zimmerman, Karlie Kloss, Anja Rubik, and Lara Stone were the five models who worked the most for Vogue (and all of its international editions) during 2011. Muse shot some 220 editorial pages, enough for a magazine of her own. [] Vogue's roundup of designer holiday cards is pretty cute. []?Last July, the "all black" issue of Italian Vogue hit newsstands, but as Milan kicks off this week, it's a "whiteout," says Guy Trebay of The New York Times. We noted that there were barely any on the runways in Milan . This year, writes Trebay: While Giorgio Armani notably cast some black models for his Emporio Armani show, as did Donatella Versace for hers, there was not a single black (or Asian or Latino) face to be seen on the runways at Jil Sander, Missoni, Burberry, Trussardi, Bottega Veneta, Gianfranco Ferre, Roberto Cavalli or Prada. (Armani and Versace had a few.) The crazy thing is that there's a tabloid magazine, Urban, that's being given away at the men's shows this week, and the cover line is "Black Fever." The mag's editors claim that "From politics to fashion, photography to art," black is the color. And they don't mean hue — they mean black people. Except, of course, on the runways. All of the models were white at the Gucci show, but Frida Giannini, Gucci's head designer, said: "I think it would be great if there was an industry initiative on this issue, because I am always looking for black models, or even Chinese or whatever, for the shows. I'm after a specific kind of look, and I request the agencies ? I asked last season ? to send me someone interesting. But they never send me anyone very new." And so begins the blame game: Designers and editors blame casting directors and model agencies; model agencies blame designers and editors. In fact, Trebay contacts NYC modeling agency owner George Brown, who flew several of his black models to Milan. Brown says: "They had some amazing options, options I’d never seen before on black guys," meaning some big designers put the models on hold. But: "The options fell off and we found the same line-up of white guys doing all the major shows." Of course, these are the men's shows, and not the more consequential women's wear, but we'll see what happens: Can Italian designers really look through the and not want to hire any of those ladies? [NY Times] Earlier: [Image via .]?In order to view comments on jezebel.com you need to enable JavaScript. If you are using Firefox and NoScript addon, please mark jezebel.com as trusted.?Big changes are afoot at ANTM. For Cycle 19, Tyra Banks is adding a public vote to the formula that decides who will still be in the running towards becoming America's Next Top Model. A public vote! How American Idol. Also, male model Rob Evans and stylist Johnny Wujek will be joining the judging panel — where they replace Nigel Barker and Miss Jay. Wujek apparently works with Katy Perry. Perhaps we'll see a challenge involving cupcake bras. [] Some clever clogs in Hamburg stickered H&M's controversially tan swimwear campaign starring Isabeli Fontana with what looks like Photoshop image-editing menus. [] Vice presents without comment this fashion spread of models daubed with fake period blood. How convincing do you think the fake blood is? The stuff on the tampon is definitely way too red. [] What the fuck is going on with the Photoshopping of Eniko Mihalik on this new cover of Harper's Bazaar Spain? Homegirl does not normally look like Gumby. []? Adele's forthcoming plus-sized Burberry campaign is only one of the many factors that are leading to a new eye on mass-market retailers' plus-sized clothing, which blogs have dubbed "fatshion." For years, adult-skewed women's magazines had unchanged advice for larger women: steer away from horizontal stripes and fitted clothing in order to achieve the illusion of slimness, et cetera. 15 years ago, plus-size lines were mostly made for older women, according to the director of Old Navy's online-only full-figured style store. But, as a New York-based retail consultant puts it, "This younger generation isn't interested in their rules." Torrid, Hot Topic's plus-size line, recently introduced skinny jeans to their stock and did away with Mr. Pinkerton, a canine mascot on their website that patronizingly advised customers which fashion choices were advised. The woman responsible for putting down Mr. Pinkerton is Torrid's chief executive officer Lisa Harper, who took the job last year and is dedicated to changing the attitude about plus-size fashion. These girls that we're finding are independent and have a point of view and a voice and they're becoming more bold. We've reworked the brand to refocus on fashion, pure and simple, without the apologies, without the curvy conversation, the body type or any of that. Being that the average American woman is a size 14, with plus-size consumers accounting for 67% of the population, companies are finally recognizing that there are more body types within "plus-size" to cater to. Eloquil, a brand owned by The Limited, features five distinct body types to choose from: diamond, teardrop, heart, infinity and emerald. And this demand has translated into major women's magazines as well—at least for a page or two per issue, and on their own terms. Marie Claire features a "Big Girl in a Skinny World" column and InStyle is set to run a page called "Great Style Has No Size" in October. Yes, it's kind of a paltry offering and may not be ideal in tone right away, but Nicolette Mason, the 26-year-old who pens the Marie Claire column, says that only more good things can come out of the mainstreaming of plus-size retail. Every single person with an iPhone or an Instagram account or Internet access can create a platform... It's kind of normalizing and making things more visible for the average person. [Daily Herald] Image via Paha L./?When it comes to makeovers at the movies, the rules have always been fairly straightforward: Girls get a story, while guys get . It's pretty much been that way since the dawn of the movie makeover genre, which authors Elizabeth A. Ford and Deborah C. Mitchell trace to 1942's "Now Voyager" (starring ) in their 2004 book "The Makeover in Movies."That film may not be familiar, but the story arc certainly is, and it can be found in movies ranging from the animated (1950) to the live-action "The Princess Diaries" (2001). A fashion-challenged female character is transformed, frequently with the help of a fairy godmother/guru/gay friend, into a femme fetale, discarding the thick glasses, orthopedic shoes and potato-sack dress along the way. Our heroine emerges as if from a cocoon, an exquisite feminine beauty. The male version of the movie makeover has a slightly different storyline; in this transformation, a 98-pound weakling is bitten by a radioactive spider or given a magic ring or the opportunity to step into a phone booth and materializes as a finely muscled superhero. A spectacular transformation to be sure, but wardrobe-wise their outfits usually don't amount to much more than bodystockings. Until now. This month, a pair of movies at the multiplex have traded in the cape for the clothes closet, and served up a kind of style-centric male makeover not often found on the big screen: starring and "Crazy, Stupid, Love," starring . Is it simply coincidence that the two summer films dial up the stylish side of the male makeover, or do they reflect a shift in popular culture? In "Larry Crowne," Hanks' schlubby character – who favors tucked-in polo shirts; baggy, pleated khakis, and Members Only style windbreakers – gets an extreme makeover thanks to a community college classmate who ends up putting him in tight black jeans, layered vests, shirts with embroidered detailing on the yoke, leather jackets, and, in perhaps the ultimate touch, slings a strappy messenger bag across his chest. When he makes his classroom debut in a dark, monochromatic outfit, a classmate can't resist name-checking the Man in Black. "Yo, ," he says. Likewise, Steve Carell's Cal Weaver in "Crazy, Stupid, Love," is transformed -- at the hands of Lothario Jacob Walker (played by ) – from a life of two-sizes-too-big brown corduroy blazers, billowy, horizontal striped polo shirts and pleated khakis into a slim, trim, layered-look ladies' man sporting and jackets. In one particularly fashion-focused scene, Weaver's New Balance running shoes are tossed off a balcony during a shopping trip to the Westfield Century City shopping center, and his newfound style advisor forces him to repeat the phrase: "I am better than the Gap." Although "The Makeover in Movies," was written specifically to address the way women were treated in the genre from 1942 to 2002, co-authors Mitchell (currently a professor of English & Film Studies at Westminster College in New Wilmington, Pennsylvania,) and Ford (currently professor emerita of English at Westminster), said the topic of the male makeover was one that was frequently discussed. "We didn't have to look very far to find the superhero, which is the first kind of male makeover," Mitchell said. "'s alter-ego Clark Kent has all the signifiers: the glasses, the suits that hid his physique, his bumbling awkward nature and his shyness with women." It's a physical power makeover. Mitchell thinks "Crowne" falls into a second category of men's makeover "where the goal isn't [superhero-like] power, but a kind of cool that he doesn't have to begin with. Before he's completely dorky and after he gets made over he's cooler. That happens in the 2003 movie 'The Shape of Things' where is an art student who gives dorky a makeover to turn him into a cool dude. I think she turns him in as an art project at the end." The third type of male makeover, according to Ford and Mitchell, can be found in movies as diverse as "The Bridges of Madison County" and "Avatar." "'Groundhog Day' could fit into that category as well," says Ford. "It's a movie where ['s character] is making himself over not so much physically as psychologically – he's trying to make himself over to be a better fit with his romantic partner." "Crazy, Stupid, Love" might be described as a hybrid: it begins as a seemingly superficial "quest for cool," but eventually evolves into "make be a better man" kind of makeover. Nonetheless the sheer amount of screen time devoted to the building of Weaver's new wardrobe -- the handiwork of the film's costume designer Dayna Pink, who dressed him in top-of-the-line tailored pieces from lines like Ermenegildo Zegna, Burberry, and —is one of the distinguishing characteristics of the movie.. Watch a post-makeover Cal Weaver saunter in and take a seat at the bar, sporting a dress shirt, no necktie and a perfectly fitting blue Canali blazer, with exquisite drape and the ever-so-slightest bit of shine to telegraph his new-found confidence. It's every bit as transformative as the superhero's cape – and infinitely more subtle. While Pink thinks the movie – fashion-focused makeover and all -- could just as easily have hit theaters five or even 10 summers ago, she thinks today's male movie-goers will probably be more receptive to the fashion cues than in decades past. "More men are reading about, and seem interested about what's happening in fashion," she said. "It's surprising to me how many guys will know who is, for example, and it isn't just a metrosexual thing." Mitchell and Ford think the time is ripe for more nuanced male makeover movies. "I really think we're going to start seeing more and more of the male makeover films," Mitchell said, "and not the superhero kind." Instead, they describe a transformation that hews closer to the character development of Cal Weaver in "Crazy, Stupid, Love": "A friend or a girlfriend will prompt the makeover but then the character goes on and has to reconcile the new self with the former self," Mitchell said. "The character merges these two parts of himself into a 'nicer makeover' …There's an idea now that portraying the male as a whole character, able to hurt and feel, is suddenly OK." As for what's behind that shift, Mitchell points not to Hollywood but Washington, D.C., citing Susan Jeffords' 1993 book "Hard Bodies"," which linked the proliferation of white, male, action hero movies of the '80s to the Reagan Revolution. "What comes out of Hollywood is generally tied to the political agenda of the day, and who is sitting in the ," she said. "Look at the Obama era and you start to see connections." Whether "Crazy, Stupid, Love" ultimately helps usher in a new era of the male movie makeover remains to be seen, but costume designer Dayna Pink isn't setting her hopes that high. "Hopefully there will be some guy who goes to see this movie who's wearing a horizontal-striped polo shirt that's two sizes too big," Pink says. "And when he walks out of that theater, he'll look at himself and say: 'I've got to get to .' Then I'll know I've been successful." ?Milan — THE bare ankle has become the male equivalent of cleavage — a new erogenous zone to be exposed, enhanced and framed in everything from traditional but slightly shortened cuffs to toreador pants, peg legs and clam diggers. Designers at the spring collections here used the mankle to convey a sense of a man playing by his own rules, a way of dressing down while staying dressed up and of connecting to the life aquatic. A man in a Valentino suit wants to get down to business, a sockless man in a Valentino suit wants to get down to the beach with his gin and tonic and squish sand through his toes. Lifted from "Miami Vice"-era obscurity by the likes of Thom Browne and his high-water pants, carried forward by the "manpris" (man-capris) that cropped up on the streets of New York and L.A. last summer, the bare talus is now taking center stage, and it's nigh impossible to ignore (believe me, this reporter tried). From the swinging mid-calf buckles of Emporio Armani's knickers to the in-your-face presentation of Valentino's cropped suits and Alexander McQueen's knee-length britches, the mankle stared back. And that's without taking into account the season's preoccupation with the mandal, that's man-sandal, which managed to expose even exponentially more mankle. How did it come to this? Surf has become a well-mined theme for spring, thanks in no small part to the power and influence of the multibillion-dollar action sports industry in Orange County. This season, the concept broadened into scuba and the beachside bon vivant. Instead of the usual runway show (and perhaps to switch things up to mark his 45 years in the business), Valentino opted for a tableau of nattily attired young men lounging in a tropical club atmosphere, holding drinks and occasionally glancing at a burlesque dancer with ennui. The clothes were classic with the occasional curve ball. Men in louche, 1970s double-breasted, peak-lapel jackets, pinstripes, polka-dot pocket squares and high-collared shirts chatted up fellows sporting black-and-white honeycomb jackets or crocodile-paneled cardigans (the animal skin forming a waistcoat of sorts attached to knit arms). The subtly tapered trousers were hard to miss. While they seemed to end almost imperceptibly higher than they might have a year ago, the stage was set at the perfect height to put the sockless shins at eye level with the audience. Whether intentional or not, it helps explain the designer's longevity in a constantly evolving business. Alexander McQueen drew inspiration from a LeRoy Grannis surfing photo. Taken in Hermosa Beach and featuring a young look-alike in a black suit, hat and white shirt riding a wave, the classic shot was the starting point for his Please Sur collection of surf and bad-boy pieces, shown at a local municipal swimming pool. He stocked his natatorium with ne'er-do-wells in 1950s-meets-'80s gang colors sporting all manner of polka dots and surf-inspired prints as well as peg-legged pants, clam-digger denim and shorts. Memorable pieces included a tailored photo-print blazer that perfectly captured the color and tumult of a crashing wave, a bodyboard backpack and a series of letterman jackets festooned with embroidered tigers. Where others went to the beach, Prada threw a garden party fit for the Southern California hipster. Models wearing floral and vine-print jackets and pants, bright lawn-chair checks and pajama-influenced tops rendered in either wool or silk walked a mock hedgerow maze. It was such a Silver Lake moment that one half expected to see singer-songwriter Beck turn the corner and wish the crowd a hearty "Odelay." Backstage, Miuccia Prada denied trying to send a message about global warming or the state of the environment and said she hadn't been inspired by anything in particular. "I don't start with any inspiration now; I just do work," she said. "And at the end I sit back and look at the results." She said she drew on some of her past women's designs for this season. "Men are so conservative you need to take small changes and small steps and infuse the change a little at a time." Burberry designer married action sports with military regalia, which resulted in a smart-looking regimental red neoprene trench coat, and shorts and sweaters with all manner of gold braiding and chain mail that came off looking a bit like outtakes from the cover of "Sgt. Pepper." Ankles here were hidden beneath a collection of neoprene scuba booties, which were a nice touch, but the idea of shelling out the bucks for Burberry diving gear seems farfetched. Dolce & Gabbana filled the runway with flight jackets, cargo pants with a multiplicity of zippered pockets, a Midcentury Modern camouflage print, burlap and something that looked like bandoleers filled with illuminated bullets. Even the suits, with smaller collars, skinnier ties and crisp waistcoats, had a government-issue, no-nonsense look about them. Dress shirts boasted epaulets and trousers had side-seam, belt loop and waistband contrast taping in olive drab that made the connection unmistakable. One couldn't help but think that the parade of young men in black suits with flowers in their lapels that closed the show was a nod to the fighting forces. adam.tshorn@latimes.com ?UNLIKE the closets of most style celebrities, ' coveted wardrobe is not about her turn on the red carpet or her image peering out from the cover of almost every fashion magazine. For Moss it's those moments in between all the glamour that are indeed her most glamorous ones. From paparazzi snaps of her early days in quirky baby blue Adidas shell toes with tube socks to her recent fling with beaded Versace mini-dresses and Manolos, she has fascinated both the fashion industry and the style obsessed. She's been a muse to designers including and at Burberry, photographer Mario Testino and endless wannabes on both sides of the Atlantic. Now, with enormous fanfare, Moss is releasing her own collection of clothing and accessories. With her kind of fashion clout, it could easily have been priced into the stratosphere, but instead Moss is collaborating with the British cheap-chic chain Top Shop. Once again, Moss is right in the moment. Cash or credit? Kate chose cash. The collection ranges from $20 for a cotton racer-back tank to $278 for a one-shoulder pleated dress. It went on sale last Tuesday at Top Shop in London (where shoppers are limited to five Moss items each). It hits the U.S. on Wednesday. , Barneys Co-Ops and Barneys.com will carry a pared-down selection without the accessory line. The boutique Opening Ceremony in Los Angeles and New York will carry what co-owner Humberto Leon calls "a good selection of the line," about 50 styles in all, plus bags, scarves and shoes. Leon says that his store is getting at least 20 calls daily from eager customers who want "any information on it they can." The full line will also be on sale starting Wednesday at (assuming the Brits haven't completely wiped out the stock by then). Moss' inspiration is clearly her own closet, and why not? Some of her most memorable (and notorious) moments are captured in the collection. There are skinny red jeans ($115), which are playfully reminiscent of the ones she wore in a huff, walking out of the hotel room she and had just trashed. The denim hot pants ($102) are a lot like the ones she wore with lace-up suede moccasins while swigging beer from a plastic cup at the music festival in England with current beau Pete Doherty. The collection channels her brilliant ability to do "high-low" with an injection of devil-may-care attitude. It's equal parts ingenue, vintage queen and lead groupie, shown best in striped sailor front hot pants, a black mini-dress with rectangular cutouts above the chest, and a midriff-baring lace-up vest. If you're not into showing so much skin, there are more conservative pieces such as striped gray trousers, a sweet '40s-inspired floral dress and a replica of a canary yellow one-shoulder vintage dress Moss wore to a recent magazine party, this time done in a crisp white Swiss dot. The accessories range from clutches to boots to sandals — all with her stamp of style. Red lace-up gladiator sandals and knee-high moccasin boots have a '70s flair, and a gold sequined scarf certainly channels your inner wild child. Or at least the fantasy of having your own life of jet-set days and debauched nights. And maybe that's what everyone's really lining up for: the hope that by wearing "her" clothes, we might gain the confidence to dance on a table or shrug off the paparazzi just like Kate does, with grace and, of course, style. melissa.magsaysay@latimes.com ?It's been a long-joked-about phenomenon that many Angelenos consider East Los Angeles any area east of La Brea Avenue and that some Westsiders seldom wander east of the 405. Poet and photographer Kevin McCollister has journeyed through most of those streets and captured the images in his book "East of West L.A." A few of the 55 photos include shots of Venice and the Santa Monica Pier, but "in my mind," said McCollister, "they qualify as East in spirit and are not the epitome of glam that is attached to the Westside." His version is not the cliché L.A. story, feathered with fortune and celebrity. His photos are counterintuitive as to what many people think of when they think of Los Angeles: a news vendor, the 4th Street bridge, the Los Angeles River or a homeless woman wearing a Burberry scarf. On his days off from the Writers Guild, McCollister would rise with the dawn and wander the streets, back alleys and vacant lots, absorbing the city in its raw, naked form with all its imperfections. "I wanted to show a counterbalance, another viewpoint of the city," he said. "It can be beautiful but not always in an upper-class way." And he conceived a new project: to walk all of the city's streets. Where some may see poverty and crime, the Ohio native sees light and hope. For " Morning," he encountered an abandoned, neatly folded bundle of homeless paraphernalia, perfectly wrapped like a Christmas present. "Perhaps it's because he wasn't originally from L.A. that he has this innocent fascination with this city, where most of us are car-captive and self-contained to our own neighborhoods," said Brooks Roddan, founder of the independent press If Pub, which is releasing the book, and a native Angeleno. He was intrigued by McCollister's commitment to walk all of L.A., an unfamiliar and bewildering notion to many residents. "Kevin was seeing the city with fresh eyes but with a dark sensibility," he added. McCollister attended Ohio University and arrived in Los Angeles 20 years ago via Boston. The former deck hand on the Mississippi's Delta Queen steamboat began taking photos as a modest enterprise for a photo blog in 2005 to show his brother living in Taiwan pictures of L.A., and the project grew from there. He notes poets and William Carlos Williams as the biggest influences on his craft. The project was originally conceived as a book of verse, but during the two-year period, Kevin, who lives on the east side of the Westside, began taking photos and stopped writing. "Kevin's poems are now his photographs," said Roddan. "People don't know the real wonders of this city," he added, hoping that the photos will pique people's curiosity to get out and explore other neighborhoods. As for McCollister: "This is my lifetime project," he said. "I'm going to walk all of L.A." ?There we stood, on the side of a highway on this Aegean island's wine country. We were stranded. Darkness was about to fall. I glanced at Peggy, my buddy through thick and thin. Returning a worried look, she nodded. We turned to the traffic and struck the pose: right arm out, thumb up. Cars whizzed by. Some were packed with no room for more, but solo drivers also ignored our gesticulations. Were we invisible? Surely our roadside posturing, no matter how shameless, conveyed the universal language that we needed a ride. "What do the Greeks do when they hitchhike?" I asked, shouting above the whooshing din. "How would I know?" asked Peggy, a former New Yorker who now lives in Taiwan. As the sun edged toward the horizon, our hopes and egos plummeted. Maybe Peggy's beach shorts and my flowered mini-dress, in this part of the island at this waning hour, were hurting rather than helping our cause. As befitting every good Greek tale, this one too had a deux ex machina — a seeming miracle that saved the day. Let's just say Zeus and Apollo came to our rescue. And that was how I got to see one of the prettiest sunsets in the world. Splendor in the sea I had traveled to the Cyclades more than a decade ago before. It was the summer after college, when having a good time meant hauling a backpack to such islands as Mikonos, where lads launched drunken bacchanalia at midday, French nudists paraded on beaches and drag queens ruled the dance floor. But what mesmerized me about these isles in the Aegean Sea was their splendor: glistening whitewashed buildings, meandering cobblestone streets and those times of the day when the sky and sea glowed the same velvety hue and the horizon ceased to be. It was for such moments that I returned to last August. Out of dozens of Cycladic isles, Santorini is a geological drama queen that may be the most visually spectacular. Its turbulent past is said to have inspired the legend of Atlantis. Its crescent-shaped coastline of jagged cliffs formed 3,500 years ago, after a volcano on the formerly round island exploded so cataclysmically that its center collapsed into the sea. Santorini continues to blow its top every so often, most recently in 1950. The 30-square-mile island also is prone to earthquakes. A 1956 temblor of magnitude 7.8 flattened villages, killed scores of people and caused thousands to flee for other islands. Despite the ever-present specter of another colossal disaster, Santorini and its 10,000 inhabitants are a beacon of unabashed optimism. Few could be more hopeful than the island's grape farmers, tilling and sowing year after year, despite the lack of rain. Few could be sunnier than the restaurateurs and hoteliers erecting building after building at the edge of the volcanic crater right above where the land once plunged into the sea. And few could have more faith in humanity than Santorini's sun-baked tourists, dropping heaps of euros at a time for baubles supposedly of diamonds and gold at the island's jewelry stores — which operate alongside shops selling Burberry and knockoffs. In similarly ebullient spirits, Peggy and I decided to visit the island's wineries. (Memo to snobs who pooh-pooh fermented grapes of Grecian vintage: Some Santorini wines are delicious.) ?HAVING made the transition from rural Vermont newspaper editor to West Coast style reporter, I've learned a few things about the guy's version of swapping out a seasonal wardrobe. Though the rules are subtle (in general, ditch the floral prints, cargo shorts and lighter hues before the TV networks launch their fall lineups), they're nonetheless important. Wait too long to make the switch from summer to fall and you wind up looking like Tommy Tourist on the Third Street Promenade. Back East, timing was easy. Late September usually brought the first frost -- an early-warning system signaling that sometime in the next 30 days Mother Nature would flip the thermostat from Indian summer sweat lodge to Ben & Jerry's ice cream freezer. A climate that could freeze the water in car batteries made the focus less about style and more about surviving the elements. Here, though, fall is an opportunity to display a little more personal style. It took me about eight seasons to find the rhythm, but now, when the late September Santa Anas turn the Southland into a giant convection oven, I start to put the following plan in motion. Although the contents of your closet will vary, the approach will feel about the same. Shoes Corral and quarantine the flip-flops, light-colored leather and any brightly patterned Vans slip-ons (my collection of the SoCal skate shoe includes some 30 pairs decorated with such images as palm trees and Apu from "The Simpsons"). Dust off and re-repair the black cap-toe lace-ups, brown ankle-high boots and any seasonal shoes (the Santa-skull Vans, for instance). Boat shoes? They're acceptable all year on the West Coast, and this year I'll be unboxing an autumnal-looking dark green fabric-covered pair from the Band of Outsiders Sperry collaboration. Socks Contemplate wearing them at some formal occasion in coming months. Less formal? Think argyle. Pants Although jeans are on deck year-round, fall is for black Levi's 501s and dark-washed selvage denim from Agave Denimsmith and the Stronghold. Put cargo shorts and linen trousers into hibernation mode and pull out the crisp cotton khakis. If corduroys didn't make me sound like an approaching zydeco band with every step, I'd bust them out about now. Shirts Florals and bright patterns evoke a strictly summer vibe, which means as much as you love them, it's time to send those Reyn Spooner Hawaiian shirts and Tommy Bahama camp shirts packing, along with any lighter-weight and light-colored polo shirts and all the linen, seersucker, light cotton and short-sleeve button-fronts you own. Replace them with oxford cloth dress shirts, anything in the brown/tan/earth-tone spectrum, plaids and any fall and winter polos (think darker oranges and forest greens). Suits Au revoir, light gray pinstripes and khaki-colored linen. Hello, blue herringbone tweed and green glen plaid blazers. My custom-made blue velvet blazer (which in L.A. can be worn only in a six-week window from Christmas to Groundhog Day) comes out for the holidays. Similarly, say sayonara to windbreakers and zip-front hoodies and embrace the Burberry trench and barn jacket. Whether you follow my lead, just remember: For guys the seasonal switch can be the style equivalent of daylight saving time -- a chance to spring ahead into new territory or fall back on old favorites -- except for that pair of outsized Arctic-caliber Sorel boots from back East. You can keep those buried in the mudroom of unfortunate fashion until, oh, the next Ice Age. ?June 3, 2008 Would you look at this book jacket? What was HarperCollins thinking? An old guy, with a comb-over and a gut, sitting on a chaise at the beach -- legs spread wide in his too-tight Burberry swim trunks -- skin like leather, gold chains at his neck and wrists, his mouth full of sandwich, this is supposed to be funny? Because, what, the real story isn't funny enough? Does the publisher want to pretend Bob Morris hasn't written a beautiful book? They're going to sell more copies if they insinuate vulgarity between the covers? That must be it. Because nobody in "Assisted Loving" remotely resembles this guy on the cover, certainly neither Joe Morris nor his son Bob, best known for his defunct column in the New York Times, the Age of Dissonance, in which he was arbiter and aficionado of good taste and style; the final piece, dated last November, was a paean to the thank-you card as one of "life's grace notes" and an expression of civility. In his warm, occasionally silly, deeply honest tribute to his father -- to his whole family, in fact -- Bob Morris alternates chapters about their love lives, his and his father's, to hilarious and touching effect. The story begins shortly after the 2002 death of his mother and just a few months before Joe's 80th birthday, when sons Jeff and Bob decide to throw him a party. The "boys" are uncomfortable, not to say offended, by Joe's obvious crush on Edie, his date for the evening. Isn't it too early for Dad to be thinking about romance? But not too long afterward, Joe -- in earnest about finding a partner -- starts circling ads in the personals. Because he doesn't have a land line and can't get through to the 900 exchange with his cellphone, he enlists Bob to make the follow-up calls. Joe's a catch: secure, solvent, well-preserved with a full head of hair, ready at a moment's notice with a joke or a song. On the minus side, he lives in Great Neck and he's a slob. Talks too much on his cell. Doesn't get enough exercise and tends to dribble all over the front of his shirts when he eats. Bob, meanwhile, lives in Manhattan and hankers after life in the Hamptons. Early on he explains, "My column in the paper often lampoons the pretty and privileged there, the ones . . . who look right through me and my oh-so-lackluster pedigree. They aren't nice people, they shouldn't be important to me, and yet I gravitate toward these types. . . . I wasn't cool in high school. It's alarming to think I'm still trying to make up for it now." Bob's gay -- a man who falls in love with the wrong guy every time. He's hyper-critical, a perfectionist about all things aesthetic, but endearingly self-aware. "I have more opinions than anyone I know," he admits, unable not to take aim at his father's taste in women. Joe, on the other hand, is as accepting as Bob is not. When Bob was 19, Joe let him know, unsolicited, that his life choices were OK by him. "You[r] mother and I love you no matter what," he said. It's never mattered one bit to Joe who Bobby brought home, so long as Bobby was happy. But Bob is pickier, more discriminating: If his dad must date, not just anybody will do. It all comes to a head with "Fifth Avenue Florence," a seventysomething hand-picked for Joe by Bob; a woman of means, beautifully accessorized, who -- no surprise -- makes Joe completely uncomfortable. Less than a week before , Bob joins Joe and Florence for an awkward dinner in a swank restaurant. By dessert it's clear: Bob wants to "nudge [Joe] under the table, tell him, Let her go, Dad. I was wrong. She's no good for you. You have to want who wants you, who gets you, revels in you. But who am I to give anyone advice about love?" Afterward Bob and Joe go back to Joe's place and get drunk on a sticky bottle of Manischewitz already mixed with vodka ("a little experiment," Joe calls it). They wallow and commiserate, two single guys, each of them without a date for New Year's Eve. Incredibly, at this point Bob's memoir becomes a page-turner: Will either man discover true love? Is there any such thing? "You have to stop looking for perfection, Bobby," advises his father. "That's the only way you'll find it." But it's the journey, not the destination, so the saying goes, and in pursuit of romance, this father and son get a second chance at finding each other; theirs is the resounding love affair at the center of the book. Meanwhile, on the last page, the sweetest photo of Joe and Bob, courtesy of the author. Middle-aged and long-married (to a Connecticut WASP), I'd date either of them. Heck, I'd date both at the same time. So Harper, take note, trust your own good taste, scrap this cover for the real thing when the paperback comes along. And by way of good manners, let me thank you, Bob Morris, for your heartfelt contribution to the canon of father-son memoir; an expression of civility, a grace note unto itself. Dinah Lenney is the author of "Bigger Than Life: A Murder, a Memoir." Assisted Loving True Tales of Double Dating With My Dad Bob Morris Harper: 288 pp., $24.95 ?— Who ever thought we would be looking to as the standard-bearer for good taste and pared-down sophistication? That's what it has come to here in Milan, where Fashion Week ended Friday with another S&M freak show, this time from DSquared designers Dean and Dan Catan. Between their bondage girls in leather blinders, which seemed to suggest woman as horse, and the whip-wielding dominatrixes at Dolce & Gabbana earlier in the week, one had to wonder what they're putting in the water in this city. Sure, eroticism is in the cultural spotlight, and the blinders could simply be implying that women are focused on where they are going (uh-huh), but it's absurd to suggest that anyone pay designer prices for a dress with a buckled leather harness or pumps with shiny ribbed heels resembling sex toys. You can get that stuff on Hollywood Boulevard for a steal. I guess another way of looking at these leather-bound fantasies is as expressions of aggression, which was a potent theme on the runways this week. At its tamest, it appeared as a studded leather trench and gauntlet gloves at Burberry Prorsum, a fur helmet and shiny black vinyl dress at Marni, and aviator jackets at and Max Mara. At its most barbaric, it was the shaggy, long-haired fur coats in nearly every collection, including Fendi, DSquared and the up-and-coming label 6267. They were apparently goat, though they looked more like gorilla. The toxic colors, synthetic-looking knits and aggressively weird shag coats and clutch bags at Prada were also part of this dark vision. At the opposite pole of fashion, we saw demi-couture, or clothing made using couture-like techniques, fabrics and silhouettes, such as cape backs and full volumes. Bottega Veneta's Tomas Maier crafted New Look suits with padded hips, some with raw fringe on them, while Moschino's Rosella Jardini sent out gold brocade swing coats and bubble skirts, which was too bad since the giant peace sign behind the runway raised hopes that she would have something more to say. But it was Versace who was able to distill all these themes into something between raw and refined, or something that we might actually want to wear. She worked with the same bold color statements and controlled volumes that made Raf Simons' collection for Jil Sander the week's other standout. Versace used couture techniques to achieve the bell and hourglass shapes that ran through the collection. But she was able to avoid the retro trap that Maier and others fell into by sticking to modern fabrications and a minimalist black-and-white color palette, punctuated with chemical tints she referred to in the show notes as "sulphur green, turquoise-litmus paper, and the cherry in alcohol solution." She began with a confident black suit in a technical mix of shiny and matte fabrics, shaped through the waist with subtle horsehair padding to create the perfect female form. A sleek black halter dress hugged the torso like a corset, thanks to whalebone stitching, while a zip-front tube dress referenced the sporty trend that has surfaced here. Pants were lean, topped by a fur chubby or a shiny camel satin blouse. Fall's favored embellishment, studding, was presented in a subtle enough way that you wouldn't feel cheap wearing it. Instead of using silver stud hardware on the surface, Versace inserted studs into the cloth on a tailored gray coat so that they became decorative textural pyramids. A black, off-the-shoulder column gown with a single strap cutting diagonally across the shoulders and chain details at the waist hinted at the kinkiness that has grabbed designers this season but, perhaps because its creator is a woman, did not veer into poor taste. Neither did a silver mesh sheath with tiles artfully arranged on the front, which was incredibly sexy when the model turned around to reveal a bare back. Metal mesh was incorporated into the waist of a plush ivory coat with fur cuffs, making for a nice juxtaposition of hard and soft. For evening, silk plissé gowns were sculpted to the body as if by an Italian master, one in a smoky gray shirred at the waist, another in dark plum with chains sewn underneath instead of on top. Versace may be having a minimalist, Medusa-free moment, but she hasn't given up completely on flash. One only had to look at the towering zip-front brogues on mirrored platforms and the powder puff of a white fur purse to know that. And that traffic-stopping red fox coat, hand-sculpted at the midsection, was just the kind of power piece for the new Versace woman — rich and in charge. The 1920s have been a popular reference point this season in New York at Proenza Schouler, in London at Paul Smith and here in Milan at Missoni, where skirts came in a longer length, and geometric knit dresses brought to mind Russian constructivist graphics. Of course this is a house founded on knits, so long cardigans came space-dyed in shades of mustard, maroon, beige, dusty rose and storm blue and belted over the new, longer skirts or wide, fluid pants. The belts themselves were quite something — corset-like, crosshatched strips of leather, with three fastenings in the back. Caped, chiffon dresses in painterly, pointillist prints were pretty and light. But as the show went on, it felt like everything but the kitchen sink. There was an Alaia-esque 1980s flippy skirt here, a fur bomber jacket worked with cable knit there. Missoni even had her bondage moment, wrapping silk gowns in ropes of beads. She could have used more focus, or at least an editor. The skirts were back up above the knee at Fendi, where came closer than ever to making the house a legitimate destination not just for accessories and furs but for a full complement of ready-to-wear. He focused on the waist, belting jackets or fur coats over slim miniskirts. There were no gimmicky volumes or futuristic themes, just sophisticated clothes, from a caped black leather jacket and slim skirt to a creamy white dress with full sleeves, sprinkled with hammered gold nailheads. Furs had a raw, almost tribal look, one coat with striped chinchilla on top and fox on the bottom, another in a skin resembling a Cy Twombly scribble. The sleeves of one jacket were dyed in a diamond pattern, while another came in a patchwork of leather and fur. On the accessories front, wide cartridge belts with giant jewel buckles were chic, as were half-moon clutches. One was worked with colorful python skins, another with a thicket of feathers and fur, making it resemble a pet more than a purse. Then again, what is a purse if not a pet? booth.moore@latimes.com ?He may be best known as 's other half, but David Furnish is also a filmmaker and the producer responsible for bringing the critically acclaimed musical to Broadway this month. He also happens to have a wicked fashion sense that's totally apart from John's flamboyant look. Now that the couple has an apartment in L.A., it's only fitting that Project Angel Food, the local charity that provides meals to those living with HIV/AIDS and other illnesses, would honor Furnish with the Man of Style Award at its Divine Design fundraising gala Thursday. We caught up with him for a few minutes on the phone recently to talk about his affinity for Thom Browne suits, the musical "Fame" and why he's no longer wearing denim. For more information about Divine Design (one of our favorite places to buy gifts for the holidays) and how to purchase tickets for the shopping event that continues in Beverly Hills through Dec. 8 with bargains from 3.1 Phillip Lim, Barbara Tfank, BCBG, Burberry, Diane von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, Monique Lhuillier, Tadashi and many more, go to . You've just opened "Billy Elliot" on Broadway. Do you have a good-luck piece that you wear when you have a big opening? I have around my neck a little tiny locket and it has a lock of Elton's baby hair and a picture of him as a baby. I wear it for important occasions, when I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro and on airplanes. It's a talisman of sorts that makes me feel protected, like I have got him with me all the time. What was your style like growing up in Toronto? I was in a high school drama program with Eric McCormack, who actually approached me about accepting this award. We were the "Fame" generation running around school with leg warmers on, taking dance classes. We formed a little acting company, and we had a great drama teacher who said you can wait your whole life to teach a class like ours. He fed us so much, from Pinter to Shaw to classic musicals and Shakespeare. As an adult, what was your first big splurge? Just before I moved to London, I was working in advertising, and I discovered the British high street stores [in American parlance, cheap chic stores] -- Britain has a much more defined affordable fashion culture with TopShop and the like. I remember going to NEXT in the mid- to late-1980s, and I couldn't believe I could buy all these great shoes and suits for a fraction of what you pay elsewhere. They were so beautifully cut, detailed and so cheap. Do you still shop the high street? I do. It's fun, especially if you are looking for limited shelf life items to update your wardrobe. You and Elton have very different looks, do you advise each other on clothes? He asks me to help him get dressed, and pick out which ties and shirts match, but he has his own sense of style, which is much more exuberant than mine. He can pull it off because he has that larger-than-life personality. He has all of his suits custom-made by Yohji Yamamoto, because he can find traditional tailoring quite a restriction, and he gets very hot. The Japanese work with light fabrics, and the way they cut them and weave them, he feels quite liberated wearing those. He has a stock element of Yohji shoes, Etro shirts, and he collects loads of neckties. He'll land on a color scheme and get the socks to match. And he travels with hundreds of eyeglass frames all lined up in cases -- the red, the blue. I don't know another man who can wear color like Elton does. If he collects eyeglasses, what do you collect? Tailored pieces, I suppose. I don't feel dressed unless I am in a suit. I find it an empowering thing to wear. Nothing makes you feel better or more presentable. Thom Browne's suits are beautifully cut; he pushes the envelope. He's been one of the most influential men's suit makers in the past decade, really ahead of the game. There's an irony and witticism to him. Do you wear his short pants? No, I stop at that. I don't wear the short pants or hem the trousers halfway up my calf like Thom does. I would look like a fashion victim. I like my trousers to skirt the top of the shoe. You like a slimmer cut to your suits, right? Yes, another designer who I really admire but who sadly is not working in fashion anymore is Hedi Slimane. He changed the line of suits, and he's been a friend for 10 or 11 years. I started wearing his suits when he did his first collection at YSL. And that was back when YSL menswear was associated with duty-free shops, and boringly classic. I was in Charivari in New York, and the buyer had bought Hedi's first collection for YSL. I snapped up the whole collection. It was so modern in its cut and detailing. I went along and we have been friends ever since. I still wear those pieces. ?For their Sunday wedding, and created a celebration both highly stylish and homespun.Details are pouring in from the picturesque grounds of Boone Hall plantation, the sleepy South Carolina property where Lively and Reynolds reportedly married in a low-key, private followed by a reception that boasted A-list talent."Ryan and Blake wanted the event to look and feel like home," wedding planner Tara Guerard to E! News. "With decor and live music, we all created the charm, elegance and magic of times passed." But before the party: a bridal procession that was more Parisian runway than Southern farm. Lively and her bridesmaids all wore custom , co-designed by Harvey Weinstein's wife Georgina Chapman.The bride's dress was "a hand-draped silk tulle bodice adorned with crystal and rose gold embroidery," to People. The ladies all donned custom Christian Louboutin shoes (the designer is a longtime Lively pal).For Reynolds and his groomsmen, bespoke Burberry suits with handcrafted leather suspenders from his friend and creative director of the brand, . Finally, the couple exchanged rings from jeweler to the stars Lorraine Schwartz.Wedding plans have been in motion since June at very least, when Guerard said she accompanied the couple on a venue-scouting trip. It's no surprise Boone Hall spoke to them: It was used as a location in the romantic tearjerker "The Notebook."Florence Welch performed three songs at the reception, which kicked off with a carnival themed cocktail hour. is also said to have provided music for the crowd, which included Lively's mother and sister.The couple remains on site and will depart for their honeymoon this week, Guerard said.Blake and Ryan met on the set of 2011's "The Green Lantern." He'll presumably carry his new bride across the threshold of their recently , N.Y., home upon their return. ALSO:Follow Matt Donnelly onand.Follow the Ministry of Gossip on Twitterand on Facebook.?Several news outlets reported that wore when she wed over the weekend. That would seem to be a good guess since she had been a brand ambassador of the label and a favorite of creative director Karl Lagerfeld. But not so. announced in a news release Monday afternoon that it had designed the one-of-a-kind couture ballgown, with draped bodice adorned with rose gold and crystal embroidery, and also provided the bridesmaid gowns. (Reynolds and his groomsmen reportedly wore Burberry with leather suspenders.)The wedding was put together by 's team and included a "carnival hour" as well as an elegant reception. Martha Stewart Weddings magazine will feature the nuptials on its December cover. Fashion's not always pretty and polite. In fact tensions over seating ran so high at 's New York Fashion Week show that a French fashion editor reportedly slapped the show's publicist, not to hurt her, the editor said, but to humiliate her. "Now you know you don't [mess] with French people," the editor reportedly said. Lindsay Brown, a 21-year-old soccer player from Newport Beach, will appear on the cover of Seventeen magazine's October issue, as winner of the magazine's second annual "Pretty Amazing" cover contest, co-sponsored by Neutrogena, which we earlier this year. Brown was selected, the magazine announced in a news release, because of the SEGway Project she launched to empower young women through academics and athletics -- she started a girls' soccer team in Nepal, for example, and is working to begin programs in Cambodia and Kenya. Among the four runners-up (who will also be featured in the magazine) was 18-year-old pilot Kimberly Anyadike of Los Angeles.Nicola Formichetti, one of the creative forces behind style, is reportedly working on a handbag collection for Mugler, to be debuted during in late September. plans to open a 3,500 square foot store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills next year as part of a major expansion. Hedi Slimane's first ad for the retooled YSL shows musician Christopher Owenslying on his stomachon a pillow, shirtless, revealing Owens' tattoos but no clothes. ALSO:?It felt a bit as if the British had invaded the Beverly Hills Hotel last night at a cocktail party hosted by Sir , David Furnish and Burberry's creative director who marshaled the forces in honor of British "GQ's" Hollywood issue. The mag's creative fashion director Jo Levin, said the glossy, which hits stands later this week, contains a 20-page portfolio paying tribute to actors, writers and producers that have made it big in Tinsel Town. "And we thought what better way to do that than dress them all in Burberry -- the most British of brands," she said. Among the 250 guests hobnobbing in the Polo Private Room were , Mario Testino and Saffron Burrows (all paying homage by wearing pieces from the 151-year-old clothier -- with nary a signature check between them) and "Will and Grace" actor Eric McCormack (in John Varvatos) who says he's known Furnish since his high school days. "We did musicals together in 11th and 12th grade," he said. "We haven't seen much of each other since but we have stayed in touch through other people." He told the Mirror that the real scoop was back across the pond. "You want a story? I was just at their [David and Elton's] new place in London and David's closet was this absolutely huge room. You could just take a picture of it and run that -- it wouldn't even need any words." As for the Rocket Man himself, he rocked to the beat of his own sartorial drummer with a Yohji Yamamoto pinstripe suit and purple tie (with pink spider-web embroidery) that managed to perfectly match both eyeglass lenses and pocket square.?As we edge into a new season, you'll want to change your look too, to something that reflects the hottest trends of autumn. You may want to look like Joan from "Mad Men." Or maybe an edgy or natural . All are among the faces of fall. And with some tips from the pros, the looks are easy to achieve. Celebrity hairstylist Sally Hershberger; MAC Cosmetics senior pro makeup artist Victor Cembellin; and celebrity makeup artist Taylor Babaian, author of the books "Style Eyes" and "Asian Faces: The Essential Beauty and Makeup Guide for Asian Women," share their advice. 'Mad Men' ladylike Looks like: as Betty Draper; as Joan Holloway; Beyoncé as Deena Jones in "Dreamgirls;" in "Breakfast at Tiffany's." Key elements: Coiffed, often big hair; strong, groomed brows; cat eyeliner; matte lips, sometimes in a bold color; occasional updos a la bouffant bun; natural or pink nails. Expert tip: Hershberger's take on an updated "Mad Men" look, with hair worn down: "Prep hair with a lightweight mousse/primer [such as Sally Hershberger Shagg Style Primer, $12.50] to build up volume without stickiness. Blow out with a round brush and then put the hair in hot rollers — it's really easy to do: Put three rollers on the top of the crown of the head, then one on each side behind the back of the ear, roll it down and then roll the back under. It doesn't have to be perfect. Take out the rollers, then tease the root, spray with hairspray and [let] dry. It's insane. You get the most voluminous hair you can imagine … really ladylike and pretty." Downtown/edgy Looks like: Kristen Stewart, Mary-Kate and , Taylor Momsen from "Gossip Girl," . Key elements: Moody eye shadow, a smoky eye in black, plum or even neutral shades; bedhead messy hair; dark lips. Expert tip: "Go to any drugstore and get claw/butterfly hair clips," Hershberger says. "Twirl hair with two fingers in the exact same pattern as I mentioned for the 'Mad Men' look — you only need seven of them. Again, it doesn't have to be wrapped perfectly. Do this when hair is 99% dry. Afterward, take out clips and spray on my mineral beach spray or wave spray for shine without it being greasy — it's way better than a curling iron." Glam goddess Looks like: Bianca Jagger, Beyoncé, , Giselle, , , . Key elements: Big, sexy, often wavy hair; hair that's half-up/half-down; luxe lashes; polished nails, sometimes red; glossy red lips; smoky eyes. Expert tip: For years, this look was completed with a neutral glossy lip. But this season for all-out glamour, think red. Cembellin says not only does the simple flick of a lip liner (or a pointy bow to the lip or a rounder bow on the top of the lip) change a red lip's impression, but different red shades have different personalities. A pink red could be sporty; a purply dark red, vampish. Even darker could be considered goth. A matte cherry or brick red can be "Mad Men" retro classic. "But when you add a gloss or a varnish to that same lipstick, it transforms from 1950s/'60s "to a 1980s girl," says Cembellin, referring to the sleek look of the women in the singer's "Simply Irresistible" and "Addicted to Love" videos. "I think we all associate glossy lips with a really sexy lip and it instantly has that suggestion of naughtiness to the girl." Au naturel Looks like: , Halle Berry, , the models in the new Burberry Beauty ads. Key elements: Minimal, come-hither eye makeup; primed ; tinted foundation; great skin; nude or almost nude lips. Expert tip: Cembellin calls the skin that works best with this trend "Cashmink" — skin with a luxe, warm finish. It's about contouring, highlighting your face's structure and recognizing that the skin is an actual feature. "Imagine when a woman is sitting in candlelight at a romantic dinner. It's like the candlelight hits these perfect cheekbones that we didn't know we had," Cembellin says. "She's sultry. She's sexy. But she looks effortless." Keep products neutral and honey-toned. Don't overload with eye shadow, mascara, heavy lipstick or topical glitter. "It's basically the new 2010-going-into-2011 sort of version of natural," says Cembellin, who recommends MAC Strobe Cream ($29.50) for glow. "It's this sort of surreal attention to detailed focus on the skin.... Our chief makeup artist says it's like a bunch of products to make it look like you have absolutely nothing on your skin." The individualist Looks like: , Kesha, Amber Rose, Janelle Monae. Key elements: Curly mohawk/faux hawk; shaved head; artistic makeup; a new take on graphic eyeliner; bold, sometimes -bright, hair color; futuristic ponytail; bright eye makeup; statement nails. Expert tip: "Eyeliner is back but in a new sort of artistry approach," Cembellin says. "If you think of your Lady Gagas and your Rihannas of the world, it's almost like everyone's looking for a way to take classic beauty statements and modernize them or to make them unique, funky, artistic and futuristic: double liner, ribbony thin liner, ink blot liner and all kind of new shapes." You can also be adventurous with a fun, bold eye shadow. An easy way to achieve a double-lined look is to line the top lash line with a thicker bright eye shadow such as an electric blue, then at the lash line go over that with a thinner eyeliner (such as MAC Superslick Liquid Eye Liner $17.50), perhaps in black. Alternatively, Babaian recommends simply using liner (black, eggplant or navy, for instance) on the upper lid via liquid liner, pencil or, for a more modern look, crème eyeliner. Always flick the line up at the end to avoid a droopy-eyed look. In addition to the upper liner, you can line the bottom lash line, perhaps in teal, as well. "But for an edgy look, don't connect the top and bottom lines together," Babaian says. "If you extend either line past the edge of the eyebrow, it looks more punk." ?"I'M NOT saying I'll never be with a prostitute again. But it's hard. Parts of it are soulless and parts of it are nourishing. It's always a roll of the dice." That's our always candid friend, , talking to Playboy magazine for July/August ("Massive Summer Double Issue" it says, directly above cover girl .) Charlie is Charlie. Don't try to make sense of anything he says, because mostly it doesn't. And he knows it. Is it malarkey or the real deal or some wild combination of the two, which seems to be working for him. (His new show, "Anger Management" is doing well.) Yet at least he admits to being unfair to his longtime "" co-star , in the heat of Sheen's firing. "I whaled on him unnecessarily ... he's a beautiful man and a fabulous dude and I miss him. I need to repair that relationship, and I will. I will reach out to do whatever is necessary." As for the now-legendary tale of a suitcase full of cocaine being delivered to his house, in the midst of a wild party, Sheen insists it never happened. Nope. He was watching a Dave Chappell sketch on TV and laughed so hard it gave him a hernia. The hernia did not occur because of too much partying and illegal substances. Look, that's his story and he's sticking to it. And even if he doesn't, it apparently won't make one bit of difference to the fans who support him. WHICH LEADS us to the conundrum of . Tom doesn't smoke (anything) drink, or carouse with hookers. He has never assaulted a woman or been accused of such a thing. He takes care of himself, his popularity has not waned. He is still, according to Forbes magazine, the highest paid actor in the world. And yet, on the front pages of the newspapers, Tom is the devil, scaring poor so much that she has to have a ring of bodyguards surrounding her when she ventures out. What's Tom crime? He's a control freak who belongs to the mysterious and controversial Church of Scientology. OK, maybe that's not pleasant to live with, but the public seems to find his driven personality and religious/spiritual beliefs more unsavory than anything Charlie Sheen does. I guess bad boys do, somehow, get more breaks. As for Miss Holmes, she will be fine. She's made her point, with her bodyguard photos, and the bits of business that have slipped out; her fears for Suri, etc. Nobody is going to be kidnapped or forced to do anything they don't want to do. She's been clever. I suppose she's had to be. Let's not forget, she knew exactly what she was getting into. It's not like Tom became a Scientologist during their marriage. There were plenty of warning signs. But Miss Holmes, apparently, was in love or lust or infatuated with his image and the attention he showered on her. And so it has come to this sorry state of affairs. Tom? Another hit movie and people will probably go back to shrugging off his beliefs. Next time (if there is a next time) Tom should marry a nice, docile Scientology girl with whom he can share his religion. I WAS chatting with a friend last week about how much Internet technology and computers, cellphones, iPads, etc., have taken over every part of our lives. Everything is controlled and connected it seems to one huge grid. What if everything blanked out one day, even for 24 hours? We've all become so dependant. Well, just a day or two later, the New York Times had a story about a summer storm in Virginia that took out part of Amazon's "cloud" computing service, in which hundreds of companies store data. It wasn't as bad as it could have been, and Amazon responded pretty well, but this story gave me pause. The Times reported: "The ability to deal with failures has long been a feature of any computing system, but like much else in the cloud, there are no common standards to guide how much protection against disaster is enough." We are so concerned about our borders on the ground. Perhaps we should spend more time with our heads in the clouds. That's where I think the real storm of apocalyptic nightmares stores its "data." WELL, IT's beginning to look like all the fan-whining over is evaporating as "" continues to break records even before this all-important weekend. (But then these days, every weekend is "all important.") The film, which co-stars , has, as of yesterday, made more than $35 million in the United States. In Asia, the take was more than $50 million and climbing. So he was too tall, too gawky, too British, not ? Well, whatever he is or isn't, Mr. Garfield is probably set for two more installments, and set for life financially, as well. That skin-tight Spidey suit is no fun to get into for hours on end. (And it's impossible to wear anything under it.) But in-between films, he'll be able to devote himself to more comfortable Prada, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein or Burberry. (He wears Burberry in a deep blue shade on the cover of Teen Vogue. He's paired with Miss Stone, who is supposed to be his real-life girlfriend. Well, at least until the film hits the $500 million mark.) NOW THAT has come out, will on be as much smirky, giggling fun as it has been? Oh, you know -- Anderson's friend, comedienne , would come on and tease him relentlessly, implying, but never saying, what everybody knew. They've got to cook up a new act. (E-mail at .) ?The city of Los Angeles estimates that cloth makes up about 10% of local landfills, either from discarded clothes or remnants from garment manufacturing. In addition, it takes a lot of chemicals to produce fabric. At the rate kids grow into and out of their clothes, parents might want to consider shopping at resale stores. Here is a guide to some local offerings. Blue Bird 652 Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 466-0408 This is one of the city's best upscale consignment shops for kids, with a large assortment of gently used and never-worn designer labels, including Burberry, Charlie Rocket, Deux Par Deux, Mini Boden, and Tea Collection. A small selection of children's shoes and toys is also available. Blue Bird offers sellers cash ( 30% of the sale price) or store credit (40%). Grow Kid Grow 4310 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 661-4769 You'll find a large selection of all labels at this Silver Lake resale shop, including Paul Frank, Oilily and Mini Boden as well as strollers, eco-friendly toys, gently used maternity items and designer samples. Most clothing items are priced at less than $10. Kidstock 10590 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 559-1199 This cheerful and well-appointed kid's consignment store offers a wide range of items: Old Navy rash guards, Juicy Couture diaper bags and high-end designer labels such as Monkey Wear and Oilily. Prices average 50% to 75% off original retail. Sellers receive 30% of the sale price. Alex Boutique 3012 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 315-1044 Though at first glance this family-owned resale shop is a bit chaotic, dig through the racks and you'll be rewarded with great finds for newborns to age 16 from Gymboree, Gap and Children's Place as well as toys, books and gear. Prices range from $1.29 for a Carter's onesie to $19.99 for a Baby Lulu dress. ?While some fashion brands are hunkering down to weather the economic storm, Burberry is expanding its Nova-check empire in the U.S., India, China and the Middle East. Creative director swung through the Southland last week to celebrate the reopening of the Beverly Hills and Costa Mesa stores, the first to reflect an updated retail design that places more emphasis on the high-end runway collection, called Burberry Prorsum, and accessories. We sat down for a few minutes to chat about his vision for the runway, his love of gardening and his eye for faces. Who is the Burberry woman? She's disheveled elegant, loves beautifully crafted pieces that have a sense of history or heritage, but don't feel too precious. She likes things that feel as if they have been touched by hands, instead of intimidating, scary things. In your collections, you have elevated the trench coat to an art form with feathers, leather "leaves," exotic skins and $10,000 price tags. Is there still a customer for that? Everyone has a theory on this moment, but mine instinctively is that people want something with a sense of familiarity, but something that's also special and new. No one needs a basic. But I also don't think people want anything too radical. Your spring runway show was so melancholy with its dip-dyed coats, crinkled drainpipe trousers and wrung-out knits. In fact, your collections are often melancholy. What is that about? I like things that are a little more gentle, with a bit of romance and nostalgia. Energy doesn't always have to be thumping disco and lights. Burberry is a 152-year-old brand. It's important for me to express that. Quiet luxury is as important as something opulent and screaming. What inspired the spring collection? I had been spending a lot of time in my garden in Yorkshire. I love being outside, and the idea was going back to the Earth. I wanted something that felt grounded. When you start thinking about a collection, do you start with words or pictures? It's not something tangible, it's instinctive and emotive. The way I do a collection is almost like painting. I love the subtlety of color and tone. That's what I wanted to do with those feathers in the fall collection. Everyone thinks they are exotic. They are just turkey feathers, but they are hand-painted, and they change as the light changes. ?Shortly before Daniel Hernandez moved from L.A. to Mexico to write a book about its roiling capital, a friend gave him an order. "I don't want to see you back from Mexico City until it's physically altered you, until you are different," Hernandez was told. The Western Hemisphere's largest metropolitan area, with about 22 million people, has its existential challenges: toxic air, epic traffic jams, "express" kidnappings. But it also can bestow transformative benefits on those willing to dive headfirst into its urban mosh pit. FOR THE RECORD: Daniel Hernandez: An article in the April 28 Calendar section about author-journalist Daniel Hernandez identified Hernandez as a former Los Angeles Times staff writer. Hernandez is a former Los Angeles Times staff writer and a current staff blogger and news assistant in the Times' Mexico City bureau. — During a recent L.A. visit, Hernandez spoke about how his adopted hometown since 2007 has altered him and how he hopes to alter others' perceptions of it with his just-published book, "Down & Delirious in Mexico City: The Aztec Metropolis in the Twenty-First Century" (Scribner). "I think as a journalist Mexico City pushed my barometer of crazy in my life," said Hernandez, 30, a former Los Angeles Times and L.A. Weekly staff writer. "But of course sometimes it's overwhelming and you think you're going to pass out, you need a limonada. You need a run out of town." Hernandez strives to capture that craziness with a combination of memoir, bildungsroman and an impressionistic essay-album of edgy young lives in a city that often feels perched on the precipice of chaos. Some reviewers have invoked Jack Kerouac and Bret Easton Ellis in characterizing Hernandez's first-person immersion in Mexico City's louche atmospherics. Matt Sledge of the Huffington Post wrote that "Hernandez's book tells the stories that we should know, if for no other reason than American culture is increasingly Mexican culture, as his journey makes clear." That journey, of course, is the reverse of one that thousands of Mexicans attempt every year. "The irony is not lost on me," writes Hernandez, who'll be appearing at this weekend's L.A. Times Festival of Books. "While millions of Mexicans are migrating northward, I go south. It is an act of rebellion. My parents, who left Tijuana and settled in San Diego in 1976, shake their heads in disapproval." Growing up as a bilingual, bicultural U.S. citizen, Hernandez often heard horror stories about Mexico City's crime, smog and corruption. But rather than dissuade him, they aroused a desire to get to know this off-limits part of his cultural heritage. What he found, upon arriving, was a cosmopolitan, multilayered city (pre-Columbian, colonial and modern) with a complex web of youth subcultures: emos, "anarco-punks," Condesa scenesters, rich trendy fresas from Polanco. "I just kind of went deeper and deeper," Hernandez said. "I was adopting certain aspects of the subcultures. I realized I had to not judge anyone's music or their style or their fashions but [ask] why had they adopted it, and to pinpoint what I see as the contradictions." , an English professor at Loyola Marymount University, said that countless young Mexican Americans have made the reverse-odyssey to their ancestral homeland over the decades, but few have written about it in long form with Hernandez's insightfulness. "Daniel is saying that the borders have to be crossed on all levels, including the self," said Martínez, author of "The Other Side: Notes From the New L.A., Mexico City, and Beyond." The haunts Hernandez describes in "Down & Delirious" are far from the places most tourists see. He hangs out with graying Marxists at the weekly El Chopo open-air swap meet and parties till sunrise with coked-up chilango teens and twentysomethings in the bohemian Roma neighborhood. He canvases fashion shows, gets swept up in a surging mob at a soccer match and flees an Aztec temazcal (sweat lodge), "gasping for oxygen" and deeply skeptical of whether ancient rituals can act as curatives for the ills of modern life. In surreal detail, he recounts pilgrimages to the worship halls of Mexico City's dueling spiritual icons: the beloved Virgin of Guadalupe, the country's church-sanctioned protector since she allegedly appeared to the peasant Juan Diego in 1531, and the fearsome, skeletal Santa Muerte, "Saint Death," the unofficial patron of prostitutes, crime lords and cab drivers working the graveyard shift. Some episodes in "Down & Delirious" will ring familiar to readers of Hernandez's blog, , which has a following on both sides of the border, particularly among readers 30 and younger. (Disclosure: Hernandez and I have been casual acquaintances for many years.) Just out of UC Berkeley, where he studied English literature, Hernandez first visited Mexico City in 2002 and stayed 10 weeks with relatives, an experience that "recalibrated" his life. Then in 2006, he was assigned by the L.A. Weekly to write a piece about Mexico's upcoming presidential election, which led to the contract for "Down & Delirious." Laurie Ochoa, the former L.A. Weekly editor who , said that while "Down & Delirious" touches on Mexican politics and hot-button issues like immigration, its greater achievement is to personalize the phenomenon of second- and third-generation Mexican Americans reconnecting with their cultural roots. "Through his individual story, he's telling the stories of a lot of people," Ochoa said. Although his book doesn't dwell on it, Hernandez writes with an awareness of the drug-war mayhem that has swept Mexico since late 2006 and of the toll that the country's economic and social afflictions have taken on its youth. One section deals with the curious persecution of Mexico's ambisexual "emo" youth, whose ambiguous identity aroused the wrath of other urban tribes. Perhaps the book's most affecting chapter, "A Feathered Serpent in Burberry Shades," recounts Hernandez's adventures with his late friend, the designer and "semi-androgynous party boy" Quetzalcoatl Rangel Sanchez. "You're dealing with real histories here and real traumas and real violence and real loss," Hernandez said. So how has his Mexico City sojourn physically changed him? Hernandez pointed to a pair of tattoos that he's acquired since living in Mexico: "La Libertad" (Spanish for "liberty") and another depicting a symbol for "speak," derived from a . "I'm a nerd, I'm a bookish Berkeley nerd," he said, "but living here has just flipped everything upside down for me." For now, Hernandez's plan is to keep getting flipped in Mexico City and maybe inspire other young searchers — his target audience, he hopes — to do the same. "I think it would make me most happy if it were a younger reader like that, a young reader interested in learning something about Mexico." ?It's hard to miss those paparazzi shots of celebrity toddlers being toted around by their famous parents, kids who are dressed, well, to look just like mom or dad. 's boys sport mohawks, black rocker T-shirts and baggy cargo pants like their dad ; 's daughter Honor Warren mimics her mother's frilly, feminine style; and little seems to love perusing the shoe section at just as much as does her stylish mother, . The parade of mini-me's isn't relegated to celebrities and seems to be a trend among many parents who are buying designer wear for their kids, much to the delight, no doubt, of luxury houses that have expanded to include tiny sizes. Some companies, such as , have offered children's fare for years; others, such as and , are releasing their kids' lines later this year. In the 12-month period that concluded in May 2011, sales of children's clothing in the U.S. reached $32.4 billion, and $800 million of that was spent on designer lines, according to the NPD Group Inc. Consumer Tracking Service. "People are no longer buying over-the-top homes and cars," says Marshal Cohen, chief analyst for NPD. "We did that, and that kind of backfired, but we will continue to splurge on our kids. In their minds, the best thing consumers can do is make sure their kids get all the right things and dress the part." Cohen adds that this is one reason why the children's clothing market is being infiltrated by a growing number of high-end designers and luxury brands and that the area is generally one of the last to be affected by a recession and one of the first to recover. In 2008, when the adult apparel industry dipped 5%, the sale of children's clothing dropped just 1%. "That could practically be considered growth in this market," Cohen says. The wealthy, of course, have always garbed their children in luxurious fabrics; go to any large museum and check out paintings from the last several hundred years and you'll see infants in lace; toddlers in velvet and 7-year-olds in dresses with embroidered pearls. Most families, of course, have never had that option. Nonetheless, in the last few decades, the sales of children's clothing have grown rapidly, as parents in the U.S. have upped the number of garments in the family wardrobe. Even parents who might scrimp on clothing for themselves will buy beautiful dresses and jackets for a family photo portrait or a special occasion. And options for the wealthy have multiplied in the last several years. Many luxury fashion houses (think , , , , , Dior, Burberry, and ) have a children's division, which generally includes garments designed to fit a range of ages that runs from newborn to 12 years old. Some of the designers churn out mini versions of their men's and women's ready-to-wear lines or logo heavy accessories; others merely riff on the aesthetic of their already established brand. "It is about picking the most charming and cute items, and scaling them down," says Phillip Lim, whose whimsical children's line is called Kid. "Nothing is skimped on. It's just as you'd get in the adult version — Italian fabrics, hand embroidery, only smaller. It's like 'Mommy and me.'" Versace is just joining the kids' clothing game, releasing the Young Versace line this fall. As one might expect, the style will be slightly over the top and very much in line with the glitzy look of the luxury house adult fare — Medusa heads and all. "Nothing is plain; it's very rock 'n' roll and colorful," says Gian Giacomo Ferraris, chief executive of Versace. "This is the attitude of the house. It expresses our glamorous DNA." Part of that expression includes limited-edition leather items and Swarovski-encrusted baby bottles. "We're finding that our customers are looking for very special emotional pieces with a wow factor," says Colleen Sherin, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, which carries a robust selection of designer kids lines, including Prada, Burberry and Fendi. "There's an emotional response to the items and not really any price resistance." Sherin says footwear (from brands like Prada and Gucci) gets the biggest response in the children's category on the Saks.com website and that the designer children's wear category in general is an area of growth for the retailer. "These lines have the same innovative design found in the brand's ready-to-wear collections," she says. "They've translated the look into kid's clothing, so the woman who wears these labels is going to find the children's line appealing." The price tags ($250 and higher for designer kids' shoes and around $350 to $475 for a coat) are about half that for the grown-up versions and, just as with the adult lines, the desire for having Burberry check on a collar or a Gucci horse bit detail on a ballet flat is appealing to parents with big bank accounts. "It's all about the generation of the mini-me," says Amy Tara Koch, style expert and author of "Bump It Up," a book about how to have a stylish . "They want their kids to stand out — or in the language of 'Project Runway' — to have a point of view. It's like the fashion-forward version of playing dress-up with an American Girl doll." "Especially with the first baby, people go crazy, they have no limits," says Rosie Pope, a New York maternity concierge, designer of a maternity clothing line and star of the Bravo channel's "Pregnant in Heels." "They justify the purchase in their heads. And since at 6 months, the babies start to look like little people and parents can really start to see them as an extension of themselves, it's part of the whole process of becoming a parent. It's the fun part." ?YOU DON'T have to drive 200 miles for great outlet shopping. Sure, Cabazon and Camarillo have their mallish charms. But Trina Turk, Kitson and half a dozen more outlets dwell right here in our neighborhoods, offering the same steep discounts and something closer to a boutique experience. Some of these outlets are in old warehouses and factory spaces, now filled with scores of reasonable designer dresses, shoes and bags. Other storefronts looked so much like regular boutiques -- one even had a Robertson Boulevard address -- that it felt like we'd have to pay full price. Until we saw the price tag, that is. The best discovery of all -- Trina Turk -- turned up in an industrial park in Alhambra, hidden behind a barred iron gate (no photographers allowed inside), where the merch was half-off wholesale. Nice. And think of how much we saved on gas. ALHAMBRA Trina Turk Outlet ***** You wouldn't expect to find Turk's colorful, midcentury-inspired offerings in the middle of an industrial park. But this small store, attached to the company headquarters, is a serious style score. The pretty, modern space houses dresses, tops, blazers and pants from Resort 2007 and earlier collections at an astounding 50% off wholesale. Some pieces are simple -- lots of plain structured suiting separates for $60. But Turk's trademark pop prints are still abundant. We found a blue and white floral halter dress for $60. Original prices aren't listed, but fans of Turk know her wares can run up to $400. Another score was a vintage turquoise maxi dress with geometric cutouts, a mere $50. Boxes of even cheaper gear littered the aisles, including pink-and-brown sheer chiffon flutter tops for $25 and, inexplicably, a crate of men's Haviana flip-flops for $5 each and Delman flats for $60. A range of sizes is featured, fitting rooms are comfortable and all sales are final. But you may want to keep this outlet on the down-low -- Turk and her minions aren't big on publicizing the stellar deals to be found here. 3025 W. Mission Road. (626) 458-7768, Ext. 25. Noon to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Friday and second Saturday of each month. Maria's Fashion **** For 40 years, denim doyennes have scored major deals on designer dungarees from this blink-and-you'll-miss-it discounter. Rack upon rack upon rack house jeans in every wash, cut, color and size from Blue Cult, Joe's, J Brand, Genetic, Hudson and Chip & Pepper -- most less than $100. The store lacks any and all glamour but is organized impeccably, making it easy to sift through thousands of denim choices for men and women. The staff has fit down to a science and is eager to help find the perfect pair. We found a shredded-hem denim miniskirt from Sacred Blue for a paltry $30, Blue Cult denim jackets for the same price and a pair of pool blue Hudson bell bottoms for $70. All sales are final, but rumor has it that Maria's does a mean hem for $10, making it that much easier to find your fit. Another secret: There's a discount for those who pay cash. 134 E. Valley Blvd. (626) 281-0080. 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. CULVER CITY Zepherine Designer Apparel Showroom *** If you're a fan of Inago, the sunny 3rd Street boutique, this is an address to save. Zepherine is the boutique's warehouse outlet, and the vaulted space is packed rack-to-rack with current and past season merchandise from L.A. favorites (, Rozae Nichols, Grey Ant, Miguelina) and some big names (Vivienne Westwood, Tibi, Alexander Wang). The prices aren't spectacular -- the outlet shaves an additional 10% to 25% off the last sale price, and all sales are final. But the selection is huge (new merchandise usually arrives on Thursday), the size range is decent and the staff helpful. We were tempted by one of the many jersey dresses by Issa, the British fashion darling ($224, down from $525), and to be honest, a little dismayed to find the classic Carlos Falchi bag we bought at Fred Segal not so long ago ($246, down from $587). Not the best deals ever, but then, we didn't have to share a dressing room, and that's worth a few bucks. 9500B Jefferson Blvd., Culver City; (310) 287-0687. 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Last Chance **** 1/2 This 8-year-old off-price boutique is a Culver City favorite for good reason: current and last season looks from Stella McCartney, Peter Som, Sue Stemp and Missoni under the same roof as J Brand jeans, Generra sundresses and enough accessories to fill a mall kiosk. Owner Samira Arkel sources pieces from posh boutiques all over the country and slashes prices 50% to 80% off retail. Sizes run the gamut but are more plentiful at the higher and lower ends. Among the well-organized stock, we found a pair of black brocade Lanvin flats with art deco crystal detailing ($282, from $941), a Norma Kamali for black fringe flapper dress ($189, from $465) and a '70s-style watercolor print blouson dress by Zac Posen ($259, from $1,600). When you need a break from sifting through $9 earrings and $18 cocktail rings, plush velvet couches and the latest fashion glossies await. 8712 Washington Blvd., Culver City. (310) 287-2333. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. . SILVER LAKE The Circle Indie Outlet *** 1/2 Tucked between a record store and yoga studio is this quaint shop, which carries current season samples and overruns from independent L.A. labels at 40% to 80% off retail. Expect to find pieces from Grey Ant, Jenny Han and Geren Ford in sporadic sizes. This place is bursting at the seams with looks from little-known boutique favorites that you wouldn't expect to see at an outlet store. There's only room for one shopper in between some of the racks, but patience pays off. Among items from Figment, Farron Elizabeth and Myne was a sheer blue cotton ruffle dress by Cameo ($85 from $190) and a silk racerback mini-sheath from Kate and Kass ($80 from $242), an emerging line carried at and Tracey Ross. But the mother lode was a selection of $150 leather sandals from Eastside favorite L.D. Tuttle, priced the same as the ones currently in . Come on Saturdays for the best selection of new arrivals. 2395 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles. (323) 665-5336. Noon to 7 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. ?Distilling dozens of designer collections isn't easy. But after a month-long cavalcade of fashion weeks in the style capitals of Paris, Milan, London and New York, here goes — our picks for the fall-winter 2011 season's top five trends. Caped crusaders: The newest-looking outerwear pieces for the season are capes and ponchos. There was one or the other in nearly every collection, and choices to suit nearly every mood, from sporty (Rag & Bone) to sleek () to sex kitten (). Novelty furs: Fur has been a perennial on the fall-winter runways for several years now. So this season, designers had to use it even more creatively to get our attention — on goggle straps (Wang), dickies (), cross-body bags () and even grocery carts that models wheeled down the runway (). Lace: It was the stuff of plains women at , ladylike artistes at and fetish queens at Louis Vuitton. Lace embellished everything, even the models' faces, at . Sixties rewind: There were nods to mod at , , and . And the entire collection was inspired by 1960s supermodel Jean Shrimpton. Other designers (at , and ) took midcentury couture shapes and translated them for today, using modern materials and sportswear accents. Glam : Forget the greasy hair and thrift store finds of the Kurt and Courtney days. Grunge went glam on the runways at , , , and Alexander Wang, with a long, lanky silhouette and long, loose layers of rich fabric. ?IT seems Miuccia Prada has overdosed on pretty clothes. Backstage Tuesday night, she said that her fall show was about "fake classics." And she admitted to purposefully making the most luxurious materials — alpaca, silk and leather — look, well, ugly, in an attempt to capture the eclectic style in emerging countries such as Russia and China. The result was tough to swallow after last season's glam collection of turban-wearing '40s starlets, especially with the jarring color combinations of fluorescent orange, grass green, gray and nude. These were clothes to talk about, not to wear. But let's not forget Prada was the auteur of ugly chic, long before became a do-your-own-thing fashion heroine on TV. And perhaps this collection will bring us around to that again, after so many seasons of polish. There were none of the couture-like volumes or draping techniques that have been elsewhere on the runways here during the first couple of days of shows, only linear coats and coatdresses in basic gray wool or pasty leather, some with threadbare hems and the sleeves ripped off. There were not many dresses, either, save for a few shifts with green or brown ruching at the midsection made from rivulets of satin. It brought to mind tree bark, but in a good way. Cardigan sweaters in alpaca resembled shag rugs, not so good, while other chunky knits had a pebbly texture and a lacquered look. Pants came both skinny and full, one pair with what looked for all the world like grass stains on the butt. And everything in the show was worn with cone-heeled patent leather sandals and strange toeless knee socks. Even, God forbid, the bags were aggressively weird — shaggy clutches that looked like old stuffed animals, and leather wrist bags that resembled green bugs with big bows plopped on top. It was tempting to read a cautionary environmental message into the collection, which was filled with the kind of radioactive-looking colors and faux naturalistic materials you'd expect if things keep going like says they will. But that doesn't seem to be what the designer meant to say. This was a rage against the fashion machine and an assertion that classics really are what you make of them. Elemental and ornamental Raf Simons restored our faith in good design, approaching his fall collection for Jil Sander like a poet, with each subtle design gesture calculated to speak volumes. He kept our attention rapt like no other designer so far this season with his dialogue between organic curves and linear tailoring, and managed to teach us a few things about modern dressing in the process. Take the cocooning capes that opened his show Tuesday, cut close to the body, encasing the model's arms. You might think they were silly and restrictive if you didn't notice the slits that all but disappeared into the side seams, making the garment not just a cape but a kind of multifunctional cape/coat. For the woman who works from day into night (and who doesn't these days?), an embroidered silver pencil skirt was paired with a perfectly classic navy turtleneck. How does one make a turtleneck look so exact? Simons has a gift for manipulating the most elemental design details to make them ornamental, using darts on a copper shift to echo the curves of the bust and hips, and a vertical seam instead of a slit on the side of a shiny blue pencil skirt. He lowered the buttons, making a boxy gray jacket look interesting with slim trousers, bunched gently on top of glossy, platform wedge pumps. And how much could be read into the gently curved seam placed on the front of a black column gown — a blade of grass? An S-curve? Brancusi's "Bird in Space"? He closed the show with a series of soft dresses, one in navy with fabric draped toga-like over one shoulder and left to hang from the opposite hip. And I almost wished the models would come around again, so I could notice even more. Before heading to Los Angeles this weekend to show his Privé collection, had his day in on Monday, celebrating the homecoming of his retrospective exhibition that began its world tour in 2000 at the in New York and has just now landed here at La Triennale art museum. At a morning news conference, he spoke about building an empire on Minimalism, joking that it was the easiest thing to do when starting out with no money. Strolling through the galleries, where his clothing is suspended on invisible mannequins, each one sculpted to fit its specific garment, it was amazing to see the range of his work. There were plenty of his revolutionary fluid greige pantsuits for everymen and women, but also lots of the red carpet clothes worn by , , Beyoncé, even just weeks ago at the . Swarovski is an underwriter of the show, and Armani worked with the crystal manufacturer to design a new, vaguely organic stone, which he used to the hilt on a gown that went from the museum opening to the runway later in the day. The bubble hasn't burst for the bubble skirt, according to Armani, who made the shape the foundation of his new silhouette for fall. These weren't full jack-o'-lantern sized, but slimmer, prettier versions, softly draped at the hem and worn with flats for a youthful look. Jackets came cropped and nipped at the waists, some with girlish peplums, others with butterfly-shaped embroideries, while coats in pastels were cinched with wide patent leather belts. A few glossy anoraks injected some sportiness into the collection, worn over black skinny pants. But when it came to evening, the mood shifted. A darker, bondage theme emerged on cocktail dresses, with patent leather harnesses and strange-looking removable crystal fishnet sleeves held up with garters. Perhaps Armani was inspired by Milan's raunchy spring season, which began at D&G. If so, he is too late. For their fall D&G show, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana cleaned up their act, sending out a parade of glamorous leopard-print chiffon dresses, both short and floor-sweeping. A red satin trench coat and high-waist denim shorts screamed 1940s starlet. Even the shoes were mouthwatering leopard-hair calf peep toes with red patent leather heels and pumps with gold, fan-shaped wedges, though the patent leather drawstring rucksacks looked big enough to swallow up the models carrying them. This was a decidedly more grown-up look for this secondary line, nothing revolutionary, mind you, just salable clothes, including some fabulous black velvet blazers, cut oversized to wear with skinny leopard print velvet pants or gold-dusted flared trousers. Turning away from several seasons of girl prettiness, took Burberry Prorsum to a dark and sexier place, inspired by nothing more than the brand's charging knight logo. It was a good move and should bring some badly needed cool to the brand. Coats were the star, and more sophisticated than ever, including a black quilted nylon parka cut close to the body with gold zippers and rivets lending an edge, and a quilted python puffer jacket belted over a ruched miniskirt for fall's 1980s silhouette. The signature trench was done over in studded napa leather, and anoraks in metallic nylon or leafy brocades. A gray crewneck sweater came with chain-mail sleeves, and a black silk shift dress had overlapping fringe like the scales on armor. Accessories were strong too: studded clutch bags and sandals, saddlery belts, patent leather booties and gauntlet leather gloves. Everyone's been taking a wait-and-see attitude toward Pringle, another British brand trying to make it in Milan. But for fall, Clare Waight Keller finally wowed us, sending out some of the most inventive knits of the season. The swingy, cropped gray cable sweaters we've seen before, but her using cable knit on the yoke of a gray coat and the collar and cuffs of a black silk baby doll dress was genius. Keller continued to play with the airy volumes that designers here seem set on carrying forward into fall, turning out bubble dresses in a sublime mohair knit, and in a photo-print silk that evoked hand-knit stitching. A tweed bubble skirt and matching cropped jacket made for a nice take on a suit, while the graphic precision of color-blocked cashmere layers — a tunic over a turtleneck over a miniskirt; a kimono-sleeve sweater over a miniskirt — added some artsy sophistication. booth.moore@latimes.com ?Toss the leggings and pick up a pair of boot-cut pants. Replace the bateau stripe shirt with an olive drab tee. Give the boyfriend jacket back to the boyfriend, and pick up a military jacket instead. Now that designers have shown their collections for fall in New York, Milan and Paris, department store fashion directors and boutique owners have to figure out how to translate the big ideas to the racks. Chanel's faux fur fantasy, Junya Watanabe's military march and Celine's luxe vision of minimalism were memorable on the runway, but what do they mean for a woman's wardrobe? And what about , whose untimely death cast a shadow over the season? His final runway pieces, with their ecclesiastical references and couture-like details, were extraordinary. But can the brand live on without him? Here, retailers offer their take-aways from the season, and how the trends might trickle down to you. Those from stores stocking the McQueen runway collection share their opinions on that as well. Stephanie Solomon, fashion director, Bloomingdale's Big idea: Military. It's the most pervasive and salable trend. While it's more about safari at the moment, it's going to segue into military for fall. Must haves: Olive drab anorak jacket, preferably with a fur trim hood. Shearling flight jacket as seen at Burberry Prorsum. Military jacket, nipped at the waist, with brass buttons or epaulets that can be worn as part of a suit or on its own. Boot-cut pants as seen at , Balmain and Akris. Knits — slouchy caps, blanket-sized scarves, hand warmers, knee socks and leg warmers. Fur evening bag. Will the new minimalism sell? Slowly. We've been in a cycle of more is more for seven years now. But I do believe it will influence fashion with A-line skirts, shift and pants suits becoming more popular. Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Big idea: Contrast between masculine and feminine in a 1970s, Charlie girl sort of way. Must haves: Pants, whether they be narrow, high-waisted or menswear-inspired. A feminine touch, such as a Chantilly lace blouse, something shimmery or velvet to juxtapose with the masculine. A boyfriend coat, as seen at Lanvin (it's the evolution of the boyfriend jacket). Anything olive green, for a military influence. Fur, real or fake. Vests, fur or plaid. Structured bags and pointy-toed . Will the new minimalism sell? It's the newest message and it's happening for fall, but we'll see more of it going into spring 2011. McQueen's final collection: It was spectacular. McQueen's tailoring and dressmaking skills were so superlative; he challenged everyone at every moment. We didn't buy all 15 of his final pieces, but we bought some. Beyond a designer leaving this world, he left behind a sewing team and a design team. It's a business, and I assume they will move it forward. Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue Big idea: Outerwear and building a coat wardrobe for every aspect of your lifestyle and every time of day. Coats are pieces you can get a lot of use from because you can wear them day after day like a handbag. Must haves: A coat (anorak as seen at Rag & Bone, duffel coat as seen at Proenza Schouler, embroidered shearling as seen at Roberto Cavalli or a camel coat as seen everywhere). A new knit piece, whether it be Fair Isle, patchwork or a lighter-weight knit such as the lace knit turtleneck seen at . A fur accessory such as a bag, shoe, bootie or shawl collar. Will the new minimalism sell? For a certain woman interested in investment dressing, luxurious fabrications and tailoring. McQueen's final collection: It was the highlight of the season, like couture. We ordered all 15 pieces, which range from $12,000 to $50,000. The commercial collection in the showroom was very solid too. I am confident they have a strong team in place to carry on the tradition. Julie Gilhart, fashion director, Big idea: Less is more — less about ornamentation and more about a designed silhouette in terms of great tailoring, and heavier or more structured fabrics to create shape, as seen at Celine and Stella McCartney. Must haves: Army green jacket as seen at Junya Watanabe. Anything leather as seen at Altuzarra. A leopard or cheetah print accent (Dries Van Noten had great scarves and Rochas had flat boots). An amazing sweater, such as Stella McCartney's camel-colored cardigan. Fringe — Rodarte had knitted fringe skirts. A tote bag from Celine or Proenza Schouler and a lace-up shoe boot. Will the new minimalism sell? Yes, the pieces we bought are beautifully cut in fabrics that can be worn year-round. I think a woman who is stylish will take a Celine tunic and put a great necklace or bangle with it or an amazing pair of boots and create her own look. Elyse Walker, owner, Elyse Walker boutique in Pacific Palisades Big idea: Girlishness as seen at Nina Ricci, Valentino, Miu Miu and Stella McCartney. Must haves: A fur from J. Mendel, Prada, Blumarine, Isabel marant or Wyler Designs by Jennifer Fisher, which looks like a lot for the money. I ordered 50 to 70 furs for a store that's a mile from the beach. But it gets cold at night, and it's a fashion statement that will be in every ad and editorial. Fur trims on sweaters (Brunello Cucinelli) and scarves (Gucci). (We will have faux fur as well.) A little bit of lace (Alexander Wang dresses with lace insets). A little bit of leather (time to invest in a pair of leather leggings if you haven't already). A touch of burgundy or bordeaux, as seen at Halston and Givenchy. Lanvin also has a great pair of bordeaux ballet flats with a rhinestone bow. Camilla Skovgaard shoes, a Stella McCartney vegan handbag and a Miu Miu turnlock belt to accessorize a plain black dress. Will the new minimalism sell? I don't see it. ?If you listen to the folks doing the marketing and leasing for Santa Monica Place, the new mall is designed to attract tourists, yes, but mostly locals — or super-svelte, yoga-loving, $200 jeans enthusiasts. That's what the area's "psychographics," or values, tell them. People working behind the scenes at the mall talk about yoga as though it's the secret code word for entry into the community. Yoga classes could be held on the upper deck of the mall overlooking the ocean, one executive suggested, or in the Bloomingdale's b-Style Bar, where stylists stand at the ready to help you shop. (Because stylists are apparently another thing we West Coasters are into.) Developers are even trying to re-create the weekly feel-good food-grazing ritual so popular in these parts by putting a faux farmer's market on the third-level dining deck, with independently owned purveyors of cheese, bread and chocolate. (It will open later this year.) In many ways, Santa Monica Place is a reversal of the last decade's global retail approach, which gave us cookie-cutter commerce from Caesars Palace in Las Vegas to the Ginza in Tokyo. Now that you can shop for anything online, retailers have to give shoppers a reason to leave the house. So they are striving to create more localized, community-oriented experiences. And it appears to be working, at least for , which earlier this month reported a 4.9% uptick in second-quarter same-store sales over the same period last year, following a new strategy of tailoring its merchandise assortment to individual stores' customer preferences. Many of Santa Monica Place's tenants are brands based in California. There's a Joe's Jeans store, which has mannequins floating in a marvelous glass aquarium full of stuffed animals. And a BCBG boutique — one of the nicest I've seen — that has an open, airy space with cottage-like wood floors and judicious merchandising that really elevates the clothes. Skechers opened its first store devoted solely to Shape-Up shoes, those heinous curve-soled clodhoppers that make you feel like you're walking on a balance board. Who knew there were so many styles? Resistance-training Shape-Ups, all-terrain Shape-Ups, Shape-Up sandals, Mary Janes and flip-flops. Kids' Shape-Ups. But alas, no yoga Shape-Ups. (If you prefer to actually train instead of tone, there's a store next door.) Kitson, the L.A.-centric chainlet made famous by and her paparazzi-baiting ilk, may have landed its best location yet — at the crossroads of the mall and the Third Street Promenade. How could a tourist en route to the pier pass up a kitschy piece of paradise such as the book "Stupid in California" or a tumbler that reads, "Bring the Jet Around"? The second level of the mall is a sea of allowance-friendly teen indulgences, beginning with the store Love Culture. Started by two former employees of Forever 21, this is the kind of place where you score -shape sunglasses and "I Love My Boyfriend" T-shirts. Across the way, Charlotte Russe has had a makeover in an apparent effort to become more competitive with Forever 21. (Think $22 sparkly Breton-stripe sweaters and a $22.50 riff on a quilted Chanel bag done in gray sweatshirt material.) Even the mall's non-California-based tenants seem to have taken into account Santa Monica's easygoing lifestyle. The Burberry store only sells the luxury brand's sporty Brit collection, which is heavy on denim and casual shirts. Bloomingdale's, which seems to be following the localized strategy of parent company Macy's, has a wall of flip-flops as you enter and an array of men's Vilebrequin swim trunks, even though in the retail world, we're already well past summer and careening into fall. With just 81,000 square feet of selling space, this Bloomingdale's is a department store that feels like anything but. It doesn't carry children's, petites or high-end designer clothing, but it does have lots of those long, drapey cardigans that wears, by Vince, Joie and Elizabeth & James. The décor is different too. Instead of city slicker references to the Bloomingdale's mother ship on 59th Street in Manhattan, a sign over the door leading to the mall says, "This way to the beach." There are jeans for every bottom at Santa Monica Place. "Spiral fit" at All Saints Spitalfields, cargo fit by Current / Elliott at Barneys Co-Op, "soft and raw" by Acne at Bloomingdale's. But if you don't fancy a wardrobe in blue, your options could be limited. There are some dressier togs at Hugo Boss and / Black Market (which, by the way, isn't all black-and-white). And Tory Burch and Nordstrom open later this month. Still, at a time when shopping can often seem like too much of everything and a whole lot of nothing, it's refreshing to see a mall with a point of view. And if you are a yoga lover living in Santa Monica, you might feel like they've rolled out the mat just for you. booth.moore@latimes.com?This fall, fashion is a bit schizophrenic. On one hand, you have "Mad Men" beauties in retro full skirts, tight sweaters and kitten heels. On the other hand, you have "Mad Max" beasties in cargo pants, shaggy fur vests, animal prints and tough-looking boots. Getting the ladylike look can be expensive. ( Authentic Louis Vuitton crocodile bow pumps alone will set you back more than $1,000.) But the military-inspired "Mad Max" look, with its arsenal of affordable trends, is made for the mall, where what's in stores now has never looked better. A lot of the credit goes to "mid-tier" designer labels — including Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, Elizabeth & James, and Joie — whose prices range from about $195 to $895. They represent the most dynamic segment of the designer market right now because they offer so much style for the price. The new Nordstrom store in Santa Monica Place opened with Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim shop-in-shops — not Burberry and Faconnable, as they might have in the old days. Still, since these brands are not too widely distributed, there's an air of exclusivity about them; you have to be in the know. Specialty retailers are on a roll too, with Loft, Express and Gap offering more fashion-relevant collections than ever. ( set the bar high in that regard.) Department stores have also upped their game with exclusive private-label wear and partnerships. In stores now, for instance, are Spanish fast-fashion chain Mango's MNG line for JCPenney, and indie design darling Vena Cava's collection for Bloomingdale's private-label Aqua. "Everyone is in the fashion game, and everyone is in it at a lower price," says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for market research firm NPD Group. "Designers and retailers have to separate from the competition, from and . So they are trying to give consumers more reasons to shop, to visit and to celebrate — more reasons to buy any product." There is a lot to lure shoppers, and much of it is really wearable. Jeans are still America's uniform, but if there is one thing that will instantly update your wardrobe for fall, it's a pair of cargo pants. Current/Elliot's skinny cargos ($248) are the chicest out there, but you can also get the look at Loft with the "Marisa" slim cargo pants ($59.50) or at your local Army Navy store, where the MOC military-surplus version is just $36 and has ties at the ankles to cinch pants up over heels. Of course, there's much more to the military look. One of the best anoraks is Joie's "Pendleton" style ($358), because the subtle sheen and refined details, such as three-quarter-length rolled sleeves with buttoned tabs and a waist that can be cinched, make it versatile enough for indoor and outdoor wear. The newest-looking shirt this season is a button-down with uniform-style flap pockets. Express has them for $69.95 in 13 colors. Sequins are here to stay too, as long as they are juxtaposed with an edgy piece. Try Nanette Lepore's long-sleeve army green and gold sequin "Muse" top ($348) with cargo pants and a pair of lug-soled boots. There are so many cool boots for fall that fashion director Ken Downing is promoting the idea of a "boot wardrobe." You could start with Loft's paratrooper-style "Lindi" buckle suede booties ($128), J. Crew's MacAlister desert wedges ($198) or Cynthia Vincent's "Wiley" clog boots ($325). Knitwear is another perennial fall favorite, but this season, it's not about prim and pretty; it's about knits with attitude, like Aqua's slashed cashmere crewneck ($168), H&M's black crewneck with silver chain trim at the collar and chest pocket ($39.95), and Gap's ribbed knit military cardigan ($69.50) with epaulets and brass buttons. Joie's knit poncho sweater ($274) hits two trends in one — knitwear and ponchos. Two more double-duty pieces: Phillip Lim's crisp white cape-shirt ($326) and H&M's cape-trench coat ($59.95). When it comes to outerwear, Chanel's save-the-polar-bears runway show proved that fake fur is as stylish as the real thing, if not more so. Juicy Couture's cropped faux fur vest ($228) with a ribbon-tie is a feminine take on the beastie look, while Forever 21's shaggy pale peach faux lamb version ($19.80) is pure fun. Another tough-girl topper is Ann Taylor's faux leather asymmetrical zip moto-jacket ($178), which is soft enough to pass for the real thing. Continuing the walk on the wild side, MNG at JCPenney's spotted silk print blouse with a twisted neckline ($63.92) reads animal print, only more sophisticated. A black-and-white print Rachel Pally Dina dress ($220) taps into the feather trend in a grown-up way. That dress has an ankle-length skirt, which is a welcome alternative for many buyers. Because to wear Robert Rodriguez's Robbi & Nikki black turkey feather miniskirt ($264), you gotta have some great legs. Like in her "Mad Max" days. booth.moore@latimes.com?-- continued its China blitz Tuesday, announcing that it would join the country's increasingly competitive luxury-car segment by introducing Lincoln automobiles to the Chinese market by 2014. The announcement comes a day after Ford broke ground on its sixth factory in China, a $600-million plant in the southwestern city of Chongqing, and revealed that it had won initial regulatory approval to free itself from a local joint venture to manufacture cars with Mazda. The developments allow the Dearborn, Mich., automaker to ramp up its ambitious expansion plans in China in an all-out effort to catch up with its far more popular foreign rivals, Volkswagen and "Lincoln is an important part of our plan, and introducing Lincoln in China marks the next step in our expansion in Asia and our commitment to serving customers in the luxury market," said Ford CEO Alan Mulally, who is touring China. Ford is a latecomer to China but has committed about $5 billion since 2006 to build factories, grow its vehicle lineup and expand its dealership network in the world's second-largest economy. Ford now sells an array of compact vehicles, sedans, SUVs and vans in China. Sales hit just over half a million units last year. Passenger vehicle sales have grown 7% this year, according to LMC Automotive, about 2% below the industry-wide rate of expansion. With the introduction of Lincoln, the company hopes to tap a consumer segment that has been wildly successful for Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz. The three German automakers combine for almost 80% of the luxury-car market. Unlike those brands, which manufacture in China, Ford will import the still-to-be-released Lincolns when they're officially launched here in the second half of 2014. A new Lincoln MKZ sedan is to be launched in the U.S. this year, part of a revitalization plan to introduce several new vehicles to the brand's lineup. Ford said it's considering the needs of Chinese consumers in designing the new Lincoln vehicles. The company consulted luxury fashion labels Prada and Burberry because of their experience with rich. Spacious rear seats were deemed a must as luxury-car owners in China tend to be chauffeured. The company is also betting Lincoln's nearly 100-year-old history (one that includes many presidential limousines) will resonate in a country that prizes heritage brands. "We have a chance to be different here," said Jim Farley, Ford's head of global marketing, "different from the Germans, the Asian brands, the other American brands, Cadillac. It’s a perfect time for Lincoln to come here because our DNA is different from all the other choices customers have." Ford estimates that luxury-car sales in China will more than double to 2.7 million units by 2020, surpassing the U.S. as the world's top market. As a whole, China posted auto sales of 18.5 million last year, compared with 12.8 million in the U.S. The strength of Chinese luxury auto sales today belies an industry-wide slowdown triggered by over-capacity, China's weakening economic growth and stricter car-ownership restrictions in some of the country's most congested cities, such as Beijing. "The issue of over-capacity has really not affected the high end of the pyramid," said Bill Russo, president of the Synergistics auto consultancy in Beijing and Chrysler's former chief in China. Still, Russo warned that Lincoln would have to find a way to stand out and justify its potentially hefty price tag with engineering performance and interior features. "The degree of difficulty will be high," Russo said. "You have a very established set of competitors in a market with Chinese consumers who already equate luxury with a certain portfolio. Getting them to recognize Lincoln is going to be the main challenge." Michael Dunne, the Indonesia-based head of auto consulting firm Dunne & Co., said Lincoln may benefit from being a new market entrant, especially at a time when Chinese car buyers may be looking for their second set of wheels. "The Chinese like differentiation, something fresh and new," Dunne said. "Land Rover has done well in the SUV segment by essentially just being different. Mainly it's image. Someone might say, 'You have an Audi? Half my friends already have an Audi. I have a Lincoln now.'" ALSO: ?It turns out America still makes something.That would be: hipsters. And the numbers say the world can’t get enough of 'em.According to Google search data examined by the Los Angeles Times, global searches for “hipster” and “hipster”-related topics are soaring toward an all-time high in 2012. Worldwide, searches have tripled in the last three years with no signs of slowing. This despite the fact that barely anybody knows what a “hipster” is. Hipsters started out as a mostly white, mostly urban, mostly obscure-music-listening, vintage-clothes-wearing youth subculture. Now they seem to be something else. (More on that later.)Nonetheless, we can safely say, using math, that the vague concept of “hipsters” has officially become a rock-solid item of mainstream fixation.Google Trends data isn’t exactly scientific — hipster searches don’t necessarily equal hipsterdom. But because the U.S. Census doesn’t seem to count youths who drink Pabst Blue Ribbon beer and ride vintage bikes as a distinct type of person, stats from the popular search giant don’t seem a bad place to start.And what those stats suggest is that the top five American hipster-infatuated cities over the last year — adjusted for population — have been Portland, Ore., Austin, Texas, Minneapolis, San Francisco and San Diego.These figures also suggest that the United States is no longer the hipster capital of the world. “Hipster” searches are steadily and rapidly increasing month by month all over the globe, with surpassing the United States over the last 12 months and with Chile in a close third place.There are more hipsters in the news than ever, and reporters have recently gone hipster-spotting in and .But perhaps most revealingly, what these stats suggest is that American interest in hipsters has stopped growing. For the first time since 2009, domestic interest has leveled out, leaving us to ask: Has America finally reached peak hipster?A lot of people hope so. Even four years ago, informed cultural observers were calling hipstersHave hipsters ended Western Civilization? They have not. Not yet, anyway.What is a ‘hipster’?“The and in New York, Capitol Hill in Seattle, Silver Lake in L.A., the Inner Mission in San Francisco: This is where the contemporary hipster first flourished,” wrote n+1 editor Mark Greif in , explaining the phenomenon’s origins in the late ‘90s. “Over the years, there developed such a thing as a hipster style and range of art and finally, by extension, something like a characteristic attitude and Weltanschauung,” or worldview.The common thinking among people who study “hipsters” is that the term tends to say less than people think; one of the notable things about hipsters has been their historical reluctance to self-identify.“I like doing a lot of the things that are the hipster thing to do, but I do them because I like to do them, not because they're the cool thing to do,” a young woman told sociologists during a recent on hipsters. “And because I am immersed in the social scene where there are a lot of hipsters, people mistake me for being one of them."Clarity-wise, the term hasn’t been helped by its mainstream hijacking by popular media. The New York Times’ resident grammarian, Philip Corbett, the paper for using the term more than 250 times in 2010, apparently willy-nilly.The Los Angeles Times too has done its part, writing about , , , , , , the and .But New York magazine's Greif was insistent that hipsterdom is a very real thing and not just another buzzword. It described “an air of knowing about exclusive things before anyone else” when hipsters popped up in 1999, Greif wrote. “The new young strangers acted, as people said then, ‘hipper than thou.’ ”They did this by buying old clothes and listening to weird bands nobody else had heard of, but which served as a kind of secret password among their friends to signify that they were members of an exclusive club.?THE YOUNG woman, who called herself Cindy, was telling me about her class in Marxist philosophy at Second Foreign Language University. We were sitting in a teahouse across the street from the Malls at Oriental Plaza, a mind-blowing swatch of the future that epitomizes a part — perhaps the more decadent part — of Chinese capitalism, and so I couldn't help but ask: Wasn't there a bit of a contradiction between the philosophy she was learning and the world outside her classroom walls? No, she said, it's just that Marxist philosophy "is very difficult for me to understand." You and me both, Cindy. A couple of hours at a Chinese mall will do that to anybody. China is emerging as the world's new mall superpower. The South China Mall in the southern city of Dongguan is said to be the largest on the planet, eclipsing Beijing's claimant to the title, the Golden Resources Mall (nicknamed the "Great Mall of China"). It is estimated that by 2010, seven of the world's 10 largest malls will be in China. It's as if a billion-plus Chinese are suddenly making up for decades of lost consumerism. The Malls at Oriental Plaza, a short walk from Tiananmen Square in the center of Beijing, is neither the largest nor the busiest. But it is certainly among the most eye-popping. It's hard to think of a mall in Southern California that wouldn't look dowdy next to it because of its sleek, postmodern design, international restaurants and stores — not just Levi and , not just Tiffany and Swarovski, not just Paul Smith, Burberry and Valentino, but a Volkswagen showroom (including the Phaeton, the luxury car yanked from the U.S. market) and an Audi showroom, where dangling, flat-panel computer screens offer specs for each car. I ate at a restaurant called "My Humble House," which was humble in the way that is humble, in the way that Las Vegas is humble. The food was terrific. Cindy scammed me. A pink-wrapped sparkplug who stood barely higher than my elbow, she had approached me at the mall and said she was an English student who needed to practice her language with a foreigner. She brought me to the teahouse, where we were gouged, presumably with a portion kicked back to her. It's an old con. The truth is, I didn't much care. She had pluck and also some smart ideas. She said she had little use for the Malls at Oriental Plaza because it wasn't "the real China." Look, she said, nobody's buying anything except at the restaurants. That seemed pretty close to the truth — I'd seen a lot of looking but not a lot of people with packages. "They're just window shopping," she said. As we parted, she gave me an e-mail address and said to contact her if I needed a guide around Beijing. Then she said: "Sorry. Thank you. Bye-bye." Like Marx in China, the mall had been difficult to comprehend. Cindy, I got.?If you're coming to Washington for the inauguration, pack some sturdy shoes, a heavy coat, a powerful pair of binoculars, a cartload of patience -- and your platinum credit card. President-elect will not take the oath of office until next month, but already he's boosting the economy in the capital region. With record crowds expected to pack the National Mall on Jan. 20, hotels are marketing inaugural packages -- ranging from $50,000 to $200,000 -- replete with chauffeurs and gourmet meals. Then there's the homeowner in suburban Maryland offering to rent an "inaugural sleeper sofa" for $250 a night. Or the $65-a-night cabins without running water at the Harpers Ferry KOA Campground in West Virginia, 66 miles from Washington. "I'm making sure that people fully understand that they have to take a hike to the shower house," said Dale Brechlin, the campground manager. The inauguration of the 44th president has sparked a flurry of logistical planning by the Presidential Inaugural Committee, the Joint Congressional Committee on Inaugural Ceremonies, the Armed Forces Inaugural Committee and the District of Columbia, not to mention restaurants, hotels, tuxedo and limousine rentals, and other enterprises. Officials are calculating how many portable toilets to plant on the Mall -- which for the first time during an inauguration will be open from the Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial -- as well as what to do with all the buses bringing visitors to the city. For those arriving by private jet, the National Business Aviation Assn. has warned of likely "parking challenges" at regional airports. "You can expect airports to be packed like a parking lot on Black Friday," said Dug Garrett, a veteran of the air charter business. Obama will take his oath on a platform being built on the west steps of the Capitol. He will deliver his inaugural address, have lunch inside the Capitol, then ride in a 1.5-mile parade down Pennsylvania Avenue to a reviewing stand in front of the . The crowd is expected to surpass the record 1.5 million who turned out for 's 1965 inauguration. Tickets to the swearing-in are being kept in a secret, high-security location. Sen. (D-Calif.), who is chairing the congressional inaugural committee, has introduced legislation to make it a federal crime to scalp or counterfeit inaugural tickets. Congressional offices and the Presidential Inaugural Committee distribute the tickets for free, but demand has been so great that many offices stopped taking requests within a week of election day. Illinois Sen. Richard J. Durbin's office has received 14,200 requests for about 400 tickets. Feinstein's office has fielded 40,000 requests. One person on offered to swap his tickets. Others are random-dialing congressional offices. "People would pick up the phone and start calling congressmen, and guess whose name is first. We had all kinds of new friends," David Helfert, an aide to (D-Hawaii), said of the inquiries the office received. For those without tickets, there's standing-room-only viewing on the Mall, which could involve watching the swearing-in on television screens that will be stationed as far away as the Lincoln Memorial -- two miles from the Capitol steps. Meanwhile, record crowds and sardine-can conditions are expected on the Washington subway system, which will have rush-hour service from 4 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Inauguration Day. "We are preparing for the fact that many of our trains could very well be filled to capacity by the time they reach the downtown core of the city," said Steven Taubenkibel of the Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority, which is cashing in on Obama-mania with commemorative fare cards. The District of Columbia is trying to accommodate crowds by lifting regulations that typically block homeowners from renting out rooms. The city also will allow bars and nightclubs to stay open 24 hours a day from Jan. 17 through 20 and serve drinks until 5 a.m. ?Fashion jewelry design is in the midst of a renaissance the likes of which we haven't seen since the 1980s. And Alexis Bittar blazed the trail. In the last two decades, the New York-based jewelry designer has gone from selling his signature colorful, hand-carved Lucite pieces on the streets of to bejeweling leading ladies in Hollywood and beyond, including First Lady , , , and . At the same time, he's managed to keep the core of his collection in an accessible $225-to-$645 price range. Bittar has also challenged the definition of fashion muse by eschewing prepubescent models in his ad campaigns in favor of women, such as eccentric octogenarian Iris Apfel, diva and, most recently, "Ab Fab" stars and . And now, with a recent influx of cash from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners, Bittar is ready to expand his vision globally and to introduce a new, higher-priced line of jewelry in sterling silver and gold that will debut next year. He's already one of the most prolific jewelry designers in the business, turning out hundreds of pieces each season that incorporate innovative materials such as molten metals, reconstituted coal and Lucite, which was big in the 1950s and is currently having another moment in fashion but which Bittar has built his brand on since the beginning. For spring's O'Keeffe collection of bold, Southwestern-looking Lucite cuff bracelets and collars, he took cues from the artist's skulls and Native American textiles, then layered on Art Deco-ish crystals. Another spring group, Dark Garden, features Lucite beaded necklaces and carved floral brooches with crystal-encrusted thorns, movable blooms and pollen pods. The younger sister collection of the family, named Miss Havisham, includes "man-made druzy quartz" cocktail rings carved from crushed glass embedded in resin. It's no wonder that art museum shops caught onto his talents first, followed soon after by high-end boutiques and department stores, including , Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale's. "[Alexis] is responsible for elevating the status of costume jewelry and making it a category that is taken much more seriously in fashion," says Brooke Jaffe, fashion accessories director of Bloomingdale's. "He draws in a broad range of customers." He understands the need for one-of-a-kind fantasy pieces for photo shoots, as well as commercial pieces for women's everyday lives. "Most designers get one or the other but not both," she adds. Along the way, Bittar has created spikey Lucite masks, floor-length necklaces and oversized cross earrings, for the likes of Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Madonna. His work has been shown on the covers of countless magazines, including Vogue, V and W. He's also collaborated on jewelry design with other brands, including Burberry, and Jeremy Scott. Bittar "has a design intelligence," says stylist and costume designer Arianne Phillips, who has known him for eight years. "No matter what he chose to do, whether it was design a car or clothes, he'd be capable of it." Phillips relies on Bittar to create custom pieces for magazine spreads, music videos and films (he made several pieces for "W.E."). The more classic pieces she wears herself, including crystal-studded Lucite bracelets and pyramid studs. "He created a niche that opened the door for so many other people," she says, pointing to the new class of cool, young jewelry designers that has emerged in recent years, including Pamela Love, Eddie Borgo and Justin Giunta of Subversive. Michelle Obama has worn several Lucite brooches by Bittar as well as statement pieces by other brands in his league, including Erickson Beamon and Tom Binns. She has undoubtedly helped put the spotlight on fashion jewelry (and taught women to take risks when wearing it). But Bittar says business has really been on the upswing for the last 12 years. "When I started in the early 1990s, jewelry was at a real low point," Bittar, 43, said recently over coffee at his showroom in Soho, which is a wonderland of glass cases full of jewelry, a rustic wood table, antique mirror, bird cage and taxidermy ferret — and not far from where he used to work as a street vendor when he was in his 20s. "It was the age of minimalism. People didn't know how to wear jewelry, or they were brainwashed that it wasn't cool. Now, that's completely changed. What is selling are the most artistic pieces, the more interesting the better." Bittar has been nurturing a love of jewelry since he was a child growing up in Brooklyn. On his 13th birthday, his parents, who bought and sold antiques, gave him a tangled mess of jewelry as a gift. He started playing with it, and he was hooked. When he was in his late teens, he bought a box of vintage chandelier parts from the 1920s, all made of Depression-era glass with handmade brass and wire tassels. He started making and selling his own pieces from a table he set up on the corner of Prince and Greene streets. What hit it big were colorful Lucite button earrings. "I was looking at a lot of Lalique and Bakelite," Bittar explained. "I was obsessed with clear plastic sheets of acrylic and saw a way of manipulating them, carving them and hand-painting them." Today, Lucite is 60% of his business. Everything is still handmade, only at his factory in Brooklyn, which employs some 250 artisans, instead of on his kitchen table. "When jewelry first started trending in 1999, there was such a naivete in terms of what was tasteful," Bittar said. "You could just put a big pendant with a string on it and people would buy it. But now, the sophistication and expectation is higher. People are increasingly wanting to be more individual, and part of that has been driven by the celebration of individual style on blogs." Individual style is something that Bittar has a particular appreciation for, as seen in the subjects of his recent ad campaigns, Joan Collins and Joanna Lumley among them. "When you look at the models in fashion magazines, it's one young girl after another," Bittar said. "I find it disturbing. That's not who is buying [fashion]. And I feel like there's a message that if you are not young, you're not beautiful. "I don't want to get typecast for doing this," he said. "But I'm like a kid in a candy store. And I think it's a cool political message." Bittar opened his first namesake boutique in 2004. Now he has seven, including three in New York and two in the Los Angeles area. He's looking forward to two more by the end of 2012, now that he has a new business partner to help. And he's not ruling out launching a few new product categories either. (Home furnishings, perhaps?) But first up next year, he'll debut a still-unnamed, higher-priced jewelry line. "I already design three collections, but I live and breathe jewelry, and I have forever." Indeed, Bittar has amassed such a large personal collection of antique jewelry (which he lovingly discusses on his blog at AlexisBittar.com) that he's started selling it in his boutiques. "I used to hoard it and keep it rolled up in an old quilt. But now I buy and sell it. On my birthday, on my day off, I go buy antique jewelry. There's nothing I would rather do." ? showed off a new tattoo Monday on Twitter. The 18-year-old singer posted a shirtless picture displaying his new ink: a tattoo of a crown on his right chest. Cool tat Biebs, now what's with the hair and that pained face? is doing some sartorial damage control after a sharp-eyed shopper spotted a mistake on one of their printed sports shirts. The shirts read Houston Texans 1961 champions. The correct team name is the Houston Oilers and the big game was an AFL title. This isn't the first T-shirt blooper from the retailer. Just last year the store had to recall shirts that read "Lets Go" missing the apostrophe. Whoops. Sexy yoga anyone? Last year when Equinox yoga instructor Briohny Smyth was featured in her underwear doing yoga in an Equinox video, it went viral. Equinox is following up the first steamy production with another of Briohny and her fiance in sexy poses together in a new video. The Cut has a first look at the second installment. The British Fashion Award nominees were named Monday evening at the Savoy Hotel in London. , , Burberry, and more received nods. There are 11 award categories including an emerging talent award and red carpet award. wowed her Twitter followers yet again after posting a picture of herself in rainbow, tribal print pants, combat boots and a sheer white blouse with a very visible bra underneath. The Mrs. Liam Hemsworth to-be is still rocking the platinum blond pixie cut she debuted on Twitter a couple weeks ago. What do you think of Cyrus' exposed lingerie look? ALSO: Follow Jenn Harris on or?WHEN Samantha Meiler shops for her son, she has a very specific look in mind: designer jeans, velour track suits, L.A.M.B. sneakers, a sporty-urban vibe. "My son's style is very Kingston," she says, referring to and 's boy. "I make no qualms about it. I see pictures of Kingston and I say, 'I want that outfit for my son.' " Of course, lil' Rossdale is still a toddler, and Meiler's son is just 21 months old. But they're part of a growing set of pint-sized fashion plates, wearing shrunken-down versions of trendy adult clothes. In the last few years, the obsession with dressing little kids like Dogtown skaters, Malibu moms and even socialites has hit a new, Suri-high level. More clothing companies than ever are producing what the rag trade refers to as mini-me clothes on every price level. Marquee American designers, such as Phillip Lim and Marc Jacobs, are turning out Lilliputian renditions of clothes that sail down the runway each season. European design houses that have a long tradition of producing children's clothes are paying more attention to their kids wear lines. Instead of just churning out jumpers in Burberry checks or Missoni waves, they're making children's clothes that look like grown-up togs in teeny-tiny sizes. So naturally, the fast-fashion folk have followed suit: H&M and Zara are turning out mini-me looks for kids of all sizes. Lim's new collection for girls, Kid by Phillip Lim, mirrors his ready-to-wear line almost down to the pleat. "It's the first time a line has been so literally inspired by the adult collection," says Tracy Edwards, a vice president at , which carries the collection. "It's fresh and so current to what was happening in adult fashion." For fall, Lim is offering structural pea coats, tunic dresses with massive bows, pleated and cuffed shorts and belted sweaters, for $55 to $325. "With this generation of new-age baby boomers, even though they have a kid now, they still have a specific aesthetic," Lim says, "and it relates to their whole life -- the type of car they drive, the shoes they wear. I was thinking that when they dress their child, they want something tasteful, something fun and interesting." In L.A. there are still a few popular stores stocking traditional, expensive children's lines like Oilily and Pampolino, but most have transformed into emporiums for freakishly small adult apparel. And while women's national apparel sales have followed the economy downward, kids' clothing sales have dipped less profoundly, according to retail research company NDP Group. And sales for infant-toddler clothes are the only clothing sector that's significantly up, from $14.7 million in March and April 2007 to $15.3 million in the same period this year. At Pumpkinheads in Brentwood, which stocks diminutive True Religion and J Brand jeans and Splendid tees, sales are up 12% so far this year. "I think the luxury market is almost unaffected by the economy," owner Jamara Ghalayini says. "Also with the gas prices and the economy, it seems like people are traveling less, so have more money to spend on their kids." Lisa Kline, who owns four boutiques and one kids' store, said sales at her kids' store are outpacing the others. (Everything she buys, including Chip & Pepper jeans and C&C California tees, is a shrunken-down version of looks you might see wandering up and down Robertson Boulevard -- sans the triple-shot latte). Kline added that her sales staff uses celebrity kids mania as a selling tool, pointing out which Kingsley shirt Maddox Jolie-Pitt was recently seen in, etc. "People care about that stuff," she says. Clearly. In focus groups conducted by celebrity tabloid Life & Style Weekly, Meiler said, readers are always riveted by celebrity offspring and what they're wearing. "Kingston is the most popular boy," she said. "These kids are setting trends without even knowing it. 's daughter Lourdes is a total fashion diva, and Maddox is like the forefather of celebrity kids' fashion." People magazine even bought a recently that chronicles the scintillating lives and looks of Bluebell Halliwell ('s 2-year-old daughter) and Honor Marie Warren (the daughter of and Cash Warren is only 2 weeks old, but already a tabloid sensation), among others. The media coverage has "just created a bigger push and demand for shrunken-down adult clothing," said Serge Azria, designer for contemporary women's line Joie, which recently debuted kids' and tween collections that sell at Barneys New York and Lisa Kline Kids. "Kids are getting more informed these days about what labels that their favorite celebrities wear, and want to emulate their favorite role model," Azria says. These tots may not be moving $3,000 Balenciaga bags, but after 's chubby-cheeked daughter Suri, who was recently fitted for a pair of custom Christian Louboutin shoes, was seen in a belted Burberry dress, the house's signature nova check plaid started popping up on kids all over L.A. Eugenia Ulasewicz, president of Burberry in the Americas, couldn't gauge the Suri effect, but overall she characterizes kids' sales as "very strong." And it might be naive to think that Suri and her pocket-sized pals, including the Beckham boys, aren't at least partially responsible. After decades of licensing out its children's lines, Burberry is progressively bringing these collections in-house. "Where we did have children's clothes, we saw there was a real customer appetite for our product," Ulasewicz says. "When you saw adult versions done in children's versions, the consumers were embracing what we did." The company recently assembled a design team for children's clothes and opened its first kids'-only store in March in Hong Kong, with two more locations in the Middle East and the U.S. planned by the end of this year. Up to 30% of the looks will be influenced directly by the runway, Ulasewicz says, with the rest inspired by the brand's classic, outerwear-driven collection. But what rational person pays $180 for a Burberry shirtdress or $150 for a Little Marc (Marc Jacobs) swing coat for a human being still working out how to twist the cap on a bottle of Elmer's? Sure, there are christenings and special events that justify a special purchase, but for some -- even some with money to burn -- buying duds that cost more than dinner at Mr. Chow smacks of wastefulness. Ali Froley, a mother of two young children who runs the Los Angeles office of the public relations firm Bismarck Phillips Communications & Media, said buying expensive clothes that mimic adult fashion "is a waste of money and I think it's weird. It's freaky when moms have mini-mes running around. And kids grow out of things so quickly, I don't see the point." Froley, who represents women's fashion brands, added that the practice of dressing your kids like a celebrity tot is "personally, just a little sad. It's, like, dress your kids like themselves." But for parents accustomed to keeping up with the Joneses in other areas of life, dressing their 4-year-olds in Tod's loafers and Chloe dresses is just another way to assert their style and affluence. And kitting out your kids in designer duds is far cheaper than swathing yourself in Chloe. "You can live out your fashion fantasies through your kids," says Meiler, a Life & Style editor who dissects duds worn by Shiloh Jolie-Pitt, Violet Affleck and other celebrity offspring for Life & Style. "The adult equivalent would be $1,000, and in kids it's only $100. Plus, I don't look like Gwen Stefani, and nothing I put on is going to make me look like Gwen Stefani. But with kids, people can show their personalities." ?Hodge Craig had never been so put out with his sister. She was the most accessible person he knew. They spoke virtually every day, and though he was in Georgia and she was in Texas, he never had trouble tracking her down. This day, of all days, Tonya Hodge Rosenberger could not be reached. Tonya, who was known to her family as Sissy, had promised Chad she would wake up that Saturday morning, Jan. 21, 2006, and take a home pregnancy test. A week earlier, a fertility specialist in , Va., had delicately transferred three 5-day-old embryos into her . She wasn't due to take a formal blood test for another three days. But Chad and Sissy simply could not wait to learn whether she might be pregnant with his children. The embryos were the product of eggs harvested from a donor they barely knew and sperm contributed by both Chad, 35, and his longtime gay partner, David Craig, 37. Two of the embryos had been fertilized by one of the men, and one by the other, but they didn't know which. It was their fifth attempt in 15 months to create a pregnancy through a gestational surrogacy arrangement. To get to this point, they had gone through two egg retrievals, 58 eggs, 43 embryos, two embryo freezes, three frozen embryo thaws, four failed embryo transfers, two surrogates and more than $100,000. They were emotionally and financially drained, and they were down to their last batch of frozen embryos. If this transfer failed, Chad and David would have to start from scratch, and they weren't sure they had either the will or the resources to keep going. When Chad and Sissy had spoken the day before, they had agreed to delay any disclosure of the pregnancy test results until Saturday afternoon, when David was due to return from a business trip. But Chad jumped the gun and started calling Sissy midmorning, after conferencing in David. He could not raise her anywhere. Not at her home in Arlington, Texas. Not on her cell. Her husband, Jay Rosenberger, said he had slept in with a cold and had no idea where she was. Chad left messages, but they weren't returned. Bewildered and increasingly agitated, he killed time until midafternoon, when David arrived, and then tried again without success. "I don't know if this has happened my whole life," Chad said, "where it's been this hard to get hold of her." Just before 4 p.m., there was a knock at the door and Chad, still unshaven, swung it open. Standing there were Sissy and Jay with their two young children, Matthew and Anabelle. Initially, Chad could not make sense of the scene. It was like one of those unsettling dreams where the characters seemed hopelessly out of place. Then he saw that Sissy was holding a clear baggie. In it were two plastic sticks, the size of thermometers. They were pregnancy test monitors, and as Sissy raised them to Chad's eye level, he could see that each bore faint pink stripes. * Too momentous "CONGRATULATIONS!" Jay said. It took a moment to sink in. They hadn't let themselves believe it could work this time. "You're here?" Chad said, his eyes welling. "You're pregnant? Oh my God. Oh my God. When did you hear?" Sissy began telling the story as David came to the door, a smile of astonishment spreading across his face. She had in fact taken the test that morning, and gotten a positive result. Being wary of home pregnancy tests, she dashed to Walgreens to buy a different brand. It showed positive as well. ?Although the makeover movie genre often thrusts men into padded superhero suits, the silver screen has offered up a handful of memorable male metamorphoses that required little more than a change of clothes, a shift of the shoulder and an attitude adjustment. Among some of the standouts: "The Nutty Professor" (1963) didn't need no stinkin' fat suit in the original version of his Jekyll and Hyde romp (later remade starring in said fat suit). Lewis transformed his character with just buckteeth and a bowl cut for the nerdy before and an eye-catching blue tuxedo, pink shirt and smoldering swagger for the after. "" (1978) While it fits neatly into the superhero transformation model, "Superman" is worth mentioning here because had to shift between being the last son of Krypton and playing the bumbling Daily Planet reporter Clark Kent without the benefit of today's rubberized suits, latex muscles and CGI wizardry. Even so, when he slumped those shoulders and let the glasses slide down his nose, even the audience forgot he was Superman. (1988) is the one dressed to the nines for most of the movie. But when 's character trades in his wardrobe of windbreakers and washed out polos to hit the casino floor in a double-breasted, peak-lapel jacket, he takes it all the way up to eleven. (The scene's so memorable, it's spoofed in ".") (1993) In this classic example of the "better man" makeover, hardly changes clothes as he relives the same day over and over again. Yet as his dour demeanor softens, a thousand subtle signs telegraph the transformation, as seen in the way he walks, talks, combs his hair and even smiles. "Can't Buy Me Love" (1987) It's a toss-up which is the better makeover, over the run of the movie or Patrick Dempsey over the run of his career, but the crash-course in a high school cool is well worth the thousand bucks he offers the school's popular cheerleader to pretend to be his girlfriend so he can break out of his nerd-dom. "The Shape of Things" (2003) As dark and mean-spirited a makeover as there ever was, art student starts to mold nerdy boyfriend into someone else, a process that includes rhinoplasty — and a surprise ending. (2009) Although it doesn't happen until the end of the movie, paraplegic soldier Jake Sully's decision to permanently leave his withered husk of a human body behind and live on as his Na'vi avatar is a male movie makeover of titanic proportions. (2011) Navy vet gets a mid-life reboot thanks to a community college cutie named Talia, who sets him up with a radical wardrobe overhaul (featuring a messenger bag and black leather jacket), a haircut and even feng shui for his cluttered house. The result? He gains self-confidence and ends up locking lips with . (Note: Results not typical.) (2011) In the male makeover movie by which the fashion quotient of all future ones should be measured, 's player takes away 's rumpled corduroy blazers, New Balance running shoes and outsized polo shirts and replaces them with tailored luxury labels , Zegna and Burberry. It's definitely the summer's must-see movie for anyone with a fashion-challenged male friend. ?Milan, Italy WITH the sorry state of the global economy and the escalating cost of gas, why even bother changing out of your pajamas at all? Why not punch out, cocoon in your geodesic dome, dig in your garden, go on a Bohemian safari, become a peripatetic nomad, neo-hippie or wandering gypsy and wave the wrinkled, white cotton flag of sartorial surrender? That was the sentiment behind the spring men's collections that wrapped up here Tuesday. Most designers thumbed their noses at the traditional corporate dress of the pinstriped hedge fund managers and CEOs who got us into this mess in the first place. Clothes that weren't being cut into high-priced PJs were steamrolled, crumpled and dismantled from the inside out, subjected to the same pressure as the men wearing them. Based on the number of denuded necklines, not only will the necktie -- the symbolic yoke of the working stiff -- be extinct by next summer, but the shirt collar and jacket lapel are on their way out too. As Ed Park writes in the opening lines of his new novel of office satire, "Personal Days": "We dress like we don't make much money, which is true for at least half of us." Dolce & Gabbana were on top of the pajama game with double- and single-breasted pajama-print jackets with contrast piping, generously proportioned drawstring trousers that overflowed at the ankles and kimono-inspired bathrobes. A denim tuxedo paired with chunky mandals? A suit crafted out of micro-dot-patterned necktie fabric? On the surface they're fun twists on classic menswear; underneath they're the perfect embodiment of the new casual/luxe vibe. Bottega Veneta came to the slumber party too, albeit with more subtlety. In doing so, creative director Tomas Maier sent out one of the most enjoyable and wearable collections of the week. Calling it the "single most versatile item in a man's wardrobe," Maier focused on the jacket, from light cotton striped styles akin to pajama tops, to more constructed, peak-shouldered, knit jersey blazers. Trousers were also a relaxed, sleepwear-inspired affair, generously cut in comfortable cottons. At Burberry Prorsum, took a different approach to the wardrobe of economic protest. Instead of shuffling off to bed, he headed out to the garden. Under a clear roof that made the show venue look (and, unfortunately, feel) like a giant greenhouse, Bailey was inspired by his love for gardening as well as the late British filmmaker , who famously built a garden near Dungeness nuclear power station. If it sounds like a somber, up-the-establishment premise, it was. Bailey's "crumpled classics" -- drop-shouldered, wrinkle-washed cotton outerwear; scoop-necked knitwear; gathered trouser waists; puckered cardigans; and battered gardening hats -- were the sartorial equivalent of a defeated soul collapsing in on itself. On the bright side, it is hard to see how they could be anything but the ultimate in worn-in comfort. Dude décolletage Miuccia Prada, who pilfered the pajama drawer a year ago, revisited the theme only briefly with a few polos that resembled nightshirts, worn with boxers. Mostly, she focused on the future, one apparently in which men wear halter-top hoodies that expose them from rotator cuff to rotator cuff and down to the breast bone, forming a triangle of man cleavage. Asked about the parade of dude décolletage, Prada said, with a twinkle in her eye, "Men have it, they just don't show it very often." More traditional pieces included short-waisted jackets with sleeves rolled up, many with stiff, exaggerated creases and outlines of nonexistent ghost buttons that suggested the presence of intense pressure. Here, as at Dolce & Gabbana, the offerings included a full-denim suit. It may be a corporate silhouette, but it's cut from the working man's cloth, making it the ultimate commentary on high/low fashion. Several lads wore baggy boxers, voluminous tank tops and wide-necked shirts or trench coats, all in white, paired with black dress socks and shoes, looking as if they had been stripped of their workaday wardrobe and sent packing, or that they'd given up their suits in protest. The protest from Versace was against not only the necktie but also the collar itself. Over the last few seasons, and Alexandre Plokhov have been tweaking the traditional notion of the jacket lapel. This time, a pinstriped suit had lapels but no collar, while a black jacket had not one but two sets of lapels. This "formal attitude, informal mind-set" requires something dressy in the accessories arena, and Versace's answer to the tie is a narrow scarf of colored silk worn loosely knotted around a bare neck. It was California casual through a Versace filter, and it doesn't take much to imagine the pushed-up sleeves, loose collars and sandaled feet tucking into a table at the Ivy. Early press reports buzzed with news that Donatella had dedicated her collection to , and one of the snappy, no-collar jackets could only improve on the ill-fitting collars that have left the junior senator looking more junior high school kid in his big brother's hand-me-downs than potential leader of the free world. lives to thumb his nose at The Man, and he didn't disappoint, sending out a collection of body-hugging and thought-provoking garments that used flesh-tone color-blocking to create the illusion of bandaged, shirtless or bustier-wearing men. Distinctive wisps of cigarette smoke were Jacquard woven into shirts and jackets to appear as if they were curling across the garments, an effect McQueen said took three months to perfect. "It's that whole smoke-and-mirrors feeling like when you go into a club and it's all misty and sexy," McQueen said, adding: "And that makes it a smoking jacket, doesn't it?" ?"HE'S QUITE ... blessed!" says Calamity Chang, a British burlesque star who appeared with actor/leading man/hunk in some of the many nude scenes in the movie "Shame." Fassbender is the one made a sexy reference to at the -- in case you've been under a rock. But the actor, of German and Irish extraction, has a real claim to fame. It is in being one of the hardest-working men in international films. He has completed a 20-month spell of work where he shot six movies. I just saw him onscreen being kicked through a door by martial arts expert Gina Carano in the perfectly silly movie "Haywire." (This is the one your teenage male offspring are so crazy about.) WAIT FOR it! The'70s super band is about to release its first new song in 20 years. In April, their first album since 1994 will be out. It's titled "A Twinkling Star to a Passing Angel." "" -- the hit musical based on ABBA songs -- is still seen worldwide, still making money since it opened in 1999 in London's West End. UGGIE, the dog from the award-winning silent film "The Artist," is being retired by its trainer, Omar Von Muller. He doesn't want to put 'Uggie' through anymore long hours. Von Muller says, "He's getting tired." But does this mean the adorable Uggie won't turn up at the ? Say it isn't so. THEY SAY only seven people turned up for actor Nicol Williamson's burial the other day. The bad boy of English theater had not worked since 1997 and had turned down some great offers in his time. His obit describes him as a hell-raiser; one of the patron saints of bad behavior, "almost deliberately badly behaved," prone to walking offstage in mid-performance, throwing things, an exhibitionist and the last of a breed. One of Williamson's obits by Roger Lewis refers to the actor as being possibly influenced by and method acting. This led to the story of and in "Marathon Man." To look sweaty, Hoffman ran around a football field. He was panting when Oliver remarked, "Why don't you try acting, dear boy? It's far easier." I SEE why movie stars like don't like to give interviews. He gave one to the Hollywood Reporter recently in which he cited his "depression" in the 1990s when he was coping with 'the celebrity thing.' Depression is serious stuff. But almost everybody suffers from it occasionally. Headlines reporting his remarks make it seem he is seriously "down." But Pitt seems very happy these days. He has Oscar nods, a stimulating relationship, lots of good charity efforts and six children. IN THESE days when the 1 percent is being excoriated, guess what? Even though the global market is shaky and buying of luxury goods is a bit shaky, LVMH is still going strong. Sales of Louis Vuitton and Loewe handbags, Krug champagne and Hennessy cognac, Tag Heuer watches, and other spirits, leather, feather and fashionable goods, including Burberry, seem to be soaring. MICHAEL JACKSON began his showbiz career as an adorable, phenomenally gifted child. He didn't need a lot of razzmatazz to showcase his pure voice and amazing dance technique, a technique that even the great would come to admire. But as the years rolled on, Michael ramped up the sets, the style and the strangeness. Sometimes he appeared to get lost under the "stuff," when all he really needed was to sing and dance, period. But when people pay hundreds of dollars for concert tickets, they want spectacle as well as talent. Perhaps more of the former than the latter. And spectacle is certainly the attraction of tribute show, titled -- with typical understatement -- "Immortal." The show features all the usual Cirque bells and whistles: acrobatics, LED screens, huge balloons, animatronic recreations of Michael, and, but of course, his real image and voice, as compelling as ever. Apparently, although the show was a huge hit in Montreal and Las Vegas, raking in more than $100 million, some consider it tasteless, overblown, exploitive, especially as the Jackson family is involved. Well, they have to be involved. The Jacksons, in tandem with , control Michael's music and likeness. While Michael was alive, the Jackson family didn't seem to be thriving, nor did their golden goose. But now Michael is the most successful dead celebrity ever. His estate has garnered a whopping $450 million since the pop icon's tragic death almost three years ago. Michael, who loved to break records and boast of his accomplishments, would be so happy to know he's still the King of Pop, so crowned by his friend . Michael's children, Prince, Paris and will never know a day of financial need. Nor will anybody else in the family. "Immortal" has plans to move on to London and other spots in Europe. As one newspaper review stated, "It's like a Michael Jackson tour, without Michael." But that seems to be good enough for Michael's fans. Oh, and these fans don't care if some condemn the show as "tacky, sentimental and visually overloaded." It's as close to the old Michael Jackson experience as those who adored him can get. They love it. (E-mail at , or write to her c/o Tribune Media Services, 2225 Kenmore Ave., Suite 114, Buffalo, NY 14207.) ?Comfort, familiarity and nostalgia were the watchwords coming out of the fall-winter 2009-10 men's collections in Milan last week, a not-unexpected response to the great gray swirl of unknowns surrounding the global economic free-fall. Indeed, shades of gray carried the day, though the somber hues were punctuated with pops and dollops of reds that spoke to the hope of brighter days ahead. Even for fall collections, the male form was more padded, quilted and protected than usual, which made it the perfect time for French outerwear label Moncler and American designer Thom Browne, the sultan of short pants, to unveil their cold weather collaboration -- which they did by sending models schussing down an indoor ski slope to the tune of "The Lonely Goatherd" from "The Sound of Music," the high-camp high point of the week. The après ski crowd a year from now will find suits draped and wrapped, silhouettes loosened and jacket lapels a bit wider, and the fall collections were crammed with turtlenecks and voluminous knit scarves. But the comfort coda was about more than just quilted tuxedos and padded jackets. Many collections went deeper, trying to pad the psyche and insulate against what President Obama called in his inaugural address the "gathering clouds and raging storms" in which we now find ourselves. That opened the door to a wide range of trends, which included embracing the old-school cardigan, escapist excursions to the past and designers' own return to their roots. Plus, a fascination with blankets rarely seen this side of a slatted crib. sent simple, gray, blanket-weight coats down the runway. At Roberto Cavalli, woven Indian blanket patterns adorned trousers and slip-on shoes. Alexander McQueen revisited the wrapped blanket-coat theme from last fall, mixing it in among caped, can-wielding street toughs (and what is a cape really, but a blanket with a collar and some hardware?). Etro offered blanket-weight cloaks in hound's-tooth and glen check suiting fabrics over-printed with Art Deco designs. And at Woolrich Woolen Mills (which presents its fall collection here), designer Daiki Suzuki repurposed Woolrich's traditional jacquard weave blanket fabric into a camouflage polo coat, and took inspiration from Hudson Bay blankets for striped wool vests and hunting breeches. At Burberry, where the brand's heritage has seemed more of a liability than an asset in recent seasons, creative director surprised a lot of people at the shows when he sent models down the runway wearing shirts in a version of the familiar Nova check pattern, and closed the show with a catwalk full of Burberry scarves. Alexander McQueen took refuge in his enfant terrible MO, referencing it in a collection filled with Victorian-era thugs, and even a few real-life London pugilists to help model his collection of abattoir chic, which included ominous-looking leather aprons, with crimson spatters on black Victorian leather. The cardigan was king this season (though the cable knit wasn't far behind). Bottega Veneta used its soft-shouldered shape as inspiration, and by the time the bearded, white-haired gents in the model lineup at the Etro show hit the catwalk in this sweater-filled season, it felt like the shift change at a beatnik bookstore. Offering the sartorial equivalent of a "staycation," some fall collections dealt with the glum reality by heading the other direction. creative director Frida Giannini set the way-back machine for the 1980s -- the skinny ties, black and white geometric patterns and bright purples and electric blues made the House of Gucci seem like the luxury-brand equivalent of Benjamin Button, getting younger as it ages. Moschino and Dsquared both screen-printed boutonnieres onto lapels -- bright red blooms at Dsquared and white roses at Moschino -- that took the photo-realistic printing a step further and created the jacket lapels that graced a sport coat. Another model ambled by wearing a navy blue pullover sweater with a pen and glasses woven into the nonexistent breast pocket.?Over the centuries, at the same time military might has been building borders, shaping national identities and protecting ways of life, it's also been building our wardrobes, shaping our silhouettes and taking fledgling brands to the front lines of fashion — for men and women. Indeed, war's contributions to the world's closets are too numerous for a definitive list — bomber jackets, combat boots, epaulets, raglan sleeves and pea coats, anyone? But here are a few highlights. Khaki trousers: The beige twill trousers known as "khakis" (derived from the Hindi word for dust) have their military roots in uniforms worn by the British colonial forces in India in the 1840s, a version of which was later adopted by the for and uniforms. On the home front, the first wave of popularity came in the 1950s, when American soldiers returning from the war introduced them to the college campus crowd. Allen Edmonds shoes: Wisconsin-based shoe manufacturer Allen Edmonds cites winning government contracts to make dress shoes for Army and Navy officers as one of the key turning points in its corporate history. According to company lore, troops wearing Allen Edmonds during World War II found the shoes so comfortable they continued as customers after they came home. Hart Schaffner Marx: When Harry and Hart Marx opened their doors in Chicago in 1887, it was on the retail side of the clothing business, but early successes on the wholesale side led to a government contract. That in turn created the critical mass that pushed the company to move from focusing on made-to-measure suits to large-scale manufacturing of off-the-rack, pre-sized versions — the basis for the label's claim that it was the first to introduce suits tailored to different body types. According to company history it was also the first to introduce zippered trousers and tropical-weight wools. The company went on to dress troops through two world wars and become one of the single largest suppliers of uniforms. After the war, that military heritage and the brand's made-in-America roots were recurring themes in its advertising, which made it the perfect label for President Obama to wear on inauguration day. Trench coats: There's a historical debate over whether the trench coat was invented by Burberry and first used to protect British soldiers from inclement weather in World War I or by fellow British brand nearly half a century earlier for soldiers in the Crimean War. (That skirmish, incidentally, added the cardigan sweater and the balaclava to the fashion's lexicon). But there's no debating that Thomas Burberry invented the water-repellent gabardine fabric traditionally used to make the long, double-breasted coat with large lapels, convertible collar and epaulets to which military insignia could be easily attached. In the post-World War II years, the style became equally popular with women and has since become entrenched as a key piece in any fashion-forward person's closet. Camouflage: The green and brown blotches that characterize traditional military camouflage have their roots in the patterns employed by the French military in 1915. Although the pattern cropped up on civilian clothes just a few decades later (some point to designs circa 1937), camo colorways really had their pop culture coming-out party in the 1980s. Over the last two decades, labels such as and Bathing Ape have appropriated the motif, and today what was originally designed to help soldiers blend into the background is rendered in eye-catching colors emblazoned on items as varied as wrap dresses and condom wrappers. But one thing civilians won't find is the dominant pattern used by the U.S. Army, because it is proprietary. Even military supplier Massif can't use the U.S. pattern on the new line of civilian clothing it's launching. "We are using a genuine camouflage on one of our tailored soft-shell jackets," says company Vice President Scott Branscum, "but it's one that was used by the Spanish army." Ray-Ban Aviators: Developed by Bausch & Lomb in the 1920s at the request of the U.S. Army Airs Corps, the goal of what were then known as Anti-Glare goggles was to protect the eyes of military pilots from high-altitude glare. In 1937, they were offered to the general public under the name Ray-Bans (as in "they ban the sun's rays"). Stoking their early popularity was military man . Woolrich blankets: Thirty years after it was founded in Pennsylvania in 1830, Woolrich started a long-running relationship with the U.S. Army by supplying the heavy woolen blankets soldiers carried into battle during the Civil War. The company would subsequently supply troops in both world wars with blankets and uniforms. And, as the only continuously operating U.S. woolen mill to supply troops as far back as the Civil War, the company is a key resource for film studios and re-enactors. ?With her perfect diction, cigarette holder and flamboyant yet elegant sense of fashion -- hats, scores of them in various styles, were her trademark -- the charmingly eccentric Mimi Weddell stood out. A New York City model and actress whose full-time career began at age 65 after her husband died in 1981, Weddell became a familiar sight on casting calls for films, television and print ads. Over the years, she landed bit parts and small roles in films including "The Purple Rose of Cairo" and "Hitch," and in " ," "Law & Order" and other TV series. She also appeared in numerous commercials and in print ads for Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Juicy Couture, and other companies. In 2005, at age 90, Weddell was included in New York magazine's eclectic, photo-illustrated list of the . Casting director Jennifer Venditti, who selected Weddell, told the magazine: "She has such elegant style and willowy posture, but she doesn't try to conceal her wrinkles and signs of aging; she's a whole package." The indomitable Weddell, the subject of the 2008 feature-length died Sept. 24 at her home in Manhattan after a short illness. She was 94. Until a few months ago, Weddell was still making the rounds of casting calls, said Jyll Johnstone, the director of "Hats Off." "To her, it didn't matter whether she was a star or not a star," Johnstone said. "What mattered to her was that she continued to work." Johnstone, who has known Weddell's daughter, Sarah Dillon, since they were children and is a former New York actress, recalled seeing Weddell at the in the 1980s. "Mimi and I connected, and we always hung out together," Johnstone said. "She was so unique. "Besides looking very different than most older people, when you'd have a conversation with Mimi, she thought out of the box of what you'd think someone her age would think or talk about. She was totally hip on all the goings-on about town." Over a 10-year period when the youthfully spirited Weddell aged from 80 to 90, Johnstone followed her with a camera as she went on auditions, attended acting, singing and dancing classes and did gymnastics workouts. Weddell's can-do motto was "Rise above it." "If you don't dance, for heaven's sake, you cannot aspire. You do not lift up from this earth," Weddell says in the documentary. Her longtime home was an apartment on Manhattan's , which she shared with her daughter, son-in-law and grandson and where she stored her more than 150 hats. "The only romantic thing left in life is a hat," Weddell said. Born Marion Rogers on Feb. 15, 1915, in Williston, N.D., she grew up primarily in Massachusetts. In the mid-1940s, she worked as an assistant to New York Times fashion editor Virginia Pope. Over the years, the mother of two worked part-time as an advertising copy writer, a secretary and a print-ad model. She also took acting classes and occasionally appeared in off-Broadway plays. But her passions, acting and modeling, were never full-time. That changed after her husband, Richard, a former executive for RCA's classical music label who became an art gallery salesman, died. "At 65, she realized she doesn't have to take care of anybody anymore," Johnstone said. "Now it was time for her to go full blast in what she really wanted to do." Since news of Weddell's death spread on the Internet, Johnstone has received letters from people who were inspired to follow their own dreams by the woman they saw in the documentary. Many are in their 60s, including a woman who said she was going to get a nursing degree and a man who planned to finish his doctorate. "It's amazing how she touched so many lives," said Johnstone. In addition to her daughter, Weddell is survived by her son, Tom Weddell; and two grandchildren. ?WITH so many chic boutiques now dotting the city, it's not easy dragging out the stylists, editors and "it" kids who will broadcast big buzz. But when the store has a cult following like New York sensation Opening Ceremony, opening night of its L.A. outpost last week was reason enough for these folks to turn out in killer style. Between the cool crowd and the inspired retail concept, the party ranked among the season's big events — without the million-dollar budget or red carpet. There were the Rodarte sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, and Jeremy Scott. Charlotte Froom tied an Hermès scarf into a hobo knapsack and let it hang from her pale shoulder, while Ezra Wood turned up the collar of his check jacket, evoking Ducky from "Pretty in Pink." It was a feast for trend arbiters such as überstylist Arianne Phillips and Visionaire editor Cecila Dean, who was among the New Yorkers, including designer Benjamin Cho (in cotton-candy pink cashmere) who came West just for the party. All are fans of the shop that debuted in 2002 with the quirky concept of spotlighting designers from a different country each year in a nod to the . In L.A.'s case, the "rivalry" is between designers based here (Jasmin Shokrian and Katy Rodriguez, who lingered until closing) and New Yorkers (Proenza Schouler, Mayle and others). "Let the games begin," laughed Rodriguez, cinched up in a flowered canvas Dries Van Noten trench and lemon patent pumps. That's the reaction owners Humberto Leon, a former visual director for Burberry, and Carol Lim, an ex-investment banker, aimed for with this style insider's Valhalla located in a 10,000-square-foot building, formerly 's dance studio. United Bamboo, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Hussein Chalayan and Opening Ceremony's own line are among the 60 coveted brands. It's also the only L.A. source for Britain's cheap-chic Top Shop, and will carry ' collection in May. The store marks a homecoming for Leon and Lim, former Valley kids who met at . Their suburban-fueled visions of California dreaming are evident in the décor, from the whitewashed clapboard dressing rooms that resemble model homes to the ping-pong tables covered in pink and yellow versions of the state flag. A second floor opens this fall. Leon wants shoppers to lose themselves, and likens the labyrinthine shopping to driving the freeways. "On the way to where you need to be, you inevitably discover something amazing." — Rose Apodaca?Socialite and former reality TV star Olivia Palermo has become a fixture at fashion shows around the globe. She is routinely on best-dressed lists, in outfits that are fashion-forward and that flatter her petite silhouette.Palermo is making the rounds at , where she stopped by the Burberry spring-summer 2013 women's wear show at Gardens in an outfit inspired by the boys of fall. She wore the label's belted tweed topper, which she girlied up a bit with a cinched waist, and a pair of classic black slacks. She accessorized with a gold chain bracelet and a crocodile clutch.Palermo's pieces are ideal staples for fall and beyond. For a plain pair of slacks to wear to the office, or to dinner and drinks, try the from Express.com for $69.99. Keep cozy and chic in the from Zara.com for $89.99. For Palermo's super-cinched waist look try the versatile for $119. Wear it over a blazer for fall or with a dress come springtime. Palermo's accessories add some polish to the menswear-inspired look. For a similar clutch, get the from Kohls.com for $26.60 and add some bling with the from CharlotteRusse.com for $8.50.ALSO: Follow Jenn Harris on or Middle photos, from left: Express editor pant, $69.99 / Express.com; Padded jacket with belt, $89.99 / Zara.com; Linea Pelle turn and tuck buckle belt, $119 / LPcollection.com.Bottom photos, from left: Munid crocodile clutch, $26.60 / Kohls.com; Chain link bracelet, $8.50 / CharlotteRusse.com. ?KNEE-LENGTH in full-grain leather, the oxblood riding boots were so stiff, they stood on the shelf as straight as Redwood saplings. I lingered in front of them, admiring the softly rounded toes, not too pointy or blunt, that capped off the shapely foot bed and the thin strap that encircled the vamp, anchored by a subtle brass buckle. Classic and pragmatic, they were the kind of boots you spot on the quietly wealthy -- women who eschew brand logos and obvious bling. Costume National, the avant-garde Italian brand, made them. And I wasn't leaving the store without them. Trouble was, I was far from wealthy -- quietly or otherwise -- and the objects of my desire were $700. On sale. It was 2003, and I was working as a mid-level editor at a magazine and shouldering a mountain of grad school debt. I was in no position to buy a $700 anything. Especially when it was a struggle to find $800 for rent. But urged on by a friend, I pulled the trigger, nearly choking on my recklessness as I handed over a new Visa in payment. I'd never have guessed that the purchase would forever change the way I shop. I'd always been a chronic shoe shopper -- an impulse buyer who splurged on three to four new pairs of moderately priced shoes every season. But as I pulled on those boots month after month, I was amazed at how fantastic they continued to look and feel. Price doesn't always dictate quality and comfort (I have a pair of $500 stilettos that hurt even to look at), but after years of abuse, my feet were thanking me for pouring them into something so well-made. And they didn't want to go back to throw-away shoes. Four years later, the boots are still in regular rotation in my wardrobe. More comfy than a pair of Asics, they've taken long, exploratory walks through St. Petersburg, Amsterdam, Tallinn and Rome -- and through countless L.A. 'hoods. Not only have they held up fantastically (the heel shows some minor wear, but the hand-nailed rubber sole is still near-pristine), but they're even more handsome now, with nicks and scratches adding gorgeous dimension to the cognac leather. That first pricey pair proved to be my gateway drug to high-end footwear, which might have proved disastrous. But once I went high-end, I found I was buying significantly less, because I was happily wearing each pair more frequently. Cravings for new styles started to subside. And within six months, my pattern of overspending on the cheap stuff was officially broken. By my calculations, spending more actually saved me money. (An estimate: I used to buy three pairs of shoes every season -- that's 12 pairs at $125 each, about $1,500 annually. Now I buy three to four pairs a year -- each priced between $200 and $400 -- roughly totaling $1,100.) It takes some strategy. The concept of paying more to save more requires you to leave "it" shoes on the shelf. Investing in shoes that are splashed all over the fashion mags and blogs each season is verboten if you're on a budget (and I definitely still am). Prada's ruffle-heeled shoes for fall are drool-worthy, for example, but they're getting too much press to look fresh a year from now. And you don't have to pay full price for designer shoes -- I never do. I shop BlueFly.com, warehouse sale in Santa Monica and end-of-season sales at boutiques such as Madison Los Angeles and Fred Segal Feet. Local outlets can be gold mines too. Early this year, I snapped up a pair of heels for $120 at the brand's store at Desert Hills Premium Outlets. Who cares if they're past season? They're stunning and not so trendy that most people can fix them to a certain season -- exactly what you're looking for. At this price point, think in years, not seasons. It will be eons before you discard a pair of Chanel flats, black Christian Louboutin heels or Burberry riding boots. Dropping a car payment on a pair of platforms never felt so frugal. ?The Times Travel section asked readers to share their tips on saving money while still enjoying vacation. Here are some of their recommendations. For more, go to . Saving money in Europe Consider attending a language school in a foreign country. Often, such schools will arrange a home stay with a family that can include meals and/or kitchen privileges. I have visited Venice, Italy, four times this way, once staying a month because it was so affordable. I would never be able to afford to spend two to four weeks in Venice otherwise. Of course, you have to attend classes, usually in the morning, but it is a great way to meet other international travelers and learn the language too. --Jill Gluck, West Hollywood :: Buy local items in charity shops in Ireland, Wales and England. For example, I picked up a Manchester United footballer shirt (for $10), a Burberry purse ($5) and an Irish wool hat ($4). Others in my tour group laughed until they saw my incredible finds. --Carol Williford, Cedar Creek, Texas :: I just came back from France and here are some tips: If driving, stay in a bed-and-breakfast. The price of the room is for the room, not per person, and breakfast is included. Plus you get the real France. To save on food, go to a typical French outdoor market and pick up some picnic items; find a glorious spot to sit and take in the countryside without spending lots of euros on a restaurant lunch. If not driving, stay in a city and make it your home base. Then, immediately go to the tourist office and ask for any passes offered -- bus, train, boat, museum, etc. You can buy them for the amount of time you're in the city. I recently spent three weeks there and took 600 euros (about $800) out of my checking account and came back with 150 (about $200). So it can be done. --Rosemary Chiaverini, Sherman Oaks :: Stay in privately owned apartment rentals instead of hotels. Websites such as or offer a treasure box of reasonably priced apartment rentals with excellent amenities. Many include daily or midweek maid service. And preparing your own meals and picnics saves a lot of money. When eating out, in Europe, for example, eat your main meal when the all-inclusive lunch menus are available. I live in Spain part time and travel around Europe quite often. I can get a three- or four-course main meal with included beverage for about $10 to $15 if I look for the tourist menu, usually served between 1 and 5 p.m. Use local public transportation instead of going on an expensive organized tour. For the price of a bus or Metro ticket and a good travel book or local tourist office information pamphlet, you can see the local sights at a fraction of the cost and have the opportunity to meet and talk with the locals. Isn't that what traveling is supposed to be about? Check local papers and ask the locals if they know of any free or low-cost entertainment opportunities. Often, there are free park concerts, church concerts, etc., that only the locals or the local newspapers know about. ?Auto Dealership Keyes Cars (tie) Multiple area locations Keyes Cars has been a fixture in the San Fernando Valley for more than 50 years, with 13 franchises selling pretty much every kind of car you can imagine. The Keyes group of dealerships has one of the largest selections of vehicles in L.A. Longo Toyota (tie) 3534 Peck Road El Monte, 91731 (800) 701-9067 Longo Toyota is a local Toyota powerhouse, offering 2012 and 2013 model-year cars, trucks and SUVs at competitive prices. The sales staff is top-notch and genuinely knowledgeable about the vehicles they sell. They get you into the car you want, not the car they want you to want. Rusnak Volvo (tie) 2025 E. Colorado Blvd. Pasadena, 91107 (866) 453-5840 Rusnak recognizes that people are devoted to their Volvos with uncommon enthusiasm, which is why they offer such fabulous customer service. Whether you’re there to buy a new Volvo or just get yours fixed, the experience is quick, convenient and pleasant. Bikes Helen’s Cycles 1071 Gayley Ave. Los Angeles, 90024 (310) 208-8988 Helen’s Cycles’ flagship storefront in Santa Monica boasts a bike and accessories inventory that is virtually unlimited. Whether you’re in the market for an upscale road bike or just getting your current one tuned up, the upbeat, trained professionals here will take care of you.L.A. Central/Hollywood: I Martin Orange County: Jax Pasadena/San Gabriel Valley: Jones Bikes Cameras Samy’s Camera Multiple area locations In a metropolis built on the art of motion-picture camera magic, Samy’s Camera remains one of the most cutting-edge resources in the business. Take a beginners’ class in Final Cut Pro, immerse yourself in a filmmaking boot camp, or participate in manufacturer-led training with your new digital camera. Clothing, Men’s Men’s Wearhouse Multiple area locations In just 40 years, Men’s Warehouse has grown from a single Texas store (with a cigar box for a cash register — no lie) into the largest men’s clothier in the United States.Clothing, Women’s Twig & Willow 3740 E. 4th St. Long Beach, 90814 (562) 433-8944 Twig & Willow is a store filled with everything you never knew you wanted. Its collection of fashion-forward clothing also features affordable accessories from local artisans and handcrafted housewares. Inland Empire: Kohl’s Orange County: Denim Bar SF Valley/Foothills/Ventura: Lili Bridals Westside: Babette Collectibles/Comics Long Beach Antique Market Long Beach Veterans Stadium 4901 E. Conant St. Long Beach, 90808 (323) 655-5703 Long Beach Veterans Stadium on the third Sunday of every month is transformed into the Long Beach Antique Market, where you’ll find more than 800 sellers offering, well, just about everything. The event was named as one of the top 10 flea markets in the U.S. by Good Housekeeping.L.A. Central/Hollywood: Chicken Boy SF Valley/Foothills/Ventura: Orphaned CDs Computers/Electronics Apple Multiple area locations The brick-and-mortar Apple stores are some of the most aesthetically pleasing retail spaces in the world. So beautiful, in fact, that virtual carbon copies are popping up all over the place. We love the stores for their clever layouts and no-pressure sales environments, but we’re especially fond of the resident Mac Geniuses. Fry’s Electronics Multiple area locations Founded in Sunnyvale back 1985, Fry’s was conceived as a one-stop shopping source for professionals working in the tech industry. The company continues to cater to this market, but also addresses the needs of common consumers (those of us who don’t speak binary code). Farmers Market Hollywood Farmers’ Market 6605 Hollywood Blvd., Suite 220 Los Angeles, 90028 (323) 463-3171 The Hollywood Farmers’ Market is a local favorite for good reason. Each Sunday, more than 90 farmers, 30 local artisans and 30 baked goods and prepared-food vendors gather to offer their wares to a delighted public. It’s a direct-to-consumer business model that resonates with just about everybody.Inland Empire: Claremont Farmers & Artisans Market Pasadena/San Gabriel Valley: South Pas. Farmers Mkt. SF Valley/Foothills/Ventura: Studio City Farmers Market South Bay/Southeast: Torrance Farmers Market Westside: Santa Monica Farmers Market Grocery Store Trader Joe’s Multiple area locations If “two-buck chuck” rings a bell, you’re no doubt familiar with the unique products and extraordinary values offered at Trader Joe’s. Founded in Southern California, what was once a small chain of specialty cheese-and-wine shops has evolved into a national brand, with a dedicated following and a culture all its own. While low prices will send you skipping out the door, the upbeat and knowledgeable staff — not to mention the store’s casual beachcomber vibe — will make you feel welcome.Inland Empire: Stater Bros Pasadena/San Gabriel Valley: Jewelry Twig & Willow 3740 East 4th St. Long Beach, 90814 (562) 433-8944 “Affordable” and “handcrafted” are two words you don’t often hear used together in Los Angeles, but at Twig & Willow they’re practically inseparable. The store has been embraced by shoppers all over the Southland for its “comfy-chic” approach to fashion. Jewelry here runs the gamut, from gorgeously restrained chandelier earrings to bracelets delicately beaded with stone. Just try to leave here without buying something.L.A. Central/Hollywood: MUSH Inc Inland Empire: Jared Orange County: Kokopelli gallery Westside: Tiffany & Co. Mall/Shopping Destination/Dept. Store Fashion Island 401 Newport Center Drive Newport Beach, 92660 (949) 721-2000 With a spectacular coastal location overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Fashion Island is Orange County’s favorite shopping destination. Its blend of eateries and retailers is second to none, with a vast array of fine and al fresco dining options set among luxury, designer and fashion specialty boutiques (including , , Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s). But the view — oh, the view! It’s kind of like a vacation and shopping all rolled into one.Inland Empire: Victoria Gardens L.A. Central/Hollywood: The Grove Pasadena/San Gabriel Valley: Westfield Arcadia Shopping Mall SF Valley/Foothills/Ventura: Westfield Topanga Plaza Shopping Center Westside: Westfield Century City Shopping Mall Pet Store Centinela Feed & Pet Supplies Multiple area locations Well here’s a weird story. In 1926, a circus impresario named Al Barnes decided to create his own city in the midst of Los Angeles. It didn’t last, but the building he chose as his city hall did. It would later become the location of the very first Centinela Feed & Pet store. Today, this Southland chain offers everything your pet could ever need. But don’t come here looking to buy a dog or cat. Centinela believes that adoption is the best route to pet (and owner) happiness.L.A. Central/Hollywood: Urban pet Orange County: PetSmart SF Valley/Foothills/Ventura: Petco Shoes Nordstrom Multiple area locations Founded in 1901, Nordstrom (in case you didn’t know) is one of the nation’s leading fashion specialty stores, with 231 stores spread out across the United States. It’s no surprise then that the shoe is selection is out of this world. From Aldo to UGG, Coach to Burberry, Nordstrom is as dedicated to fit as it is to fashion. We love the fact that there are also always plenty of sales people on hand. Our feet deserve it.Multiple locations: Aldo (men’s shoes) Multiple locations: DSW (women’s shoes) Sporting Goods Big 5 Multiple area locations Big 5 is big, indeed. Loaded with 11,000 square feet of quality athletic equipment and apparel ranging from camping and outdoor supplies to snowboarding and in-line skating gear, Big 5 is the place to go for individual and team sports needs. With its league loyalty and discount programs, teams can earn rebates on purchases, save with exclusive offers and buy in bulk for added savings.Inland Empire: South Bay/Southeast: ?Fresh off the fall runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris, here are eight trends worth considering for spring that will still feel new come September: Anorak: At the heart of ' Sportluxe collection, the versatile, lightweight jacket turned up again at Burberry Prorsum worn over black tights. It's the perfect coverup for spring or fall. Peekaboo hair: Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and John Galliano at had a love affair with 1940s silver-screen sirens and their sultry hairstyles. So don't chop it all off this summer. Metallics: They might look like one of those here today-gone tomorrow items, but they were shining on the runway, and plenty of others, for fall. The most forward-looking investment: a bomber jacket. Plaid: Designers at Chanel and Balenciaga were mad for plaid jackets, while Jean Paul Gaultier worked a whole Highlands theme. Burton's lumberjack check luggage is a surprising spin on the trend. Power red: With Hillary Rodham Clinton in the race for the and Nancy Pelosi at the helm on Capitol Hill, we were bound to see a return to 1980s power red, and we did — Viktor & Rolf and Marc Jacobs did especially good coats. A bag or shoe will do just fine too. Tuxedo: It was who first put women in le smoking, and Stefano Pilati updated the look for fall with a sculpted cream tuxedo coatdress. But tuxedos aren't just for after 5: Diesel's spring ivory vest with tux lapels looks terrific with walking shorts. Studs: Fall's sharpest decoration, studs found their way into the Burberry Prorsum, Givenchy and Rock and Republic shows. But Giles Deacon's collection for Mulberry, including a clutch and cuff with oversize gold studs, is in the hands of the fashionable crowd now. Lace-ups: Old-fashioned ghillies, brogues and just plain lace-ups added a retro touch at Anne Klein, Marc Jacobs and Christian Dior. Christian Louboutin already has them in a spectator style for spring.?-- Luxury retailer Burberry won $180 million in two separate counterfeiting suits against networks of websites selling fake goods.Both suits, filed in federal court in Manhattan, accused knockoff artists of hawking items bearing the Burberry name and signature plaid on sites such as "BurberryOutlet8.com" and "Burberrys-Vision.com." The judge in both cases also awarded Burberry a permanent injunction and ordered that the domain names be transferred to the company's control.Burberry set up a litigation program in 2010 to focus on combating websites selling counterfeit goods. In a statement, the company said it was "very pleased" with the judgments. "While we have seen significant success to date," Burberry said, "we continue to take action against, and press for maximum penalties to be imposed on, those engaged in this criminal activity."-- Co., which suffered a $163-million loss in its first quarter after a major price revamp, said it would launch several new labels in an attempt to capture more shopper interest.In a call with investors, Penney's executives said a private clothing brand called jcp for men and women would debut in August. Penney's also will add collections from such high-end designers such as Betsey Johnson, Cynthia Rowley and Lulu Guinness.So far, Penney’s much-ballyhooed revamp – which involved swapping out its ongoing sales cycles for year-round low prices – appears to be confusing instead of exciting shoppers. It’s not a good sign for new Chief Executive Ron Johnson, an Apple alum who pushed hard for the initiative when it was launched earlier this year.-- Just before the summer grilling season starts, Fresh & Easy Neighborhood Market is rolling out a "Ready to Cook" line of meats and vegetables that are seasoned and ready to be popped onto the stove or grill.The line includes more than 50 items of beef, fish, chicken, pork and vegetables, including Atlantic salmon skewers with spicy orange sauce ($5.99) and chili herb sweet potatoes ($3.49).Anthony Johnson, Fresh & Easy's manager for meat, fish and poultry, said summer ushers in lots of gatherings that require no-fuss food.“More people are coming together for barbecues, graduations and picnics, and everyone wants to find great deals on quality meats and veggies they can easily throw on the grill,” Johnson said.RELATED:?On average, the angriest e-mails I get are from former Mercedes-Benz owners on the occasion of my saying something nice about the company's products. I imagine an irate reader pounding away at his keyboard in the wee hours of the morning, with a shiny Lexus in the driveway and a Stuttgart-made knife still quivering in his back. Allow me to gloss: "I can't believe you raved about the [insert gaudy hunk of German schteel here]. I bought a Mercedes a few years ago and it was a total piece of [insert colorful metaphor here]. I took it back to the dealer [exponential figure times] and finally got sick of them looking at me like I was speaking a foreign language [English?]. So, when did you go on the company payroll, you toadying, Hun-loving shill?" Dear Mom: Thank you for your recent e-mail. . . . What energizes these missives is a sense of betrayal, and in a perverse way -- and wholly unwelcome, I'm sure -- the galled, bug-eyed fury of disappointed buyers is a tribute to the expectations attached to the Mercedes-Benz brand. It is also, I believe, a measure of the hollowness of luxury and mass-class branding in general. When the plaid patterns on a Burberry's handbag don't line up; when Coach boots come marching out of Chinese factories; when Breitling, Baume & Mercier, Bulgari and Breguet all sell the same watch losing the same time with Swiss precision, consumers can only hope that Mercedes-Benz -- which can fairly claim to have invented the automobile -- would be a redoubt of quality. In the last decade, it's been kind of a slum. Last year, Mercedes and Consumer Reports went all pistols-at-dawn when the magazine listed many MB models as least reliable in their respective categories. And the company has fared no better with J.D. Power's pivotal dependability ratings. All of this, I'm sure, has occasioned a calm and orderly procession of engineers and executives off the rooftops at Untertürkheim. This background is necessary to decode the new and ubiquitous ads for the 2008 C-class. These ads portray the heroic lengths the company has gone to to develop the vehicle: the seven years' worth of road-pounding chassis development, the brakes fit for Autobahn duty, the doors that support the weight of a 200-pound man. Why? "Because we promised you a Mercedes-Benz, that's why," says the earnest spokesman. Just in case you thought you had ordered a BLT. Of course it's a Mercedes-Benz. But what precisely does that mean? At its best, the brand stands for over-realized, over-engineered, survive-the-apocalypse quality that, to the extent that it conveys luxury, signifies that rich people are also smart. That's the "promise" to which is referred. That is the compact between company and buyer, recently abrogated but now, the company insists, back in force. So, is the new C-class -- in the deathless prose of the ad -- a Mercedes-Benz? Well, it feels like one. The moment you touch the door handle, you register the lubricated heft, the mantle-of-the-Earth solidity of Mercedes' biggest and best products. Fall into the stiff, low-bolster seats and the familiar comes at you in waves: The optional COMAND nav/audio/vehicle controller interface is the same as in the S-class, only the central rotary knob is a smaller, knurled aluminum wheel. Much of the switchgear is identical to that of the higher-end vehicles. I was fairly unexcited about the C-class interior until I saw it in person; the grade of materials is richer and more appealing than it looks in photos. This is an organized, serious interior with lots of evident deliberation behind it. Sightlines are excellent, and it's especially nice to be able to see the hood stretching out with small audacity like the S-class. In the U.S., the 2008 C-class comes in three flavors: C300 Sport and C300 Luxury -- both with the 3.0-liter, 228-hp V6 -- and the C350 Sport, powered by holdover 3.5-liter, 268-hp V6 mated to the seven-speed automatic. A six-speed manual is standard in the 300 models, and 4Matic all-wheel-drive is an option in all three cars. I tested the rear-drive C300 Sport with the seven-shifter and -- inspired by the commercials -- abused it about as hard as I could. More about that in a moment. You can call it lines of force, graviton waves or celestial harmonics, but there is something deeply Benz-like about the C-class' interior ambience. It's not simply the deeply muffled interior and wind noise levels, but the timbre of those sounds. The thing sounds like it should have European air woofling through the air ducts. It also looks like a Benz. Styling an entry-premium car is one of the trickiest exercises in the business, because the big expressive gestures of a luxury car don't easily translate to a smaller car. The C-class shares the S-class' stiff-necked formality -- the level hood, the upright grille, the classic roof-line arch. All in all, very like an S-class, Sire. But it doesn't look like it's wearing its dad's suit, the Cadillac CTS. The Sport model gets the big, three-bar grille with the three-pointed star in the center. The Luxury model gets a more traditional grille with the three-pointer as a hood ornament. The new C is capitalized in various dimensions. Compared with the outgoing model, the car is 3.9 inches longer overall (182.3 inches). The wheelbase has gained 1.8 inches (108.7), and front/rear track are up over an inch. The biggest gainer is the trunk, which now measures a competitive 12.4 cubic feet. The C300 isn't drunk with power, but with 221 pound-feet of torque from 2,700 to 5,000 rpm, and a quick-witted adaptive transmission with seven gears in the transom, the car always seems to be on the right foot. Zero-to-60-mph accel is about seven seconds, and the car's high-speed cruising has a light, effortless Zen to it. I took the car out for a flog up through the hill country to Kern County and came away thinking the larger engine option (and diminished fuel economy) couldn't pay for itself in adrenaline. For those who simply must drive the nail all the way through the 2 by 4, MB will soon offer the C63 -- the same car, plus about 300 more horsepower. You'll note, I haven't mentioned BMW, the perennial bogie in this segment, pursued by Audi, Lexus and Infiniti like witches during the Inquisition. The C300 has terrific road manners: lots of raw lateral road holding from the 17-inch Continental tires, firm and composed ride with excellent transitions from corner to corner, a comfortable understeer that, with a lift of the throttle, translates to an easily catchable oversteer. This car has no bad dynamic habits. It might not be as much kinky fun with the road-to-neuron connection of a BMW 3-series, but I would be surprised if the Benz can't hang with the Bimmer around a short road course. Overall, I've got no complaints. In fact, I think this is an excellent automobile and a credit to its breed. The C-class feels precisely like what you would hope, as if Mercedes had invented a shrinking ray and turned it on an S-class. But then, I don't own one. The question has never been, can Mercedes blow up the skirts of an auto reviewer like me. Obviously, they make savagely cool and desirable cars. But can those cars be trusted? That is the C-class' mission. To paraphrase Poe's raven, Mercedes, take thy knife from out my back. -- 2008 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport Base price: $31,910 ?Who says luxury is dead? Fendi, the Italian designer label famous for its lavish furs and Lilliputian baguette handbags, has opened a new boutique at the Beverly Center — the first in the U.S. to feature a designated men's accessories section. The 1,825-square-foot boutique boasts the same undulating ribbed white walls, slate-gray granite floors and steel accents that mingle so harmoniously in the Peter Marino-designed Fendi flagship on Rodeo Drive. But the Beverly Center boutique also features a striking amber-colored glass facade incorporating a backlit pair of puzzle-piece-style double-Fs, the brand's logo. (The amber glass "is an important new architectural concept for our boutiques globally," said Stacy Van Praagh, president of Fendi.) The men's section, which occupies half of the front room in the two-room store, features the label's famously slick formal shoes and casual kicks, wallets, man-bags, jewelry and sunglasses. "The Beverly Center has a strong men's offering and drives a large, diverse male client into the center," Van Praagh said. "We see a nice opportunity for this developing category of business." Prices for men's accessories range from around $275 for a Zucca jacquard belt to more than $1,500 for travel bags. The store also features an atypically large selection of handbags for women, said Van Praagh. And, indeed, the back room of the store feels museum-like with its walls of structured and slouchy bags perched inside softly lighted cubbies. Along with a few versions of the baguette, there are myriad shopping totes in the brand's Zucca-print canvas (featuring the double-F logo), more tailored-looking purses and sumptuous leather hobos. Bag prices range from around $700 for a simple shopper to $4,600 for the grandiose calf-hair Peekaboo tote. The store's prices may not be the friendliest, but on a recent visit, the staff proved to be unshakably sweet — even to an obviously "just browsing" type. Fendi at the Beverly Center, 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, Level 7. (310) 289-1704. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. http://www.fendi.com EVENTS Manolo Blahnik at Thursday: The legendary shoe designer will greet fans and sign newly purchased shoes and copies of his new book, "Manolo's Shoes." Neiman Marcus, 9700 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, Shoe Salon. (310) 550-5900. 1 to 3 p.m. http://www.neimanmarcus.com Decadestwo Celebrity Closet Sale beginning Friday: Designer resale stalwart Decadestwo launches a pop-up shop at actress Lisa Rinna's Sherman Oaks boutique, Belle Gray. It's the first in a planned series of celebrity-centric sales. Prime finds include a khaki ruffled Burberry jacket for $350 and a Jimmy Choo tote featuring an Op-Art graphic, priced at $390. 13812 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 789-4021. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. http://www.decadestwo.com Men's Designer Event Thursday: Snack on hors d'ouevres from Campanile restaurant as you preview the latest men's collections from Moods of , Hugo Boss, Armani Jeans and French Connection, among others — courtesy of Macy's and OUT magazine. Also, meet the charismatic trio of designers for Moods of Norway, who will be bringing their famous Norwegian waffles to the soiree. Macy's Men's Store at the Beverly Center, 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 854-6655. 6:30 p.m. ?Laugh all you want, but it's time to welcome back the fanny pack. Givenchy and Burberry sent luxurious versions of the hip-grazing bag down their spring runways, and then there were the hip, bag-wearing masses at April's Coachella music . Thankfully, today's packs are different from the bulky butt bags of yore -- sleeker, more stylish, in endless colors and materials. Ah, but how much to invest in an accessory that still smacks of the era? A disco gold bag by Yana is no bigger than a cosmetics pouch and glimmers with anaconda skin -- it's $190. Prada's smooth nylon version ($410) looks like a sleek utility belt and lies flat against the thigh. and Target have jumped on the fanny pack bandwagon too. Target's version is particularly sharp at just $9.99: The canvas pack nods to nautical prep with tan accents, white stitching and a contrasting striped belt. It comes in Kelly green, pink and white -- Lilly Pulitzer's classic Palm Beach combo -- and could fit in perfectly on a yacht there. As long as the price tag is kept under wraps, of course. Fanny packs are made for summer. But to avoid looking like a tourist, let your bag hang loose from your hips and position it to one side, letting the pouch graze the outermost corner of your upper thigh. ?WHERE TO STAY Hotel Erwin, 1697 Pacific Ave., Venice; (310) 452-1111 or (800) 786-7789, . 119 rooms in a lodging that was redone in 2009 by the trendy Joie de Vivre chain. One block from the beach and boardwalk. Rooftop bar. No pool. Double rooms rent for about $179 (winter weekdays) to $359 (summer weekends). Hostelling International Santa Monica, 1436 2nd St., Santa Monica; (310) 393-9913, . Here are 260 beds (most in dorm rooms with shared bathrooms and six to 10 beds each), a few blocks from the beach in the middle of Santa Monica. Summer rates of about $36-$49 per person in dorms (about $10 less in winter) and about $159 for private rooms. Casa del Mar, 1910 Ocean Way, Santa Monica; (310) 581-5533, . 129 rooms in a restored building that dates to the 1920s. Opened 1999. Brochure rates for double rooms $565-$850. Parking $34 a night. Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 458-0030, . Two buildings holding 198 rooms in New England beach house style, facing the beach. Copies of "The Old Man and the Sea" in every room. Crowded pool deck. Opened 1993. Brochure rates $575-$995 for doubles. Parking $34 a night. Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (866) 563-9792, . 342 rooms. Most doubles usually $279-$549. Parking $31 a night. JW Marriott Santa Monica Le Merigot, 1740 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 395-9700 or (877) MERIGOT, . 175 rooms. Doubles usually $389-$429, plus $35 a day parking. Georgian Hotel, 1415 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 395-9945 or (800) 538-8147, . This is an Art Deco building (1933) with a bold blue facade. Its 84 rooms (226-248 square feet and small bathrooms) include 28 suites. They're done in earth tones, with old-fashioned bold-hued tile work in the small bathrooms. Convenient to pier and promenade. Doubles usually $229-342, with winter discounts as low as $179; more for suites. Parking $23 a night. Fairmont Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 576-7777 or (866) 540-4470, . 300 rooms, two wings. Better views from the 10-story Ocean Tower. More atmosphere and bigger rooms in the older six-story Palisades wing. Also 32 garden bungalows. The hotel's main restaurant, FIG, opened in 2009, emphasizing fresh ingredients. Dinner main dishes $18-$29. Doubles usually $279-$429; more for bungalows. Parking about $37 a night. Travelodge Santa Monica, 3102 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 450-5766, . 83 basic rooms, free parking and WiFi. Doubles usually $130-$160. Malibu Beach Inn, 22878 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu; (310) 456-6444, . 46 rooms. Breakfast, lunch and dinner offered at the hotel's Carbon Beach Club restaurant (prime sea and pier views, reservations required for non-guests). Doubles $325-$1,025. Spa, drink and snack service for guests on the beach below. WHERE TO EAT Mao's Kitchen, 11512 Pacific Ave., Venice; (310) 581-8305; . "Chinese country cooking" (and enormous portions) in a casual dining room on a lively, gritty block of Venice. Main dishes, $7-$12. BP Oysterette, 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 576-3474; . Seafood and burgers in a lively space on Ocean Avenue. Opened 2009. Lunch and dinner. Dinner main dishes, $14-$22. Ye Olde King's Head, 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 451-1402, . Pints, darts, fish and chips have abounded at this pub, restaurant and shop since 1974. Dinner main dishes, $11.95-$22.95. Cafe Montana, 1534 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 829-3990, . Breakfast, lunch and dinner, with glass walls for watching the passing parade. Eclectic menu includes a Lithuanian dumpling starter and pumpkin ravioli pasta. Dinner main dishes, $15.95-$26. Babalu Bakery & Restaurant, 1002 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 395-2500, . Lunch and dinner, with breakfast on weekends. A little Mexican, a little Chinese, a little Italian. Dinner main dishes, $16.50-$25. Rae's, 2901 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 828-7937. Here's a classic little greasy spoon whose building is textbook Googie design, with a long counter and orange booths. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, cash only. Top price is $12.50 for filet mignon, and for $5.50 you get a breakfast of two eggs, two pancakes and bacon. Upper West, 3321 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 586-1111, . Opened in 2010. Offers Modern American cuisine. Big dining room, Dinner daily, lunch on weekdays. Dinner main dishes, $13-$27, happy hours daily. ?Southern California is home to strip malls, mini-malls, mixed-use malls, outlet malls and rarefied luxury malls. But, unlike any other mall, the Beverly Center is a microcosm of the state of fashion and culture today. The behemoth at the edge of West Hollywood and Beverly Hills has eight levels — five of them for parking. The directory of stores, from to Forever 21, with very little in the middle price range, is indicative of today's high-low approach to shopping and getting dressed. And what's inside the stores — status handbags at and , $165 J. Brand skinny jeans and $65 James Perse T-shirts at — reflects that ethos as well. This is a young person's mall, and in many ways, fashion has turned into a young person's pursuit, with too many designers and labels ignoring a large swath of the population (older than 50 and larger than size 12) in favor of churning out miniskirts for the Kardashian-obsessed set. You'd be hard-pressed to find many suits, trousers or blouses, except perhaps at , , and the small Missy department of Macy's. But there are four sunglasses stores and two free-standing denim stores. The Bebe, Guess, , True Religion and Forever 21 stores represent some of the biggest names in the California apparel business and are responsible for carrying the notion of "California casual" out to the world. When the Beverly Center opened in 1982, it was a regional mall, anchored by the California-owned Bullocks and Broadway department stores. Now, there is no such thing as a regional mall, and the Beverly Center is anchored by Bloomingdale's and Macy's, both owned by Federated, the Cincinnati-based victor in the department store consolidation of the late 1990s and early 2000s. The Macy's store is a mess of too much merchandise without a strong point of view, although it does have the distinction of being one of the few area stores to feature the budget-minded Impulse collections. Bloomingdale's is more organized and edited, with an emphasis on denim (almost half of the top level is devoted to the stuff) and briskly selling contemporary labels (Vince, Marc by , ). Henri Bendel, founded in 1895 and once a mighty department store on New York's Fifth Avenue, has slowly been transformed into a national chain of specialty stores since being purchased by Limited Brands in 1985. And at the Henri Bendel store on Level 7 near Center Court, you can get the full experience of this high-end tchotchke shop, where the Bendel's famous brown-striped shopping bag motif has become a kind of logo, splashed on $148 enamel bracelets and $368 handbags. Most brands in the mall are national or international chains. One exception is Traffic on Level 6. Despite the decline in the number of independent boutiques in today's retail environment, the men's and women's Traffic boutiques, opened by L.A. locals Michael and Sara Dovan in 1984 and featuring edgier designers such as Iro, and , have survived and thrived, even attracting a celebrity clientele. You used to be able to see stars at the mall's Hard Rock Cafe too, the first U.S. outpost of the theme restaurant, back when theme restaurants were just beginning to get big. The shiny Cadillac protruding from the exterior of the building on San Vicente and Beverly Boulevard was a landmark until the restaurant closed in 2006. Now the space is a clubby, buttoned-up Capital Grille chain restaurant. The Beverly Center also boasted a state-of-the-art mega-sized theater complex when it opened in 1982, where 16 films could screen at one time. The theater closed in 2010 to make way for a mega-sized Forever 21, as the phenomenon of cheap-chic-shopping-as-entertainment ($2.99 belts! $14.99 dresses!) took hold. Where you once might have spent an afternoon whiling away the hours in front of a movie screen, now you can while away the time at Forever 21, and, for about the same amount of cash, leave with six shiny new things. The mall's Level 8 is cheap-chic central. H&M has a massive space, and this is one of the lucky stores to receive all of the designer-collaboration collections, most recently for H&M. The young women tearing through the racks of $14.95 faux fur vests and $49.95 party dresses at H&M have expensive Louis Vuitton and handbags on their arms, which they could have purchased from one of the mall's tenants on the newly created luxury row on Level 7 near Macy's. For many years, Louis Vuitton was the only luxury boutique in the mall. In the last two years, as the Beverly Center has tried to shed its mid-market image, Burberry, Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Tiffany & Co., Omega and now and Jimmy Choo have all moved in — despite already having locations fewer than three miles away in Beverly Hills. Their Beverly Center locations sell mostly logo-adorned bags and shoes, which are the lifeblood of the luxury business (luxury for the masses). At Yves Saint Laurent, the women's clothing is relegated to one small rolling rack. In 2005, Apple took over the old Gap space on Level 6. The San Francisco-based brand that Donald Fisher founded on the principle of providing the best basic jeans and T-shirts and that played such a big role in shaping culture and shopping habits in the 1990s was supplanted by Apple, the Silicon Valley-based brand and Steve Wozniak founded on the principle of providing the best, most basic and user-friendly gadgets for the technological age. That single retail corner, where Gap turned into Apple, is a snapshot of how much things have truly changed since the Beverly Center opened its doors in 1982. The Internet has turned the world topsy-turvy, undermined the staying power of fashion trends and sent many shoppers online. And yet, we still can't resist the call of the mall. Location: 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. Bordered by 3rd Street and La Cienega, Beverly and San Vicente boulevards. From the 10 Freeway, take the La Cienega exit north. Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sun. Known for: Being the former site of an amusement park. Older Angelenos like to talk wistfully about taking pony rides there as kids, in the shadow of the oil wells. What you'll find: Macy's and Bloomingdale's are the anchor stores, but the Forever 21 is just as big. A mix of luxury boutiques emphasizing accessories offerings, and mall regulars such as , , Steve Madden, Aldo, Express, Club Monaco and . Vibe: The Beverly Center is frequented by locals, tourists and celebs alike; its biggest asset is that it's centrally located at the edge of Beverly Hills and West Hollywood. Opened in 1982, the mall still has an '80s vibe. Survival strategies: Enter off San Vicente to avoid traffic congestion on La Cienega. Try to park on Level 2, which is less crowded. Don't forget to pay for your parking at one of the parking stations before exiting. Take a break: The food court is under renovation, though California Crisp, Chipotle and other places are open. There's also P.F. Chang's and California Pizza Kitchen, which have to be entered from street level of the mall. But the best spot could be Obika Mozzarella Bar on Level 6 near center court, where you can get a salad with fresh buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy three times a week and a glass of wine. For snacks, check out Pinkberry and Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf. Holiday cheer: The Ice Palace, a 22-foot dome with a magical snow and light show and polar ice cap footage from Earth. Get your photo taken on the Ice Throne or with Santa. Nearby: The Beverly Connection across La Cienega Boulevard has Old Navy, Nordstrom Rack, Marshalls and other stores. The boutiques on Robertson Boulevard are several blocks west of the mall. ?It's the rare 8-year-old who's lucky enough to have a closet stuffed with Dolce & Gabbana, but living large while growing up has its drawbacks: What's a mom to do with all the outgrown button-downs?That's the situation CeCe Hendriks found herself in when she decided to launch , an online consignment boutique for designer children's clothes. Opened this week, predominately with castoffs from her son Jordan's closet, Spoiled! will be updated every Thursday with items from , True Religion, Louis Vuitton and other designers -- most of it priced at less than $200. The clothes are for children from newborn to 14 years old, for boys as well as for girls. The site currently has about 60 pieces, including a never-worn Burberry jacket for a 2-year-old selling for $120 and a pair of Size 4 True Religion denim shorts, tags still on, for $40. [Updated 9-17-12, 9:45 a.m.: The original version of this post said the Burberry jacket cost $150.]"We got the title because my son asked me if he was spoiled. He has over 100 pairs of shoes. I was like, 'You know, kid? Yeah. You are,' " said Hendriks, who'd gotten tired of giving away her son's castoffs to friends and family, many of whom called to find out if Jordan had grown out of a coveted item. In addition to her son's clothes, Spoiled! is also stocked with consignments from celebrities. Hendriks, 41, is a retired actor who played Erica Kane's hairstylist on the long-running TV soap opera "All My Children." Hendriks recently returned to L.A. after a three-year stint in Amsterdam with her family, where she was a socialite, she said."There are people on certain levels who have nowhere to take these clothes. You don't want to give them to Goodwill because you spent so much money," said Hendriks, who gives consignees 50% of the proceeds from sold items and donates 10% of her net profits to Jenesse Center, a national nonprofit domestic violence intervention and prevention organization.Based in L.A., Hendriks picks up consignments and drops off purchases for free if the site's users live in the L.A. area. [Updated 9-17-12, 9:45 a.m.: The original version of this post said shipping outside the area cost $9.95.]It's not about the money for Hendriks. "It's about fashion," she said. "Fashion starts in the home. There's a lot of people who feel they can't afford the Dolce and the Gucci, so this gives people who can't afford that the opportunity to be fashionable."ALSO:?Spring merchandise has officially hit the stores, and one trend should be immediately noticeable: bright colors. They were everywhere on the spring-summer 2011 runways, including at the show, where candy colors managed to look minimal when shown with crisp white shirts or layered with sleek black coats, and at and Burberry, where various tones of shocking aqua and cobalt were paired for a cool (and somehow punchy) look. Color blocking, as seen on the runway, is another major trend. Other designer and contemporary brands explored the color wheel as well. "For spring we bought a lot of color, from acid pinks to orange-red to cobalt blue to tangerine," says Jeannie Lee, owner of 3rd Street's Satine Boutique, which stocks lines from designers including , , and . Retailer Hillary Rush, who owns her eponymous boutique, also on 3rd Street, has already starting seeing the color craze take effect with customers. " The oversized raglan shirt from Monrow has totally sold out in the hibiscus color," a coral-orange Rush says. "When a bright color like that sells out before the black or white, it's always a statement that people are wearing color that season." On the other end of the spectrum, shoppers are likely to encounter lots of white. The natural, yet luxe look of an all-white ensemble (which also works in winter, but is a lot more practical in the warmer months) looked fresh in the runway collections of , and . is also turning out a number of white items, from easy button-downs to wide leg trousers, all in shades of white and off-white and in stores this summer. And there's no shortage of white jeans, which are showing up in the spring and summer lines of J Brand, MIH and 7 for All Mankind. Shoppers may also notice a '60s and '70s aesthetic dictating the shape of denim this season. "Denim flares are really hot," says Caprice C. Willard, vice president-regional planning manager for Macys, where brands such as and Levi's have incorporated the style. Flared and wide-leg jeans are also big sellers on the boutique level; Satine's Lee says wide-leg jeans have been flying off the shelves. On spring-summer 2011 runways such as 's, models wore wide-leg jeans with tucked-in white button-downs and chic wedge sandals. On the street we're bound to see a more relaxed version of the look, with women wearing bell bottom-style jeans with T-shirts and sandals or perhaps flared jeans with a tucked-in tank top and a blazer for evening. The other denim trend for spring is a gamine, '60s crop. The pant leg ends at least 2 inches above the ankle. The jeans look great with ballet flats or a low-mid wedge sandal. The '70s vibe also includes versions of the maxi-length skirt and dress. Floor-grazing styles were featured in the collections of and Jil Sander and are showing up in stores such as the Gap, and Club Monaco. "The maxi-dress is really important this season and we are seeing a resurgence with it," Willard says. "The maxi length actually stays important in Southern California all year long." ?The world premiere of choreographer ’s newest ballet, “Moving Parts,” at Concert Hall on Saturday evening ensured that the weren’t downtown Los Angeles’ only star-studded event of the weekend, with a guest list that included , Mindy Kaling, Rashida Jones, Dita Von Teese, and Millepied’s wife , radiantly attired in a haute couture white bustier flower embroidered gown by Dior and platinum and diamond snowflake earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels.Van Cleef & Arpels baubles were sparking elsewhere in the Saturday night crowd as well; Von Teese complemented her gown (“straight off the runway,” we think she said) with Birds of Paradise earrings and ring in diamonds and white gold and the Arabesque bracelet of yellow and white diamonds, while Jaime King accessorized her gown with a Jackie cuff in 18-kt gold and carnelian and onyx vintage earrings.The robust representation of the brand was hardly surprising though, since the Richemont-owned jewelry brand both presented the performance and hosted the pre-performance dinner. But there's a deeper connection too. “Van Cleef & Arpels has a relationship with dance that goes back to the 1940s,” Van Cleef’s President and CEO Nicolas Bos told dinner guests, “And even played a role [in the creation of George] Balanchine’s ‘Jewels’ in the 1960s, and we’ve been happy to be associated with dance ever since.”(Apparently a mutual friend introduced the choreographer and co-founder of the New York City Ballet to jeweler Claude Arpels; one result of that friendship was “Jewels,” a three-part, non-narrative ballet inspired by, and named after, emeralds, rubies and diamonds, that debuted in 1967.)Millepied himself briefly addressed dinner guests before everyone decamped upstairs for the opening night of the 10th anniversary season of Glorya Kaufman Presents Dance at the Music Center (the world premiere of Millepied’s latest work -- which also happened to mark the world premiere of his new L.A. Dance Project dance company --was preceded by two additional performances, ’s “Quintett” and Merce Cunningham’s “Winterbranch”), and profusely thanked all his collaborators -- a list that included a couple of familiar names we were surprised to hear: Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who had designed the costumes.It marks the second time the design duo has collaborated with Millepied -- the first being ballerina costumes created for the Millepied-choreographed film “Black Swan,” which starred Portman.(Although they’d apparently attended dress rehearsals earlier in the week, the sisters Mulleavy were not in attendance on opening night.) The costumes were simple, black, form-fitting outfits with sleeveless tops, each dancer's outfit accented with a pair of perpendicular lines of color; a horizontal one across the chest and a vertical down the right side of the dancers’ body from shoulder to ankle, with the two lines intersecting near the heart.ALSO:?Investors spent Tuesday preparing for two events sure to move markets this week: a meeting and a court decision on whether Germany can help support its struggling neighbors. And if the stock market's gains Tuesday are any sign, they expect both events to turn out well. The Dow Jones industrial average rose 69.07 points to close at 13,323.36. The average of 30 large company stocks has already gained 1.8 percent to start September, a month which is usually dismal for stocks. Bank of America led the 30 stocks in the Dow, rising 5 percent, or 45 cents, to $9.03. Federal Reserve officials will gather for a two-day meeting on Wednesday. Many expect the Fed will announce a new effort to revive the sluggish economy Thursday afternoon. On the same day the Fed starts its meeting, Germany's high court is expected to rule on whether the country can participate in a European bailout fund. The court rejected a last-minute appeal to delay the decision on Tuesday. “It's going to get interesting this week,” said Randy Frederick, managing director of active trading and derivatives at the brokerage Charles Schwab. Frederick expects the Fed will make some sort of move, especially after the government reported last Friday that employers added fewer than 100,000 jobs in August. “Prior to the employment report people weren't as sure,” Frederick said. “I am definitely on the majority side here. There's some sort of easing coming.” In other trading, the Standard & Poor's 500 index rose 4.48 points to 1,433.56. The Nasdaq composite increased 0.51 of a point to 3,104.53. The assumption that the Fed will announce new stimulus measures is so widespread that some worry the market could take a plunge if the Fed fails to deliver. Ron Florance, managing director of investment strategy at Wells Fargo Private Bank in Scottsdale, Ariz., said he's always wary when stocks rise on nothing more than expectations. “These are the things that make you nervous, when markets are going strong in anticipation of news,” Florance said. On Tuesday, the Commerce Department reported that exports to Europe dropped 11.7 percent in July, stoking concerns that Europe's troubles could smother the U.S. recovery. Overall U.S. exports fell 1 percent to $183.3 billion, lowered by weaker sales of autos, telecom equipment and heavy machinery. Morgan Stanley and Citigroup rose after the two banks settled a dispute over how much to value their jointly owned brokerage firm, Morgan Stanley Smith Barney. The deal cleared the way for Morgan Stanley to buy Citigroup's stake. Citi gained 83 cents to $32.66. Morgan Stanley rose 64 cents to $17.25. A profit warning from luxury clothing chain Burberry helped tug down other high-end retailers in early trading. Burberry said slowing sales to China will likely weaken earnings. Ralph Lauren lost $4.09 to $156.22. Tiffany & Co. sank 78 cents to $62.26. Among other stocks making moves: — Legg Mason jumped 5 percent following reports that its CEO will step down Oct. 1. Clients have been pulling money out of the money manager's funds, weakening revenue. Legg Mason's stock surged $1.38 to $26.85. — Hewlett-Packard gained 52 cents to $17.95, a 3 percent gain. The computer and printer maker said late Monday that it will cut 29,000 jobs by October 2014, or 2,000 more than it had previously planned. Sales of personal computers have slumped as people favor smartphones and lightweight tablet computers. ?Holiday travel is right around the corner, and you probably already dread some of the beauty pitfalls. Try to breeze through airport security with regular-size beauty products and you may find yourself pulled to the side of the line, in your stocking feet, subjected to a close, personal relationship with the worker giving you a full-body scan with a security wand. Travel by ship, train or car, and loose makeup in your purse can cause a gooey, gunky mess. A lipstick top falls off, an eye shadow shatters and you are left not only with a soiled handbag but often with ruined cosmetics too. But organization can turn holiday travel from frenzied to fabulous. A good makeup bag can help, and for everyday use, buy one that's easy to clean. During the holidays, many cosmetic companies include a makeup bag as a seasonal beauty promotion bonus, so whether you go with one of our selections below or receive one with a purchase, this is the time to find a better way to stow your toiletries. Carry on If you're traveling by air, the first question is whether to carry on or check your cosmetics. First, get acquainted with the Transportation Security Administration's 3-1-1 : liquids, aerosols and gels must be in containers no bigger than 3.4 ounces (100 milliliters) enclosed in a 1-quart clear plastic zip-top bag, with one bag allowed per person. (It's OK — and a good idea — to carry extra 1-quart plastic bags in your purse for emergencies). There are many 3-1-1 carry-on kits, but make sure yours comes with bottles that close properly and are made so that the product can be squeezed out readily. The Container Store sells a 3-1-1 Travel Pack ($7.99) that includes a clear 1-quart bag; three wide-mouth, BPA-free 3-ounce bottles, a pump, a mister, one 2-ounce jar, a pill case and labels. They also sell tiny Nalgene leak-proof jars and bottles at about $1.50 each. Bring a sleep/eye mask for beauty sleep. Check in If you decide to check your beauty bounty in your luggage, make sure the tops on all liquid products close tightly to avoid shampoo or foundation spills all over your clothes. Squeeze out any excess air in plastic bottles. And double wrap your toiletry-makeup bag in something waterproof for extra protection. Tiny hotel toiletry amenities, perfume samples and store-bought beauty minis are terrific for short-trip travel. Packable options include the Household Essentials Nylon Hanging Cosmetics-Bag, which folds to fit in a suitcase and is made of easy-clean PVC microfiber with a waterproof vinyl lining ($22.99, ). Baggallini, founded in 1995 by two veteran flight attendants, makes a water-resistant Ripstop Nylon Cosmetic Bag with a detachable bottom pocket for everyday use ($29, Baggallini.com). The hang-able Emilie Sloan Paige Glam Roll ($35, Emiliesloan.com) is a pretty choice made of waterproof fabric in a variety of patterns. It's also a good choice for home use if you're short on space. On the case Good train case options include Sephora Midnight or Metro Train Cases ($92, Sephora.com), Makeup Creation Pro Series Makeup Case ($99.95, Makeupcreations.com) and Bobbie Brown's über-chic Limited Edition Deluxe Travel Kit with a detachable makeup bag ($115, Bobbibrowncosmetics.com). Flight001.com has travel-friendly makeup bags and Pacsafe.com sells the StowSafe Toiletry Bag, which has a secret pocket, tamper-proof zippers and what it says is a TSA-certified padlock to secure expensive face creams and perfume ($39.99). The bright side A colorful makeup bag is easier to spot in the deep dark well otherwise known as the interior of your handbag, especially with today's extra-large purses. Sportsac and Stephanie Johnson bags allow you to mix and match designs and makeup bag sizes. Examples include the Stephanie Johnson Bollywood Pink Medium Flat Pouch ($26, Stephaniejohnson.com) and SJ Creations Sparkling Snakeskin Orange Pencil Case Cosmetic Bag ($11.99 Ulta.com). Marc Jacobs and Rebecca Minkoff have a few nice, bright cosmetic bags as well. Artsy Whether your predilections lean toward watercolors, folk art or works by John Singer Sargent or Modigliani, some cosmetic cases prime the painterly mood. A few choices: Toss Designs Medallion Set of 3 Cosmetic Bags ($30, Tossdesigns.com); ProjectArt Peacocks Rounded Cosmetic Case — it comes with a matching mini-mirror ($48, Endless.com); and Painterly Clutch — Blue Motif by Stephanie Johnson ($32, Anthropologie.com). Classic The tried and true — not trendy — seduces you. You might go for the Haymarket Check Cosmetic Case in chocolate ($198, Us.burberry.com); Lantern Red Cole Haan Cosmetic Case ($68, Colehaan.com); or Kate Spade Foiled Again Large Black Pouch ($75, Katespade.com). MAC's signature Medium Softsac makeup bag is also a terrific, basic everyday option and is fully washable ($28, Maccosmetics.com). Festive When it comes to cleaning, these may not be the most practical makeup bags, but they add holiday sparkle or can double as a festive evening clutch. Try the Tory Burch Mirrored Crinkle Small Cosmetic Case with metallic foil finish ($95, Toryburch.com), or Madrid Greta Medium Cosmetic Bag ($38, Stephaniejohnson.com). Bottega Veneta offers the stylish but pricey leather Nero Intrecciato Nappa Cosmetic Case/Clutch ($900, Bottegaveneta.com). Less expensive metallic options include Sephora Havana and Silver makeup bags ($7 and $18, Sephora.com) and Spiegel.com's Relaxed Glamour Signature Cosmetic Bags starting at $5 with a $10 purchase. ?Part 2 in a series of occasional articles. In the music video for hit single " the pop diva vamps across several nightmarish tableaux wearing a variety of barely there lingerie get-ups. The flashy clip caused a sensation when it debuted in November and has racked up 85 million views on . ¶ But perhaps its most striking aspect is the unabashed product placement -- conspicuous visual shout-outs to Nemiroff vodka, , Burberry and other brands. ¶ Back in the proverbial day -- say, the era, punk rock's '70s heyday, the slacker-era '90s -- a song was a song and a jingle was a jingle and rarely the twain did meet. But now, with CD sales in free fall and opportunities for radio or television airplay increasingly rare, the rules governing the interplay between and advertising are being rewritten. It's no longer possible to "sell out" -- at least, not within a certain time-cherished understanding of the term. Rockers, rappers and up-and-coming pop titans of all stripes are licensing music and image as an integral part of brand-building, which largely has usurped selling music and concert tickets as many musicians' professional end goal. Consider 's smash hit "Forever," which cracked the Top 10 in seven countries in 2008 (before his career-derailing assault on ) and went double platinum. At the start of the song's video, Brown is shown sliding a piece of gum into his mouth before heading out for a night on the town. On "Forever's" chorus, he croons: " 'Cause we only got one night / Double your pleasure, double your fun." Turns out the song was commissioned by Wrigley to promote -- you guessed it -- Doublemint gum. Three months after releasing the single, the chewing gum conglomerate aired its "reveal": a TV commercial version of "Forever" featuring Brown singing about gum and dancing with a pack of Doublemint. The spot generated outcry among music purists, but marketers greeted the spots with awe. "When the reveal happened, some people got upset," recalled Steve Stoute, founder of the firm Translation Consultation & Brand Imaging. "But the number of spins went up and Doublemint went up in awareness." Stoute, who was behind "Forever," also is responsible for 's "I'm Lovin' It" spots for as well as Beyoncé's endorsement deal for 's True Star perfume and the career game plan to treat "like a brand" in her own right. "Using entertainment assets to introduce products is a platform that needed to get exploited," said Stoute, a former executive vice president of Interscope Records. "The lines needed to be blurred. When done correctly, there's consumer acceptance." Stoute said his marketing company gets several calls a week from "major artists" in pursuit of their own "Forever." It's not selling out, he argues, if there's an authentic relationship between the music and the product being hawked. "Marketing isn't successful if the consumer feels he or she is being sold something," Stoute said. Personal favorite products 's most recent CD, "Memoirs of an Imperfect Angel," was accompanied by a 34-page mini-magazine bearing the R&B diva's image and emblazoned with an Elle magazine logo. It's a co-production between Carey's label Island Def Jam Music Group and Elle that features such brands as Angel Champagne, Elizabeth Arden and the Bahamas Board of Tourism intermingled with lighter-than-air Mariah-based editorial featurettes: "VIP access to her sexy love life," "Fantasy: the five-time Grammy winner goes behind the scenes of her new drama." Carey pointed out she is personally or commercially invested in everything advertised. "Angel Champagne, I guess I'm part owner. The Bahamas, we have a house down there," Carey explained, between bites of caviar at the Polo Lounge. "It all has to do with things that are organic to me. And honestly? I'm a big kid. I thought it would be cute." Island Def Jam is exploring similar branded CD booklet deals for artists including , Rihanna and . It all makes rollicking 1967 concept album "The Who Sell Out" -- which featured faux commercials and cover art depicting band members shilling for deodorant and baked beans -- appear prescient. (In further irony, the Who's epochal 1965 single "My Generation" is currently featured in a commercial for Flo TV.) Scott Lipps, owner and founder of the New York modeling agency One Management, recalls a time not long ago when indie rock acts would sooner pack in their skinny jeans than appear in fashion ads. But now, Lipps has augmented the success of his agency (which represents such A-list glamazons as and ) with its offshoot One (M), dedicated to help place rock and pop stars in precisely such commercial environments. Among them: Alison Mosshart of the Kills and Dave Gahan of , who were featured in ads for the fashion line J. Lindeberg, and the New York pop-rock band the Virgins, who were photographed for a Tommy Hilfiger campaign. "People's views on endorsements, doing magazine stuff -- any way to reach fans -- it's all changed. It's not taboo anymore," Lipps said. Lipps, formerly drummer for '80s rock group Black Cherry, remains attentive to the alliance of brand and band. "I'm never going to ask a very cool band to do business with a brand that they would never associate with," said Lipps. "It's about finding that right fit." After the rock quartet OK Go broke into mainstream consciousness with the homemade video for its 2006 single " (featuring the band members performing a synchronized routine on exercise treadmills), they were bombarded with offers to re-create the sequence for TV commercials. The group developed what frontman Damian Kulash calls OK Go's "hell-no criterion": "If it's a product we feel is demeaning or that cannibalizes the meaning or artistry of our song," he explained. Still, the band has remained receptive to overtures from corporate America. Last year, the musicians appeared in print ads and billboards for Banana Republic -- its spring fashion line campaign that also included such artists as , Dashboard Confessional's Chris Carrabba and Sara Bareilles -- attired in natty suits, playing their instruments. "The recording industry has so entirely bottomed out, advertising is one of the only distribution methods that still works," Kulash said after returning from Japan, where he did a photo shoot for the fashion brand Uniqlo. "The music side has a deep ambivalence. It's a pretty major paradigm shift that requires a rethinking of how we see what we do." He added: "I wish we never had to get in bed with that stuff. It doesn't feel particularly good to wear the marketing hat. But our record label isn't paying to put up billboards across the country." It's become fashionable Fashion designer John Varvatos faced a similar reluctance when he approached about appearing in print ads and billboards for his streetwise clothing line in 2005. But after convincing the alt-country singer-songwriter that there would be "nothing fakey about him appearing in the clothes," Varvatos went on to land , members of Velvet Revolver and , Perry Ferrell of and 's for subsequent ads. Varvatos said attitudes toward commodifying stardom have changed. "I was besieged by people wanting to hook up with us," Varvatos said. "There are a lot of people coming after us now. It's almost the opposite problem now. We have to filter out." The designer was quick to dispel the notion, however, that the performers in his ads were selling out their images in return for some hefty payday. "We don't pay the artists much of anything," Varvatos added. "They've got to really want to do this." Katie Vogel certainly has no regrets over her decision to star in Sprite's online series "Green Eyed World," a digital marketing push that aired last year. The series used YouTube clips, social networking interfaces and the promotion of soda to help the London native launch her career; she brandishes a Sprite-green guitar in the clips and at times people around her are seen quenching their thirst with a certain lemon-lime-flavored refreshment. Asked if she was concerned that the association with the brand might limit her career prospects, Vogel, who now goes by the professional moniker Katie V., insisted there were no downsides. "My music, it's being heard," Vogel said. "Even if one person says, 'She's the Sprite singer,' they've heard my music. So I'm happy either way." ?There was a luxe trashiness to many of the collections for fall that's curious when everyone is in survival mode. Between Alexander Wang in New York, Pucci in Milan, Balmain and Givenchy in Paris, I was left with a distinct morning-after feeling. But why, especially now, would you want to wear a mini-dress the size of a postage stamp that makes you look like a street walker? I suppose it would get you noticed. This is the cutting edge of fashion, the thing that's making magazine editors giddy. And there were more measured takes on the tough chic look -- black leather leggings worn with a long boyfriend blazer, the black leather bustier or bomber jacket. I guess if nothing else, sex always sells. Other designers leaned on their heritage (Burberry's checks, Missoni's layered knits, 's manor style and Chanel's -like kits of Madame's iconic accessories), or the heritage of others (Balenciaga's ode to ), offering the kind of tweedy coats, cozy sweaters and pretty evening looks that store buyers were referring to as "investment pieces." There was a lot to wear: Prada's earthen-hued skirt suits, , and Marc Jacobs' sportswear classics with flashes of neon, Lanvin's elegant, bias cuts, the everyday jackets and pants at DKNY, Derek Lam, Etro, Dries Van Noten, Chloe, YSL and Stella McCartney. Now we just have to wait and see if anyone's going to buy. Here, a rundown of the season's top trends: Most likely to already be hanging in your closet: A black leather jacket. If not, they were everywhere, the best with a subtle, studded collar at Yves Saint Laurent. Outta my way: Power dressing manifested itself in strong shoulders, leg o' mutton sleeves and one-sleeved dresses. Sandals aren't just for summer anymore: If it's cold, wear them with tights. If it's slushy, try the season's other big footwear trend, over-the-knee boots. To shop for at the vintage stores: Anything 1980s, especially long boyfriend blazers in geometric prints and sparkly mini-dresses. New "it" color, besides black, that is: Jade green as seen at Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Wear it sparingly or risk looking like a leprechaun. If money is no object: Go for the look at Balmain, the crystal-studded jackets and disco mini-dresses. Or buy the real thing at the Jackson memorabilia auction in Beverly Hills next month. Most dubious trend: Capes, especially Marc Jacobs' neon, crossing-guard versions. Trend that refuses to go away: Leggings. For a newer look, try high-waisted, pleated and peg-legged pants. Trend we thought would never come back: Exposed bras, as seen at Balenciaga and Miu Miu. Most timeless trend: Classical draping, as seen at Balenciaga, Viktor & Rolf, Versace, Bottega Veneta, Derek Lam and . Most ingenious invention: Lanvin's knit-backed fur stoles, which can be pulled down over jackets, sweaters or coats. Most annoying beauty habit: Hair crimping, which was responsible for at least one late runway show start. Recession, what recession? Nadia Swarovski, sixth-generation member of the Swarovski family, which has built an empire by supplying crystals to fashion designers, sprinkled fairy dust on nearly every runway collection. She is the season's biggest winner. ?Location: 6800 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park. From the 101 Freeway, exit at Topanga Canyon Boulevard and go north. Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sun. Known for: Being the San Fernando Valley's luxury destination. What you'll find: A mix of luxury (Salvatore Ferragamo, Tiffany, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Stuart Weitzman, Hugo Boss, Cartier, Omega, Coach), moderately priced (a very pleasant Anthropologie, White House/Black Market, Zara) and cheaper chic stores (Forever 21, H&M, ), along with the only in the San Fernando Valley. Other anchor stores are , Sears, and Nordstrom, which has more luxury fashion labels in store than the smallish Neiman Marcus. Vibe: The mall has an indoor-outdoor feel with skylights, Zen-like water, rock and flower formations, and plenty of places to sit and take a breather. The crowd is a mix of seniors, teens and families. Also of note: The Flip Flop store (nothing but flip-flops), one of two Southern California Walmart.com pop-up stores (with a selection of gift items and computers for ordering things online) and the Auto Gallery for ogling hot cars. (The Village at Westfield Topanga, anchored by Costco, and featuring more shops and restaurants, a hotel and community center, is expected to be completed by 2016.) Survival strategies: Parking here can be a nightmare. Some people swear by Level 2 of the parking structure next to Neiman Marcus. If all else fails, there's $7 valet parking in front of Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and the ground level of the parking deck. Take a break: For something quick, try Melt Gelato and Crepe Cafe, Tommie's Hamburgers or Potato Corner (fries and chips flavored to your specification) on the Dining Terrace. If you want a sit-down restaurant, choices include California Pizza Kitchen, Stone Oven, Japanese restaurants Bistro Ka and Gyu-Kaku and Neiman Marcus Cafe. Nearby, at 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., is the Valley location of the yummy Yang Chow Mandarin Chinese restaurant. Holiday cheer: Santa is in residence every day until Christmas. But he doesn't come cheap. Photo packages start at $21. For kids: The Westfield Play Space, located on the lower level near Target, is a colorful play area with seating for parents. At the same kiddie corner of the mall is a carousel offering rides for a steep $3, a My Gym Express tumbling area and lots of sweet temptations, including Haagen-Daaz and Pinkberry. Nearby: Woodland Hills Ice is an outdoor ice skating rink located at Westfield Promenade, on the corner of Topanga Canyon and Erwin Street. The historic Leonis Adobe museum is a 15-minute drive from the mall at 23537 Calabasas Road. Impressions: Where else can you buy a Louis Vuitton tote and a set of shower curtain rings under the same roof? This is a well-rounded mall experience, with the perks of having a Target and lots for kiddies to do. —Booth Moore?On a recent fall evening, three young women walk down Beverly Boulevard together toward Jerry's Deli. They're dressed in vertiginous high heels, cut-off frayed denim shorts, sheer peasant blouses and, for the tallest in the group, a floppy brown suede hat. Their outfits might lead an observer to conclude they are on their way to a Malibu beach party. But after they pass the deli's brightly lighted windows, they stop in front of the Beverly nightclub, and within seconds they bypass the crowd huddled around the doorman and claim their places inside. FOR THE RECORD: Nightclub dressing: In the Nov. 13 Image section, an article about what chic L.A. wears to nightclubs said the Beverly is in Los Angeles. It is in West Hollywood. — Los Angeles is home to some of the most exclusive speak-easies and lounges in the world, and even Malibu Barbies have a place to call home. Each venue comes with its own personality and unwritten rules on dress. Style is measured in heel inches, attitude and accessories. "I think you'll find a mixture of styles at every venue," says Ari Goldberg, chief executive of , a fashion and beauty website. "But "people end up role-playing. I think people do that naturally." The tastemakers in the corner booths aren't always famous — they are frequently people like stylist Donna Danon. The 24-year-old says she changes her look based on her mood, but she can play up a certain style based on the night's venue. "If I go somewhere like Hemingway's, more of like a lounge-y place, I do more of a hipster look because that's the vibe that place gives off," Danon says. "I'll maybe do shorts, a blazer and a cute little hat. If I'm going somewhere like Eden, I'll do something a little sexier like an LBD," or little black dress. Just in case the subtleties of the L.A. scene seem elusive, what follows is a style guide to some of the city's most fashionable clubs and lounges. The Cool Kids: The Beverly When you arrive at the Beverly, an exclusive club open only two nights a week, a tall man with finely trimmed facial hair wearing a suit and a newsboy cap stands guard at the door. Patrons call him L.T., and as head of security (and selection), he ensures that patrons embody a "cool kids" vibe. There are no guidelines for dress at the Beverly. "It's more about personal style," L.T. says. "It's like a delicate formula we work with. One individual could pull off something that might not work for another." That "delicate formula" involves a heavy dose of confidence oozing from the clientele, who often seem effortlessly attractive and trendy — but casual — in their dress. The aforementioned Malibu Barbies blend in with the Beverly's varied clientele — women in shorts and espadrilles, one-shoulder mini-dresses and sequined skirts and frocks. The men seem to be going for a different look. On a recent evening, a young patron sitting in a private booth that costs hundreds of dollars to reserve for the night orders a bottle of Cristal Champagne — with a price tag of several hundred dollars more. But he isn't dressed in a suit befitting a luxury buy. He wears a Ramones T-shirt, dirty sneakers and a pair of Burberry boxers peaking out of his slightly saggy jeans. "Individual and personal style with a particular flair will always stand out," L.T. says. But just because the Beverly doesn't have a dress code doesn't mean it's not selective. "Anything sparkly, Ed Hardy or Affliction-style graphics, square-toe shoes and sunglasses are definite 'don'ts,'" says Darren Dzienciol, co-owner of the Beverly and Trousdale lounges. "If it's on the 'Jersey Shore' it's not coming through the door." The Beverly, 8713 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; 10 p.m.-2 a.m. Thursday and Saturday; (310) 855-0202. Old Hollywood: The Sayers Club ?Say "so long" to short skirts and hello (again) to the 1970s. Get ready to banish black from your wardrobe and get creative with color. Now that the spring runway shows are over in New York, Milan and Paris, it's up to department store fashion directors and boutique owners to package the big ideas. Chanel's garden party, Balenciaga's punk brigade and Marc Jacobs' 1970s show were all memorable on the runways, but will they make it to store racks? Here, retailers offer their takeaways from the season, and ideas about how the trends might trickle down to you. Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Big idea: The vintage effect, fueled by the major YSL retrospective exhibition that just closed in August in Paris. On the runway, designers nodded to Saint Laurent's rich peasant look, Orientalism and "le smoking" [his signature tuxedo]. Must haves: Fluid, sheer fabrics and longer hemlines (just above the ankle or to the floor) as we saw at Lanvin, and wide-leg trousers and a white pantsuit with Bianca Jagger swagger. The tuxedo jacket, it's not just evening wear anymore. For accessories, it's all about flat sandals because as a woman begins to add longer hemlines to her wardrobe, flat sandals work best with the new proportion. I'm also loving what I'm calling the "Helmut language" [a reference to Helmut Lang's utilitarian designs from the early 1990s], and the idea of adding a sporty attitude to dressed-up clothing using color-blocking, buckles, straps or parachute fabrics. Will punk take to the streets? Not now. We just cycled through a moment when the 1980s were really influential, along with strong shoulders, so punk doesn't look new to me. But where it ends up, we'll have to watch the runways to find out. Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue Big idea: The color story. Bold, bright, vibrant color worked into color-blocked effects and combining colors in unexpected ways. Must haves: A longer-length skirt or dress as seen at and Proenza Schouler in New York, D&G and Fendi in Milan and Chanel in Paris. Open-weave knitwear in natural white, ivory or beige crochet, macramé, mesh or fishnet, as seen at Rag & Bone, Alexander Wang, for Tse, Alberta Ferretti and Celine. And a crisp poplin shirt. We saw it with slouchy wide-leg trousers and skirts for a pared-down look. We also saw it as a play on masculine and feminine at Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Celine. A trench coat looks great with a longer hemline peeking out. I love the sheer organza ones at Phillip Lim and Christian Cota, and the matte python trench at Emilio Pucci. In terms of accessories, fringe is everywhere — on handbags, jewelry and scarves. A shoulder or flap bag is key because it fits into the 1970s trend, as does a pair of platform wedges. Will punk take to the streets? Not in a big way. We've done that trend recently with leathers and studs and grommets, and not enough time has passed to go back. But it may be something we will touch on in our contemporary department. Stephanie Solomon, fashion director, Big idea: Color and print. And this is a serious shift because we've been in love with black for so long. Must haves: A dress or skirt with a hemline hovering around the knees or below. In New York, Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs, and Rebecca Taylor all had great longer lengths. In Milan, we saw it at Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander and Roberto Cavalli. Sometimes these longer skirts have asymmetrical hems or slits, which we saw at Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Stella McCartney. It sounds like a myth that hemlines matter, but they do because when you go longer, you have to change your shoes and you have to change your coat. You need flat, wedge or platform sandals. And the long trench coat is chicest with this length. I'm also liking boyfriend jackets over longer skirts. Will punk take to the streets? In a way. You have to have the rock 'n' roll element, otherwise it would get too boring. I would take a studded leather jacket, something that looks worn and torn and ragged from Burberry Prorsum or Givenchy, and put it over a really frothy feminine dress like we saw at Dior. That dichotomy looks right. Or you can be a punk one day and a virgin the next! ? fans are a scary breed. It emerged today that , the latest lady to be linked to the One Direction singer, when the pair were spotted leaving a club together last week. But now rumours are circulating that Harry is dating model Cara Delevingne. In light of this development, Made In Chelsea’s (a close friend of Caggie Dunlop who was previously thought to be dating the star) opened up to Marie Claire about what dating Harry actually entails. ‘It was horrible for Caggie,’ Millie told us. ‘I’m not going to speak about it, but when people are showing up outside your parent’s house it’s gone too far.’ In July Caggie was spotted out with Harry after the pair exchanged a few flirtatious messages on Twitter but Millie was quick to stress that the attention that comes with a One Direction romance can wear thin.Millie added: ‘Caggie is a fun loving girl, I don’t think she minded the attention too much but it does all get a bit much. There’s a different direction she wanted to go in and I think she got a bit freaked out.’ While Millie focuses on filming the upcoming series of Made In Chealsea as well as launching her new false lash line in partnership with Noveau Lashes, her close chum, Caggie is embarking on a new adventure. ‘Caggie is going to do amazing in whatever she does,’ a supportive Millie said. ‘At the moment she wants to focus on acting and singing, she was so popular in the show, she’s got that star appeal.’But of course she will be missed, as Millie also told us: ‘No one will ever replace Caggie on Made In Chelsea. I’m sure they [MIC producers] would love it if she returned, but it’s not going to happen in this series.’What do you think of Caggie’s departure from Made In Chelsea? Would you like to see her return? Are you sad to see her leave? Let us know in the comments box below.’s lashes are priced at £8.95 and are available from ?Notice to our readers…We'd like to let you know that this site uses cookies. Without them you may find this site does not work properly and many features may be unavailable. More information on what cookies are and the types of cookies we use can be found ?The fashionable favourites who are all set to battle it out at the 2009 British Fashion Awards have just been announced. And the nominees are...The immaculately-manicured claws will be out in the Best Model category, as takes on and Georgia-May Jagger for the coveted prize.Meanwhile, over in the British Collection of the Year camp, there will be a fierce frock-off between , and .The Emerging Talent for Ready-to-wear prize, will see a battle between Peter Pilotto, Meadham Kirchhoff and Mark Fast - while the Emerging Talent for Accessories will either go to Holly Fulton, Camilla Stovgaard, Jessica McCormack or Maria Francesca Pepe.Three major names go head-to-head for the Designer Brand award - with , and Pringle of Scotland all nominated.And flying the flag for the men, are Graeme Fidler for Aquascutum, Kim Jones for Dunhil and Todd Lynn - who are all up for the Menswear Designer of the Year trophy.Rounding off the suitably stylish list are the nominees for the Accessory Designer of the Year - and it really will be handbags at dawn for Katie Hillier, Nicholas Kirkwood and Emma Hill for Mulberry.If you want to know who the deserving winners of Designer of the Year, and the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator will be, then you'll have to wait - as they're being revealed on the night. And, as if all that wasn't fashion-fabulous enough, there will also be a special one-off award to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the British Fashion Council - given to a special someone who they feel embodies the spirit of London. The 2009 British Fashion Awards are set to be held on 9th December at the Royal Courts of Justice in London - so watch this space to find out who all the winners are!?With the Westfield mall having opened in West London, you'd be forgiven for thinking no one's shopping in central London anymore. Well, you'd be wrong, judging from the crowds along Oxford Street and the Kings Road last Thursday, and now there's a fabulous new reason to visit Knightsbridge, too: the beautifully revamped Burberry store. Re-opening today, the iconic boutique showcases the new Burberry store concept, which was unveiled earlier this autumn in Beverly Hills and Berlin, and will be packed full of the delectable autumn/winter Burberry Prorsum collection, as well as the British brand's famous accessories and coats. Race you there. ?You couldn't move for spotting an A-list face during day three of , but rather than a designer name pulling in the hottest stars, it was all about high street favourite . In a rare fashion week outing, London's style queen, hit the front row alongside Arcadia mogul, Philip Green and his daughter Chloe. The supermodel was joined by beau Jamie Hince, and rocked a wide-rim khaki hat, super-short shorts and an embroidered jacket. Down the line, and Girls Aloud's resident stylista, took a seat beside Peaches Geldof, while further along and Olivia Palermo perched. Onto , and it was a girl band fest, with ex Spice , former Destiny's Child Michelle Williams, and again Girl's Aloud's Nicola, who was joined by band mate , all filling the fashion matriarch's star-studded premiere seats. And there's no sign of the star action slowing down, with rumours that the Olsen twins will fly in for Burberry's much-anticipated show on Tuesday night. We can't wait! ? has had a lasting love affair with , with the brand dressing her at last year’s BRIT awards and the MTV Video Music Awards. And now it seems the relationship between the fashion house and singer has taken a new turn, with rumours surfacing that she’s to design a range for them. It’s thought ’s creative director, , personally approached to ask her to take on the role of brand ambassador with a view to create a bespoke collection for plus size women. The partnership would mark the end of a beautiful fashion journey for the pregnant songstress who previously revealed how long she’s been a fan of : ‘I've met a few times. I've always loved . I remember saving for three years to get my first bag before I got signed.’ and are yet to confirm the reports but if they prove true it’s set to be the most exciting thing to happen in the plus-size fashion world in a long time. Make that ever.What do you think of designing for ? Would you be keen to wear one of her designs? Or should she stick to singing? Have your say below. -over-fame.html#index=1"> ADELE ARGUED WITH ROBERT PATTINSON OVER FAME ? is set to add movie star to her ever-growing resumé.

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Along with only one 30 days for losing weight, the first thing you must do is avoid whole grain foods plus sugars totally ?? this means everyday for the entire 30 days. I am aware what if you're thinking and indeed, I discovered this tough at first as well but after a 7 days, I was surprised exactly how easy it had been. Keep in mind, wholegrain foods include nudeln, noodles, brown and white rice, brown plus white bread, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqLvNgTKw0A">raspberry ketone gnc</a>, rolled oats and popcorn. It's no secret that wholegrain foods consist of (complex) carbohydrates or even starch, that is an energy source for that body that may become fats if not utilized. Whole grain meals are often prepared, therefore our body can't break it down as easily as natural food like fruit or veggies. Avoiding fiber rich foods alone will certainly show some noticeable results from the second week and definitely make your one month to lose weight much easier.
 

 
The next phase is learning how to do the most reliable workouts in the shortest period of time. Inside my case, I as soon as thought long cardio exercise sessions and abdominal sit-ups/crunches were the main element ?? those people were many years squandered. It was not until I had developed 30 days to lose weight myself personally that I decided to learn a new basic workout that lastly made a difference. This consisted of a full bodyweight training program that exercised the hands, shoulder muscles, back again, chest, belly, rear, thighs plus leg muscles, all of within a brief and extreme 20-minute program (with no breaks). What this does is usually while your body recovers, it burns fat for about 48 hours after your own session, hence increasing your metabolism and weight reduction. These types of workouts must be done consistently 3-4 times a week to get the greatest outcomes.
 

 
Finally, it is important to drink up to 7 cups of water daily for one month for losing weight. That will also means eliminating some other varieties of beverages which contain sugar or even alcohol for the whole one month. Obviously water can help a person hydrated right after workouts but moreover it can improve your metabolic process, which in turn increases the weight loss process. Water is definitely a diet enhancing pill that takes out toxins and sodium in your body, hence eliminating bloated tummy. Moving water will decrease snacking because it stops you from mistaking thirst as hunger craving. For me not only did I slim down, I had developed more energy and I actually stopped drinking coffee. While water may seem obvious, it is usually the most overlooked factor by most people, such as myself at one time.
 

 
30 days for losing weight might appear tough however it isn't extremely hard. In fact , this easier than many people believe. These 3 things should be done with each other during the 30 days in order to maximize your results. You can not do a couple of without the other -- that's very essential. Consistency plus discipline is the key. If you are dedicated, there is doubt inside my mind you will get the final results you truly want.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E40IDdCOmoU | 2013/11/27 10:17 AM: 鏤?How Cardio, The ideal Cardio Can Help You Shed pounds.
 

 
Do you hate spending time around the cardio machines, just like a little mouse on its exercise wheel? Things like it, bike, rower, stepper or trainers. Maybe you have visited the gym watching as individuals will spend a minimum of an hour on these types of machines watching television or listening to their music. Well We hate this type of cardiovascular, it??s dull and occupies a lot of time. I have better things you can do along with my time compared to spend an hour on an exercise machine while you're watching TELEVISION.
 

 
Did you know what the key is usually? Good cardio exercise this is the key. Your body are created to carry out at bursts followed by recuperation. What does this mean? This really is about varying your workout to visit fast plus hard then recover for a period 1 . five times your exercise then follow that will again and again.
 

 
How to go further into this you have to 1st understand why stamina cardio is bad for the body. If you spend time on the lets say treadmill is to do 60 moments 5-7 times a week you might be actually doing your body harm. Scientists have done studies in order to reveal that endurance cardio increases free of charge radical production in your body, may degenerate joint parts, causes muscle mass wasting, reduces your defense mechanisms function and can result in inflammatory responses in the body that may lead to chronic illnesses. This type of aerobic also only train locomotives the heart in one heart rate range and doesn??t train it to respond to each day causes.
 

 
Where as good aerobic or High Strength Training (HIT) and even interval training workouts as being a people might have heard it called in linked to improving anti-oxidant manufacturing, an increase in <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoXR-QBLns0">raspberry ketone and total body fresh</a> metabolic rate which can assist you to burn unwanted weight as well as encourage a healthy heart. HIT cardio teacher the guts to respond to and recover quickly from your number of demands indicating your prepared to undertake what exactly you need so when you require this. By making a variable factor to your training you train your heart to recuperate between burst of exertion and this allowing your heart and entire body to respond preferable to your daily stressors.
 

 
The good thing regarding HIT kind of cardio training is always that you need to do more in a lot less time, a person reduce extra fat, enhance superior muscular definition. Imagine of weight training exercise that is about brief burst of exertion followed by lengthier recovery periods.
 

 
Therefore next time you should do some cardio and have 30 minutes to spare then do this instead of spending one hour in the treadmill or even bike you are going to do twice the workout in half time after which you are able to move on to higher such things as spending time together with your family.
 

 
The next time you go to the gym or use your home cardio equipment accomplish this:
 

 
Treadmill Warm up for 4 minutes in a easy pace say 6kph then run to get a minute on state 8-10kph, then walk with 6kph for 1 . 5 minutes, after that run for any minute with 10-12kph and back to 6kph for another rest amount of 1 . 5 minutes. Do that about 4-5 times based on your time and energy and cool down around 4-6kph to get 4 mins. This would take you 28 minutes in total.
 

 
I really do this particular on my fitness bike every night in your own home while my spouse also does her stepping. You can do this on the rower or even what ever you want just replace the intensity to match your needs.
 

 
This is exactly what I actually do on the exercise bike in your own home each night. Warm up 2-4 moments, 1 moment on the toughest resistance doing about 35kph, then slow and stable on a simpler resistance at 25kph for 1 . 5 minutes and am do this pattern regarding 8-10 times depending on how I feel after that cool down for 4-5 minutes on really easy at about 25kph to finish away from.
 

 
After i go to the gym I use the particular rower and proceed flat out for 30 seconds ?? 1 moment and then sleep for 45 secs -1. 5 mins I do this with regard to between 15-20 mins which is this. We are normally heated up after regarding 5 minutes associated with skipping as I love missing so I do a great deal of it.
 

 
Therefore there you have it the truth about poor cardio or even hamster training as I call it up and good interval or HIT aerobic, it??s faster, works better, locomotives your heart to cope with life better, requires a fraction of the time, better for you than endurance or long and boring training and you reach leave a fitness center sooner than everybody else.
 

 
THEREFORE next time your own thinking of cardio exercise think about HIT or interval training and give it a try, you might like it and love the additional time you have to do other activities. Occur a person can??t show me you love spending hrs on the aerobic machines watching boring TV, in the end you are able to live your life or even watch another person live theirs.
 

 
Nice reading through.

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葵友会新潟支部　創立60周年記念祝賀会を終えて